by the Turks called Scanderoon; a town in Syria, at the extremity of the Mediterranean sea. It is the port of Aleppo, from which it is distant 28 or 30 leagues. It is now little else but a heap of ruined houses, chiefly inhabited by Greeks, who keep tippling-houses for sailors. The air is very unwholesome; and therefore the better sort of inhabitants, during the hot weather, live at a village called Bayland, on a mountain about ten miles off, where there is wholesome water and excellent fruit. What surprizes strangers most, when they arrive at this place, are the pigeons which carry letters to Aleppo, which they reach in about three hours: these pigeons are of a singular kind *, and are very much celebrated throughout the east. E. Long. 37° 5'. N. Lat. 36° 35'.

Alexandria, now Scandaria, by Athenaeus called xippe; a city of Lower Egypt, and for a long time its capital. This city was built by Alexander the Great, soon after the overthrow of Tyre, about 333 years before Christ. It is situated on the Mediterranean, twelve miles west of that mouth of the Nile anciently Alexander is said to have been induced to build this city, on account of its being conveniently situated for a fine port; and so sudden was his resolution, that after he had directed where every public structure was to be placed, fixed the number of temples, and the deities to whom they should be dedicated, &c., there were no instruments at hand proper for marking out the walls, according to the custom of those times. Upon this, a workman advised the king to collect what meal was among the soldiers, and to lift it in lines upon the ground, whereby the circuit of the walls would be sufficiently marked out. This advice was followed; and the new method of marking out the walls was, by Arrianander, the king's footsapper, interpreted as a prefigure of the city's abounding with all the necessaries of life. Nor was he deceived in his prediction; for Alexandria soon became the staple, not only for merchandise, but also for all the arts and sciences of the Greeks.

All authors agree, that this city was very commodiously situated. Its form resembled that of a soldier's coat. The streets were wisely contrived, so as to admit the cooling breezes to refresh the air. One large beautiful street passed from gate to gate, being too feet broad, and five miles long. It had a broad and high wall round it, so as to have the sea close on one side, and a great lake on the other, with a narrow pass at each end.

The architect employed by Alexander in this undertaking, was the celebrated Diocletian, who had acquired so much reputation by rebuilding the temple of Diana at Ephesus. The city was first rendered populous by Ptolemy Soter, one of Alexander's captains, who, after the death of the Macedonian monarch, being appointed governor of Egypt, soon assumed the title of king, and took up his residence at Alexandria, about 304 years before Christ.

In the 36th year of Ptolemy Soter's reign, he took his son Ptolemy Philadelphus partner with him in the empire; and by this prince the city of Alexandria was much embellished. In the first year of his reign the famous watch-tower of Pharos was finished. It had been begun several years before by Ptolemy Soter; and, when finished, was looked upon as one of the wonders of the world. The same year, the island of Pharos itself, originally seven furlongs distant from the continent, was joined to it by a causeway. This was the work of Dexiphanes, who completed it at the same time that his son put the last hand to the tower. The tower was a large square structure of white marble; on the top of which, fires were kept constantly burning, for the direction of sailors. The building cost 800 talents; which, if Attic, amounted to L. 165,000; if Alexandrian, to twice that sum.

The architect employed in this famous structure fell upon the following contrivance to usurp the whole glory to himself.—Being ordered to engrave upon it the following inscription, "King Ptolemy to the Gods the Saviours, for the benefit of Sailors;" instead of the king's name he substituted his own, and then filling up the hollow of the marble with mortar, wrote upon it the abovementioned inscription. In process of time, the mortar being wore off, the following inscription appeared: "Sostratus the Cnidian, Alexandria, the son of Dexiphanes, to the Gods the Saviours, for the benefit of Sailors."

This year also was remarkable for the bringing of the image of Serapis from Pontus to Alexandria. It was set up in one of the suburbs of the city called Rhacotis, where a temple was afterwards erected to his honour, suitable to the greatness of that stately metropolis, and called, from the god worshipped there, Serapeum. This structure, according to Ammianus Marcellinus, surpassed in beauty and magnificence all others in the world, except the capital at Rome.—Within the verge of this temple was the famous Alexandrian library. It was founded by Ptolemy Soter, for the use of an academy he instituted in this city; and, by continual additions by his successors, became at last the finest library in the world, containing no fewer than 700,000 volumes. The method followed in collecting books for this library, was, to seize all those which were brought into Egypt by Greeks or other foreigners. The books were transcribed in the museum, by persons appointed for that purpose; the copies were then delivered to the proprietors, and the originals laid up in the library. Ptolemy Euergetes, having borrowed from the Athenians the works of Sophocles, Euripides, and Aeschylus, returned them only the copies, which he caused to be transcribed in as beautiful a manner as possible; presenting the Athenians at the same time with fifteen talents (upwards of L. 3000 Sterling) for the exchange.

As the museum was at first in that quarter of the city call Bruchion, near the royal palace, the library was placed there likewise; but when it came to contain 400,000 volumes, another library, within the Serapeum, was erected by way of supplement to it, and on that account called the daughter of the former. In this second library 300,000 volumes, in process of time, were deposited; and the two together contained the 700,000 volumes already mentioned. In the war carried on by Julius Caesar against the inhabitants of this city, the library in the Bruchion, with the 400,000 volumes it contained, was reduced to ashes. The library in the Serapeum, however, still remained; and here Cleopatra deposited 200,000 volumes of the Pergamene library, which Marc Antony presented her with. These, and others added from time to time, rendered the new library at Alexandria more numerous and considerable than the former; and though it was often plundered during the revolutions and troubles of the Roman empire, yet it was again and again repaired, and filled with the same number of books.

This library continued to be of great fame and use in these parts, till the year 642, when the Saracens made themselves masters of Alexandria. At that time, John, surnamed the grammarian, a famous Peripatetic philosopher, being in the city, and in high favour with Amri-Aboul-As, the Saracen general, begged of him the royal library. Amri replied, that it was not in his power to grant such a request; but that he would write to the khalif on that head; since, without knowing his pleasure, he dared not to dispose of a single book. He accordingly wrote to Omar, who was then khalif, acquainting him with the request of his friend: To which the ignorant tyrant replied, That if those books contained the same doctrine with the koran, they could Alexandria; he of no use, since the Koran contained all necessary truths; but if they contained any thing contrary to that book, they ought not to be suffered; and therefore, whatever their contents were, he ordered them to be destroyed. Pursuant to this order, they were distributed among the public baths; where, for the space of six months, they served to supply the fires of those places, of which there was an incredible number in Alexandria.

This city, as we have already observed, soon became extremely populous; and was embellished both by its own princes, and the Romans; but, like most other noted cities of antiquity, hath been the seat of terrible massacres. About 141 years before Christ, it was almost totally depopulated by Ptolemy Philocon. That barbarous monster, without the least provocation, gave free liberty to his guards to plunder his metropolis, and murder the inhabitants at their pleasure. The cruelties practised on this occasion cannot be expressed; and the few who escaped, were so terrified, that they fled into other countries. Upon this, Philocon, that he might not reign over empty houses, invited thither strangers from the neighbouring countries; by whom the city was repeopled, and soon recovered its former splendor. On this occasion many learned men having been obliged to fly, proved the means of reviving learning in Greece, Asia Minor, the islands of the Archipelago, and other places, where it was almost totally lost.

The new inhabitants were not treated with much more kindness than the old ones had been; for, on their complaining of his tyrannical behaviour, he resolved on a general massacre of the young men. Accordingly, when they were one day assembled in the gymnasium, or place of their public exercises, he ordered it to be set on fire; so that they all perished, either in the flames, or by the swords of his mercenaries, whom the tyrant had placed at all the avenues.

Though Julius Caesar was obliged to carry on a war for some time against this city, it seems not to have suffered much damage, except the burning of the library already mentioned. Before Caesar left Alexandria, in acknowledgment of the affluence he had received from the Jews, he confirmed all their privileges there, and even engraved his decree on a pillar of brass. This, however, did not prevent the massacre of 50,000 of them in this city about the year of Christ 67.

The city of Alexandria seems to have fallen into decay soon after this, and to have forfeited many of its ancient privileges, though for what offence is not known; but when Adrian visited Egypt, about the year 141, it was almost totally ruined. He repaired both the public and private buildings, not only restoring the inhabitants to their ancient privileges, but heaping new favours upon them; for which they returned him their solemn thanks, and conferred upon him what honours they could while he was present; but as soon as he was gone, they published the most bitter and virulent lampoons against him.

The fickle and satirical humour of the Alexandrians was highly disliked by Adrian, though he inflicted no punishment upon them for it; but when they lampooned Caracalla, he did not let them escape so easily. That tyrant, in the year 215, when he visited their city, having become the subject of their foolish satire, ordered a general massacre by his numerous troops, who were dispersed all over the city. The inhuman orders being given, all were murdered, without distinction of age or sex; so that in one night's time the whole city floated in blood, and every house was filled with carcasses. The monster, who occasioned this, had retired during the night to the temple of Serapis, to implore the protection of that deity; and, not yet satiated with slaughter, commanded the massacre to be continued all the next day; so that very few of the inhabitants remained. As if even this had not been sufficient, he rifled the city of all its ancient privileges; suppressed the academy; ordered all strangers, who lived there, to depart; and that the few who remained might not have the satisfaction of seeing one another, he cut off all communication of one street with another, by walls built for that purpose, and guarded by troops left there.

Notwithstanding this terrible disaster, Alexandria soon recovered its former splendor, as Caracalla was murdered a short time after. It was long esteemed the first city in the world, next to Rome; and we may judge of its magnificence, and the multitude of people contained in it, from the account of Diodorus Siculus, who relates, that in his time, (44 years before Christ), Alexandria had on its rolls 300,000 freemen. Nor does it seem to have been at all inferior at the time it was taken by the Saracens; for the general above mentioned seems to have been astonished at its wealth and beauty, as appears by the following passage in his letter to the khalif, mentioned by Eutychius: "I shall not pretend to give a particular description of the city I have taken, nor send you an account of all the curious and valuable things contained in it. At present it will be sufficient to observe, that I have found in it 4000 palaces; 4000 baths; 40,000 Jews that pay tribute; 400 royal Circi, or places set apart for public diversions; and 12,000 gardeners, who supply the city with all kinds of herbs in great plenty."

At this time, according to the Arabian historians, Alexandria consisted of three cities, viz. Mennoa, or the port, which included Pharos, and the neighbouring parts; Alexandria, properly so called, where the modern Scandaria now stands; and Nekita, probably the Necropolis of Josephus and Strabo.

After the city was taken, Amri, the Saracen general, thought proper to pursue the Greeks who had fled farther up the country; and therefore marched out of Alexandria, leaving but a very slender garrison in the place. The Greeks, who had before fled on board their ships, being apprised of this, returned on a sudden, surprized the town, and put all the Arabs they found therein to the sword; but Amri, receiving advice of what had happened, suddenly returned, and drove them out of it with great slaughter; after which the Greeks were so intimidated, that he had nothing farther to fear from them.—A few years after, however, Amri being deprived of his government by the khalif Othman, the Egyptians were so much displeased with his dismission, that they inclined to a revolt; and Constantine, the Greek emperor, having received intelligence of their disaffection, began to meditate the reduction of Alexandria. For this purpose, he sent one Manuel, an eunuch, and his general, with a powerful army, to retake that place; which, by the alliance of the Greeks in the city, who kept a secret correspondence Alexandria, dence with the imperial forces while at sea, and joined them as soon as they had made a descent, he effected, without any considerable effusion of Christian blood. The khalif, now perceiving his mistake, immediately restored Amri to his former dignity. This step was very agreeable to the natives; who having had experience of the military skill and bravery of this renowned general, and apprehending that they should be called to an account by the Greeks for their former perfidious conduct, had petitioned Othman to send him again into Egypt.—Upon Amri's arrival, therefore, at Alexandria, the Copts, or natives, with the traitor Al-Mokawkas (who had formerly betrayed to Amri the fortres of Meir) at their head, not only joined him, but supplied him with all kinds of provisions, exciting him to attack the Greeks without delay. This he did; and, after a most obstinate dispute which lasted several days, drove them into the town, where, for some time, they defended themselves with great bravery, and repelled the utmost efforts of the besiegers. This so exasperated Amri, that he swore, "If God enabled him to conquer the Greeks, he would throw down the walls of the city, and make it as easy of access as a burying-house, which lies open to every body." Nor did he fail to execute this menace; for having taken the town by storm, he quite dismantled it, entirely demolishing the walls and fortifications. The lives of the citizens, however, were spared, at least as far as lay in the general's power; but many of them were put to the sword by the soldiery on their first entrance. In one quarter particularly, Amri found them butchering the Alexandrians with unrelenting barbarity; to which, however, by his reasonable interposition, he put a stop, and on that spot erected a mosque, which he called the mosque of mercy.

From this time Alexandria never recovered its former splendor. It continued under the dominion of the khalifs till the year 924, when it was taken by the Magrebians, two years after its great church had been destroyed by fire. This church was called by the Arabs Al-Kafarisa, or Cefarea; and had formerly been a pagan temple, erected in honour of Saturn, by the famous queen Cleopatra.

The city was soon after abandoned by the Magrebians; but in 928 they again made themselves masters of it: their fleet being afterwards defeated by that belonging to the khalif, Abul-Kafem; the Magrebian general retired from Alexandria, leaving there only a garrison of 300 men; of which Tomadi, the khalif's admiral, being apprised, he in a few days appeared before the town, and carried off the remainder of the inhabitants to an island in the Nile called Abuakair. This was done, to prevent Abul-Kafem from meeting with any entertainment at Alexandria, in case he should think proper to return. According to Eutychius, above 200,000 of the miserable inhabitants perished this year.

What contributed to raise Alexandria to such a prodigious height of splendor as it enjoyed for a long time, was, its being the centre of commerce between the Eastern and Western parts of the world. It was with the view of becoming master of this lucrative trade, that Alexander built this city, after having extirpated the Tyrians, who formerly engrossed all the East-India traffic. Of the immense riches which that trade afforded, we may form an idea, from considering that the Romans accounted it a point of policy to oppress the Egyptians, especially the Alexandrians; and after the defeat of Zenobia, there was a single merchant of Alexandria who undertook to raise and pay an army out of the profits of his trade. The Greek emperors drew prodigious tributes from Egypt, and yet the khalifs found their subjects in so good circumstances as to forego their revenues to three hundred millions of crowns.

Though the revolutions which happened in the government of Egypt, after it fell into the hands of the Mahometans, frequently affected this city to a very great degree; yet still the excellence of its port, and the innumerable conveniences resulting from the East-India trade, to whomsoever were masters of Egypt, preferred Alexandria from total destruction, even when in the hands of the most barbarous nations. Thus, in the 13th century, when the barbarism introduced by the Goths, &c., began to wear off from the European nations, and they acquired a taste for the elegancies of life, the old mart of Alexandria began to revive; and the port, though far from recovering its former magnificence, grew once more famous by becoming the centre of commerce: but having fallen under the dominion of the Turks, and the pallage round the Cape of Good Hope being discovered by the Portuguese in 1499, a fatal blow was given to the Alexandrian commerce, and the city has since fallen into decay.

At present, the city of Alexandria is reckoned to have about 14,000 or 15,000 inhabitants; a strange coluvies of different nations, as well as from various parts of the Turkish empire. They are in general given to thieving and cheating; and (like their predecessors,) seditious above all others, were they not kept in awe by the severity of their government. The British and French carry on a considerable commerce with them, and have each a consul residing here. Some Venetian ships also sail thither yearly, but with French colours, and under the protection of France. The subjects of those kingdoms which keep no consul here, are subjected to a tax by the Grand Signior; but the Jews have found out a method of indemnifying themselves for this disadvantage; namely, by selling their commodities cheaper than other foreigners can afford. They are also favoured by the farmers of the revenue; who know, that, if they do not pay some private regard to them, the Jews have it in their power to cause fewer merchandizes come into their port during the two years that their farm lasts.

The city is governed like others in the same kingdom*. It hath a small garrison of soldiers, part of which are Janifaries and Affaics; who are very haughty and insolent, not only to strangers, but to the mercantile and industrious part of the people, though ever so considerable and useful. The government is so remiss in favour of these wretches, that Mr. Norden informs us, one of them did not hesitate to kill a farmer of the customs, for refusing to take leave of him than the duty imposed, and went off unpunished; it being a common falso among them, that what is done cannot be undone.

The present condition of Alexandria is very deplorable, being now so far ruined, that the rubbish in many places overtops the houses. The famous tower of Pharos has long since been demolished; and a castle, called Farillon, built in its place. The causeway which joined the ALE

the island to the continent is broken down, and its place supplied by a stone-bridge of several arches.

Some parts of the old walls of the city are yet standing. They are flanked with large towers, about 200 paces distant from each other, with small ones in the middle. Below are magnificent catacombs, which may serve for galleries to walk in. In the lower part of the towers is a large square hall, whose roof is supported by thick columns of Theban stone. Above this are several rooms, over which there are platforms more than 20 paces square.

The next piece of antiquity is the pillar of Pompey, said to be built by Julius Caesar in commemoration of his victory at Pharsalia. It stands upon an eminence, about 200 paces from the city, and is placed upon a square pedestal about seven or eight feet high; and the pedestal stands upon a square base, one of whose sides is 20 feet. Sandys says, it is 36 palms round, and 86 in height, each palm consisting of nine inches. The shaft is a single stone, by some called Theban marble, by others granite. On the top is a very fine capital. It is hard to say what machines they had in former times to raise such a vast stone as this; for Theronot, in his last visit, by measuring the shadow, found it to be 75 royal feet of Paris, which is equal to 80 English. A few paces from hence stood Caesar's palace: but the remains are only a few porphyry pillars, and the front, which is almost entire, and looks very beautiful. The palace of Cleopatra was built upon the walls facing the port, having a gallery on the outside, supported by several fine columns. Not far from Cleopatra's palace are two obelisks: one of these is thrown down, and almost buried in the sand; and though the other stands upright, the pedestal is hid by the sand that surrounds it. They are of granite; and each of the four sides are covered with hieroglyphics. About 70 paces from Pompey's pillar, is the khalis, or the canal of the Nile, which was dug by the ancient Egyptians, to convey the water of the Nile to Alexandria, and fill the cisterns under the city. On the side of the khalis, are gardens full of orange and lemon trees, and the fields are full of caper and palm trees. On the top of a hill is a tower, on which a sentinel is always placed, to give notice, by means of a flag, of the ships that are coming into the port. From this hill may be seen the sea, the whole extent of the city, and the parts round it.

On the south-west side of the city, at a mile's distance, there are catacombs cut out of a rock, to enter which persons must creep upon all fours; but the roof is ten feet high: on each side are sepulchres, cut out of the rock, of which there are four rows one above another. The bones in these places were very hard and looked very fresh. Over-against this there is another, that runs a long way, but will not admit a man to stand upright. These were, doubtless, burying-places belonging to the city. The Romans called such places catacombs. Alexandria is about 50 leagues north of Cairo. E. Long. 31. 15. N. Lat. 31. 12.