ABERDEENSHIRE

ABERDEENSHIRE, a county in Scotland, situate in the north-east, between 56. 52. and 57. 42. north latitude, and between 1. 49. and 3. 48. of longitude west from Greenwich. It is bounded by the German Ocean on the north and east; by the counties of Kincardine, Forfar, and Perth, on the south; and by those of Inverness and Banff on the west. Its greatest length is 87, and breadth 36 miles; with a circuit of about 200 miles, of which 60 are on the sea-coast. It has an area of 1985 square miles, or 1,270,740 acres, of which somewhat more than one-third is under cultivation; and contains 83 parishes, with parts of six others. This county is popularly divided into five districts. First, Marr, which is a mountainous district, particularly Braemar, the highland part of it; and is much frequented by tourists, on account of its wild and majestic beauties. Ben Macdubai, the highest mountain in Scotland, rises here to the height of 4299 feet, and in the vicinity are Cairntoul, Ben Avon, and Cairngorum, which attain respectively the height of 4245, 3967, and 4050 feet. The last is famous for a peculiar kind of rock crystals, known as Cairngorum stones. A few miles below Braemar is "dark Lochnagar," which rises to the height of 3800 feet. Second, Formartin, of which the land on the sea-coast is low and fertile; but hills and mosses are spread over the interior. Third, Buchan, the most extensive division next to Marr, having a bold precipitous shore of 50 miles, but generally a flat surface, the soil of which has been greatly improved. The Bullers of Buchan, about 6 miles south from Peterhead, is a natural curiosity, which has been often described by tourists. Fourth, Garioch, a large and beautiful valley, naturally very fertile. Before the

Aberdeen-introduction of modern husbandry, it was termed the granary of Aberdeen. Fifth, Strathbogie, the greater part of which consists of hills, mosses, and moors. On a comprehensive review, it may be said, that, with the exception of the low grounds of Buchan, and the highlands of the south-west division, Aberdeenshire consists for the most part of tracts nearly level, but often bleak, naked and unfertile, though interspersed with many rich spots in a high state of cultivation. In extent, it is very nearly one-sixteenth part of Scotland.

The chief mineral wealth of the county is its granite, for which it has long been famous, and which has brought considerable sums into the county, besides supplying the inhabitants with excellent stones for building and other purposes. As many stones have been raised from an acre of land under preparation for tillage, as brought from L.30 to L.50, for paving the streets of London. The exportation of granite to the capital employed at one time about 70 vessels of 7000 tons, and 400 men; and the value of all the stones exported yearly was stated at L.40,000. The quantity exported in 1852, was 38,595 tons. Gneiss, grauwacke, and old red sandstone, are also abundant; limestone, basalt, trap, and clay-slate, are found in various parts; sandstone, and millstone are quarried at Aberdeen, slate at Culsmond and Lambhills; blacklead has been found near Huntly; and there is a manganese quarry in the vicinity of Aberdeen.

The principal rivers are the Dee and the Don. The Ythan and Ugie within the county, and the Deveron and Bogie on its boundaries, are also considerable streams. Mussels are plentiful near the mouth of the Ythan; and pearl mussels have been sometimes discovered at its lower extremity. One of the jewels of the ancient crown of Scotland, a valuable pearl, is said to have been found here. There are also several lakes well stored with pike, trout, eels, and other kinds of fish. The county is noted for its chalybeate springs at Peterhead, Fraserburgh, and at Pananich on the Dee, near Ballater.

The climate of Aberdeenshire, except in the mountainous districts, is rendered comparatively mild by its being bounded on two sides by the sea. The winters are not so severe as in some of the southern counties, but the springs are late, owing to the prevalence of easterly winds; and in autumn the weather is often wet and stormy. Wheat, however, and all the other crops cultivated in Scotland, come to perfection; and the inhabitants, who are not subject to any organic diseases, sometimes live to a great age.

The district of Marr, containing almost half the county, abounds in natural woods, which are a source of wealth to their proprietors, and of profitable employment to the inhabitants. This county is so well adapted to the growth of trees, that it is only necessary to shut out the cattle by inclosures, and the birds and winds supply it with seeds that soon rise into vigorous plants. These woods consist chiefly of Scotch fir; and the timber, especially what grows in the forests of Braemar, has been thought superior to any that Scotland has imported from the north of Europe. About a tenth part of the whole surface of the county is under wood; and the trees found in the peat mosses indicate the existence of still more extensive forests in former ages. The forests abound in deer and grouse; and partridges, and other kinds of game, are plentiful in all the higher parts of the county.

Ruins of ancient edifices are seen in different parts of the county. In the Garioch district, on the summit of a conical hill called Dun-i-deer, are the remains of a castle, supposed to be about 700 years old. They stand within a still older vitrified wall, which encircles the summit of the hill, and formed a British fort of unascertainable antiquity. Such

forts would seem to have been rather places of temporary refuge than of permanent residence. The ruins of two buildings, supposed to have belonged to Malcolm Canmore, King of Scotland, are still pointed out. One of them, situate at Castletown of Braemar, was his hunting seat; the other stands in a small island in the Loch of Kinnoir. A wooden bridge, which connected it with the land, has been found in the lake. The castle of Kildrummy, which in 1150 was the property of David Earl of Huntingdon, must have been a princely edifice, covering nearly an acre of ground; and its venerable remains still show the power and grandeur of the chieftains by whom it was inhabited. In the same district are some ancient subterranean retreats, supposed to have been used by the Picts as places of refuge from an invading enemy.

The agriculture of Aberdeenshire has been very greatly improved of late years: potatoes, turnips, and clover, as well as wheat and other crops, are now cultivated according to the best courses of modern husbandry. Farms, however, are still generally of a small size, compared with those of the south-eastern counties; and the buildings, though much improved, are for the most part less convenient and comfortable. Here, as in every other part of Scotland, a lease for nineteen years is the most common bond of connection between the landholder and farmer.

In most parts of Aberdeenshire, cattle are a more important object to the tenant than corn. Great numbers of cattle are now sent to London, the annual value of which is estimated at L.360,000. The whole value of agricultural exports is estimated at L.750,000 a-year. The productive qualities of the county have been greatly enhanced by general drainage, and the introduction of bone-dust and guano. Of the former, there were imported in 1852, 3861 tons, and of the latter, 5508 tons. During the same year, there were exported, of oats, barley, and bear, 56,132 quarters; of butter, 2568 cwt.; eggs, 7273 barrel-bulk; pork, 6950 cwt.; sheep and lambs, 5240. About two-thirds of the population depend entirely on agriculture; oatmeal, prepared in different ways, is the principal food of the labouring classes.

The sea-fishing employs a number of hands. The Greenland whale-fishery is carried on by ships fitted out from Peterhead and Aberdeen.

The old staple manufacture, the knitting of stockings, has declined greatly for many years; but those in wool, cotton, and flax, are upon an extensive scale, and employ a large proportion of the inhabitants. There are also establishments for making sail-cloth, twine, paper, &c.; and, from the characteristic ingenuity and enterprise of the people, Aberdeenshire has been gradually assuming a high rank among the manufacturing counties of Britain.

A share of our foreign trade, chiefly with the north of Europe, has been long enjoyed by this county; and the recent improvements on the harbour of Aberdeen must contribute essentially to the extension of its commerce. In 1807 a canal was opened from the harbour of Aberdeen to the town of Inverury, a distance of 18½ miles, the expense of which was about L.44,000. The facilities which this canal affords for the conveyance of coal, lime, and the excellent stone so abundant in the tract of country through which it is cut, have already proved highly beneficial to the agriculture of the county, as also to the prosperity of Aberdeen; but it will be superseded by the North of Scotland Railway.

The valued rent of the county is L.235,665, 8s. 11d. Scots; but the real rent for the lands and houses is probably not less than L.800,000 sterling.

The principal seats in Aberdeenshire are, Aboyne Castle, the Earl of Aboyne; Haddo House, the Earl of Aberdeen; Huntly Lodge, the Duke of Richmond; Keith Hall, the

Aberdour Earl of Kintore; Marr Lodge, the Earl of Fife; Philorth House, Lord Saltoun; Strichen, Lord Lovat; Castle Forbes, Lord Forbes; Skene House, Duff; Slaines Castle, the Earl of Errol. Her Majesty has lately purchased, from the Fife trustees, the lands and house of Balmoral, in the parish of Crathie, Braemar, which is the residence of the Court for a few weeks towards the end of summer. This year (1853) will see the commencement of a palace, every way suitable for "the royal dwelling." The prevailing names among the proprietors are, Gordon, Forbes, Grant, Fraser, Duff, and Farquharson. The county has four parliamentary burghs, which, with their respective populations in 1851, are as follows: Aberdeen, 71,945; Peterhead, 7,242; Inverury, 2,264; and Kintore, 476. The first returns a member to parliament, and the other three are contributory burghs to Elgin. The county also sends a member to parliament. The parliamentary constituency is 4022. Besides a sheriff, the county has two sheriffs-substitute, one at Aberdeen, the other at Peterhead; and circuit courts are held at Tarland, Inverury, Huntly, Turriff, Old Deer, and Fraserburgh. There are about 450 schools in the county, and, along with Banff and Elgin, it participates in Dick's bequest for parish schools. Five miles from Aberdeen, on the river Dee, is the Roman Catholic College of Blairs. By the census of 1851, there were 32,110 inhabited houses, 768 uninhabited, and 179 buildings. In that census the county is divided into eight districts, with populations as under.