DUMFRIES, the capital of the above county, is a royal burgh of considerable antiquity, although the period at which it became incorporated is not exactly known. During the border wars it was frequently stormed, and the public records were destroyed. The current belief, however, is, that it received its charter before the middle of the eleventh century, as a gravestone was discovered a number of years ago, bearing the date 1079, and mentioning that the individual whose ashes it covered had been conspicuous as a merchant and Burgess of the town. From
this time it gradually increased in importance; and in the year 1307, Edward the Second appointed the estates of Scotland to assemble on the banks of the Nith. In certain chronicles the ancient name of the town is said to have been Cotiac, but this we suspect is mere fancy. It seems much more probable that, like many other places, it derived its name from its physical appearances and character. In remote times the Gaelic was spoken on both sides of the Frith of Forth; and we concur in the etymology of Mr George Chalmers, who conceives the word to be composed of dun a castle, and fries a ridge. Dumfries, which may be regarded as the capital of the south of Scotland, is beautifully situated on the left bank of the river Nith, thirty-five miles below its source, and upwards of ten above the point where its waters mingle with and are lost in the Solway. The Nith in point of size ranks fifth among the rivers of Scotland, and is navigable from Carsethorn to Glencaple quay, even for vessels of considerable burthen. In consequence of the extraordinary manner in which the tides ebb and flow in the Solway during the winter months, the river is similarly affected.
The origin of the town appears to have been owing to a strong castle, which flourished as a border fortress during the twelfth century, and frequently became an object of contention, both prior and subsequent to the times of Wallace and Bruce. Of this stronghold not a vestige remains; but the street occupying the ground on which it stood retains the name, and is likely to do so till the latest ages. In razing what remained of this place of strength, the local authorities, more than a century ago, found materials for building the new church. The Gray Friars, like the castle, attracted settlers; and, as early as the thirteenth century, the old bridge was planned and built at the expense of the Lady Devorgilla, third daughter of Alan, lord of Galloway, and grandmother to John Cumin, who was slain by Robert Bruce in the above-mentioned cathedral in the beginning of the year 1305. Originally it consisted of thirteen arches, and was guarded at the middle by a gate or port, which was removed in 1769, to lessen the central pressure when the structure became frail. This bridge, which still remains, and is crossed every day by foot passengers, was certainly a wonderful erection for the time; and, accordingly, the writer of a work entitled A Journey through Scotland, published by J. Pemberton, London, in 1723, says, "I passed the river Nith from Galloway to Dumfries over a fair stone bridge of thirteen arches, the finest I saw in Britain next to London and Rochester." A right of toll was attached to the bridge, which in 1789, according to Captain Grose, yielded a yearly rental of three hundred pounds, and which at the present day, a little higher up the river, produces to the town five hundred pounds sterling. The new bridge was commenced in 1793, and finished in 1795. The original contract price was £4500, but as no rock could be found at one point, the landstool on the Dumfries side was founded on piles of wood, and for this the commissioners of supply allowed an additional sum of £500.
After Bruce had committed the crime already mentioned, and commenced that career which terminated at last in the redemption of his country from a foreign yoke, he became a mark for the vengeance of Edward of England. His friends and adherents also suffered along with him. Amongst these, Sir Christopher Seaton was betrayed by a pretended friend of the name of Macnab, apprehended at the Castle of Lochore in Fife, marched to Dumfries, and barbarously executed on the Galloway-Hill, a slight eminence on the north-eastern side of the town, better known by the name of the Christell Chapel. Bruce sincerely regretted his fate, and, in the words of Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, said, "It is ane pity that sa noble
ane knight should die sa cruel ane dead." And incontinent in the same place where he was standing when the tidings came to him, garred found a chapel in honour of the Virgin Mary; and, in remembrance of the said Sir Christell, founded a priest to devine service therein perpetually, and pray for the said Sir Christell; and gave to the said priest and his successors the sum of £5 sterling, to be taken of the barony of Carlaverock, for their sustenance." The ruins of the Christell Chapel were visible in the beginning of 1715; but when the Jacobite rebellion broke out in Scotland, the inhabitants of Dumfries hastily constructed a rampart, and during the operation the ruins of the old chapel disappeared, the line of fortification having passed close by their site. It is evident, from the traces of the foundation, that the building must have been very small. When Lord Seroop made an excursion in 1570 for the purpose of plunder, the chief magistrate of Dumfries, at the head of the burgesses, joined Lord Maxwell in opposing the invaders. They fought gallantly, but were unfortunately defeated. Dumfries suffered considerably during the reigns of Charles the First and Second. In 1617 it was visited by James the Sixth whilst returning to England. It was at this period that the incorporated trades received from James what is called the "siller gun," which was ordered to be shot for at stated periods, with the view of fostering their martial spirit, and skill in the exercises performed at the wappinshaw. This relic is still in existence, and the custom is yet observed at the distance of seven or nine years, more as a holiday exercise than for any other purpose. The trades muster in great strength, borrow guns far and wide, spend three fourths of the day in shooting, return to an entertainment in their hall in the evening; and the "siller gun," after being won, is worn for a short period by the best marksman. This festival forms the subject of a poem, written by Mr John Mayne, and which is praised for its humour and spirit in the notes appended to the Lady of the Lake.
Almost no town in Scotland stood forward half so prominently as Dumfries did at the period of the union in 1707. On the 20th of November of the preceding year, according to Chalmers, two hundred Cameronians entered the burgh, issued a manifesto against the great pending measure, and burnt the articles at the market-cross. The last commotion of any consequence occurred in 1715, when the Viscount Kenmare hung on the heights of Tenwald, willing to do mischief, and yet timid as to the means and manner of attack. By a well-managed stratagem he was induced to depart; and this is believed to have been the last occasion on which the ancient war-cry of the town, "Lereburn," or "A Lereburn," was heard.
Dumfries is the seat of a presbytery, synod, sheriff's court, record of sasines, and four banks, branches of the principal companies of Scotland. There are two churches in connection with the establishment, an episcopalian, a catholic, and a number of other chapels supported by dissenters.
In 1745, the Pretender and his rebel army, whilst retreating from England, paid a domiciliary visit to the town of Dumfries; and for a misdemeanour committed against some of his followers on their march southward, the town was compelled to pay a fine, which amounted altogether to £4000 sterling. In 1750, however, the crown granted to Dumfries £2800 out of a forfeited estate.
Hosiery, leather, hats, wooden shoes, and baskets, are the only manufactures worth naming in Dumfries. Cotton checks at one time were woven on speculation in considerable quantities; but the trade has declined. The stocking trade gives employment to about 300 persons, and produces annually not less than £20,000 sterling. The tanning trade, as regards money, is also considerable. An
Dumfries. extensive grazing district is fertile in hides, notwithstanding the great number of bullocks that are driven south; and in good years dressed leather brings a return amounting to about £30,000. Wooden shoes or clogs were long peculiar to Dumfriesshire and the lower part of Galloway; but the trade is increasing, and promotes greatly the health of such as are exposed to outdoor labour. Of these shoes more than £1000 worth are annually disposed of in Dumfries alone.
In the year 1831 the tonnage of Dumfries stood as follows: Foreign vessels inwards 1071 tons, coasting do. 20,463, goods 6320, coal 11,461, and lime 219; income to the commissioners of navigation £870. 12s. 8d. In the same year vessels that cleared outwards paid duty on 5123 tons register, and on goods 2735 tons. Foreign vessels are charged at the rate of sixpence per ton, coasters twopence; goods one shilling and twopence, and lime and coal sixpence. The united income of the commissioners in the year above mentioned amounted to £1072. 17s. 4d. The exports consist chiefly of grain, bark, wool, and hosiery; and the imports of coal, timber, and goods.
The infirmary was built more than fifty years ago, and the hospital or poor-house in 1753. Both are well endowed, though supported partly by subscriptions; and the former expends fully £1000 annually on medicine and other necessary outlays. The infirmary, since the time it was founded, has received in the shape of donations £18,000, and the hospital £6000; and the expenditure of the latter is about £600 annually. In connection with such institutions, it may be noticed that the town was some time since left nearly £100,000 to be employed for charitable purposes. Dumfries possesses an excellent academy, where Greek, Latin, French, English, mathematics, geography, drawing, &c. are taught. It has also a very handsome theatre. In 1825 a gas-work was erected in Dumfries, and has since flourished well. There is a weekly market, which is held on Wednesday, when a great deal of business is transacted.
Since the year 1817, Dumfries has improved rapidly in appearance, although nearly stationary as to population. The High Street, which is broad and spacious, is one continued series of shops, which are nearly as handsome as the same description of buildings in Edinburgh or Glasgow.
St Michael's church-yard attracts the notice of all strangers. It is to a great extent a city of tombs, and has been frequently referred to as the Westminster of Scotland. Many of the monuments are very beautiful; and amongst these there is a sumptuous one over the ashes of the celebrated poet Burns.
The situation of Dumfries is admired by all tourists. With the exception of the point where it dips to the ocean, it is surrounded by a chain of hills, many of which are green to the top, and undulate in a very pleasing manner. In point of latitude, Dumfries is nearly a degree farther south than Edinburgh, and considerably more than a degree in climate. The chilling east winds which prevail so much on the east coast of Scotland are but little felt on the banks of the Nith; and pulmonary complaints, though not unknown, are comparatively unfrequent.
In 1831 the population of Dumfries, burgh and parish, was returned at 11,606 souls, being an increase on the preceding census of 554. Apart from the landward part of the parish, Dumfries contains about 9500 inhabitants. In Troquess, on the opposite side of the river, the present population is 4665; but here again there is a distinction between the burgh and the parish, Maxwelltown containing above 3000 inhabitants, and the country part of Troquess little more than 1000. Both localities are recognized in law, the one being a royal, and the other a burgh of barony of some standing; and as they are merely di-
vided by a running stream spanned by two stone bridges, they may be considered as forming parts of the same town. The population in round numbers is 13,000.