NGAMI, a lake of Southern Africa, lying between S. Lat. 20. 23. and 20. 40.; E. Long. 22. 30. and 24. Reports of the existence of this lake had been received a long time before it was actually reached by European travellers; it occurs on Portuguese maps as early as 1508; and its position was laid down with considerable accuracy nearly twenty years before it was visited by Livingston, Murray, and Oswell, July 28, 1849. They approached it from the south, having crossed the Kalahari Desert, which had for a long time presented an insuperable obstacle to any attempts to explore the country in this direction. Four years afterwards the lake was again reached by Mr Anderson, who, following a course which had been formerly deemed impracticable, started from Walvisch Bay, on the W. coast of Africa, arrived at the western end of the Ngami, and then travelled round a great part of its banks. The discovery is of very great interest and importance, not only because it enlarges our knowledge of the geography and natural history of the interior of Africa, but also as it may tend to open up those hitherto inaccessible regions to the influences of commerce, civilization, and religion. The lake is known by the natives under various names, derived from its different characteristics, such as Inghate, or the "Giraffe;" Noka ea Mokorón, or the "Lake of Boats;" &c.; but that which has been adopted by Europeans is Ngami, which signifies "The Waters." Its size was at first somewhat over-estimated, on account of the low and almost undistinguishable character of part of its banks, and in consequence of the original discoverers having mistaken its length for its breadth. It extends from E. to W., having a length of about 40 miles, a breadth at the widest part of 10, and an average breadth of 8 miles. Its circumference is about 70 or 80 miles, and its area about 295 square miles. Its shape is somewhat like that of a pair of spectacles, being narrow in the middle and spreading out at each end to a considerable width. Its northern bank is lined by a low and sandy tract of country, entirely destitute of vegetation. This region has a breadth of about a mile, beyond which distance the country is thickly wooded with various kinds of acacia and other trees, among which the enormous baobab is here and there seen raising its head
Ngami. above the forest. The southern and western shores are considerably higher; and the water is bordered by strips of ground so thickly covered with reeds and rushes as to admit of access to the lake only at a few points. The water is very shallow at the western end of the lake; but the depth is more considerable towards the eastern extremity. A remarkable peculiarity of the waters of the Ngami is, that they are subject to a regular ebb and flow every twenty-four hours. The ebb takes place during the night, when the wind that prevails during the day entirely falls, but in the morning the waters return to their original position. This curious phenomenon has been supposed to depend on the wind. Lake Ngami is fed by the Teoge, which enters it from the N.W., and discharges into it a considerable volume of water during the time of its annual rise, which occurs in June, July, and August, and sometimes later. This river has not as yet been explored to any great distance; but it is believed to be of great length, rising probably near the sources of the Coanza and other large rivers. Its course is very circuitous, and it is said to be wider further up than it is near the lake. During the time of flood its depth is considerable; and it has been navigated with canoes for about 65 miles from the lake. An outlet to the waters of the lake is furnished at its eastern extremity by the broad and gently-flowing river Zouga, which pursues an easterly course for about 300 miles, and is then lost in an immense sandy marsh, though it has been supposed by some that it pursues its course underground, and finally discharges itself into the Indian Ocean. A branch of the Teoge is said to join this river, and at some seasons of the year to force back its waters to the lake. The scenery along the Zouga is extremely beautiful, and the thick and luxuriant forests in many places extend to the very edge of the water. To the west of the Teoge two other rivers are reported to exist, one of which is small, and loses itself in the sand; while the other flows parallel to the Teoge, but in an opposite direction, and joins the Cunene, a river which falls into the Atlantic. By this latter river it is probable navigation might be established from the sea-coast to the fertile land in the interior. A great number of wild animals are found in the neighbourhood of the lake, of which the elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo, giraffe, and antelope, are the principal. Hippopotami are numerous, especially at the north-western extremity of the lake; and the rivers and lake abound in otters and crocodiles. The birds of this region are also many and various, including many species of ducks and geese, herons, storks, cranes, &c. The inhabitants of the lake country are called Batoana, and form a small tribe of the large and powerful family of the Bechuanas, who are widely spread throughout Southern Africa. This tribe, however, is not aboriginal in this district, but has only recently settled here, having conquered and reduced to slavery the original inhabitants, who called themselves Bayeye, or "men;" but are styled by the Batoana, Bakoba, or "serfs," in consequence of their condition. The appearance of the Batoana is handsome; but the women are generally short and stout, and they encumber themselves with numerous strings of beads, and with iron, brass, and copper rings on their arms and legs. They smear their bodies with grease and red ochre, which they conceive to be a much superior practice to washing themselves. They are extremely fond of snuff, and indulge much, especially the women, in the habit of smoking. The principal occupations of the men are, war, hunting, and the making of skins and furs into garments; while to the women are left the more arduous tasks of building the house, cultivating the ground, preparing the corn, and rearing the family. They are not deficient in intelligence, but this for the most part takes the form of deceitfulness and cunning; and though outwardly they are frank and well-behaved, this arises rather from their
habits of politeness and etiquette than from real kindness of disposition. They are much given to revenge, but easily appeased by presents. The prevailing vice among this people is theft, and even their chiefs are not safe from their pilfering propensities. They have no religion, nor any notions of a Supreme Being; but they believe implicitly in wizards, and especially in the "rain-makers," although they frequently put them to death, when disappointed in their expectations. The government is monarchical and patriarchal, each tribe being governed by a chief, who resides in the principal town, and has under him several inferior chiefs at the head of the smaller towns and villages. These inferior chieftains maintain a check on the power of the king, which is in other respects despotic. They assemble in meetings called picor, where speeches are often heard of considerable ability and even eloquence. The principal town of the Batoana tribe is situated at the east end of the lake, on the north bank of the Zouga. The principal articles of commerce that have yet been found in the lake district are hides and furs of different sorts, ostrich feathers, rhinoceros' horns, and ivory; while the natives demand in exchange beads and ammunition, but especially the latter. (See Lake Ngami; or, Explorations and Discoveries during Four Years' Wandering in the Wilds of South-Western Africa, by Charles John Anderson, London, 1856; and Livingston's Travels and Memoirs.)