TUNIS

TUNIS, one of the Barbary states in Northern Africa, forming a province of the Ottoman empire, but virtually independent, lying between N. Lat. 31. and 37., E. Long. 8. and 11., bounded on the N. and E. by the Mediterranean, S. by Tripoli and Beled-el-Jerid, and W. by Algeria. Its length is about 440 miles, its greatest breadth 160, and its area estimated at 72,000 square miles. The coastline is very irregular, and is indented with three great bays, that of Tunis on the N., and those of Hanamamet and Cabes or the Lesser Syrtis. On the E. the principal headlands are on the N. coast, Cape Blanco the most northerly point of Africa, Cape Farina, and Cape Bon, where the coast turns sharply to the S.; Ras el Melha, el Mustafa, Monastir, and Kabudia, on the E. coast. Several islands lie off the coast, the principal being Pantellaria and Lampedusa belonging to Naples, Galita which is included in Algeria, Kerkina and Jerba in the E., near the Gulf of Cabes, both belonging to Tunis. The eastern coast is in general low, sandy, and sterile, interrupted by a few rocky promontories of no great height; but the northern coast is formed, to a large extent, by high and picturesque masses of rock, rising abruptly from the sea. This is especially the case, towards the west of the country; further east broad expanses of sand in many places separate the cliffs from the sea. In the interior, mountains occupy the northern and western portions, and some of their summits rise in rugged masses to a considerable height. These form parallel chains, with broad valleys between them, extending generally from N.E. to S.W. Of these mountain-chains the most northerly is a continuation of a similar chain in Algeria, and covers the N.W. part of Tunis from the coast as far as the valley of the Mejerda, terminating near the point where that river enters the sea. Beyond this valley, and that of the Millianah to the S. of it, rises another mountain range, connected with the southern Algerian chain, and extending N.E. till it terminates at Cape Bon. This range is known at different points by the names of Jebel Usselata, Jebel Sit, and Suk el Arbar; but one of the best known and most conspicuous of its summits is that called Zauan, 4270 feet high, to the S. of Tunis. The height of the range is in some places much greater, and even as much as 7000 feet. Towards the S. it is continued by a high plateau, on which the Jebel Truzza, Jebel Zihk, and Jebel Hamada el Kissera rise. In the S.W. of the country rises another mass of mountains, whose connection with the Jebel Auras in Algeria, and its Tunisian continuation, has not been ascertained; still less with the plateau of Tripoli, from which it is probably separated by a deep valley forming the northern boundary of the latter. South of this mountain mass lies the vast rocky plain of the Beled-el-Jerid, or land of date palms, which occupies the extreme S. of Tunis. The mountainous regions in the N. of the country are watered by a number of rivers, which have their sources in the various peaks. Many of these, however, are lost in the sands, or after a short course fall into the sea; and none of them is navigable. The most important is the Mejerda, which rises in Algeria, and flows through Tunis in a direction at first N.N.E., and afterwards directly N., falling into the sea at Porto Farina. Parallel to it flows the Millianah, and the only other river of any importance is the Wed el Kebir, which flows northwards near the western boundary of the country. There are no freshwater lakes, but in the extreme S. lie two of salt-water, the Schott el Kebir, and the Schott el Gharsa, which at some seasons are united, and form one large sheet of water. There are also a few small salt lagoons along the

shore. The mountains of Tunis are for the most part composed of chalk and sandstone, and the plains in the S. are covered with a reddish sand. In general the geological features of the country are similar to those of Algeria. Gypsum, marl, and salt exist in some places. Of minerals the chief are lead, which is found at various places, especially at Beshia, and at Jebel Resas near Tunis; and quicksilver, which exists near the mouth of the Mejerda, but has never been worked. The climate is temperate and healthy, especially along the coasts, where even in the height of summer the air is cooled by the moist winds which blow regularly from the sea for a great part of the day. The winter here resembles a mild spring, and frost and snow are almost unknown. The mean annual temperature is 69° 2'; that of the winter 55° 9'; and that of the summer 83° 9'. Rain seldom falls in summer, but in winter the streams are frequent and copious. The soil is for the most part good, and produces a rich vegetation. Wheat, oats, maize, durrah, and pulse, are the crops most generally raised. Vines, olives, oranges, figs, pomegranates, and other fruits, are abundant; and cotton is grown in small quantities. The dates of Nefia are of the best quality, and the country about that place forms one vast forest of date palms. Many of these trees also grow in the south, where the cactus, too, flourishes. In the same quarter groves of cypresses, sumach, and other trees, often diversify the bare tracts of ground, which stretch to a vast extent. Agriculture is very much neglected, partly on account of the great natural fertility of the soil, and partly from the oppressions and extortions of the government. Tunis contains large numbers of cattle and of sheep with excellent wool. The horses are especially esteemed, and are used to a large extent for the French cavalry in Algeria. The dromedary is also among the animals of the country, and some of its varieties are remarkable for their speed, which exceeds that of the swiftest horses. Bees are abundant, and yield excellent honey; swans, partridges, and other birds are found, and there is a productive fishery along the coast. Coral is obtained at Tabarca and other points on the shore. The inhabitants of the rural districts of Tunis consist of various tribes of Arabs and Kabyles, who live, like the Bedouins of the east, in a wandering fashion, and are savage and inhospitable to strangers. In the towns the population has a different and very mixed character. Moors are the predominant race, but there are considerable numbers of Turks and Jews, and in the larger towns many European settlers. Although it is reckoned the most civilised of the Barbary states, yet when compared even with the least advanced countries in Europe, Tunis is in a very degraded condition. The government is an unmitigated despotism, hereditary in the family of the bey, who is only nominally subject to the Ottoman empire. The present monarch has, indeed, made some improvements by the abolition of slavery, and by an alliance with France; but very much remains to be done for the security of the country, the encouragement of agriculture and trade, and the removal of the many hindrances to the prosperity of the country, which are caused by arbitrary regulations of the government, and the oppressive conduct of its officials. The revenue is raised by taxes arbitrarily imposed, which have frequently to be collected by force. The standing army consists of 19,000 regular troops, besides a large number of irregular forces called out in time of war. The most important manufactures carried on here are those of the red caps, so much worn in the East, of coloured leather, of pottery, and of silk and woollen fabrics. Excellent woollen cloth is woven in the island of Jerba, and the potteries of Rabel are renowned. The trade of the country is considerable, and is chiefly concentrated in the towns of Tunis and Susa. The exports consist of wool, oil, wax, honey, hides, leather, red caps, dates, soap, coral, and corn;

Tunis. and the imports of cotton, cloth, alum, iron, lead, manufactured articles from England, wine and brandy from Spain, sugar, coffee, glass, arms, &c. The caravans from the interior bring senna, ostrich feathers, gold dust, gum, and ivory; in exchange for cloth, muslin, silk, leather, arms, &c. The following table shows the number, tonnage, and value of cargoes of vessels that entered and cleared at the port of Goletta, or Tunis, in 1851, 1853, and 1854.

The whole of the people, with the exception of the Jews and European settlers, profess the Mohammedan religion. Christianity, which once counted multitudes of flourishing churches here, is now unknown among the natives; and no religion has ever been more thoroughly extirpated from any part of the world than that of the cross from the country of Tertullian, Cyprian, and Augustine. The country was overrun by the armies of the Saracens in the seventh century A.D., wrested from the eastern empire, and soon after formed into an independent state; which, under various dynasties, lasted until, in 1574, the sultan Selim reduced it to subjection to the Ottoman Porte. It was governed at first by a pasha, but subsequently the people obtained permission to elect a bey. For a long time Tunis was notorious for piracy, but the efforts of the European powers to suppress this were at last successful in 1816. The population of Tunis is estimated to be from 2,500,000 to 3,000,000, of whom about 7000 are Turks, 9000 Christians, and 100,000 Jews.