ANTRIM, a maritime county of Ireland, in the province of Ulster, situate in the northern extremity of the island. It presents a considerable line of coast to the Northern Ocean and to the Irish Channel. By the former it is bounded on the north, and by the latter on the east. Carrickfergus Bay, or Belfast Lough, and the river Lagan, on the south-east, divide it from the county of Down, as far to the south as Spencer's Bridge. To the south-west it has the same county, which, running to a point, meets Loughneagh at Shanport. The winding shores of Loughneagh and Loughbeg form its boundaries on the west, as far as the point where it meets the river Bann; whence this river taking a northern course, inclining west, separates the counties of Antrim and Derry, until it touches the liberties of Coleraine (about 3000 acres), which are on the Antrim side of that river.
This county lies between and north latitude. Its greatest length, from Bengove Head north to Spencer's Bridge south, is 41 Irish miles; and its greatest breadth, from the Gobbins east to Toome west, is about 24 miles; comprising, according to the latest authorities, 420,999 Irish acres.
Divisions. In 1584-5 the county was divided into eight baronies, viz. Dunluce, Glenarm, Toome, Antrim, Belfast, Massereene, Carey, and Kilconway. Of late years all except the two last have been subdivided into half-baronies, called Upper and Lower. There are also smaller divisions, as parishes, granges, manors, constablewicks, townlands or quarterlands. The number of parishes is 72, the townlands amount to 1543. As far as the original names of the latter have been discovered, they are purely Celtic, and expressive of the qualities of the land, or of some other local circumstances. This subdivision is said to have taken place in the 13th century. Several of the granges are extra-parochial, and some of them do not pay tithes.
The county returns four members to the imperial parliament, viz. two for the shire, and one for each of the towns of Belfast and Lisburn, both of which are close boroughs. Carrickfergus, though within the lower half-barony of Belfast, yet is a county corporate, distinct from the county of Antrim. It is a free borough, and returns one member to parliament. In Carrickfergus are held the assizes, elections, and sessions twice every year, for the county of Antrim. The other chief towns are, Ballymena, Ballymony, Antrim, and Larne; sessions are held in the first three, and also in Belfast.
The bishopric of Connor comprehends the county of Antrim and liberties of Coleraine, except the parish of Aghalee, in the barony of Massereene, which is in the
diocese of Dromore, and the townland of Ballyscullionbeg, on the Antrim side of the river Bann, attached to that of Derry.
The interior of the county on the eastern side is mountainous, nearly destitute of plantations, and abounding in bogs, many of which, from their situation, appear irreclaimable. This character also in some measure applies to the northern side; and it is computed that at least 119,136 acres are incapable of improvement. The baronies of Belfast, Antrim, Massereene, and Toome, are the most level and fruitful. A stupendous assemblage of basaltic columns, the Giant's Causeway, which is described under its own title, is seen on the maritime confines of Antrim; as also Fairhead, and other lofty capes and promontories. These are composed of thousands of prismatic pillars of various dimensions, ranged in successive strata, and so closely connected in some places that a cavity formed in the surface holds water. The principal mountains are, Knocklead, near Ballycastle; Aura, Trostram, Slemish; and Devis, near Belfast.
Besides basalt, there are found limestone, gypsum, coals, surturband or fossil wood, freestone, and marble. The fossil wood, or wood-coal, in most places, as at Ballintoy and Killymorris, is covered with columns of basalt. In burning it emits a disagreeable smell, resembling that of rotten wood. Notwithstanding the compressed state in which it is found, the bark and knots are quite distinct, and the rings denoting the annual growth of the wood may be counted. In some instances the roots of the trees may be traced. Their heads all lie to the east, and seem as if laid down by a storm. Of the three coal mines which are wrought in Ulster, there are two in Antrim; the one at Ballycastle, the other at Killymorris. The greater quantity of coal raised at Ballycastle is exported; at Killymorris little is raised, except in wet seasons when peat is scarce.
The rivers of this county are numerous, but in general small. The most considerable are, the Lower Bann, which discharges the waters of Loughneagh into the sea near Coleraine; the Lagan, which falls into the Lough of Belfast; and the Maine, which rises near Ballymony, and disembogues itself into Loughneagh near Randlestown. The other rivers are the Bush, Revel, Braid, Kells-water, Six-mile-water, Crumlin, and Glencavy, none of which is navigable. Near Ballycastle and Rasharkin are chalybeate springs; and there is a salt spring near Carrickfergus. Loughneagh, belonging more properly to the county of Armagh, will be described under that article. It may be proper, however, to notice in this place, that, of the two islands in this expanse of water, Ram Island, from its contiguity to Antrim, is considered as belonging to that county. It contains about seven acres, and is the property of Lord O'Neill, who has erected on it a beautiful cottage.
Rathlin Island lies off the northern coast of the county, opposite to the town of Ballycastle, from whose quay its nearest point is distant five miles. This island is about five miles in length, and, at a mean, upwards of three quarters of a mile in breadth, divided into 25 quarterlands, and containing 1996 acres, about one fourth of which is arable. Barley is almost the only grain sown, and, with kelp, furnishes their chief exports. In 1802 the island contained 145 dwelling-houses, and 1021 inhabitants; in 1821 it had 1080 inhabitants. On the northern angle of the island are some vestiges of a castle celebrated as having afforded refuge in 1806 to Robert Bruce. Near this building is a natural cavern called Bruce's Cave; at its entrance is a wall of lime and stone, which had evidently been erected for its defence.
No regular accounts of the climate of Antrim have been kept except at Belfast; and from these it appears that less rain falls here than is generally supposed, the
annual fall of rain, on an average of six complete years, being only 24,700 inches. The greatest height of the barometer between the years 1796 and 1809 was 31 inches, the lowest 28 inches. The greatest height of the thermometer during that period was 78° 80, the lowest 25°. The mean temperature of the northern coast of Antrim, near the town of Ballycastle, in latitude 55° 12', as observed in the year 1788, by means of copious springs flowing from limestone soil, was 48°.
The estates in Antrim are in general freehold, being either immediate grants from the crown, or held under those grants: the only exceptions are the properties held under the see of Connor. Some of the estates are very large. The marquis of Hertford and Donegall, and the Antrim family, possess the fee of the greater part of the county. The estate of the first includes 11 parishes, containing nearly 80,000 English acres. The marquis of Donegall usually lets his lands on a fine for 61 years, or three lives: of late he has also granted many perpetuities. Most of the Antrim estate is let on perpetuity, in lots worth from £1,000 to £4,000 per annum. The other chief proprietors are Lord O'Neill, the countess of Massereene, Colonel Packenham, and Lord Templeton. The estate of the last is only leasehold under the marquis of Donegall. In January 1830 the total number of registered freeholders in this county for £10 and upwards was 2037: in the same year the amount of the county cess was £41,627. 9s. 11d.
The farms in Antrim are in general small; in the arable districts they generally vary from six to thirty acres, and the average rent is estimated at between 20s. and 35s. the Irish acre. The principal feature in the tillage system of a great part of the county is the potato fallow. The quantity of potato land is commonly regulated by the manure that can be collected: of late years the culture of potatoes has been much increased by the use of lime. After potatoes, wheat or oats are sown; if the latter, two or three crops are successively taken. When the ground is exhausted, potatoes are again planted, or the land is suffered to rest for a year or two, until it is covered with natural grass, in which state it is termed lea. The sowing of wheat is chiefly confined to the baronies of Belfast, Antrim, and Massereene. In 1763 there was not one flour-mill in the county. Flax is also sown after potatoes, except in the lower or northern part of the county. It bears a very small proportion in the general crop, less being sown than formerly. Flax-seed is rarely attempted to be saved. Of late years a considerable quantity of flax has been imported, chiefly from Holland. In 1830 the quantity of flax-seed imported at Belfast was 5637 hogsheads, the greater part of which was sown in the counties of Down, Armagh, and Derry. Barley is also sown in many places, but seldom in large quantities. The culture of beans is chiefly confined to the parishes of Island-Magee and Cairncastle; they are mostly exported to Scotland. Turnips or vetches are rarely sown. Kail are seldom planted as food for cattle. Such is the principal feature of the husbandry of the county of Antrim, which, however, from the improvements made by individuals, admits of many exceptions. This is strikingly exemplified in those districts where the tenants hold leases under liberal landlords: there underwoods have been cleared off, bogs or marshes reclaimed into arable lands or meadow, and better and less cumbrous fences erected. Where the tenants hold at will, the lands are usually let at a rack-rent; and the smallest improvement by the occupier is almost certain of promoting a corresponding advance in his rent, of which he rarely receives advice till he waits on the land-agent, or is visited by his bailiff.
The county at present (1830) perhaps possesses less timber than at any former period. The woods of Portmore and Glenarm have long since yielded to the axe; and the extensive plantings at Antrim, Templepatrick, Ballyclare, and Clementshill, have shared a similar fate. Many thriving plantations of trees have, however, been planted of late years near noblemen and gentlemen's seats, which already add much to the appearance of the face of the country. The plantations of Lord O'Neill at Shannonscastle and Claggan, and those of the late Lord Macartney near Loughguile, are the most extensive. On the Hertford estate, near Loughneagh, many orchards are planted, which produce valuable varieties of the apple, the greater part of which is sold in Belfast; and considerable quantities are annually exported to Scotland.
The cattle of Antrim have no feature to distinguish them as being allied to any particular stock. Of late years considerable attention has been paid by gentlemen farmers to the improvement of the breed, by crossing with the Dutch, Leicester, and Ayrshire cattle, which is said to have improved much those kept for milk. In 1827 81,092 firkins of butter were exported from Belfast. Sheep are little attended to, and the few kept are mostly of an inferior kind. Few goats are kept, and those chiefly by cottagers. Pigs are reared and kept in considerable numbers, and on these the small farmers and cotters depend chiefly to make up their rents; so that it is not uncommon to find from two to eight or ten of these animals about each farmer's house. During the salting season, which may be said to commence in September and end in May, the number brought to market is immense. In the months of November, December, and January, 1826-27, upwards of 71,000 pigs were sold in Belfast, which, taken one with another, weighed 200 lbs., and varying in price from £1. 12s. to £2. 14s. per cwt.
Antrim has long been distinguished for its linen manufacture; but latterly the manufacture of cotton has in some measure supplanted it, especially in the vicinity of the towns of Belfast, Lisburn, Antrim, and Carrickfergus. In 1771 there were 441 linen looms at work in Belfast; at present not one is employed. The cotton spinning by jennies was first introduced in 1777 by Robert Joy and Thomas McCabe of Belfast, under the direction of a female spinner from Glasgow. In the following year the latter gentleman also introduced the fly-shuttle. In the year 1800 it was computed that upwards of 13,000 people were directly employed in the cotton manufacture; and, including all manner of persons occupied in it in various ways, the number was at least 27,000, within a circuit of ten miles, comprehending, however, the towns of Belfast, Lisburn, and Carrickfergus. The number employed in the same space is now probably little short of twice that number. For many years after the introduction of the cotton business, the greater part of the yarn used for warps, and much of the weft yarn, were imported from Manchester or Scotland. Of late years cotton yarn has been exported from Belfast, though some is still imported, chiefly from Glasgow. In 1790, 39,603,451 lbs. of cotton wool were imported at Belfast; in 1826, 159,999,446 lbs. were imported at the same port, since which time the quantity has increased. In 1800 a weaver commonly earned, at weaving calico, from 10s. to 16s. per week; at present his earnings vary from 3s. 6d. to 5s. each week, for which he perhaps works about 17 hours per day. The linen manufacture, though now much depressed, may still be considered the staple manufacture of Antrim. It is a peculiarity of this business, as it is established in Ireland, that it does not remove the peasant from the comforts and healthiness of rural life. In Antrim the weaver and the labourer of the soil are united in the same person.
Antrim. Many weavers have small farms, and only employ themselves in weaving during the intervals of their farming occupations; and almost all who pursue this trade possess gardens, and ground for potatoes. Many of the houses have from two to three looms, which cost from £4 to £5. 5s. each. Looms are also let out on hire by the year, at about 10s. Boys are hired out to attend looms: when they attend two looms, which is ample work for a boy of 12 or 15 years of age, the wages are about 16s. the half-year, with diet and lodging. A fine web, that is, a 16 or 18 hundred, is commonly woven in ten days or a fortnight. In some places the cloth is chiefly wrought by the fly-shuttle. Formerly the wages paid for this work varied from 14s. to 20s.; at present it is less: hence many weavers have become day-labourers. The price of linen yarn is also much reduced: that which formerly sold at 10d. or 1s. per hank often brings little more than the half of that price. This is in a great measure owing to the spinning of flax by machinery. Of late, cloth-merchants prefer cloth made from the yarn spun by the hand, and some refuse altogether to buy that made from the machine yarn. The best linen cloth is made in a district commonly called Kells-water, extending from Connor to near Randlestown. Nearly all the yarn wrought in this district is bought in Ballymena, and the cloth is sold in Belfast.
Fisheries. There are several considerable salmon fisheries on the rivers and coast of Antrim. One at Redbay, near Cushindall, another at the Point of Tor, near Fairhead; one at Ballycastle; one at Carrickarade; another between it and the Giant's Causeway, and another at the Bush-foot. The greatest is at the river Bann, at a place called the Catts, near Coleraine. The price of salmon, when sold in the neighbouring towns, or Belfast, varies from 5d. to 10d. per lb. There is also a considerable eel fishery at Toome.
Antiquities. The antiquities of this county consist of cairns, caves, cromlechs, mounts or forths, ecclesiastical and military remains, and round towers. There are three round towers standing, viz. Antrim, which is perfect, and 95 feet high; Armoy, about four miles from Ballycastle, which is 44 feet high, part only being standing. Ram Island tower is 43 feet high, a portion having evidently fallen down. Until lately there was also a small round tower at Trumery: it fell in March 1829.
Population. In 1712 the number of dwelling-houses in the county of Antrim was 19,268; in 1726 their number was 18,916; in 1791 the houses were 30,314, of which 22,353 paid for one hearth, and the remainder were returned as inhabited by paupers, being unable to pay that tax. By the population returns of 1813, the county contained 42,258 dwelling-houses and 231,548 inhabitants; by the returns of 1821, 46,661 dwelling-houses and 262,860 inhabitants, 125,053 of whom were males, and 137,807 females.
Antrim has been supposed to contain a greater proportion of Protestants than any other county in Ireland; and of the Protestants a very great proportion are Presbyterians. The greater part of these are in connection with the general synod of Ulster, the others are Reformers, who separated from the synod in 1829; Burghers, Antiburghers, Covenanters, Independents, and a few Moravians. In several parishes, however, a decided majority are Roman Catholics: these parishes are Loyd, Culiegh-town, and Duneane. In several other parishes the number of Roman Catholics is also considerable.