ANDALUCIA

ANDALUCIA, an extensive region in the south of Spain, on the Mediterranean Sea. It is divided into eight provinces, viz., Almería, Granada, Jaén, Málaga, Cádiz, Córdoba, Huelva, and Sevilla. Though its surface is very unequal, and its soil and climate vary with the elevations of the land, it must be considered the most rich and delightful of all the divisions of the peninsula.

The geographical denomination should strictly be confined to the ancient kingdoms of Sevilla and Córdoba, divided into High and Low Andalusia; but the name is now generally extended so as to include also the kingdoms of Jaén and Granada. This will comprehend all the beautiful and picturesque south of Spain, from Lat. 30. 42. to Lat. 36. N., and between Long. 1. 45. and Long. 7. 15. W. It is bounded on the north by the chain of the Sierra Morena; on the east by the Sierras of Segura and Cazorla, and partly by the Mediterranean; on the south by the Mediterranean, the Straits of Gibraltar, and the Atlantic; and on the west by Portugal. Its area is computed at 3283 square leagues. It is divided into numerous valleys of varied extent by mountain arms that traverse it in many directions. Some of these are shaggy with wood, others are denuded of vegetation, while some of the loftier mountains are partially covered with perennial snow, which is a luxury highly prized by the inhabitants during their fervid summers. On many occasions we have found the heat in the shade ranging from 86° to 96° Fahr.; but this temperature is abated by refreshing sea breezes along its extensive coasts. The winter is so mild that the nightingale continues its song in the groves throughout the year, and if ever a flake of snow descends on the plains, it melts almost on touching the ground. Many of the less elevated mountains are clothed with vines, which produce an abundant supply of delicious wines; or they are covered with excellent pasture.

In the bowels of the mountains the Carthaginians and the Romans sought for silver, and found gold in some of the streams. Valuable mines of argentiferous galena, and some copper ores are now wrought; and no country abounds more in beautiful marbles and serpentine. These are much used in the decorations of the churches.

The principal river of Andalusia is the Guadalquivir, with its numerous affluents. It rises in the Mountains of Jaén on the confines of Murcia, and traverses Andalusia in a south-west direction, passing by the cities of Andujar, Córdoba, Palma, and Sevilla, and falls into the sea at San Lucar.

Its principal affluents have various names, as the Río Huelva, Río Bjar, and Río Guadiato, from the north-west; from the south-east the Darro and the Genil, which water the lovely Vega or plain of Granada; while the Río Gaudix, Río Guadal, Río Guadalmar, and Río Corbones, flow into the Guadalquivir in other directions. Besides these, the noble stream of the Guadiana washes a part of its western frontier.

The minor rivers of this fine province that flow directly into the sea are as follows, commencing on the west side: the Río Tinto, falling into the sea at Huesca; Río Guadalete, at Santa María; Río Barbate, into the Bay of Trafal-

gar; Río Guadranque, into the Bay of Gibraltar; Río Verde, near Marbella; Río Guadaljore, near Málaga; Río Guadalpo, at Motril; Río Adra, Río Almería, and Río Almanzora, falling into the Mediterranean.

The mountains in Andalusia are the Sierra Bermeja and its branches, which, with Sierra Blanquilla, constitute part of the larger sierras of Ronda, Filabres, Bujo, Javal, Cohol; the sierras of Leita, Quesada, and Torres in Jaén, which unite with the Sierra Morena and Sierra Segura; the sierras of the Alpujarras, between the Sierra Nevada and the Sierra of Gador, with the sierras of Contraviesa, and Cazorla; Susiana and Constantina.

When the traveller descends from the table-land of New Castile into Andalusia, he suddenly feels that he has entered a very different climate. The temperature of the air, the total change in vegetable forms, almost indicate a tropical region, especially as he approaches the coast. The more common European plants there give place to the wild olive, the caper bush, the aloe (agave), the cactus, the evergreen oak, and fragrant groves of orange and lemon trees; while the place of furze and heaths is supplied by the astragalus lignosus, and the prickly palmated leaves of chamaerops humilis; and in a few places he may behold the graceful form of the date-palm depicted on a sky of the serenest blue. On the coasts of the Mediterranean, about Marbella and Málaga, the sugar-cane is successfully cultivated; and no inconsiderable quantity of silk is produced in the same regions. The sides of the hills are often covered with extensive vineyards; and the ill-cultivated and generally uncultivated plains wave with luxuriant crops of wheat, or are green with immense fields of melons cultivated with the plough. The horses and bulls of Andalusia are celebrated all over Spain; sheep and swine are extensively bred, and game is abundant.

The general statistics of Andalusia will be best seen by reference to the two adjoined tables, drawn up by Don Pascual Madoz, for his Diccionario Geográfico-Estadístico-Histórico de España, a valuable and laborious work published at Madrid in 1847.

By this table the population of all Andalusia amounts to 2,305,950: the "ratable riches" to about L.3,706,000 sterling, and the contributions levied on it to L.933,000.

The natives of Andalusia are a lively people, given to pleasure, and of a very ardent imagination, superstitious, boastful, and unwarlike, but ready-witted and good-humoured. Their forms are not tall, but they are vigorous and well-made, generally with jet black hair, dark eyes, and a skin less fair than the natives of Aragon and the north of Spain. The women are considered as the handsomest in all the peninsula, with most brilliant eyes, and very graceful figures. The dialect spoken in Andalusia is said by Castilians to retain something of the Arabesque, in the use of certain words that are not reckoned pure Castilian or Spanish, and in a greater profusion of gutturals than is used in the central provinces; circumstances not to be wondered at, when we reflect that for seven centuries the Arabians were the dominant race in Andalusia.

The original population of this region is supposed to have been from Mauritania. We know that its advantageous position for commerce, its general products, and its mines, early attracted the adventurous merchants of Tyre and Carthage to its shores; and it became an important possession to the Phoenicians and Carthaginians until it was wrested from the latter by the Romans. Before that period it had many flourishing cities; as Gades, Emerita, Hispalis, Corduba, Malaca, and Cartea. From the Romans it passed successively to the Visigoths, the Arabs, and the present Spanish race.

For the civil history of this province, see SPAIN.