a city of Mid-Lothian in Scotland, and capital of the whole kingdom; situated in Edinburghshire, W. Long. 3°. N. Lat. 56°.

The origin of the name of Edinburgh, like that of most other cities, is obscure and uncertain. Some think it is derived from Ete, supposed to be a king of the Picts; others from Edwin, a Saxon prince of Northumberland, who, about the year 617, overran great part of the Pictish territories; others choose to derive it from two Gaelic words, Dun Edin, which signify the face of a hill.—The name Edinburgh itself, however, seems to have been unknown in the time of the Romans. The most ancient title by which we find this city distinguished, is that of Castrum Mynyd Agned; which, in the British language, signifies "the fortres of the hill of St Agnes." Afterwards it was named Castrum Puellarum, because the Pictish princesses were educated in the castle (a necessary protection in those barbarous ages) till they were married.—The ages in which these names were given, cannot indeed now be exactly ascertained; but the town certainly cannot boast of very great antiquity, since, as Mr Whitaker informs us, the celebrated king Arthur fought a battle on the spot where it is situated, towards the end of the fifth century.

The Romans, during the time they held the dominion of part of this island, divided their possessions into five provinces. The most northerly of these was called Valonia, which comprehended all the space between the walls of Adrian and Severus. Thus, Edinburgh, lying on the very outskirts of that province which was most exposed to the ravages of the barbarians, became uncertainly subject to wars and devastations; by means of which, the time of its first foundation cannot now be guessed at.

The castle is certainly very ancient. It continued in the hands of the Saxons or English from the invasion of Oda and Ethel in the year 452, till the defeat of Egfrid king of Northumberland in 685 by the Picts, who then repented themselves of it. The Saxon kings of Northumberland reconquered it in the 9th century, and it was retained by their successors till the year 956, when it was given up to Indulphus king of Scotland. In 1093 it was unsuccessfully besieged by the usurper Donald Bane. Whether the city was at that time founded or not, is uncertain. Most probably it was: for as protection from violence was necessary in those barbarous ages, the castle of Edinburgh could not fail of being an inducement to many people to settle in its neighbourhood; and thus the city would gradually be founded, and increase.—In 1128, king David I. founded the Abbey of Holyroodhouse, for certain canons regular; and granted them a charter, in which he styled the town, Burgus meo de Edvingburg, "my borough of Edinburgh." By the same charter he granted these canons 40 shillings yearly out of the town revenues; and likewise 48 shillings more, from the same, in case of the failure of certain duties payable from the king's revenue; and likewise one half of the tallow, lard, and hides, of all the beasts killed in Edinburgh.

In 1174, the castle of Edinburgh was surrendered to Henry II. of England, in order to purchase the liberty of king William I. who had been defeated and taken prisoner by the English. But when William recovered his liberty, he entered into an alliance with Henry, In 1215, this city was first distinguished by having a parliament and provincial synod held in it. In 1296, the castle was besieged and taken by Edward I. of England; but was recovered from the English in 1313 by Randolph earl of Moray, who was afterwards regent of Scotland during the minority of king David II. At last king Robert destroyed this fortress, as well as all others in Scotland, lest they should afford shelter to the English in any of their after incursions into Scotland. It lay in ruins for a considerable number of years; but was afterwards rebuilt by Edward III. of England, who placed a strong garrison in it. In 1341 it was retaken by stratagem, and the English were finally driven out of the kingdom.

Towards the end of the 14th century, the city of Edinburgh began to be considered as the capital of Scotland. King Robert I. in 1329, had bestowed upon the burgesses, the town of Edinburgh, with the harbour and mills of Leith. His great grandson, John earl of Carrick, who afterwards assumed the name of Robert III., conferred on all the burgesses of Edinburgh the singular privilege of building houses to themselves within the castle, without any other limitation than that they should be persons of good fame. In 1461, the inhabitants received Henry VI. of England when exiled, with such humanity, that, in requital, he granted them liberty to trade in all the English ports, subject only to the duties which were paid by the citizens of London; but as Henry was never restored to the throne, this grant proved of no use.

Till the year 1542, nothing remarkable occurs in the history of Edinburgh. At that time a war was commenced with Henry VIII. of England through the treachery of cardinal Beaton. An English fleet of 200 sail entered the Forth; and having landed their forces, quickly made themselves masters of the towns of Leith and Edinburgh. They next attacked the castle, but were repulsed from it with loss; and by this they were so enraged, that they not only destroyed the towns of Edinburgh and Leith, but laid waste the country for a great way round. These towns, however, speedily recovered from their ruinous state; and in 1547, Leith was again burned by the English after the battle of Pinkney, but Edinburgh was spared.

Several disturbances happened in this capital at the time of the reformation; but nothing of consequence till the year 1570. A civil war had commenced a few years before, on occasion of queen Mary's forced resignation. The regent, who was one of the contending parties, bought the castle from the perfidious governor for 5000l. and the priory of Pittenweem. He did not, however, long enjoy the fruits of this infamous bargain. Sir William Kirkaldy, the new governor, a man of great integrity and bravery, declared for the queen. The city in the mean time was sometimes in the hands of one party, and sometimes of another; during which contentions, the inhabitants, as may easily be imagined, suffered extremely. In the year 1570 above-mentioned, queen Elizabeth sent a body of 1000 foot and 300 horse, under the command of Sir William Drury, to assist the king's party. The castle was summoned to surrender; and several skirmishes happened during the space of two years, in which a kind of predatory war was carried on. At last a truce was agreed on till the month of January 1573; and this opportunity the earl of Morton, now regent, made use of to build two bulwarks across the high-street, nearly opposite to the tolbooth, to defend the city from the fire of the castle.

On the first of January, early in the morning, the governor began to cannonade the city. Some of the cannon were pointed against the fish-market; and the bullets falling among the fishes, scattered them about in a surprising manner; and even drove them up so high in the air, that they fell down upon the tops of the houses. This unusual spectacle having brought a number of people out of their houses, some of them were killed, and others dangerously wounded. Some little time afterwards, several houses were set on fire by shot from the castle, and burned to the ground; which greatly enraged the people against the governor. A treaty was at last concluded between the leaders of the opposite factions; but Kirkaldy refused to be comprehended in it. The regent therefore solicited the affiance of queen Elizabeth, and Sir William Drury was again sent into Scotland with 1500 foot, and a train of artillery. The castle was now besieged in form, and batteries raised against it in different places. The governor defended himself with great bravery for 33 days; but finding most of the fortifications demolished, the well choked up with rubbish, and all supplies of water cut off, he was obliged to surrender. The English general, in the name of his mistress, promised him honourable treatment; but the queen of England shamefully gave him up to the regent, by whom he was hanged.

Soon after this, the spirit of fanaticism which somehow or other succeeded the reformation, produced violent commotions, not only in Edinburgh, but thro' the whole kingdom. The foundation of these disturbances, and indeed of most others which have ever happened in Christendom on account of religion, was that pernicious maxim of Popery, that the church is independent of the state. It is not to be supposed that this maxim was at all agreeable to the sovereign; but such was the attachment of the people to the doctrines of the clergy, that king James found himself obliged to compound matters with them. This, however, answered the purpose but very indifferently; and at last such furious uproars were excited, that the king thought proper to declare Edinburgh an unfit place of residence for the court, or the administration of justice. In consequence of this declaration, he commanded the college of justice, the inferior judges, and the nobility and barons, to retire from Edinburgh; and not to return without express license. This unexpected declaration threw the whole town into consternation, and brought back the magistrates and principal inhabitants to a sense of their duty. With the clergymen it was far otherwise. They railed against the king in the most furious manner; and endeavouring to persuade the people to take up arms, the magistrates were ordered to imprison them; which, however, they escaped by a timely flight. A deputation of the most respectable burgesses was then sent to the king at Linlithgow, with a view to mitigate his resentment. But he refused to be pacified; and, on the last day of December 1596, entered the town between two rows of his soldiers. Edinburgh. diers who lined the streets, while the citizens were commanded to keep within their houses. A convention of the estates was held in the tolbooth, before whom the magistrates made the most abject submissions, but all in vain. The convention declared one of the late tumults, in which an attack had been made upon the king's person, to be high treason; and ordained that, if the magistrates did not find out the authors, the city itself should be subjected to all the penalties due to that crime. It was even proposed to raze the town to the foundation, and erect a pillar on the spot where it had stood, as a monument of its crimes. The inhabitants were now reduced to the utmost despair; but queen Elizabeth interposing in behalf of the city, the king thought proper to abate somewhat of his rigour. A criminal prosecution, however, was commenced, and the town council were commanded to appear at Perth by the first of February. On their petition, the time for their appearance was prolonged to the first of March; and the attendance of 13 of the common-council was declared sufficient, provided they had a proper commission from the rest. The trial commenced on the fifth day of the month; and one of the number having failed in his attendance, the cause was immediately decided against the council: they were declared rebels, and their revenues forfeited.

For 15 days the city continued in the utmost confusion; but at last, on their earnest supplication, and offering to submit entirely to the king's mercy, the community were restored, on the following conditions, which they had formerly proffered: That they should continue to make a most diligent search for the authors of the tumult, in order to bring them to condign punishment; that none of the sedulous ministers should be allowed to return to their charges, and no others admitted without his majesty's consent; and that in the election of their magistrates, they should present a list of the candidates to the king and his lords of council and session, whom his majesty and their lordships might approve or reject at pleasure. To these conditions, the king now added some others; viz., that the houses which had been possessed by the ministers should be delivered up to the king; and that the clergymen should afterwards live dispersed through the town, every one in his own parish: That the town-council house should be appointed for accommodating the court of exchequer; and that the town should become bound for the safety of the lords of session from any attempts of the burgesses, under a penalty of 40,000 merks; and lastly, that the town should immediately pay 20,000 merks to his majesty.

Upon these terms a reconciliation took place. The king, in a short time, suffered the degraded ministers to be replaced, and nothing remarkable happened till the reign of king Charles I. It was in the city of Edinburgh that the disturbances about religion commenced; which ended not but with the death of that unhappy monarch, and the total subversion of the British constitution. Here the covenants were framed, and the rest of those violent and enthusiastic measures concerted, an account of which is given under the article BRITAIN, no 76, &c.

From this time, to the present, the history of Edinburgh scarce affords anything worthy of notice, except the remarkable execution of John Porteous, captain of the city-guard, in 1736. This was conducted in a tumultuous manner, but at the same time with such impenetrable secrecy as must render it memorable to the latest posterity. The origin of the whole affair was the execution of a smuggler in the grafs-market. Some disturbance being raised on this occasion, captain Porteous ordered his men to fire among the mob which usually assembles in such cases. By the discharge of their muskets six people were killed, and eleven dangerously wounded; and for this offence, Porteous was prosecuted at the city's expense; and after trial, sentenced to die. King George II. happening to be at that time in Hanover, queen Caroline was regent in his absence, who reprieved the criminal. This highly enraged the people; who, considering the unprovoked cruelty of Porteous, (or perhaps for some other reasons), did not think him a proper object of mercy. On the night before that on which his execution should have taken place according to his sentence, a number of people assembled from different quarters variously disguised. They surprised and disarmed the town-guard, and took possession of the city-gates to prevent the entrance of troops who were quartered in the suburbs. They then proceeded to the prison; the doors of which, being too strong to be broke open, they burnt, and dismissed all the prisoners, Porteous alone excepted. The magistrates endeavoured to disperse them; but they were pelted with stones, and threatened to be fired upon. General Moyle was requested by the member of parliament for the city, to send a body of troops to the assistance of the magistrates; but this he refused, because no written order could be procured for that purpose. In the mean time, Porteous was conducted to the Grafs-market, near to the place where the people had been killed: there the ringleaders of the affair, having broke open a shop, and paid for a coil of ropes, hanged him upon a dyer's sign-post; after which, the whole body dispersed without committing any other disorder.

This was highly resented, and considered as an insult to government. A pardon was promised to the offenders provided they would discover their accomplices; and a reward of 200l. was offered for every person so discovered; but notwithstanding all the inquiry that could be made, there hath not, to this day, transpired the least intelligence concerning the matter, nor even the name of a single person who had a hand in it. The vengeance of government then fell upon the magistrates of Edinburgh. The lord provost was taken into custody, and confined almost three weeks before he was admitted to bail. He was then ordered to attend the house of lords, along with four bailies of Edinburgh, and three of the lords of judiciary. These last, after some debate, were ordered to attend the bar in their robes. The house first took into consideration the legality of the sentence by which Porteous had been condemned. Both the sentence of the court, and the verdict of the jury, were censured by some of the members, and a motion was made to declare them erroneous; but, by a majority of voices, both the sentence and verdict were fully justified. A bill was then brought in for imprisoning the provost of Edinburgh for a full year, disabling him for ever from bearing any public office in that city, or any other in Great Britain; for abolishing the city-guard, and taking down down the gate at the Netherbow-ports. This bill passed the house of lords without any amendment. When sent down to the house of commons, the imprisonment of the provost, the abolishing of the city-guard, and the taking down of the gate, were left out; and in place of these, a fine of £2000 was imposed on the city, to be applied to the use of Porteous's widow; and with this amendment the bill passed with the majority of a single voice.—To prevent such catastrophes in time coming, the town-council enacted, that, on the first appearance of an insurrection, the chief officers in the different societies and corporations should repair to the council, to receive the orders of the magistrates for the quelling of the tumult, under penalty of £1. 6s. 8d. for each omission.

In 1745, the city was invested by the Pretender's army; and on the 17th of September, the Netherbow-gate being opened to let a coach pass, a party of Highlanders, who had reached the gate undiscovered, rushed in, and took possession of the city. The inhabitants were commanded to deliver up their arms at the palace of Holyroodhouse; a certain quantity of military stores were required from the city, under pain of military execution; and an affixture of £2. 6d. upon the pound was imposed upon the rents within the city and suburbs, for defraying that expense.

The Pretender's army guarded all the avenues to the castle; but no signs of hostility ensued till the 25th of the month, when the garrison being alarmed from some unknown cause, a number of cannon were discharged at the guard placed at the West-port, but with very little effect. This gave occasion to an order to the guard at the weigh-house, to prevent all intercourse between the city and castle; and then the governor acquainted the provost by letter, that unless the communication was prevented, he would be obliged to dislodge the guard by means of artillery. A deputation was next sent to the Pretender, acquainting him with the danger the city was in, and intreating him to withdraw the guard. With this he refused to comply; and the Highland sentinels firing at some people who were carrying provisions into the castle, a pretty smart cannonading ensued, which fell on fire several houses, killed some people, and did other damage. The Pretender then consented to dismiss the guard, and the cannonading ceased.—After the battle of Culloden, the provost of Edinburgh was obliged to stand a very long and severe trial, first at London and then at Edinburgh, for not defending the city against the rebels; which, from the situation and extent of the walls, every one must have seen to be impossible. At last, however, he was exculpated; and, since that time, no other differences have happened between the government and magistrates of Edinburgh.

The rebellion in 1745 put a temporary stop to the existence of the city of Edinburgh as a body corporate. The time for electing magistrates happened while the town was in possession of the rebels, so that the election could not be held; and thus, for a whole year, Edinburgh was left destitute of any civil government.—Application, however, was made to the king for restoring the government. He was graciously pleased to grant their request, and the election of magistrates proceeded accordingly. The following year they addressed his majesty on the suppression of the rebellion, and presented the duke of Cumberland with the freedom of the city inclosed in a gold box.—Since that time, the city hath remained free from every kind of trouble; hath flourished in a remarkable manner; and been enlarged and embellished with many new and fine buildings, of which an account is given in the subsequent description.

Edinburgh is situated upon a steep hill, rising from the east to west, and terminating in a high and inaccessible rock, upon which the castle stands. At the east end of the town, or lower extremity of this hill, stands the abbey of Holyrood-house, or king's palace, distant from the castle upwards of a mile; and betwixt which, along the top of the ridge, and almost in a straight line, runs the high-street. On each side, and parallel to this ridge or hill, is another ridge of ground lower than that in the middle, and which does not extend so far to the east; that on the south being intercepted by Salisbury-rocks, and Arthur's-seat, a hill of about 650 feet of perpendicular height; and that on the north by the Calton-hill, considerably lower than Arthur's-seat; so that the situation of this city is most singular and romantic; the east or lower part of the town lying between two hills; and the west or higher part rising up towards a third hill, little inferior in height to the highest of the other two, upon which, as has been observed, the castle is built, and overlooks the town.

The buildings of the town terminate at the distance of about 200 yards from the castle-gate; which space affords a most delightful as well as convenient and healthful walk to the inhabitants. The prospect from this spot is perhaps the finest anywhere to be met with, for extent, beauty, and variety.

In the valley or hollow betwixt the mid and south ridge, and nearly parallel to the high-street, is another street called the Cowgate; and the town has now extended itself over most part of that fourth ridge also. Betwixt the mid and north ridge was a loch, which, till very late, terminated the town on that side. From the high-street towards the loch on the north, and Cowgate on the south, run narrow cross streets or lanes, called wynds and closes, which grow steeper and steeper the farther west or nearer the castle; so that, were it not for the closeness and great height of the buildings, this city, from its situation and plan, might naturally be expected to be the best aired, as well as the coolest, in Europe. The first, notwithstanding these disadvantages, it enjoys in an eminent degree; but we cannot compliment it upon the latter, notwithstanding every possible means has been used by the magistrates for that purpose.

The steepness of the ascent makes the access to the high-street from the north and south very difficult; and has no doubt greatly retarded the enlargement of this city. To remedy this inconvenience on the north, and with a view to extend the town on that quarter, a most elegant bridge has been thrown over the north loch, which joins the north ridge to the middle of the high-street, by so easy an ascent as one in fifteen; and in pursuance of the design, a plan of a new town to the north was fixed upon, and has for several years past been carrying into execution with an elegance and taste that does honour to this country.

The gradual increase of the city of Edinburgh may in some degree be understood from the traces of its ancient walls that still remain. James II. in 1450, first bestowed on the community the privilege of fortifying the city with a wall, and empowered them to levy a tax upon the inhabitants for defraying the expense.

When the city was first fortified, the wall reached no further than the present water-house, or reservoir, on the castle-hill; from thence to the foot of Halkerton's wynd, just below the new-bridge, the city was defended by the north-loch; an inconsiderable morass, which, being formerly overflowed, formed a small lake, that hath since been drained. From this place to the foot of Leith-wynd, it doth not appear how the city was fortified, but from the foot of Leith-wynd to the netherbow-port, it was defended only by a range of houses; and when these became ruinous, a wall was built in their place. The original wall of Edinburgh, therefore, began at the foot of the north-east rock of the castle. Here it was strengthened by a small fortress, the ruins of which are still to be seen, and are called the well-bow tower, from their having a spring in their neighbourhood.

When it came opposite to the reservoir, it was carried quite across the hill, having a gate on the top for making a communication between the town and castle. In going down the hill, it went slanting in an oblique direction to the first angle in going down the west-bow; where was a gate named the Upper-bow port, one of the hooks of which still remains. Thence it proceeded eastward in such a manner, as would have cut off not only all the Cowgate, but some part of the parliament-house; and being continued as far as the mint-closet, it turned to the north-east, and connected itself with the buildings on the north-side of the high street, where was the original Netherbow port, about 50 yards west from that which afterwards went by the same name.

Soon after the building of this wall, a new street was formed on the outside of it, named the Cowgate, which in the 16th century became the residence of the nobility, the senators of the college of justice, and other persons of the first distinction. After the fatal battle of Flodden, however, the inhabitants of the Cowgate became very anxious to have themselves defended by a wall as well as the rest. The wall of the city was therefore extended to its present limits. This new wall begins on the south-east side of the rock on which the castle is built, and to which the town-wall comes quite close. From thence it extends obliquely to the west port; then ascends part of a hill on the other side, called the High Riggs; after which, it runs eastwards, with but little alteration in its course, to the Briffo and Potter-row ports, and from thence to the Pleasance. Here it takes a northerly direction, which it keeps from thence to the Cowgate-port; after which the inclosure is completed to the Netherbow by the houses of St Mary wynd. The original Netherbow-port being found not well adapted for defence was pulled down, and a new one built in 1571 by the adherents of queen Mary. In 1606, the late handsome building was erected about 50 yards below the place where the former stood. It was two stories high, and had an elegant spire in the middle; but being thought to encumber the street, and the whole building being in a crazy situation, it was pulled down by order of the magistrates in 1764.

In the original wall of Edinburgh there was, as has been already observed, a port on the castle-hill. On the extension of the wall, after building the houses in the Cowgate, this gate was pulled down. That in the upper or west bow, stood for a much longer time, and was pulled down within the memory of some persons still living. Besides these, there was a third, about 50 yards above the head of the Canongate; but whether there were any more, is uncertain. The ports or gates of the new walls are, 1. The West-port, which is situated at the extremity of the Grass-market; beyond which lies a suburb of the town and a borough of regality, called Peryborough. Next to this is a wicket, struck out of the town-wall in 1744, for the purpose of making an easier communication between the town and the public walks in the meadows, than by Bristolport. The next to this is Bristol-port, built in 1515; beyond which lies a suburb called Bristol-street. At a small distance from Bristol, is the Potterrow-port, which took this name from a manufactory of earthen ware in the neighbourhood. Formerly it was called Kirk of Field Port. Between this and the Cowgate port stood another, called St Mary Wynd Port, which extended from east to west across the foot of the Pleasance, and which was demolished only since the middle of the last century.—Close to the place where this port was, stands the Cowgate-port, which opens a communication between the Cowgate and St Mary's Wynd, and the Pleasance.—The Netherbow-port has been already spoke of.—At the foot of Leith-wynd was another gate, known by the name of Leith-wynd port; and within it was a wicket giving access to the church of Trinity College, and which still remains. At the foot of Halkerton's-wynd was another, which, as well as the former, was built about the year 1560. Both were pulled down some years ago.—Another still remains at the foot of the Canongate, known by the name of the Water-gate.

For 250 years the city of Edinburgh occupied the same space of ground, and it is but very lately that its limits have been so considerably enlarged. In the middle of the 16th century, it is described as extending in length about an Italian mile, and about half as much in breadth; which answers very nearly to its present limits, the late enlargements only excepted.—This space of ground, however, was not at that time occupied in the manner it is at present. The houses were neither so high nor so crowded upon each other as they are now. This was a consequence of the number of inhabitants increasing, which has occasioned the raising of the houses to such an height as is perhaps not to be paralleled in any other part of the world. Till the time of the Reformation, the burying ground of the city extended over all the space occupied by the Parliament-square, and from thence to the Cowgate. The lands lying to the southward of the Cowgate were chiefly laid out in gardens belonging to the convent of Black-friars, and the church of St Mary in the Field. These extended almost from the Pleasance to the Potterrow-port. From the Bristol to the West Port, the ground was laid out in gardens belonging to the Gray-friars. The magistrates, on their application to queen Mary, obtained a grant of the Gray-friars gardens for a burying place; for which it was given as a reason, that they were somewhat distant from the town. Here, however, it must be understood, that these gardens were distant from the houses, and not without the walls; for they had been enclosed by them long before.—In the time of James I., the houses within the walls seem to have been in general, if not universally, covered with thatch or broom; and not above 20 feet high. Even in the year 1624, these roofs were so common, that they were prohibited by act of parliament, in order to prevent accidents from fire.—In the middle of the last century, there were neither courts nor squares in Edinburgh. The Parliament close or square is the oldest of this kind in the city. Milne's square, James's court, &c. were built long after; and Argyle's and Brown's squares within these 30 years.

The New Town was projected in the year 1752; but as the magistrates could not then procure an extension of the royalty, the execution of the design was suspended for some time. In 1767, an act was obtained, by which the royalty was extended over the fields to the northward of the city; upon which, advertisements were published by the magistrates, desiring proper plans to be given in. Plans were given in accordingly, and that designed by Mr. James Craig architect was adopted. Immediately afterwards, people were invited to purchase lots from the town-council; and such as purchased, became bound to conform to the rules of the plan. In the meantime, however, the town-council had secretly referred to themselves a privilege of departing from their own plan; which they afterwards made use of in such a manner as produced a law-suit. According to the plan laid forth to the purchasers, a canal was to be made through that place where the north-loch had been, and the bank on the north side of it laid out in terraces; but, instead of this, by an act of council, liberty was referred to the town to build upon this spot; and therefore, when many gentlemen had built genteel houses in the new town, on faith of the plan, they were surprised to find the spot appointed for terraces and a canal, beginning to be covered with mean irregular buildings, and work-houses for tradesmen. This deviation was immediately complained of; but as the magistrates showed no inclination to grant any redress, a prosecution was commenced against them before the Lords of Session. In that court the cause was given against the purchasers, who thereupon appealed to the House of Lords. Here the sentence of the court of session was reversed, and the cause remitted to the consideration of their lordships. At last, after an expensive contest, matters were accommodated. The principal term of accommodation was, that some part of the ground was to be laid out in terraces and a canal; but the time of disposing it in that manner, was referred to the lord president of the court of session and the lord chief baron of the exchequer.—The fall of the bridge proved a very considerable disadvantage to the new town; as it necessarily induced a suspicion that the passage, by means of the bridge, could never be rendered safe. An oversight of the magistrates proved of more essential detriment. A piece of ground lay to the southward of the old town, in a situation very proper for building. This the magistrates had an opportunity of purchasing for £200l.; which, however, they neglected, and it was bought by a private person, who immediately fenced it out in lots for building. The Edinburgh magistrates then foresaw the consequence, namely, that this spot being free from the duties to which the royalty of Edinburgh is subject, people would choose to reside there rather than in the new town. Upon this they offered the purchaser £200l. for the ground for which he had paid £200l.; but as he demanded £20,000l., the bargain was not concluded.—Notwithstanding these discouragements, the new town hath made a very considerable progress; and from the advantages of its situation, and its being built according to a regular plan, it hath undoubtedly a superiority over any city in Britain. By its situation, however, it is remarkably exposed to storms of wind, which, at Edinburgh, sometimes rage with uncommon violence.

The most remarkable public buildings of Edinburgh are,

1. The Castle. This stands on a high rock, accessible only on the east side. On all others it is very steep, and the public buildings, in some places perpendicular. It is about 300 feet high from its base; so that, before the invention of artillery, it might well have been deemed impregnable; though the event showed that it was not.—The entry to this fortress is defended by an outer barrier of palliades; within this is a dry ditch, draw-bridge, and gate, defended by two batteries which flank it; and the whole is commanded by an half-moon mounted with brass cannon, carrying balls of 12 pounds. Beyond these are two gate-ways, the first of which is very strong, and has two portcullises. Immediately beyond the second gateway, on the right hand, is a battery mounted with brass cannon, carrying balls of 12 and 18 pounds weight. On the north side are a mortar and some gun batteries.—The upper part of the castle contains several half-moon batteries, a chapel, a parade for exercise, and a number of houses in the form of a square, which are laid out in barracks for the officers. Besides this there are other barracks, which are able to contain 1000 men; a powder-magazine bomb-proof; a grand arsenal, capable of containing 8000 stand of arms; and other apartments for the same use, which can contain 22,000 more; so that 30,000 stand of arms may be conveniently lodged in this castle.—On the east side of the square above-mentioned, were formerly royal apartments, in one of which king James VI. was born, and which is still shewn to those who visit the castle. In another, the regalia of Scotland were deposited on the 26th of March 1707, and are said to be still kept there; but they are never shown to any body.

The castle is defended by a company of invalids, and four or five hundred men belonging to some marching regiment, though it can accommodate 1000, as above-mentioned; and this number has been sometimes kept in it. It hath a governor, fort-major, gunner, store-master, &c. &c.—Its natural strength of situation was not able to render it impregnable, even before the invention of artillery, as we have already observed. Much less would it be able to secure it against the attacks of a modern army well provided with cannon. It could not, in all probability, withstand, even for a few hours, a well directed bombardment; for no part but the powder-magazine is capable of resisting these destructive machines; and the splinters from the rock rock on which the castle is built, could not fail to render them still more formidable. Besides, the water of the well, which is very bad, and drawn up from a depth of 100 feet, is apt to subside on the continued discharge of artillery, which produces a concussion in the rock.

2. The palace of Holyrood-house is of a quadrangular form, and bears some resemblance to that of Hampton court. In the centre is a court surrounded with piazzas. The front is two stories high; the roof flat; but at each end the front projects, and is ornamented with circular towers at the angles. Here the building is much higher, and the rest of the palace is three stories in height. Over the door of the front is a clock and small cupola, the roof of which is an imperial crown in stone-work. The north-west towers were built by James V. for his own residence; his name is still to be seen below a niche in one of these towers. During the minority of queen Mary, this palace was burned by the English; but soon after repaired, and enlarged beyond its present size. At that time it consisted of five courts, the most westerly of which was the largest. It was bounded on the east by the front of the palace, which occupied the same space it does at present; but the building itself extended further to the south.

At the north-west corner was a strong gate, with Gothic pillars, arches, and towers, part of which was but lately pulled down.—Great part of the palace was burned by Cromwell's soldiery; but it was repaired, and altered into the present form, after the Restoration. The fabric was planned by Sir William Bruce, a celebrated architect, and executed by Robert Mylne, mason.—The only apartments worthy of notice, are those now possessed by the duke of Hamilton, heritable keeper of the palace. In the second floor are queen Mary's apartments; in one of which her own bed remains. It is of crimson damask, bordered with silk tassels and fringes, but now almost reduced to rags. Close to the floor of this room is a piece of wainscot which hangs upon hinges, and communicates with a trap-flair that goes down into the apartment below. Through this passage the conspirators rushed in who murdered David Rizzio; and towards the outer door are thrown some large dusty spots in the floor, said to be occasioned by his blood, which could not be washed out.—The environs of the palace afford an asylum for insolvent debtors; and adjoining to it is an extensive park, all of which is a sanctuary.

3. Heriot's Hospital owes its foundation to one George Heriot, a goldsmith, who, in the days of James VI. acquired by his business (being goldsmith to the king and queen) a large fortune. At his death, he left the magistrates of Edinburgh £3,625 l. 10s. "for the maintenance, relief, and bringing up of so many poor and fatherless boys, freemasons sons of the town of Edinburgh," as the above sum should be sufficient for. This hospital is finely situated on the west end of the south ridge, almost opposite to the castle, and is perhaps the most magnificent building of the kind in Edinburgh. It was founded in July 1628, Edinburgh, according to a plan (as is reported) of Inigo Jones; but the work being interrupted by the civil wars, it was not finished till the year 1650. The expense of the building is said to have been upwards of £30,000.* and the hospital is still possessed of an income of about £1,000 a-year; though this cannot be absolutely ascertained, as the rents are paid in grain, and of course must be fluctuating.—When Cromwell took possession of Edinburgh after the battle of Dunbar, he quartered his sick and wounded soldiers in this hospital. It was applied to the same purpose till the year 1658, when general Monk, at the request of the governors, removed the soldiers; and on the 11th of April 1659, it was opened for the reception of boys, 30 of whom were admitted into it. The August after, they were increased to 40; and in 1661, to 52. In 1753 they were raised to 130, and in 1763 to 140; but the number has since that time decreased.—In this hospital the boys are instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, and a knowledge of the Latin tongue. With such as chuse to follow any kind of trade, an apprentice-fee of 50l. is given when they leave the hospital; and those who chuse an academical education, have an annuity of 10l. a-year bestowed on them for four years.

4. Watson's Hospital is an institution of the same kind with Heriot's; but the building is much less magnificent. The funds are also less. They were in all £12,000, left by George Watson in 1723 for endowing an hospital; which, however, was not carried into execution till the year 1738, when the above-mentioned sum, with the interest accumulated during that time, amounted to £20,000. About 60 boys are at present educated in Watson's hospital. On their being put out apprentices, 20l. of apprentice-fee is paid with them; or if they chuse to go to college, they receive 10l. for five years. On their attaining the age of 25 years, if they have behaved properly, and not contracted marriage without consent of the governors, they receive a bounty of 50l. The funds of this hospital amount to £1700l. a-year.

5. The Orphan Hospital was planned in 1732 by Andrew Gardiner merchant, and other inhabitants. It was promoted by the society for propagating Christian knowledge, by other societies, voluntary subscriptions, and a collection at the church-doors.—In 1733, the managers hired a house, took in 30 orphans, maintained them, gave them instructions in reading and writing, and taught them the weaving bobbins. In 1735, they were erected into a body corporate by the town of Edinburgh: and, in 1742, obtained a charter of erection from his late majesty, appointing most of the great officers of state in Scotland, and the heads of the different societies in Edinburgh, members of this corporation; with powers to them to hold real property to the amount of £1000l. a-year. The revenue is inconsiderable; but the institution is supported by the contributions of charitable persons, and

* It is to be observed, that money then bore 10l. per cent. interest.—The above sums are taken from Mr Arnot's History of Edinburgh, who subjoins the following note. "Where Maitland had collected his most erroneous account of George Heriot's effects, we do not know. He makes the sum received, out of Heriot's effects, by the governors of the hospital, to be £43,608l. 11s. 3d., being almost double of what they really got. This blunder has been the cause of many unjust murmurings against the magistrates of Edinburgh, and even the means of spiriting up law-suits against them." and collections at the church-doors. Into this hospital orphans are received from any part of the kingdom. None are admitted under seven, nor continued in it after 14 years of age. About 100 orphans are maintained in it.

6. The Merchants Maiden Hospital was established by voluntary contribution about the end of the last century, for the maintenance of young girls, daughters of the merchants burgesses of Edinburgh. The governors were erected into a body corporate, by act of parliament, in 1707. The annual revenue amounts to £350l. Seventy girls are maintained in it; who, upon leaving the house, receive 3l. 6s. 8d. excepting a few who are allowed 8l. 6s. 8d. out of the funds of the hospital. The profits arising from work done in the house are also divided among the girls, according to their industry.

7. The Trades Maiden Hospital was founded in the year 1704 by the incorporations of Edinburgh, for the maintenance of the daughters of decayed members, on a plan similar to that of the merchants hospital. To this, as well as to the former, one Mrs Mary Erskine, a widow gentlewoman, contributed so liberally, that she was by the governors styled joint founder of the hospital. Fifty girls are maintained in the house, who pay of entry-money 1l. 13s. 4d.; and, when they leave it, receive a bounty of 5l. 11s. 13d. The revenues are estimated at 600l. a-year.

8. The Trinity Hospital. This was originally founded and amply endowed by king James II's queen. At the Reformation, it was stripped of its revenues; but the regent afterwards bestowed them on the provost of Edinburgh, who gave them to the citizens for the use of the poor. In 1585, the town-council purchased from Robert Pant, at that time provost of Trinity college, his interest in these subjects; and the transaction was afterwards ratified by James VI. The hospital was then repaired, and appointed for the reception of poor old burgesses, their wives, and unmarried children, not under 50 years of age. In the year 1700, this hospital maintained 54 persons; but, since that time, the number has decreased.—The revenue consists in a real estate of lands and houses, the gross rent of which is 762l. a-year; and 5500l. lent out in bonds at 4 per cent.

Besides these charitable institutions, there are also three charity work-houses; one belonging to the town, another to the Canongate, and the third to the West-kirk parish. They maintain, in all, about 900 men, women, and children.

9. The Royal Infirmary was first thought of by the college of physicians in 1725. A fishing company happening to be dissolved at that time, the partners contributed some of their stock towards the establishment of the infirmary. A subscription was also set on foot, and application made to the general assembly to recommend the same throughout their jurisdiction. This was readily complied with, and the assembly passed an act for that purpose; but very little regard was paid to it by the clergy. Notwithstanding this, however, 2000l. being procured, a small house was opened for the reception of the sick poor in August 1729. In 1736, the contributors towards the infirmary were erected into a body corporate by royal statute; and after this the contributions increased very considerably; by which means, the managers were enabled to enlarge their scheme from time to time; and at last to undertake the present magnificent structure, the foundation of which was laid in 1758. During 25 years, when this institution was in its infancy, Lord Hopetoun be-fellowed upon it an annuity of 400l. In 1750, Doctor Archibald Ker bequeathed to this corporation an estate of 200l. a-year in the island of Jamaica. In 1755, the lords of the treasury made a donation to it of 8000l., which had been appointed for the support of invalids. In return for this, the managers of the infirmary constantly keep 60 beds in readiness for the reception of sick soldiers. This year also sick servants began to be admitted into the infirmary, and a ward was fitted up for their reception.

This institution, however, was more indebted to George Drummond, Esq.; than to any other person. He was seven times chosen lord provost of Edinburgh, and always directed his attention to the improvement of the city, particularly to that of the royal infirmary. So sensible were the managers of their obligations to him, that, in their hall, they erected a bust of him with this inscription, "George Drummond, to whom this country is indebted for all the benefit which it derives from the Royal Infirmary."—In 1748, the stock of the infirmary amounted to 5000l.; in 1755, to 7076l.; besides the estate left by Doctor Ker; in 1764, to 23,261l.; and in 1778, to 27,074l.

The royal infirmary is attended by two physicians chosen by the managers, who visit their patients daily in presence of the students. All the members of the college of surgeons are also obliged to attend in rotation, according to seniority. If any surgeon declines attendance, he is not allowed to appoint a deputy; but the patients are committed to the care of one of four assistant surgeons, chosen annually by the managers.—From the year 1762 to 1769, there were admitted 6264 patients; which number added to 109 who were in the hospital at the commencement of the year 1762, made, in all, 6370. Of these, 4394 were cured; 358 died; the rest were either relieved, dismissed incurable, for irregularities, or by their own desire, or remained in the hospital.—From 1770 to 1775, the patients annually admitted into the infirmary were, at an average, 1567; of whom 63 died. In 1776, there were admitted 1668, of whom 57 died; and in 1777, the number admitted was 1593, and of deaths 52.

The building consists of a body and two wings, each of them three stories high, with an attic story and garrets, and a very elegant front. The body is 210 feet long, and 36 broad in the middle, but at the ends only 24 feet broad. The wings are 70 feet long, and 24 broad. In the centre is a large stair-case, so wide that sedan chairs may be carried up. In the different wards, 228 patients may be accommodated, each in a different bed. There are cold and hot baths for the patients, and also for the citizens; and to these last the patients are never admitted.

10. The Bridge. The first stone of this building was laid by provost Drummond in 1763; but the contract for building it was not signed till August 21st 1765. The architect was Mr William Mynhe, who agreed with the town-council of Edinburgh to finish the work for 10,140l. and to uphold it for 10 years. It was also to be finished before Martinmas 1769; but, on the 3d The front of the building directly faces the bridge, extends from east to west 200 feet, and is 40 feet back from the line of Prince's street. In the middle of the front is a small projection of three windows in breadth. Here is a pediment, having in its centre the arms of Great Britain, and the whole is supported by four Corinthian pilasters. At each end is a tower projecting beyond the rest of the building, having a Venetian window in front, and a cupola on the top. The front is ornamented from end to end with a beautiful Corinthian entablature. In the centre of the building is a dome of wooden work covered with lead. The inside forms a saloon 50 feet diameter, and 80 high, lighted at top by a copper window 15 feet in diameter. The whole number of apartments is 97; all of which are vaulted beneath, and warmed with fire-places. The building is executed according to a plan of Mr Adams architect; and when finished, may vie with any modern building whatsoever. The whole expense is estimated at £25,000.

12. The Theatre. Entertainments of the dramatic kind came very early into fashion in this country. They were at first only representations of religious subjects, and peculiarly designed to advance the interests of religion; the clergy being the composers, and Sunday the principal time of exhibition. In the sixteenth century, the number of play-houses was so great, that it was complained of as a nuisance, not only in Edinburgh, but throughout the kingdom. They soon degenerated from their original institution; and the plays, instead of being calculated to inspire devotion, became filled with all manner of buffoonery and indecency.—After the reformation, the presbyterian clergy complained of these indecencies; and being actuated by a spirit of violent zeal, anathematized every kind of theatrical representation whatever. King James VI. compelled them to pass from their censures against the stage; but, in the time of Charles I., when fanaticism was carried to the utmost length at which perhaps it was possible for it to arrive, it cannot be supposed that stage-plays would be tolerated. On the Restoration, when people were ready to fall into the other extreme, stage-plays were not only revived, but many improvements made, among which that of introducing women on the stage was none of the least.—It seems, however, that amusements of this kind were again introduced at Edinburgh about the year 1684, when the duke of York kept his court there. His residence at Edinburgh drew off one half of the London company, and plays were acted in Edinburgh for some little time. The misfortunes attending the duke of York, however, and the establishment of the presbyterian religion (the genius of which is unfavourable to amusements of this kind), soon put a stop to the progress of the stage, and no theatrical exhibition was heard of in Edinburgh till after the year 1715. The first adventurer was Signora Violante, an Italian, remarkable for feats of strength, tumbling, &c. In this way the first exhibited in a house at the foot of Carrubber's close, which has since been employed by different sectaries for religious purposes. Meeting with good success, she soon invited a company of comedians from London; and these being also well received, Edinburgh continued for some years to be entertained with the performances of a strolling company, who visited it annually. Becoming at last, however, The musical society was first instituted in the year Edinburgh, 1728. Before that time, several gentlemen had formed a weekly club at a tavern kept by one Steil, a great lover of music, and a good singer of Scots songs. Here the common entertainment consisted in playing on the harpsichord and violin the concertos and sonatas of Handel, just then published.—The meeting, however, soon becoming numerous, they instituted, in the year above-mentioned, a society of 70 members, for the purpose of holding a weekly concert. The affairs of the society are regulated by a governor, deputy-governor, treasurer, and five directors, who are annually chosen by the members. The meetings have been continued ever since that time on much the same footing as at first, and the number of members is now increased to 200.

14. The Church of St Giles is a beautiful Gothic building, measuring in length 206 feet. At the west end, its breadth is 110; in the middle, 129; and at the east end, 76 feet. It has a very elevated situation, and is adorned with a lofty square tower, encircled at top with ornaments of open figured stonework, like those that adorn the circle of an imperial crown. From the sides and corners of the tower, rise arches of stonework; which, meeting with each other in the middle, complete the figure of an imperial crown, the top of which terminates in a pointed spire. The whole height of this tower is 161 feet.

This is the most ancient church in Edinburgh. From a passage in an old author called Simon Dunelmensis, some conjecture it to have been built before the year 854; but we do not find express mention made of it before 1359. The tutelar saint of this church, and of Edinburgh, was St Giles, a native of Greece. He lived in the fifth century, and was descended of an illustrious family. On the death of his parents, he gave all his estate to the poor; and travelled into France, where he retired into a wilderness near the conflux of the Rhone with the sea, and continued there three years. Having obtained the reputation of extraordinary sanctity, various miracles were attributed to him; and he founded a monastery in Languedoc, known long after by the name of St Giles's.—In the reign of James II. Mr Preston of Gorton, a gentleman whose descendants still possess an estate in the county of Edinburgh, got possession of the arm of this saint; and the relique he bequeathed to the church of Edinburgh. In gratitude for this donation, the magistrates granted a charter in favour of Mr Preston's heirs, by which the nearest heir of the name of Preston was entitled to carry it in all processions. At the same time, the magistrates obliged themselves to found an altar in the church of St Giles's, and appoint a chaplain for celebrating an annual mass for the soul of Mr Preston; and likewise, that a tablet, containing his arms, and an account of his pious donation, should be put up in the chapel.—St Giles's was first simply a parish-church, of which the bishop of Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, in the county of Northumberland, was patron. He was succeeded in the patronage by the abbot and canons of Dunfermline, and they by the magistrates of Edinburgh. In 1466, it was erected into a collegiate church by James III.—At the Reformation, the church was, for the greater convenience, divided into several parts. The four principal ones are appro-

Edinburgh, however, obnoxious to the clergy, they were, in 1527, prohibited by the magistrates from acting within their jurisdiction. But this interdict was suspended by the court of session, and the players continued to perform as usual.

Still, however, theatrical entertainments were but rare. The town was visited by itinerant companies only once in two or three years. They performed in the Taylor's hall in the Cowgate; which, when the house was full, would have drawn (at the rate of 2s. 6d. for pit and boxes, and 1s. 6d. for the gallery) 40l. or 45l. a night. About this time an act of parliament was passed, prohibiting the exhibition of plays, except in a house licensed by the king. Of this the presbytery of Edinburgh immediately laid hold; and at their own expense brought an action on the statute against the players. The cause was, by the court of session, decided against the players; who thereupon applied to parliament for a bill to enable his majesty to license a theatre in Edinburgh. Against this bill, petitions were presented, in 1729, to the house of commons, by the magistrates and town-council, the principal and professors of the university, and the dean of guild and his council; in consequence of which, the affair was dropped. All this opposition, however, contributed in reality to the success of the players; for the spirit of party being excited, a way of evading the act was easily found out, and the house was frequented more than usual, insomuch that Taylor's hall was found insufficient to contain the number of spectators.

The comedians now fell out among themselves, and a new play-house was erected in the Canongate in the year 1746. The consequence of this was, that the old one in Taylor's hall became entirely deserted, and through bad conduct the managers of the new theatre soon found themselves greatly involved: at last, a riot ensuing, through dissensions among the performers, the play-house was totally demolished.—When the extension of the royalty, over the spot where the new town is built, was obtained, a clause was likewise added to the bill, enabling his majesty to license a theatre in Edinburgh. This was obtained, and thus the opposition of the clergy for ever silenced: but the success of the theatre has not been great; nor is it at present on a respectable footing, mostly owing to the embarrassed circumstances of the managers; who, paying no less than 500 guineas per annum to Mr Ross the patentee, are unable to decorate the theatre as it ought to be, to retain good actors, or to provide a suitable wardrobe.—The Edinburgh theatre, internally, is simple, commodious, and elegant: externally, it hath neither beauty nor elegance; and is situated in such a manner as to obstruct the view of the register-office, which is, without exception, the handsomest building about Edinburgh.

13. The Concert-Hall is situated in Niddry's wynd, a central part of the town, and was built in 1762. The plan was drawn by Sir Robert Mylne (architect of Blackfriars bridge); after the model of the great opera theatre at Parma. The musical room is of an oval form, the ceiling being a concave elliptical dome, lighted from the top by a lanthorn. The seats are ranged in the form of an amphitheatre; and are capable of containing 500 persons, besides leaving a large area in the middle of the room. The orchestra is at the upper end, and is terminated by an elegant organ. appropriated to divine worship, the lesser ones to other purposes. The chief of these divisions is called the New Church. In it are the king's seat, those of the provost and magistrates, &c. At the same time also, the religious utensils belonging to this church were seized by the magistrates. They were,—St Giles's arm, enshrined in silver, weighing five pounds three ounces and an half; a silver chalice, or communion-cup, weighing 23 ounces; the great eucharist or communion cup, with golden veiwe and flowers; two cruets of 25 ounces; a golden bell, with a heart of four ounces and a half; a golden unicorn; a golden pix, to keep the holy; a small golden heart, with two pearls; a diamond ring; a silver chalice, patine, and spoon, of 32 ounces and a half; a communion table-cloth of gold brocade; St Giles's coat, with a little piece of red velvet which hung at his feet; a round silver eucharist; two silver centers, of three pounds fifteen ounces; a silver ship for incense; a large silver cross, with its base, weighing sixteen pounds thirteen ounces and a half; a triangular silver lamp; two silver candlesticks, of seven pounds three ounces; other two, of eight pounds thirteen ounces; a silver chalice gilt, of 20½ ounces; a silver chalice and cross, of 75 ounces; besides the priest's robes, and other vestments, of gold brocade, crimson velvet embroidered with gold, and green damask.—These were all sold, and part of the money applied to the repairs of the church; the rest was added to the funds of the corporation.—The other presbyterian churches in Edinburgh are, the Trinity-college church; the Old and New Gray-friars; the Tron-church; Lady Yester's; Canongate; St Cuthbert's; Chapel of Ease; Lady Glenorchy's; and the Earle church.

15. The English Chapel. This building stands near the Cowgate-port, and was begun on the 3d of April 1771. The foundation-stone was laid by general Oughton, with the following inscription: "Ecclesiæ Episc. Anglicæ, primum posuit lapidem, J. Adolphus Oughton, in architectoniæ scæ Scotiae repub. Cario maximus, millium praefectus, Georgio III. tertio Apr. die A.D. MDCCLXXI."—It is a plain, handsome building, neatly fitted up in the inside, and resembling in form the church of St Martin's in the Fields, London. It is 90 feet long, 75 broad, and ornamented with a neat spire of a considerable height. The spire is furnished with an excellent bell, formerly belonging to the chapel-royal at Holyrood-house. This is permitted to be rung for assembling the congregation; an indulgence which is not granted to the presbyterians in England. This building has already cost 600l. besides 800l. for the area: it still wants two porticoes; one of which, on the south, is meant to consist of lofty Corinthian pillars, supporting a pediment; and the expenses of these are estimated at 1000l. more.

Besides the above-mentioned places appointed for religious worship, there were formerly a number of others, which are now either dilapidated, or entirely ruined. The principal of these are,

16. Church of St Mary in the field, and Monastery of Black-friars.—The church of St Mary was a large handsome building, in which a provost and ten prebendaries officiated. It is probable, that both the church and convent were founded in the reign of Alexander II. in 1230. The convent was built almost on the same spot where the high-school stands at present. The Edinburgh church stood where the college does now. The convent and church, with the houses of the provost and prebendaries, occupied almost all the space between the Cowgate and Potterrow. The lane, now called Black-friar's wynd, was also the property of these ecclesiastics, and took its name from them. The monastery was burned down in 1528, but was rebuilt at the Reformation; soon after which, the ecclesiastics were stripped of all their possessions. The magistrates obtained them from James VI.; and were also impowered to dispose of them, and apply the fees-duties towards building and endowing an hospital at Trinity-college church. The lands formerly belonging to this church of St Mary, and monastery of Black-friars, are now chiefly occupied by the college, high-school, church of Lady Yester, royal infirmary, and surgeons-hall.

17. St Mary's Chapel. This chapel was founded by Elizabeth countess of Rothes in 1503, and stands near the middle of Niddry's wynd. It was dedicated "To God, and the Virgin Mary his mother." About the year 1600, one Chalmers, a maker before the court of session, acquired a right to this chapel; and, in 1618, the corporations of wrights and masons, now known by the name of the "United Incorporations of Mary's Chapel," purchased the subject which they still possess, and where they hold the meetings of the corporations.

18. Hospital of our Lady. This was founded, near the foot of Leith wynd, in 1479, by Thomas Spens bishop of Aberdeen, for the maintenance of 12 poor men. These poor men, however, must certainly have been maintained by the contributions of the public; for the rents with which the hospital was endowed, did not exceed 12l. sterling. At the Reformation, the town-council of Edinburgh became proprietors of this hospital. In 1619, it was converted into a work-house, and had the name of Paul's work bestowed upon it, which name it still retains.—At the same time, the council brought five men from Holland to instruct indigent boys and girls in the manufacture of coarse woollen stuffs. The manufacture, however, did not succeed; upon which it was converted into a correction-house. At last it was sold to one Mr McDowall, who carries on in it a considerable manufacture of broad cloths.

19. St Thomas's Hospital was founded by George Creichton bishop of Dunkeld, in the reign of James V. The building joined immediately to the Water-gate upon the well. It was dedicated to God, the Virgin Mary, and all the saints. Among the charitable purposes for which it was instituted, one was, That prayers might be said in it for the soul of the founder, and of the king of the Scots, as well as some other persons mentioned in the institution. The patronage was vested in the founder himself, and a certain number of his heirs named by him. In 1617, the hospital was disposed of by the chaplains and headmen, with consent of the patron, to the bailies of the Canongate, to be used as an hospital for the poor of that district. In 1634, the patronage was sold to the kirk-session; but till with a view to the same charitable purposes. By degrees, the revenues of it came to be entirely embezzled. In 1747, the building was converted into coach-houses; and, in 1778, having become ruinous, it was entirely pulled down, and rebuilt as private houses. 20. Monastery of St Catherine of Sienna. This lay on the south side of the meadows, and was founded by Lady St Clair of Rossin. It was a monastery of Dominican nuns; but, at the Reformation, the magistrates seized the revenues of the monastery, and cruelly turned out the poor women to the wide world; nor would they, till compelled by queen Mary, allow them the smallest subsistence even out of their own funds. The neighbourhood of this monastery is now called the Sheens; probably a corruption of the word Sienna.

21. Chapel of St Leonard's, and St Mary of Placentia. The first of these stood on the east side of the road to Dalkeith. The lands belonging to it were, by king James VI., granted to the magistrates of the Canongate for the support of Thomas's hospital. The land in its neighbourhood still bears the name of St Leonard's hill. A part of it belongs to the quakers, who use it for a burying ground; another part is used for burying children who have died without baptism, and persons who have put an end to their own life.—Higher to the city, at a small distance from the southeast angle of the town-wall, stood a priory of nuns dedicated to St Mary of Placentia. This street still bears the name of the Pleasants, or Pleasance; probably corrupted from Placentia.

22. Monastery of Holy-rood House. This was founded by king David I. in 1128, and called Holy-rood House, in memory, as is said, of his deliverance from an enraged hart, by the miraculous interposition of a cross from heaven. This monastery he gave to the canons regular of St Augustine; on whom he also bestowed the church of Edinburgh castle, with those of St Cuthbert's, Corstorphine, and Liberton, in the shire of Midlothian, and of Airth in Stirlingshire; the priories of St Mary's in Galloway, of Blantyre in Clydesdale, of Rowallan in Ross, and three others in the Western Isles. To them he also granted the privilege of erecting a borough between the town of Edinburgh and the church of Holy-rood House. From these canons it had the name of the Canongate, which it still retains. In this new borough they had a right to hold markets. They had also portions of land in different parts, with a most extensive jurisdiction, and right of trial by duel, and fire and water ordeal. They had also certain revenues payable out of the exchequer, and out of other funds, with fishings, and the privilege of erecting mills on the water of Leith, which still retain the name of Canongate mills. Other grants and privileges were bestowed by succeeding sovereigns; so that it was deemed the richest religious foundation in Scotland. At the Reformation, its annual revenues were, 442 bolls of wheat, 640 bolls of bear, 560 bolls of oats, 500 capons, two dozen of hens, as many salmon, 12 loads of salt; besides a great number of swine, and about £50 sterling in money. At the Reformation, the superiority of North Leith, part of the Pleasance, the barony of Broughton, and the Canongate, was vested in the earl of Roxburgh; and were purchased from him by the town-council of Edinburgh in 1636. In 1544, the church suffered considerably by the invasion of the English; but was speedily repaired. At the Restoration, king Charles II., ordered the church to be set apart as a chapel-royal, and prohibited its use as a common parish-church for the future. It was then fitted up in a very elegant manner. A throne was erected for the sovereign, and 12 stalls for the knights of the order of the thistle; but as mass had been celebrated in it in the reign of James VII., and it had an organ, the presbyterians, at the revolution, entirely destroyed its ornaments, and left nothing but the bare walls.—Through time, the roof of the church became ruinous; on which the duke of Hamilton represented its condition to the barons of exchequer, and craved that it might be repaired. This request was complied with; but the architect and mason who were employed, covered the roof with thick flag-stones, which soon impaired the fabric; and on the 2d of December 1768, the roof of the church fell in. Since that time, no attempt has been made to repair it, and it is now entirely fallen to ruin.

23. The Observatory. The scheme of building an observatory was first adopted in the year 1736; but the disturbance occasioned by the Porteous mob, prevented any thing from being done towards the execution of it at that time. The earl of Morton afterwards gave 100l. for the purpose of building an observatory, and appointed Mr M'Laurin professor of mathematics, together with the principal and some professors of the university, trustees for managing the sum. Mr M'Laurin added to the money above-mentioned, the profits arising from a course of lectures which he read on experimental philosophy, which, with some other small sums, amounted in all to 300l.; but Mr M'Laurin dying, the design was dropped.—Afterwards the money was put into the hands of two persons who became bankrupt; but a considerable dividend being obtained out of their effects, the principal and interest, about the year 1776, amounted to 400l. A plan of the building was made out by Mr Craig architect; and the foundation-stone was laid by Mr Stoddart, lord provost of Edinburgh, on the 25th of August 1776. About this time, however, Mr Adam architect happening to come to Edinburgh, conceived the idea of giving the whole the appearance of a fortification, for which its situation on the top of the Calton-hill was very much adapted. Accordingly a line was marked out for inclosing the limits of the observatory with a wall constructed with buttresses and embrasures, and having Gothic towers at the angles. Thus the money designed for the work was totally exhausted, and the observatory still remains unfinished; nor is there any appearance of its being soon completed, either by voluntary subscription, or any other way.

24. The College was founded in 1581; the town-council having at that time got a legacy of 8000 merks, left for this purpose by Robert Reid bishop of Orkney. James VI. endowed it with certain church-lands in the counties of Lothian and Fife; and, considering himself as its patron, ordered it to be called King James's college. From time to time it has received many donations from well disposed people.—In this university all the different branches of medicine, as well as of theology, law, &c. are taught in the most perfect manner. The first medical professors instituted at Edinburgh, were Sir Robert Sibbald and Doctor Archibald Pitcairn, in the year 1685.* These, however, were only titular professors. The college of physicians, although they possessed an exclusive right of practising, were debarred from teaching in Edinburgh; and for 30 years afterwards, a summer-lecture Edinburgh, on the officinal plants, and the dissection of a human body once in two or three years, completed the whole course of medical education at Edinburgh. In 1720, an attempt was made to teach the different branches of physic regularly; which succeeded so well, that, ever since, the reputation of the university, as a school for medicine, hath been constantly increasing, both in the island of Britain, and even among distant nations.

The medical classes are opened on the last Wednesday of November; and from that time to the beginning of May, five lectures are given weekly by each professor, Christmas week only excepted. The following is a list of the present professors in the university of Edinburgh, with the salary belonging to each.

**Theology.**

| Name | Salary | |-----------------------------|--------| | William Robertson, D.D. | | | Robert Hamilton, D.D. | | | Robert Cuming, regius | | | James Robertson, D.D. | | | James Balfour, advocate | | | Robert Dick, advocate | | | William Wallace, advocate | | | John Pringle, advocate | |

**Law.**

| Name | Salary | |-----------------------------|--------| | Alexander Monro | | | William Cullen, M.D. | | | John Hope, M.D. regius | | | Francis Home, M.D. | | | Joseph Black, M.D. | | | James Gregory, M.D. | | | Thomas Young, M.D. | |

**Medicine.**

| Name | Salary | |-----------------------------|--------| | Adam Ferguson, L.L.D. | | | Hugh Blair, D.D. regius | | | Andrew Dalziel, M.A. | | | John Hill, M.A. | | | John Robison, M.A. | | | Dugald Stewart, M.A. | |

**Arts.**

| Name | Salary | |-----------------------------|--------| | John Bruce, M.A. | | | N.B. The salary of the king's physician is divided among those gentlemen who have no salaries as professors.

The college is endowed with a very fine library. It was founded in 1580 by Mr Clement Little, advocate, who bequeathed it to the town-council. They ordered a house to be built for it in the neighbourhood of St Giles's church, where it was for some time kept under the care of the eldest minister of Edinburgh, but was afterwards removed to the college. This collection is enriched, as well as others of a similar kind, by receiving a copy of every book entered in Stationer's hall, according to the statute for the encouragement of authors. Besides this, the only fund it has is the money paid by all the students at the university, except those of divinity, upon their being matriculated; and a sum of £1. given by each professor at his admission. The amount of these sums is uncertain.

The advocates library is a better collection than the former. It was founded, in 1682, by Sir George Mackenzie, lord advocate. Besides 30,000 printed volumes in all languages, here are also a very valuable collection of manuscripts of different kinds, prints, medals, coins, &c. The faculty have also in their possession an entire mummy, preserved in its original chest. This was presented by the earl of Morton, who bought it at the price of £300.

25. **The High School.** The earliest institution of a grammar-school in Edinburgh seems to have been about the year 1519. The whole expense bestowed upon the first building of this kind amounted only to about £40 l. Sterling. Another building, which had been erected for the accommodation of the scholars in 1578, continued, notwithstanding the great increase of their number, to be used for that purpose till 1777. The foundation of the present new building was laid on the 24th of June that year by Sir William Forbes, Grand Master of the Free Masons. The total length of this building is 120 feet from south to north; the breadth in the middle 36, at each end 38 feet. The great hall where the boys meet for prayers, is 68 feet by 30. At each end of the hall is a room of 32 feet by 20, intended for libraries. The building is two stories high, the one 18, the other 17, feet in height. The expense of the whole when finished is reckoned at £3000 l.

26. **The Exchange.** The foundation of this building was laid by Provost Drummond on the 13th of September 1753. It is a large and elegant building, of a square figure, with a court in the centre. The principal part forms the north side of the square, and extends 111 feet in length, and 51 in breadth. Pillars and arches supporting a platform run along the south front which faces the square, and forms a piazza. In the centre, four Corinthian pillars, whose bases rest upon the platform, support a pediment on which the arms of the city are engraved. This building on the south side is 60 feet high; but on the north, upwards of 100; owing to the extreme inequality of the ground on which it is built. The whole expense amounted to £31,457 l.

With regard to the political constitution of Edinburgh, the town-council have the direction of all public affairs. The ordinary council consists only of 25 persons; but the council ordinary and extraordinary, of 33. The whole is composed of merchants and tradesmen, whose respective powers and interests are so interwoven, that a balance is preserved between the two bodies. The members of the town-council are partly elected by the members of the 14 incorporations, and they partly choose their own successors. The election is made in the following manner. First, a list or list of six persons is made out by each incorporation; from which number, the deacon belonging to that incorporation must be chosen. These lists are then laid before the ordinary council of 25, who "shorten the lists," by expunging one half of the names from each; and from the three remaining ones the deacon is to be chosen. When this election is over, the new deacons are presented to the ordinary council, who choose six of them to be members of their body, and the six deacons of last year then walk off. The council of 25 next proceed to the election of three merchant and two trades councillors. The members of council, who now amount to 30 in number, then make out lists, from which the lord provost, dean of guild, treasurer, and bailies, must be chosen. The candidates for each of these offices are three in number; and the election is made by the 30 members of council already mentioned, joined to the eight extraordinary council-deacons.

The lord provost of Edinburgh is high sheriff, coroner, and admiral, within the city and liberties, and the town, harbour, and road of Leith. He has also jurisdiction in matters of life and death. He is preses of the convention of royal boroughs, Colonel of the trained bands, commander of the city-guard, and of Edinburgh jail. In the city he has the precedence of all the great officers of state, and of the nobility; walking on the right hand of the king, or of his majesty's commissioner; and has the privilege of having a sword and mace carried before him. Formerly he was also an officer in the Scots parliament. The magistrates are sheriffs-depute and justices of the peace; and the town-council are patrons of all the churches in Edinburgh, patrons of the university, and electors of the city's representative in parliament; and have the right of presenting to all offices of trust, honours, or profit, belonging to the city. They have besides a very ample jurisdiction both civil and criminal. The town-council are superiors of the Canongate, Portborough, and Leith; and appoint over these certain of their own number, who are called baron bailies; but the person who presides over Leith has the title of admiral, because he hath there a jurisdiction over maritime affairs. The baron-bailies appoint one or two of the inhabitants of their respective districts to be their substitutes, and these are called resident bailies. They hold courts in absence of the baron-bailies, for petty offences, and discussing civil causes of little moment.

No city in the world affords greater security to the inhabitants in their persons and properties, than Edinburgh. Robberies are here very rare, and a street-murder is unknown in the memory of man, so that a person may walk the streets at any hour of the night in perfect security. This is in a great measure owing to the town-guard. This institution originated from the consternation into which the citizens were thrown after the battle at Flodden. At that time, the town-council commanded the inhabitants to assemble in defence of Edinburgh, the city, and every fourth man to be on duty each night. This introduced a kind of personal duty for the defence of the town, called watching and warding; by which the trading part of the inhabitants were obliged in person to watch alternately, in order to prevent or suppress occasional disturbances. This, however, becoming in time extremely inconvenient, the town-council, in 1648, appointed a body of 60 men to be raised; the captain of which was to have a monthly pay of £1 l. 2s. 3d. two lieutenants of £1 each, two sergeants of £1 5s. and the private men of 15s. each. No regular fund, however, was established for defraying this expense; the consequence of which was, that the old method of watching and warding was resumed; but the people on whom this service devolved, were now become so relaxed in their discipline, that the magistrates were threatened with having the king's troops quartered in the city if they did not appoint a sufficient guard. On this, 40 men were raised in 1679, and in 1682 the number was increased to 108. After the revolution, the town-council complained of the guard as a grievance, and requested parliament that it might be removed. Their request was immediately granted, and the old method of watching and warding was renewed. This, however, was now so intolerable, that the very next year they applied to parliament for leave to raise 126 men for the defence of the city, and to tax the citizens for their payment. This being granted, the corps was raised, which still continues under the name of the town-guard. The number of private men is about 75. They are paid chiefly by a tax on the trading people; these being the only persons formerly subject to watching and warding. This tax, however, amounts only to £250l. and as the expense of the guard amounts to £400l., the magistrates are obliged to defray the additional charge by other means.

The number of inhabitants in the city of Edinburgh is somewhat uncertain, and has been very variously calculated. By a survey made in the year 1775, it appears that the number of families in the city, Canongate and other suburbs, and the town of Leith, amounted to 13,806. The difficulty therefore is to fix the number of persons in a family. Dr Price fixes this number at 4½; Mr Maitland, at 5½; and Mr Arnot, at 6; so that, according to this last gentleman, the whole number of inhabitants is 82,836; to which he thinks 1,400 more may be added for those in the garrison, hospitals, &c. There are, in Edinburgh, 14 incorporations, capable of choosing their own deacons, viz. The royal college of surgeons; the corporations of goldsmiths, skinners, furriers, hammermen, wrights and masons, tailors, bakers, butchers, shoemakers, weavers, waukers, bonnet-makers, and merchant-company. The revenue of the city, arising partly from duties of different kinds, and partly from landed property, is estimated at about £10,000l. per annum. As Edinburgh is not properly a sea-port, it hath never been remarkable for trade. Its principal support arises from the supreme courts of justice, which are held there, and from the college. The exports and imports must all go and come by the town of Leith. See the article Leith.