NANKEEN, or NAN-KING, is a well-known cotton stuff, which derives its name from the ancient capital of China (See NAN-KING, Encycl.). It is, however, according to Van Braam, manufactured at a great distance from that city, in the district of Fong-kiang-fou, situated in the south-east of the province of Kiang-nam upon the sea-shore. The colour of nankeen is natural, the down of which it is made being of the same yellow tinge with the cloth. The colour, as well as superior quality of this cotton, seems to be derived from the soil; for it is said that the seeds of the nankeen cotton degenerate in both particulars when transplanted to another province, however little different in its climate. The common opinion, that the colour of the stuff is given by a dye, occasioned an order from Europe, some years ago, to dye the pieces of nankeen of a deeper colour than they had at that period; and the reason of their being then paler than formerly is as follows:
Shortly after the Americans began to trade with China, the demand increased to nearly double the quantity it was possible to furnish. To supply this deficiency, the manufacturers mixed common white cotton with the brown; this gave it a pale cast, which was immediately remarked; and for this lighter kind no purchaser could be found, till the other was exhausted. As the consumption is grown less during the last three years, the mixture of cotton is no longer necessary, and nankeen is become what it was before. By keeping them two or three years, it even appears that they have the property of growing darker. This kind of stuff must be acknowledged to be the strongest yet known. Many persons have found that clothes made of it will last three
or four years, although for ever in the wash. This is that makes them the favourite wear for breeches and waistcoats both in Europe and America. The white nankeen is of the same quality, and is made of white cotton as good as the brown, and which also grows in Kiang-nam.