PAISLEY

PAISLEY, the principal town of Renfrewshire, Scotland, is finely situated on the banks of the White Cart, about 3 miles S. of the River Clyde. The ancient and principal part of the town occupies the summit and slopes of a beautiful declivity, the eastern base of which is washed by the

Paisley, river, which divides the burgh into two parts, that on the east side being styled the New Town, from its more recent erection. Paisley is generally considered as the ancient Vanduarra of Ptolemy, and as having been a Roman town or station during the presence of these invaders in the northern part of Scotland. As late as the beginning of the last century, considerable vestiges remained of a Roman camp on the western side of the hill on which Paisley is built; but these have long since been obliterated by the progressive extension and improvement of the town. The latitude of Paisley is 55. 51. N., and the longitude 4. 26. W. The climate is temperate, but humid. In former times infectious diseases were of rather frequent occurrence. In 1645 a pestilence committed great ravages in this place; and in 1765 dysentery prevailed to an alarming extent. In 1771 pleurisy carried off numbers of the inhabitants; and virulent influenza has visited it at various times. Paisley, however, has never been considered unhealthy; and the registrar-general's returns for the years 1855, 1856, and 1857, show, that in regard to mortality it occupies a medium position among the large towns of Scotland. During these years the rate of mortality in Paisley has not been so high as in Greenock or Glasgow; it has been very nearly the same as in Dundee, and it has been higher than in Aberdeen or Edinburgh.

Whether the Roman town or station called Vanduarra was a place of any size or importance is unknown. A cloud overhangs the history of Paisley till about the year 1163, when Walter, the first Stewart, founded a monastery on the eastern bank of the Cart, opposite to what is now termed the Old Town of Paisley. At this period there does not appear to have been a village or hamlet, however small, in existence; but the protection which the monastery afforded in those rude times, and the multitude of pilgrims, travellers, and persons of distinction who frequented it, gradually induced a population to assemble in its vicinity; and a village of some extent made its appearance on the western bank of the river, and began slowly to clamber up the gentle slope of the hill on that side. In 1220 the monastery was elevated to the dignity of an abbey, and many valuable privileges were subsequently conferred upon it by the Pope, and by its founder and successive patrons. Its jurisdiction and revenues were very extensive, extending to, and being derived from, localities at a great distance; its abbots were commonly men of the highest family connections, and appear frequently as prominent actors on the stage of Scottish civil and ecclesiastical history. After the Reformation, the revenues and privileges of this ecclesiastical establishment were bestowed upon Lord Claud Hamilton, and have since become the property, though greatly reduced, of the noble family of Abercorn. A considerable part of the ancient abbey still remains, and is in excellent preservation. The skeleton of a beautiful window, 35 feet in height by 18 in breadth, almost the only fragment of the more ancient part of the building, has been much admired for its size, lightness, and fine proportions. The external architecture of the remaining portion is perhaps scarcely equal to that of some other ecclesiastical edifices in Scotland; but the appearance of the nave, which is occupied as a parish church, is grand and striking in no ordinary degree; and some few fragmentary remains of the old monastery exhibit fine specimens of the purest Gothic. Before the accession of the Stuart family to the throne of Scotland, their burying-place was in the abbey; and even after that event two of its members were interred there, viz., the queen of Robert II., in 1387, and Robert III., in 1406. The tomb of Marjory Bruce, daughter of Robert I., is still to be seen in the famous sounding aisle, now occupied as a burial-vault by the Abercorn family.

Notwithstanding the wealth and manufacturing importance of Paisley, it is only a burgh of barony; but its privi-

leges are so very considerable as almost to equal those of a royal burgh. Previously to 1770 the burgh had a voice in the election of a member of Parliament for the county. Now, by the Scottish Reform Act, Paisley sends a member to represent it in Parliament. The constituency in 1857 was 1349. Formerly the government of the town was vested in a provost, three bailies, and seventeen councillors; but by the Scottish Burgh Reform Act there are now a provost, four bailies, a treasurer, and ten councillors.

In 1553 John Hamilton, the last abbot, conveyed by a deed the revenues and privileges of the abbey to Lord Claud Hamilton, then a child of ten years of age. He was afterwards deprived of the latter on account of his adherence to the fortunes of Queen Mary; but in 1591 they were restored, with the title of Lord Paisley. In 1653 the second Earl of Abercorn disposed of his interest in the abbey to the Dundonald family; and in 1658 the magistrates and council purchased this superiority. Since that time Paisley has held directly of the crown. In 1857 the real annual rent of all the property within the burgh was £99,628.

The topography of Paisley and its vicinity is not very remarkable. Previously to the year 1736 the whole of this district was included in one parish, known by the name of the parish of Paisley; but since that time the burgh has been divided into three parishes—the High, the Middle, and the Low. The Abbey parish now comprehends the New Town, which, with a trifling exception, is separated from the burgh by the River Cart, and the populous villages of Johnstone, Elderslie, Thorn, Quarrelton, Nithill, Huriet, and Dovecot Hall, with the country districts. To the north, and affording a noble view from the eminence on which Old Paisley is chiefly built, extends the great plain of the lower valley of the Clyde, anciently called Strathgriffie. On the south the Gleniffer, or Paisley Braes, distant about 3 miles, swell gently up to the height of 760 feet above the surface of the Cart. The soil is of a mixed character, but in many places rich and fertile. From the heights just mentioned descend a variety of minor streams, of great utility to the agriculturist and manufacturer, and adding to the richness and beauty of the scenery. The surface of the country in the neighbourhood, with the exception of that to the north, which is flat, is agreeably diversified, and broken into gentle swells and soft declivities, which, with the mixture of gentlemen's seats, farm-houses, bleaching-fields, and other public works, confers a picturesque and animated character upon the entire vicinage. Valuable minerals abound in the parish, such as coal, limestone of the coal formation, and ironstone. In the strath to the north-west of the town, extending towards Linwood, valuable blackband ironstone has recently been discovered, and is now being extensively worked by Messrs Merry and Cunningham, and others. A great mining population is rapidly collecting in that district. There are also very extensive coal-pits wrought in the neighbourhood, chiefly at Johnstone; and in that vicinity, and at Huriet, the chemical works of the Messrs Wilson and others are on a very large scale. Very fine freestone is also obtained in the neighbourhood.

As it is chiefly, however, to its being one of the principal manufacturing stations in the kingdom that Paisley owes its celebrity, we shall now present a brief sketch of the history, progressive improvement and increase, and present extent of its principal manufactures. There is no certain account as to the precise period when the art of weaving was introduced. It appears, however, that the manufacture of linen was carried on to a considerable extent during the last century. Shortly after the Union the spirit of manufacturing enterprise sprang up in the west of Scotland, and Paisley was not slow in availing itself of the general impulse. Craufurd, describing the state of Paisley in 1710,

Paisley. observes:—"That which renders this place considerable is its trade of linen and muslin, where there is a great weekly sale in its markets of those sorts of cloth, many of the inhabitants being chiefly employed in that sort of manufacture." From 1744 to 1784 the linen manufacture increased in amount from L.18,886, 15s. 10d. to no less than L.184,385, 16s. 6d. About the year 1722 the manufacture of linen thread was introduced into Paisley, and carried on to a large extent. For several years it reached the amount of L.100,000 annually. Cotton thread, having superseded that made from linen yarn, is manufactured to a very considerable extent, and forms one of the principal manufactures of the place. Besides the establishment of the Messrs Coats, which is said to be the most extensive, the most valuable, and the most magnificent of the kind in the world, there are now about ten others, some of which are very extensive. The value of the thread annually manufactured in Paisley at the beginning of the present century was estimated at L.60,000. It is now about L.400,000. In 1760 silk gauze began to be manufactured in Paisley; and in a short time the skill and ability with which this manufacture was prosecuted caused its abandonment by the manufacturers of Spittalfields, the original seat of the silk manufacture in Great Britain. This manufacture flourished extensively until near the close of the last century. From 1772 there existed also a considerable manufacture of ribbons and other articles in silk. In 1744 the value of the manufactures of Paisley was L.579,185, and in 1769 it amounted to L.660,385. In 1744 only 867 looms were employed in the weaving of linen; and forty years afterwards no fewer than 5000 looms were engaged in the manufacture of silk, the produce of which amounted to L.350,000.

Towards the end of last century the making of silk goods declined rapidly; but a new species of manufacture sprang up, which has since been carried to a much greater extent. The manufacture of shawls, of cotton, silk, and fancy woollen fabrics, has now become the staple trade of Paisley. In little more than forty years after its introduction (in 1834) this manufacture produced about a million sterling; and since then it has increased considerably.

Previously to the present century fine shawls had been manufactured in this country chiefly at Norwich and Stockport in England, where they were made in imitation of the rich India shawls. The latter, from their high price, were beyond the reach of all but a few wealthy individuals, when the manufacturing skill and enterprise of Paisley embarked in the manufacture, and, by successive inventions and improvements in the loom, and in the kind and quality of the materials, prosecuted for a long series of years, succeeded in realizing a nearly perfect imitation of those oriental fabrics in colours, texture, and design, and at a mere fraction of the cost. Besides the extraordinary cheapness, the variety of new and beautiful fabrics and designs which have been introduced into the shawl manufacture have largely contributed to its extent and success. The manufacture of shawls is almost wholly confined to Paisley; but a considerable proportion of these find their way to the Glasgow markets for home and foreign sale. The kinds produced are various in quality and cost, and there is a great variety in the styles and fabrics. Some are wholly made of silk, but these are not now much in demand; others of silk and cotton, and a great many of Persian and fancy wools mixed with both or either. Thibet cloth shawls, a very rich and fanciful fabric; Chenille shawls, a beautiful imitation of silk velvet; Canton crape shawls; and various other and newer kinds, of every possible variety in size, texture, pattern, and price, are produced from the looms of Paisley, with a rapidity and abundance which, whilst it tends occasionally to overload the market, affords satisfactory evidence of the manufacturing skill and re-

sources of Paisley. The present annual amount of the trade and manufactures of Paisley has been roughly calculated at nearly two millions sterling. To give anything like a view of the various inventions and improvements in the art of weaving, by means of which Paisley has attained its present eminence as a chief seat of the silk and cotton manufactures in Scotland, would swell this article beyond all due bounds. The hasty sketch which we have supplied affords some general data to the reader, who may consult, if he wishes for more minute information, Wilson's Survey of Renfrewshire; Craufurd's Description of the Shire of Renfrew, with Robertson's continuation; and the New Statistical Account of Scotland. The spinning of cotton yarn is also extensively carried on by Paisley manufacturers in the town and parish, but there are no data to be relied on for ascertaining its annual amount. Bleaching and dyeing, as might be expected, are prosecuted to a very considerable extent. Soap-making is a trade of some antiquity and importance; and malting, the distillation of raw spirits, and silk-throwing, have also a considerable capital embarked in them. Owing to the frequent and severe depressions that have recently occurred in connection with the weaving trade of Paisley, a considerable number of those formerly engaged in that line have transferred their industry to other employments. By this means some branches of business, formerly existing in the town, have been very much extended, and others entirely new have been introduced. Among the branches thus increased or introduced, the principal are the thread manufacture already mentioned, shawl-printing, soap-making, iron-founding, engineering, and iron ship-building.

Thursday is the market-day in Paisley, and there are four fairs annually, which last three days each. The races at St James' Day Fair were long well known in the west of Scotland, and attracted great numbers from the surrounding districts. For many years they were much frequented by the sporting world; but after the close of the races, on the last day of the sport in August 1857, a serious and disgraceful riot occurred on the course. A number of the inhabitants memorialized the burgh trustees, and the provost and magistrates, against the continuance of the races. After several meetings, the burgh trustees and the town council agreed to discontinue the races. The grounds, including the course, were let for agricultural purposes; and the Paisley race-course, one of the best in the kingdom, is now a ploughed field.

Paisley is abundantly supplied with the means of external communication. The Glasgow and Greenock, and the Glasgow and South-Western railways, both pass through it. There is a railway to the Clyde near Renfrew; and although the Glasgow, Paisley, and Johnstone Canal has ceased to carry passengers, it is still available, and largely used, for the conveyance of goods.

The yearly returns of the post-office show the growing prosperity of Paisley. In 1720 the amount was only L.28, 13s.; 1769, L.223, 3s. 8d.; 1809, L.2814, 17s. 4d.; 1834, L.3194. Since the introduction of the penny postage, the delivery of letters from the Paisley post-office has risen to about 676,000 in a year. In the money-order department there are about 14,000 transactions in a year.

The river Cart is navigable to Paisley for vessels of from 60 to 80 tons burthen. The river dues in 1835 amounted to L.260, and at the present time they are about L.600.

Paisley is well supplied with the means of religious instruction. There are 8 congregations in connection with the Church of Scotland, 6 with the Free Church, 6 with the United Presbyterian Church, and about 16 of various other denominations. There is, therefore, on an average, one congregation for every 1350 of the burghal population. The number of scholars attending the different sabbath schools in Paisley during the year 1857 amounted to 6614.

The grammar school of Paisley was established by King James VI. The charter of erection is dated "at Halie-ruide House," 2d January 1576, but the oldest date on the tablet in front of the building is 1588. Besides the grammar school, there are three other burgh schools, and a number of private or adventure schools. Within the last few years large sums have become available for the education of the poor. The late John Neilson bequeathed a sum for this purpose, which is supposed to have accumulated to about £30,000. He died in 1839; and the school was opened in 1852. Other sums of smaller amount have been bequeathed for similar purposes. At present, active preparations are being made for opening an institution for reclaiming youthful offenders. The late Miss Kibble, some years ago, bequeathed for that purpose a sum now amounting to £10,000. The Educational Association supports several schools which supply education to a great number of pupils at a very cheap rate; and the Ragged School furnishes a home and education to the houseless and the destitute. Hutcheson's Charity, though possessed of very scanty means, gives gratuitous education to a large number of children; the General Session educates gratuitously 100 pupils; and several of the congregations support schools in which education is given either gratuitously or at nominal fees, in some cases as low as one penny a week. In addition to all this, the Committee of Privy Council on Education have at different times granted considerable sums to assist in building school-houses; and large sums are annually received from the same source to supplement teachers' salaries, and to pay for pupil teachers for the education of the poor. The amount received in Paisley in 1857 for these purposes, together with the sum required for reducing the price of school-books, could scarcely be less than £1000. In future years this sum will be very considerably increased.

The town is well lighted with gas, and there is an abundant supply of excellent water, collected from the neighbouring heights in two large reservoirs, from which it is conveyed into the town by gravitation. The assessment for the poor in the three town parishes for the year ending May 1858 was £5200; and in the Abbey parish for the same year the assessment was £5000.

There are few public buildings of importance in Paisley. Besides the Abbey, may be mentioned St George's parish church, the Free High church, the Episcopal church, and also the Oakshaw Street and Abbey Close United Presbyterian churches. The county buildings are of considerable extent and elegance, in the castellated style; and the news-room at the Cross is also a handsome building. The John Neilson Institution is in itself a very fine building, and occupying, as it does, by far the best situation in Paisley, it appears to great advantage. There are three bridges over the Cart, connecting the Old and the New Town of Paisley, but none of them is remarkable. The most important public charity in Paisley is the infirmary, supported by voluntary subscriptions.

The civil history of Paisley affords little to interest or deserve the attention of the general reader. Its ecclesiastical history is curious and interesting, but supplies few points sufficiently salient and compact to be entered upon in so brief a sketch. The famous "Black Book of Paisley," which was long supposed to have been a history of Paisley and its monastery, has been ascertained to be the Scotichronicon of Fordun, a monk of the fourteenth century. The inhabitants of Paisley early embraced the doctrines of the Reformation, notwithstanding the naturally adverse influences of the great monastic establishment; and displayed their attachment to these on various occasions during the civil wars and prelatial persecutions of the seventeenth century. In 1715 and 1745 they showed equal zeal for the House of Brunswick; and the burgh had to pay a fine of £500 to the Young Chevalier at the latter period,

as a composition for its anti-Jacobite predilections. The magistrates afterwards memorialized government for compensation, but they never obtained it. In 1597 the queen of James VI. honoured the inhabitants with a visit to their town, when it would appear that the royal entertainment fell so heavy on the burgh funds, that in 1617, when her royal consort also visited it, the civic dignitaries prudently forbore so costly a welcome, but in lieu thereof employed "a prettie boy, a son of a Sir James Semple of Beltees," to make him a speech, which was judiciously spiced for James's royal ear.

In 1695 the population of the town of Paisley, exclusively of the Abbey parish, where there were then very few houses, was only 2200. In 1755, sixty years after, it amounted in the town and Abbey parish to 6799; and in 1781 to 11,100 in the town alone, the population of the Abbey parish not being given in the register. In 1791 the total population was 24,592; 1801, 31,179; 1811, 36,722; 1821, 47,003; 1831, 57,466; 1841, 60,487; 1851, 60,332. In 1851 the population of the parliamentary burgh was 48,026; and in 1858 the same was estimated at 48,302.