NEWCASTLE on Tyne

NEWCASTLE on Tyne, the capital of the county of Northumberland in England, 15 miles north of Durham, 94 north of York, 63 south by east of Berwick, 60 east of Carlisle, and 271 from London, stands at the end of the Picts wall, on the north side of the Tyne, over

over which it has a flatly bridge into the bishopric of Durham, in which its suburb called Gate-side is situated; for the liberties of Newcastle extend no farther than the great iron gate upon the bridge which has the arms of the bishop of Durham carved on the east side and those of Newcastle on the west side. W. Long. 1. 27. N. Lat. 55. 3. It is admitted to have been a Roman station, though no evidence at present appears, except at Pandon-gate, whole superstructure is of different workmanship and model from any others of the town, the arches being circular. The Carpenter's tower is also of Roman original. In the Saxons time it was called Moncafter, from the monks here, who all fled when it was depopulated by the Danes; and afterwards Newcastle, from a castle built here by William the Conqueror's son, Robert, in 1080, to defend the country against the Scots, whose kings had this town before the Norman conquest, and sometimes resided here. Several monasteries and houses were built here soon after the castle; and it was greatly enlarged and enriched by a good trade to the coasts of Germany, and by the sale of its coal to other parts of England; for which, and for other merchandise, it is become the great emporium of the north of England, it being the nearest and largest town in those parts, next to York. In the reign of Edward I. it was burnt by the Scots; but a very rich burgher who was taken prisoner, soon ransomed himself for a good sum of money, and began the first fortifications of the place, which he extended from Sand-gate to Pampedon, and thence to the Austin friars gate; which the townsmen finished, and encompassed with stout walls, which extended two miles, wherein are seven gates and many turrets, with several casements bomb-proof. To which two other gates were added in more modern times, viz. Bridge-gate and Sand-gate: the wall between them was afterwards removed to open the quay. Edward III. granted the corporation the duties and customs of the town for seven years, to enable them to complete the fortification. It is a borough at least as ancient as King Richard II. who granted that a sword should be carried before the mayor; and King Henry VI. made it a town and county incorporate of itself, independent of Northumberland. Henry VII. built a monastery here for the Franciscans. Besides which, it had several religious foundations, several of which structures have been converted to companies halls and private residences. In the reign of Henry VIII. this place is said to have exceeded in the strength and magnificence of its works all the cities of England, and most places in Europe. The town is governed by a mayor, 12 aldermen, a recorder, sheriff, town clerk, a clerk of the chambers, two coroners, eight chamberlains, a sword-bearer, a water bailiff, and seven sergeants at mace. Its situation, especially the most busy part of it towards the river, is very uneven, it being built on the declivity of a steep hill, and the houses very close. The castle overlooks the whole town. That part built by Robert was of great strength, and square, and surrounded by two walls; the square was 62 feet by 54, and the walls 13 feet thick, within which was a chapel. The outward fortifications are now defaced, and their site crowded with buildings. The tower remains entire, and situated on a lofty eminence, and its principal entrance is to the south. This castle belongs to

the county, and makes no part of the liberties.—It is now the county prison, and in the great hall the judges hold the assizes. Here Baliol king of Scotland did homage to King Edward I. in 1292: as did Edward Baliol in 1334 to King Edward III. Here is a magnificent exchange and a customhouse; and a very fine quay. There is a handsome mansion house for the mayor, who is allowed 1000l. a-year, for his table, besides a coach and barge. The old bridge was carried away in a flood, and the present was erected about 1775, of nine noble elliptic arches. With the old bridge 22 houses were thrown down, and six lives lost. It was originally built of wood; but having been destroyed by fire in 1248, was rebuilt of stone, and consisted of 12 arches, three of which on the north side were closed up, and served for cellars: this was again rebuilt about 1450, and was crowded with wooden buildings; but near the middle was a tower with an iron gate, used as a town prison. A strong building crossed the bridge, which was used as a magazine. On the south front was a statue of King Charles II. The water which destroyed this bridge, on November 11. 1771, was upwards of 12 feet above high water mark in spring tides.—On removing the foundations of the piers of the old bridge to erect the present, by observations made, and medals found, part of it is supposed to have existed from the time of the Romans. It is computed that above 6000 keelmen are employed here, who have formed themselves into a friendly society; and, by their own contributions, built a noble hospital containing 50 chambers, for such of their fraternity as are poor, disabled, or pass their labour; and it is supported by the contribution of those that are in health. The town is extremely populous; and, notwithstanding the multitude of those employed in and about the coal pits, with which the town is in a manner surrounded, has abundance of poor; but it has also many wealthy inhabitants, and it is said they pay above 4000l. a-year to their relief. It is observed, that this town has the greatest public revenue in its own right as a corporation, of any town in England, it being computed at no less than 8000l. a-year. In 1774, the receipts of the corporation were 20,360l. 9s. 8d.; and their disbursements about 19,445l. The number of inhabitants is about 36,891, exclusive of a number of seamen who cannot be accurately estimated. Here are four churches or chapels. That of St Nicholas is the mother church, a curious fabric, built cathedral-wise by David king of Scots, 240 feet long, 75 broad, and proportionably high, with a tower steeple 194 feet in height, of Gothic architecture; also St Andrew's, St John's, and All Saints, lately rebuilt on the site of the old structure, of a circular form. Here are also several meeting houses, and four charity schools for 300 children; a fine hall for the surgeons, and a large prison called Newgate; also an hospital for lunatics, another for the lying in of married women, as well as a fund raised for the relief of those who are delivered at their own houses. Here is a well endowed and large infirmary, and an assembly room that attracts attention, containing every useful apartment, and a hall room 93 feet by 40: The front is ornamented with six Ionic pillars, &c. In another part of the town is a new theatre. Here is a very neat set of baths. A free grammar school was granted by James I. from an old foundation

Newcastle of St Mary's hospital, in the vestry room of whose chapel is the election of the officers of the corporation. There were formerly several palaces in this city, viz. Pampdon hall, Lumley place, Earl's Place, Northumberland house, Westmoreland place, &c. The free masons have lately erected an elegant hall, richly ornamented, to hold their lodge in, near High friar chair, capable of holding above 4000 of that ancient fraternity. Here is an hospital for 39 decayed freemen and their widows; and another for three clergymen's widows and three merchants widows. The Maidens hospital, built in 1753, is endowed with 2400l. for six maiden women and six poor men. Dr Thomlin, a prebendary of St Paul's, and rector of Whicham in the bishopric of Durham, gave a library of above 6000 valuable books to the corporation, and settled a rent charge of 5l. a-year for ever for buying new ones; and Sir Walter Blacket, formerly one of its representatives in parliament, built a neat repository for them, and settled 25l. a-year for ever on a librarian. The upper or north part of the town, inhabited by the politer sort of people, is much pleasanter than that part next the river, and has three level, well built, and spacious streets. The river all the way up from Shields to Newcastle is broad, the channel safe, and the tide flows with a strong current to the town, and far beyond it. In the beginning of the civil wars, this town was taken and plundered by the Scotch fanatics, who here fold their king, Charles I. for 200,000l. in hand, and security for as much more. The glass works are very curious, and have more business of the fine sort than most other places: the duty on this article drawn by government is said to amount to 200,000l. annually. Besides, it has a considerable manufacture of broad and narrow cloths, and several soap boilers; and this place is famous for grindstones, for which there is such a demand, that scarce a ship stirs without them; from whence came the proverb, "That a Scotsman and a Newcastle grindstone travel all the world over." Ships fit for the coal trade are built here to perfection, with great strength. Here is a considerable manufacture of hardware and wrought iron, after the manner of that at Sheffield.—Its markets are on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Its fairs in August, which last nine days, and October 29th, which last nine days. By an act of Queen Mary, the price of the carriage of goods hither from London by waggons was settled at 2d. per lib. London alone is said to consume at least 766,887 chaldrons of its coal every year; but as for the fish vended in that city by the name of Newcastle salmon, it is more properly called Berwick salmon, the fresh salmon being taken near 50 miles farther, as far as the Tweed, and brought on the backs of horses to Shields, where it is cured, pickled, and sent on board for London. It is worth remembering, that at the assizes here in 1743, two old men were subpoena'd hither as witnesses from a neighbouring village, viz. one 135 years of age, and his son 95, both hearty, and having their sight and hearing; and that in 1744, one Adam Turnbull died in this town aged 112, who had had four wives, the last of whom he had married when he was near 100 years old.

The annual amount of the revenue of customs at this port, which Mr Brand in his History of New-

castle states at 41,000l. is now very considerably upwards of 70,000l.

The coals carried out of it annually (on an average from 1785 to 1791) were nearly 448,000 Newcastle chaldrons; the weight of which is 1,187,200 tons. The following are the exports of coals from the Tyne for the years annexed.

The number of persons employed in the coal trade of the rivers Tyne and Wear in 1792 exceeded 64,000.

The manufacture of earthen ware is greatly increased, and carried on to great perfection in its neighbourhood, in seven potteries; and their produce exported hence to foreign parts, as well as to the different ports of this kingdom; some of which potteries constantly employ upwards of 100 persons, men, women, and children.

New works of considerable extent for the manufacture of iron have been established; as also a very capital manufactory for white lead, milled lead, &c. Independent of red and white lead, the quantity of lead exported from the river Tyne during four years was as follows.

The trade with the West India islands is increasing, and may in time become very considerable; as the port has great advantages, in being able to supply on the cheapest terms many articles wanted in those islands; such as coals, grindstones, lime, bricks, tiles, iron wares, &c.; and is most advantageously situated for the re-exportation of the West India produce to the ports on the Baltic, to Germany, the United Provinces, Flanders, and part of France; and moreover, the risk of navigation, and the rate of insurance, not being greater than between those islands and Liverpool, and some other ports on the western coast of this kingdom.

The population of Newcastle in 1801 exceeded 28,000, and it is daily increasing in inhabitants and opulence. It has long been noted for hospitality and good living. Great improvements have been made in the town, by opening new streets, and paving the principal ones, in the same manner as in London. To the list of public edifices of modern erection, and mentioned above, viz. the grand assembly rooms, and the elegant theatre, which were built by subscription, and the superb parish church of All Saints, built at a very great expence by the parishioners, may be added a commodious riding house, built also by subscription.