JONA, or IONA, the most celebrated of all the Hebrides, called also St Columba-kill, from St Columba *, who came hither from Ireland, and here lies buried. The island stretches two miles in length from south to north in the neighbourhood of Mull, and is about a mile broad from east to west. One end of it is rocky and barren; the other, plain, arable, and fruitful. Columba having converted the northern Picts by his preaching, their king is said to have bestowed upon him this island, where he erected two churches and two monasteries, and instituted a seminary that soon became famous for learning and sanctity. These foundations were richly endowed by the kings of Scotland and lords of the isles: Jona became the cathedral of the bishop of the isles; and, on account of its supposed sanctity, was chosen as a burying-place for kings, heroes, and churchmen. St Mary's church in this island is built in form of a cross, in the Gothic manner; on each side of the choir are two chapels, having, at the entrance, large pillars carved in basso-relievo: the steeple, doors, and windows, are adorned with curious fret-work; the altar is large, magnificent, and composed of fine polished marble. Within the church several abbots are interred, and among these M'Ilkenich, whose statue of black marble appears as big as the life, in an episcopal habit, with the mitre and crozier; the rest are represented in the same manner, and some distinguished by Latin inscriptions. Behind the church are the ruins of a cloister, library, and hall; in which last there used to be public disputations. At the west end of the church, in a little cell, we find the tomb of Columba, but undistinguished by any inscription. Hard by stands the cross of St Martin, an entire porphyry stone, eight feet high above the ground, standing on a pedestal, and exhibiting on the east side the figure of a tree, and on the west a large crucifix. At a little distance from hence we see the ruins of Dun-ni Manich, or Monks Fort, built of stone and lime; which seems to have been a kind of raised bastion, on which the monks enjoyed the cool air, and a prospect of the whole country. A little farther westward lie the black stones, so called, not for their colour, which is grey, but on account of the dreadful vengeance which was said to overtake all those who swore an oath on these stones and were afterwards guilty of perjury. Kneeling on these stones with uplifted hands, Macdonald, lord of the isles, confirmed the grants of lands to his adherents and vassals, solemnly swearing before witnesses, that he would never revoke the rights and privileges he then bestowed.
The other church in Jona is called St Ouran's, from the patron to which it is dedicated. The stately tomb in this church belongs to the laird of M'Kinnon. On the wall above appears a crucifix, engraved with the family-arms underneath. On the tomb-stone lies a statue as big as the life in armour, a ship under sail, a lion at the head, and another at the feet, with this inscription, Hic est abbas Lachlan Much-fingone, et ejus filius, Abbates de I. Etatis in Dno. Mo. UCCG. ann. But the most remarkable spot is the cemetery on the south side, in which the king and chieftains lie buried under shrines. Each particular vault was distinguished
ed by an inscription; but these are now not legible. In that on the right hand, four kings of Ireland were interred; on the left, eight kings of Norway lie buried; and in the middlemost, eight and forty kings of Scotland. Here are likewise the tombs of Macdonald of Ila, Gilbred, and Paul Spottan, ancient tribes of the same name; the Macleans of Duart, Lochbry, and Coll, Macalister, likewise a branch of the Macdonalds, Mac-ourey of Ulvay, and several dignified clergymen; one of which exhibits this inscription, Hic jacet Johannes Turnbull, quondam episcopus Canterburienfis. All these monuments are of laymen, adorned with statues in armour, and armorial ensigns engraven in stone.
About a quarter of a mile farther south, is the church of Ronad, the burying-place of several abbesses; one of whom is thus inscribed: Hic jacet Dna. Anna Terleti, filia quondam prioreſſe de Jona, qua obiit anno Mo. Christi, animam Abrahamo commendamus. If this inscription be true, the prioreſſes in those days did not live a life of celibacy; though indeed a little alteration in the punctuation and orthography will destroy this supposition; for example, Hic jacet Dna. Anna, Tarleti filia, quondam prioreſſe de Jona, &c. In the middle of a long pavement belonging to the adjoining nunnery, stands another stone cross, called Maclean's cross, like that which we have already described. On the shore is a small dock dug to preserve the curich or boat, made of timber covered with hides, in which Columba is said to have transported himself and eighteen ecclesiastics from Ireland. One copy of this apostle's life, written in the Irish character, which by the by is no other than the old Saxon, was in the possession of John Macneil in the isle of Barray; and another in the hands of Macdonald of Benbecula. The monastery of Jona furnished divers bishops to the dioceses of Scotland and England; among others, the famous Aidanus, bishop of Lindisfarn, now Holy Island.