PYRENEES

PYRENEES, a mountain chain in the S.W. of Europe, separating France from Spain, and extending from Cape Creux on the Mediterranean, westwards to the neighbourhood of Fuenterrabia on the Bay of Biscay. It lies between N. Lat. 42. 26. and 43. 23., E. Long. 3. 10. and W. 0. 48. Its length is about 270 miles; 3. in the centre, where its width is greatest, it has a breadth of 60 miles. It does not consist of a single chain of heights, but of two parallel ranges about 20 miles distant, connected near the centre by a transverse ridge. It is near the middle of the range that the highest elevations occur; from this point it gradually slopes downwards to either extremity. From the central ridge numerous spurs project, both to the north and to the south; between which lie the principal valleys of the Pyrenees. These valleys do not extend, like those of the Alps, in the direction of the principal chain, but at right angles with it; and they terminate in what are called necks (cols) or gates (portes), where there are frequently passes over the mountains. The length of the valleys varies from 10 to 40 miles, and many of them terminate in vast circular basins called cirques or ondes, surrounded on three sides by steep precipices. The slope of the mountains on the side of France is much more gradual than on the other side. On the former side there are gentle declivities and terraces, which lead down to smooth and verdant meadows; while on the Spanish side the scenery is wild and rugged, and the precipices steep. The principal summits and ridges of the Pyrenees are the following, beginning from the Mediterranean:—

The chain of the Pyrenees has very much the appearance of a huge wall between the two countries which it separates, as the ridge has almost everywhere a height little less than that of the lofty summits. The passes of the mountains are at a much greater height than many of those across the Alps, and they are in consequence much less accessible. Although there are as many as seventy or

eighty passes in the whole range, many of them are both difficult and dangerous, and there are but few practicable for carriages, such as that of the Bidassoa near the Bay of Biscay, and that of the Col de Pertus along the shore of the Mediterranean. The snow-line of the Pyrenees has an elevation of about 9000 feet on the northern slope, and 8000 on the southern; being considerably below that of the Alps. There are numerous glaciers in these mountains, but they are in general of small size and widely removed from each other. They only occupy the higher slopes of the mountains, and not like those of the Alps the deep glens and valleys. The most important of the glaciers are those of Maladetta, Cabridoul, Mont Perdu, Vignemale, and Neouvielle. The most of the glaciers, as well as of the lakes, which are generally of a small size, lie on the French side of the mountains. Numerous streams take their rise in the Pyrenees, but the most of them are small and insignificant. Each of the valleys is traversed by a brook, called in French Gare, in Spanish Gaba, and these again unite to form larger rivers. Those on the north side form the Adour, the Ariège, and the Garonne, flowing into the Bay of Biscay; and the Aude, Gly, Tet, and Tech, into the Mediterranean. Those on the Spanish side, with the exception of the Bidassoa, which falls into the Atlantic, and a few small streams into the Mediterranean, join the Ebro on its left bank. There are many mineral springs, both cold and hot, especially on the French side of the mountains. The principal of these, which are much frequented by visitors, are Bagnères de Luchon, Bagnères de Bigorre, Barège, Cauterets, St Sauveur, Eaux Bonnes, and Eaux Chaudes. In geological formation, the nucleus of the mountains is granitic, and the highest summits of the chain are of this nature. Micaceous schist, limestone, sandstone, oolite, and calcareous strata also occur on the lower slopes; and trap, basalt, porphyry, &c., are scattered about in different places. Iron, copper, zinc, and lead are among the mineral riches of the Pyrenees; but iron is the only one of these that has been profitably worked. The climate of the mountains varies considerably in different parts: towards either extremity the lower elevation of the range, and the vicinity of the sea, renders it more mild than it is in the centre. Vegetation ascends to a higher altitude here than in the Alps; and the immense forests which cover the sides and sometimes the tops of the mountains, not only of firs, but of oaks and beeches, form one of the most characteristic and beautiful features of the Pyrenees. The timber has, however, suffered much from the carelessness and waste of the people of the country. These vast forests are filled with wild animals of many different kinds, the bear, the boar, the wolf, the lynx, and the fox, being among the number. The ibex, an animal like the chamois, but of smaller size, and the wild goat, form a great attraction for the sportsman. The rivers abound in trout, and those that flow into the Atlantic in salmon. The inhabitants of the Pyrenees include several races that are remarkable for their antiquity or peculiarities of dress and manners. At the western extremity, partly in France and partly in Spain, dwell the Basques, the descendants of the ancient Cantabrians, who so stubbornly resisted the Roman arms, and have since kept their position in these mountain fastnesses against all invaders. Further east, on the French side, are the simple and primitive people of Béarn, from among whom Henri IV. sprung; and in the eastern part of the mountains the inhabitants of the French side have much resemblance to the Catalans of Spain. The people on the Spanish side of the Pyrenees are a bold hardy race, living by smuggling and the chase, with an invincible hatred to the French, and forming excellent guerilla soldiers, as has often been proved. The Pyrenees have been the scene of several important historical events. Hannibal crossed them by the Col de Pertus, just before his more celebrated

Pyrenées, Basses. passage of the Alps; and Cæsar afterwards did so at the same place. In 778, Charlemagne, advancing into Spain, crossed by the Pass of Roncesvalles, where he suffered a defeat and lost many of his peers at the hands of the Basque mountaineers. The same pass was again surmounted by an English army under the Black Prince, invading Navarre; and in 1813, after the victory of Vittoria, the British army under Wellington drove the French across the Pyrenees into their own country. It was on this occasion that the battle of Roncesvalles, the assault and capture of St Sebastian, the passage of the Bidassoa and of the Nive, and other actions, took place.

Pyrenées, Basses, a department of France, in the south-western corner of the country, lying between N. Lat. 42. 47. and 43. 35., E. Long. 0. 2. and W. 1. 45.; bounded on the N. by the department of Landes, E. by those of Gers and Hautes-Pyrenées, S. and S.W. by Spain, and N.W. by the Bay of Biscay: length, from E. to W., 88 miles; greatest breadth, 54; area, 2900 square miles. It lies in the lower slopes and at the foot of the Pyrenees, from which it derives its name; and a part of its surface is occupied by the offsets and valleys which extend northwards from these mountains. The department is watered by the streams which rise in the Pyrenees, and flow down these valleys; most of them, except the Nive, and the Bidassoa which rises in Spain, and forms the frontier between the two countries, flow into the Adour. This river, which only washes the department at its N.E. corner, and again at the N.W. near its mouth, receives, among other affluents from Basses-Pyrenées, the Gave de Pau, the Gave d'Oloron, and the Nive. Of these rivers, the Adour, Nive, and Nive, are navigable for some distance above their mouths; but all are employed for floating down timber and other articles almost from their very sources. Though the soil is in general not very remarkable for fertility, the lower valleys are richly productive, and the loftier slopes and mountains, besides their vast and valuable forests, afford excellent pasturage. The hillsides are covered with excellent vineyards, and with plantations of fruit trees. There are, however, some tracts of barren or marshy ground, especially in the N.W. and near the Adour. The climate of the lower regions is temperate and healthy, though very variable; but in the more elevated parts the goutte is not unfrequent. The department is calculated to contain 386,072 acres of arable land, 321,671 acres of wood, 57,266 of vineyards, 163,720 of meadows, and 841,995 of heaths and waste land. Agriculture is in a very backward state, and the produce of corn is not at all adequate to supply the wants of the people. Besides maize, which forms a principal article of food here, wheat and flax are the chief crops raised; while rye, barley, and millet are also grown. The quantity of wine produced in the department is upwards of 6,500,000 gallons annually. Horses, mules, and cattle are raised here in considerable numbers, as well as sheep and pigs; the latter of which supply the much-esteemed hams of Pau and Bayonne. The mineral riches of the country are very great, including iron, salt, marble, alabaster, slate, limestone, and potter's clay, which are worked to some extent. Manufactures have made considerable progress in the country, especially those of linen and woollen stuffs; as well as leather, paper, pottery, hardware, chocolate, and brandy. Ship-building is carried on along the coast, the timber of the forests being excellent for that purpose. The commerce is very active; horses, cattle, hams, hides, wool, wines, brandy, timber, and other produce of the country are exported; while colonial wares, whale and seal oil, &c., are imported. A great deal of trade, chiefly contraband, is carried on with Spain. The department forms the diocese of Bayonne; and besides the places of worship of the established church, contains a Calvinistic church at Orthez,

and several Jewish synagogues. There is at Pau a court of appeal for the three departments of Landes, Hautes, and Basses-Pyrenées; five tribunals of the first instance, and two of commerce, being the other courts of justice in the department. For educational purposes there are a normal school, a college, a lyceum, six superior communal schools, and 914 elementary schools. The capital is Pau, and there are five arrondissements as follows:—

Pyrenées, Hautes, a department of France, lying between N. Lat. 42. 39. and 43. 34., E. Long. 0. 30. and W. 0. 20.; bounded on the W. by the department of Basses-Pyrenées, N. by that of Gers, E. by that of Haute-Garonne, and S. by Spain: length, from N. to S., 48 miles; greatest breadth, 45; area, 1790 square miles. The surface is very mountainous, being almost entirely occupied with the Pyrenees and their branches. In many of the glens and valleys the scenery is of the most sublime and beautiful character. The country slopes gradually towards the north; and a chain of hills running in the same direction separates between the valley of the Adour on the W. and of the Garonne on the E. These rivers receive all the numerous brooks which flow down from the mountains; the chief affluents of Adour being the Gave de Pau, which waters the south-west of the department, and the Arros, which flows northward, and joins it from the E. The Garonne, rising in the valley of Arau, which belongs to Spain, receives from this department the Neste in the south-east, the Gers, and the Baise, which water its north-eastern portion. The principal plain in the Hautes-Pyrenées is that of Bigorre, which lies between two branches of the Pyrenees, and slopes gradually towards the north. With the exception of this plain, there is very little good soil, from the rugged and mountainous character of the country. The pasture grounds, however, are good, and the forests valuable. The extent of arable land is estimated at 235,000 acres; of meadow land, 123,000 acres; of vineyards, 37,000 acres; of wood, 200,000 acres; of waste land, not less than 395,000 acres. The principal crops are maize and wheat, but the quantity produced is insufficient for domestic consumption; of the wine grown, however, there is a surplus for exportation. The climate varies with the varying elevation of the country; but it is on the whole salubrious. On the plain of Bigorre it is mild; but in the higher regions changeable and inclement weather prevails. Besides agriculture, the peasantry are actively employed in pastoral pursuits. Large numbers of horses, which are much valued for cavalry, as well as horned cattle, mules for export into Spain, sheep and pigs, are raised here. Much attention is also paid to poultry, especially geese, and to bees. The mineral wealth of the department is great, including iron, copper, zinc, lead, &c.; but these are only worked to a small extent. Granite, marble, chalk, limestone, and slate, are quarried. Manufacturing industry is not very active here. It consists chiefly in the working of iron, and producing woollen and cotton fabrics, the stuffs called barège (from the town of that name), paper, and leather. There is a considerable trade in timber for ship-building, cattle, salt provisions, cheese, &c. Hautes-Pyrenées forms the diocese of Tarbes, and contains three courts of the first instance, 4 colleges, 4 upper schools, and 768 elementary schools. The capital is Tarbes; and there are three arrondissements as follows:—