CARDIGANSHIRE

CARDIGANSHIRE, a maritime county in South Wales, is bounded on the north by Merioneth; on the east by Montgomery, Radnor, and Brecon; on the south by Caernarvon and Pembrokeshire; and on the west by the Irish Sea. Its greatest length from south to north is about 30 miles, and its greatest breadth from east to west about 40 miles; but these dimensions give a very imperfect idea of its size, as it almost exactly represents in figure a "half boot," the line of the sole being from east to west, with the toe at the extreme west. It possesses an area of 693 square miles, or 443,387 acres, and is therefore the fifth in size of the Welsh counties.

The whole area of this county is occupied by the lower Silurian geological formation. It does not therefore possess mines of coal, or iron, or limestone; but, as if to compensate for this want, it is the richest of all the Welsh counties in its metalliferous lodes. Its lead mines have long been famous; and it was from the profits of his mining speculations, carried on chiefly in this county, that the celebrated Sir Hugh Myddleton was enabled to carry out his gigantic project for supplying London with water, by means of the New River, which he introduced. The Lisburne, Goginian, Cwrn Ystwith, and other mines still yield largely, and have been sources of great profit to the adventurers. Some of the lead raised is very rich in silver; and in the seventeenth century the quantity of silver obtained was so considerable, that a mint existed for coining it on the spot, by virtue of letters-patent.

Cardiganshire is exceedingly wild and mountainous; but the mountains generally have little of grandeur in their character, and present rather the appearance of a sea of rounded hills, intersected here and there by a valley of greater depth and extent than usual. There is a considerable tract of flat land lying along the sea coast, especially towards the S.W.; but the general aspect of the county is so dreary and desolate, that it has been called, and with good reason, the desert of Wales. In that district it is almost possible to pass in a straight line for 30 miles without seeing a house, or a road, or a human being. The principal mountains are Plynlimon, just within the county boundary on the N.E., rising to the height of 2463 feet, and Tregaron mountain, near Tregaron, in the S.E., 1747 feet in height. Few of the others exceed 1000 feet in elevation. According to well-authenticated tradition, a great portion of what is now the bay of Cardigan was at one time dry land, protected from the incursions of the sea by dikes and dams, similar to those in use at the present time in Holland. It is generally believed that this district was very fertile, and contained no less than 16 towns; and that it was submerged in the year A.D. 520. At low water, remains of apparently artificial structures are still pointed out, as proofs of the truth of the tradition.

The scenery of the vale of Teifi presents views of great beauty and interest, especially as it approaches the sea. There are some fine old ruins on its banks, amongst others those of Kilgerran Castle, near Cardigan, which heighten the interest of the otherwise romantic scenery. The valleys of the Aeron, the Ystwith, and the Rheidol, also present scenes of great beauty, especially the latter, in which is the famous Devil's Bridge, with the falls of the Rheidol, one of the most celebrated pieces of Welsh scenery.

This county abounds in lakes and rivers. The chief of the latter is the Teifi, which rises in a lake of the same name (Llyn Teifi), about 8 miles N.E. of Tregaron; and flowing through the centre of the county, in a N.W. direction, till it reaches Lampeter, becomes from thence the

county boundary, separating it from Caermarthen and Pembroke shires; and after a course of about 50 miles from its source, falls into the sea at Cardigan. The Aeron takes its rise in some lakes in a low range of hills called Mynydd Beck, and first flowing in a southerly direction, and afterwards nearly due west, falls into the sea at Aberaeron. The Ystwith and Rheidol both rise in Plymlymon, and flowing west, cross the county, falling into the sea at Aberystwith; and the Towyn forms the county boundary, separating it from Brecknockshire on the S.E. Besides these streams there are a great number of minor importance.

Cardiganshire has been called the lake county of Wales, an appellation which it well deserves. The most important are Llyn Teifi, Llyn Fyrddyn Fawr, Llyn Egnant, Llyn Gynon, and Llyn Eiddwen; but hardly any of them exceeds three-quarters of a mile in length. They abound in trout, and are now a good deal resorted to by anglers.

There are numerous British and Roman antiquities in this county, consisting of Druidical circles, camps, and stations, and also the remains of a Roman road (the Sarn Helen), about 4 miles from Tregaron.

The climate on the coast is mild and salubrious, but suffers from an excess of rain. The climate of the hill country is cold, wet, and bleak. The cultivated crops consist of wheat, oats, barley, turnips, and potatoes; and in the lower districts on the coast, especially in the neighbourhood of Aberaeron, Llanrhystyd, and Cardigan, good crops are raised; and at the latter, as well as at Lampeter, great improvements are now being effected by means of the government drainage bill, in draining and improving several large estates. The hill district is entirely occupied with wild heathy pastures, which are stocked with the small mountain sheep of the country, and with herds of ponies and cattle, which are annually drafted off by dealers to be fattened in the more fertile districts of Wales or England. Cardiganshire has long been famous for its breed of horses, and for these high prices are obtained from English dealers, who now visit the fairs in considerable numbers. Black cattle, sheep, pigs, butter, barley, oats, woollen manufactures, slates, and lead and lead ore, form the principal articles of export. The farmers are generally a very ignorant, but hardworking and industrious race. In no county of Wales is the blood of the Cymry to be found so unalloyed by any foreign admixture; and it may well be doubted whether the manners and customs, or agricultural practice of the more remote districts, have undergone any change or improvement over those practised in the same districts centuries ago. Some of the sheep farms are of great extent. It is calculated that one-half only of the lands are inclosed.

There is no railway as yet in this county, although a line from Caermarthen to Cardigan has been surveyed, and will probably be shortly formed. There is generally a coach during the summer months every alternate day from Caermarthen to Aberystwith, through Lampeter, and every day from Caermarthen to Cardigan; which are the only public conveyances the county possesses.

The principal towns are, Cardigan, Aberaeron, at which, in consequence of its central situation, the county sessions are held, Aberystwith, Llanbadarn Fawr, Tregaron, Lampeter, and Adpar; which last is the name given to the portion of Newcastle Emlyn, on the Cardigan side of the Teifi. The county returns one member to parliament, and has done so since 1536. The political influence is divided between the families of Powell of Nanters (conservative), and Pryse Loveden of Gogerthian (liberal), one of whom usually sits for the county, and the other for the district. Constituency in 1852, 2235. The average gross rental of the county is estimated at 7s. 5d. per acre. The annual value of real property paying income tax is £205,328.

The population of the county by the last census was

70,796, giving an average of 102 persons to a square mile, or 63 acres to each person. Of the total number, 32,961 were males, and 37,835 females, showing a great disproportion of the sexes, in the great excess of females, a state of population which prevails only in two other of the Welsh counties, Pembroke and Caermarthen. It may be perhaps accounted for by the emigration of men to the mining districts, especially Glamorganshire, where the excess of males would just balance the deficiency in the three counties named. The number of inhabited houses in 1851 was 14,978, uninhabited 544, and building 70, giving an average of 22 inhabited houses to a square mile, and 47 persons to each house. The following table gives the census returns for the last 50 years:—

It is calculated that the condition of about one-fourth of the whole population is that of labourers, servants, &c. About thirteen per cent. live by agriculture, and about eight per cent. by trade, while upwards of 2000 persons possess independent means, and about 400 follow professions.

In 1847 the total number of children of the working classes at day schools within the county was 3885. The total number of schools was 101, of which 37 were church or national, with 1643 scholars; 49 private or adventure, with 1617 scholars; 2 British schools, with 136 scholars; 5 dissenting, with 307 scholars; and 8 dame schools, with 182 scholars. The average annual income of each school was only £25. 0s. 4d., and the average annual income of the teachers, from all sources, only £23. 16s. 7d. The total number of Sunday schools was 206; of which 55 were Church of England schools, with 4074 scholars; 18 Baptist, with 2025 scholars; 70 Calvinistic Methodist, with 13,776 scholars; 44 Independent, with 5483 scholars; and 19 Wesleyan Methodist, with 1773 scholars. In 159 of those schools instruction was given in the Welsh language only; in 10 in the English language only; and in 37 in both tongues. It is calculated that not more than 3000 of the whole population of the county use the English language, there being upwards of 67,000 who habitually use the Welsh language.

The women in Cardiganshire all dress in the picturesque costume of Wales, and have their heads surmounted by the high-crowned broad-brimmed hat. Some of the customs are curious. On the occasion of a marriage, a biddar goes from house to house inviting the inmates to the wedding. It is expected that all the guests are to bring presents of money and provisions. The marriage always takes place on a Saturday; but the guests assemble on Friday with their presents. All these are set down on paper, that, if demanded, they may be repaid; but this seldom happens. The furnishing of the bride is also brought home on this day. On Saturday ten or twenty of the man's friends who are best mounted go to demand the bride. She is placed on a horse, behind her father, who rides off as fast as he can. He is soon, however, overtaken. Presents continue to be received on Saturday and Sunday, and on Monday they are sold, and sometimes realize with the money received £50 or £60.

This was one of the counties involved in the singular disturbances known as the Rebecca riots.

It is in the diocese of St David's; and at Lampeter there is a college for the education of the Welsh clergy.