otherwise called the shire of Wick, is the most northern county of all Scotland; bounded on the east by the ocean, by Strathnaver and Sutherland on the south and south-west; from these it is divided by the mountain Orde, and a continued ridge of hills as far as Knockfin, then by the whole course of the river Hallowdale. On the north it is washed by the Pentland or Putland frith, which flows between this county and the Orkneys. It extends 35 miles from north to south, and about 20 from east to west. The coast is rocky, and remarkable for a number of bays and promontories. Of these, the principal are Sandside-head to the west, pointing to the opening of Pentland frith; Orcas, now Holborn-head, and Donnot-head, both pointing northward to the frith. Donnothead is a peninsula about a mile broad, and seven in compass; affording several lakes, good pasture, excellent mill-stones, and a lead-mine. Scribiterbay, on the north-west, is a good harbour, where ships may ride securely. Rice-bay, on the east side, extends three miles in breadth; but is of dangerous access, on account of some sunk rocks at the entrance. At the bottom of this bay appear the ruins of two strong castles, the feet of the earl of Caithness, called Castle Sinclair, and Gernego, joined to each other by a draw-bridge. Duncan's bay, otherwise called Dunfry-head, is the north-east point of Caithness, and the extremity promontory in Britain. At this place, the breadth of the frith does not exceed 12 miles, and in the neighbourhood is the ordinary ferry to the Orkneys. Here is likewise Clythe Ness pointing east, and Nothead pointing north-east. The sea in this place is very impetuous, being in continual agitation from violent counter-tides, currents, and vortices. The only island belonging to this county is that of Strom, in the Pentland frith, at the distance of two miles from the main land, extending about a mile in length, and producing good corn. The navigation is here rendered very difficult by conflicting tides and currents, which at both ends of the island produce a great agitation in the sea. At the south end, the waves dance so impetuously, that the sailors term them the merry men of May, alluding to the house of one Mr May, on the opposite shore of Caithness, which served them as a land-mark, in the dangerous passage between the island and the continent. The property of this island was once disputed between the earls of Orkney and Caithness; but adjudged to the latter, in consequence of an experiment, by which it appeared, that venomous creatures will live in Strom, whereas they die immediately if transported to the Orkneys. The county of Caithness, though chiefly mountainous, flattens towards the sea-coast, where the ground is arable, and produces good harvests of oats and barley, sufficient for the natives, and yielding a superplus for exportation; but the soil being generally a moist clay, and the climate cold, the harvest is late, and the corn counted inferior in quality to that which is raised in the neighbouring counties. Indeed, the country is better adapted for pasture, and as such is turned to the best advantage. Caithness is well watered with small rivers, brooks, lakes, and fountains, and affords a few woods of birch, but is in general bare of trees; and even those the inhabitants plant, are stunted in their growth. Lead is found at Dennet, copper at Old-Urk, and iron ore at several places; but these advantages are not improved. The air of Caithness is temperate, tho' in the latitude of 58°, where the longest day in summer is computed at 18 hours; and when the sun sets, he makes so small an arch of a circle below the horizon, that the people enjoy a twilight until he rises again. The fuel used by the inhabitants of Caithness consists of peat and turf, which the ground yields in great plenty. The forest of Moravina and Berridale afford abundance of red deer and roe-deer: the country is well stored with hares, rabbits, grouse, heathcocks, plover, and all sorts of game, comprehending a bird called snow-fleet, about the size of a sparrow, exceedingly fat and delicious, that comes hither in large flights about the middle of February, and takes its departure in April. The hills are covered with sheep and black cattle; so numerous, that a fat cow has been sold at market for 4s. sterling. The rocks along the coasts are frequented by eagles, hawks, and all manner of sea-fowl, whose eggs and young are taken in vast quantities by the natives. The rivers and lakes abound with trout, salmon, and eels; and the sea affords a very advantageous fishery. Divers obelisks and ancient monuments appear in this district, and several Roman chapels are still standing. Caithness is well peopled with a race of hardy inhabitants, who employ themselves chiefly in fishing, and breeding sheep and black cattle; they are even remarkably industrious; for between Wick and Dumbuth, one continued track of rugged rocks, extending 12 miles, they have forced several little harbours for their fishing boats, and cut artificial steps from the beach to the top of the rocks, where they have erected houses, in which they cure and dry the fish for market.

According to Mr Pennant, this county is supposed to send out in some years 2200 head of black cattle, but in bad seasons the farmer kills and sells great numbers for sale. Great numbers of swine are also reared here. These are short, high-backed, long bridled, sharp, slender, and long-nosed; have long erect ears, and most savage looks. Here are neither barns nor granaries: the corn is threshed out, and preserved in the chaff in byks; which are flasks, in the shape of beehives, thatched quite round, where it will keep good for two years. Vast numbers of salmon are taken at Castle-hill, Dunet, Wick, and Thurso. A miraculous draught at this last place is still talked of, not less than 2500 being taken at one tide within the memory of man; and Mr Smollet informs us, that, in the neighbourhood, above 300 good salmon have been taken at one draught of the net. In the month of November, great numbers of seals are taken in the caverns that open pen into the sea, and run some hundreds of yards under ground. The entrance of these caverns is narrow, but the inside lofty and spacious. The seal-hunters enter them in small boats with torches, which they light as soon as they land, and then with loud shouts alarm the animals, which they kill with clubs as they attempt to pass. This is a hazardous employment; for should the wind blow hard from sea, these adventurers are inevitably lost. Sometimes a large species of seals, 12 feet long, have been killed on this coast; and it is said the same kind are found on the rock Hiskir, one of the western islands. During the spring, great quantities of lump-fish resort to this coast, and are the prey of the seals, as appears from the number of skins of those fishes which at that season float ashore. At certain times, also, the seals seem to be visited by a great mortality; for, at those times, multitudes of them are seen dead in the water. Much limestone is found in this country, which when burnt is made into a compost with turf and sea-plants. The common people are kept in great servitude, and most of their time is given to the lairds, an invincible impediment to the prosperity of the country. The women are also condemned to a shameful drudgery; it not being uncommon to see them trudging in droves of 60 or 70 to the fields with baskets of dung on their backs, which are filled at pleasure from the dunghills by their lords and masters with their pitchforks.

The last private war in Scotland was occasioned by a dispute relating to this county. An earl of Breadalbane married an heiress of Caithness; the inhabitants would not admit her title, but set up another person in opposition. The earl, according to the custom of those times, designed to assert his right by force of arms; he raised an army of 1500 men; but thinking the number too great, he dismissed first one 500, and then another. With the remainder he marched to the borders of Caithness. Here he thought proper to add stratagem to force. He knew that the enemy's army waited for him on the other side of the promontory of Ord. He knew also, that whisky was then the nectar of Caithness; and therefore ordered a ship laden with that precious liquor to pass round, and wilfully strand itself on the shore. The directions were punctually obeyed; and the crew in a seeming fright escaped in the boats to the invading army. The Caithness men made a prize of the ship; but making too free with the freight, became an easy prey to the earl, who attacked them during their intoxication, and gained the country, which he disposed of very soon after his conquest.