LOWER CALIFORNIA is a long narrow peninsula, extending from 22. 48. to 32. 30. N. Lat., and separated from the mainland by the Gulf of California. On the north it is bounded by Upper California, east by the Gulf of California, and on the south and west by the ocean. It is about 700 miles in length, and from 30 to 100 miles in breadth; with an estimated area of about 60,000 square miles, and a population of probably not more than 20,000.
This peninsula is traversed from north to south by a chain of rocky mountains varying in height from 1000 to 5000 feet above the level of the sea. These are entirely destitute of verdure, with the exception of here and there a cluster of briars, small shrubs, or dwarf trees, and some few spots in the ridges where the soil is protected from being washed away by the tornadoes, which every few years sweep over the country with such violence, and bearing with them such floods of rain, that whatever of soil has been in any manner previously formed is swept into the sea. The spots so protected are, if well watered, very fertile; but they are rare and of small extent. The rest of the country is interspersed with extensive tracts of sandy soil nearly as barren and unproductive as its rocky mountains, but near the coast there are some few places which are well adapted for cultivation. Altogether, however, this country is one of the most barren and unattractive to be found in the temperate or hotter regions of the earth. According to Farnham, the products of the soil will never maintain 500,000 people in a state of comfort ordinarily found in the civilized condition.
The scarcity of water is one of the great disadvantages under which this region labours. Like other countries of volcanic origin, the porosity of the rocks allows the water to pass underground to the sea, so that few streams or springs are found in Lower California. From Cape San Lucas, its most southern point, to the mouth of the Colorado, 600 miles, there are only two streams entering the gulf. One of these is the San Josef del Cabo, which passes through the plantations of the mission of the same name, and discharges itself into the bay of San Barnabas. The other is the Mulege, which waters the mission of Santa Rosalia, and enters the gulf in Lat. 27° N. These are not navigable. The streams on the ocean coast are also few and small, none of them being navigable. In the interior are several large springs, which send out copious currents along the rocky beds of their upper courses, but which, on reaching the loose sands and porous rocks of the lower country sink and enter the sea through subterranean channels. There are some tolerable harbours, but these, from the state of the country, are useless except as places of refuge. The country is said to be rich in minerals, but no mines are wrought except the gold and silver mines of San Antonio, in about 24° N. Lat., and even these afford only a trifling supply. Lead is said to be found towards the southern extremity of the peninsula.
The climate is very hot and dry. The rains fall in the winter months, and are very severe, but of short duration. Summer rains seldom occur north of Loreto, in Lat. 26° N. For the space of 20 or 30 leagues from Cape San Lucas,
California. the air is rendered mild and agreeable by the sea-breezes, and the ground in many parts is very fruitful, being watered by numerous little streams from the high lands. Thence to Loreto the heat is excessive, the soil dry and barren, and the surface of the country extremely craggy and forbidding. From Loreto northward the air is more temperate; the water in the mountains sometimes freezes, and the soil though not so rugged and full of rocks, is barren and desolate as that around Loreto. In summer the mean temperature of the country ranges from 60° to 74° Fahr. On the shores of the Pacific the temperature is rendered agreeable by the sea-breezes, and the humidity which they carry with them. On this coast the temperature during summer ranges from 58° to 71° Fahr., and during the rainy season it falls as low as 50°. On the Gulf coast there is a still greater variation; while at the Cape the mercury stands between 60° and 70° degrees, near the head of the Gulf it is down to the freezing point. Violent hurricanes are frequent, but earthquakes seldom occur.
Besides maize, wheat, peas, &c., the few fertile spots of this region produce a variety of fruits, such as grapes, dates, figs, quinces, peaches, pears, and olives. The dates, figs, &c., are preserved; some wine is made; and a kind of spirit is distilled from the mescal. The cattle are numerous, and feed in part on the leaves of the musquito, a species of acacia. Wolves, foxes, deer, goats, several lizards and scorpions, are among the wild animals. Pearls, tortoiseshell, a few hides, dried fruits, dried beef, cheese, soap, &c., constitute its exports, and are mostly sent to San Blas, Mazatlan, and Guayamas, in small coasting vessels. The imports are provisions, clothing, agricultural and domestic utensils, supplies for the ceremonies of the church, and a small amount of the ordinary luxuries of life.
Though the land is thus barren and unproductive, the sea is stored with an incredible abundance and variety of fish. Among these may be mentioned the halibut, salmon, turbot, skate, pilchard, mackerel, sole, lobster, cod, anchovy, and pearl-oyster. The immense beds of pearl-oysters in the gulf have long been a source of attraction to adventurers, and employ several hundreds of Indian divers.
The peninsula of Lower California was discovered by Hernandez de Grijalva in 1534, but no settlement was made by the Spaniards till about the end of the next century, when some Jesuits established themselves there with the view of converting the natives. Loreto, the capital, and the other towns, were founded by the Jesuits, who instructed the natives in agriculture, and persuaded many of them to adopt fixed habitations.