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GARTER

Volume 2 · 1,280 words · 1771 Edition

a ligature for tying up the stocking; but particularly used for the badge of a noble order of knights, hence denominated the Order of the Garter, a military order of knighthood, the most noble and ancient of any lay-order in the world, instituted by Edward III. This order consists of twenty-six knights-companions, generally princes and peers, whereof the king of England is the sovereign or chief. They are a college or corporation, having a great and little seal.

Their officers are a prelate chancellor, register, king at arms, and usher of the black rod. They have also a dean with twelve canons, and petty canons, vergers, and twenty-six pensioners or poor knights. The prelate is the head. This office is vested in the bishop of Winchester, and has ever been so. Next to the prelate is the chancellor; which office is vested in the bishop of Salisbury, who keeps the seals, &c. The next is the register, who by his oath is to enter upon the registry, the scrutinies, elections, penalties, and other acts of the order, with all fidelity. The fourth officer is garter, and king at arms, being two distinct offices united in one person. Garter carries the rod and sceptre at the feast of St George, the protector of this order, when the sovereign is present. He notifies the elections of new knights, attends the solemnity of their installations, carries the garter to the foreign princes, &c. He is the principal officer within the college of arms, and chief of the heralds. See King at arms.

All these officers, except the prelate, have fees and pensions. The college of the order is seated in the castle of Windsor, with the chapel of St George, and the charter-house, erected by the founder for that purpose. The habit and ensign of the order are, a garter, mantle, cape, george, and collar. The four first were assigned the knights-companions by the founder; and the george and collar by Henry VIII. The garter (Plate LXXXVI. fig. 2. No. 1.) challenges pre-eminence. nence over all the other parts of the dress, by reason that from it the noble order is denominated; that it is the first part of the habit presented to foreign princes, and absent knights, who, and all other knights-elect, are therewith first adorned; and it is of so great honour and grandeur, that by the bare investiture with this noble ensign, the knights are esteemed companions of the greatest military order in the world. It is worn on the left leg between the knee and calf, and is enamelled with this motto, Honi soit qui mal y pense; i.e. Shame to him that thinks evil hereof. The meaning of which is, that king Edward having laid claim to the kingdom of France, retorted shame and defiance upon him that should dare to think amiss of the just enterprise he had undertaken, for recovering his lawful right to that crown; and that the bravery of those knights whom he had elected into this order, was such as would enable him to maintain the quarrel against those that thought ill of it.

The mantle (ibid. No 2.) is the chief of these vestments made use of upon all solemn occasions. The colour of the mantle is by the statutes appointed to be blue. The length of the train of the mantle only distinguishes the sovereign from the knights-companions. To the collar of the mantle is fixed a pair of long strings, anciently woven with blue silk only, but now twisted round, and made of Venice gold and silk, of the colour of the robe, with knobs, or buttons, and tassels at the end. The left shoulder of the mantle has, from the institution, been adorned with a large garter, with the device, Honi soit, &c. within this is the cross of the order, which was ordained to be worn at all times by king Charles I. At length the star was introduced, being a sort of cross irradiated with beams of silver. (ibid. No 3.)

The collar (ibid. No 4) is appointed to be composed of pieces of gold in fashion of garters, the ground enamelled blue, and the motto gold.

The manner of electing a knight companion into this most noble order, and the ceremonies of investiture are as follow. When the sovereign deigns to elect a companion of the garter, the chancellor belonging to this order draws up the letters, which, passing both under the sovereign's sign-manual and signet of the order, are sent to the person by garter principal king at arms; and are in this manner, or to the same effect: We, with the companions of our most noble order of the garter, assembled in chapter, holden this present day at our castle at Windsor, considering the virtuous fidelity you have shewn, and the honourable exploits you have done in our service, by vindicating and maintaining our right, &c. have elected and chosen you one of the companions of our order. Therefore, we require you to make your speedy repair unto us, to receive the ensigns thereof, and be ready for your installation upon the — day of this present month, &c.

The garter, which is of blue velvet bordered with fine gold-wire, having commonly the letters of the motto of the same, is, at the time of election, buckled upon the left leg, by two of the senior companions, who receive it from the sovereign, to whom it was presented upon a velvet cushion, by garter king at arms, with the usual reverence, whilst the chancellor reads the following admonition, enjoined by the statutes: "To the honour of God omnipotent, and in memorial of the blest martyr St George, tie about thy leg, for thy renown, this noble garter; wear it as the symbol of the most illustrious order, never to be forgotten or laid aside; that thereby thou mayest be admonished to be courageous; and, having undertaken a just war, in which thou shalt be engaged, thou mayest stand firm, valiantly fight, and successively conquer."

The princely garter being then buckled on, and the words of its significance pronounced, the knight elect is brought before the sovereign, who puts about his neck, kneeling, a sky-coloured ribbon, (ibid. No 5.) whereunto is appended, wrought in gold within the garter, the image of St George on horseback, with his sword drawn, encountering with the dragon. In the meantime, the chancellor reads the following admonition: Wear this ribbon about thy neck, adorned with the image of the blest martyr and solder of Christ, St George, by whose imitation provoked, thou mayst so overpass both prosperous and adverse adventures, that having stoutly vanquished thy enemies, both of body and soul, thou mayest not only receive the praise of this transient combat, but be crowned with the palm of eternal victory."

Then the knight elected kisses the sovereign's hand, thanks his majesty for the great honour done him, rises up, and salutes all the companions severally, who return their congratulations. No 2. (ibid.) exhibits a view of a knight of the garter in the habit of this order.

Since the institution of this order, there have been eight emperors, and twenty-eight kings, besides numerous sovereign princes, enrolled as companions thereof. Its origin is somewhat differently related: the common account is, that it was erected in honour of a garter of the countess of Salisbury, which she dropped dancing with king Edward, and which that prince picked up; but our best antiquaries think it was instituted on account of the victory over the French at Cressy, where the king ordered his garter to be displayed as a signal of the battle.