VAR

VAR, a department of France, bounded on the N. by that of Basses Alpes, W. by that of Bouches-du-Rhône, S. by the Mediterranean, and E. by Nice. Its length from N.E. to S.W. is 83 miles; its greatest breadth 49; and its area 2825 square miles. The coast is bold and rocky, indented by many arms of the sea, and lined with a number of islands. The principal inlets, beginning from the E., are the bays of Juan and Napoule, opposite to which lie the

Var. Lerino islands, the gulf of Fréjus and Grimald, and the harbours of Hyères and Toulon. Off Hyères are the islands of the same name, comprehending Porquerolles, Portros, and Levant, with others of smaller size. The interior of the department is mountainous, being traversed from east to west by a branch of the Alps, which separates the valley of the Durance, an affluent of the Rhone, on the north, from the country watered by the Argens and other rivers that fall into the Mediterranean on the south; while another chain of hills, connected with the former towards the west, runs along the coast to the south of the Argens. The latter ridge is called Les Monts des Maures. Some of the hills in these ranges attain a height of more than 3000 feet above the sea. Numerous rivers water the department, but most of them are small, and none of them navigable. The Var, from which it takes its name, rises in the department of Basses Alps, and flows south-east into the Mediterranean, forming the boundary between Nice and Var. Its whole length is 70 miles, and its chief affluent is the Esteron from the right. The largest river wholly within the limits of the department is the Argens, which rises on the mountains towards the west, flows in an irregular course eastwards, and falls into the sea near Fréjus, after a course of 60 miles. It receives from the hills on either side numerous tributaries, among which are the Caillon, Calami, Bresque, Braque, Artuby, Endre, and Aille. The other streams that flow into the Mediterranean are the Loup and Siagne in the east, and the Gapou in the west of the department. The Verdon, an affluent of the Durance, forms for some distance its northern boundary; and the Durance itself at one point touches the limits of the department. Along the coast there are three small lagoons called Pesquier, Napoule, and Villepoy. The climate of the country is mild, except when the mistral, a keen wind from the north-east, blows. In summer the heat is great, and the south-east wind has an enervating effect. The geological structure of the country consists partly of primary and partly of limestone and other secondary rocks; and the most important minerals that are found here are coal, marble, porphyry, granite, and gypsum. Lead and iron were at one time worked, but these operations not proving profitable, were given up. The soil is on the whole by no means good, although in some particular places it is of great fertility; and the hilly nature of the country is not favourable to agriculture, so that the arable land in the department is not more than one-sixth of the whole area; and the corn produced only supplies about a half of the consumption. There are extensive forests, and a large proportion of the ground is quite waste. Vines and olives are cultivated to a great extent, and yield good crops, the wines of the department being much esteemed. Oranges, pomegranates, citrons, figs, peaches, and other fruits, are raised here in great abundance, and of excellent quality. The principal trees in the forests are firs, oaks, and cork-trees. Tobacco is grown in considerable quantities. There is a good deal of pasture-land, but in summer the grass is so parched up that most of the flocks are driven to the mountain-pastures in the department of Basses Alps. Sheep, goats, mules, asses, and pigs are the principal kinds of live stock; horses and cattle being few in number. Bees are kept in large numbers, and there are extensive plantations of mulberries, on which silkworms are reared. Game is abundant, and the fisheries in the rivers and in the sea are profitable; the former for sturgeon, trout, tench, carp, &c.; and the latter for sardines, tunny, and anchovies. The principal manufactures carried on are those of coarse woolen cloth, paper, leather, soap, oils, perfumery, earthenware, and marble goods. The trade is not very extensive, and the chief articles are wine, oil, fruit, timber, and fish. The department has for its capital Draguignan; and is divided into four arrondissements, as follows:—