GHAUTS, Western

GHAUTS, Western. This great chain of mountains runs along the peninsula of Hindustan, from Cape Comorin to the Tuptee or Surat river, at the distance of not more than sixty or seventy, and in some places not above forty miles from the western shore of the Indian peninsula, namely, the coasts of Malabar, Canara, &c.; and they are frequently visible from the sea, to which at one point they approach within six miles. By this peculiar configuration of the country all the great rivers of the peninsula of India run down the eastern slope of these mountains into the Bay of Bengal, there not being sufficient space for the collection of any great body of water on the western declivity, which is of greater elevation, and more abrupt in its ascent. The range is generally computed to rise to between 3000 and 4000 feet above the level of the sea. These mountains do not terminate in a point or promontory, but bend eastward in a wavy line parallel to the river, and are afterwards lost among the hills in the neighbourhood of Boorhanpoor. These hills extend about 800 miles in length, with the exception of a break in the ridge about sixteen miles wide, where the river Paniany takes its course from the Coimbetore country to the sea; and here it is well known that ships which navigate the Malabar coast during the north-east monsoons commonly experience a stronger gale in the neighbourhood of Paniany than elsewhere; a circumstance which Major Rennell ascribes to this opening in the Ghaut Mountains.¹ The altitude of this mountain chain is sufficient to intercept the great body of the clouds which are alternately impelled across the continent of India by the south-west and north-east monsoons; and accordingly these winds occasion a rainy season on one side of the mountains only, so that while the periodical rains are deluging the country on one side, the weather is serene and dry on the other. But it is only a particular tract of country that is sheltered from rain by the ridge of the Ghauts; for the clouds do pass over, but at too great a height and too much attenuated to be condensed into rain. At a greater distance, however, they collect into masses, and occasion a rainy season in the countries farther to leeward. Thus, at Nagpoor, in the very centre of India, the seasons differ but little from their usual course in Bengal and on the western side of India. They have a rainy season occasioned by the south-west monsoon, though it is not so violent as in Bengal. At the mouth of the Godavery, and in the neighbourhood, the south-west monsoon occasions a rainy season, when the Godavery is swollen and overflows; and this country is about the same distance to leeward of the Ghauts as Nagpoor. Major Rennell suggests that the clouds which occasion the rainy season at the mouth of the Godavery may come from Cape Comorin, though from the prevalence of west-

erly winds this appears doubtful. But it is certain that the clouds which bring rain at Nagpoor must pass over the Ghauts. Madras lies in the sheltered tract, though at least 300 miles to leeward of the Ghauts. The country near the mouth of the Godavery is about 200 miles more. It would be curious, if we had facts for such a speculation, to trace the limits between wet and dry, and thus to ascertain the influence which this elevated and extensive mountain chain exercises on the climate of the Indian peninsula; but without fuller and more minute information we can scarcely enter into such an inquiry.

The Western Ghauts, about the fifteenth degree of north latitude, although they are steep and stony, are by no means rugged or broken with rocks. On the contrary, in the country near Cutaki the stones are buried in a rich mould, and in many places are not visible until they are dug up. Thus, instead of the naked, sun-burnt, rocky peaks, so common in the eastern chain, these mountains are clothed with stately forests. Dr Buchanan mentions that he had nowhere seen finer trees, nor any bamboos that could be compared to those he saw there. These bamboos compose a large part of the forest; they grow in detached clumps, with open spaces between, and equal in height to the most stately palms, which are also found in great abundance. There is no underwood nor creepers to interrupt the traveller who may choose to wander in any direction through these woods. But there are numerous tigers, which, joined to the unhealthiness of the climate, renders any long stay there uncomfortable. About midway up the mountain the teak becomes common; but it is very inferior in size to other trees. Roads have been formed through these mountains with great labour, out of a bed of loose rock. These roads are ploughed up by torrents during the rainy season, which wash away their softer parts, and leave single rocks of four or five feet diameter standing in the centre. The difficulty formerly experienced in penetrating these mountain passes was very great. In 1791, when the Bombay army was advancing to the Mysore through the Poodicherrim pass, it required two days to draw up twenty light field-pieces two miles, and three weeks to bring up the other artillery to the top of the Ghauts.