RIO GRANDE DO SUL

RIO GRANDE DO SUL, formerly the most southern province in the empire of Brazil, but, according to recent accounts, now an independent republic of South America. It declared its independence in 1836, and resolved on introducing a constitution similar to that of the United States of North America. In April and May 1838 two severe conflicts took place between the troops of the emperor of Brazil and the insurgents, in both of which the former were defeated with great slaughter. Whether this country may ultimately succeed in maintaining its position among the republican states of South America, appears very doubtful. Rio Grande do Sul is bounded on the north by St Catharina and St Paulo; on the west by the river Uruguay, which separates it from the republic of the same name; on the south by the river Plata; and on the east by the Atlantic Ocean. It is upwards of five hundred miles in length by four hundred in breadth, lying between latitude 25° and 35° south, and enjoys a temperate and salubrious climate. This extensive country chiefly consists of large plains, covered with immense herds of cattle and other animals. Some mountain-ridges traverse it in various directions, but none of them is of any great height. Here several large rivers have their origin, of which the Uruguay, the Jacuhy or Rio Pardo, and the Camapuan, are the most important. Its great extent of level and alluvial coast exhibits some lakes of vast dimensions. The Lagoa dos Patos is the largest lake in Brazil, being one hundred and fifty miles in length from north-east to south-west, and about forty miles in breadth. It is said to derive its name from a species of fowl which frequents its waters in great numbers. This lake is the recipient of almost all the streams which irrigate the northern and eastern portions of the country. It is very shallow, and its water continues fresh as far as the island dos Marinheiros, near the port of St Pedro. Although encumbered with sand-banks, and subject to violent squalls of wind, it may be navigated without much risk. The peninsula lying between the lake and the ocean is low and level, and almost in a direct line on the eastern side, but forms various points and bays on the opposite side. The western shore of the lake is bold but not rugged, and is cut by several rivers, of which the Camapuan and Jacuhy, already mentioned, are most deserving of notice. The sources of the former are in a chain of low hills called the great Coelhilla, which traverses the western limits of the country. It flows with a rapid and disturbed current, interrupted by continued cataracts for nearly a hundred miles, receiving fourteen streams from the south and fifteen from the north, and falls into the lake about the middle of its western side, by five different channels, formed by four small islands. The Jacuhy, sometimes called the Rio Pardo, which is one of its tributaries, is a river of still greater value. It rises in the province of St Paulo, and after traversing the southern declivity of the general ridge for a few leagues, it turns eastward, describing innumerable windings for a course of thirty leagues, during which it collects the water of a number of smaller rivers, many of them being navigable. It then suddenly bends towards the south, and after running fifteen miles in this direction, enters the western side of the lake about four leagues below its northern extremity. It is a fine, broad and deep river, with lofty and diversified banks, and is full of little islands. To the south-west of the Lagoa dos Patos lies another sheet of water, called Lake Mirim, or Mirin. It is ninety miles in length by about twenty in breadth, and discharges itself into the Lagoa dos Patos by means of a channel called the river of St Gonzales. Lake Mirim is very shallow, and in the rainy season it widely extends its borders. The Gonzales is fifty miles in length: it is wide and handsome, and navigable for small vessels, which by this channel pass into Lake Mirim, and thence by means of rivers penetrate into the fertile interior, and distribute their cargos to the large towns

on the coast. There are other large lakes running parallel with the shore, but these are the most important.

On the northern bank of the Jacuhy, twenty-five miles from its mouth, stands the town of Portalegre, the capital of the country. It is situated on a declivity, and commands a fine view of the river and the surrounding country. The houses are well built, the streets well laid out, and altogether it is a very neat and flourishing place. The government-house and public offices are placed on a hill. It has several churches, schools, what appear to be the rudiments of a university, a dock-yard, and other public establishments and institutions. In 1812 Mr Luccock thus spoke of it: "As a capital, its influence is wide; as a seat of commerce, it commands a large tract of country, and many navigable rivers." It has subsequently made very great advancement. Englishmen have long been established here; and not only commerce, but agriculture, has been much benefited by their exertions. One great bar to improvement is, that much of the interior is still in the hands of the native tribes, whose animosity to white people is of the bitterest description. Portalegre contains above 12,000 inhabitants.

Being situated at the head of the great lake, it has constant intercourse with St Pedro do Sul, which lies at the foot of it. Up to the year 1763 this town was the capital of the province, and was usually called Rio Grande, from its harbour, which forms the entrance to the Lagoa dos Patos, and is, with the same impropriety as the bay of Rio de Janeiro, termed a river. The town was begun a league to the south-west of where it now stands, in the situation called Estreito, near the head of the bay or harbour. It stood on a bank about twenty feet in height, and was surrounded with a parapet of sods, as a barrier against the encroaching sands.¹ Yet by a slow but sure progress they appear to have gained ground, so as almost to have overwhelmed the town, and occasioned its removal to the present site. It is now situated on a level plain, a little above high-water mark; but, like its predecessor, it suffers much from the accumulation of sand. Its public buildings comprise a cathedral, the plainness of which externally and internally does not prevent it from being a handsome edifice. It has several public buildings, and is defended by a fort. Its commercial importance appears to be considerable. Many towns along the coast mainly depend upon this part of the continent for their supply of food. Immense quantities of wheat, hides, tallow, dried beef, cheese, and other articles are shipped from this port, and commerce is rapidly increasing. We have no means of ascertaining the amount of its population; but it is certainly not less than that of the capital, for it was the great mart of Southern Brazil while the country formed an integral part of the empire. Near this town is the fertile island of Maringheiros, which contains some of the highest land and the best cultivated spots in the neighbourhood.

This country, we have said, is chiefly distinguished for cattle-breeding. The proprietors of land are divided into two classes, viz. fazendeiros or farmers, and lavradores or husbandmen. The latter, who breed only what is necessary for their own consumption, possess generally about two square leagues of land; the former will farm from eight to ten leagues, but some of these fazendas are reported to extend to a hundred square leagues, or nearly 600,000

acres. To each three square leagues are allotted four or five thousand head of cattle, six men, and a hundred horses. The proportion of horses will appear a very large one; but it is to be kept in view that, in this pastoral country, they cost nothing in keeping, and even short journeys of half a mile are made on horseback. About one hundred cows are allowed for the supply of milk, butter, cheese, and veal, to a farm of the average size. Hogs, although abundant, are but little valued: sheep might be multiplied to any extent, in consequence of their producing generally two lambs at a birth, but do not appear to attract much attention. Doves of horses and mules are bred to a great extent; the latter are, however, found to be much more profitable than the former, a mule being double the value of a horse. Horses are trained for the exercises of the field, in a manner peculiarly well adapted to fortify them against fear. They are much used in capturing cattle, which, as is the universal custom in South America, is effected by the lasso. Cattle form the grand staple of Rio Grande, and the beef, hides, and tallow which they yield are the chief articles of export. An extensive tract, famous for its fine cattle, is comprehended under the name of Charqueados, derived from the "charqued" beef, which is prepared in this district for exportation. When the cattle are killed and skinned, the flesh is taken off from the sides in one broad piece, something like a fitch of bacon; it is then slightly sprinkled with salt, and dried in the sun. In that state it forms the common food of the peasantry. Some idea of the immense quantity thus prepared may be formed from the fact, that in one year a single individual slaughtered 54,000 head of cattle, and charqued the flesh.

The history of this portion of South America presents little but a gloomy picture of Spanish aggression and Portuguese retaliation. Lying on the confines of Brazil, where the latter bordered on the possessions of Spain, it was convenient for hostile inroad on the part of the latter power; and it was unfortunate for these colonies that the animosities of the mother countries in Europe were communicated across the Atlantic, and perpetually embroiled their settlements, so that the bloody and ever-losing game of war played between the powers was maintained in both hemispheres at once. Into details of mutual hostilities we shall not enter; it is sufficient to state that this country was finally incorporated with the empire of Brazil, and so continued, till its recent assertion of independence. The population of Rio Grande do Sul is estimated at 160,000.