LÜBECK, one of the free cities of Northern Germany, and the capital of a small territory, is situated on a gentle ridge between the rivers Trave and Wakenitz, 10 miles from the mouth of the former at Travemünde, and 36 miles N.E. of Hamburg. Lübeck is the capital of the four free or Hanseatic towns, and the seat of their supreme court of appeal. The court consists of six members, one of whom is chosen by each of the free towns; Frankfurt and Bremen nominate the fifth; while the sixth is named alternately once by Lübeck and twice by Hamburg. The president is chosen annually by the senates of the four towns.
The present city of Lübeck was founded in 1143 by Adolphus II., Count of Holstein and Schaumburg, by whom it was ceded in 1158 to Henry Duke of Saxony, surnamed the Lion. In 1226 it was made a free imperial city by Frederic II. At this time it was an important commercial city, and was rapidly increasing. In 1241 it entered into treaty with Hamburg, and thus laid the foundation of the Hanseatic League, of which it became the head about 1260. For four centuries Lübeck continued in a flourishing condition, and is said to have at one time contained 200,000 persons. After the dissolution of the league, which took place in 1632, it gradually fell into decay, and has never again attained its former importance. After the battle of Jena in 1806, the Prussian general, Blücher, with the remains of his army, took refuge in Lübeck, which was then stormed by the French, and sacked and pillaged for three days. In 1810 it was annexed to the French empire, and so remained till after the battle of Leipzig in 1813, when it was restored to its political independence, and subsequently joined the German Confederation as a free city. It has one vote in the full council; but in the select council it has only one in conjunction with the other free towns. Lübeck is one of the most picturesque old towns in Germany. Its streets are generally straight and regular, and its public buildings, which are mostly of brick, have undergone little change since the fifteenth century. Many of the houses are in the old-fashioned style, with their quaint gables towards the street; and not a few of them are remarkable for the richness of their architecture. The old ramparts of the town have been laid out in public walks. The finest building in Lübeck is the Marienkirche, founded in 1304. It is in the pointed Gothic style, constructed almost entirely of brick, and surmounted by two towers with spires rising to the height of 430 feet. It has three naves; the roof of the centre one rising to the unusual height of 134 feet. It contains
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numerous monuments and paintings,—the latter by Holbein, Vandyck, Overbeck, &c. The "Dance of Death," dated 1463, is remarkable as representing the costumes of the period. This church possesses a very fine organ, and has also a curious old astronomical clock, constructed in 1405. The Domkirche, or cathedral, built between 1170 and 1341, is almost entirely of brick, and has two towers surmounted by spires 300 feet high. It contains numerous monuments to bishops and others connected with Lübeck. The screen of the choir is a masterpiece of wood-carving of the early German school. In one of the side chapels is a painting by Memling representing the Passion of our Saviour in twenty-three distinct groups. The town-house, on the market-place, is a curious old Gothic brick building, completed in 1517. Here in ancient times deputies from the 85 cities in Germany composing the Hanseatic League, held their sittings. The educational and charitable institutions are numerous; besides which there are an exchange, mint, arsenal, public library with 37,000 volumes, and a theatre.
Lübeck is still a place of considerable commercial importance. It trades largely with Hamburg by means of the Trave and a canal, and also with Russia, Denmark, Sweden, and Finland. A branch line connects it with the Hamburg and Berlin Railway. Regular steam communication is kept up with Copenhagen, Stockholm, and St Petersburg. Vessels drawing not more than 9 feet of water can come up to the town, but larger vessels load and unload by means of lighters at Travemünde, between which and Lübeck small steamers are constantly plying. The chief exports are,—corn, cattle, wool, iron, and timber; imports,—wines, silks, cottons, hardware, colonial products, and dye-stuffs. In 1855, 972 vessels, carrying 55,266 lasts, entered; and 958 vessels, carrying 54,246 lasts, left the port.
The manufactures are numerous, but not large or important. Among the chief are woollen, linen, cotton, and silk goods; tobacco, soap, paper, playing-cards, musical instruments, hats; and iron, copper, and brass wares.
The territory subject to Lübeck consists of a district of about 80 square miles immediately adjacent to the city, of several small detached portions surrounded by Holstein; and of a portion of the Vierlande district; amounting in all to 127 square miles. The total population in 1851 amounted to 54,166 persons, of whom 26,096 were in the town.