PERTH-SHIRE, one of the most extensive and beautiful counties in Scotland, is almost circular in form, and occupying nearly the centre of the kingdom. Its extreme length from E. to W. is about 70 miles, and its greatest breadth from N. to S. is about 66 miles. Its area is given at 2835 square miles, of which more than 50 are of water. Of the 1,814,063 acres forming its superficial contents, 267,397 were returned in 1857 as under tillage. Many
acres are under wood; and a vast extent of highland country affords grazing, pasture, and preserves for game; while only a small proportion of the county can be said to be wholly barren and unproductive. On the E. Perthshire is bounded by the counties of Forfar, Fife, and Kinross; on the N. by Inverness and Aberdeen; on the S. by Stirling and Clackmannan; and on the W. by the shires of Argyll and Dumfries. Its ancient and still popularly-known divisions are—Monteith, Athole, Strathearn, Breadalbane, Rannoch, Stormont, Perth proper, and Gowrie, to which some add Balquhidder and Glenorchy. It is under the jurisdiction of a sheriff and two substitutes, one of whom resides at Perth, and the other at Dunblane. There are within its boundaries seventy-eight parishes, or portions of parishes, some of them running into other adjacent counties.
Perthshire is distinguished amongst the counties of Scotland for the rich, varied, and picturesque beauty of its surface. From the commanding range of the Grampians, and numerous other secondary elevations, the country slopes gently down into extensive tracts of rich and fertile land, beautifully diversified, and adorned with wood and water, hill and dale, in every possible combination. Where the elevated ranges gradually disappear in the champaign country, nothing can exceed the rich and undulating character of the scenery, broken into noble and irregular valleys, or spreading out into extensive alluvial tracts, watered by streams of almost every size and character. The county of Perth is now generally divided into the Highland and Lowland divisions, the surface of the former being far more extensive than that of the latter. The fertile or Lowland districts lie chiefly, but by no means entirely, towards the eastern and the southern boundaries of the county. The fine valley of Strathearn, having the Grampian range on the N.W., with the Ochils and Sidlaw Hills on the E., traverses it from N.E. to S.W., and, including certain portions of the contiguous valleys of the Tay and the Almond, forms one the richest and most extensive tracts in the kingdom. Besides the extensive valley of Strathearn, there are others of considerable dimensions studded with lakes, and enlivened with streams of every variety of character. Perthshire is likewise distinguished for its noble ranges of mountains, some of which attain a considerable elevation. The highest is Ben Lawers, 3992 feet; Ben More is 3818; Cairn Gower, 3690; and Schehallion, 3613. This last mountain is distinguished by its fine conoidal outline. Benledi rises to the height of 2381 feet; Ben Ardlanach to that of 3500; and Ben Venu to that of 3300; besides many others of considerable though inferior altitude.
The lakes and rivers of this county are numerous. The largest of the lakes are feeders to the Tay, the watershed of the Glen Tilt mountains bounding the county on the N., and that of the Moor of Rannoch on the W. The principal lakes that feed the Tay are lochs Tay, Ericht, Rannoch, Tummel, Lydoch, Garry, Lyon, and Dochart, besides a great number of smaller lakes, the most part of which are situated in the district of Rannoch. The chief streams whose waters find their way into Tay are the Tummel, the Garry, the Lyon, the Lochy, the Dochart, the Braan, the Isla, the Ericht, and the Almond. The highest of these lakes is Loch Ericht, but only about a third of it is in Perthshire. The next highest in point of situation is Loch Lydoch; and the other lakes lying in the Moor of Rannoch. All these lakes and streams abound in fish, some of them containing trout of a very fine quality; and where no natural obstruction exists, salmon ascend almost to their source. The river Tay is the principal river, and is said to discharge more water into the ocean than any river in Britain. Another great drain of the water which falls in this county is the river Earn, which rises in Loch Earn, and falls into the estuary of the Tay a few miles above Newburgh. The streams that fall into this river are numerous, but none of them are of any great size. The river Forth is the boundary of the county on the S., and the lakes and streams that empty themselves into it are numerous and of considerable size; the principal lochs are Voil, Lubnaig, Katrine, Auchray, Vennachir, Ard, and Monteith. Salmon are got in considerable numbers both in the Forth and Earn;
but owing to the want of protection to the spawning fish, and the constant destruction of the young fish in the parr state, they are yearly decreasing, especially in the Forth and its tributaries.
The Tay is a noble river, and the beautiful scenery through which it flows, with its crystal waters running over its gravel bed, and the great volume of water which it is continually carrying to the sea, entitles it to be called the finest river in Scotland. Loch Tay is about 16 miles long, and fully a mile broad, and lies nearly E. and W.; the rivers Lochy and Dochart discharge their waters into it at its head, the village of Killin being between the two streams. The scenery here is of the finest description; and also for 8 miles up Glen Lochy. Salmon ascend the Lochy as far as the falls of Boreland; and for 10 miles farther up the glen the river is well stocked with native trout. The river Dochart is a sluggish stream, but a good angling river. Salmon may be taken in the spring months, and its pearl fishery is well known.
Loch Tay contains salmon, the common trout, and pike. The annual rental of the Marquis of Breadalbane for the salmon-fishery has been, since 1828, £50. Some very fine fish are taken with the net, during the months of February and March, at Kenmore, where the river Tay issues from the loch. The Lyon river, which joins the Tay a little above Weem, is one of the most inviting streams in the county both for the tourist and angler. It flows out of Loch Lyon, and after running for one-half of its length through a hilly and grazing country, it enters a finely-wooded gorge in the mountains, from which it emerges a little above Fortingal. There are some of the finest beech trees here to be seen in Scotland. This glen is almost unknown to tourists, as, like Glen Lochy, it has no outlet. Loch Lyon is full of very fine trout, and even salmon reach the loch, and have been caught in it. Loch Ericht is the largest lake in the county, and is so deep that the greater part of it never freezes, notwithstanding its high situation; and during the heat of summer its water feels intensely cold, while in winter it is warm. During severe frosts its surface is enveloped in vapour, from the water giving out its caloric. This lake is full of the finest trout, especially at its S.W. end, where it is shallow. The only kinds of fish in its waters are S. fario and S. feror; the latter are more abundant than in any other lake in the county. The scenery is of the wildest and grandest description. Ben Alder rises up perpendicular from the lake to the height of nearly 4000 feet; and a cave overhanging the lake is pointed out where "Prince Charlie" hid himself for a season.
Loch Lydoch, in Rannoch Moor, is a beautiful sheet of water about 6 miles long, and has an island covered with trees, upon which the sea eagles build; and fact the only trees to be found in the moor are around this lake. It abounds with trout; and so does the river Gair, that flows from it into Loch Rannoch. This lake, which receives also the waters of Loch Ericht, is 11½ miles long by 1½ broad, and has more the appearance of a lowland than a Highland lake. On the N. side its shores are clothed with native birch; and on the S. side there are still many miles of the old black wood of Rannoch, which contains some of the finest natural Scotch fir trees in the country. The lake is well stored with an excellent kind of trout, not inferior to Loch Leven, which cut up as red as sea trout; besides feror and S. salvelinus or charr. This is a fine lake for the angler, and liberty can easily be obtained to fish it. The river Tummel flows from this lake at Kinloch-Rannoch, and falls into Loch Tummel. Along this part of its course the country around is strewed with rounded boulders to an extent that is hardly conceivable. The scenery around the lake is equal to any in the county; the view from Allane of the lake, the strath, and Rannoch mountains, is very fine. A few miles after leaving the lake the river rushes over the rocky barrier which forms the falls of Tummel. Salmon can ascend no higher than this, and a net is suspended to catch those that make the attempt; which fishing has been regularly let. If a few pounds were spent in blasting the rock, the breeding-ground of the salmon would be greatly enlarged, but this would subject the upper proprietors to close time, which many of them would not like. The Tummel is joined by the Garry near Faskally, at the mouth of the far-famed Pass of Killiekrannie, and after flowing 10 miles, it joins the Tay near Logieralt. Loch Tummel contains fine large trout, although they are not numerous, as the lake is also stocked with pike, which have never found their way to any of the lakes farther up. The river Garry flows from the lake of the same name near Dalnaspidal. It is a picturesque, brawling stream, and has some salmon in its pools, but its native trout are small.
The Braan river, which enters the Tay at Inver, near Dunkeld, is for the greater part of its course rapid, and flows from Loch Frenchie, near Amuiree. This lake is a favourite resort of the angler, but the trouts are not large. The river Isla empties itself into the Tay at Mickleour. It rises in Glen Isla in Forfarshire, and is a rapid-running stream until it enters Strathmore, when its current for miles is hardly perceptible. Trout are numerous in
its waters, and salmon were once so; but pike and eel are very plenty, and the want of sufficient protection to the breeding fish has rendered the salmon-fishing of little value. The Ericht, a picturesque small stream which flows into the Isla a little below Blairgowrie, was not many years ago famous for its salmon; but its waters are so poisoned by public works, and the ascent of the salmon obstructed by dam-dykes, that very few fish are now to be found in it.
The Almond river enters the Tay a little above Perth, but so much of its volume of water is abstracted to supply the neighbouring printfields and mills, that very little of it enters the Tay by its natural channel. Salmon, however, find their way up when the water is in flood; and by the lowering of the fall at Buchaty in Glen Almond, the fish find a great amount of additional spawning-ground in the Sma' Glen.
The river Tay issues from Loch Tay as a large stream, and at once enters and runs through the fine grounds of the Marquis of Breadalbane. Having received the waters of the Lyon a little above Weem, it flows on smoothly until it has to encounter the rocky chasm at Grantully, where there are some fine salmon pools. At Logieralt its stream is increased by the junction of the Tummel, which river sends as much water to the ocean as the Tay; still, at the meeting of the waters the Tay appears to be very little increased in volume. A few miles above Dunkeld it enters the grounds of the Duke of Atholl; and no river scenery can be finer than what is met with here. The salmon-fishing is very good, but his grace reserves the whole to himself. The view from the bridge of Dunkeld arrests the attention of the tourist; and the scenery on the banks of the river, as it flows through Marthly grounds, is inferior to none in its course. Having reached Mickleour, where it is joined by the Isla, it runs more swiftly, being confined between steep banks, until it rushes over the Linn of Campsie at Stobhall. This fall, when the water is low, may be about 3 feet in height; but when the water is high, no fall is perceptible. The late Professor Anderson of St Andrews stated, in a paper which he read before the Literary and Antiquarian Society of Perth, that after examining the ground with care, it was his opinion that, previous to the river bursting this barrier, its waters followed the course of the Isla through Strathmore, and entered the sea at Montrose or Lunnan Bay. The old bed of the river can yet be distinctly traced in many places; and the numerous lakes still in existence along the old channel bear evidence to the professor's theory. It is a singular fact that a number of Stormontfield-marked grise have been caught in Lunnan Bay. After passing the linn, the river has to pass over the most rugged part of its whole course, the fall being 28 feet in the distance of half a mile. This fall in the river has been taken advantage of for the purpose of driving the machinery of the large cotton-mills at Stanley, which were originally erected by the celebrated Arkwright. Opposite these mills, the lade that supplies the Stormontfield bleaching-works is taken off the river; and a little farther down, the lade that supplies the Luncarty bleaching-field is taken off. A little farther down a remarkable dyke of trap crosses the river, called the Thistle Brig; this trap dyke is very similar to that at the Linn. The whole of the rocks in this gorge, from the junction of the Isla with the Tay to this bridge, are of the old red sandstone formation. About a mile farther down the river are the Stormontfield salmon rearing-ponds, which have thrown so much light on the natural history of the salmon. (See article FISHERIES.) At the junction of the Almond with the Tay, about 2 miles above Perth, the action of the tidal wave ends, the river rising at spring-tides little more than half an inch. At low-water there is a gentle current from Perth bridge to Newburgh, the fall being about 8 feet. The Tay below Perth is surpassed in beauty by no river in the kingdom. Kinnoull Hill, and the castle and the grounds of Kinfans, are fine features in the landscape on the one side; while on the other are the venerable ruins of Elcho Castle, and Moncrieff Hill. Six miles below Dundee the Tay enters the German Ocean.
Before closing the description of this fine river, a few words will be necessary upon its salmon-fisheries. The net-fishing for salmon and sea-trout on this river is of considerable importance in a national point of view, not only from the quantity, but from the quality of the fish. Until the year 1828, the net-fishing closed on the 26th August; but after that time an act was obtained which altered the time for closing to the 14th of September. The whole assessed annual rental of the Tay in 1828, previous to the alteration, was £14,574, 10s.; last season (1858) it was £11,487, 2s. 6d.; although in 1852 it had fallen as low as £7,973, 5s. This state of things having alarmed the proprietors of the fishing, a new salmon bill was carried through Parliament this last session, making the close time to last from the 26th August until the 1st February for net-fishing, and extending the rod-fishing until the 1st October. This measure has already had the effect of raising the rental nearly up to that of 1828, besides making the rod-fishing very
valuable, which before had fallen so low that very little of the river was let for that purpose. Since the nets were taken off this season, on the 26th of August, the river is swarming with salmon, and anglers have had good sport. Salmon have been caught with the fly on Lord Gray stations, in the tideway, which the oldest fishermen acknowledge they have never heard of before. The protecting force during close time has also been increased; and there is little doubt that in a few years the Tay will become as famous for its salmon-fishing as it once was.
The river Earn, the second largest drain for the waters of the county, rises in Loch Earn, and flows through Strathearn until it reaches the Tay near Abernethy. The upper part of this strath is of considerable elevation, and consequently, until it is joined by the Machany river, a little above Trinity Gask, flows for the most part with a rapid current. Between this part of it and its junction with the Tay it is more like a canal than a river, and when flooded does much damage to the crops in the low grounds. After heavy floods, it generally finds, in various places of its course, a new channel for itself, which is very hurtful to the land upon its banks, although much money has been spent upon embankments. These old courses of the river are full of pike, some of which attain a great size; ducks and water-fowl also abound in them. A considerable quantity of salmon are annually caught in this river. The rental of that part of it near its junction with the Tay, belonging to the Earl of Wemyss, was, for 1858, L.121; for 1829, L.165; the rental of the upper proprietors is not generally known. Salmon ascend as high as Loch Earn, and the best spawning-ground is situated between Crief and that lake. Besides Salmo salar, this river is famous for S. trutta, or sea-trout. S. fario, or common trout, are abundant; and Esox lucius, or common pike, are far too numerous for a large increase of the genus Salmo. The Machany is a beautiful little stream, flowing through the grounds of Lord Strathallan: it is well protected, and abounds in sea and common trout. Strathearn is second to no strath in the county for the beauty of its scenery, and in the lower part of it for the richness of its crops.
The third great drain is the Forth and its tributaries; but as for the greater part of its course it is the boundary of the shire, it will be sufficient to glance at those of its tributaries that are in Perthshire. Loch Katrine, which is about to become the reservoir for supplying the city of Glasgow with water, has been immortalized by Sir Walter Scott. In this lake there is good fishing; it contains S. fario, common trout, and pike. The scenery is so well known that no description is required. Lochs Achray and Veneschir are continuations of Katrine, but, in addition to the fish inhabiting the latter, a few salmon are found in their waters. The stream that flows from these lakes joins the river Teith at Callander. The Teith rises in Loch Lubnaig, a few miles farther up than the last-named village. Loch Lubnaig is a fine sheet of water, and abounds in S. fario and small trout. The Teith contains a few salmon; but the salmon-fishing of the Forth and Teith has fallen off ever since Blair Drummond moor was sent in such quantities into the river; and no increase can ever be looked for until such time as the proprietors see it to be their interest to afford more protection to the spawning fish and the fry. The water of Allan, which enters the Forth at the Bridge of Allan, not many years ago used to be highly esteemed by anglers for the multitude of its sea-trout, but owing to the wholesale destruction of the fry in the parc state that is carried on, it contains now very few. The Forth proper takes its rise from a large spring near the foot of Ben Lomond on the N. side. The spring is so large that from the first it is a considerable stream; but after flowing until it reaches Aberfoyle, it receives the waters that issue from the upper and lower Lochs Ard. Lochs Ard are the favourite fishing-ground of the anglers of the west, and contain trout of a very fine quality. The Forth on the whole is a sluggish-running river, and contains salmon, sea-trout, common trout, pike, perch, and eels.
In the more elevated districts of the county, where the mountain ranges slope down into the level country, and amongst the numerous glens which penetrate these in all directions, the climate is charged with moisture in a higher degree, the winters are longer and more severe, the snow frequently lies longer on the ground, and the spring is generally later than in the lower districts of the county. The highest summer temperature rarely exceeds 65°, and the mean temperature, in three different situations in the county (none of them, however, more than 150 feet above the sea), has been found to be 47°. The cloudy character of the atmosphere in the mountainous districts, by intercepting the light of the sun, retards the ripening of the crops, and accumulates moisture, which tends to lower the average temperature. The district of Perth proper is said to be the least humid, the average rain-fall being only 23 inches; but in the Carse of Gowrie, on the shores of the Firth of Tay, the mean quantity of rain for twelve years was 24½ inches; at
Perth, for a period of six years, it was 30.30 inches; and at Belmont in Strathmore, for thirty years, it was as high as 30.40 inches. The extensive drainage, executed by various proprietors, has no doubt tended considerably to ameliorate the climate.
As the county may, from its external configuration, so it may also from its geological structure, be divided essentially into Highland and Lowland divisions. The former consists mainly of metamorphic schists, clay, mica, chlorite, and hornblende slates, and gneiss; while the latter is made up of the old red sandstone series. The Lowland or southern division of the county is made up of a broad belt of the old red sandstone, which stretches right across Scotland from the Clyde, between Dumbarton and Helmsburgh, to the E. coast between Stonehaven and Dundee. Over this belt lie the great valleys or plains of Strathmore, Strathearn, and the Carse of Gowrie. The old red sandstone is bounded on the N. by a very narrow belt, varying from half a mile to 3 miles in breadth, of clay and other slates,—which belt stretches parallel to that last described; also from the Clyde about Helmsburgh to the E. coast at Stonehaven. North of this there is a broad band of mica-slate likewise passing across Scotland from the W. to the E. coast. This is succeeded, farther N. still, in the Rannoch district, by quartz rock and gneiss; the latter forming the geological basis of the greater part of the north of Scotland. The sandstone forms level plains; the slates rise into the majestic range of the Grampians. Here and there the strata of sandstone or slate are penetrated by erupted hills of granite or trap,—the former chiefly in the Highland, the latter in Lowland districts.
The northern or Highland part of the county is made up chiefly of the broad range of the Grampians, which at the same time form a natural northern boundary. The slates of which they are chiefly composed, are very variable in structure; passing into each other by insensible gradations. Thus, the clay-slate passes frequently into the graywacke on the one hand, and mica-slate on the other; mica-slate graduates into gneiss, and the latter into quartz rock. One consequence of this is, unequal disintegration by exposure to the weather; and a result of this again is, the peaked or "aliguille-like" form of many of the Perthshire mountains. The clay-slate series may be well studied about Dunkeld. Near Birnam, and on both sides of the river, are extensive quarries of roofing slate of fine quality. The hills on both sides of the river, where the railway from Perth enters the pass or ravine at Birnam, are formed of clay-slate. The clay-slate may here be found passing into graywacke, mica, hornblende, talc, and chlorite slates. Garnets are common in the micaceous slates here; while micaceous iron ore and crystallized chlorite are to be met with at Birnam quarries. The mica-slate about Dunkeld frequently also contains tourmaline, sometimes calc-spar; and on the S. side of Craig-y-Barns there is a vein of copper pyrites. There are abundant evidences about Dunkeld of the depository action of water in pre-Adamic ages. There are numerous hillocks and mounds of gravel and sand, excellent sections of which, as well as of the clay-slates, may be seen in the railway cuttings. McCulloch regards the valley above Dunkeld as having once been a lake. The clay and mica slate series may be easily and satisfactorily studied in the classic regions of the Trossachs and Loch Katrine, in the vicinity of Callander, to which there is now ready communication by railway with Edinburgh and Glasgow. The well-known Ben Ledi is formed, on its N.W. side, of mica-slate, and on the S.E. of clay-slate, which, as at Dunkeld and elsewhere, frequently passes into graywacke. Clay-slate is quarried on Ben Voirlich, another hill in the same neighbourhood. Of the Breadalbane hills, Ben Lawers consists chiefly of mica-slate at its base, and skirting Loch Tay this is interstratified with beds of limestone. About Killin the mica-slate passes into chlorite slate, as in Craig Challlach, which again is frequently penetrated by, or interstratified with, quartz rock. The latter, as well as the chlorite slate, abounds in beautiful needles of the rare mineral rutile. A micaceous slate, which occurs along with the chlorite slate on Craig Challlach, contains hornblende and large cabical pyrites. At Tyndrum the mica-slate joins or passes into quartz rock, and the junction is marked by the occurrence of a rich metalliferous vein, the basis being galena, with which, however, are also associated arseniate of cobalt, black cobalt ore, silver, copper pyrites, zinc, blende, sulphate of baryta, and calcareous spar. This vein is traceable for at least 10 miles; it has long been worked for its lead by the Marquis of Breadalbane, to whom it belongs. About Taymouth the slates have the talcose character, and sometimes contain asbestos. Schehallion in Rannoch may be regarded as classic ground, geologically speaking, since this mountain was selected by Drs Maskelyne and Charles Hutton as a site for their experiments on the density of the earth. The upper portion of the hill consists of quartz rock, the lower of mica and hornblende slates. Passing from the Breadalbane to the Atholl mountains and valleys, Glen Tilt at once arrests our attention. It was here that the celebrated Dr James Hutton
first obtained physical proof of the correctness of his views on the igneous origin of granite. The penetration of quartz rock, gneiss, limestone, and various schists, by granite, may be seen at various points in the glen. This glen is further famed for its marble; the greater part of which is white, and associated with steatite and serpentine; but a portion of which is also of a beautiful flesh colour, with radiating masses of actinolite, asbestos, tremolite, and sahlite, occur in the limestone of this district. Actinolite slate occurs sometimes, interstratified with gneiss, in the valley of the Garry. Kyanite occurs in Cairn Lia; fluor spar, rutile, crystallized mica, and chlorite, in Ben-y-Gloe. This hill, as well as Ben Vrachie and Cairn Gower, consists of quartz rock, with mica-slate and gneiss. Besides Glen Tilt and Loch Tay, limestone also occurs about the Pass of Leny and Aberfoyle, in the western part of the district, and here it is occasionally wrought for agricultural purposes.
We have already mentioned casually, that occasional outbursts, or erupted masses of granite occur throughout the district. At Comrie, in the Lochearn district, granite occurs both in isolated erupted masses, and in the form of a couple of long and large veins or dykes. There is no granitic centre in Perthshire at all. It does not distinctly appear whether there is any connection between this geological phenomenon and the frequent occurrence of earthquakes, for which Comrie is so famous; but the latter would seem traceable to causes acting at no great distance below the surface.
The Lowland or southern division of the district is partly bounded on the S., partly broken up by the ranges of the Ochils and Sidlaws. These may be regarded as branches of the same great trunk. The Ochils are generally regarded as commencing about Stirling, at the Bridge of Allan, and as terminating at Perth. Here they may be considered as dividing into two main branches or continuations, one of which runs down the S. side of the Tay, and terminates at Perry-Port-on-Craig, constituting Norman Law, Clatchart Craig, and the other hills so prominent about Newburgh. The other stretches along the N. side of the Tay from Perth to Montrose, and divides the great valleys of Strathmore and the Carse of Gowrie; this is generally known by the name of the Sidlaw range. These hills, by whatever name known, are all trappian in their structure, consisting at various points of every gradation and intermixture of basalt, greenstones, amygdaloids, porphyries, compact felspar, tufas, and breccias. The variable structure of some of these hills is very interesting. Moncrieff and Kinnoull Hills, near Perth, are fine mural precipices of trap, rising abruptly from the old red sandstone on the S., and sloping gently towards the N. They run parallel to and closely resemble each other. Moncrieff Hill consists of greenstones, basalt, porphyries, and tufas, passing into each other. Its basalt and greenstones are sometimes obscurely columnar; a phenomenon not unfrequently observed in other hills of this range. Good specimens of the traps of Moncrieff Hill may be procured from the heaps of rubbish thrown up around the ventilating shaft of the tunnel of the Scottish Central Railway, which pierces the hill between the Friarton of Perth and the village of Craigend. These specimens here consist, in great measure, of amygdaloids and tufas, frequently intermixed with much free earth (chlorite). Kinnoull Hill is still more variable in its structure, consisting of basalts, greenstones, porphyries, amygdaloids, tufas, and breccias. Of these, the amygdaloid is perhaps the most interesting, from its abounding in agates and chalcedony calc spar, and drusy cavities lined with amethyst and other forms of quartz. Its basis varies from a basalt to a hardened clay. Kinnoull Hill has long been celebrated for its agates, excellent specimens of which may be seen in the shops of the Perth lapidaries. Specimens are not readily found in situ, from the perpendicular and rugged character of the cliffs, but they are frequently to be found on the banks of the Tay between Barnhill and Kinfauns. Chlorite is particularly abundant in all the trap rocks about Perth, frequently in nodules of considerable size; sometimes filling what have been cavities, or diffused through a brecciated amygdaloid. In addition to the Ochils and Sidlaws, which form a sort of backbone of trap to the lowland district of Perthshire, the old red sandstone is pierced by numerous dykes or veins of trap, sometimes of such extent that they can be traced across the whole length or breadth of the district. Hutton speaks of one as running from a little to the S. of Crieff, by Lynedoch and Campsie Linn, in a line N.E. through Strathmore, for about 3 miles. When it comes in contact with limestone the trap sometimes passes into serpentine. Limestone occurs but sparingly in the lowland district. It is, or has been worked, however, at Meiglo and Cargill. In connection with some such trap dykes or veins as have been above described, the mineral spring of Piteathly is supposed to occur. This, according to the analysis of the late Professor Thomas Thomson of Glasgow, contains chiefly the chlorides of calcium and sodium, and the sulphate of lime. Having probably some similar geological relation or origin is the mineral spring of Crieff, or more properly of Cowgask, near
Crieff. It was only discovered some eight or ten years ago, and has not yet become so popular or fashionable as it undoubtedly deserves. The water is of the same character as that of Piteathly, Airthrey (Bridge of Allan), and Dunblane. According to the analysis of the late Professor Thomas Thomson of Glasgow, the Crieff or Cowgask mineral water contains chiefly the chlorides of calcium, sodium, and magnesium, and the sulphate of lime. According to Professor Christison it contains about 640 grains of saline matter per gallon,—that is, nearly 1 per cent. Great efforts have been made of late years, and are still being made, by the townspeople to render Crieff all that can be desired as a residence for invalids requiring the use of the waters. Before leaving the traps we must not omit to refer to Glen Farg, the amygdaloid of which abounds in zeolites, for which indeed this locality has long been famous. They consist chiefly of analcime, mesotype, stilbite, and prehnite.
The old red sandstone of the Carse of Gowrie and Strathmore consists essentially of the three following beds or divisions:—1. A coarse conglomerate, which may be well seen in some of the river gorges, as at Invermay and Craighall, Blairgowrie, both of which ravines or glens are celebrated for the beauty of their scenery—the former being the subject of Mallet's song of the "Birds of Invermay." At Blairgowrie the imbedded stones are chiefly purple amygdaloids, and other rocks of the trap series. A finer conglomerate may also be seen in the building-stones of Perth bridge. 2. A gray sandstone, which forms the basis of the old red sandstone of the Carse of Gowrie. It may be seen at Dupplin and Dunning in Strathmore. 3. A bright red-spotted sandstone, which lies above the last named, and which is quarried at Inchture, Dunbarrie, Pitfour, and Clashbennie. The two latter quarries are celebrated for their fossil fish, by which this sandstone has been identified, as to its age and position, with the sandstones of the valley of the Eden in Fife. Clashbennie, in particular, is almost classic ground: it was here that the first and finest specimen of the Holopsychus nobilissimus was found, which specimen is now deposited in the British Museum. The quarry is about half a mile distant from the Glencarse station of the Perth and Dundee Railway, on the right side of the road between St Madoes and Errol; it is therefore easily accessible. But unfortunately it has not been worked for years, and few of the scales of the Holopsychus are now to be had. The beds of dark-red coarse sandstone, containing the scales as originally found, and as they were found by the writer several years ago, cannot now be got at, the section being vertical, or nearly so, with a deep, large pool of water below. Scales may, however, occasionally be picked up among the debris, or purchased from the children of neighbouring cottars for a trifle. On a recent visit, the writer found that a new part of the quarry had just been opened. The stone exposed was much lighter in colour and coarser in texture than that in which the scales were first discovered. It was interlaid with beds of what is locally called "keel,"—a hardened ferruginous clay. Some layers also had a conglomerate character, the imbedded nodules consisting chiefly of the ferruginous slate-clay just mentioned. Among the conglomerate chiefly, scales and ichthyodurites of the Holopsychus were not uncommon; but they were generally smaller, and with the groovings or sulci less distinctly marked than in those formerly found. The texture of the scales was generally replaced by carbonate of lime (calc spar). Carbonaceous impressions are comparatively common in some beds of the old red sandstone: they are supposed by some authorities to be of vegetable origin, but their nature has not been satisfactorily determined. Another source of considerable doubt and discussion has been the yellowish or pale circular spots on the bright-red sandstone, as it occurs at Inchture and other quarries of the Carse of Gowrie. It is generally supposed that the presence of minute organisms of some kind, for they are not now visible, may have been the means of discharging the colour over limited spots or localities. The old red sandstone is sometimes of the character of marl, containing a considerable proportion of carbonate of lime. This renders it very serviceable to the farmer. Sandstone-marl occurs at or near Stanley, on the Tay; near Perth; Lynedoch, on the Almond, also near Perth; and at Abercairn, near Crieff.
Superimposed upon the old red sandstone in the Carse of Gowrie is the great alluvial deposit of the "Carse clay." This may be divided into the following beds or strata:—1. A boulder clay, which forms the basis of the rest; 2. A blue clay proper; 3. A peat, containing roots, branches, leaves, and fruits of trees; and, 4. The Carse clay proper—a mixture of sand and clay, the latter predominating. In the latter, about five feet above the peat, and considerably above the present high-water mark, is a bed of marine shells. These consist entirely of existing littoral species, being mostly made up, in specimens which we have examined, of the Cardium edule. The peat would appear to have given rise to some discussion among geologists as to its nature and origin. The late
Professor Fleming of Edinburgh has described it as a submerged forest, due to subsidence of the banks of the Tay; but Dr Buist of Bombay controverts this idea. It may be examined about Errol and Pitfour; and throughout the Carse it will be found to be of pretty uniform dimensions and contents.
On the lessons taught by the structure of the Carse clay we cannot here enter. It is supposed by some local geologists, who have bestowed much attention on the subject, that at one time a depression of the land below sea or estuary water occurred, and that this was followed, at some considerable lapse of time, by an elevatory action. The existence of the peat—its present situation, and the presence in it of roots apparently in situ, and of the leaves and fruit of forest trees, are explained on this hypothesis. Evidence is very contradictory. Remains of boat-rings and staples have been found considerably below, as well as considerably above, the present river or sea level, apparently coeval in date, and of course belonging to the human epoch. It is impossible to admit, as some would have us to do, these as proofs of movements of elevation and depression, occurring at the same time and in the same place. Doubtless much error has been introduced by traditions which have not been founded on facts.
There are few counties in Scotland which can boast of the same variety and richness of their flora as Perthshire. In the northern and southern divisions of the county are to be met with some of the rarest plants in Scotland. Ben Lawers, for instance, is, botanically speaking, classic ground; and its alpine flora is perhaps as rich and rare as that of the more famed Cava. We cannot pretend to give anything like a vidimus of the flora of Perthshire. All that we can here attempt is to give a brief enumeration of the rarer plants only of the district, leaving the reader to infer therefrom the character of the more ordinary vegetation.
Referring first to the northern or Highland section of the county, Ben Lawers alone is the habitat of the following rare alpine:—Saxifraga cernua, S. viridula, Eriogonum uniflorum (which is probably a mere form of E. alpinum), Veronica frutescens, Eriophorum capiatum (according to Don, who, however, has probably confounded it with E. vaginatum), Carex repens, C. curta, C. nuttalliana, Woodwardia hyperborea, Poa nemoralis, var. γ (of Hooker and Arnott's Flora), Triticum cominum, var. β, Cyptopteris montana, Salix arbuscula, var. β, Bartia alpina, Draba cerna, var. β, D. repens, Saxifraga saxatilis. On other portions of the Breadalbane range of mountains occur the following:—Chierchia soidodes, Arenaria cerna (Mael Dancroig), A. rutella, Ceratium alpinum, Potentilla alpestris, Sibbaldia procumbens, Rosa inodora (near Meggarnie in Glen Lyon), R. canina (valleys), Epilobium alinifolium, E. alpinum, Saxifraga stellaris, S. nitens, S. oppositifolia, Hieracium pallidum, H. strictum, Eriogonum alpinum, Azalea procumbens, Arctostaphylos alpina, Myosotis alpestris, Veronica saxatilis, Bartia alpina (Maelgradha, Corrach-Uachdar, &c.), Molinoprum spicatum, Plantago maritima (Glen Dochart, and also on summits of highest mountains), Salix arenaria, var. α, S. Myrtensis, var. α (Craig Chaillichach), S. procumbens, S. herbacea, S. lanata (Mael-Uachdar, near Killin), Juncus carutaneus, J. trifidus, J. blythii, J. triplumis, Scirpus sylvaticus (about Killin), Kobresia caricina (Shrine-ach-Lochan), Carex Brunnichiana (Killin), C. atrata, C. rigidula, C. saxatilis, C. vaginata (Craig Chaillichach and Corrach-Uachdar near Killin), C. capillaris, Phleum alpinum, Cyptopteris montana (Corrach-Uachdar, &c.), Epilobium palustre, var. β. The following grow on the Atholl mountains:—Carex capillaris (Ben-y-Gloe), Crepis succisaefolia (Falls of Tummel), Geophalium sylvaticum, var. β (Ben Chat near Blair Atholl), Campanula rapunculoides (Blair Atholl), Menisieria corulea (on the "Sow of Atholl," Dalnaspidal), Polygonum verticillatum (Blair Atholl), Tilia grandifolia (Blair Atholl), Rubus arcticus (Ben-y-Gloe), Cryptogramma crispa (on Birnam Hill), Gentiana anglica, Trientalis europaea, Listera cordata, Callitriche autumnalis (Loch of Cluny), Lactuca virosa (Dunkeld), Stratiotes aloides (Loch of Cluny), Gymnadenia conopsea, Habenaria albidula, Betonica umbellata (Loch of Cluny, introduced), Asplenium alternifolium and A. septentrionale (Stenton Crag, Dunkeld). To these may be added as growing in the Highland division of Perthshire:—Pimpinella magica (banks of the Teith), Lunaria borealis (in fir woods in different parts of the county), Salix ambigua, var. α, Elatine alexandra (Loch Ruisky near Callander), Silene acaulis, Ulex nana (Dalguise), Potentilla opaca (Brues of Balquhidder). In the lowland division of Perthshire we find its flora equally rich and varied. The most interesting plants of this section are probably Schoenus palustris (abundant in a marsh on the side of the Methven road, 4 miles from Perth), Monarda grandiflora (abundant in a fir wood about 1½ to 2 miles beyond the village of New Scone), Tencrisus chamædrys (Methven Wood), and Turritis glabra (Redgorton). But the following plants, also, are of great interest. In the Methven district, including the woods and grounds of Methven and Lynedoch and the valley of the Almond, occur Corallorrhiza innata, Epilobium grandifolium, E. ensifolium, and E. latifolium, Listera nidus-avis, Paris quadrifolia, and Eriogonum al-
pinum, the seeds of which would appear to have been carried by the Almond from the Breadalbane mountains. The Redgorton district, which includes a portion of the banks of the Tay, possesses Populus Portula, Nuphar lutea, Nymphaea alba, Thalictrum minus, Hypericum hausskneppii, H. hirsutum, H. palustre, H. quadrangulum, H. dubium, Cichorium intybus, Bidens tripartita, Cnicus eriophorus, C. heterophyllus, Trientalis europaea, Adiantum moenchotelliana, Chelidonium majus, Habenaria viridis, H. bifolia, and Listera ovata. In the Carse of Gowrie district, which includes the salt marshes on the banks of the Tay, between Perth and Dundee, the alluvial plain of the carse proper, and the "Brues of the Carse," or the southern declivities of the Sidlaw range of hills, are to be found Galium saxatile, Cynoglossum spicatum, Calamagrostis acinoides, Potentilla San-galiorum, Pyrrola rotundifolia and P. media, Lotus corniculatus var. tenuifolia, Centaurium echinoides, Stachys arvensis, S. palustris, Galopsis Ladonensis, Ranunculus hirsutus, Chrysopodium alternifolium, Leonurus Carduata, Scrophularia versatilis, Typha angustifolia, and Dianthus Armeria. In the Kinneoul and Perth district, which includes the hills of Kinneoul, Moncreiff, and Craigie, and the Glen of Balthayock, occur Ceterochia officinarum, Sagina ciliata, Lycopodium Viscaria, Gentiana columbiniana, Sodium anglicum, S. album, Potentilla argentea, P. reptans. In the Strathearn district, including Invermay, Dapplin, and Glen Farg, occur Dentaria bulbifera, Doronicum Pardalianes and planta-gineum, Listera nidus-avis, Ranunculus alpinus, Monarda viridis, M. piperita, Lycopodium Viscaria, Betonica officinalis. To the foregoing we may add Nepeta Cataria, between Culross and Kinneoul, on the Forth; Vaccinium album, Mickleour Woods, introduced; Galium saxatile, Ochil and Strathblane Hills; Dipsacus sylvestris, abundant on Kinneoul Hill; Lactuca virosa, of great size, on the talus at the foot of Kinneoul Hill; Hieracium strictum, Ochil; Citellus arvensis, Culross, on the Forth; Doronicum Pardalianes, Island at the junction of Almond and Tay; Campanula latifolia, Invermay Woods; C. glomerata, banks of Tay, near confluence of Almond; Thalictrum minus β majus, Island at junction of Almond and Tay; Helleborus fatidus, Scone Woods; Hypericum barbatus, according to Don, at side of a hedge near Aberdalgie, Strathearn; Ornithopus porphyllus, near Perth; Agrimonia grisea, Dundee road, near Perth; Vicia tetrasperma, Ruthven, near Perth; Senecio aquaticus, Selruip trequiter, and S. lacustris, marshes on the Tay, immediately below Barnhill Toll; Astragalus glycyphylus and Vicia sylvatica, banks of Almond, a short way above its junction with the Tay.
Equally interesting with the Phanerogamic is the Cryptogamic vegetation of the district; but more than a mere passing allusion, want of space compels us to omit.
In a county of so great extent, and possessing such a variety of surface, considerable diversity must exist in the character of the soil. The carse or alluvial lands on the shores of the Frith of Tay have long been celebrated for their fertility. They are considered as the joint produce of river and sea deposition for a series of ages. The general character of the soil is that of a rich clay, very deep, in some places alternating with layers of peat, and having sand and marine deposits at the bottom. This soil is not wholly alluvial, being sometimes mixed with the debris of trap-rocks, and also of the sandstone, which, as already mentioned, forms a geological characteristic of the lowland districts of Perthshire. Considerable tracts of this inferior description of alluvial soil are found accompanying the courses of the principal rivers, and extend into the upper portions of Strath Tay, Strath Ardle, and Strath Tummel. A soil composed of clay and sand, and called by agriculturists a till, extends along a vast tract of this county from E. to W., and is supposed to be formed from the red sandstone prevalent in that district. Peat is to be met with almost everywhere in Perthshire; that known by the name of Flanders Moss is said to extend over 10,000 acres, and is amongst the largest continuous tracts of this description in the United Kingdom.
In the arable districts of this county, such as the Carse of Gowrie, and the fertile lands skirting part of the course of its principal rivers, the modes of agriculture and management of farms are much the same as in the other agricultural counties of Scotland. Drainage has been effected to a very large extent; new discoveries and inventions in the theory and practice of tillage are freely adopted, and the spirit of improvement and enterprise very fully pervades the agricultural population. The arable farms vary in extent from 50 to 500 acres and upwards; and in the Carse of Gowrie the rents are as high as in any part of the kingdom. Wheat is largely raised on the best soils, and not unsuccessfully even in several of the Highland districts. In the wheat-growing soils this crop usually alternates with beans and peas, barley, hay, and oats. The agricultural statistics of Scotland give the number of acres in this county under the different kinds of crop in 1857 as follows:—Wheat, 25,638; barley, 18,802; oats, 61,084; rye, 77; bere, 655; beans, 3949; peas, 301; vetches or tares, 1241; turnips, 33,313; potatoes, 17,482; mangold, 33; carrots, 32; cabbage,
42; rape, 8; flax, 15; turnip-seed, 205; other grain or root crops, 17; hare or summer fallow, 1840; grass and hay under rotation, 99,656. The pasture-farms in the higher parts of the county are large, and raise great numbers of sheep. Other descriptions of live stock are also largely cultivated. Dairy farming does not form a prominent feature in the rural economy of this county. In some favoured spots orchards succeed well, many of them are very large, and their produce is highly celebrated. Perthshire is remarkable for the great extent and beauty of its woods. Of these, many are of natural wood, chiefly oak. But extensive plantations of various kinds of trees have been made during the last 50 or 60 years by several proprietors, especially by the late Duke of Atholl, whose planting operations were carried on upon the most extensive scale, at once beautifying and enriching one of the finest parts of the county. To him Perthshire is indebted for the introduction of the larch, which has been found singularly adapted to the climate and soil. The plantations of this tree have thriven amazingly, and are of great extent and value. In 1674 the valued rental of Perthshire was £28,324 sterling; in 1815 the annual value of assessed property amounted to £1,555,552 sterling; and in 1858 the valuation made up in terms of the recent Valuation Act amounted to £677,114, 9s. 9d.
This county is particularly rich in splendid seats and mansions belonging to the great proprietors. Of these, the most remarkable are Taymouth Castle, the palace of Scone, Kinfauns Castle, Murthy House, Dunplin Castle, Rossie Priory, and Blair Castle. Castle Huntly and Blair Castle are fine specimens of the old baronial and castellated habitations of the ancient lords of the soil; and Doone Castle is considered as one of the finest ruins of its kind in Scotland. Perthshire is not remarkable for antiquities, secular or ecclesiastical. Druidical circles and Roman remains are found in various places. Of the former, one circle almost entire, called by the country people "Standing Stones," formerly existed at Craigmakerran, the property of the gentry of Perth; but about 40 years ago it was barbarously destroyed, and the stones blasted for the purpose of being employed in the erection of a farmstead. Before this act of vandalism was committed, the circle in question, which stood on a projecting crag about 6 miles from Perth, on the Isla road, was perhaps one of the most perfect of the kind in the kingdom. Of the latter, the camp or station at Ardoch and that at Comrie are well known, as well as the Roman road which seems to have connected them. There is another at Delvin, which is scarcely less remarkable. The ruins of the cathedrals of Dunblane and Dunkeld are also in excellent preservation, though the architecture is by no means of the highest order. The tower of Abernethy, which has long puzzled the heads of antiquaries, is unfortunately decaying rapidly, as is also the fine old abbey of Culross.
In the animal kingdom there is little peculiar to the county. Game beasts and birds of every description abound in their respective districts. These are everywhere strictly preserved, and the sport furnished in the county forms a very considerable item of its wealth.
The principal towns are—Perth and Culross, which are royal burghs; Crieff, Callander, Kincauldine, Doone, Comrie, Dunblane, Auchterarder, Dunkeld, and Blairgowrie. The villages are numerous, and many of them populous and thriving. The greater part of Coupar-Angus is included in the county of Perth.
Mills for spinning flax, bleachfields, and calico-printfields, are numerous; and there are some large establishments for spinning cotton-yarn at Stanley, near Perth, and at Deanston. Oil-mills are also to be found in various places. The tanning of leather is carried on to a considerable extent at Crieff and at Thorahill. Wool is likewise an article of considerable sale. From the more fertile districts large quantities of grain are annually brought to market. Bark and timber, principally larch and oak, also form commercial articles of no small importance. The produce of its fisheries has already been noticed as being among the list of exports.
The population of the county of Perth amounted in 1831 to 142,166, being an increase since 1821 of 3919. In 1841 it was 137,457; and in 1851, 138,660. In the last-mentioned year Perthshire contained in all 196 places of worship, with 84,583 sittings. Of the former, 59 belonged to the Established Church, 60 to the Free Church, 35 to the United Presbyterians, 10 to the Episcopalians, 8 to the Baptists, 7 to the Independents, 5 to the Roman Catholics, 3 to the Original Secession, 2 each to the Relief Church and Wesleyans, and 1 each to several smaller sects. The number of day schools was 307 (221 public and 86 private), with 21,143 scholars. There were also 220 Sabbath schools, with 16,224 scholars; 19 evening schools, with 464 scholars; and 10 literary and scientific institutions, with 623 members. The county sends a member to Parliament, as does also Perth, the principal city. Culross, Queensferry, Dunfermline, Inverkeithing, and Stirling, unite in returning a third.