ANGLESEY, ISLE OF, is the most western county of North Wales. It is 24 miles in length, 18 in breadth, and sends one member to parliament. It is separated from Caernarvonshire by a strait called
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Anglesey. Menai, and on every other side is surrounded by the sea. It is a fertile spot, and abounds in corn, cattle, flesh, fish, and fowls.
At Port Aethwy, the most general ferry into the island, there is a great passage of cattle. It is computed that the island sends forth annually from 12,000 to 15,000 head, and multitudes of sheep and hogs. It is also computed that the remaining stock of cattle is 30,000. In 1770 upwards of 90,000 bushels of corn were exported, exclusive of wheat. The improvement in husbandry has greatly increased since the suppression of smuggling from the Isle of Man: before that time every farmer was mounted on some high promontory, expecting the vessel with illicit trade; but since that period, he sets in earnest to industry and cultivation. Not but that the island was in the most remote times famous for its fertility: Mon, Mam Gymry, the Nursing mother of Wales, was a title it assumed even in the 12th century.
This island is divided into 74 parishes, of which most of the churches are situated near the shores. By an account given on the 13th of August 1563, there were 2010 households, or families, in Anglesey; allowing five to a family, the whole number of inhabitants at that period was 10,050. In 1776, the number of houses in Anglesey was about 3956: allowing five persons to a family, the whole number of inhabitants was at that time 19,780; which wants only 340 of doubling the number of inhabitants in the intervening space. The chief town is BEAUMARIS.
In ancient times this island was called Mon, Mona, or Moneg. It was the great nursery of the religion of the Druids, being the residence of the grand druid, or chief pontiff, and consequently of all the learned doctors in that religion.
Many ancient monuments of druidism still remain in the island.—At Tre'r Dryw, or the habitation of the arch druid, are several mutilated remains, which have been described by Mr Rowlands. His Bryn Gwyn, or Breyn Gwyn, or royal tribunal, is a circular hollow of 180 feet in diameter, surrounded by an immense agger of earth and stones, evidently brought from some other place, there not being any mark of their being taken from the spot. It has only a single entrance. This is supposed to have been the grand consistory of the druidical administration.—Not far from it was one of the Gorsfedau, now in a manner dispersed, but which once consisted of a great copped heap of stones, on which sat aloft a druid, instructing the surrounding people multa de Deorum immortalium vi et potestate disputare, et juvenuti tradunt: Cæf. lib. vi.—Here were also the relics of a circle of stones, with the cromlech in the midst; but all extremely imperfect. Two of the stones are very large; one, which serves at present as part of the end of a house, is 12 feet 7 inches high, and 8 feet broad; and another 11 feet high, and 23 feet in girth. Some lesser stones yet remain. This circle, when complete, was one of the temples of the druids, in which their religious rites were performed. It is the conjecture of Mr Rowlands, that the whole of these remains were surrounded with a circle of oaks, and formed a deep and sacred grove: Jam per se roborum elegunt lucos, neque ulla sacra sine ea fronde conficiunt; (Plin. Hist. Nat. xv. 44.)—Near this is Cae'r Leb, or the moated intrenchment; of a
square form, with a double rampart, and broad ditch intervening, and a lesser on the outside. Within are foundations of circular and of square buildings. This Mr Rowlands supposes to have been the residence of the arch druid, and to have given the name, Tre'r Dryw, to the township in which it stands. At Trev Wry are several faint traces of circles of stones, and other vestiges of buildings; but all so dilapidated, or hid in weeds, as to become almost formless. Bod-druddan, or the habitation of the druids, Tre'r-Beirdd, or that of the bard, and Bodwyr, or that of the priests, are all of them hamlets, nearly surrounding the seat of the chief druid, composing the essential part of his suite. At the last is a thick cromlech, resting on three stones.
The shore near Porthamel, not far from hence, is famed for being the place where Suetonius landed, and put an end in this island to the druid reign. His infantry passed over in flat-bottomed boats, perhaps at the spot still called Pant yr Yscraphie, or the valley of Skiffi. His cavalry crossed partly by fording, partly by swimming. Of the conflict on this occasion we have the following animated description by Tacitus: * Stat pro littore diversa acies, densa armis virisque, intercurantibus foeminis in modum furiarum, veste ferali, crinibus dejectis, faces perferebant; druidique circulum, preces diras sublatis ad cælum manibus fundentes. Novitate aspectus percutere militem, ut quasi hærentibus membris, immobile corpus vulneribus præberent. Dein cohortationibus ducis, et se ipse stimulantes, ne muliebri et fanaticum agmen pavescerent, inferunt signa, sternuntque obvios et igni suo involvunt. Præsidium posthac impositum vicis, excisive luci, sævi superstitionibus facri. Nam cruore captivo adolere aras, et hominum sibris consulere deos fas habebant."—Thus Englished: "On the shore stood a motley army in close array, and well armed; with women running wildly about in black attire, with dishevelled hair, and like the furies brandishing their torches; surrounded by the druids, lifting up their hands to heaven, and pouring forth the most dreadful imprecations. The soldier stood astonished with the novelty of the fight. His limbs grew torpid, and his body remained motionless, resigned to every wound. At length, animated by their leader, and rousing one another not to be intimidated with a womanly and fanatic band, they displayed their ensigns, overthrew all who opposed them, and flung them into their own fires. After the battle, they placed garrisons in the towns, and cut down the groves consecrated to the most horrible superstitions: for the Britons held it right to sacrifice on their altars with the blood of their captives, and to consult the gods by the inspection of human entrails." There are no traces of any Roman works left in this country. Their stay was so short, that they had not time to form any thing permanent.
Near the ferry of Moel y Don appear the fine woods of Sir Nicholas Bayley, skirting the Menai for a considerable way. The wooded part of the island is on this side. It commences at Llanidan, and recalls the ancient British name of Anglesey, Ynys Dywyll, or the Dark Island, on account of the deep shade of its groves: but at present it is (except in this part) entirely divested of trees; and the climate so averse to their growth, that in most parts it is with great difficulty
Anglesey. the gentry can raise a plantation round their houses. Plas Newydd, the seat of Sir Nicholas Bayley, lies close upon the water, protected on three sides by venerable oaks and ashes. The view up and down this magnificent river-like strait is extremely fine. The shores are rocky; those on the opposite side covered with woods; and beyond soar a long range of Snowdonian Alps. Here stood a house built by Gwenllian, a descendant of Cadrod Hardd. The mansion has been improved, and altered to a castellated form by the present owner.
In the woods are some very remarkable druidical antiquities. Behind the house are to be seen two vast cromlechs. The upper stone of one is 12 feet 7 inches long, 12 broad, and four thick, supported by five tall stones. The other is but barely separated from the first; is almost a square of five feet and a half, and supported by four stones. The number of supporters to cromlechs is merely accidental, and depends on the size or form of the incumbent stone. These are the most magnificent we have, and the highest from the ground; for a middle sized horse may easily pass under the largest. In the lands of Llugwy, indeed, there is a most stupendous one of a rhomboidal form. The greatest diagonal is 17½ feet, the lesser 15, and the thickness three feet nine inches; but its height from the ground is only two feet: it was supported by several stones. The Welsh, who ascribe every thing stupendous to our famous British king, call it Arthur's Quoit. In the woods at this place are some druidical circles nearly contiguous to each other.
At a small distance from Beaumaris, on the shore, stand the remains of Llanvaes, or the Friars. It was founded by Prince Llewelyn ap Jerwerth, and, according to the general tradition of the country, over the grave of his wife Joan, daughter of King John, who died in 1237, and was interred on the spot. Here also were interred a son of a Danish king, Lord Clifford, and many barons and knights who fell in the Welsh wars. It was dedicated to St Francis, and consecrated by Howel bishop of Bangor, a prelate who died in 1240. The religious were Franciscans, or minor friars. Their church and house were destroyed, and their lands wasted, in the insurrection made soon after the death of Llewelyn, last Welsh prince, by his relation Madoc. Edward II. in consideration of their misfortunes, remitted to them the payment of the taxes due to him, which before the war were levied at the rate of 12l. 10s. These friars were strong favourers of Owen Glendwr. Henry IV. in his first march against Owen, plundered the convent, put several of the friars to the sword, and carried away the rest; but afterwards set them at liberty, made restitution to the place, but peopled it with English recluses. It possibly was again reduced to ruin; for Henry V. by patent, establishes here eight friars, but directs that only two should be Welsh. At the dissolution, Henry VIII. sold the convent and its possessions to one of his courtiers. They became in latter days the property of a family of the name of White (now extinct), who built here a good mansion. It of late became, by purchase, the property of Lord Bulkeley. The church is turned into a barn, and the coffin of the princess Joan now serves for a watering trough. A little farther is Castell Aber Llilienawg, a small square fort, with the remains of a little round
tower at each corner. In the middle stood a square tower. A fosse surrounds the whole. A hollow way is carried quite to the shore, and at its extremity is a large mound of earth designed to cover the landing. This castle was founded by Hugh Lupus earl of Chester, and Hugh the Red earl of Shrewsbury, in 1098, when they made an invasion, and committed more savage barbarities on the poor natives, especially on one Kenred a priest, than ever stained the annals of any country. Providence sent Magnus king of Norway to revenge the cruelties. His coming was to all appearance casual. He offered to land, but was opposed by the earls. Magnus stood in the prow of his ship, and calling to him a most expert bowman, they at once directed their arrows at the earl of Shrewsbury, who stood all armed on the shore. An arrow pierced his brain through one of his eyes, the only defenceless part. The victor, seeing him spring up in the agonies of death, insultingly cried out in his own language, Leite loupe, "Let him dance." This fort was garrisoned so lately as the time of Charles I. when it was kept for the parliament by Sir Thomas Cheadle; but was taken by Colonel Robinson in 1645.
Above Llandonna is a high hill, called Bwrd Arthur, or Arthur's round table: the true name was probably Din or Dinas Sulwy: for a church immediately beneath bears that of Llanvihangle Din-Sulwy. On the top of it is a great British post, surrounded by a double row of rude stones with their sharp points uppermost; and in some parts the ramparts are formed of small stones. In the area are vestiges of oval buildings; the largest is formed with two rows of flat stones set on end. These had been the temporary habitations of the possessors. It had been a place of vast strength: for, besides the artificial defence, the hill slopes steeply on all sides, and the brink next to the ramparts is mostly precipitous. It is worth while to ascend this hill for the sake of the vast prospect, and intermixture of sea, rock, and alps, most savagely great.
About two miles south of Plas Gwyn, the seat of Paul Panton, Esq. was situated Penmynydd, once the residence of the ancestors of Owen Tudor, second husband to Catherine of France, queen dowager of Henry V.; "who beyng (as honest Halle informs us) young and lustye, folowyng more her own appetite than fendelyn consaill, and regardyng more her private affection than her open honour, toke to husband prively (in 1428) a goodly gentylman, and a beautifull person, garniged with manye godly gyftes both of nature and of grace, called Owen Teuther, a man brought forth and come of the noble lignage and auncient lyne of Cadwalader, the last kynge of the Brittonnes." The match, important in its consequences, restored the British race of princes to this kingdom: These reigned long, under the title of the House of Tudor; the mixed race having ceased on the accession of Henry VII. grandson to our illustrious countryman. The remains of the residence of the Tudors are, the door of the gateway: part of the house, and the great chimney-piece of the hall, are to be seen in the present farm-house. Some coats of arms, and dates of the building or time of repairs, are to be seen, with the initial letters of the names of the owners. The Tudors, for a considerable space before the extinction of their race, assumed the name of Owen. Richard was
Anglesey. was the last male of the family, and was sheriff of the county in 1657. Margaret, heiress of the house, married Coningby Williams, Esq. of Glan y gors, in this island, who possessed it during his life. It was afterwards sold to Lord Bulkeley, in whose descendant it still continues. In the church of Penmynydd is a most magnificent monument of white alabaster, removed at the dissolution from the abbey of Llanvaes to this place; probably erected in memory of one of the House of Tudor, who had been interred there. On it is the figure of a man in complete armour, a conic helm, and mail guard down to his breast; his lady is in a thick angular hood; their feet rest on lions, and their heads are supported by angels.
On the western point of the bay is a small cape, flat at top, called Castell Mawr, joined to the land by a low isthmus. It is composed of limestone, which is carried to distant parts in small vessels, which lie in a small channel near the rock, and by their numbers frequently enliven the view. Roman coins have been found in this neighbourhood; but there are no vestiges of there having been any station. Beyond Castellmawr, on the shore, are vast blocks of black marble filled with shells, coraloids, and fungite.
At Tryfelwyn mountain is the most considerable body of copper ore perhaps ever known. The part of Tryfelwyn which contains it is called Parys mountain. Of this mountain, and the works there carried on, we have the following very curious and particular account by Mr Pennant:—"The external aspect of the hill is extremely rude, and rises into enormous rocks of coarse white quartz. The ore is lodged in a basin, or hollow, and has on one side a small lake, on whose waters, distasteful as those of Avernus, no bird is known to alight. The whole prospect of this tract has, by the mineral operations, assumed a most savage appearance. Suffocating fumes of the burning heaps of copper arise in all parts, and extend their baneful influence for miles round. In the adjacent parts vegetation is nearly destroyed: even the mosses and lichens of the rocks have perished; and nothing seems capable of resisting the fumes but the purple melic grass, which flourishes in abundance. It is thought that the ore had been worked in a very distant period. Vestiges of the ancient operations appear in several parts, carried on by trenching, and by beating the rocks intensely, then suddenly pouring on water, so as to cause them to crack or scale; thus awkwardly supplying the use of gunpowder. Pieces of charcoal were also found, which proves that wood was made use of for that purpose. As the Britons imported all works in brass, it is certain that the Romans were the undertakers of these mines; and it is very probable that they sent the ore to Caerhen to be smelted, the place where the famous cake of copper was discovered. They might likewise have had a smelting hearth in this island; for a round cake of copper was discovered at Llanvaethle, a few miles from this place. Its weight was fifty pounds, and it had on it a mark resembling an L.
"In the year 1762, one Alexander Frazer came into Anglesey in search of mines. He visited Parys mountain; called on Sir Nicholas Bayley, and gave him so flattering an account of the prospect, as induced him to make a trial, and sink shafts. Ore was discovered; but before any quantity could be gotten,
the mines were overpowered with water. In about two years after, Messrs Roe and Co. of Macclesfield applied to Sir Nicholas for a lease of Penrhyn ddu mine in Caernarvonshire; with which they were, much against their wills, compelled to take a lease of part of this mountain, and to carry on a level, and make a fair trial. The trial was accordingly made; ore was discovered; but the expences overbalanced the profits. They continued working to great loss; and at length determined to give the affair up. They gave their agent orders for that purpose: but he, as a final attempt, divided his men into ten several companies, of three or four in a partnership, and let them sink shafts in various places, about eight hundred yards eastward of a place called the Golden Venture, on a presumption that a spring, which issued from near the place, must come from a body of mineral. His conjecture was right; for in less than two days they met with, at the depth of seven feet from the surface, the solid mineral, which proved to be that vast body which has since been worked to such advantage. The day that this discovery was made was March 2. 1768: which has ever since been observed as a festival by the miners. Soon after this discovery, another adventure was begun by the reverend Mr Edward Hughes, owner of part of the mountain, in right of his wife Mary Lewis of Llys Dulas; so that the whole of the treasure is the property of Sir Nicholas Bayley and himself. The body of copper ore is of unknown extent. The thickness has been ascertained in some places by the driving of a level under it, several years ago, and it was found to be in some places twenty-four yards. The ore is mostly of the kind called by Cronsted, Pyrites cupri flavo viridescens, and contains vast quantities of sulphur. It varies in degrees of goodness; some of it is rich, but the greater part poor in quality.
"There are other species of copper ore found here. Of late a vein of the Pyrites cupri griseus of Cronsted, about seven yards wide, has been discovered near the west end of the mountain: some is of an iron gray, some quite black; the first contains sixteen lb. of copper per 100 lb.; the last forty. An ore has been lately found, in form of loose earth, of a dark purplish colour; and the best of it has produced better than eight in twenty. Some years ago, about thirty pounds of native copper were found in driving a level through a turbery; some was in form of moss, some in very thin leaves.
"It is quarried out of the bed in vast masses; is broken into small pieces; and the most pure part is sold raw, at the rate of about 31. to 61. per ton, or sent to the smelting-houses of the respective companies to be melted into metal. Mr Hughes has great furnaces of his own at Ravenhead near Liverpool, and at Swansea in South Wales. An idea of the wealth of these mines may be formed, by considering that the Macclesfield Company have had at once fourteen thousand tons of ore upon bank, and Mr Hughes thirty thousand.
"The more impure ore is also broken to the size of about hens eggs; but in order to clear it from the quantity of sulphur with which it abounds, as well as other adventitious matter, it must undergo the operation of burning. For that purpose it is placed between two parallel walls of vast length: some kilns are 20, others
Anglesey. 40, and 50 yards in length; some 10, others 20, feet wide, and above four feet in height. The space between is not only filled, but the ore is piled many feet higher, in a convex form, from end to end. The whole is then covered with flat stones, closely luted with clay; and above is placed a general integument of clay, and small rubbish of the work, in order to prevent any of the fumes from evaporating. Of late, some kilns have been constructed with brick arches over the ore, which is found to be the best method of burning. Within these few years, attempts are made to preserve the sulphur from flying away; and that is done by flues made of brick, whose tops are in form of a Gothic arch, many scores of feet in length. One end of these opens into the beds of copper which are to be burnt. Those beds are set on fire by a very small quantity of coal, for all the rest is effected by its own phlogiston. The volatile part is confined to, and directed to the flues; in its course the sulphureous particles strike against their roofs, and fall to the bottom in form of the finest brimstone; which is collected and carried to adjacent houses, where it is melted into what is called in the shops stone brimstone.
"The beds of copper, thus piled for burning, are of vast extent. Some contain 400 tons of ore, others 2000. The first require four months to be completely burnt, the last near ten. Thus burnt, it is carried to proper places to be pressed, or washed, and made merchantable. By this process the ore is reduced to a fourth part in quantity, but considerably improved in quality; and by this means the water is strongly or richly impregnated with copper, which is dissolved by the acid quality of the sulphur; and is collected or precipitated again by iron in the above-described pits. The iron is also dissolved.
"But a far richer produce of copper is discovered from the water lodged in the bottom of the bed of ore, which is highly saturated with the precious metal. This is drawn up, either by means of whimseys or windmills, to the surface, and then distributed into numbers of rectangular pits 36 feet long, some pits more some less, 12 to 15 feet broad, and 20 inches deep. To speak in the language of the adept, Venus must make an affination with Mars, or this solution will have no effect. In plain English, a quantity of iron must be immersed in the water. The kind of iron is of no moment; old pots, hoops, anchors, or any refuse, will suffice; but of late, for the convenience of management, the adventurers procure new plates, four feet long, one and a half broad, and three quarters of an inch thick. These they immerse into the pits. The particles of copper instantly are precipitated by the iron, and the iron is gradually dissolved into a yellow ochre. Great part of it floats off by the water, and sinks to the bottom. The plates, or the old iron (as it happens), are frequently taken out, and the copper scraped off; and this is repeated till the whole of the iron is consumed. The copper thus procured differs little from native copper, and is prized accordingly, and sold for prices from 25l. to 45l. a ton.
"This discovery is far from new: it has been practiced long in the Wicklow mines in Ireland; and above a century in those of Hern-grundt in Hungary, where it is called ziment copper. The waters of the Hungarian mines are much more strongly impregnated with
copper than those of Parry mountain. The first effects its operation in about 12 or 20 days, the last requires two months. Horse shoes, iron made in shape of hearts and other forms, are put into the foreign waters; and when perfectly transmuted, are given as presents to curious strangers.
"The ore is not got in the common manner of mining, but is cut out of the bed in the same manner as stone is out of a quarry. A hollow is now formed in the solid ore open to the day, and extends about 100 yards in length, about 40 yards in breadth, and 24 yards in depth. The ends are at present undermined, but supported by vast pillars and magnificent arches, all metallic; and these caverns meander far under ground. These will soon disappear, and thousands of tons of ore be gotten from both the columns and roofs. The sides of this vast hollow are mostly perpendicular, and access to the bottom is only to be had by small steps cut in the ore; and the curious visitor must trust to them and a rope, till he reaches some ladders, which will conduct him the rest of the descent. On the edges of the chasms are wooden platforms, which project far; on them are windlasses, by which the workmen are lowered to transact their business on the face of the precipice. There suspended, they work in mid air, pick a small place for a footing, cut out the ore in vast masses, and tumble it to the bottom with great noise. In such situations they form caverns, and there appear safely lodged till the rope is lowered to convey them up again. Much of the ore is blasted with gunpowder, eight tons of which are said to be annually used for the purpose.
"Nature hath been profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on this spot: for above the copper ore, and not more than three quarters of a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yellowish greasy clay, from one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from 600 to 1000 pounds weight of lead from one ton; and one ton of the metal yields not less than 47 ounces of silver. Mixed with the earth, are frequently certain parts of the colour of cinnabar. Whether these are symptomatic of the sulphureous arsenical silver ores or of quicksilver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes with the successful smelting of this earth in the grate; inasmuch that it has not yet been of that profit to the adventurers which might reasonably be expected from the crucible assays of it; and they have at this time about 8000 tons on bank undisposed of. This place has been worked for lead ore in very distant times. In the bottom of the pool was found an ancient smelting hearth of grit stone, and several bits of smelted lead, of about four inches in length, two in breadth, and half an inch thick.
"These works have greatly added to the population of the island: for about 1500 persons are employed; who, with their families, are supposed to make near 8000 persons, getting their bread from these mines. The little village of Amlwch, the port of the place, is increasing fast, and the market grows considerable. At the season of the greatest work, Mr. Hughes's men alone receive for many weeks 200l. in one week, and 150l. in another, merely for subsistence. The port is no more than a great chasm between two rocks, running far into land, and dry at low water; into
into which floops run, and lie secure to receive their lading."
Near Kemlyn bay is a quarry of marble, common to this place, some parts of Italy, and to Corsica, and known in the shops by the name of Verde di Corsica. Its colours are green, black, white, and dull purple, irregularly disposed. In different blocks one or other of the colours is frequently wanting; but among the green parts are oftener found narrow veins of a most elegant and silky white asbestos. It is a compound species of marble: part is calcareous, and may be acted on by nitric acid. The green parts partake of the nature of jasper. It is apt to be intersected by small cracks, or by asbestos veins, therefore incapable of taking a high polish. This quarry lies on the lands of Monachy, in the parish of Llan-Fair-Ynghornwy; and it is found again in the isle of Skerries, off this parish. Neither the quarry nor the asbestos are at present in use. In Rhoscolyn parish, a green amianthus, or brittle asbestos, is met with in great plenty in a green marble similar to the above; but by reason of the inflexible quality of its fibres not applicable to the same use.