JAEN, an ancient kingdom of the south of Spain, now forming one of the four portions into which the province of Andalusia is divided. The extent of this province is 268 square leagues, and its population amounts to 206,807 souls. La Mancha bounds it on the north, Cordova on the west, and Granada on the east and south. It is surrounded on every side by lofty mountains, which almost exclude it from intercourse with the surrounding provinces. Its surface is a constant alternation of hills and valleys; and as from the surrounding mountains innumerable rivulets issue, its lower levels of land are abundantly irrigated, and therefore highly productive, whilst the hills, from want of moisture, are barren, or yield little except some sheep pasture in the winter season, when the merino flocks, driven from the north, seek food in the southern provinces. It produces wheat and barley, but not sufficient for its consumption. It has abundance of oil, and a full supply of wine, and its fruits are exquisite and plentiful.
The principal river is the Guadalquivir, which runs through the centre of the province, and receives additions to its copious stream from the junction of the Guadalmar, the Jandula, the Jaen, and the Escobar. There are some mines of lead in this province, in which sometimes considerable quantities of silver are found. These mines were of some celebrity whilst the Romans governed Spain; and though the silver has been less sought for since the discovery of the mines of America, yet, for the sake of the lead, they are now carried on by the government, and furnish sheet lead, shot, and musket balls, to the southern part of the kingdom. The manufacture of earthen jars, called alcarrazas, for keeping liquors in a cool state in the warmest weather, is the most considerable production of Jaen that is sent out of the province; and they are much esteemed in every part of Andalusia. The celebrated university of Alcalá la Real, founded by Cardinal Ximenes, still exists in this province, and is attended by a number of students in divinity. The biblical scholar recognises it as having been the scene of the labours of the editors of the Complutensian edition of the Old Testament. In this province is the celebrated field, called the Plain of Tolosa, on which, six centuries ago, the most sanguinary battle was fought that the history of Spain has recorded.