TRIPOLI

TRIPOLI, the most easterly of the Barbary States, nominally a province of the Ottoman empire, but virtually independent, lies along the south coast of the Mediterranean, between N. Lat. 28. and 33. 30.; E. Long. 10. 30. and 20.; bounded on the N. by the sea; E. by Barca; S. by Fezzan and the Libyan desert; and W. by Tunis. These are the limits of Tripoli proper; but the name is sometimes used in a more extended sense, including Barca and Fezzan, which are governed by chiefs subject to the pasha of Tripoli. But as these are described under their proper heads, it is only necessary here to give an account of Tripoli proper. Its length is about 700 miles, its breadth from 100 to 200, and its area estimated at 105,000 square miles. The coast line, which has a length of about 800 miles, is indented with the large bay of Sidra, the ancient Syrtis, but is broken with very few smaller creeks; and has only one good harbour, that of Tripoli the capital. The whole of the coast is low and sandy; the western portion, as far east as Cape Mesurata where the Gulf of Sidra begins, is in many places very fertile, covered with palm-groves or rich luxuriant gardens; but the shores of the Gulf of Sidra, which extend from Cape Mesurata on the west to Cape Teiones on the east, are very bare and sterile, lined with sandy dunes and chains of salt marshes, so that this whole region has got the name of Sert, or the desert. Still further east lies the plateau of Barca, where steep and rugged cliffs come down to the sea, and alter entirely the character of the coast. In the western part of the country the land continues level towards the interior as far as the northern foot of the plateau Dhar-el-Jebel, which extends in a direction parallel to the coast, and from 40 to 50 miles distant from it. Its northern declivity is pretty steep, so that it has the appearance of a range of mountains when viewed from the north, and it is known in different parts by different names. Towards the west it is called Jebel Jefran; to the south of Tripoli, Gharian; and further east, where it branches out nearly to the sea, Tarhoona. The first of these parts has an average height of 2600 feet; the second of 1500; and the third of about 1000. At the point where the coast-line

Tripoli. bends towards the south and the Bay of Sidra begins, the plateau ceases altogether. South of Gharian it rises to a greater height, in some places to 2800 feet, and here bears the name of Hamada. It extends to the S.W. as far as Ghadames, and to the S. as far as the north border of the oasis of Fezzan, thus occupying nearly the whole of western Tripoli. The surface is for the most part level, and broken only by valleys descending in terraces to the depth of 400 or 500 feet. It is partly fertile; Gharian is cultivated to a large extent, and Tarhoona is richly covered with fig and olive trees, but the southern portion is very dry and barren, except where the valleys are occupied with palms, fig-trees, and olives. There are no important rivers in Tripoli, and very few permanent streams of any kind; although there are many that are filled during the winter by the rains, but entirely dried up in summer. The want of rivers is supplied to some extent in the low country along the coast by underground streams, which are reached by wells a few feet deep. There are no fresh-water lakes of any size, but only a few of salt water along the coast. The country round the Gulf of Sidra is of the most desolate character. At a little distance from the sea there rises a chain of hills 400 or 500 feet high, but the nature of the country beyond them is little known. The prevalent geological formations in Tripoli are chalk, sandstone, and marl. Chalk and marl are the chief deposits about the capital, and along the whole of the coast plain; while the interior plateau is composed chiefly of sandstone, which, from the action of the atmosphere, and the large amount of iron it contains, in many places assumes the aspect of basalt. True basalt occurs in some places, but hardly any other igneous rock exists in the country. Of useful minerals, Tripoli has none of any importance, with the exception of sea-salt, obtained along the coast, and sulphur, which exists in abundance at three places, Brega, Linouf, and Mouktar, along the shore of the Gulf of Sidra. With the exception of some marshy spots close to the sea, the climate of Tripoli is very healthy. The heat in summer is intense, especially when the hot south wind blows from the Sahara, when the thermometer sometimes rises above 90°. During the summer hardly any rain falls, but the cool and moist breezes which blow regularly from the sea cause an abundant dew, on which the vegetation almost entirely depends. In the winter, from November to March, rain falls in abundance, and the temperature is sometimes reduced as low as 40° or even 32° at night, while during the day it usually stands at 70°. In the interior the winter is still more severe; it is introduced by violent thunderstorms and rains; on Gharian snow sometimes lies; and on some of the higher peaks it remains for a considerable length of time. The soil in many parts of Tripoli is very fertile,

and, as it is carefully cultivated, produces abundant crops. The best portion is a tract called Mesheea, extending along the shore in the west for a length of about 15 miles by 5 in breadth. This land yields abundant crops of wheat, barley, millet, and maize, and has also plantations of palm and orange trees, vineyards, orchards, and gardens, which yield oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and many other fruits. In the more hilly regions there are extensive and luxuriant natural pastures, on which large numbers of cattle are fed. The cattle and sheep are small, but very strong and hardy. Of wild beasts there are not many. Lions have been almost exterminated, but jackals, hyenas, and other smaller beasts of prey are numerous. Ostriches wander about the more desert parts of the country, and bustards, cranes, plovers, quails, and flamingoes are among the birds of Tripoli. Among insects, the scorpion is one of the most destructive, and is found here in immense swarms; locusts frequently devastate the country. The land is on the whole but thinly peopled, as the whole population, which is steadily decreasing by emigration to Tunis and Egypt on account of the oppressive system of government in Tripoli, does not exceed 600,000 in Tripoli proper; and including Barca and Fezzan is only from 1,500,000 to 2,000,000. The prevailing character of the population is Arab, though on the western borders there dwell many Berbers, who speak their own language, and the general character of the town population is Moorish. In the coast towns there are many Jews; and Turks, generally military or other officials, live at the capital and other chief places. Mohammedanism is the religion of the whole people, with the exception of the Jews and a few Christians. The manufactures of Tripoli are inconsiderable, and not to be compared to those of Tunis; as here trade, agriculture, and pastoral pursuits are almost the only occupations of the inhabitants. Woollen cloth, carpets, red sashes, and gold wire, are almost the only articles made in the country. The trade is very considerable. As Tripoli is the nearest place on the seacoast to Bornu in the interior, large caravans proceed from that place by Moorzook and Ghadames to Tripoli, bringing, among other articles, negro slaves, ostrich feathers, morocco leather, gold, and ivory, in exchange for European and oriental wares. From Moorzook many date and senna leaves, as well as trona from the natron lakes of Fezzan, are brought down to the coast. Of its own products Tripoli exports gums, wool, hides, madder, dates, saffron, and corn. The caravans come to Tripoli in winter, and return to the interior on the approach of spring. The only seaport for maritime trade in Tripoli proper is the capital, but Barca has an important port, Bengazi. The shipping of the former for the years 1852-57 was as follows:—

The government is an unlimited despotism exercised by a pasha, who pays a tribute to the Porte, and is supported by a regular Turkish force of 5000 men. The amount of the tribute is not exactly known; it is derived from import and export duties, taxes on various articles, a toll on slaves and gold dust brought into Fezzan, and a tribute from Ghadames. The ancient history of Tripoli is given in the article CYRENAICA. In medieval and modern times it has passed through a number of vicissitudes. In the twelfth century

it was possessed for a short time by Roger II. of Sicily, but was soon regained by the Saracens, who retained it till its conquest by the Spaniards in 1510. Charles V. gave Tripoli along with Malta to the knights of St John in 1530, but in 1551 Simon Basha conquered it for the sultan Solyman, and then first it became a Turkish pashalic. Its history since that time presents no events of importance.