GUERNSEY, an island in the English channel, on the coast of Normandy, subject to Britain; but, (as well as the adjacent islands,) governed by its own laws. See JERSEY.—Of this island, Dr Campbell gives the following account. "It lies 20 leagues south-west from Weymouth in Dorsetshire, between eight and nine leagues west from the coast of Normandy, 13 south of Bretagne, seven north-west from Jersey, five south-west from Alderney, and two west from Sarke. In length from north-east to south-west, about twelve miles; in breadth, from south to north, about nine; in circumference, upwards of 30; containing 50 square miles, or 32,000 acres. The climate is mild and temperate; not subject to excessive heats, much less to severe cold; somewhat windy; but, taking all things together, equally healthy and pleasant. The soil is, generally speaking, rich and fertile; the country, though sufficiently inclosed with stone fences, yet more open than in Jersey, and as capable of cultivation of every kind. On the north side, the coast is commonly low and flat, rising gradually, so that on the south side the cliffs are of a prodigious height. The face of the country is variegated with hills and little eminences, and tolerably well watered with springs and sharp gravelly streams. There was formerly a fine lake, about half a league in extent, now filled up, and turned into a meadow; but many gentlemen have still very beautiful and convenient fish-ponds.
"There are very few countries in the world more capable of improvement. Most of the rising grounds afford a short thick grass, equally beautiful to the eye, and succulent as pasture. Roots and herbs it produces of all kinds, esculent, medicinal, and aromatic; with a profusion of flowers that grow wild, and are exquisitely fragrant. All sorts of shrubs and fruit-trees flourish here: and there is some, though but little timber; not through any defect of soil or climate, but because they cannot conveniently afford it room. Grain they have of every species we cultivate in Britain, but more especially wheat; and though they have not either lime, chalk, or marl, yet the sea-wreck answers all the intention of manure, so well as to keep their ground in constant heart. They have large quantities of sheep, but small in size; and had formerly a very singular breed, of which the ewes had
four horns, and the rams six; but these are now become very scarce. Their black cattle are in such abundance, as not only to support their own uses, but to furnish also a considerable exportation; and their horses, though but little, are equally strong and hardy. The sea also furnishes a prodigious variety as well as plenty of fish, more especially red and grey mullet, excellent mackerel, and, above all, conger-eels. To these advantages we may add, the singular privilege of being free from all venomous creatures.
"There are in this island ten parishes, each of which is divided into several vintons, for the more easy management of affairs, civil, ecclesiastical, and military, and the choice of their respective officers and magistrates. Though the country is very fully peopled, yet the houses are scattered up and down, according to the humour or the conveniency of the inhabitants: so that there is, properly speaking, but one town in the island, which is likewise the only haven of any resort; though there are some creeks on the north and west sides of the island, such as Bazon, L'Aueresse, Ferminer, St Sampson, and the West Passage. All these ports are in a state of nature; but might be certainly improved and fortified, which would be productive of many advantages to the island; as was long ago observed and proposed to government by captain Yarranton. In the reign of king Charles II. when the French formed an insidious design of making themselves masters of this isle by treachery, it left such an impression on his majesty's mind, that some years after he sent over the lord Dartmouth, accompanied by certain engineers, who discovered on the north-west side of the isle, a deep bay, which, by the help of a mole, might cover a numerous squadron, even of ships of the line, under the protection of what was also intended to be built, a strong castle: but his exchequer being exhausted, this necessary work was never carried into execution. As this port would look full into the channel, it deserves consideration, how far it might be useful to us in the time of a French war, and of what infinite detriment it might prove if this island should ever fall into the hands of our enemies.
"The inhabitants are very industrious in their respective employments; naturally sober, frugal in their manner of living, honest in their dealings, sincere in their religion, which is that of the church of England, and loyal to their princes, as well as steady to the British interest. They are, however, reserved to a degree that makes them sometimes thought morose; they are somewhat suspicious; and, which is their greatest error, they are, or at least were, very litigious. They are good husbandmen in their own way, and manage the sea-wreck (which first serves the poor people for fuel, and then its ashes are employed by those in better circumstances for manure) with great skill, and under very prudent regulations. The wreck is cut in summer, and about the vernal equinox, by the proclamation of the magistrates, and when dried, distributed by their order. As for the winter-wreck, which after storms is thrown in large quantities on the coast; this is also equitably divided, and being strewed wet, and so ploughed into the ground, renders it continually fertile. They have a stronger turn, however, to grazing, than to agriculture; and though they bring in annually some corn, yet in the same space they send out a few hundred cattle,
Guernsey. cattle. They are still more inclined to orchards, which enables them to make many thousand hogheads of cyder every year; of which, it being the common drink of the people, they export but little. The woollen is their principal manufacture, for the carrying on of which they are allowed to import 2000 tons from England, which they work up chiefly in stockings, waistcoats, and breeches. They might certainly make their fishery turn to profit, more especially as of late years they have set up salt-works; and yet, except lobsters, I never heard that any of their fish went to a foreign market. Our French and Portugal merchants have large stocks of wine here, which they import as they have occasion. As they are enabled, by this method, to keep it to a proper age before they are obliged to pay the duty, it seems to be a benefit to the mother-country, by putting it in their power both to buy and sell cheaper: as on the other hand, from the rent of warehouses, the subsisting factors and their servants, the resort of ships employed in this trade, it must be very advantageous to the inhabitants of this island. It is a point of justice to observe, that this manner of depositing wines, has nothing at all to do with smuggling; a practice equally injurious to the interests of this country and to the people of Guernsey, as it breeds few seamen, is carried on in very small vessels, and upon the whole is not only an infamous, but a very unprofitable kind of traffic. Heretofore, merchants of this isle traded to most parts of Europe, and had several stout ships of their own; and if this vile practice was abolished, as it might easily be, without any violation of the liberties of the people, they would soon find their account in it, by the revival of many lucrative branches of commerce. As they take from England some of the necessaries, and almost all the conveniences, of life, such as corn, malt-liquor, sugars, spices, coals, household-furniture, many species of the iron and leather manufactures, grocery, haberdashery, and hard-wares, the balance is greatly in our favour; and must continually increase, in proportion as they augment in number, and grow easier in circumstances. At present, upon a very moderate computation, there are in Guernsey upwards of 15,000 souls.
“The several islets and vast chains of rocks that surround this country on every side, and cause such a variety of tides and currents, add much to the security of the place, by rendering it equally difficult and dangerous for ships to approach it, unless they have pilots aboard extremely well acquainted with the coast. On the south side, the cliffs are prodigiously high; so that the old writers say, it looks like a park in the sea, impaled with rocks. On the west side lie the Hanovers, or, as the French write them, Hanovaux, which cover that coast so effectually, that a descent there is little to be feared. At the north-west extremity lies a little island called the Horse; which would be a very convenient place for a salt-work, glass-house, or manufactory of soap. At the north-east extremity we meet with St Michael in the vale, a peninsula some miles in extent, connected with Guernsey by a very narrow isthmus, with bays that might be rendered useful on both sides. This peninsula is likewise guarded by rocks and islets, the most considerable of which are the Bryants, the Hummet, and the Hays. South-east from the vale, lies the island of Harnet, or Arne, about
a league in compass, formerly desert, but now cultivated. At a league south from thence lies Briehoe, of less extent; and between both, the little island of Gythau, or Jethau, which serves the governor for a kind of park, or rather paddock.