ARCHITECTO ROBERTO ADAM.
The east and west fronts of this pile are to extend 255 feet, and the south and north 358. There are to be houses for the principal and six or seven of the professors. The library is to be a room of 160 feet in length; the museum for natural curiosities is to be of the same extent; and the dimensions of the hall for degrees and public exercises are about 90 feet by 30. There are likewise to be an elegant and most convenient anatomical theatre; a chemical laboratory; and large rooms for instruments and experiments for the professors of mathematics, natural philosophy, and agriculture. The whole when finished, if not the most splendid structure of the sort in Europe, will however be the completest and most commodious; and it will do the utmost honour to the genius of the architect and to the munificence of the public. About £16,000 is already subscribed; and there is no doubt that the aid of parliament will be granted to complete the work.
The botanical garden belonging to the university is situated at the distance of about a mile, on the road between Edinburgh and Leith. It consists of about five acres of ground; and is furnished with a great variety of plants, many of them brought from the most distant quarters of the globe. The professor is botanist to the king, and receives a salary of 120l. annually for the support of the garden. A monument, to the memory of the celebrated botanist Linnæus, was erected here by the late Dr Hope, who first planned the garden, and brought it to perfection.
The university of Edinburgh, like the others in this kingdom, sends one member to the General Assembly of the church of Scotland; and the widows of the professors have a right to the funds of those of ministers, the professors being trustees on that fund along with the presbytery of Edinburgh.
11. The Royal Infirmary was first thought of by the college of physicians in 1725. A fishing company happening to be dissolved at that time, the partners contributed some of their stock towards the establishment of the infirmary. A subscription was also set on foot, and application made to the General Assembly to recommend the same throughout their jurisdiction. This was readily complied with, and the assembly passed an act for that purpose; but very little regard was paid to it by the clergy. Notwithstanding this, however, 200l. being procured, a small house was opened for the reception of the sick poor in August 1729. In 1736, the contributors towards the infirmary were erected into a body corporate by royal statute; and after this the contributions increased very considerably: by which means the managers were enabled to enlarge their scheme from time to time; and at last to undertake the present magnificent structure, the foundation of which was laid in 1738. During 25 years, when this institution was in its infancy, Lord Hopetoun bestowed upon it an annuity of 400l. In 1750, Doctor Archibald Ker bequeathed to this incorporation 200l. a-year in the island of Jamaica. In 1755, the lords of the treasury made a donation to it of 800l. which had been appointed for the support of invalids. In return for this, the managers of the infirmary constantly keep 60 beds in readiness for the reception of sick soldiers. This year also sick servants began to be admitted into the infirmary, and a ward was fitted up for their reception.
This institution, however, was more indebted to George Drummond, Esq; than to any other person. He was seven times chosen lord provost of Edinburgh; and always directed his attention to the improvement of the city, particularly to that of the royal infirmary. So sensible were the managers of their obligations to him, that, in their hall, they erected a bust of him with this inscription, "George Drummond, to whom this country is indebted for all the benefit which it derives from the Royal Infirmary."—In 1748, the stock of the infirmary amounted to 500l.; in 1755, to 707l. besides the estate left by Doctor Ker; in 1764, to 23,426l.; and in 1778, to 27,074l.
The royal infirmary is attended by two physicians chosen by the managers, who visit their patients daily in presence of the students. All the members of the college of surgeons are also obliged to attend in rotation, according to seniority. If any surgeon declines attendance, he is not allowed to appoint a deputy; but the patients are committed to the care of one of four assistant surgeons, chosen annually by the managers.—From the year 1762 to 1769, there were admitted 6261 patients; which number added to 109 who were in the hospital at the commencement of the year 1762, made, in all, 6370. Of these, 4395 were cured; 358 died; the rest were either relieved, dismissed incurable, for irregularities, or by their own desire, or remained in the hospital.—From 1770 to 1775, the patients annually admitted into the infirmary were, at an average, 1307; of whom 63 died. In 1776, there were admitted 1668,
Edinburgh of whom 57 died; and in 1777, the number admitted was 1593, and of deaths 52. In the year 1786, there were admitted 1822 patients: Of these 1354 were cured; 166 relieved; 84 died; the rest were either relieved, dismissed incurable, for irregularities, or by their own desire.
The building consists of a body and two wings, each of them three stories high, with an attic story and garrets, and a very elegant front. The body is 210 feet long, and 36 broad in the middle, but at the ends only 24 feet broad. There is a bust of king George II. in a Roman dress, above the great door. The wings are 70 feet long, and 24 broad. In the centre is a large stair-case, so wide that sedan chairs may be carried up. In the different wards, 228 patients may be accommodated, each in a different bed. There are cold and hot baths for the patients, and also for the citizens; and to these last the patients are never admitted.
Besides the apartments necessary for the sick, there are others for the officers and servants belonging to the house. There are likewise rooms for the managers, a consulting room for the physicians and surgeons, a waiting-room for the students, and a theatre that will hold upwards of 200 people for performing chirurgical operations. There is a military ward, supported by the interest of the 8000l. already mentioned; and in consequence of which a small guard is always kept at the infirmary. The wards for sick servants are supported by collections at the church doors. Besides the attendance of the royal college of surgeons by rotation, as has already been mentioned, there are two physicians belonging to the house, who are elected by the managers, and have a small salary; there is likewise a house-surgeon and apothecary. Students who attend the infirmary pay 3l. 3s. annually, which brings in a revenue of about 500l. towards defraying the expence of the house. Two wards are set apart for the patients whose cases are supposed to be most interesting; and the physicians give lectures upon them.
12. The Public Dispensary was founded by Dr Duncan in 1776, for the poor whose diseases are of such a nature as to render their admission into the infirmary either unnecessary or improper. Here the patients receive advice gratis four days in the week; a register is kept of the diseases of each, and of the effects produced by the medicines employed. All patients not improper for dispensary treatment are admitted on the recommendation of the elder or church-warden of the parish where they reside. The physicians officiate and give lectures gratis; so that the apothecary who lodges in the house, and the medicines, are the only expences attending this useful institution. The expence of the whole is defrayed by public contributions, and from a small annual fee paid by the students who attend the lectures. It is under the direction of a president, two vice-presidents, and 20 directors, elected annually from among the contributors. One guinea entitles a contributor to recommend patients and be a governor for two years, and five guineas gives the same privilege for life.
13. The High School. The earliest institution of a grammar-school in Edinburgh seems to have been a-
bout the year 1519. The whole expence bestowed upon the first building of this kind amounted only to about 40l. Sterling. Another building, which had been erected for the accommodation of the scholars in 1578, continued, notwithstanding the great increase of their number, to be used for that purpose till 1777. The foundation of the present new building was laid on the 24th of June that year by Sir William Forbes, Grand Master of the Free Masons. The total length of this building is 120 feet from south to north; the breadth in the middle 36, at each end 38 feet. The great hall where the boys meet for prayers, is 68 feet by 30. At each end of the hall is a room of 32 feet by 20, intended for libraries. The building is two stories high, the one 18, the other 17, feet in height. The expence of the whole when finished is reckoned at 4000l.
There is a rector and four masters, who teach from 4 to 500 scholars annually. The salaries are trifling, and the fees depend upon the reputation they have obtained for teaching; and as this has been for some years very considerable, the rector's place is supposed to be worth not less than 400l. per annum, a master's about half that sum. There is a janitor, whose place is supposed to be worth about 70l. a-year. His business is to take care of the boys on the play-ground; and there is a woman who lives on the spot as under janitor, whose place may be worth about 25l. annually. There is a library, but not large, as each of the boys pays only one shilling annually to its support.
There are four established English schools in Edinburgh; the masters of which receive a small salary, upon express condition that they shall not take above five shillings per quarter from any of their scholars. There are likewise many other private schools in Edinburgh for all languages; and, in general, every kind of education is to be had here in great perfection and at a very cheap rate.
14. The Mint is kept up by the articles of union, with all the offices belonging to it, though no money is ever struck here. It stands in the Cowgate, a little to the west of the English church; but is in a ruinous state, though still inhabited by the different officers, who have free houses; and the bell-man enjoys his salary by regularly ringing the bell. This place, as well as the abbey of Holyrood-house, is an asylum for debtors.
15. The English Chapel stands near the Cowgate port, and was founded on the 3d of April 1771. The foundation-stone was laid by general Oughton, with the following inscription: Edifici sacri. Ecclesie episc. Anglia, primum posuit lapidem J. Adolphus Oughton, in architectonica Scotiae repub. curio maximus, militum professus, regnante Georgio III. tertio Apr. die, A. D. MDCLXXI. It is a plain handsome building, neatly fitted up in the inside, and somewhat resembling the church of St Martin's in the Fields, London. It is 90 feet long, 75 broad, and ornamented with an elegant spire of considerable height. It is also furnished with an excellent bell, formerly belonging to the chapel royal at Holyrood-house, which is permitted to be rung for assembling the congregation; an indulgence not granted to the Presbyterians in England. The expence of the building was defrayed by voluntary subscription;
Edinburgh and, to the honour of the country, people of all persuasions contributed to this pious work. It has already cost 7000l. and will require 1000l. more to finish the portico. This church is built in a singular manner, viz. from south to north, and the altar-piece stands on the east side. Three clergymen officiate here, of whom the first has 150l. the other two 100l. each. The altar-piece is finely decorated, and there is a good organ.
There is another Episcopal chapel, but small, in Black-fryars wynd, which was founded by Baron Smith in the year 1722. There are also some meetings of the Episcopal church of Scotland, who adhere to their old forms, having still their bishops and inferior clergy. For some time these were subjected to penal laws, as they refused to take the oath to government, or mention the present royal family in their public prayers: but of late they have conformed, and had their conduct approved of by his Majesty; so that now every denomination of Christians in Britain pray for the royal family on the throne.
16. Heriot's Hospital owes its foundation to George Heriot, goldsmith to James VI. who acquired by his business a large fortune. At his death, he left the magistrates of Edinburgh 23,625l. 10s. "for the maintenance, relief, and bringing up of so many poor and fatherless boys, freemen sons of the town of Edinburgh," as the above sum should be sufficient for. This hospital is finely situated on the well end of the south ridge, almost opposite to the castle, and is the most magnificent building of the kind in Edinburgh. It was founded in July 1628, according to a plan (as is reported) of Inigo Jones; but the work being interrupted by the civil wars, it was not finished till the year 1650. The expence of the building is said to have been upwards of 30,000l. (A): and the hospital is now possessed of an income of about 3000l. a-year; though this cannot be absolutely ascertained, as the rents are paid in grain, and of course must be fluctuating.
It stands on a rising ground to the south-west of the city, and is a square of 162 feet without, having a court 94 feet square in the inside, with piazzas on three of the sides. There is a spire with a clock over the gateway, and each corner of the building is ornamented with turrets; but notwithstanding the magnificent appearance of the outside, the inner part is far from being convenient. There is a statue of the founder over the gateway, in the dress of the times, and a very good painting of him in the governor's room, with a picture of the late treasurer Mr Carmichael. There is a chapel 61 feet long and 22 broad, which is now repairing in such a manner as will make it worthy of notice. When Cromwell took possession of Edinburgh after the battle of Dunbar, he quartered his sick and wounded soldiers in this hospital. It was
applied to the same purpose till the year 1658, when Edinburgh general Monk, at the request of the governors, removed the soldiers; and on the 11th of April 1659, it was opened for the reception of boys, 30 of whom were admitted into it. The August after, they were increased to 40; and in 1661, to 52. In 1753 the number was raised to 130, and in 1763 to 140; but since that time it has decreased.—In this hospital the boys are instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, and a knowledge of the Latin tongue. With such as choose to follow any kind of trade, an apprenticeship-fee of 30l. is given when they leave the hospital; and those who choose an academical education, have an annuity of 10l. a-year bestowed on them for four years. The whole is under the oversight of the treasurer, who has under him a house-governor, house-keeper, and school-masters.
17. Watson's Hospital has its name from the founder George Watson, who was at first clerk to Sir William Dick provost of Edinburgh in 1676, then accountant of the bank of Scotland; after that he became receiver of the city's impost on ale, treasurer to the Merchant's Maiden Hospital, and to the society for propagating Christian knowledge. Dying a bachelor in 1723, he left 12,000l. for the maintenance and education of the children and grand-children of decayed members of the merchant company of Edinburgh. The scheme, however, was not put in execution till the year 1738, when the sum originally left had accumulated to 20,000l. The present building was then erected, in which about 60 boys are maintained and educated. It is much less magnificent than Heriot's hospital, but the building is far from being despicable. It stands to the southward of the city at a small distance from Heriot's hospital, and was erected at the expence of 5000l.: its present revenue is about 1700l. It is under the management of the master, assistants, and treasurer of the Merchant Company, four old bailies, the old dean of guild, and the two ministers of the old church. The boys are genteelly clothed and liberally educated. Such as choose an university education are allowed 10l. per annum for five years: those who go to trades have 20l. allowed them for their apprenticeship-fee; and at the age of 25 years, if they have behaved properly, and not contracted marriage without content of the governors, they receive a bounty of 50l. The boys are under the immediate inspection of the treasurer, school-master, and house-keeper.
18. The Merchants Maiden Hospital was established by voluntary contribution about the end of the last century, for the maintenance of young girls, daughters of the merchants burghesses of Edinburgh. The governors were erected into a body corporate, by act of parliament, in 1707. The annual revenue amounts to 1350l. Seventy girls are maintained in it; who, upon leaving the house, receive 3l. 6s. 8d. excepting
(A) It is to be observed, that money then bore 10l. per cent. interest.—The above sums are taken from Mr Arnot's History of Edinburgh, who subjoins the following note. "Where Maitland had collected his most erroneous account of George Heriot's effects, we do not know. He makes the sum received, out of Heriot's effects, by the governors of the hospital, to be 43,608l. 11s. 3d. being almost the double of what they really got. This blunder has been the cause of many unjust murmurs against the magistrates of Edinburgh, and even the means of spiriting up law-suits against them."
Edinburgh a few who are allowed 81. 6s. 8d. out of the funds of the hospital. The profits arising from work done in the house are also divided among the girls, according to their industry.
19. The Trades Maiden Hospital was founded in the year 1704 by the incorporations of Edinburgh, for the maintenance of the daughters of decayed members, on a plan similar to that of the merchants hospital. To this, as well as to the former, one Mrs Mary Erskine, a widow gentlewoman, contributed so liberally, that she was by the governors styled joint foundress of the hospital. Fifty girls are maintained in the house, who pay of entry-money 11. 13s. 4d.; and, when they leave it, receive a bounty of 51. 11s. 1½d. The revenues are estimated at 6001. a-year.
20. The Orphan Hospital was planned in 1732 by Andrew Gairdner merchant, and other inhabitants. It was promoted by the society for propagating Christian knowledge, by other societies, by voluntary subscriptions, and a collection at the church-doors. — In 1733, the managers hired a house, took in 30 orphans, maintained them, gave them instructions in reading and writing, and taught them the weaving business. In 1735, they were erected into a body corporate by the town of Edinburgh; and, in 1742, they obtained a charter of erection from his late majesty, appointing most of the great officers of state in Scotland, and the heads of the different societies in Edinburgh, members of this corporation; with powers to them to hold real property to the amount of 10001. a-year. The revenue is inconsiderable; but the institution is supported by the contributions of charitable persons. Into this hospital orphans are received from any part of the kingdom. None are admitted under seven, nor continued in it after 14, years of age. At present (1790) about 140 orphans are maintained in it.
The orphan hospital is situated to the east of the north bridge; and is a handsome building, consisting of a body and two wings, with a neat spire, furnished with a clock and two bells. The late worthy Mr Howard admits, that this institution is one of the most useful charities in Europe, and is a pattern for all institutions of the kind. The funds have been considerably increased, and the building greatly improved, through the attention and exertions of Mr Thomas Tod the present treasurer.
21. The Trinity Hospital. This was originally founded and amply endowed by king James II.'s queen. At the Reformation, it was stripped of its revenues; but the regent afterwards bestowed them on the provost of Edinburgh, who gave them to the citizens for the use of the poor. In 1585, the town-council purchased from Robert Pont, at that time provost of Trinity college, his interest in these subjects; and the transaction was afterwards ratified by James VI. The hospital was then repaired, and appointed for the reception of poor old burghesses, their wives, and unmarried children, not under 50 years of age. In the year 1700, this hospital maintained 54 persons; but, since that time, the number has decreased. — The revenue consists in a real estate of lands and houses, the gross rent of which are 7621. a-year; and 55001. lent out in bonds at 4 per cent.
This hospital is situated at the foot of Leith-wynd, and maintains about 50 of both sexes, who are com-
fortably lodged, each having a room for themselves. Edinburgh. They are supplied with roast or boiled meat every day for dinner, have money allowed them for clothes, and likewise a small sum for pocket-money. There is a small library for their amusement, and they have a chaplain to say prayers. There are some out-pensioners who have 61. a-year, but these are discouraged by the governors. The funds are under the management of the town-council.
22. The Charity Workhouse was erected in 1743 by voluntary contribution. It is a large plain building, on the south side of the city. Here the poor are employed, and are allowed twopence out of every shilling they earn. The expence of this institution is supposed not to be less than 40001. annually; as about 700 persons of both sexes, including children, are maintained here, each of whom cannot be reckoned to cost less than 41. 10s. per annum; and there are besides 300 out-pensioners. The only permanent fund for defraying this expence is a tax of two per cent. on the valued rents of the city, which may bring in about 6001. annually; and there are other funds which yield about 4001. The rest is derived from collections at the church doors and voluntary contributions; but as these always fall short of what is requisite, recourse must frequently be had to extraordinary collections. The sum arising from the rents of the city, however, is constantly increasing; but the members of the College of Justice are exempted from the tax.
There are two other charity workhouses in the suburbs, much on the same plan with that now described; one in the Canongate, and the other in St Cuthbert's or West Kirk parish.
To this account of the charitable establishments in Edinburgh, we shall add that of some others; which, though not calculated to decorate the city by any public building, are perhaps no less deserving of praise than any we have mentioned. The first is that of Captain William Horn; who left 35001. in trust to the magistrates, the annual profits to be divided on Christmas day to poor out-day labourers, who must at that season of the year be destitute of employment; five pounds to be given to those who have large families, and one half to those who have smaller.
Another charity is that of Robert Johnston, L.L.D. of London, who in 1640 left 30001. to the poor of this city; 10001. to be employed in setting them to work, another 10001. to clothe the boys in Heriot's Hospital, and the third 10001. to buriers at the university.
About the beginning of this century John Strachen left his estate of Craigecrook, now upwards of 3001. a-year, in trust to the presbytery of Edinburgh, to be by them disposed of in small annual sums to poor old people not under 65 years of age, and to orphans not above 12.
There is besides a society for the support of the indigent poor, another for the indigent sick, and there are also many charity-schools.
Having thus given an account of the most remarkable edifices belonging to Old Edinburgh, we shall now proceed to those of the New Town. This is terminated on the east side by the Calton-hill, round which there is a pleasant walk, and which affords one of the finest prospects that can be imagined, varying
Edinburgh, varying remarkably almost at every step. On this hill is a burying-ground, which contains a fine monument to the memory of David Hume the historian.—On the top is an Observatory, the scheme for building which was first adopted in the year 1736; but the disturbance occasioned by the Porteous mob prevented any thing from being done towards the execution of it at that time. The Earl of Morton afterwards gave 100 l. for the purpose of building an observatory, and appointed Mr McLaurin professor of mathematics, together with the principal and some professors of the university, trustees for managing the sum. Mr McLaurin added to the money above mentioned the profits arising from a course of lectures which he read on experimental philosophy; which, with some other small sums, amounted in all to 300 l.; but Mr McLaurin dying, the design was dropped.—Afterwards the money was put into the hands of two persons who became bankrupt; but a considerable dividend being obtained out of their effects, the principal and interest, about the year 1776, amounted to 400 l. A plan of the building was made out by Mr Craig architect; and the foundation-stone was laid by Mr Stodart, lord provost of Edinburgh, on the 25th of August 1776. About this time, however, Mr Adam architect happening to come to Edinburgh, conceived the idea of giving the whole the appearance of a fortification, for which its situation on the top of the Calton-hill was very much adapted. Accordingly a line was marked out for inclosing the limits of the observatory with a wall constructed with buttresses and embrasures, and having Gothic towers at the angles. Thus the money designed for the work was totally exhausted, and the observatory still remains unfinished; nor is there any appearance of its being soon completed either by voluntary subscription or any other way.
23. Proceeding to the westward, the first remarkable building is the Theatre, which stands opposite to the Register Office, in the middle of Shakespeare Square. The building is plain on the outside, but elegantly fitted up within, and is generally open three days in the week, and when full will draw about 150 l. a-night; so that the manager generally finds himself well rewarded when he can procure good actors.
Entertainments of the dramatic kind came very early into fashion in this country. They were at first only representations of religious subjects, and peculiarly designed to advance the interests of religion; the clergy being the composers, and Sunday the principal time of exhibition. In the 16th century, the number of playhouses was so great, that it was complained of as a nuisance, not only in Edinburgh, but throughout the kingdom. They soon degenerated from their original institution; and the plays, instead of being calculated to inspire devotion, became filled with all manner of buffoonery and indecency.—After the Reformation, the Presbyterian clergy complained of these indecencies; and being actuated by a spirit of violent zeal, anathematized every kind of theatrical representation whatever. King James VI. compelled them to pass from their censures against the stage; but in the time of Charles I. when fanaticism was carried to the utmost length at which perhaps it was possible for it to arrive, it cannot be supposed that stage plays would be tolera-
ted.—It seems, however, that amusements of this kind were again introduced at Edinburgh about the year 1684, when the Duke of York kept his court there. His residence at Edinburgh drew off one half of the London company, and plays were acted in Edinburgh for some little time. The misfortunes attending the Duke of York, however, and the establishment of the Presbyterian religion (the genius of which is unfavourable to amusements of this kind), soon put a stop to the progress of the stage, and no theatrical exhibition was heard of in Edinburgh till after the year 1715. The first adventurer was Signora Violante, an Italian, remarkable for feats of strength, tumbling, &c. In this way she first exhibited in a house at the foot of Carrubber's Close, which has since been employed by different sectaries for religious purposes. Meeting with good success, she soon invited a company of comedians from London; and these being also well received, Edinburgh continued for some years to be entertained with the performances of a strolling company, who visited it annually. Becoming at last, however, obnoxious to the clergy, they were in 1727 prohibited by the magistrates from acting within their jurisdiction. But this interdict was suspended by the Court of Session, and the players continued to perform as usual.
Still, however, theatrical entertainments were but rare. The town was visited by itinerant companies only once in two or three years. They performed in the Taylor's Hall in the Cowgate; which, when the house was full, would have drawn (at the rate of 2s. 6d. for pit and boxes, and 1s. 6d. for the gallery) 40 l. or 45 l. a-night. About this time an act of parliament was passed, prohibiting the exhibition of plays, except in a house licensed by the king. Of this the presbytery of Edinburgh immediately laid hold; and at their own expence brought an action on the statute against the players. The cause was by the Court of Session decided against the players; who thereupon applied to parliament for a bill to enable his majesty to license a theatre in Edinburgh. Against this bill petitions were presented in 1739 to the house of commons by the magistrates and town-council, the principal and professors of the university, and the dean of guild and his council; in consequence of which, the affair was dropped. All this opposition, however, contributed in reality to the success of the players; for the spirit of party being excited, a way of evading the act was easily found out, and the house was frequented more than usual, inasmuch that Taylor's Hall was found insufficient to contain the number of spectators.
The comedians now fell out among themselves, and a new playhouse was erected in the Canongate in the year 1746. The consequence of this was, that the old one in Taylor's Hall became entirely deserted, and through bad conduct the managers of the new theatre soon found themselves greatly involved. At last, a riot ensuing through dissensions among the performers, the playhouse was totally demolished.—When the extension of the royalty over the spot where the New Town is built was obtained, a clause was likewise added to the bill, enabling his majesty to license a theatre in Edinburgh. This was obtained, and thus the opposition of the clergy for ever silenced. But notwithstanding this,
Edinburgh this, the high price paid by the managers to the patentee, being no less than 500 guineas annually, prevented them effectually from decorating the house as they would otherwise have done, or even from always retaining good actors in their service; by which means the success of the Edinburgh theatre has not been so great as might have been expected.
Not far from this building, an amphitheatre was opened in 1790, on the road to Leith, for equestrian exhibitions, pantomime entertainments, dancing, and tumbling. The circus is 60 feet diameter; and in the forenoon ladies and gentlemen are taught to ride. The house will hold about 1500 people.
24. The Register Office. This work was first suggested by the late Earl of Morton, lord-register of Scotland, with a view to prevent the danger which attended the usual method of keeping the public records. In former times, indeed, these suffered from a variety of accidents. Edward I. carried off or destroyed most of them, in order to prevent any marks of the former independency of the nation from remaining to posterity. Afterwards Cromwell spoiled this nation of its records, most of which were sent to the tower of London. At the time of the Restoration, many of them were sent down again by sea; but one of the vessels was shipwrecked, and the records brought by the other have ever since been left in the greatest confusion.—The Earl of Morton taking this into consideration, obtained from his majesty a grant of 12,000l. out of the forfeited estates, for the purpose of building a register-office, or house for keeping the records, and disposing them in proper order. The foundation was laid on the 27th of June 1774, by Lord Frederic Campbell lord-register, Mr Montgomery of Stanhope lord advocate, and Mr Miller of Barckimming lord justice-clerk; three of the trustees appointed by his majesty for executing the work. The ceremony was performed under a discharge of artillery, in presence of the judges of the courts of session and exchequer, and in the sight of a multitude of spectators. A brass plate was put into the foundation-stone with the following inscription: CONSERVANDIS TABULIS PUBLICIS POSITUM EST, ANNO M.DCC.LXXIV, MUNIFICENTIA OPTIMI ET PIETISSIMI PRINCIPIS GEORGII TERTII. In a glass vase hermetically sealed, which is also placed in the foundation-stone, are deposited specimens of the different coins of his present majesty.
The front of the building directly faces the bridge, extends from east to west 200 feet, and is 40 feet back from the line of Prince's-street. In the middle of the front is a small projection of three windows in breadth. Here is a pediment, having in its centre the arms of Great Britain, and the whole is supported by four Corinthian pilasters. At each end is a tower projecting beyond the rest of the building, having a Venetian window in front, and a cupola on the top. The front is ornamented from end to end with a beautiful Corinthian entablature. In the centre of the building is a dome of wooden work covered with lead. The inside forms a saloon 50 feet diameter and 80 high, lighted at top by a copper window 15 feet in diameter. Round the whole is a hanging gallery of stone, with an iron balustrade, which affords convenience for presses in the walls for keeping the records. The whole number of apartments is 97; all of which are vaulted beneath,
and warmed with fire-places. This building, which is the most beautiful of Mr Adams's designs, has been executed in a substantial manner, in about 16 years, at the expense of near 40,000l. and is one of the principal ornaments of the city. A ferjeant's guard is placed here from the castle, for the further protection of the records. It is intended to place a statue of his present Majesty in the front of the building, with the lion and unicorn above the centinels boxes. The lord-register has the direction of the whole, and the principal clerks of session are his deputies. These have a great number of clerks under them for carrying on the business of the Court of session. The lord-register is a minister of state in this country. He formerly collected the votes of the parliament of Scotland, and still collects those of the peers at the election of 16 to represent them in parliament.
25. On the east side of St Andrew's Square stands the General Excise Office, built by the late Sir Laurence Dundas for his own residence, but sold by his son for the above purpose. It is a very handsome building, with a pediment in front ornamented with the king's arms, and supported by four Corinthian pilasters; and, in conjunction with the two corner houses, has a fine effect.
26. St Andrew's Church stands on the north side of George's Street. It is of an oval form; and has a very neat spire of 186 feet in height, with a chime of eight bells, the first and only one of the kind in Scotland. It has also a handsome portico in front.
27. Opposite to St Andrew's church is the Physicians Hall, designed for the meetings of the faculty, and which has a portico resembling that of the church.
28. Farther to the westward, on the south side, stand the Assembly-rooms, which though a heavy looking building on the outside, are nevertheless extremely elegant and commodious within. The largest is 100 feet long and 40 broad, being exceeded in its dimensions by none in the island, the large one at Bath excepted. Weekly assemblies are held here for dancing and card-playing, under the direction of a master of ceremonies; admission-tickets five shillings each.
It now remains only to speak something of the religious and civil establishments of this metropolis. The highest of the former is the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, who meet here annually in the month of May, in an aisle of the church of St Giles fitted up on purpose for them. The throne is filled by a commissioner from his majesty, but he neither debates nor votes. He calls them together, and dissolves them at the appointed time in the name of the king; but they call and dissolve themselves in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ. This assembly consists of 350 members chosen out of the various presbyteries throughout the kingdom; and the debates are often very interesting and eloquent. This is the supreme ecclesiastical court in Scotland, to which appeals lie from the inferior ones.
The ecclesiastical court next in dignity to the assembly is the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, who meet in the same place in April and November; and next to them is the Presbytery of Edinburgh. These meet on the last Wednesday of every month, and are trustees on the fund for ministers widows. They have
Edinburgh, a hall in Scott's close, where there is a good picture of Dr Webster by Martin, which was put up at the expence of the trustees, out of gratitude for the trouble he took in planning and fully establishing the fund.
The Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, was established a body corporate by Queen Anne in the year 1709, for the purpose of erecting schools to instruct poor children in the principles of Christianity, as well as in reading and writing. The society have a hall in Wariston's close where their business is transacted. From time to time they have received large contributions, which have always been very properly applied; and for much the same purpose his majesty gives 1000l. annually to the general assembly of the church of Scotland, which is employed by a committee of their number for instructing the poor Highlanders in the principles of the Christian religion.
The Earle church at Edinburgh was built about 20 years ago by subscription for the same laudable purpose. Great numbers of people resort to the metropolis from the Highlands, who understand no other language but their own, and consequently have no opportunity of instruction without it; and a most remarkable proof of the benefit they have received from it is, that though the church is capable of holding 1000 people, yet it is not large enough for those who apply for seats. The minister has 100l. per annum arising from the seat-rents, and holds communion with the church of Scotland. The establishment was promoted by William Dickson dyer in Edinburgh.
30 Political constitution. With regard to the political constitution of Edinburgh, the town-council have the direction of all public affairs. The ordinary council consists only of 25 persons; but the council ordinary and extraordinary, of 33. The whole is composed of merchants and tradesmen, whose respective powers and interests are so interwoven, that a balance is preserved between the two bodies. The members of the town-council are partly elected by the members of the 14 incorporations, and they partly choose their own successors. The election is made in the following manner: First a list or let of six persons is made out by each incorporation; from which number, the deacon belonging to that incorporation must be chosen. These lists are then laid before the ordinary council of 25, who "shorten the lets," by expunging one half of the names from each; and from the three remaining ones the deacon is to be chosen. When this election is over, the new deacons are presented to the ordinary council, who choose six of them to be members of their body, and the six deacons of last year then walk off. The council of 25 next proceed to the election of three merchant and two trades counsellors. The members of council, who now amount to 33 in number, then make out lets, from which the lord provost, dean of guild, treasurer, and bailies must be chosen. The candidates for each of these offices are three in number; and the election is made by the 30 members of council already mentioned, joined to the eight extraordinary council-deacons.
The lord provost of Edinburgh, who is styled right honourable, is high sheriff, coroner, and admiral, within the city and liberties, and the town, harbour, and road of Leith. He has also a jurisdiction in matters of life
and death. He is preses of the convention of royal Edinburgh-boroughs, colonel of the trained bands, commander of the city-guard and of Edinburgh jail. In the city he has the precedence of all the great officers of state and of the nobility; walking on the right hand of the king or of his majesty's commissioner; and has the privilege of having a sword and mace carried before him. Under him are four magistrates called bailies, whose office is much the same with that of aldermen in London. There is also a dean of guild, who has the charge of the public buildings, and without whose warrant no house nor building can be erected within the city. He has a council to consult with, a nominal treasurer, who formerly had the keeping of the town's money, which is now given to the chamberlain. These seven are elected annually; who with the seven of the former year, three merchants and two trades counsellors, and 14 deacons or preses of incorporated trades, making in all 33, form the council of the city, and have the sole management and disposal of the city revenues; by which means they have the disposal of places to the amount of 20,000l. annually. Formerly the provost was also an officer in the Scots parliament. The magistrates are sheriffs-depute and justices of the peace; and the town council are also patrons of all the churches in Edinburgh, patrons of the university, and electors of the city's representative in parliament. They have besides a very ample jurisdiction both civil and criminal. They are superiors of the Canongate, Portsburgh, and Leith; and appoint over these certain of their own number, who are called baron bailies: but the person who presides over Leith has the title of admiral, because he hath there a jurisdiction over maritime affairs. The baron bailies appoint one or two of the inhabitants of their respective districts to be their substitutes, and these are called resident bailies. They hold courts in absence of the baron-bailies, for petty offences, and deciding civil causes of little moment.
No city in the world affords greater security to the inhabitants in their persons and properties than Edinburgh. Robberies are here very rare, and a street-murder hardly known in the memory of man; so that a person may walk the streets at any hour of the night in perfect security. This is in a great measure owing to the town-guard. This institution originated from the con-32 Town-Town sternation into which the citizens were thrown after the battle at Flawden. At that time, the town-council commanded the inhabitants to assemble in defence of the city, and every fourth man to be on duty each night. This introduced a kind of personal duty for the defence of the town, called watching and warding; by which the trading part of the inhabitants were obliged in person to watch alternately, in order to prevent or suppress occasional disturbances. This, however, becoming in time extremely inconvenient, the town-council, in 1638, appointed a body of 60 men to be raised; the captain of which was to have a monthly pay of 11l. 2s. 3d. two lieutenants of 2l. each, two sergeants of 1l. 5s. and the private men of 1s. each. No regular fund was established for defraying this expence; the consequence of which was, that the old method of watching and warding was resumed: but the people on whom this service devolved were now become so relaxed in their discipline, that the magistrates were threatened with having the king's troops
Edinburgh troops quartered in the city if they did not appoint a sufficient guard. On this 40 men were raised in 1679, and in 1682 the number was increased to 108. After the revolution, the town-council complained of the guard as a grievance, and requested parliament that it might be removed. Their request was immediately granted, and the old method of watching and warding was renewed. This, however, was now so intolerable, that the very next year they applied to parliament for leave to raise 126 men for the defence of the city, and to tax the citizens for their payment. This being granted, the corps was raised which still continues under the name of the town-guard. At present the establishment consists of three officers and about 90 men, who mount guard by turns. The officers have a lieutenant's pay; the sergeants, corporals, drummers, and common soldiers, the same with those of the army. Their arms are the same with those of the king's forces; but when called upon to quell mobs, they use Lochaber-axes, a part of the ancient Scottish armour now in use only among themselves.
32 Militia or trained bands. The militia or trained band of the city consist of 16 companies of 100 men each. They were in use to turn out every king's birth-day; but only the officers now remain, who are chosen annually. They consist of 16 captains and as many lieutenants; the provost, as has already been mentioned, being the colonel.
The town-guard are paid chiefly by a tax on the trading people; these being the only persons formerly subject to watching and warding. This tax, however, amounts only to 1250l. and as the expence of the guard amounts to 1400l. the magistrates are obliged to defray the additional charge by other means.
33 Number of inhabitants. The number of inhabitants in the city of Edinburgh is somewhat uncertain, and has been very variously calculated. By a survey made in the year 1775, it appears that the number of families in the city, Cannongate, and other suburbs, and the town of Leith, amounted to 13,806. The difficulty therefore is to fix the number of persons in a family. Dr Price fixes this number at 4; Mr Maitland, at 5; and Mr Arnot, at 6; so that, according to this last gentleman, the whole number of inhabitants is 82,836; to which he thinks 1400 more may be added for those in the garrison, hospitals, &c. There are in Edinburgh 14 incorporations, capable of choosing their own deacons, viz. The royal college of surgeons; the corporations of goldsmiths, skinners, furriers, hammermen, wrights and masons, taylor's, bakers, butchers, shoemakers, weavers, waukers, bonnet-makers, and merchant-company. The revenue of the city, arising partly from duties of different kinds, and partly from landed property, is estimated at about 10,000l. per annum.
34 Plenty of provisions. The markets of Edinburgh are plentifully supplied with all sorts of provisions. Fresh butcher-meat, as well as fowl and fish, if the weather permit, may be had every day; and no city can be better supplied with garden stuffs. The Edinburgh strawberries particularly are remarkably large and fine. A remarkable instance of the plenty of provisions with which Edinburgh is supplied was observed in the year 1779, when several large fleets, all of them in want of necessaries, arrived in the Forth, to the amount of
about 500 sail, and having on board at least 20,000 men; yet the increased consumption of provisions, which certainly ensued upon the arrival of so many strangers, made not the least increase in the rate of the markets, inasmuch that several victualling ships sent down by the navy-board returned without opening their hatches. The city-mills are let to the corporation of bakers in Edinburgh; and the bread made in the city is remarkable for its goodness.
Edinburgh is supplied with water brought for some miles in pipes, and lodged in two reservoirs, from whence it is distributed through the city both to public wells and private families. A revenue accrues to the town from the latter, which must undoubtedly increase in proportion as the city extends in magnitude.
There are but few merchants in Edinburgh, most of them residing at the port of Leith; so that the support of the city depends on the consumption of the necessaries as well as the superfluities of life. There are five different sorts of people on whom the shop-keepers, publicans, and different trades depend: 1. The people of the law, who are a very respectable body in the city. 2. The number of young people of both sexes who come to town for their education, many of the parents of whom come along with them. 3. The country gentlemen, gentlemen of the army and navy, and people who have made their fortunes abroad, &c. all of whom come to attend the public diversions, or to spend their time in such a manner as is most agreeable to them. 4. The vast concourse of travellers from all parts. 5. Most of the money drawn for the rents of country gentlemen is circulated among the bankers or other agents.
At Edinburgh there are excellent manufactures of linen and cambrics; there are also manufactures of paper in the neighbourhood, and printing is carried on very extensively. But for some time the capital branch about Edinburgh has been building: which has gone on, and still continues to do so, with such rapidity, that the city has been increased exceedingly in its extent; and it is not uncommon to see a house built in a few months, and even inhabited before the roof is quite finished.