FINLAND

FINLAND, called by the natives Suomenmaa, the Region of Lakes or Swamps, is a government of Russia, comprising, besides the old Swedish province of Finland, the two Lapmarks of Kemi and Tornio, and the district of Wiborg. It lies between N. Lat. 59. 50. and 70. 6., and E. Long. 20. 30. and 32. 45., being bounded on the N. by Norwegian Finnmark, by Sweden W. and the Gulf of Bothnia, S. by the Gulf of Finland, and E. by the governments of St Petersburg, Olonetz, and Archangel. It is about 730 miles

in length from N. to S., with an average breadth of about 185 miles. The sea-coast of Finland throughout its entire extent presents the same succession of fiords and rocky headlands as characterize the whole seaward frontier of Sweden and Norway. The fiords of Finland, however, are far more limited than those to the west of the Gulf of Bothnia, and seldom exceed a few miles in extent, although their mouths contain an equal number of islands, some of which, as the isles of Sveaborg, have been converted into fortresses of great strength. The coasts of the Bothnia and Finland Gulfs are thickly strewn with rocks of granite and limestone, presenting in some places a labyrinthine archipelago of little islands, rendering the navigation extremely dangerous. The greater portion of the interior is a vast table-land averaging in height from 400 to 600 feet, and interspersed with hills of no great elevation. In the north, however, are the Manselka Mountains, which attain a height of nearly 4000 feet, and stretch southward, though with several interruptions, until they terminate in lofty cliffs on the Gulf of Bothnia. The great mass of the mountains is composed of red granite, and vast quantities of the same rock lie in boulders on the lower grounds, and prove a very serious obstacle to their cultivation. Many of the heights are bare, but the greater part of them being of moderate elevation are covered with forests chiefly of pine; and in combination with the vast number of lakes inclosed by their bases, often form very romantic scenery. The extensive forests are sometimes devastated by the tempests of winter, which seem to find access to their very centres in tornadoes, tearing up by the roots or bending and snapping the largest pines. Frequently also ravages are committed in them by conflagrations occasioned often through the carelessness of the peasants. The interior of Finland is also intersected and broken up by a vast number of lakes, throwing out winding arms and branches in all directions, which, while they offer the greatest facilities for inland navigation, render land travelling circuitous and dangerous. Many of the high roads pass over islands on these lakes, the natural strength of whose situation has been taken advantage of, to cover them with batteries; and some of them, as at Wiborg and Nyslot, are considered impregnable, save to fraud or famine. The principal of these lakes are Ladoga, the greater portion of which belongs to this government; Lake Saima, which is crowded with islands and discharges its superfluous waters in a series of cataracts into Lake Ladoga, but which is now connected by means of a canal with the Gulf of Finland near Wiborg; and Lake Enara in the extreme north, covering above 1000 square miles, and having its outlet in the Frozen Ocean. The chief rivers are the Uleä, which is navigated by trading vessels though its stream is very rapid; the Cano which passes Biørneborg; the Aurajoki which at Abo is about 100 yards broad; the Kymen which flows into the middle of the Gulf of Finland; and the Tornio which discharges itself at the northern extremity of the Gulf of Bothnia, and forms the present boundary between Sweden and Russia. The climate varies much according to the locality. In Lapmark, in the north, it is polar somewhat modified, and the sun disappears during December and January. Further south at Uleäborg, winter begins in October and continues to May, to which month spring is limited. Summer commences in June and lasts three months, which are generally so hot and dry that the crops, particularly where the soil is of a sandy nature, often suffer from drought. The autumn, like the spring, is confined to one month, and may be said to commence and terminate in September. Even in summer the nights are cold, particularly about the middle of August. During summer, however, the progress of vegetation is remarkably rapid; and there have been instances of grain being sown and reaped in six weeks. In the more southern parts the climate is less severe; the winter being of five or six

Finland. months' duration. Dense fogs are frequent, and heavy rains take place in autumn. The soil is for the most part stony or sandy; but notwithstanding this it is much more productive then the opposite part of the Scandinavian peninsula, and when in the possession of Sweden it was termed the granary of that country. The principal crops are barley and rye, but owing to the nature of the surface and climate a large portion of the land is fit only for pasture. In the north, where vegetation is almost confined to the growth of moss and lichen, other domestic animals are superseded by the reindeer, of which great herds are kept. In addition to timber (chiefly fir), large quantities of potash, pitch, and rosin are obtained, and form the principal articles of export. The mineral productions are chiefly confined to iron, lead, sulphur, slate, and granite. The first is only wrought to a limited extent for the supply of a few furnaces; wrought iron being now principally imported from Sweden. A great number of excellent granite quarries have been opened, chiefly on the borders of the lakes or sea-coasts to secure the advantage of water carriage. From these are obtained blocks of extraordinary magnitude and beauty, which are employed for architectural and artistic purposes. One of the finest specimens is the monolith obelisk recently erected in St Petersburg to the Emperor Alexander. In its rough state it was 12 feet in diameter, and 80 feet in length. The manufactures of Finland are insignificant. Agriculture, the rearing of cattle, and fishing are the principal occupations of the inhabitants. The coasts present many good harbours, but on account of the long winter they cannot be extensively used. In winter sledges afford an easy and rapid communication with different parts, and even with Sweden across the Gulf of Bothnia. In March 1809, Barclay de Tolly crossed over with a division of the Russian army from Vasa to Umeå in Sweden.

From official documents the returns of the trade of Finland for the year 1848 were in silver rubles of the value of about 3s. 2d., as follows:—

Showing an excess in the imports over the exports of 476,816 rubles, which, however, was in part covered by the freight earned by the merchant shipping. The above statements indicate a falling off as compared with former years in the export trade to Norway and Sweden. To these two countries the leading articles of export and their value were—fish 23,569 rubles; hides 8616; beef 24,578; grain 15,083; tallow 30,809; tar 11,483; firewood 11,483. The imports were—books 16,200 rubles; fish 25,228; iron and steel 250,870; sugar 66,418; tobacco 4677; dye-woods and stuffs 23,990. The exports to other countries were also less than in former years; the chief articles were—potash 16,733 rubles; butter 183,409; tar 324,717; wood and timber 921,360. The chief imports from other countries were—medicines 20,914 rubles; cotton 138,318; arrack, rum, brandy, 169,794; coffee 597,708; fruits 106,042; dye-stuffs 134,550; yarn 349,933; iron and steel 89,709; salt 531,665; sugar 544,485; wine 140,528; manufactures 666,145.

In 1831 Finland was divided administratively into eight circles or lins, which are sub-divided into fogderier or dis-

tricts and herads or bailiwicks. There is a distinct establishment at St Petersburg for the government of this vast province. The governor-general, who resides at Helsingfors, has the superintendence of the military affairs. Finland has a diet composed of the four orders of the nobility, clergy, citizens, and peasantry, and a code of laws and judicial system similar to that of Sweden, but the diet is rarely convoked, except to consent to the imposition of fresh taxes, a senate more recently established having replaced it in the exercise of its functions. The regiments raised in Finland are not promiscuously intermixed with the general forces of the Russian empire; and their fleet, by far the best manned portion of the Russian navy, forms a distinct squadron under the Finnish flag. None but a native Finlander can hold any office of trust in the country. Almost all the inhabitants are Lutherans under the bishops of Abo and Borgo, except in the circle of Wiborg, where they belong to the Russian Church. Public education is in a very backward state. At Helsingfors is a university, transferred from Abo in 1828; and all the towns have schools, but there is a great deficiency of country schools. The majority of the inhabitants are Fins, who call themselves Suomalans or Suomes, but they are denominated Tschudes by the Russians. They are of middle height, robust, flat-faced, with prominent cheek-bones, light, reddish, or yellowish-brown hair, gray eyes, little beard, and a dull sallow complexion. They are courageous, hospitable, and honest, but obstinate in the extreme, indolent, dirty, and it is said revengful. Their customs and habits have been handed down from time immemorial, and their costume forcibly bears out the supposition of their being of oriental origin. The peasants wear long loose robes of a coarse woolen manufacture, secured by a silken cincture like the kummerbund of the Mussulmans. The eight lins with their areas and populations are as follows, commencing from the south and east:—

The chief towns of Finland are Helsingfors the present capital, Abo the former capital, Wiborg, Tavastehuus, Vasa, Uleaborg, and Tornea. The Fins were Pagans living under their own independent kings till the twelfth century, about the middle of which Finland was conquered by the Swedes, who introduced Christianity. The province of Wiborg was seized by Peter the Great in 1721, and the remainder of the country was annexed by conquest to the Russian dominions in 1809.—(Athenæum, 18th March 1854.)