CANDIA, is the capital of the above island, situated on its northern coast, in E. Long. 25. o. N. Lat. 35. 30. It stands on the same situation which was formerly occupied by Heraclea, and is the seat of government under the Turks. Its walls which are more than a league in compass, are in good repair, and defended by deep ditches, but not protected by any exterior fort. Towards the sea, it has no attacks to fear; because the shallowness of the harbour renders it inaccessible to ships of war.
The Porte generally commits the government of this island to a pacha of three tails. The principal officers, and several bodies of the Ottoman soldiery, are stationed here. This city, when under the Venetians, was opulent, commercial, and populous; but it has now lost much of its former strength and grandeur. The harbour, naturally a fine basin, in which ships were securely sheltered from every storm, is every day becoming narrower and shallower. At present it admits only boats, and small ships after they have discharged a part of their freight. Those vessels, which the Turks freight at Candia, are obliged to go almost empty to the port of Standie, whither their cargoes are conveyed to them in barks. Such inconveniences are highly unfavourable to commerce; and as government never thinks of removing them, the trade of Candia is therefore considerably decayed.
Candia, which was embellished by the Venetians with regular streets, handsome houses, a fine square, and a magnificent cistern, contains at present but a small number of inhabitants, notwithstanding the vast extent of the area enclosed within its walls. Several divisions of the city are void of inhabitants. That in which the market-place stands is the only one which discovers any stir of business, or show of affluence. The Mahometans have converted most of the Christian temples into mosques; yet they have left two churches to the Greeks, one to the Armenians, and a synagogue to the Jews. The Capuchins possess a small convent, with a chapel in which the vice-consul of France hears mass. At present he is the only Frenchman who attends it, as the French merchants have taken up their residence at Canca.
West of the city of Candia is an extensive range of hills, which are a continuation of Mount Ida, and of which the extremity forms the promontory of Dion. On the way to Dion, we find Palio Castro, on the shore; a name which the modern Greeks give indifferently to all remains of ancient cities. Its situation corresponds to that of the ancient Panormus, which stood north-west from Heraclea.
The river which runs west of Candia was anciently known by the name of Triton; near the source of which Minerva sprung from the brain of Jove. Loaxus
is a little farther distant. About a league east of that city, the river Ceratus flows through a delightful vale. According to Strabo, in one part of its course it runs near by Gnossus. A little beyond that, is another river supposed to be Therenus, on the banks of which, fable relates that Jupiter consummated his marriage with Juno. For the space of more than half a league round the walls of Candia there is not a single tree to be seen. The Turks cut them all down in the time of the siege, and laid waste the gardens and orchards. Beyond that extent, the country is plentifully covered with corn and fruit trees. The neighbouring hills are overspread with vineyards, which produce the malmsey of Mount Ida,—worthy of preference at the table of the most exquisite connoisseur in wines. That species of wine, though little known, has a fine flavour, a very pleasant relish, and is highly esteemed in the island.