NIAGARA, a fort of North America, which was
taken from the French in 1759. According to the
treaty of 1794, it was delivered up by Britain to the
United States in 1796. It is situated on a small penin-
sula formed by the river Niagara as it flows into the
lake Ontario. About six leagues from the fort is the
greatest cataract in the world, known by the name of
the Waterfall of Niagara. The river at this fall runs
from SSE to NNW; and the rock of the fall crosses it
not in a right line, but forms a kind of figure like a
hollow semicircle or horse shoe. Above the fall, in the
middle of the river, is an island about 800 or 1000
feet long; the lower end of which is just at the perpen-
dicular edge of the fall. On both sides of this island
runs all the water that comes from the lakes of Canada;
viz. Lake Superior, Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, and
Lake Erie, which have some large rivers that open
themselves into them. Before the water comes to this
island, it runs but slowly compared with its motion
afterwards, when it grows the most rapid in the world,
running with a surprising swiftness before it comes to
the fall. It is perfectly white, and in many places is
thrown high up into the air. The water that runs
down on the west side is more rapid, in greater abun-
dance, and whiter, than that on the east side; and
seems almost to outfly an arrow in swiftness. When
you are at the fall, and look up the river, you may see
that the water is everywhere exceedingly steep, almost
like the side of a hill; but when you come to look at
the fall itself, it is impossible to express the amazement
it occasions. The height of it, as measured by mathe-
matical instruments, is found to be exactly 137 feet;
and when the water is come to the bottom, it jumps
back to a very great height in the air. The noise may be
heard at the distance of 45 miles, but seldom further;
nor can it be heard even at Fort Niagara, which is only
six leagues distant, unless Lake Ontario is calm. At
that fort it is observed, that when they hear the noise
of the fall more loud than ordinary, they are sure that
a north-east wind will follow; which is the more sur-
prising, as the fort lies south-west from the fall. At
some times the fall makes a much greater noise than at
others; and this is held for an infallible sign of ap-
proaching rain or other bad weather.
From the place where the water falls there arises
abundance of vapour like very thick smoke, inasmuch
that when viewed at a distance you would think that
the Indians had set the forests on fire. These vapours
rise high in the air when it is calm, but are dispersed
by the wind when it blows hard. If you go into this
vapour or fog, or if the wind blows it on you, it is so
penetrating, that in a few moments you will be as wet
as if you had been under water. Some are of opinion
that when birds come flying into this fog or smoke of
the fall, they drop down and perish in the water; either
because their wings are become wet, or that the noise
of the fall, astonishes them, and they know not where
to go in the darkness: but others think that seldom
or never any bird perishes there in that manner; be-
cause among the abundance of birds found dead be-
low the fall, there are no other sorts than such as
live and swim frequently in the water; as swans, geese,
ducks, water hens, teal, and the like. And very
often great flocks of them are seen going to destruc-
tion in this manner: they swim in the river above the
fall, and so are carried down lower and lower by the
water; and as water fowl commonly take great delight
in being carried with the stream, they indulge them-
selves in enjoying this pleasure so long, till the swift-
ness of the water becomes so great, that it is no longer
possible for them to rise, but they are driven down the
precipice and perish. They are observed, when they
draw nigh the fall, to endeavour with all their might
to take wing and leave the water; but they cannot.
In the months of September and October such abun-
dant quantities of dead water fowl are found every
morning below the fall, on the shore, that the garrison
of the fort for a long time live chiefly upon them.
Besides the fowl, they find also several sorts of dead
fish, also deer, bears and other animals which have
tried to cross the water above the fall; the larger
animals are generally found broken to pieces. Just
below, a little way from the fall, the water is not rap-
id, but goes all in circles, and whirls like a boiling
pot; which however does not hinder the Indians go-
ing upon it in small canoes a-fishing; but a little fur-
ther, and lower, the other smaller falls begin. When
you are above the fall, and look down, your head be-
gins to turn; even such as have been here numberless
times, will seldom venture to look down, without at the
same time keeping fast hold of some tree with one
hand.
It was formerly thought impossible for anybody
living to come at the island that is in the middle of
the fall; but an accident that happened about 50
years ago made it appear otherwise. The history
is this: Two Indians of the Six Nations went out
from Niagara fort to hunt upon an island that is in the
middle of the river, or strait, above the great fall, on
which there used to be abundance of deer. They took
some French brandy with them from the fort, which
they tasted several times as they were going over the
carrying place; and when they were in their canoe,
they took now and then a dram, and so went along
up the strait towards the island where they proposed
to
Niagara to hunt; but growing sleepy, they laid themselves down in the canoe, which getting loose drove back with the stream, farther and farther down, till it came nigh that island that is in the middle of the fall. Here one of them, awakened by the noise of the fall, cries out to the other, that they were gone: Yet they tried if possible to save life. This island was highest, and with much working they got on shore there. At first they were glad; but when they had considered every thing, they thought themselves hardly in a better state than if they had gone down the fall, since they had now no other choice, than either to throw themselves down the same, or perish with hunger. But hard necessity put them on invention. At the lower end of the island the rock is perpendicular, and no water is running there. The island has plenty of wood; they went to work then, and made a ladder or shrouds of the bark of the lind tree (which is very tough and strong) so long till they could with it reach the water below; one end of this bark ladder they tied fast to a great tree that grew at the side of the rock above the fall, and let the other end down to the water. So they went down along their new invented stairs, and when they came to the bottom in the middle of the fall they rested a little; and as the water next below the fall is not rapid, as before mentioned, they threw themselves out into it, thinking to swim on shore. We have said before, that one part of the fall is on one side of the island, the other on the other side. Hence it is, that the waters of the two cataracts running against each other, turn back against the rock that is just under the island. Therefore, hardly had the Indians begun to swim, before the waves of the eddy threw them back with violence against the rock from whence they came. They tried it several times, but at last grew weary; and by being often thrown against the rock they were much bruised, and the skin torn off their bodies in many places. So they were obliged to climb up stairs again to the island, not knowing what to do. After some time they perceived Indians on the shore, to whom they cried out. These saw and pitied them, but gave them little hope or help: yet they made haste down to the fort, and told the commandant where two of their brothers were. He persuaded them to try all possible means of relieving the two poor Indians; and it was done in the following manner:
The water that runs on the east side of this island is shallow, especially a little above the island towards the eastern shore. The commandant caused poles to be made and pointed with iron; two Indians took upon them to walk to this island by the help of these poles, to save the other poor creatures, or perish themselves. They took leave of all their friends, as if they were going to death. Each had two such poles in his hands, to set to the bottom of the stream, to keep them steady: and in this manner reached the island: and having given poles to the two poor Indians there, they all returned safely to the main land. These two Indians (who in the above-mentioned manner were first brought to this island) were nine days on the island, and almost ready to starve to death. Now since the road to this island has been found, the Indians go there often to kill deer, which have tried to cross the river above the fall, and are driven upon it by the stream. On
the west side of this island are some small islands or rocks, of no consequence. The east side of the river is almost perpendicular, the west side more sloping. In former times, a part of the rock at the fall which is on the west side of the island, hung over in such a manner, that the water which fell perpendicularly from it, left a vacancy below, so that people could go under between the rock and the water; but the prominent part some years since broke off and fell down. The breadth of the fall, as it runs in a semicircle, is reckoned to be about 300 feet. The island is in the middle of the fall, and from it the water on each side is almost the same breadth; the breadth of the island at its lower end is about 100 feet. Below the fall, in the holes of the rocks, are great plenty of eels, which the Indians and French catch with their hands without any other means. Every day when the sun shines, you see here from ten o'clock in the morning to two in the afternoon, below the fall, and under you, where you stand at the side of the fall, a glorious rainbow, and sometimes two, one within the other. The more vapours, the brighter and clearer is the rainbow. When the wind carries the vapours from that place, the rainbow is gone, but appears again as soon as new vapours come. From the fall to the landing above it, where the canoes from Lake Erie put ashore (or from the fall to the upper end of the carrying place), is half a mile. Lower the canoes dare not come, lest they should be obliged to try the fate of the two Indians, and perhaps with less success. They have often found below the fall pieces of human bodies, perhaps drunken Indians, that have unhappily come down to the fall. The French say, that they have often thrown whole great trees into the water above, to see them tumble down the fall: they went down with surprising swiftness, but could never be seen afterwards; whence it was thought there was a bottomless deep or abyss just under the fall. The rock of the fall consists of a gray limestone. For an interesting account of this celebrated fall, the reader is referred to Volney's or Hall's Travels in America.
Having mentioned the Six Nations which live on the banks of the Niagara, we shall here add a few particulars relative to those nations which, as they seem not to be well understood even in America, are probably still less known in Europe. The information which we have to give was communicated to the Royal Society of London by Mr Richard McCausland surgeon to the 8th regiment of foot, who, writing from the best authority, informs us, that each nation is divided into three tribes, of which the principal are called the turtle tribe, the wolf tribe, and the bear tribe.
Each tribe has two, three, or more chiefs, called sachems; and this distinction is always hereditary in the family, but descends along the female line: for instance, if a chief dies, one of his sister's sons, or one of his own brothers, will be appointed to succeed him. Among these no preference is given to proximity or primogeniture; but the sachem, during his lifetime, pitches upon one whom he supposes to have more abilities than the rest; and in this choice he frequently, though not always, consults the principal men of the tribe. If the successor happens to be a child, the offices of the post are performed by some of
Niagara. of his friends until he is of sufficient age to act himself.
Each of these posts of sachem has a name which is peculiar to it, and which never changes, as it is always adopted by the successor: nor does the order of precedence of each of these names or titles ever vary. Nevertheless, any sachem, by abilities and activity, may acquire greater power and influence in the nation than those who rank before him in point of precedence; but this is merely temporary, and dies with him.
Each tribe has one or two chief warriors; which dignity is also hereditary, and has a peculiar name attached to it.
These are the only titles of distinction which are fixed and permanent in the nation; for although any Indian may by superior talents, either as a counsellor or as a warrior, acquire influence in the nation, yet it is not in his power to transmit this to his family.
The Indians have also their great women as well as their great men, to whose opinions they pay great deference: and this distinction is also hereditary in families. They do not sit in council with the sachems, but have separate ones of their own.—When war is declared, the sachems and great women generally give up the management of public affairs into the hands of the warriors. It may however so happen, that a sachem may at the same time be also a chief warrior.
Friendship seems to have been instituted with a view towards strengthening the union between the several nations of the confederacy; and hence friends are called the sineus of the Six Nations. An Indian has therefore generally one or more friends in each nation. Besides the attachment which subsists during the lifetime of the two friends, whenever one of them happens to be killed, it is incumbent on the survivor to replace him, by presenting to his family either a scalp, a prisoner, or a belt consisting of some thousands of wampum; and this ceremony is performed by every friend of the deceased.
The purpose and foundation of war parties, therefore, is in general to procure a prisoner or scalp to replace
the friend or relation of the Indian who is the head of the party. An Indian who wishes to replace a friend or relation presents a belt to his acquaintance; and as many as choose to follow him accept this belt, and become his party. After this, it is of no consequence whether he goes on the expedition or remains at home (as it often happens that he is a child); he is still considered as the head of the party. The belt he presented to his party is returned fixed to the scalp or prisoner, and passes along with them to the friends of the person he replaces. Hence it happens, that a war party, returning with more scalps or prisoners than the original intention of the party required, will often give one of these supernumerary scalps or prisoners to another war party whom they meet going out; upon which this party, having fulfilled the purpose of their expedition, will sometimes return without going to war.