SEA

SEA, in a strict sense, signifies a large portion of water almost surrounded by land, as the Baltic and Mediterranean seas; but it is frequently used for that vast body of water which encompasses the whole earth.

What proportion the superficies of the sea bears to that of the land, cannot easily be ascertained. Buffon has supposed that the surface of our globe is equally divided between land and water, and has accordingly calculated the superficies of the sea to be 85,490,506 square miles. But it is now well known that the ocean covers much more than the half of the earth's surface. Buffon be-

lieved the existence of a vast southern continent, which Captain Cook has shown to be visionary. It was this circumstance which misled him. According to the most accurate observations hitherto made, the surface of the sea is to the land as three to one; the ocean, therefore extends over 128,235,759 square miles, supposing the superficies of the whole globe to be 170,981,012 square miles. To ascertain the depth of the sea is still more difficult than its superficies, both on account of the numerous experiments which it would be necessary to make, and the want of proper instruments for that purpose. Beyond a certain depth the sea has hitherto been found unfathomable; and though several methods have been contrived to obviate this difficulty, none of them has completely answered the purpose. We know in general that the depth of the sea increases gradually as we leave the shore; but if this continued beyond a certain distance, the depth in the middle of the ocean would be prodigious. Indeed the numerous islands everywhere scattered in the sea demonstrate the contrary, by showing us that the bottom of the water is unequal like the land, and that so far from uniformly sinking, it sometimes rises into lofty mountains. If the depth of the sea be in proportion to the elevation of the land, as has generally been supposed, its greatest depth will not exceed five or six miles, for there is no mountain six miles perpendicular above the level of the sea. The sea has never been actually sounded to a greater depth than a mile and 66 feet; every thing beyond that therefore rests entirely upon conjecture and analogical reasoning, which ought never to be admitted to determine a single point that can be ascertained by experiment, because, when admitted, they have too often led to false conclusions. Along the coasts, where the depth of the sea is in general well known, it has always been found proportioned to the height of the shore: when the coast is high and mountainous, the sea that washes it is deep; when, on the contrary, the coast is low, the water is shallow. Whether this analogy holds at a distance from the shore, experiments alone can determine.

To calculate the quantity of water contained in the sea, while its depth is unknown, is impossible. But if we suppose with Buffon that its medium depth is the fourth part of a mile, the ocean, if its superficies be 128,235,759 square miles, will contain 32,058,939.75 cubic miles of water.

Let us now endeavour to compute the quantity of water which is constantly discharged into the sea. For this purpose let us take a river whose velocity and quantity of water is known, the Po, for instance, which according to Riccioli is 1000 feet (or 100 perches of Bologna) broad, 10 feet deep, and runs at the rate of four miles in an hour; consequently that river discharges into the sea 200,000 cubic perches of water in an hour, or 4,800,000 in a day. A cubic mile contains 125,000,000 cubic perches; the Po therefore will take 26 days to discharge a cubic mile of water into the sea. Let us now suppose, what is perhaps not very far from the truth, that the quantity of water which the sea receives from the rivers in any country is proportioned to the extent of that country. The Po from its origin to its mouth traverses a country 380 miles long, and the rivers which fall into it on every side rise from sources about sixty miles distant from it. The

Sex. The Po, therefore, and the rivers which it receives, water a country of 45,600 square miles. Now since the whole superficies of the dry land is about 42,745,253 square miles, it follows, from our supposition, that the quantity of water discharged by all the rivers in the world, in one day, is 36 cubic miles, and in a year 13,140. If therefore the sea contains 32,058,939 cubic miles of water, it would take all the rivers in the world 2439 years to discharge an equal quantity.

It may seem surprising that the sea, since it is continually receiving such an immense supply of water, does not visibly increase, and at last cover the whole earth. But our surprise will cease, if we consider that the rivers themselves are supplied from the sea, and that they do nothing more than carry back those waters which the ocean is continually lavishing on the earth. Dr Halley has demonstrated that the vapours raised from the sea and transported on land are sufficient to maintain all the rivers in the world. The simplicity of this great process is astonishing: the sea not only connects distant countries, and renders it easy to transport the commodities of one nation to another, but its waters rising in the air descend in showers, to fertilize the earth and nourish the vegetable kingdom, and collecting into rivers flow onwards, bringing fertility and wealth and commerce along with them, and again return to the sea to repeat the same round.

The knowledge of this process of nature might, one would think, have convinced philosophers that the proportion between sea and land continued always nearly the same. Philosophers however have formed different theories about this as well as most other subjects, maintaining on the one hand that the sea is continually encroaching on the land, and on the other that the land is constantly gaining on the sea. Both sides have supported their theories by arguments, demonstrations, and incontrovertible facts!

The height of the mountains, say the philosophers who support the encroachments of the sea, is continually diminishing; exposed to the violence of every storm, the hardest rocks must at last give way and tumble down. The rivers are continually sweeping along with them particles of earth which they deposit in the bottom of the sea. Both the depth of the ocean then and the height of the dry land must be always decreasing; the waters therefore must, unless a part of them were annihilated, spread over a greater extent of surface in proportion as these causes operate. This reasoning, convincing as it is, might be confirmed by a great number of facts: it will be sufficient however to mention one or two. In the reign of Augustus the isle of Wight made a part of Britain, so that the English crossed over to it at low water with cart loads of tin; yet that island is at present separated from Britain by a channel half a mile wide. The Godwin sands on the eastern shore of England were formerly the fertile estate of Earl Godwin. Nor are the encroachments of the sea confined to Britain. In the bay of Baie near Naples there are remains of houses and streets still visible below the present level of the sea. The sea, therefore, is making continued encroachments upon the land; and the time will come, say they, when the waters will again cover the surface of the earth.

Such are the arguments of those philosophers who maintain the continual encroachments of the sea. Those

VOL. XIX. Part I.

who maintain the opposite theory, that the land is gradually gaining on the sea, though they pretend not to deny the facts advanced by their opponents, affirm that they are altogether insufficient to establish the hypothesis which they were brought forward to support. Though the rivers carry down particles of earth into the sea, these, say they, are either accumulated on other shores, or, collecting in the bottom of the ocean, harden into stone, which being possessed of a vegetative power rises by degrees above the surface of the sea, and forms rocks, and mountains, and islands. The vegetative nature of stone indeed is sufficient, of itself, to convince us that the quantity of earth must be daily accumulating, and consequently that the surface of the sea is diminishing in extent. Celsius, a Swedish philosopher (for this dispute has been carried on in Sweden with the greatest keenness), has endeavoured to build this theory with more solid materials than vegetable stone. In a curious memoir, published in 1743, he asserts that the Baltic and the Atlantic, at least that part of it which washes Norway, is constantly diminishing; and he proves this by the testimony of a great many aged pilots and fishermen, who affirmed that the sea was become much shallower in many places than it had been during their youth: that many rocks formerly covered with water were now several feet above the surface of the sea: that loaded vessels used formerly to ride in many places where pinnaces and barks could now with difficulty swim. He produces instances of ancient sea-port towns now several leagues from the shore, and of anchors and wrecks of vessels found far within the country. He mentions a particular rock which 168 years before was at the bottom of the sea, but was then raised eight feet above its surface. In another place where the water 50 years before had reached to the knee, there was then none. Several rocks, too, which during the infancy of some old pilots had been two feet under water, were then three feet above it. From all these observations M. Celsius concludes, that the water of the Baltic decreases in height $4\backslash frac\{1\}\{2\}$ lines in a year, 4 inches 5 lines in 18 years, 4 feet 5 inches in a hundred years, and in a thousand years 45 feet. Conscious, however, that these facts, how conclusive soever as far as relates to the Baltic, can never determine the general question, M. Celsius advances another argument in support of his theory. All that quantity of moisture, says he, which is imbibed by plants is lost to the general mass of water, being converted into earth by the putrefaction of vegetables. This notion had been mentioned by Newton, and was adopted by Van Helmont: if granted, it follows as a consequence that the earth is continually increasing and the water diminishing in a very rapid degree.

Such are the arguments advanced in support of both these theories; for it is needless to mention a notion of Linnaeus that the whole earth was formerly covered with water except a single mountain. When fairly weighed, they amount to nothing more than this, that the sea has encroached upon the land in some places, and retired in others; a conclusion which we are very willing to allow. What was advanced by those philosophers who maintain that the sea is continually encroaching on the land, about the depth of the sea constantly diminishing, must remain a mere assertion, till they prove by experiments, either that this is really the case, or that nature has no way of restoring those particles of earth

earth which are washed down by the rivers. Nor have they any good reason to affirm that the height of the mountains is decreasing. Can a single uncontrovertible instance be produced of this? Are the Alps or the Apennines, or Taurus, or Caucasus, less lofty now than they were a thousand years ago? We mean not to deny that the rain actually washes down particles of earth from the mountains, nor to affirm that the hardest rocks are able to resist continual storms, nor that many mountains have suffered, and continue to suffer daily, from a thousand accidents. But the effects produced by all these causes are so trifling as to be altogether imperceptible (A). Nature has assiduously guarded against such accidents; she has formed the mountains of the most durable materials; and where they are covered with earth, she has bound it together by a thick and firm matting of grass, and thus secured it from the rains; and should accident deprive it of this covering, she takes care immediately to supply the defect. Even should the earth be swept away together with its covering, nature has still such resources left as frequently restore things to their former state. Many kinds of moss, one would be tempted to think, have been created for this very purpose: they take root and flourish almost upon the bare rock, and furnish as they decay a sufficient bed for several of the hardy Alpine plants. These perish in their turn, and others succeed them. The roots of the plants bind fast the earth as it accumulates, more plants spring up and spread wider, till by degrees the whole surface is covered with a firm coat of grass.

As the sea covers so great a portion of the globe, we should, no doubt, by exploring its bottom, discover a vast number of interesting particulars. Unfortunately in the greater part of the ocean this has hitherto been impossible. Part, however, has been examined; and the discoveries which this examination has produced may enable us to form some idea at least of the whole. The bottom of the sea, as might have been conjectured indeed before hand, bears a great resemblance to the surface of the dry land, being, like it, full of plains, rocks, caverns and mountains; some of which are abrupt and almost perpendicular, while others rise with a gentle declivity, and sometimes tower above the water and form islands. Neither do the materials differ which compose the bottom of the sea and the basis of the dry land. If we dig to a considerable depth in any part of the earth, we uniformly meet with rock; the same thing holds in the sea. The strata, too, are of the same kind, disposed in the same manner, and form indeed but one whole. The same kind of mineral and bituminous substances are also found interspersed with these strata; and it is to them probably that the sea is indebted for its bitter taste. Over these natural and original strata an artificial bed has pretty generally been formed, composed of different materials in different places. It consists frequently of muddy tartareous substances firmly cemented

together, sometimes of shells or coral reduced to powder, and near the mouths of rivers it is generally composed of fine sand or gravel. The bottom of the sea resembles the land likewise in another particular: many fresh springs and even rivers rise out of it, which, displacing the salt water, render the lower part of the sea wherever they abound quite fresh. An instance of this kind occurs near Goa on the western coast of India, and another† in the Mediterranean sea not far * Boyle de from Marseilles. These facts occasioned a notion, which Fundo Ma- later experiments have exploded, that the sea beyond a certain depth was always fresh.

Substances of a very beautiful appearance are frequently brought up by the sounding line from the bottom of the sea. The plummet is hollowed below, and this cavity filled with tallow, to which some of the substances adhere which form the bed of the ocean. These are generally sand, gravel, or mud; but they are sometimes of the brightest scarlet, vermilion, purple, and yellow; and sometimes, though less frequently, they are blue, green, or white. These colours are owing to a kind of jelly which envelopes the substances, and vanish entirely as soon as this jelly dries. At times, however, they assume the appearance of tartareous crusts, and are then so permanent, that they can be received into white wax melted and poured round them, and perhaps by proper care might be converted into valuable paints.

Sea-water is really, as any one may convince himself by pouring it into a glass, as clear and transparent as the river water. The various appearances therefore which it assumes are owing to accidental causes, and not to any change in the water itself. The depth, or the materials which compose the bottom of the sea, occasions it to assume different colours in different places. The Arabian gulf, for instance, is said to be red from the colour of the sands which form its bed. The appearance of the sea is affected too by the winds and the sun, while the clouds that pass over it communicate all their various and fleeting colours. When the sun shines it is green; when the sun gleams through a fog it is yellow; near the north pole it appears black; while in the torrid zone its colour is often brown. Sometimes the sea assumes a luminous appearance. See LIGHT, Vol. XII. page 2.

The sea contains the greatest quantity of salt in the torrid zone, where otherwise from the excessive heat it would be in danger of putrefaction: as we advance northward this quantity diminishes, till at the pole it nearly vanishes altogether. Under the line Lucas found that the sea contained a seventh part of solid contents, consisting chiefly of sea-salt. At Harwich he found it yielded $\backslash frac\{1\}\{7\}$th of sea-salt. At Carlsroon in Sweden it contains $\backslash frac\{1\}\{10\}$th part (B), and on the coast of Greenland a great deal less. This deficiency of salt near the poles probably contributes a good deal towards the prodigious

(A) M. Gensanne pretends that the Pyrenean mountains become an inch lower every ten years. But even according to his own calculation, it would require a million of years to level these mountains with the plain, though they continued to decrease at the same rate; and philosophers tell us that this rate is constantly diminishing!

(B) This gradual diminution of saltiness from the equator to the pole is not, however, without particular exceptions. The Mediterranean sea contains $\backslash frac\{1\}\{7\}$ of sea-salt, which is less than the German sea contains.

Sc. quantities of ice which are met with in these seas; for salt water requires a much greater degree of cold to freeze it than fresh water. It was this circumstance, probably, together with its constant motion, which induced the ancients to believe that the sea never froze. Even among the moderns it has been a generally received opinion, that sea-ice is originally formed in rivers. Buffon has made the great quantities of ice with which the South sea abounds an argument for the existence of a continent near the Antarctic pole. But it is now well known that great quantities of ice are formed at a distance from land. Sea-ice is of two kinds; field ice, which extends along the shore, and is only two or three feet thick; and mountain ice, which abounds in the middle of the ocean. The size of these mountains is sometimes prodigious. The sea-ice is always fresh, and has been often of great use to navigators. The weight of sea-water is to that of river-water as 73 to 70; that is, a cubic foot of sea-water weighs 73 lb. while the same quantity of river-water weighs only 70 lb.; but this proportion varies in different places. It is worthy of our attention, too, that the water at the surface of the sea contains less salt than near the bottom; the difference indeed is inconsiderable, but still it is something. The Compte de Marsigli found the same quantity of water, when taken from the bottom of the Mediterranean, to weigh one ounce three pennyweights 51 grains; whereas from the surface it weighed only one ounce three pennyweights 49 grains. He repeated the experiment frequently with nearly the same result.

12
tempera-
re of the
sc.
de
perie
sum
marina
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
32.
33.
34.
35.
36.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
63.
64.
65.
66.
67.
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73.
74.
75.
76.
77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
85.
86.
87.
88.
89.
90.
91.
92.
93.
94.
95.
96.
97.
98.
99.
100.
101.
102.
103.
104.
105.
106.
107.
108.
109.
110.
111.
112.
113.
114.
115.
116.
117.
118.
119.
120.
121.
122.
123.
124.
125.
126.
127.
128.
129.
130.
131.
132.
133.
134.
135.
136.
137.
138.
139.
140.
141.
142.
143.
144.
145.
146.
147.
148.
149.
150.
151.
152.
153.
154.
155.
156.
157.
158.
159.
160.
161.
162.
163.
164.
165.
166.
167.
168.
169.
170.
171.
172.
173.
174.
175.
176.
177.
178.
179.
180.
181.
182.
183.
184.
185.
186.
187.
188.
189.
190.
191.
192.
193.
194.
195.
196.
197.
198.
199.
200.
201.
202.
203.
204.
205.
206.
207.
208.
209.
210.
211.
212.
213.
214.
215.
216.
217.
218.
219.
220.
221.
222.
223.
224.
225.
226.
227.
228.
229.
230.
231.
232.
233.
234.
235.
236.
237.
238.
239.
240.
241.
242.
243.
244.
245.
246.
247.
248.
249.
250.
251.
252.
253.
254.
255.
256.
257.
258.
259.
260.
261.
262.
263.
264.
265.
266.
267.
268.
269.
270.
271.
272.
273.
274.
275.
276.
277.
278.
279.
280.
281.
282.
283.
284.
285.
286.
287.
288.
289.
290.
291.
292.
293.
294.
295.
296.
297.
298.
299.
300.
301.
302.
303.
304.
305.
306.
307.
308.
309.
310.
311.
312.
313.
314.
315.
316.
317.
318.
319.
320.
321.
322.
323.
324.
325.
326.
327.
328.
329.
330.
331.
332.
333.
334.
335.
336.
337.
338.
339.
340.
341.
342.
343.
344.
345.
346.
347.
348.
349.
350.
351.
352.
353.
354.
355.
356.
357.
358.
359.
360.
361.
362.
363.
364.
365.
366.
367.
368.
369.
370.
371.
372.
373.
374.
375.
376.
377.
378.
379.
380.
381.
382.
383.
384.
385.
386.
387.
388.
389.
390.
391.
392.
393.
394.
395.
396.
397.
398.
399.
400.
401.
402.
403.
404.
405.
406.
407.
408.
409.
410.
411.
412.
413.
414.
415.
416.
417.
418.
419.
420.
421.
422.
423.
424.
425.
426.
427.
428.
429.
430.
431.
432.
433.
434.
435.
436.
437.
438.
439.
440.
441.
442.
443.
444.
445.
446.
447.
448.
449.
450.
451.
452.
453.
454.
455.
456.
457.
458.
459.
460.
461.
462.
463.
464.
465.
466.
467.
468.
469.
470.
471.
472.
473.
474.
475.
476.
477.
478.
479.
480.
481.
482.
483.
484.
485.
486.
487.
488.
489.
490.
491.
492.
493.
494.
495.
496.
497.
498.
499.
500.
501.
502.
503.
504.
505.
506.
507.
508.
509.
510.
511.
512.
513.
514.
515.
516.
517.
518.
519.
520.
521.
522.
523.
524.
525.
526.
527.
528.
529.
530.
531.
532.
533.
534.
535.
536.
537.
538.
539.
540.
541.
542.
543.
544.
545.
546.
547.
548.
549.
550.
551.
552.
553.
554.
555.
556.
557.
558.
559.
560.
561.
562.
563.
564.
565.
566.
567.
568.
569.
570.
571.
572.
573.
574.
575.
576.
577.
578.
579.
580.
581.
582.
583.
584.
585.
586.
587.
588.
589.
590.
591.
592.
593.
594.
595.
596.
597.
598.
599.
600.
601.
602.
603.
604.
605.
606.
607.
608.
609.
610.
611.
612.
613.
614.
615.
616.
617.
618.
619.
620.
621.
622.
623.
624.
625.
626.
627.
628.
629.
630.
631.
632.
633.
634.
635.
636.
637.
638.
639.
640.
641.
642.
643.
644.
645.
646.
647.
648.
649.
650.
651.
652.
653.
654.
655.
656.
657.
658.
659.
660.
661.
662.
663.
664.
665.
666.
667.
668.
669.
670.
671.
672.
673.
674.
675.
676.
677.
678.
679.
680.
681.
682.
683.
684.
685.
686.
687.
688.
689.
690.
691.
692.
693.
694.
695.
696.
697.
698.
699.
700.
701.
702.
703.
704.
705.
706.
707.
708.
709.
710.
711.
712.
713.
714.
715.
716.
717.
718.
719.
720.
721.
722.
723.
724.
725.
726.
727.
728.
729.
730.
731.
732.
733.
734.
735.
736.
737.
738.
739.
740.
741.
742.
743.
744.
745.
746.
747.
748.
749.
750.
751.
752.
753.
754.
755.
756.
757.
758.
759.
760.
761.
762.
763.
764.
765.
766.
767.
768.
769.
770.
771.
772.
773.
774.
775.
776.
777.
778.
779.
780.
781.
782.
783.
784.
785.
786.
787.
788.
789.
790.
791.
792.
793.
794.
795.
796.
797.
798.
799.
800.
801.
802.
803.
804.
805.
806.
807.
808.
809.
810.
811.
812.
813.
814.
815.
816.
817.
818.
819.
820.
821.
822.
823.
824.
825.
826.
827.
828.
829.
830.
831.
832.
833.
834.
835.
836.
837.
838.
839.
840.
841.
842.
843.
844.
845.
846.
847.
848.
849.
850.
851.
852.
853.
854.
855.
856.
857.
858.
859.
860.
861.
862.
863.
864.
865.
866.
867.
868.
869.
870.
871.
872.
873.
874.
875.
876.
877.
878.
879.
880.
881.
882.
883.
884.
885.
886.
887.
888.
889.
890.
891.
892.
893.
894.
895.
896.
897.
898.
899.
900.
901.
902.
903.
904.
905.
906.
907.
908.
909.
910.
911.
912.
913.
914.
915.
916.
917.
918.
919.
920.
921.
922.
923.
924.
925.
926.
927.
928.
929.
930.
931.
932.
933.
934.
935.
936.
937.
938.
939.
940.
941.
942.
943.
944.
945.
946.
947.
948.
949.
950.
951.
952.
953.
954.
955.
956.
957.
958.
959.
960.
961.
962.
963.
964.
965.
966.
967.
968.
969.
970.
971.
972.
973.
974.
975.
976.
977.
978.
979.
980.
981.
982.
983.
984.
985.
986.
987.
988.
989.
990.
991.
992.
993.
994.
995.
996.
997.
998.
999.
1000.

a very violent tempest, rise two feet higher. It is affirmed by Pliny, and several other ancient writers, that oil calms the waves of the sea; and that divers were accustomed to carry some of it for that purpose in their mouths. This account was always considered by the moderns as a fable, and treated with such contempt, that they did not even deign to put it to the test of experiment, till Dr Franklin accidentally discovered its truth. Happening in 1757 to be in the middle of a large fleet, he observed that the water round one or two vessels was quite calm and smooth, while everywhere else it was very much agitated by the winds. He applied to the captain for an explanation of this phenomenon, who replied, that the cooks, he supposed, had thrown their greasy water out at the scupper-holes, and by that means oiled the sides of the vessels in question. This answer did not satisfy the Doctor at first; but recollecting what Pliny had said on the subject, he resolved at least to make the experiment. He did so accordingly in 1762, and found that oil actually calmed the waves of the sea. He repeated the experiment upon a pond at Clapham: the oil spread itself with great rapidity upon the surface, but did not produce the desired effect, because, having been thrown in upon the side opposite to the wind, it was immediately driven to the edge of the water. But upon throwing in a like quantity upon the other side of the lake, it calmed in an instant several yards of surface: and gradually spreading, rendered all that part of the lake, to the extent of at least half an acre, as smooth as glass. The curious effect produced by this liquid may be accounted for by the repulsion which exists between oil and water, and between oil and air, which prevents all immediate contact, all rubbing of the one upon the other.

2. The second kind of motion is that continual tendency which the whole water in the sea has towards the west. It is greater near the equator than about the poles; and indeed cannot be said to take place at all in the northern hemisphere beyond the tropic. It begins on the west side of America, where it is moderate: hence that part of the ocean has been called Pacific. As the waters advance westward their motion is accelerated; so that, after having traversed the globe, they strike with great violence on the eastern shore of America. Being stopped by that continent, they turn northward, and run with considerable impetuosity in the gulf of Mexico; from thence they proceed along the coast of North America, till they come to the south side of the great bank at Newfoundland, when they turn off, and run down through the Western Isles. This current is called the Gulf Stream. It was first accurately described by Dr Franklin, who remarked also, that the water in it having been originally heated in the torrid zone, cools so gradually in its passage northward, that even the latitude might be found in any part of the stream by means of a thermometer.— This motion of the sea westward has never been explained: it seems to have some connection with the trade-winds and the diurnal revolution of the earth on its axis.

3. The third and most remarkable motion of the sea is the tide, which is a regular swell of the ocean once caused by every 12 hours, owing, as Newton has demonstrated, to the attraction of the moon. In the middle of the sea the tide seldom rises higher than one or two feet,

but on the coast it frequently reaches the height of 45 feet, and in some places even more. The tide generally rises higher in the evening than in the morning: on the coast of Britain this holds in winter, but in summer the morning tides are highest. In some seas it is said that there are no tides. This cannot be owing to their being surrounded by land, because there is a tide in the lakes of North America. For an explanation of these and other phenomena we refer to the article TIDE.