JURA, one of the Hebrides, or Western Islands of Scotland, lying opposite to Knapdale in Argyleshire, is supposed to be about 34 miles long, and 10 broad. It is the most rugged of all the Hebrides; and is com-
posed chiefly of vast mountains, naked, and without a possibility of cultivation. Some of the south and western sides only are improvable, and in good seasons as much bear and oats are raised as will maintain the inhabitants; though by the distillation, as Mr Pennant supposes, of their grain, they sometimes want. Bear produces four or five fold, and oats three fold. Sloes are the only fruits of the island. An acid for punch is here made from the berries of the mountain-ash; and a kind of spirit is also distilled from them. Necessity hath instructed the inhabitants in the use of native dyes. Thus, the juice of the tops of heath boiled, supplies them with a yellow; the roots of the white water-iris, with a dark-brown; those of the yellow water-iris, with a black; and the galium verum, ru of the islanders, with a very fine red, not inferior to madder. On the hills is some pasture for cattle; and the produce, when Mr Pennant visited the island, amounted to about 300 or 400 head of black cattle, sold annually, at 3l. each, to graziers who come for them; about 100 horses, also sold annually; a few sheep with fleeces of a most excellent quality, and great numbers of goats. The other animals of Jura are about 100 flags; though these must formerly have been much more numerous, as the original name of the island was Deir-ay, or the isle of deer, so called by the Norwegians on account of the abundance of deer found in it. Here also Mr Pennant had some obscure account of a worm that, in a less pernicious degree, resembles the furia infernalis of Linnaeus. The fillan, a little worm of Jura, small as a thread, and not an inch in length, insinuates itself under the skin, causes a redness and great pain, flies swiftly from place to place; but is cured by a ponticle of cheese and honey. Of the mountains of Jura, those from their shape called the paps, are the most remarkable. There are only three very large ones; the biggest, called Beinn-an-oir, or the mountain of gold, lies farthest to the north; the second is called Beinn-sheunta, or the hallowed mountain; and the third, Beinn-a-chaois, or the mountain of the sound, is the least of the three. Mr Pennant ascended the first with great labour and difficulty. It is composed of vast stones, covered with mosses near the base; but all above, bare and unconnected with each other. The whole, he says, seems a cairn, the work of the sons of Saturn. The grandeur of the prospect from the top abundantly made amends for the fatigue of ascending the mountain. Jura itself afforded a stupendous scene of rock, varied with innumerable little lakes. From the west side of the hill ran a narrow stripe of rock terminating in the sea, and called the side of the old hag. To the south appeared Ilay extended like a map beneath his feet; and beyond that the north of Ireland; to the east two other islands, Cantyre, Arran, and the frith of Clyde bounded by Ayrshire; an amazing tract of mountains to the north-east as far as Ben-lomond; Skarba finished the northern view; and over the western ocean were scattered Colonsay and Oransay, Mull, Iona, and its neighbouring isles; and still further, the long extents of Tirey and Col, just apparent. The other paps are seen very distinctly, but all of them inferior in height. Mr Banks and his friends mounted that to the south, and found the height to be 2359 feet; but this is far overtopped by Beinn-an-oir. The stones of this mountain are
white, a few red, quartz, and composed of small grains; but some are breciated, or filled with crystalline kernels of an amethystine colour. The other stones of the island are, a cinereous slate, veined with red, and used here as a whet-stone; a micaceous sand-stone; and between the small isles and Ardlin, a micaceous quartz rock-stone. On the west side of the island there is an anchoring-place called Whitfarlan; towards the north end is a bay called Da'l yaul; and on the same coast is formed another riding-place for vessels among several small islands. Between the north end of Jura and the small isle of Skarba, there is a famous whirlpool, called Cory-Vrekan, from Brecan, son to a king of Denmark, who perished in this gulph. His body being cast ashore on the north side of Jura, was buried in a cave, and his grave is still distinguished by a tombstone and altar. In this vortex, which extends about a mile in breadth, the sea begins to boil and ferment with the tide of flood, increasing gradually to a number of whirlpools, which, in the form of pyramids, spout up the water with a great noise, as high as the mast of a small vessel, agitated into such a foam as makes the sea appear white even at the distance of two leagues. About half flood the violence begins to decrease, and continues to do so till about half an hour after high-water: then it boils as before, till within an hour of low-water, when the smallest fishing-boat may cross it without danger.
Jura is furnished with many rivulets and springs of excellent water, and the air is remarkably healthy; its salubrity being increased by the high situation, perpetually fanned by breezes. It is, however, but ill-peopled; and did not contain above 700 or 800 inhabitants at the time it was visited by Mr Pennant. The women are prolific, and very often bear twins. The inhabitants live to a great age, and are liable to few distempers. Men of 90 can work; and there was then living a woman of 80, who could run down a sheep. Then inhabitants are all Protestants, but addicted to some superstitions. The parish is supposed to be the largest in Great Britain, and the duty the most dangerous and troublesome: it consists of Jura, Oransay, Colonsay, Skarba, and several little isles divided by narrow and dangerous sounds; forming a length of not less than 60 miles; supplied by only one minister and an assistant.
The very old clans of Jura are the Mac-ilbays, and the Mac-raines: but it seems to have changed masters more than once. In 1549, Donald of Caityre, Mac-guillayne of Doward, Mac-guillayne of Kinloch-buy, and Mac-duffie of Colonsay, were the proprietors: Mac-lean of Mull had also a share in 1586. At present it belongs to the duke of Argyle, Mr Macneil of Colonsay, and Mr Campbell of Shawfield.