Ingredients: dust 1 lb., sea-coal 2 oz., and brimstone 4 oz.; to dr. salt-petre 8 oz., glass-dust 2 oz., saw-dust 2 oz., charcoal 1 lb., and antimony 1 oz.

VI. Meal-powder 12 oz., charcoal 1 lb., saw-dust 2 oz., glass-dust 2 oz., and antimony 1 oz.

VII. Salt-petre 1 lb., 9 oz., brimstone 4 oz., charcoal 4 oz., and sea-coal 2 oz.

VIII. Meal-powder 2 lb., salt-petre 1 lb., brimstone 1 lb., meal-powder 4 oz., and glass-dust 4 oz.

IX. Meal-powder 1 lb., salt-petre 2 oz., and steel-dust 3 oz.

XI. Meal-powder 2 lb., and steel-dust 2 oz., with 2 oz. of the fine dust of beat iron.

XII. Salt-petre 2 lb., 13 oz., brimstone 8 oz., and charcoal.

Slow fire for wheels:

I. Salt-petre 4 oz., brimstone 2 oz., and meal-powder 1 oz.

II. Salt-petre 4 oz., brimstone 1 oz., and antimony 1 oz.

III. Salt-petre 4 oz., brimstone 1 oz., and camphor 2 oz.

Dead fire for wheels:

I. Salt-petre 1 lb., 6 oz., brimstone 2 oz., lapis-calaminaris 1 oz., and antimony 2 dr.

Standing or fixed cases:

I. Meal-powder 4 lb., salt-petre 2 oz., brimstone and charcoal 1 lb.

II. Meal-powder 2 lb., salt-petre 1 oz., and steel-dust 8 oz.

III. Meal-powder 1 lb., 4 oz., and charcoal 4 oz.

IV. Meal-powder 1 lb., and steel-dust 4 oz.

V. Meal-powder 2 lb., brimstone 4 oz., and sea-coal 6 oz.

VI. Meal-powder 3 lb., charcoal 5 oz., and saw-dust 1 oz.

Sun cases:

I. Meal-powder 8 lb., salt-petre 1 lb., 2 oz., steel-dust 2 lb., 10 oz., brimstone 4 oz.

II. Meal-powder 3 lb., salt-petre 6 oz., and steel-dust 7 oz.

A brilliant fire:

Meal-powder 1 lb., salt-petre 1 oz., brimstone 4 oz., steel-dust 1 oz.

Gerber:

Meal-powder 6 lb., and beat-iron 2 lb., 1 oz.

Chinese fire:

Salt-petre 12 oz., meal-powder 2 lb., brimstone 1 lb., 2 oz., and beat iron 12 oz.

Tourbillons:

Charge for four-ounce Tourbillons: Meal-powder 2 lb., 4 oz., and charcoal 4 oz.

Eight-ounce tourbillons: Meal-powder 2 lb., and charcoal 4 oz.

Large tourbillons: Meal-powder 2 lb., salt-petre 1 lb., brimstone 8 oz., and beat iron 8 oz.

N.B. Tourbillons may be made very large, and of different coloured fires; only you are to observe, that the larger they are, the weaker must be the charge; and, on the contrary, the smaller, the stronger their charge.

Water balloons:

I. Salt-petre 4 lb., brimstone 2 lb., meal-powder 2 oz., antimony 4 oz., saw-dust 4 oz., and glass-dust 1 oz.

II. Salt-petre 9 lb., brimstone 3 lb., meal-powder 6 lb., rosin 12 oz., and antimony 8 oz.

Water squibs:

I. Meal-powder 1 lb., and charcoal 1 oz.

II. Meal-powder 1 lb., and charcoal 9 oz.

Mine pots or serpents:

I. Meal-powder 1 lb., and charcoal 1 oz.

II. Meal-powder 9 oz., charcoal 1 oz.

Port-fires:

For firing rockets, &c.: I. Salt-petre 12 oz., brimstone 4 oz., and meal-powder 2 oz.

II. Salt-petre 8 oz., brimstone 4 oz., and meal-powder 2 oz.

III. Salt-petre 1 lb., 2 oz., meal-powder 1 lb., and brimstone 10 oz. This composition must be moistened with one gill of linseed oil.

IV. Meal-powder 6 oz., saltpetre 2 lb., 2 oz., and brimstone 10 oz.

V. Salt-petre 1 lb., 4 oz., meal-powder 4 oz., brimstone 5 oz., saw-dust 8 oz.

VI. Saltpetre 8 oz., brimstone 2 oz., and meal-powder 2 oz.

For illuminations:

Saltpetre 1 lb., brimstone 8 oz., and meal-powder 6 oz.

Cones or spiral wheels:

Saltpetre 1 lb., brimstone 6 oz., meal-powder 14 oz., and glass-dust 14 oz.

Crowns or globes:

Saltpetre 6 oz., brimstone 2 lb., antimony 4 oz., and camphor 2 oz.

Air balloon fuses:

I. Salt-petre 1 lb., 10 oz., brimstone 8 oz., and meal-powder 1 lb., 6 oz.

II. Salt-petre 1 lb., brimstone 8 oz., and meal-powder 1 lb., 8 oz.

Serpents for pots des brins:

Meal-powder 1 lb., 8 oz., salt-petre 12 oz., and charcoal 2 oz.

Fire puffs:

I. Salt-petre 5 lb., brimstone 1 lb., meal-powder 1 lb., and glass-dust 1 lb.

II. Salt-petre 5 lb., 8 oz., brimstone 2 lb., meal-powder 1 lb., 8 oz., and glass-dust 1 lb., 8 oz.

A slow white flame:

I. Salt-petre 2 lb., brimstone 3 lb., antimony 1 lb.

II. Salt-petre 3 lb., sulphur 2 lb., meal-powder 1 lb., antimony 1 lb., glass-dust 4 oz., brass-dust 1 oz.

N.B. These compositions, driven 1 inch in a 1 oz. case, will burn one minute, which is much longer time than an equal quantity of any composition, yet known, will last.

Amber lights:

Meal-powder 9 oz., amber 3 oz. This charge may be drove in small cases, for illuminations.

Lights of another kind:

Saltpetre 3 lb., brimstone 1 lb., meal-powder 1 lb., antimony 10 oz. All these must be mixed with the oil of spike.

A red fire:

Meal-powder 3 lb., charcoal 12 oz., and saw-dust 8 oz.

Common fire:

Salt-petre 3 lb., charcoal 10 oz., and brimstone 2 oz.

To make an artificial earthquake:

Mix the following ingredients to a paste with water, and then bury it in the ground, and in a few hours the earth will break and open in several places. The composition: sulphur 4 lb., and steel-dust 4 lb.

Compositions for flares of different colours:

I. Meal-powder 4 oz., salt-petre 2 oz., brimstone 2 oz., steel dust 1 oz., and camphor, white amber, antimony, and mercury-sublimate, of each 1/2 oz.

II. Rochepetre 10 oz., brimstone, charcoal, antimony, meal powder, and camphor, of each 1/2 oz., moistened with oil of turpentine. These compositions are made into flares, by being worked to a paste with aqua vitae, in which has been dissolved some gum tragacanth; and after you have rolled them in powder, make a hole through the middle of each, and string them on quick-match, leaving about 2 inches between each.

III. Salt-petre 8 oz., brimstone 2 oz., yellow amber 1 oz., antimony 1 oz., and powder 3 oz.

IV. Brimstone 2 oz., saltpetre 6 oz., olibanum or frankincense Ingredients in drops 4 oz.; mastic, and mercury-sublimate, of each 4 oz. meal-powder 5 oz. white amber, yellow amber, and camphor, of each 1 oz. antimony and orpiment ½ oz. each. V. Saltpetre 1 lb. brimstone ½ lb. and meal powder 8 oz. moistened with potrolio-oil.

VI. Powder ½ lb. brimstone and saltpetre, of each 4 oz. VII. Saltpetre 4 oz. brimstone 2 oz. and meal-powder 1 oz.

Stars that carry tails of sparks. I. Brimstone 6 oz. antimony crude 2 oz. saltpetre 4 oz. and rosin 4 oz. II. Saltpetre, rosin, and charcoal, of each 2 oz. brimstone 1 oz. and pitch 1 oz.

These compositions are sometimes melted in an earthen pan, and mixed with chopped cotton-match, before they are rolled into stars; but will do as well if wetted, and worked up in the usual manner.

Stars that yield some sparks. I. Camphor 2 oz. saltpetre 1 oz. meal-powder 1 oz. II. Saltpetre 1 oz. ditto melted ½ oz. and camphor 2 oz. When you would make stars of either of these compositions, you must wet them with gum-water, or spirit of wine, in which has been dissolved some gum-arabic, or gum-tragacanth, that the whole may have the consistence of a pretty thick liquid; having thus done, take 1 oz. of lint, and flit it about in the composition till it becomes dry enough to roll into stars.

Stars of a yellowish colour. Take 4 oz. of gum-tragacanth or gum-arabic, pounded and fitted through a fine sieve, camphor dissolved in brandy 2 oz. saltpetre 1 lb. sulphur ¼ lb. coarse powder of glass 4 oz. white amber 1½ oz. opiment 2 oz. Being well incorporated, make them into stars after the common method.

Stars of another kind. Take 1 lb. of camphor, and melt it in a pint of spirit of wine over a slow fire; then add to it 1 lb. of gum-arabic that has been dissolved; with this liquor mix 1 lb. of saltpetre, 6 oz. of sulphur, and 5 oz. of meal-powder; and after you have stirred them well together, roll them into stars proportionable to the rockets for which you intend them.

37. Colours produced by the different compositions.

As variety of fires adds greatly to a collection of works, it is necessary that every artist should know the different effect of each ingredient. For which reason, we shall here explain the colours they produce of themselves, and likewise how to make them retain the same when mixed with other bodies: as for example, sulphur gives a blue, camphor a white or pale colour, saltpetre a clear white-yellow, amber a colour inclining to yellow, sal-ammoniac a green, antimony a reddish, rosin a copper colour, and greek-pitch a kind of bronze or between red and yellow. All these ingredients are such as show themselves in a flame, viz.

White flame. Saltpetre, sulphur, meal-powder, and camphor; the saltpetre must be the chief part.

Blue flame. Meal-powder, saltpetre, and sulphur vivum; sulphur must be the chief: Or meal-powder, saltpetre, brimstone, spirit of wine, and oil of spike; but let the powder be the principal part.

Flame inclining to red. Saltpetre, sulphur, antimony, and greek-pitch; saltpetre the chief.

By the above method may be made various colours of fire, as the practitioner pleases; for, by making a few trials, he may cause any ingredient to be predominant in colour.

38. Ingredients that show in sparks when rammed in choked cases.

The set colours of fire produced by sparks are divided into 4 sorts, viz. the black, white, grey, and red. The black charges are composed of 2 ingredients, which are meal-powder and charcoal; the white of 3, viz. saltpetre, sulphur, and charcoal; the grey of 4, viz. meal-powder, saltpetre, brimstone, and charcoal; and the red of 3, viz. meal-powder, charcoal, and saw-dust.

There are, besides these 4 regular or set charges, 2 others, which are distinguished by the names of compound and brilliant charges; the compound being made of many ingredients, such as meal-powder, saltpetre, brimstone, charcoal, saw-dust, tea-coal, antimony, gluts dust, bras dust, steel filings, catt iron, tanner's dust, &c. or any thing that will yield sparks; all which must be managed with discretion. The brilliant fires are composed of meal-powder, saltpetre, brimstone, and steel dust; or with meal-powder and steel filings only.

39. Cotton quick-match.

It generally made of such cotton as is put in candles, of several sizes, from 1 to 6 threads thick, according to the pipes it is designed for, which pipe must be large enough for the match, when made, to be pushed in easily without breaking it. Having doubled the cotton into as many threads as you think proper, coil it very lightly into a flat-bottomed copper or earthen pan; then put in the saltpetre and the liquor, and boil them about 20 minutes; after which coil it again into another pan, as in fig. 4, and pour on what liquor remains; then put in some meal-powder, and press it down with your hands till it is quite wet; afterwards place the pan before the wooden frame, fig. 5, which must be suspended by a point in the centre of each end; and place yourself before the pan, tying the upper end of the cotton to the end of one of the sides of the frame.

When every thing is ready, you must have one to turn the frame round, while you let the cotton pass through your hands, holding it very lightly, and at the same time keeping your hands full of the wet powder; but if the powder should be too wet to stick to the cotton, put more in the pan, so as to keep a continual supply till the match is all wound up; you may wind it as close on the frame as you please, so that it do not stick together; when the frame is full, take it off the points, and sift dry meal-powder on both sides the match, till it appear quite dry; in winter the match will be a fortnight before it is fit for use; when it is thoroughly dry, cut it along the outside of one of the sides of the frame, and tie it up in frames for use.

N. B. The match must be wound tight on the frames.

The ingredients for the match, are, cotton 1 lb. 12 oz. saltpetre 1 lb. spirit of wine 2 quarts, water 3 quarts, flingflats 3 gills, and meal-powder 10 lb. To dissolve 4 oz. of flingflats, take 3 pints of water.

40. Touch-paper for capping of serpents, crackers, &c.

Dissolve, in spirits of wine or vinegar, a little saltpetre; then take some purple or blue paper, and wet it with this liquor, and when dry it will be fit for use; when... Sect. II. PYROTECHNY.

Of Moulds, when you paste this paper on any of your works, take care that the paste does not touch that part which is to burn. The method of using this paper is by cutting it into slips, long enough to go once round the mouth of a serpent, cracker, &c. When you paste on these slips, leave a little above the mouth of the case not pasted; then prime the case with meal-powder, and twist the paper to a point.

Sect. II. Of Moulds, Cases, Mixture, Instruments, &c.

40. Rocket moulds.

As the performance of rockets depends much on their moulds, it is requisite to give a definition of them and their proportions: they are made and proportioned by the diameter of their orifice, which are divided into = parts. Fig. 6. represents a mould made by its diameter AB: its height from C to D is 6 diameters and 2 thirds; from D to E is the height of the foot, which is 1 diameter and 2 thirds; F the chock, or cylinder, whose height is 1 diameter and 1-3d; it must be made out of the same piece as the foot, and fit tight in the mould; G an iron pin that goes thro' the cylinder, to keep the foot fast; H the nipple, which is ½ a diameter high and 2-3ds thick, and of the same piece of metal as the former I, whose height is 3½ diameters, and at the bottom is 1-3d of the diameter thick, and from thence tapering to 1-6th of the diameter. The best way to fix the piercer in the cylinder, is to make that part below the nipple long enough to go quite through the foot, and rivet at bottom. Fig. 7. is a former or roller for the cases, whose length from the handle, is 7½ diameters, and its diameter 2-3ds of the bore. Fig. 8. the end of the former, which is of the same thickness, and 1 diameter and 2-3ds long; the small part, which fits into the hole in the end of the roller when the case is pinching, is 1-6th and ¼ of the mould's diameter thick. Fig. 9. the first drift, which must be 6 diameters from the handle; and this, as well as all other rammers, must be a little thinner than the former, to prevent the sticking of the paper when you are driving in the charge. In the end of this rammer is a hole to fit over the piercer: the line K marked on this is 2 diameters and 1-3d from the handle; so that, when you are filling the rocket, this line appears at top of the case: you must then take the 2d rammer, fig. 10. which from the handle is 4 diameters, and the hole for the piercer is 1½ diameter long. Fig. 11. is the short and solid drift which you use when you have filled the case as high as the top of the piercer.

Ramners must have a collar of brats at the bottom, to keep the wood from spreading or splitting, and the same proportion must be given to all moulds, from 1 oz. to 6 lb. We mentioned nothing concerning the handles of the ramners; however, if their diameter be equal to the bore of the mould, and 2 diameters long, it will be a very good proportion: but the shorter you can use them the better; for the longer the drift, the less will be the pressure on the composition by the blow given with the mallet.

Dimensions for Rocket Moulds, in the Rockets are rammed solid.

| Weight of rock-moulds without cts. | Length of their feet. | Interior diameter of the moulds. | Height of the nipples. | |-----------------------------------|----------------------|---------------------------------|-----------------------| | lb. oz. | Inches | Inches | Inches | | 6 0 | 34.7 | 3.5 | 1.5 | | 4 0 | 38.6 | 2.9 | 1.4 | | 2 0 | 13.35 | 2.1 | 1.0 | | 1 0 | 12.25 | 1.7 | 0.85 | | 0 8 | 10.125 | 1.333, &c. | 0.6 | | 0 4 | 7.75 | 1.125 | 0.5 | | 0 2 | 6.2 | 0.9 | 0.45 | | 0 1 | 4.9 | 0.7 | 0.35 | | 0 1 | 3.9 | 0.55 | 0.25 | | 6 drams | 3.5 | 0.5 | 0.225 | | 4 drams | 2.2 | 0.3 | 0.2 |

The diameter of the nipple must always be equal to that of the former.

The thickness of the moulds is omitted, being very immaterial, provided they are substantial and strong.

Our author advises those who make rockets for private amusement, not to ram them solid; for it requires a very skilful hand, and an expensive apparatus for boring them, which will be shown hereafter. Driving of rockets solid is the most expeditious method, but not so certain as ramming them over a piercer.

41. Moulds for wheel-cases or serpents.

Fig. 12. represents a mould, in which the cases are drove solid; L the nipple (A), with a point (a) at top, which, when the case is filling, serves to stop the neck, and prevent the composition from falling out, which without this point it would do; and, in consequence, the air would get into the vacancy in the charge, and at the time of firing cause the case to burst. These sort of moulds are made of any length or diameter, according as the cases are required; but the diameter of the rollers must be equal to half the bore, and the rammers made quite solid.

42. To roll rocket and other cases.

Sky-rocket cases are to be made 6½ of their exterior diameter long; and all other cases that are to be filled in moulds must be as long as the moulds, within half its interior diameter.

Rocket cases, from the smallest to 4 or 6 lb. are generally made of the strongest sort of cartridge paper, and rolled dry; but the large fort are made of pasted palteboard. As it is very difficult to roll the ends of the cases quite even, the best way will be to keep a pattern of the paper for the different sorts of cases; which pattern should be somewhat longer than the case it is designed for, and on it marked the number of sheets required, which will prevent any paper being cut to waste. Having cut your papers of a proper size, and the last sheet for each case with a slope at one end, so that when the cases are rolled it may form a spiral line round the outside, and that this slope may

(a) The nipple and cylinders to bear the same proportion as those for rockets. (b) A round bit of brats, equal in length to the neck of the case, and flat at the top. Of moulds, always be the same, let the pattern be so cut for a case, &c., guide. Before you begin to roll, fold down one end of the first sheet, so far that the fold will go 2 or 3 times round the former; then, on the double edge lay the former with its handle off the table; and when you have rolled on the paper within 2 or 3 turns, lay the next sheet on that part which is loose, and roll it all on.

Having thus done, you must have a smooth board, about 20 inches long, and equal in breadth to the length of the case. In the middle of this board must be a handle placed length-wise. Under this board lay your case, and let one end of the board lie on the table; then press hard on it, and push it forwards, which will roll the paper very tight: do this 3 or 4 times before you roll on any more paper. This must be repeated every other sheet of paper, till the case is thick enough; but if the rolling board be drawn backwards, it will loosen the paper: you are to observe, when you roll on the last sheet, that the point of the slope be placed at the small end of the roller. Having rolled your case to fit the mould, push in the small end of the former F, about 1 diameter from the end of the case, and put in the end-piece within a little distance of the former; then give the pinching cord one turn round the case, between the former and the end piece; at first pull easy, and keep moving the case, which will make the neck smooth, and without large wrinkles. When the cases are hard to choak, let each sheet of paper (except the first and last, in that part where the neck is formed) be a little moistened with water; immediately after you have struck the concave stroke, bind the neck of the case round with small twine, which must not be tied in a knot, but fastened with two or three hitches.

Having thus pinched and tied the case so as not to give way, put it into the mould without its foot, and with a mallet drive the former hard on the end-piece, which will force the neck close and smooth. This done, cut the case to its proper length, allowing from the neck to the edge of the mouth half a diameter, which is equal to the height of the nipple; then take out the former, and drive the case over the piercer with the long rammer, and the vent will be of a proper size. Wheel-cases must be drove on a nipple with a point to close the neck, and make the vent of the size required; which, in most cases, is generally \(\frac{1}{4}\) of their interior diameter: as it is very often difficult, when the cases are rolled, to draw the roller out, you may make a hole through the handle, and put in it a small iron pin, by which you may easily turn the former round and pull it out. Fig. 17 shows the method of pinching cases; P a treddle, which, when pressed hard with the foot, will draw the cord tight, and force the neck as close as you please; Q a small wheel or pully, with a grove round it, for the cord to run in.

Cases are commonly rolled wet, for wheels and fixed pieces; and when they are required to contain a great length of charge, the method of making those cases is thus: Your paper must be cut as usual, only the last sheet must not be cut with a slope; having your paper ready, paste each sheet on one side; then fold down the first sheet as before directed; but be careful that the paste do not touch the upper part of the fold; for if the roller be wetted, it will tear the paper in drawing it out. In pasting the last sheet, observe not to wet the last turn or two in that part where it is to be pinched; for if that part be damp, the pinching cord will stick to it, and tear the paper; therefore, when you choak those cases, roll a bit of dry paper once round the case, before you put on the pinching cord; but this bit of paper must be taken off after the case is choaked. The rolling board, and all other methods, according to the former directions for the rolling and pinching of cases, must be used to these as well as all other cases.

43. To make tourbillon cases.

Those sort of cases are generally made about 8 diameters long; but if very large, 7 will be sufficient: tourbillons will answer very well from 4 oz. to 2 lb. but when larger there is no certainty. The cases are best rolled wet with paste, and the last sheet must have a straight edge, so that the case may be all of a thickness: when you have rolled your cases after the manner of wheel cases, pinch them at one end quite close; then with the rammer drive the ends down flat, and afterwards ram in about \(1\text{-}3\)d of a diameter of dried clay. The diameter of the former for these cases must be the same as for fly-rockets.

N.B. Tourbillons are to be rammed in moulds without a nipple, or in a mould without its foot.

44. Balloon cases, or paper shells.

First, you must have an oval former turned of smooth wood; then paste a quantity of brown or cartridge paper, and let it lie till the paste has quite soaked through; this done, rub the former with soap or grease, to prevent the paper from sticking to it; then lay the paper on in small slips, till you have made it \(1\text{-}3\)d of the thickness of the shell intended. Having thus done, set it to dry; and when dry, cut it round the middle, and the 2 halves will easily come off; but observe, when you cut, to leave about 1 inch not cut, which will make the halves join much better than if quite separated. When you have some ready to join, place the halves even together, paste a slip of paper round the opening to hold them together, and let that dry; then lay on paper all over as before, every where equal, excepting that end which goes downwards in the mortar, which may be a little thicker than the rest; for that part which receives the blow from the powder in the chamber of the mortar consequently requires the greatest strength. When the shell is thoroughly dry, burn a round vent at top, with square iron, large enough for the fuse: this method will do for balloons from 4 inches 2-5ths, to 8 inches diameter; but if they are larger, or required to be thrown a great height, let the first shell be turned of elm, instead of being made of paper.

For a balloon of 4 inches 2-5ths, let the former be 3 inches 1-8th diameter, and 5\(\frac{1}{2}\) inches long. For a balloon of 5\(\frac{1}{2}\) inches the diameter of the former must be 4 inches, and 8 inches long. For a balloon of 8 inches, let the diameter of the former be 5 inches and 15-16ths, and 11 inches 7-8ths long. For a 10-inch balloon, let the former be 7 inches 3-16ths diameter, and 14\(\frac{1}{2}\) inches long. The thickness of a shell for a balloon of 4 inches 2-5ths, must be \(\frac{1}{4}\) inch. For a balloon of 5\(\frac{1}{2}\) inches, let the thickness of the paper be 5-8ths of an inch. For an 8-inch balloon, 7-8ths of an inch. Of Moulds, inch. And for a 10-inch balloon, let the shell be 1 Case, &c., inch 1-8th thick.

Shells that are designed for stars only, may be made quite round, and the thinner they are at the opening, the better; for if they are too strong, the stars are apt to break at the bursting of the shell: when you are making the shell, make use of a pair of calibres, or a round gauge, so that you may not lay the paper thicker in one place than another; and also to know when the shell is of a proper thick- ness. Balloons must always be made to go easy into the mortars.

Cases for illumination Port-fires. These must be made very thin of paper, and rolled on formers, from 2 to 5 8ths of an inch diameter, and from 2 to 6 inches long: they are pinched close at one end, and left open at the other. When you fill them, put in but a little composition at a time, and ram it in light- ly, so as not to break the case: 3 or 4 rounds of pa- per, with the last round patted, will be strong enough for these cases.

Cases and moulds for common Port-fires. Com- mon port-fires are intended purposely to fire the works, their fire being very slow, and the heat of the flame so intense, that, if applied to rockets, lea- ders, &c., it will fire them immediately. Port-fires may be made of any length, but are seldom made more than 21 inches long: the interior diameter of port-fire moulds should be 10-16ths of an inch, and the diameter of the former ¼ an inch. The cases must be rolled wet with paste, and one end pinched, or folded down. The moulds should be made of brass, and to take in 2 pieces lengthwise; when the case is in the 2 sides, they are held together by brass rings, or hoops, which are made to fit over the out- side. The bore of the mould must not be made quite through, so that there will be no occasion for a foot. Those port-fires, when used, are held in cop- per sockets, fixed on the end of a long stick: these sockets are made like port-crayons, only with a screw instead of a ring.

45. Of mixing the compositions.

The performance of the principal part of fire-works depends much on the compositions being well mixed; therefore great care must be taken in this part of the work, particularly for the composition for sky-rockets. When you have 4 or 5 pounds of ingredients to mix, which is a sufficient quantity at a time (for a larger proportion will not do so well) first put the different ingredients together; then work them about with your hands, till you think they are pretty well incor- porated: after which put them into a lawn sieve with a receiver and top to it; and if, after it is sifted, any remains that will not pass through the sieve, grind it again till fine enough; and if it be twice sifted, it will not be amiss: but the compositions for wheels and common works are not so material, nor need be so fine. But in all fixed works, from which the fire is to play regular, the ingredients must be very fine, and great care taken in mixing them well toge- ther; and observe, that, in all compositions where- in are steel or iron filings, the hands must not touch; nor will any works, which have iron or steel in their charge, keep long in damp weather, unless pro- perly prepared, according to the following directions.

46. To preserve steel or iron filings.

It sometimes may happen, that fire-works may be required to be kept a long time, or sent abroad: nei- ther of which could be done with brilliant fires, if made with filings unprepared; for this reason, that the saltpetre being of a damp nature, it causes the iron to rust; the consequence of which is, that when the works are fired, there will appear but very few bril- liant sparks, but instead of them a number of red and droopy sparks; and besides, the charge will be so much weakened, that if this was to happen to wheels, the fire will hardly be strong enough to force them round. But to prevent such accidents, prepare your filings thus: Melt in a glazed earthen pan some brim- stone over a slow fire, and when melted throw in some filings; which keep stirring about till they are covered with brimstone: this you must do while it is on the fire; then take it off, and stir it very quick till cold, when you must roll it on a board with a wooden roller, till you have broke it as fine as corn-powder; after which fit it in as much of the brimstone as you can. There is another method of preparing fil- ings, so as to keep 2 or 3 months in winter; this may be done by rubbing them between the strongest sort of brown paper, which before has been moisten- ed with linseed oil.

N. B. If the brimstone should take fire, you may put it out, by covering the pan close at top: it is not of much signification what quantity of brimstone you use, so that there is enough to give each grain of iron a coat; but as much as will cover the bottom of a pan of about 1 foot diameter, will do for 5 or 6 pound of filings, or cast-iron for gerbes.

47. To drive or ram Sky Rockets, &c.

Rockets drove over a piercer must not have so much composition put in them at a time, as when drove solid; for the piercer, taking up great part of the bore of the case, would cause the rammer to rise too high; so that the pressure of it would not be so great on the composition, nor would it be drove every- where equal. To prevent this, observe the follow- ing rule: That for those rockets which are rammed over a piercer, let the ladle (c) hold as much composi- tion as, when drove, will raise the drift ½ the interior diameter of the case, and for those drove solid to con- tain as much as will raise it ½ the exterior diameter of the case; ladles are generally made to go easy in the case, and the length of the scoop about 1½ of its own diameter.

The charge of rockets must always be drove 1 dia- meter above the piercer, and on it must be rammed 1-3d of a diameter of clay; through the middle of which bore a small hole to the composition, that, when the charge is burnt to the top, it may commu- nicate its fire, through the hole, to the flares in the head. Great care must be taken to strike with the mallet, and with an equal force, the same number of strokes to each ladle-full of charge; otherwise the rockets will not rise with an uniform motion, nor will the composition burn equal and regular; for which reason they cannot carry a proper tail; for it will

(c) A copper scoop with a wooden handle. Instruments break before the rocket has got half way up, instead of reaching from the ground to the top, where the rocket breaks and disperses the stars, rains, or whatever is contained in the head. When you are ramming, keep the drift constantly turning or moving; and when you use the hollow rammers, knock out of them the composition now and then, or the piercer will split them. To a rocket of 4 oz., give to each ladle-full of charge 16 strokes; to a rocket of 1 lb. 28; to a 2-pounder, 36; to a 4-pounder, 42; and to a 6-pounder, 56: but rockets of a larger fort cannot be drove well by hand, but must be rammed with a machine made in the same manner as those for driving piles.

The method of ramming of wheel-cases, or any other fort, in which the charge is drove solid, is much the same as sky-rockets; for the same proportion may be observed in the ladle, and the same number of strokes given, according to their diameters, all cases being distinguished by their diameters. In this manner, a case whose bore is equal to a rocket of 4 oz. is called a 4-oz. case, and that which is equal to an 8-oz. rocket an 8-oz. case, and so on, according to the different rockets.

Having taught the method of ramming cases in moulds, we shall here say something concerning those filled without moulds; which method, for strong pasted cases, will do extremely well, and save the expense of making so many moulds. The reader must here observe, when he fills any fort of cases, to place the mould on a perpendicular block of wood, and not on any place that is hollow; for we have found by experience, that when cases were rammed on driving benches, which were formerly used, the works frequently miscarried, on account of the hollow retinence of the benches, which oft jarred and loosed the charge in the cases; but this accident never happens when the driving blocks are used (b).

When cases are to be filled without moulds, proceed thus. Have some nipples made of brass or iron, of several sorts and sizes, in proportion to the cases, and to screw or fix in the top of the driving block; when you have fixed in a nipple, make, at about 1 inch from it, a square hole in the block, 6 inches deep and 1 inch diameter; then have a piece of wood, 6 inches longer than the case intended to be filled, and 2 inches square; on one side of it cut a groove almost the length of the case, whose breadth and depth must be sufficient to cover near ½ the case; then cut the other end to fit the hole in the block, but take care to cut it so that the groove may be of a proper distance from the nipple: this half mould being made and fixed tight in the block, cut, in another piece of wood nearly of the same length as the case, a groove of the same dimensions as that in the fixed piece; then put the case on the nipple, and with a cord tie it and the 2 half-moulds together, and your case will be ready for filling.

The dimensions of the above-described half moulds, are proportionable for cases of 8 ounces; but notice must be taken, that they differ in size in proportion to the cases.

Note. The clay, mentioned in this article, must be prepared after this manner: Get some clay, in which there is no stones nor sand, and bake it in an oven till quite dry; then take it out and beat it to a powder, and afterwards sift it through a common hair-sieve, and it will be fit for use.

48. Proportion of Mallets.

The best wood for mallets is dry beech. If a person uses a mallet of moderate size, in proportion to the rocket, according to his judgment, and if the rocket succeeds, he may depend on the rest, by using the same mallet; yet it will be necessary that cases of different sorts be drove with mallets of different sizes.

The following proportion of the mallets for rockets of any size, from 1 oz. to 6 lb. may be observed; but as rockets are seldom made less than 1 oz. or larger than 6 lb. we shall leave the management of them to the curious; but all cases under 1 oz. may be rammed with an oz. rocket mallet. Your mallets will strike more solid, by having their handles turned out of the same piece as the head, and made in a cylindrical form. Let their dimensions be worked by the diameters of the rocket: for example; let the thickness of the head be 3 diameters, and its length 4, and the length of the handle 5 diameters, whose thickness must be in proportion to the hand.

49. Proportion of Sky Rockets, and manner of heading them.

Fig. 13. represents a rocket complete without its stick, whose length from the neck is 5 diameters 1-6th: the cases should always be cut to this length after they are filled. M is the head, which is 2 diameters high, and 1 diameter 1-6th ½ in breadth; N the cone or cap, whose perpendicular height must be 1 diameter 1-3d. Fig. 14. the collar to which the head is fixed; this is turned out of deal or any light wood, and its exterior diameter must be equal to the interior diameter of the head; 1-6th will be sufficient for its thickness, and round the outside edge must be a groove; the interior diameter of the collar must not be quite so wide as the exterior diameter of the rocket; when this is to be glued on the rocket, you must cut 2 or 3 rounds of paper off the case, which will make a shoulder for it to rest upon. Fig. 15. a former for the head: 2 or 3 rounds of paper well patted will be enough for the head, which, when rolled, put the collar on that part of the former marked O, which must fit the inside of it; then, with the pinching cord pinch the bottom of the head into the groove, and tie it with small twine. Fig. 16. a former for the cone. To make the caps, cut your paper in round pieces, equal in diameter to twice the length of the cone you intend to make; which pieces being cut into halves, will make 2 caps each, without wasting any paper; having formed the caps, patte over each of them a thin white paper, which must be a little longer than the cone, so as to project about ¼ an inch below the bottom: this projection of paper, being notched and patted, serves to fasten the cap to the head.

When you load the heads of your rockets with stars, rains, serpents, crackers, scrolls, or any thing else, according to your fancy, remember always to put 1 ladle-full of meal-powder into each head, which will be enough to burn the head, and disperse the stars, or

(b) A piece of hard wood in the form of an anvil block. Instruments or whatever it contains: when the heads are loaded with any sort of cases, let their mouths be placed downwards; and after the heads are filled, paste on the top of them a piece of paper, before you put on the caps. As the size of the stars oft differ, it would be needles to give an exact number for each rocket; but this rule may be observed, that the heads may be nearly filled with whatever they are loaded.

50 Decorations for Sky Rockets.

Sky-rockets bearing the pre-eminence of all fire- works, it will not be improper to treat of their various kinds of decorations, which are directed according to fancy. Some are headed with stars of different sorts, such as tailed, brilliant, white, blue and yellow stars, &c.; some with gold and silver rain; others with ser- pents, crackers, firecracks, marrows; and some with small rockets, and many other devices, as the maker pleases.

Dimensions and poise of Rocket-sticks.

| Weight | Length of Thickness at top | Breadth at top | Square at bottom | Poise from the point of the cone | |--------|---------------------------|---------------|-----------------|-------------------------------| | L. oz. | F. in. Inches. | Inches. | Inches. | F. in. |

The last column on the right, in the above table, expresses the distance from the top of the cone, where the stick, when tied on, should balance the rocket, so as to stand in an equilibrium on one's finger or the edge of a knife. The best wood for the sticks is dry deal, made thus. When you have cut and planed the sticks according to the dimensions given in the table, cut, on one of the flat sides at the top, a groove the length of the rocket, and as broad as the stick will allow; then, on the opposite flat side, cut 2 notches for the cord, which ties on the rocket, to lie in; one of these notches must be near the top of the stick, and the other facing the neck of the rockets; the distance between these notches may easily be known, for the top of the stick should always touch the head of the rocket. When your rockets and sticks are ready, lay the rockets in the grooves in the sticks, and tie them on. Those who, merely for curiosity, may choose to make rockets of different sizes, from those expressed in the table of dimensions, may find the length of their sticks, by making them for ro- ckets, from 1/2 oz. to 1 lb. 60 diameters of the rocket long; and for rockets above 1 lb. 50 or 52 diameters will be a good length; their thickness at top may be about 1/4 a diameter, and their breadth a very little more; their square at bottom is generally equal to 3 the thickness at top. But although the dimensions of the sticks be very nicely observed, you must de- pend only on their balance; for, without a proper counterpoise, your rockets, instead of mounting per- pendicularly, will take an oblique direction, and fall to the ground before they are burnt out.

51 Boring Rockets which have been drove solid.

Fig. 18. represents the plan of an apparatus, or lathe, for boring of rockets. A the large wheel, which turns the small one B, that works the rammer C: these rammers are of different sizes according to the rockets; they must be of the same diameter as the top of the bore intended, and continue that thickness a little longer than the depth of the bore required, and their points must be like that of an auger: the thick end of each rammer must be made square, and all of the same size, so as to fit into one socket, wherein they are fastened by a screw D. E the guide for the rammer, which is made to move backwards and forwards: so that, after you have marked the rammer 3 1/2 diameters of the rocket from the point, set the guide, allowing for the thickness of the fronts of the rocket boxes, and the neck and mouth of the rocket, so that when the front of the large box is close to the guide, the rammer may not go too far up the charge. F, boxes for holding the rockets, which are made so as to fit one in another; their sides must be equal in thickness to the difference of the diameters of the rockets, and their interior dia- meters equal to the exterior diameters of the rockets. To prevent the rocket's turning round while boring, a piece of wood must be placed against the end of the box in the inside, and pressed against the tail of the rocket; this will also hinder the rammer from forcing the rocket backwards. G, a rocket in the box. H, a box that slides under the rocket-boxes to receive the borings for the rockets, which fall through holes made on purpose in the boxes; these holes must be just under the mouth of the rocket, one in each box, and all to correspond with each other.

Fig. 19. is a front view of the large rocket-box. I, an iron plate, in which are holes of different sizes, through which the rammer passes: this plate is fastened with a screw in the centre, so that when you change the rammer, you turn the plate round, but always let the hole you are going to use be at the bottom: the fronts of the other boxes must have holes in them to correspond with those in the plate. K, the lower part of the large box; which is made to fit the inside of the lathe, that all the boxes may move quite steady.

Fig. 20. is a perspective view of the lathe. L, the guide for the rammer, which is set by the screw at bottom.

Fig. 21. A view of the front of the guide facing the rammer. M, an iron plate, of the same dimensions as that on the front of the box, and placed in the same direction, and also to turn on a screw in the centre. N, the rocket-box which slides backwards and for- wards: when you have fixed a rocket in the box, push it forwards against the rammer; and when you think the scoop of the rammer is full, draw the box back, and knock out the composition: this you must do till the rocket is bored, or it will be in danger of taking fire; and if you bore in a hurry, wet the end of the rammer now and then with oil to keep it cool.

Having bored a number of rockets, you must have Instrument taps of different sorts according to the rockets. These taps are a little longer than the bore; but when you use them, mark them 3½ diameters from the point, allowing for the thickness of the rocket's neck; then, holding the rocket in one hand, you tap it with the other. One of these taps is represented by fig. 22. They are made in the same proportion as the fixed piercers, and are hollowed their whole length.

52. Hand Machine used for boring of Rockets instead of a Lathe.

These sort of machines answer very well, tho' not so expedient as the lathes. But they are not so expensive to make, and they may be worked by one man; whereas the lathe will require three. Fig. 23. represents the machine. O, the rocket boxes, which are to be fixed, and not to slide as those in the lathe. P Q are guides for the rammers, that are made to slide together, as the rammer moves forward; the rammers for these machines must be made of a proper length, allowing for the thickness of the front of the boxes, and the length of the mouth and neck of the case; on the square end of these rammers, must be a round shoulder of iron, to turn against the outside of the guide Q, by which means the guides are forced forwards. R, the stock which turns the rammer, and while turning must be pressed towards the rocket by the body of the man who works it; all the rammers are to be made to fit one stock.

To make large Gerbes.

Fig. 1. represents a wooden former; fig. 2. a gerbe complete, with its foot or stand. The cases for gerbes are made very strong, on account of the strength of the composition; which, when fired, comes out with great velocity; therefore, to prevent their bursting, the paper should be pasted, and the cases made as thick at the top as at the bottom. They should also have very long necks, for this reason; first, that the particles of iron will have more time to be heated, by meeting with greater resistance in getting out, than with a short neck, which would be burnt too wide before the charge be consumed, and spoil the effect; secondly, that with long necks the flares will be thrown to a great height, and will not fall before they are spent, or spread too much; but, when made to perfection, will rise and spread in such a manner as to form exactly a wheat-sheaf.

In the ramming of gerbes, there will be no need of a mould, the cases being sufficiently strong to support themselves. But you are to be careful, before you begin to ram, to have a piece of wood made to fit in the neck; for if this be not done, the composition will fall into the neck, and leave a vacancy in the case, which will cause the case to burst too soon as the fire arrives at the vacancy. You must likewise observe, that the first ladle of charge, or second, if you think proper, be of some weak composition. When the case is filled, take out the piece of wood, and fill the neck with some slow charge. Gerbes are generally made about 6 diameters long, from the bottom to the top of the neck; their bore must be 1-5th narrower at top than at bottom. The neck S is 1-6th diameter and ½ long. T, a wooden foot or stand, on which the gerbe is fixed. This may be made with a chock or cylinder 4 or 5 inches long to fit the inside of the case, or with a hole in it to put in the gerbe; both these methods will answer the same. Gerbes produce a most brilliant fire, and are very beautiful when a number of them are fixed in the front of a building or a collection of fireworks.

N.B. Gerbes are made by their diameters, and their cases at bottom ¼ thick. The method of finding the interior diameter of a gerbe is thus: Supposing you would have the exterior diameter of the case, when made, to be 5 inches, then, by taking 2-4ths for the sides of the case, there will remain 2½ inches for the bore, which will be a very good size. These sort of gerbes should be rammed very hard.

54. Small gerbes, or white fountains.

May be made of 4 oz. 8 oz. or 1 lb. cases, pasted and made very strong, of what length you please; but, before you fill them, drive in clay one diameter of their orifice high; and when you have filled a case, bore a vent through the centre of the clay to the composition; the common proportion will do for the vent, which must be primed with a slow charge. These sort of cases, without the clay, may be filled with Chinese fire.

55. To make pasteboard and paper mortars.

Fig. 3. represents a former, and fig. 4. an elm foot, for the mortar. Fig. 5. represents a mortar complete: these mortars are best when made with pasteboard, well pasted before you begin; or, instead of paste, you may use glue. For a coehorn mortar, which is 4 inches 2-5ths diameter, roll the pasteboard on the former 1-6th of its diameter thick; and, when dry, cut one end smooth and even; then nail and glue it on the upper part of the foot; when done, cut off the pasteboard at top, allowing for the length of the mortar 2½ diameters from the mouth of the powder-chamber; then bind the mortar round with a strong cord wetted with glue. U, the bottom part of the foot is 1 diameter 2-3ds broad, and 1 diameter high; and that part which goes into the mortar is 2 3ds of its diameter high. W, is a copper chamber for powder, made in a conical form; and is 1-3d of the diameter wide, ½ of its own diameter long. In the centre of the bottom of this chamber, make a small hole a little way down the foot; this hole must be met by another of the same size, made in the side of the foot, as is shown in the figure. If these holes are made true, and a copper pipe fitted into both, the mortar when loaded will prime itself; for the powder will naturally fall to the bottom of the first hole; then by putting a bit of quick-match in the side hole, your mortar will be ready to be fired.

Mortars of 5½, 8 and 10 inches diameter, may be made of paper or pasteboard, by the above method, and in the same proportion; but if larger, it will be best to have them made of brass. N.B. The copper chamber must have a small rim round its edge with holes in it, for screws to make it fall in the foot.

Sect. III. To load Air-Balloons, with the number of Stars, Serpents, Snakes, Rain-falls, &c. in Shells of each nature.

56. Mortars to throw Aigrettes, &c.

When you fill your shells, you must first put in the ser- Air-balloon, serpents, rains, stars, &c., or whatever they are composed of; then the blowing powder; but the shells must not be quite filled. All those things must be put in at the fuze hole; but marrows being too large to go in at the fuze hole, must be put in before the inside shell be joined. When the shells are loaded, glue and drive in the fuzes very tight. For a coehorn balloon, let the diameter of the fuze hole be 7-8ths of an inch. For a royal balloon, which is near 5½ inches diameter, make the fuze hole 1 inch 1-6th diameter; for an 8-inch balloon, 1 inch 3-8ths; and for a 10-inch balloon, 1 inch 5-8ths.

Air-balloons are divided into 4 sorts, viz. first, illuminated balloons; second, balloons of serpents; third, balloons of reports, marrows, and crackers; and fourth, compound balloons. The number and quantities of each article for the different shells are as follow.

**Coehorn balloon illuminated.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 1/2 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 0 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 2 |

Length of the fuze composition, 1 inch; 1 oz. drove or rolled stars, as many as will nearly fill the shell.

**Coehorn balloon of serpents.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 1/2 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 2 1/2 |

Length of the fuze composition 13-16ths of an inch: half-oz. cafes drove 3 diameters and bounced 3 diameters, and half-oz. cafes drove 2 diameters and bounced 4, of each an equal quantity, and as many of them as will fit in easily placed head to tail.

**Coehorn balloon of crackers and reports.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 1/2 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 0 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 2 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch; reports 4, and crackers of 6 bounces as many as will fill the shell.

**Compound coehorn balloons.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 1/4 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 0 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 2 1/4 |

Length of the fuze composition 13-16ths of an inch: 1/2 oz. cafes drove 3 1/2 diameters and bounced 2, 1/2 oz. cafes drove 4 diameters and not bounced 10; blue strung stars, 10; rolled stars, as many as will complete the balloon.

**Royal balloons illuminated.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 8 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 0 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 3 0 |

Length of the fuze composition 15-16ths of an inch: 2 oz. strung stars, 34; rolled stars, as many as the shell will contain, allowing room for the fuze.

**Royal balloons of serpents.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 8 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 0 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 3 8 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch: 1 oz. cafes drove 3 1/2 and 4 diameters, and bounced 2, of each an equal quantity, sufficient to load the shell.

**Royal balloons with crackers and marrows.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 8 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 4 |

| Powder for firing the mortar | |-----------------------------| | oz. | | 3 0 |

Length of the fuze composition 14-16ths of an inch; reports 12, and completed with crackers of 8 bounces.

**Compound royal balloons.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 5 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 6 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 3 1/2 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch: 1/2 oz. cafes drove and bounced 2 diameters, 8; 2-ounce cafes filled 3-8ths of an inch with star composition, and bounced 2 diameters, 8; silver rain-falls, 10; 2 oz. tailed stars, 16; rolled brilliant stars, 30. If this should not be sufficient to load the shell, you may complete it with gold rain-falls.

**Eight-inch balloons illuminated.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 2 8 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 4 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 9 0 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch 1-8th: 2 oz. drove stars, 48; 2 oz. cafes drove with star composition 3-8ths of an inch, and bounced 3 diameters, 12; and the balloon completed with 2 oz. drove brilliant stars.

**Eight-inch balloons of serpents.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 2 0 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 2 0 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 9 8 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch 3-16ths: 2 oz. cafes drove 1 1/2 diameter and bounced 2, and 1 oz. cafes drove 2 diameters and bounced 2 1/2, of each an equal quantity sufficient for the shell.

N.B. The star-composition drove in bounced cafes must be managed thus: First, the cafes must be pinched close at one end, then the corn-powder put in for a report, and the cafe pinched again close to the powder, only leaving a small vent for the star-composition, which is drove at top, to communicate to the powder at the bounce end.

**Compound eight-inch balloons.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 2 8 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 1/2 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 9 4 |

Length of the fuze composition 1-8th: 4 oz. cafes drove with star-composition 3-8ths of an inch, and bounced 3 diameters, 16; 2 oz. tailed stars, 16; 2 oz. drove brilliant stars, 12; silver rain-falls, 20; 1 oz. drove blue stars, 20; and 1 oz. cafes drove and bounced 2 diameters, as many as will fill the shell.

**Another of eight inches.**

| Meal | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 2 8 |

| Corn | Powder | |------|--------| | oz. | 1 1/2 |

| Powder for the mortar | |-----------------------| | oz. | | 9 4 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch 1-8th: crackers of 6 reports, 10; gold rains, 14; 2 oz. cafes drove with star-composition 3-8ths of an inch, and bounced 2 diameters, 16; 2 oz. tailed stars, 16; 2 oz. drove brilliant stars, 12; silver rain, 10; 1 oz. drove blue flares, 20; and 1 oz. cafes drove with a brilliant charge 2 diameters and bounced 3, as many as the shell will hold. A compound ten-inch balloon.

| Meal | powder | |------|--------| | 3 | 4 | | Corn | | | 2 | 8 |

Powder for the mortar

Length of the fuze composition 15-16ths of an inch: 1 oz. cases drove and bounced 3 diameters, 16; crackers of 8 reports, 12; 4 oz. cases drove ½ inch with star-composition, and bounced 2 diameters, 14; 2 oz. cases drove with brilliant fire 1½ diameter, and bounced 2 diameters, 16; 2 oz. drove brilliant stars, 30; 2 oz. drove blue stars, 3; gold rains, 20; silver rains, 20. After all these are put in, fill the remainder of the case with tailed and rolled stars.

Ten-inch balloons of three charges.

| Meal | powder | |------|--------| | 3 | 0 | | Corn | | | 2 | 2 | | Powder for the mortar | 13 |

Length of the fuze composition 1 inch. The shell must be loaded with 2 oz. cases, drove with star composition ½ of an inch, and on that 1 diameter of gold fire, then bounced 3 diameters; or with 2 oz. cases first filled 1 diameter with gold fire, then ½ of an inch with star composition, and on that 1½ diameter of brilliant fire. These cases must be well secured at top of the charge, lest they should take fire at both ends; but their necks must be larger than the common proportion.

57. To make Balloon Fuze.

Fuzes for air balloons are sometimes turned out of dry-beech, with a cup at top to hold the quick-match, as you see in fig. 5, but if made with pasted paper, they will do as well: the diameter of the former for fuzes for cohorn balloons, must be ½ an inch; for a royal fuze, 5-8ths of an inch; for an 8-inch fuze, ½ of an inch; and for a 10-inch fuze, 7-8ths of an inch. Having rolled your cases, pinch and tie them almost close at one end; then drive them down, and let them dry. Before you begin to fill them, mark on the outside of the case the length of the charge required, allowing for the thickness of the bottom; and when you have rammed in the composition, take two pieces of quick-match about 6 inches long, and lay one end of each on the charge, and then a little meal-powder, which ram down hard; the loose ends of the match double up into the top of the fuze, and cover it with a paper cap to keep it dry. When you put the shells in the mortars, uncap the fuzes, and pull out the loose ends of the match, and let them hang on the sides of the balloons. The use of the match is, to receive the fire from the powder in the chamber of the mortar in order to light the fuze: the shell being put in the mortar with the fuze uppermost, and exactly in the centre, sprinkle over it a little meal-powder, and it will be ready to be fired. Fuzes made of wood must be longer than those of paper, and not bored quite through, but left solid about ½ an inch at bottom; and when you use them, saw them off to a proper length, measuring the charge from the cup at top.

58. Tourbillons.

Having filled some cases within about 1½ diameter, drive in a ladleful of clay; then pinch their ends close, and drive them down with a mallet. When done, find the centre of gravity of each case; where you nail and tie a stick, which should be ½ an inch broad at the middle, and run a little narrower to the ends; these sticks must have their ends turned upwards, so that the cases may turn horizontally on their centres: at the opposite sides of the cases, at each end, bore a hole close to the clay with a gimlet, the size of the neck of a common case of the same nature; from these holes draw a line round the case, and at the under part of the case bore a hole with the same gimlet, within ½ diameter of each line towards the centre; then from one hole to the other draw a right line. This line divide into three equal parts; and at X and Y, fig. 6, bore a hole; then from these holes to the other two, lead a quick-match, over which paste a thin paper. Fig. 7 represents a tourbillon as it should lie to be fired, with a leader from one side-hole A, to the other B. When you fire tourbillons, lay them on a smooth table, with their sticks downwards, and burn the leader through the middle with a port-fire. They should spin three or four seconds on the table before they rise, which is about the time the composition will be burning from the side-holes to those at bottom.

To tourbillons may be fixed reports in this manner: In the centre of the case at top make a small hole, and in the middle of the report make another; then place them together, and tie on the report, and with a flint paper secure it from fire: this done, your tourbillon is completed. By this method you may fix on tourbillons small cones of stars, rains, &c., but be careful not to load them too much. One-eighth of an inch will be enough for the thickness of the sticks, and their length equal to that of the cases.

59. To make Mortars to throw Aigrettes, and to load and fire them.

Mortars to throw aigrettes are generally made of pasteboard, of the same thickness as balloon mortars, and 2½ diameters long in the inside from the top of the foot; the foot must be made of elm without a chamber, but flat at top, and in the same proportion as those for balloon mortars; these mortars must also be bound round with a cord as before-mentioned; sometimes 8 or 9 of these mortars, of about three or four inches diameter, are bound all together so as to appear but one: but when they are made for this purpose, the bottom of the foot must be of the same diameter as the mortars, and only ½ diameter high. Your mortars being bound well together, fix them on a heavy solid block of wood. To load these mortars, first put on the inside bottom of each a piece of paper, and on it spread 1½ oz. of meal and corn powder mixed; then tie your serpents up in parcels with quick-match, and put them in the mortar with their mouths downwards; but take care the parcels do not fit too tight in the mortars, and that all the serpents have been well primed with powder wetted with spirit of wine. On the top of the serpents in each mortar lay some paper or tow; then carry a leader from one mortar to the other all round, and then from all the outside mortars into that in the middle: these leaders must be put between the cases and the sides of the mortar, down to the powder at bottom: in the centre of the middle mortar fix a fire-pump, or brilliant fountain, which must be open at bottom, and long enough to project out of the mouth of the mortar; then paste paper on the tops of all the mortars.

Mortars thus prepared are called a nest of serpents, as represented by fig. 8. When you would fire these... mortars, light the fire-pump C, which when consumed will communicate to all the mortars at once by means of the leaders. For mortars of 6, 8, or 10 inches diameter, the serpents should be made in 1 and 2 oz. cases 6 or 7 inches long, and fired by a leader brought out of the mouth of the mortar, and turned down the outside, and the end of it covered with paper, to prevent the sparks of the other works from setting it on fire.

For a six-inch mortar, let the quantity of powder for firing be 2 oz.; for an 8-inch, 3½ oz.; and for a 10-inch, 3½ oz. Care must be taken in these, as well as small mortars, not to put the serpents too tight, for fear of bursting the mortars. These mortars may be loaded with stars, crackers, &c.

If the mortars, when loaded, are sent to any distance, or liable to be much moved, the firing powder should be secured from getting amongst the serpents, which would endanger the mortars, as well as hurt their performance. To prevent which, load your mortars thus:

First put in the firing powder, and spread it equally about; then cut a round piece of blue touch-paper, equal to the exterior diameter of the mortar, and draw on it a circle equal to the interior diameter of the mortar, and notch it all round as far as that circle; then paste that part which is notched, and put it down the mortar close to the powder, and stick the pasted edge to the mortar: this will keep the powder always smooth at bottom, so that it may be moved or carried anywhere, without receiving damage. The large single mortars are called pots des aligrettes.

60. Making, loading, and firing of Pots des Brins.

These are formed of pasteboard, and must be rolled pretty thick. They are usually made 3 or 4 inches diameter, and 4 diameters long; and pinched with a neck at one end, like common cases. A number of these are placed on a plank thus: Having fixed on a plank two rows of wooden pegs, cut in the bottom of the plank a groove the whole length under each row of pegs; then, through the centre of each peg, bore a hole down to the groove at bottom, and on every peg fix and glue a pot, whose mouth must fit tight on the peg; through all the holes run a quick-match, one end of which must go into the pot, and the other into the groove, which must have a match laid in it from end to end, and covered with paper, so that when lighted at one end it may discharge the whole almost instantaneously: in all the pots put about 1 oz. of meal and corn powder; then in some put stars, and others rains, snakes, serpents, crackers, &c. when they are all loaded, paste paper over their mouths. Two or three hundred of these pots being fired together make a very pretty show, by affording so great a variety of fires. Fig. 9, is a range of pots des brins, with a leader A, by which they are fired.

61. Pots des Saucifions

Are generally fired out of large mortars without chambers, the same as those for aligrettes, only somewhat stronger. Saucifions are made of 1 and 2 oz. cases, 5 or 6 inches long, and choaked in the same manner as serpents. Half the number which the mortar contains must be drove 1½ diameter with composition, and the other half two diameters, so that when fired they may give two volleys of reports. But if the mortars are very strong, and will bear a sufficient charge to throw the saucifions very high, you may make three volleys of reports, by dividing the number of cases into three parts, and making a difference in the height of the charge. After they are filled, pinch and tie them at top of the charge almost close; only leaving a small vent to communicate the fire to the upper part of the case, which must be filled with corn-powder very near the top; then pinch the end quite close, and tie it; after this is done, bind the case very tight with waxed pack-threads; from the choak at top of the composition to the end of the case; this will make the case very strong in that part, and cause the report to be very loud. Saucifions should be rolled a little thicker of paper than the common proportion. When they are to be put in the mortar, they must be primed in their mouths, and fired by a case of brilliant fire fixed in their centre.

The charge for these mortars should be 1/6th or 1/8th more than for pots des aligrettes of the same diameter.

Sect. IV. Different kinds of Rockets, with their Appendages and Combinations.

62. To fix one Rocket on the top of another.

When sky-rockets are thus managed, they are called towering rockets, on account of their mounting to very high. Towering rockets are made after this manner: Fix on a pound-rocket a head without a collar; then take a 4 oz. rocket, which may be headed or bounced, and rub the mouth of it with meal-powder wetted with spirit of wine: when done, put it in the head of the large rocket with its mouth downwards; but before you put it in, stick a bit of quick-match in the hole of the clay of the pound-rocker, which match should be long enough to go a little way up the bore of the small rocket, to fire it when the large is burnt out: the 4 oz. rocket being too small to fill the head of the other, roll round it as much tow as will make it stand upright in the centre of the head: the rocket being thus fixed, paste a single paper round the opening of the top of the head of the large rocket. The large rocket must have only half a diameter of charge rammed above the piercer; for, if filled to the usual height, it would turn before the small one takes fire, and entirely destroy the intended effect: when one rocket is headed with another there will be no occasion for any blowing powder; for the force with which it sets off will be sufficient to disengage it from the head of the first fired rocket. The sticks for these rockets must be a little longer than for those headed with stars, rains, &c.

63. Caduceus Rockets.

In rising, form two spiral lines, or double worm, by reason of their being placed obliquely, one opposite the other; and their counterpoise in their centre, which causes them to rise in a vertical direction. Rockets for this purpose must have their ends choaked close, without either head or bounce, for a weight at top would be a great obstruction to their mounting; though I have known them sometimes to be bounced, but then they did not rise so high as those that were not; nor do any caduceus rockets ascend so high as single, because of their serpentine motion, and likewise the resistance of air, which is much greater than two rockets of the same size would meet with if fired singly.

By fig. 9, you see the method of fixing these rock- etc.: the sticks for this purpose must have all their sides alike, which sides should be equal to the breadth of a stick proper for a sky-rocket of the same weight as those you intend to use, and to taper downwards as usual, long enough to balance them; one length of a rocket from the cross stick; which must be placed from the large stick 6 diameters of one of the rockets, and its length 7 diameters; so that each rocket, when tied on, may form with the large stick an angle of 60 degrees.

In tying on the rockets, place their heads on the opposite sides of the cross stick, and their ends on the opposite sides of the long stick; then carry a leader from the mouth of one into that of the other. When these rockets are to be fired, suspend them between two hooks or nails, then burn the leader through the middle, and both will take fire at the same time. Rockets of 1 lb. are a good size for this use.

64. Honorary Rockets.

Are the same as sky-rockets, except that they carry no head nor report, but are closed at top, on which is fixed a cone; then on the case, close to the top of the stick, you tie on a 2 oz. case, about 5 or 6 inches long, filled with a strong charge, and pinched close at both ends; then in the reverse sides, at each end, bore a hole in the same manner as in tourbillion; from each hole carry a leader into the top of the rocket. When the rocket is fired, and arrives to its proper height, it will give fire to the case at top; which will cause both rocket and stick to spin very fast in their return, and represent a worm of fire descending to the ground.

There is another method of placing the small case, which is by letting the stick rise a little above the top of the rocket, and tying the case to it, so as to rest on the rocket; these rockets have no cones.

There is also a third method by which they are managed, which is thus: In the top of a rocket fix a piece of wood, in which drive a small iron spindle; then make a hole in the middle of the small case, through which put the spindle; then fix on the top of it a nut, to keep the case from falling off; when this is done, the case will turn very fast, without the rocket; but this method does not answer so well as either of the former.

Fig. 10. is the honorary rocket complete. The best sized rockets for this purpose are those of 1 lb.

65. To divide the Tail of a Sky Rocket so as to form an Arch when ascending.

Having some rockets made, and headed according to fancy, and tied on their sticks; get some sheet tin, and cut it into round pieces about 3 or 4 inches diameter; then on the stick of each rocket, under the mouth of the case, fix one of these pieces of tin 16 inches from the rocket's neck, and support it by a wooden bracket, as strong as possible; the use of this is, that when the rocket is ascending the fire will play with great force on the tin, which will divide the tail in such a manner that it will form an arch as it mounts, and will have a very good effect when well managed; if there is a short piece of port-fire, of a strong charge, tied to the end of the stick, it will make a great addition; but this must be lighted before you fire the rocket.

66. To make several Sky Rockets rise in the same direction, and equally distant from each other.

Take six, or any number of sky rockets, of what size you please, then cut some strong pack-thread into pieces of 3 or 4 yards long, and tie each end of these pieces to a rocket in this manner: Having tied one end of your pack-thread round the body of one rocket, and the other end to another, take a second piece of pack-thread and make one end of it fast to one of the rockets already tied, and the other end to a third rocket, so that all the rockets, except the two outside, will be fastened to two pieces of pack-thread: the length of thread from one rocket to the other may be what the maker pleases; but the rockets must be all of a size, and their heads filled with the same weight of flares, rains, &c.

Having thus done, fix in the mouth of each rocket a leader of the same length; and when you are going to fire them, hang them almost close; then tie the ends of the leaders together, and prime them: this prime being fired, all the rockets will mount at the same time, and divide as far as the strings will allow; which division they will keep, provided they are all rammed alike, and well made. They are called by some chained rockets.

67. Signal Sky-Rockets.

Are made of several kinds, according to the different signals intended to be given: but in artificial fireworks, two sorts are only used, which are one with reports and the other without; but those for the use of the navy and army are headed with flares, serpents, &c.—Rockets which are to be bounced must have their cases made 1½ or 2 diameters longer than the common proportion; and after they are filled, drive in a double quantity of clay, then bounce and pinch them after the usual manner, and fix on each a cap.

Signal sky-rockets without bounces, are only sky-rockets cloed and capped: these are very light, therefore do not require such heavy sticks as those with loaded heads; for which reason you may cut one length of the rocket off the stick, or else make them thinner.

Signal rockets with reports, are fired in small flights; and often both these, and those without reports, are used for a signal to begin firing a collection of works.

68. To fix a Sky Rocket with its stick on the top of another.

Rockets thus managed make a pretty appearance, by reason of a fresh tail being seen when the second rocket takes fire, which will mount to a great height. The method of preparing these rockets is thus: Having filled a two-pounder, which must be filled only half a diameter above the piercer, and its head not more than 10 or 12 flares; the stick of this rocket must be made a little thicker than common; and when made, cut it in half the flat way, and in each half make a groove, so that, when the 2 halves are joined, the hollow made by the grooves may be large enough to hold the stick of a half-pound rocket; which rocket make and head as usual: put the stick of this rocket into the hollow of the large one, so far that the mouth of the rocket may rest on the head of the two-pounder; from whose head carry a leader into the mouth of the small rocket; which being done, your rockets will be ready for firing.

ad 68. To fix two or more Sky Rockets on one stick.

Two, three, or fix sky-rockets, fixed on one stick, and fired together, make a grand and beautiful appearance; for the tails of all will seem but as one of an immense size, and the breaking of so many heads at once Rockets, &c. once will resemble the bursting of an air balloon. The management of this device requires a skilful hand; but if the following instructions be well observed, even by those who have not made a great progress in this art, there will be no doubt of the rockets having the desired effect.

Rockets for this purpose must be made with the greatest exactness, all rammed by the same hand, in the same mould, and out of the one proportion of composition; and after they are filled and headed, must all be of the same weight. The stick must also be well made (and proportioned) to the following directions: first, supposing your rockets to be ½ pounders, whose sticks are 6 feet 6 inches long, then if 2, 3, or 6 of these are to be fixed on a stick, let the length of it be 9 feet 9 inches; then cut the top of it into as many sides as there are rockets, and let the length of each side be equal to the length of 1 of the rockets without its head; and in each side cut a groove (as usual); then from the grooves plane it round, down to the bottom, where its thickness must be equal to half the top of the round part. As their thickness cannot be exactly ascertained, we shall give a rule which generally answers for any number of rockets above two: the rule is this; that the stick at top must be thick enough, when the grooves are cut, for all the rockets to lie, without pressing each other, though as near as possible.

When only 2 rockets are to be fixed on a stick, let the length of the stick be the last given proportion, but shaped after the common method, and the breadth and thickness double the usual dimensions. The point of polish must be in the usual place; (let the number of rockets be what they will;) if sticks made by the above directions should be too heavy, plane them thinner; and if too light, make them thicker; but always make them of the same length.

When more than two rockets are tied on one stick, there will be some danger of their flying up without the stick, unless the following precaution is taken: For cases being placed on all sides, there can be no notches for the cord which ties on the rockets to lie in; therefore, instead of notches, drive a small nail in each side of the stick, between the necks of the cases; and let the cord, which goes round their necks, be brought close under the nails; by this means the rockets will be as secure as when tied on singly. Your rockets being thus fixed, carry a quick-match, without a pipe, from the mouth of one rocket to the other; this match being lighted will give fire to all at once.

Though the directions already given may be sufficient for these rockets, we shall here add an improvement on a very essential part of this device, which is, that of hanging the rockets to be fired; for before the following method was hit upon, many essays proved unsuccessful. Instead, therefore, of the old and common manner of hanging them on nails or hooks, make use of this contrivance: Have a ring made of strong iron wire, large enough for the stick to go in as far as the mouths of the rockets; then let this ring be supported by a small iron, at some distance from the post or stand to which it is fixed; then have another ring, fit to receive and guide the small end of the stick. Rockets thus suspended will have nothing to obstruct their fire; but when they are hung on nails or hooks, in such a manner that some of their mouths are against or upon a rail, there can be no certainty of their rising in a vertical direction.

69. To fire Sky-rockets without Stick.

You must have a stand, of a block of wood, a foot diameter, and make the bottom flat, so that it may stand steady; in the centre of the top of this block draw a circle 2½ inches diameter, and divide the circumference of it into three equal parts; then take 3 pieces of thick iron wire, each about 3 feet long, and drive them into the block, 1 at each point made on the circle; when these wires are drove in deep enough to hold them fast and upright, so that the distance from one to the other is the same at top as at bottom, the stand is complete.

The stand being thus made, prepare your rockets thus: Take some common sky-rockets, of any size, and head them as you please; then get some balls of lead, and tie to each a small wire 2 or 2½ feet long; and the other end of each wire tie to the neck of a rocket. These balls answer the purpose of sticks when made of a proper weight, which is about 2-3ds the weight of the rocket; but when they are of a proper size, they will balance the rocket in the same manner as a stick, at the usual point of poise. To fire these, hang them, one at a time, between the tops of the wires, letting their heads rest on the point of the wires, and the balls hang down between them: if the wires should be too wide for the rockets, press them together till they hit; and if too close, force them open: the wires for this purpose must be softened, so as not to have any spring, or they will not keep their position when pressed close or opened.

70. Rain-falls and Stars for Sky-rockets, Double and Single.

Gold and silver rain compositions are drove in cases that are pinched quite close at one end: if you roll them dry, 4 or 5 rounds of paper will be strong enough; but if they are pasted, 3 rounds will do; and the thin sort of cartridge-paper is best for those small cases, which in rolling you must not turn down the inside edge as in other cases, for a double edge would be too thick for so small a bore. The moulds for rain-falls should be made of brass, and turned very smooth in the inside; or the cases, which are so very thin, would tear in coming out; for the charge must be drove in tightly; and the better the case fits the mould, the more driving it will bear. These moulds have no nipple, but instead thereof they are made flat. As it would be very tedious and troublesome to shake the composition out of such small ladles as are used for these cases, it will be necessary to have a funnel made of thin tin, to fit on the top of the case, by the help of which you may fill them very fast. For single rain-falls for 4 oz. rockets, let the diameter of the former be 2-16ths of an inch, and the length of the case 2 inches; for 8 oz. rockets, 4-16ths and 2 diameters of the rocket long; for 1 lb. rockets, 5-16ths, and 2 diameters of the rocket long; for 2 lb. rockets, 5-16ths, and 3½ inches long; for 4 lb. rockets, 6-16ths, and 4½ inches long; and for 6-pounders, 7-16ths diameter, and 5 inches long.

Of double rain-falls there are 2 sorts. For example, ample, some appear first like a star, and then as rain; and some appear first as rain, and then like a star.

When you would have stars first, you must fill the cases, within half an inch of the top, with rain-composition, and the remainder with star-composition; but when you intend the rain should be first, drive the case in an inch with star-composition, and the rest with rain. By this method may be made many changes of fire; for in large rockets you may make them first burn as stars, then rain, and again as stars; or they may first throw rain, then stars, and finish with a report; but when they are thus managed, cut open the first rammed end, after they are filled and bounced, at which place prime them. The star-composition for this purpose must be a little stronger than for rolled stars.

Strong stars. First take some thin paper, and cut it into pieces of half an inch square, or thereabouts; then on each piece lay as much dry star-composition as you think the paper will easily contain; then twist up the paper as tight as you can; when done, rub some paste on your hands, and roll the stars between them; then set them to dry; your stars being thus made, get some flax or fine tow, and roll a little of it over each star; then paste your hands and roll the stars as before, and let them again to dry; when they are quite dry, with a piercer make a hole through the middle of each, into which run a cotton quick-match, long enough to hold 10 or 12 stars at 3 or 4 inches distance: but any number of stars may be strung together by joining the matches.

Tailed stars. These are called tailed stars, because there are a great number of sparks issue from them, which represent a tail like that of a comet. Of these there are two sorts, which are rolled and drove: when rolled, they must be moistened with a liquor made of half a pint of spirit of wine, and half a gill of thin size, of this as much as will wet the composition enough to make it roll easy; when they are rolled, sift meal-powder over them, and set them to dry.

When tailed stars are drove, the composition must be moistened with spirit of wine only, and not made so wet as for rolling: 1 and 2 oz. cases, rolled dry, are best for this purpose; and when they are filled, unroll the case within 3 or 4 rounds of the charge, and all that you unroll cut off; then paste down the loose edge: 2 or 3 days after the cases are filled, cut them in pieces 5 or 6-8ths of an inch in length; then melt some wax, and dip one end of each piece into it, so as to cover the composition: the other end must be rubbed with meal-powder wetted with spirit of wine.

Drove stars. Cases for drove stars are rolled with paste, but are made very thin of paper. Before you begin to fill them, damp the composition with spirit of wine that has had some camphor dissolved in it: you may ram them indifferently hard, so that you do not break or crack the case; to prevent which, they should fit tight in the mould. They are drove in cases of several sizes, from 8 drams to 4 oz. When they are filled in ½ oz. cases, cut them in pieces of ½ of an inch long; if 1 oz. cases, cut them in pieces of 1 inch; if 2 oz. cases, cut them in pieces of 1½ inch long; and if 4 oz. cases, cut them in pieces of 1½ inch long: having cut your stars of a proper size, prime both ends with wet meal-powder. These stars are seldom put in rockets, they being chiefly intended for air balloons, and drove in cases, to prevent the composition from being broke by the force of the blowing powder in the shell.

Rolling stars are commonly made about the size of a musket-ball; though they are rolled of several sizes, from the bigness of a pistol-ball to 1 inch diameter; and sometimes very small, but are then called sparkers. Great care must be taken in making stars, first, that the several ingredients are reduced to a fine powder; secondly, that the composition is well worked and mixed. Before you begin to roll, take about a pound of composition, and wet it with the following liquid, enough to make it stick together and roll easy: Spirit of wine 1 quart, in which dissolve ¼ of an ounce of saltpetre. If a great quantity of composition be wetted at once, the spirit will evaporate, and leave it dry, before you can roll it into stars: having rolled up one proportion, shake the stars in meal-powder, and set them to dry, which they will do in 3 or 4 days; but if you should want them for immediate use, dry them in an earthen pan over a slow heat, or in an oven. It is very difficult to make the stars all of an equal size, when the composition is taken up promiscuously with the fingers; but by the following method they may be made them very exact: When the mixture is moistened properly, roll it on a flat smooth stone, and cut it into square pieces, making each square large enough for the stars you intend. There is another method used by some to make stars, which is by rolling the composition in long pieces, and then cutting off the star, so that each star will be of a cylindrical form: but this method is not so good as the former; for, to make the composition roll this way, it must be made very wet, which makes the stars heavy, as well as weakens them. All stars must be kept as much from air as possible, otherwise they will grow weak and bad.

71. Scrolls for Sky Rockets.

Cases for scrolls should be made 4 or 5 inches in length, and their interior diameter 3-8ths of an inch: one end of these cases must be pinched quite close, before you begin to fill; and when filled, close the other end: then in the opposite sides make a small hole at each end, to the composition, in the same manner as in tourbillons; and prime them with wet meal-powder. You may put in the head of a rocket as many of these cases as it will contain: being fired, they turn very quick in the air, and form a scroll or spiral line. They are generally filled with a strong charge, as that of serpents, or brilliant fire.

72. Swarmers, or Small Rockets.

Rockets that go under the denomination of swarmers, are those from 2 oz. downwards. These rockets are fired sometimes in flights, and in large waterworks, &c. Swarmers of 1 and 2 oz. are bored, and made in the same manner as large rockets, except that, when headed, their heads must be put on without a collar: the number of strokes for driving 1 oz. must be 8, and for 2 oz. 12.

All rockets under 1 oz. are not bored, but must be filled to the usual height with composition, which generally consists of fine meal-powder 4 oz. and charcoal or steel-dust 2 drams: the number of strokes for ramming these small swarmers is not material, provided they... Sect. IV.

Rockets, they are rammed true, and moderately hard. The necks of unbordered rockets must be in the same proportion as in common cases.

73. Stands for Sky-Rockets.

Care must be taken, in placing the rockets when they are to be fired, to give them a vertical direction at their first setting out; which may be managed thus. Have two rails of wood, of any length, supported at each end by a perpendicular leg, so that the rails be horizontal, and let the distance from one to the other be almost equal to the length of the sticks of the rockets intended to be fired; then in the front of the top rail drive square hooks at 8 inches distance, with their points turning sideways, so that when the rockets are hung on them, the points will be before the sticks and keep them from falling or being blown off by the wind; in the front of the rail at bottom must be staples, drove perpendicular under the hooks at top; through these staples put the small ends of the rocket-sticks. Rockets are fired by applying a lighted port-fire to their mouths.

N.B. When sky-rockets are made to perfection, and fired, they will stand 2 or 3 seconds on the hook before they rise, and then mount up briskly, with a steady motion, carrying a large tail from the ground all the way up, and just as they turn break and disperse the stars.

74. Girandole Chests, for Flights of Rockets.

There are generally composed of four sides, of equal dimensions; but may be made of any diameter, according to the number of rockets designed to be fired; its height must be in proportion to the rockets, but must always be a little higher than the rockets with their sticks. When the sides are joined, fix in the top, as far down the chest as the length of one of the rockets with its cap on. In this top, make as many square or round holes to receive the rocket-sticks, as you intend to have rockets; but let the distance between them be sufficient for the rockets to stand without touching one another; then from one hole to another cut a groove large enough for a quick-match to lie in; the top being thus fixed, put in the bottom, at about 1½ foot distance from the bottom of the chest; in this bottom must be as many holes as in the top, and all to correspond; but these holes need not be so large as those in the top.

To prepare your chest, you must lay a quick-match, in all the grooves, from hole to hole; than take some sky-rockets, and rub them in the mouth with wet meal-powder, and put a bit of match up the cavity of each, which match must be long enough to hang a little below the mouth of the rocket. Your rockets and chest being prepared according to the above directions, put the sticks of the rockets through the holes in the top and bottom of the chest, so that their mouths may rest on the quick-match in the grooves; by which all the rockets will be fired at once; for by giving fire to any part of the match, it will communicate to all the rockets in an instant. As it would be rather troublesome to direct the sticks from the top to the proper holes in the bottom, it will be necessary to have a small door in one of the sides, which when opened, you may see how to place the sticks. Flights of rockets being seldom set off at the beginning of any fireworks, they are in danger of being fired by the sparks from wheels, &c. therefore, to preserve them, a cover should be made to fit on the chest, and the door in the side kept shut.

75. Serpents or Snakes for Pots of Aigretter, Small Mortars, Sky-Rockets, &c.

Serpents for this use are made from 2½ inches to 7 inches long, and their formers from 3-16ths to 5-8ths of an inch diameter; but the diameter of the cases must always be equal to 2 diameters of the former. They are rolled and choaked like other cases, and filled with composition from 5-8ths of an inch to 1¾ inch high, according to the size of the mortars or rockets they are designed for; and the remainder of the cases bounced with corn-powder, and afterwards their ends pinched and tied close; before they are used, their mouths must be primed with wet meal-powder.

76. Leaders, or Pipes of Communication.

The best paper for leaders is elephant; which you cut into long slips 2 or 3 inches broad, so that they may go 3 or 4 times round the former, but not more; when they are very thick, they are too strong for the paper which fastens them to the works, and will sometimes fly off without leading the fire. The formers for these leaders are made from 2 to 6 16ths of an inch diameter; but 4-16ths is the size generally made use of. The formers are made of smooth brass wire; when you use them, rub them over with grease, or keep them wet with paste, to prevent their sticking to the paper, which must be palied all over. In rolling of pipes, make use of a rolling-board, but use it lightly; having rolled a pipe, draw out the former with one hand, holding the pipe as tight as possible with the other; for if it presses against the former, it will stick and tear the paper.

N.B. Make your leaders of different lengths, or in clothing of works you will cut a great many to waste. Leaders for marron batteries must be made of strong cartridge paper.

77. Crackers.

Cut some cartridge paper into pieces 3½ inches broad, and 1 foot long; one edge of each fold down lengthwise about ¼ of an inch broad; then fold the double edge down ½ of an inch, and turn the single edge back half over the double fold; then open it, and lay all along the channel, which is formed by the folding of the paper, some meal-powder; then fold it over and over till all the paper is doubled up, rubbing it down every turn; this done, bend it backwards and forwards, 2½ inches, or thereabouts, at a time, as oft as the paper will allow; then hold all these folds flat and close, and with a small pinching cord give one turn round the middle of the cracker, and pinch it close; then bind it with a pack-thread as tight as you can; then, in the place where it was pinched, prime one end of it, and cap it with touch-paper. When these crackers are fired, they will give a report at every turn of the paper; if you would have a great number of bounces, you must cut the paper longer, or join them after they are made; but if they are made very long before they are pinched, you must have a piece of wood with a groove in it, deep enough to let in half the cracker; this will hold it straight while it is pinching. Plate Fig. 12, represents a cracker complete.

83. Chinese 78. Single Reports.

Cases for reports are generally rolled on 1 and 2 oz. formers, and seldom made larger but on particular occasions; they are made from 2 to 4 inches long, and very thick of paper. Having rolled a case, pinch one end quite close, and drive it down; then fill the case with corn-powder, only leaving room to pinch it at top; but before you pinch it, put in a piece of paper at top of the powder. Reports are fired by a vent, bored in the middle, or at one end, just as required.

79. Marrons.

Formers for marrons are from ½ of an inch to 1½ diameter. Cut the paper for the cases twice the diameter of the former broad, and long enough to go three times round; when you have rolled a case, patte down the edge, and tie one end close; then with the former drive it down to take away the wrinkles, and make it flat at bottom; then fill the case with corn-powder 1 diameter and ½ high, and fold down the rest of the case tight on the powder. The marron being thus made, wax some strong pack-thread with shoemakers wax; this thread wind up in a ball, then unwind two or three yards of it, and that part which is near the ball make fast to a hook; then take a marron, and stand so far from the hook as the pack-thread will reach, and wind it lengthwise round the marron as close as you can, till it will hold no more that way; then turn it, and wind the pack-thread on the short way, then lengthwise again, and so on till the paper is all covered; then make fast the end of the pack-thread, and beat down both ends of the marron to bring it in shape. The method of firing marrons is by making a hole at one end with an awl, and putting in a piece of quick-match; then take a piece of strong paper, in which wrap up the marron with two leaders, which must be put down to the vent, and the paper tied tight round them with small twine; these leaders are bent on each side, and their loose ends tied to other marrons, and are nailed in the middle to the rail of the stand, as in fig. 13. The use of winding the pack-thread in a ball is, that you may let it out as you want it, according to the quantity the marron may require; and that it may not be tied in knots, which would spoil the marron.

80. Marron Batteries.

If well managed, will keep time to a march, or a slow piece of music. Marron batteries are made of several stands, with a number of cross rails for the marrons; which are regulated by leaders, by cutting them of different lengths, and nailing them tight or loose according to the time of the music. In marron batteries you must use the large and small marrons, and the nails for the pipes must have flat heads.

81. Lime Rockets.

Are made and drove as the sky-rockets, but have no heads, and the cases must be cut close to the clay; they are sometimes made with 6 or 7 changes, but in general not more than 4 or 5. The method of managing those rockets is thus: First, have a piece of light wood, the length of one of the rockets, turned round about 2½ inches diameter, with a hole through the middle lengthwise, large enough for the line to go easily through; if you design four changes, have four grooves cut in the swivel, one opposite the other, to lay the rockets in.

The mouths of the rockets being rubbed with wet meal-powder, lay them in the grooves head to tail, and tie them fast; from the tail of the first rocket carry a leader to the mouth of the second, and from the second to the third, and so on to as many as there are on the swivel, making every leader very secure; but in fixing these pipes, take care that the quick-match does not enter the bores of the rockets; the rockets being fixed on the swivel and ready to be fired, have a line 100 yards long, stretched and fixed up tight, at any height from the ground; but be sure to place it horizontal; this length of line will do for ¼ lb. rockets; but if larger, the line must be longer. Before you put up the line, put one end of it through the swivel; and when you fire the line rocket, let the mouth of that rocket which you fire first face that end of the line where you stand; then the first rocket will carry the rest to the other end of the line, and the second will bring them back; and so they will run out and in according to the number of rockets; at each end of the line there must be a piece of flat wood for the rocket to strike against, or its force will cut the line. Let the line be well soaked, and the hole in the swivel very smooth.

82. Different Decorations for Lime Rockets.

To line rockets may be fixed great variety of figures, such as flying dragons, Mercuries, ships, &c. Or they may be made to run on the line like a wheel; which is done in this manner. Have a flat swivel made very exact, and on it tie two rockets obliquely, one on each side, which will make it turn round all the way it goes, and form a circle of fire; the charge for these rockets should be a little weaker than common. If you would show two dragons fighting, get two swivels made square, and on each tie three rockets together on the under side; then have two flying dragons made of tin, and fix one of them on the top of each swivel, so as to stand upright; in the mouth of each dragon put a small case of common fire, and another at the end of the tail; you may put two or three port-fires, of a strong charge, on one side of their bodies, to show them. This done, put them on the line, one at each end; but let there be a swivel in the middle of the line to keep the dragons from striking together; before you fire the rockets, light the cases on the dragons; and if care be taken in firing both at the same time, they will meet in the middle of the line, and seem to fight. Then they will run back and return with great violence; which will have a very pleasing effect. The line for these rockets must be very long, or they will strike too hard together.

83. Chinese Flyers.

Cases for flyers may be made of different sizes, from 1 to 8 oz.; they must be made thick of paper, and 8 interior diameters long; they are rolled in the same manner as tourbillons, with a straight pasted edge, and pinched close at one end. The method of filling them is, the case being put in a mould, whose cylinder, or foot, must be flat at top without a nipple, fill it within ½ a diameter of the middle; then ram in ½ a diameter of clay, on that as much composition as before, on which drive ½ a diameter of clay; then pinch the case close, and drive it down flat; after this is done bore a hole exactly thro' the centre of the clay in the middle; then in the opposite sides, at both ends, make a vent; and in that side you intend to fire first make a small hole to the composition near the clay in the middle, Of Wheels, from which carry a quick-match, covered with a single paper, to the vent at the other end; then, when the charge is burnt on one side, it will, by means of the quick-match, communicate to the charge on the other, (which may be of a different fort.) The flyers being thus made, put an iron pin, that must be fixed in the work on which they are to be fired, and on which they are to run, through the hole in the middle; on the end of this pin must be a nut to keep the flyer from running off. If you would have them turn back again after they are burnt, make both the vents at the ends on the same side, which will alter its course the contrary way.

84. Table Rockets,

Are designed merely to show the truth of driving, and the judgment of a fire-worker, they having no other effect, when fired, than spinning round in the same place where they begin, till they are burnt out, and showing nothing more than an horizontal circle of fire.

The method of making these rockets is—Have a cone turned out of hard wood 2½ inches diameter, and as much high; round the base of it draw a line; on this line fix four spokes, two inches long each, so as to stand one opposite the other; then fill 4 nine-inch 1 lb cases with any strong composition, within 2 inches of the top; these cases are made like tourbillons, and must be rammed with the greatest exactness.

Your rockets being filled, fix their open ends on the short spokes; then in the side of each case bore a hole near the clay; all these holes, or vents, must be so made that the fire of each case may act the same way; from these vents carry leaders to the top of the cone, and tie them together. When you would fire the rockets, set them on a smooth table, and light the leaders in the middle, and all the cases will fire together (see fig. 14) and spin on the point of the cone.

These rockets may be made to rise like tourbillons, by making the cases shorter, and boring four holes in the under side of each at equal distances: this being done, they are called double tourbillons.

Note. All the vents in the under side of the cases must be lighted at once; and the sharp point of the cone cut off, at which place make it spherical.

Sect. V. Of Wheels and other Works.

85. Single Vertical Wheels.

There are different forts of vertical wheels; some having their fells of a circular form, others of an hexagon, octagon, or decagon form, or any number of sides, according to the length of the cases you design for the wheel; your spokes being fixed in the nave, nail slips of tin, with their edges turned up, so as to form grooves for the cases to lie in, from the end of one spoke to another; then tie your cases in the grooves head to tail, in the same manner as those on the horizontal water-wheel, so that the cases successively taking fire from one another, will keep the wheel in an equal rotation. Two of these wheels are very oft fired together, one on each side of a building; and both lighted at the same time, and all the cases filled alike, to make them keep time together; which they will do if made by the following directions. In all the cases of both wheels, except the first, on each wheel drive two or three ladles full of slow fire, in any part of the cases; but be careful to ram the same quantity in each case, and in the end of one of the cases, on each wheel, you may ram one ladle full of dead-fire composition, which must be very lightly drove; you may also make many changes of fire by this method.

Let the hole in the nave of the wheel be lined with brass, and made to turn on a smooth iron spindle. On the end of this spindle let there be a nut, to screw off and on; when you have put the wheel on the spindle, screw on the nut, which will keep the wheel from flying off. Let the mouth of the first case be a little raised. See fig. 15. Vertical wheels are made from 10 inches to 3 feet diameter, and the size of the cases must differ accordingly; 4 oz. cases will do for wheels of 14 or 16 inches diameter, which is the proportion generally used. The best wood for wheels of all forts, is a light and dry breed.

86. Horizontal Wheels,

Are best when their fells are made circular; in the middle of the top of the nave must be a pintle, turned out of the same piece as the nave, two inches long, and equal in diameter to the bore of one of the cases of the wheel: there must be a hole bored up the centre of the nave, within half an inch of the top of the pintle. The wheel being made, nail at the end of each spoke (of which there should be 6 or 8) a piece of wood, with a groove cut in it to receive the case. Fix these pieces in such a manner that half the cases may incline upwards and half downwards, and that, when they are tied on, their heads and tails may come very near together; from the tail of one case to the mouth of the other carry a leader, which secure with pasted paper. Besides these pipes, it will be necessary to put a little meal-powder inside the pasted paper, to blow off the pipe, that there may be no obstruction to the fire from the cases. By means of these pipes the cases will successively take fire, burning one upwards and the other downwards. On the pintle fix a case of the same fort as those on the wheel; this case must be fired by a leader from the mouth of the last case on the wheel, which case must play downwards: instead of a common case in the middle, you may put a case of Chinese fire, long enough to burn as long as two or three of the cases on the wheel.

Horizontal wheels are oft fired two at a time, and made to keep time like vertical wheels, only they are made without any slow or dead fire; 10 or 12 inches will be enough for the diameter of wheels with 6 spokes. Fig. 16. represents a wheel on fire, with the first case burning.

87. Spiral Wheels,

Are only double horizontal wheels, and made thus: The nave must be about 6 inches long, and somewhat thicker than the single fort; instead of the pintle at top, make a hole for the case to be fixed in, and two sets of spokes, one set near the top of the nave, and the other near the bottom. At the end of each spoke cut a groove wherein you tie the cases, there being no fell; the spokes should not be more than 3½ inches long from the nave, so that the wheel may not be more than 8 or 9 inches diameter; the cases are placed in such a manner, that those at top play down and those at bottom play up, but let the third or fourth case play horizontally. The case in the middle may begin with any of Of Wheels, the others you please: 6 spokes will be enough for each &c. set, so that the wheel may consist of 12 cases, besides that on the top: the cases 6 inches each.

88. Plural Wheels.

Are made to turn horizontally, and to consist of three sets of spokes, placed 6 at top, 6 at bottom, and 4 in the middle, which must be a little shorter than the rest: let the diameter of the wheel be 10 inches; the cases must be tied on the ends of the spokes in grooves cut on purpose, or in pieces of wood nailed on the ends of the spokes, with grooves cut in them as usual: in clothing these wheels, make the upper set of cases play obliquely downwards, the bottom set obliquely upwards, and the middle set horizontally. In placing the leaders, you must order it so that the cases may burn thus, viz. first up, then down, then horizontal, and so on with the rest. But another change may be made, by driving in the end of the 8th case two or three ladles full of slow fire, to burn till the wheel has stopped its course; then let the other cases be fixed the contrary way, which will make the wheel run back again: for the case at top you may put a small gerbe; and let the cases on the spokes be short, and filled with a strong brilliant charge.

89. Illuminated Spiral Wheel.

First have a circular horizontal wheel made two feet diameter, with a hole quite through the nave; then take three thin pieces of deal, three feet long each, and ½ of an inch broad each: one end of each of these pieces nail to the fell of the wheel, at an equal distance from one another, and the other end nail to a block with a hole in its bottom, which must be perpendicular with that in the block of the wheel, but not so large. The wheel being thus made, have a hoop placed down very thin and flat; then nail one end of it to the fell of the wheel, and wind it round the three sticks in a spiral line from the wheel to the block at top: on the top of this block fix a case of Chinese fire; on the wheel you may place any number of cases, which must incline downwards, and burn two at a time. If the wheel should consist of 10 cases, you may let the illuminations and Chinese fire begin with the second cases. The spindle for this wheel must be a little longer than the cone, and made very smooth at top, on which the upper block is to turn, and the whole weight of the wheel to rest. See fig. 17.

90. Double Spiral Wheel.

For this wheel the block, or nave, must be as long as the height of the worms, or spiral lines, but must be made very thin, and as light as possible. In this block must be fixed several spokes, which must diminish in length, from the wheel to the top, so as not to exceed the surface of a cone of the same height. To the ends of these spokes nail the worms, which must cross each other several times: these worms clothe with illuminations, the same as those on the single wheels; but the horizontal wheel you may clothe as you like. At top of the worm place a case of spur-fire, or an amber light. See fig. 18. This figure is shown without leaders, to prevent a confusion of lines.

91. Balloon Wheels.

Are made to turn horizontally: they must be made 2 feet diameter, without any spokes; and very strong, with any number of sides. On the top of a wheel range and fix in pots, 3 inches diameter and 7 inches high each, as many of these as there are cases on the wheel: near the bottom of each pot make a small rent; into each of these rents carry a leader from the tail of each case; some of the pots load with stars, and some with serpents, crackers, &c. As the wheels turn, the pots will successively be fired, and throw into the air a great variety of fires.

92. Fruitons Wheels.

First have a nave made 9 inches long and 3 in diameter: near the bottom of this nave fix 8 spokes, with a hole in the end of each, large enough to receive a 2 or 4 ounce case: each of these spokes may be 14 inches long from the block. Near the top of this block fix 8 more of the same spokes, exactly over the others, but not so long by 2 inches. As this wheel is to run horizontally, all the cases in the spokes must play obliquely upwards, and all them in the spokes at bottom obliquely downwards. This being done, have a small horizontal wheel made with 8 spokes, each 5 inches long from the block: on the top of this wheel place a case of brilliant fire: all the cases on this wheel must play in an oblique direction downwards, and burn 2 at a time, and those on the large wheel 4 at a time; that is, 2 of those in the top set of spokes, and 2 of those in the bottom set of spokes.

The 4 first cases on the large wheel, and the 2 first on the small, must be fired at the same time, and the brilliant fire at top, at the beginning of the last cases. The cases of the wheels may be filled with a grey charge. When these wheels are completed, you must have a strong iron spindle, made 4 feet 6 inches long, and fixed perpendicular on the top of a stand: on this put the large wheel, whose nave must have a hole quite through from the bottom to the top. This hole must be large enough to turn easily round the bottom of the spindle, at which place there must be a shoulder, to keep the wheel from touching the stand: at the top of the spindle put the small wheel, and join it to a large one with a leader, in order to fire them both together.

93. Cascade of Fire.

Are made of any size; but one made according to the dimensions of that shewn in fig. 1, will be large enough for 8-oz. cases. Let the distance from A to B, be 3 feet; from B to C, 2 feet 6 inches; and from CD, 2 feet; and let the cross piece at A, be 4 feet long: then from each end of this piece, draw a line to D; then make the other cross pieces so long as to come within those lines. The top piece D may be of any length, so as to hold the cases, at a little distance from each other; all the cross pieces are fixed horizontally, and supported by brackets; the bottom cross piece should be about 1 foot 6 inches broad in the middle, the second 1 foot, the third 9 inches, and the top piece 4 inches: the cases may be made of any length, but must be filled with a brilliant charge. On the edges of the cross pieces must be nailed bits of wood, with a groove cut in each piece, large enough for a case to lie in. These bits of wood are fixed so as to incline downwards, and that the fire from one tier of cases may play over the other. All the cases being tied fast on, carry leaders from one to the other; and let there be a pipe hung from the mouth of one of the cases, covered at the end with a single paper, which you burn to fire the cascade. 94. The Fire-Tree.

To make a fire-tree, as shown by fig. 2, you must first have a piece of wood 6 feet long, and 3 inches square; then at E, 9 inches from the top, make a hole in the front, and in each side; or, instead of holes, you may fix short pegs, to fit the inside of the cases. At F, 9 inches from E, fix 3 more pegs; at G, 1 foot 9 inches from F, fix 3 pegs; at H, 9 inches from G, fix 3 pegs; at I, 9 inches from H, fix 3 pegs, inclining downwards; but all the other pegs must incline upwards, that the cases may have the same inclination as you see in the figure: then at top place a 4-inch mortar, loaded with stars, rains, or crackers. In the middle of this mortar place a case filled with any sort of charge, but let it be fired with the other cases; a brilliant charge will do for all the cases; but the mortar may be made of any diameter, and the tree of any size; and on it any number of cases, provided they are placed in the manner described.

95. Chinese Fountains.

To make a Chinese fountain, you must have a perpendicular piece of wood 7 feet long and 2½ inches square. Sixteen inches from the top, fix on the front a cross-piece 1 inch thick, and 2½ broad, with the broad side up; below this, fix 3 more pieces of the same width and thickness, at 16 inches from each other; let the bottom rail be 5 feet long, and the others of such a length as to allow the fire-pumps to stand in the middle of the intervals of each other. The pyramid being thus made, fix in the holes made in the bottom rail, 5 fire-pumps, at equal distances; on the 2d rail, place 4 pumps; on the 3d, 3; on the 4th, 2; and on the top of the post, 1; but place them all to incline a little forwards, that, when they throw out the stars, they may not strike against the cross rails. Having fixed your fire-pumps, clothe them with leaders, so that they may all be fired together. See fig. 3.

96. Of illuminated Globes with horizontal Wheels.

The hoops for these globes may be made of wood, tin, or iron wire, about 2 feet diameter. For a single globe take 2 hoops, and tie them together, one within the other, at right angles; then have a horizontal wheel made, whose diameter must be a little wider than the globe, and its nave 6 inches long; on the top of which the globe is fixed, so as to stand 3 or 4 inches from the wheel; on this wheel you may put any number of cases, filled with what charge you like; but let 2 of them burn at a time: they may be placed horizontally, or to incline downwards, just as you choose. Now, when the wheel is clothed, fix on the hoops as many illuminations as will stand within 2½ inches of each other; these you fasten on the hoops with small iron binding wire; and when they are all on, put on your pipes of communication, which must be so managed as to light them all with the 2d or 3d case on the wheel. The spindle on which the globe is to run must go through the block of the wheel, up to the inside of the top of the globe; where must be fixed a bit of brass, or iron, with a hole in it to receive the point of the spindle, on which the whole weight of the wheel is to bear, as in fig. 4, which represents a globe on its spindle. By this method may be made a crown, which is done by having the hoops bent in the form of a crown. Sometimes globes and crowns are ordered so as to stand still, and the wheel only to turn round; but when you would have the globe or crown of wheels to stand still, and the wheel to run by itself, the block of the wheel must not be so long, nor the spindle any longer than to just raise the globe a little above the wheel; and the wheel-cases and illumination must begin together.

97. Dodecahedron.

So called because it nearly represents a twelve-sided figure, is made thus. First have a ball turned out of some hard wood, 14 inches diameter: when done, divide its surface into 14 equal parts, from which bore holes 1½ inch diameter, perpendicular to the centre, so that they may all meet in the middle; then let there be turned in the inside of each hole a female screw; and to all the holes but one, must be made a round spoke 5 feet long, with 4 inches of the screw at one end to fit the holes; then in the screw-end of all the spokes bore a hole, 5 inches up, which must be bored slanting, so as to come out at one side, a little above the screw; from which cut a small groove along the spoke, within 6 inches of the other end, where you make another hole through to the other side of the spoke. In this end fix a spindle, on which put a small wheel of 3 or 4 sides, each side 6 or 7 inches long; these sides must have grooves cut in them, large enough to receive a 2 or 4 oz. case. When these wheels are clothed, put them on the spindles, and at the end of each spindle put a nut to keep the wheel from falling off. The wheels being thus fixed, carry a pipe from the mouth of the first case on each wheel, through the hole in the side of the spoke, and from thence along the groove, and through the other hole, so as to hang out at the screw-end about an inch. The spokes being all prepared in this manner, you must have a post, on which you intend to fire the work, with an iron screw in the top of it, to fit one of the holes in the ball; on this screw fix the ball; then in the top hole of the ball put a little meal-powder, and some loose quick-match: then screw in all the spokes; and in one side of the ball bore a hole, in which put a leader, and secure it at the end; and your work will be ready to be fired. By this leader the powder and match in the centre is fired, which will light the match at the ends of the spokes all at once, whereby all the wheels will be lighted at once. There may be an addition to this piece, by fixing a small globe on each wheel, or one on the top wheel only. A grey charge will be proper for the wheel-cases.

98. The Tree-Tree of brilliant fire.

Is represented by fig. 5, as it appears when burning. First, let A be an upright piece of wood, 4 feet long, 2 inches broad, and 1 thick: at top of this piece, on the flat side, fix a hoop 14 inches diameter; and round its edge and front place illuminations, and in the centre a 5-pointed star; then at E, which is 1½ foot from the edge of the hoop, place 2 cases of brilliant fire, one on each side: these cases should be one foot long each; below these fix 2 more cases of the same size, and at such a distance, that their mouths may almost meet them at top; then close to the ends of these cases, fix 2 more of the same cases; they must stand parallel to them at E. The cases being thus fixed, clothe them with leaders; so that they, with the illuminations and star at top, may all take fire together. 99. Stars with points for regulated pieces, &c.

These stars are made of different sizes, according to the work for which they are intended: they are made with cases from 1 oz. to 1 lb. but in general with 4-oz. cases, 4 or 5 inches long; the cases must be rolled with paste, and twice as thick as paper as a rocket of the same bore. Having rolled a case, pinch one end of it quite close; then drive in a diameter of clay; and when the case is dry, fill it with composition, 2 or 3 inches to the length of the cases with which it is to burn: at top of the charge drive some clay; as the ends of these cases are seldom punched, they would be liable to take fire. Having filled a case, divide the circumference of it at the pinched end close to the clay into 5 equal parts; then bore 5 holes with a gimlet, about the size of the neck of a common 4-oz. case, into the composition; from one hole to the other carry a quick-match, and secure it with paper: this paper must be put on in the manner of that on the ends of wheel-cases, so that the hollow part, which projects from the end of the case, may serve to receive a leader from any other work, to give fire to the points of the stars. These stars may be made with any number of points.

100. Fixed Sun with a transparent face.

To make a sun of the best sort there should be two rows of cases, as in fig. 6, which will show a double glory, and make the rays strong and full. The frame, or sun-wheel, must be made thus: Have a circular flat nave made very strong, 12 inches diameter: to this fix 6 strong flat spokes, A, B, C, D, E, F. On the front of these fix a circular fell, 5 feet diameter; within which fix another fell, the length of one of the sun-cases less in diameter; within this fix a 3d fell, whose diameter must be less than the 2d by the length of 1 case and 1-3d. The wheel being made, divide the falls into so many equal parts as you would have cases, (which may be done from 24 to 44): at each division fix a flat iron staple; these staples must be made to fit the cases, to hold them fast on the wheel; let the staples be so placed, that one row of cases may lie in the middle of the intervals of the other.

In the centre of the block of the sun drive a spindle, on which put a small hexagon wheel, whose cases must be filled with the same charge as the cases of the sun: 2 cases of this wheel must burn at a time, and begin with them on the falls. Having fixed on all the cases, carry pipes of communication from one to the other, as you see in the figure, and from one side of the sun to the wheel in the middle, and from thence to the other side of the sun. These leaders will hold the wheel steady while the sun is fixing up, and will also be a sure method of lighting both cases of the wheel together. A sun thus made is called a brilliant sun, because the wood work is entirely covered with fire from the wheel in the middle, so that there appears nothing but sparks of brilliant fire: but if you would have a transparent face in the centre, you must have one made of pasteboard of any size. The method of making a face is, by cutting out the eyes, nose, and mouth, for the sparks of the wheel to appear through; but instead of this face, you may have one painted on oiled paper, or Persian silk, strained tight on a hoop; which hoop must be supported by 3 or 4 pieces of wire at 6 inches distance from the wheel in the centre, so that the light of it may illuminate the face. By this method you may have, in the front of a sun, VAT REX, cut in pasteboard, or Apollo painted on silk; but, for a small collection, a sun with a single glory, and a wheel in front, will be most suitable. Half-pound cases, filled to inches with composition, will be a good size for a sun of 5 feet diameter; but, if larger, the cases must be greater in proportion.

101. Three Vertical Wheels illuminated, which turn on their own naves upon a horizontal table.

A plan of this is shown by fig. 7. Let D be a deal table three feet in diameter: this table must be fixed horizontally on the top of a post; on this post must be a perpendicular iron spindle, which must come through the centre of the table: then let A, B, C, be 3 spokes joined to a triangular flat piece of wood, in the middle of which make a hole to fit easily over the spindle: let E, F, G, be pieces of wood, 4 or 5 inches long each, and 2 inches square, fixed on the under sides of the spokes; in these pieces make holes lengthwise to receive the thin part of the blocks of the wheels, which, when in, are prevented from coming out by a small iron pin being run through the end of each. K, L, M, are 3 vertical octagon wheels, 18 inches diameter each: the blocks of these wheels must be long enough for 3 or 4 inches to rest on the table; round which part drive a number of sharp points of wire, which must not project out of the blocks more than 1-16th of an inch: the use of these points is, that, when the blocks run round, they will stick in the table, and help the wheels forward: if the naves are made of strong wood, one inch will be enough for the diameter of the thin part, which should be made to turn easily in the holes in the pieces E, F, G. On the front of the wheels make 4 or 5 circles of strong wire, or flat hoops, and tie on them as many illuminations as they will hold at 2 inches from each other: instead of circles, you may make spiral lines, clothed with illuminations, at the same distance from each other as those on the hoops. When illuminations are fixed on a spiral line in the front of a wheel, they must be placed a little on the slant, the contrary way that the wheel runs: the cases for these wheels may be filled with any coloured charge, but must burn only one at a time.

The wheels being thus prepared, you must have a globe, crown, or spiral wheel, to put on the spindle in the middle of the table: this spindle should be just long enough to raise the wheel of the globe, crown, or spiral wheel, so high that its fire may play over the 3 vertical wheels: by this means their fires will not be confused, nor will the wheels receive any damage from the fire of each other. In clothing this work, let the leaders be so managed, that all the wheels may light together, and the illuminations after 2 cases of each wheel are burnt.

102. Illuminated Chandelier.

Illuminated works are much admired by the Italians, and indeed are a great addition to a collection of works: in a grand exhibition an illuminated piece should be fired after every 2 or 3 wheels, or fixed pieces of common and brilliant fires; and likewise illuminated works may be made cheap, quick, and easy.

To make an illuminated chandelier, you must first have one made of thin wood. See fig. 8. The chandelier Of Wheels, deliver being made, bore in the front of the branches, &c., and in the body, and also in the crown at top, as many holes for illuminations as they will contain at 3 inches distance from each other; in these holes put illuminations filled with white, blue, or brilliant charge. Having fixed in the port-fires, clothe them with leaders, so that the chandelier and crown may light together. The small circles on this figure represent the mouths of the illuminations, which must project straight from the front.

103. Illuminated Yew-Tree.

First have a tree made of wood, such as is shown by fig. 9. The middle piece, or stem, on which the branches are fixed, must be 8 feet 6 inches high: at the bottom of this piece draw a line, at right angles, 2 feet 6 inches long at each side; then from L, which is 1 foot 6 inches from the bottom, draw a line on each side to C and D; these lines will give the length of the 2 first branches. Then put on the 2 top branches parallel to them at bottom: let the length of each of these branches be 1 foot from the stem: from the ends of these 2 branches draw a line to C and D: then fix on 5 more branches at an equal distance from each other, and their length will be determined by the lines AC and ED. When the branches are fixed, place illuminating port-fires on the top of each, as many as you choose: behind the top of the stem fasten a garbe, or white fountain, which must be fired at the beginning of the illuminations on the tree.

104. Flaming Stars with Brilliant Wheels.

To make a flaming star, you must first have made a circular piece of strong wood about 1 inch thick and 2 feet diameter: round this block fix 8 points, 2 feet 6 inches long each; 4 of these points must be straight and 4 flaming: these points being joined on very strong, and even with the surface of the block, nail tin or pasteboard on their edges, from the block to the end of each, where they must be joined: this tin must project in front 8 inches, and be joined where they meet at the block; round the front of the block fix 4 pieces of thick iron wire, 8 inches long each, equally distant from each other: this being done, cut a piece of pasteboard round, 2 feet diameter, and draw on it a star, as may be seen in fig. 10. Cut out this star, and on the back of it paste oiled paper; then paint each point half red and half yellow, lengthwise; but the body of the star must be left open, wherein must run a brilliant wheel, made thus: Have a light block torned 9 inches long: at each end of it fix 6 spokes; at the end of each spoke put a 2-oz. case of brilliant fire: the length of these cases must be proportion to the wheel, and the diameter of the wheel when the cases are on must be a little less than the diameter of the body of the small star: the cases on the spokes in front must have their mouths incline outwards, and those on the inside spokes must be placed so as to form a vertical circle of fire. When you place your leaders, carry the first pipe from the tail of 1 of the cases in front to the mouth of 1 of the inside cases, and from the tail of that to another in front, and so on to all the cases. Your wheel being made, put it on a spindle, in the centre of the star; this spindle must have a shoulder at bottom, to keep the wheel at a little distance from the block. This wheel must be kept on the spindle by a nut at the end; having fixed on the wheel, fasten the transparent star to the 4 pieces of wire: when you fire it, you will see only a common horizontal wheel; but when the first case is burnt out, it will fire one of the vertical cases, which will show the transparent star, and fill the large flames and points with fire; then it will again appear like a common wheel, and so on for 12 changes.

105. Projected regulated Piece of nine Mutations.

A regulated piece, if well executed, is as curious as any in fire-works: it consists of fixed and moveable pieces on one spindle, representing various figures, which take fire successively one from another, without any affluence after lighting the first mutation. See fig. 11.

I. Names of the mutations, with the colour of fire and size of the case belonging to each.

First mutation is a hexagon vertical wheel, illuminated in front with small port-fires tied on the spokes; this wheel must be clothed with 2-oz. cases, filled with black charge; the length of these cases is determined by the size of the wheel, but must burn singly.

Second mutation is a fixed piece, called a golden glory, by reason of the cases being filled with spur-fire. The cases must stand perpendicular to the block on which they are fixed, so that, when burning, they may represent a glory of fire. This mutation is generally composed of five or seven 2-oz. cases.

Third mutation is moveable; and is only an octagon vertical wheel, clothed with 4-oz. cases, filled with brilliant charge: 2 of these cases must burn at a time. In this wheel you may make changes of fire.

Fourth mutation, is a fixed gun of brilliant fire, consisting of 12 4-oz. cases: the necks of these cases must be a little larger than those of 4-oz. wheel-cases. In this mutation may be made a change of fire, by filling the cases half with brilliant charge, and half with grey.

Fifth mutation, is a fixed piece, called the porcupine's quills. This piece consists of 12 spokes, standing perpendicular to the block in which they are fixed; on each of these spokes, near the end, must be placed a 4-oz. case of brilliant fire. All these cases must incline either to the right or left, so that they may all play one way.

Sixth mutation, is a standing piece, called the cross fire. This mutation consists of 8 spokes fixed in a block; near the end of each of those spokes must be tied two 4-oz. cases of white charge, one across the other, so that the fires from the cases on one spoke may interfere the fire from the cases on the other.

Seventh mutation, is a fixed wheel, with 2 circular fells, on which are placed 16 8-ounce cases of brilliant fire, in the form of a star. This piece is called a fixed star of wild-fire.

Eighth mutation. This is a beautiful piece, called a brilliant star-piece. It consists of 6 spokes, which are strengthened by 2 fells of a hexagon form, at some distance from each other: at the end of each spoke, in the front, is fixed a brilliant star of 5 points; and on each side of every star is placed a 4-oz. case of black or grey charge: these cases must be placed with their mouths sidewise, so that their fires may cross each other.

Ninth mutation, is a wheel-piece. This is composed of Of Wheels, of 6 long spokes, with a hexagon vertical wheel at the end of each; these wheels run on spindles in the front of the spokes; all the wheels are lighted together: 2 oz. cases will do for these wheels, and may be filled with any coloured charge.

II. Proportions of the mutations, with the method of conveying the fire from one to the other, and the distance they stand one from the other on the spindle.

First mutation, must be a hexagon vertical wheel, 14 inches diameter; on one side of the block, whose diameter is 2½ inches, is fixed a tin barrel, A, (see fig. 11, n° 1.) This barrel must be a little less in diameter than the nave; let the length of the barrel and block be 6 inches. Having fixed the cases on the wheel, carry a leader from the tail of the last case into the tin barrel through a hole made on purpose, 2 inches from the block; at the end of this leader let there be about 1 inch or 2 of loose match; but take care to secure well the hole wherein the pipe is put, to prevent any sparks falling in, which would light the second mutation before its time, and confuse the whole.

Second mutation is thus made. Have a nave turned 2½ inches diameter, and 3 long; then let ½ an inch of that end which faces the first wheel be turned so as to fit easy into the tin barrel of the first mutation, which must turn round it without touching. On the other end of the block fix a tin barrel, B, n° 2. This barrel must be 6 inches long, and only half an inch of it to fit on the block. Round the nave fix 5 spokes, 1½ inch long each; the diameter of the spokes must be equal to a 2-oz. former. On these spokes put five 7-inch 2-oz. cases of spur-fire, and carry leaders from the mouth of one to the other, that they may all light together. Then from the mouth of one of the cases, carry a leader thro' a holed bored flintwife in the nave, from between the spokes, to the front of the block near the spindle hole; the end of this leader must project out of the hole into the barrel of the first mutation, so that when the pipe which comes from the end of the last case on the first wheel flashes, it may take fire, and light the 2d mutation. To communicate the fire to the 3d mutation, bore a hole near the bottom of one of the 5 cases to the composition, and from thence carry a leader into a hole made in the middle of the barrel B: this hole must be covered with pasted paper.

Third mutation, may be either an octagon or hexagon wheel, 20 inches diameter; let the nave be 3½ inches diameter, and 3½ inches; 1½ inch of the front of the nave must be made to fit in the barrel B. On the other end of the block fix a tin barrel, C, n° 3. This barrel must be 6½ inches in length, one inch of which must fit over the block. The cases of this wheel must burn 2 at a time; and from the mouths of the 2 first cases carry a leader, through holes in the nave, into the barrel of the second mutation, after the usual manner: but besides these leaders let a pipe go across the wheel from one first case to the other; than from the tail of one of the last cases carry a pipe into a hole in the middle of the barrel C: at the end of this pipe let there be some loose quick-match.

Fourth and fifth mutations. These may be described under one head, as their naves are made of one piece, which from E to F is 14 inches; E, a block 4 inches diameter, with 10 or 12 short spokes, on which are fixed 11-inch 8-oz. cases: let the front of this block be made to fit easy in the barrel C, and clothe the cases so that they may all light together; and let a pipe be carried through a hole in the block into the barrel C, in order to receive the fire from the leader brought from the last case on the wheel. G is the nave of the 5th mutation, whose diameter must be 4½ inches: in this nave fix 10 or 12 spokes 1½ foot in length each; these spokes must stand 7 inches distant from the spokes of the 4th mutation; and at the end of each spoke tie a 4-oz. case, as n° 5. All these cases are to be lighted together, by a leader brought from the end of one of the cases on N° 4. Let F and H be of the same piece of wood as E and G, but as much thinner as possible, to make the work light.

Sixth and seventh mutations. The blocks of these 2 mutations are turned out of one piece of wood, whose length from F to P is 15 inches. L, a block 5 inches diameter, in which are fixed 8 spokes, each 2 feet 4 inches long; at the end of each spoke tie two 4-oz. cases, as N° 6. All these cases must be fired at the same time, by a pipe brought from the end of one of the cases on the 5th mutation. Let the distance between the spokes at L, and those in the 5th mutation, be 7 inches. M, the nave of the 7th mutation, whose diameter must be 5½ inches: in this nave fix 8 spokes, and on the front of them 2 circular fells, one of 4 feet 8 inches diameter, and one of 3 feet 11 diameter; on these fells tie 16 8-oz. or pound cases as in N° 7, and carry leaders from one to the other, so that they may be all fired together. This mutation must be fired by a leader brought from the tail of one of the cases on the 6th mutation.

Eighth and ninth mutations. The blocks of these may be turned out of one piece, whose length from P to D must be 12 inches. O, the block of the 8th mutation, which must be 6 inches diameter; and in it must be fixed 6 spokes, each 3 feet in length, strengthened by an hexagon fell within 3 or 4 inches of the ends of the spokes: close to the end of each spoke, in the front, fix a five-pointed brilliant star; then 7 inches below each star, tie two 10-inch 8 oz. cases, so that the upper ends of the cases may rest on the falls, and their ends on the spokes: Each of these cases must be placed parallel to the opposite fell: (see N° 8.) NNN, &c. are the cases, and kkk, &c. the stars.

The 9th mutation is thus made. Let D be a block 7 inches diameter. In this block must be screwed 6 spokes, 6 feet long each, with holes and grooves for leaders, as those in the dodecahedron; at the end of each spoke, in the front, fix a spindle for a hexagon vertical wheel, 10 inches diameter, as in N° 9. When these wheels are on, carry a leader from each into the block, so that they may all meet; then lead a pipe from the end of one of the cases of the 8th mutation, through a hole bored in the block D, to meet the leaders from the vertical wheels, so that they may all be fired together.

The spindles for larger pieces are required to be made very strong, and as exact as possible: for a piece of 9 mutations, let the spindle be at the large end 1 inch diameter, and continue that thickness as far as the 7th mutation; and thence to the 5th, let its diameter be ¼ of an inch; from the 5th to the 4th, Of Wheels; 5-8ths of an inch; from the 4th to the 2d, 3 inches; &c. from the 2d to the end, 3-8ths of an inch. At the small end must be a nut to keep on the first wheel, and at the thick end must be a large nut, as shown by the figure; so that the screw part of the spindle being put through a hole, and a nut screwed on tight, the spindle will be held fast and steady; but you are to observe, that that part of the spindle on which the moveable pieces are to run be made long enough for the wheels to run easily without flicking; the fixed pieces being made on different blocks, the leaders must be joined, after they are fixed on the spindle. The best method of preventing the fixed mutations from moving on the spindle is, to make that part of the spindle which goes through them square; but as it would be difficult to make them square holes through such long blocks as are sometimes required, it will be best to make them thus: Bore a hole a little larger than the diameter of the spindle; and at each end of the block, over the hole, fasten a piece of brass with a square hole in it to fit the spindle.

106. To make an Horizontal Wheel change to a Vertical Wheel with a Sun in front.

The sudden change of this piece is very pleasing; and gives great surprise to those who are not acquainted with the contrivance. A wheel for this purpose should be about three feet diameter, and its fall circular; on which tie 16 half-pound cases filled with brilliant charge; two of these cases must burn at a time; and on each end of the nave must be a tin barrel of the same construction as those on the regulated piece. The wheel being completed, prepare the post or stand thus: First have a stand made of any height, about three or four inches square; then saw off from the top a piece two feet long; this piece join again at the place where it was cut, with a hinge on one side, so that it may lift up and down in the front of the stand; then fix on the top of the bottom part of the stand, on each side, a bracket; which brackets must project at right angles with the stand, one foot from the front, for the short piece to rest on. These brackets must be placed a little above the joint of the post, so that when the upper stand falls, it may lie between them at right angles with the bottom stand: which may be done by fixing a piece of wood, one foot long, between the brackets, and even with the top of the bottom stand; then, as the brackets rise above the bottom stand, they will form a channel for the short post to lie in, and keep it steady without straining the hinge. On the side of the short post, opposite the hinge, nail a piece of wood, of such a length, that, when the post is perpendicular, it may reach about 1/2 foot down the long post; to which being tied, it will hold the short stand upright. The stand being thus prepared, in the top of it fix a spindle 10 inches long; on this spindle put the wheel; then fix on a brilliant sun with a single glory; the diameter of this sun must be 6 inches less than that of the wheel. When you fire this piece, light the wheel first, and let it run horizontally till four cases are consumed; then from the end of the fourth case carry a leader into the tin barrel that turns over the end of the stand; this leader must be met by another brought through the top of the post, from a case filled with a strong port-fire charge, and tied to the bottom post, with its mouth facing the pack-thread which holds up the stand; so that when this case is lighted, it will burn the pack-thread, and let the wheel fall forward, &c., by which means it will become vertical; then from the last case of the wheel, carry a leader into the barrel next the sun, which will begin as soon as the wheel is burnt out.

107. Grand Volute illuminated with a projected Wheel in front.

First have two hoops made of strong iron wire, one of 6 feet diameter, and one of 4 feet 2 inches; these hoops must be joined to scrolls A, A, A, &c. as in fig. 1. These scrolls must be made of the same sort of wire as the hoops; on these scrolls tie, with iron binding wire, as many illuminating port-fires as they will hold, at two inches distance; clothe these port-fires with leaders, so that they may all take fire together. Then let C be a circular wheel of four spokes, 3 feet 6 inches diameter; and on its fell tie as many 4-oz. cases, head to tail, as will complete the circle, only allowing a sufficient distance between the cases, that the fire may pass free; which may be done by cutting the upper part of the end of each case a little shelving: on each spoke fix a 4-oz. case, about three inches from the fell of the wheel: these cases are to burn one at a time, and the fifth of them to begin with those on the fell, of which four are to burn at a time; so that the wheel will last no longer than ¼ of the cases on the fell, which in number should be 16 or 20. On the front of the wheel form a spiral line with strong wire, on which tie port-fires, placing them on a slant, with their mouths to face the same way as the cases on the wheel; all these port-fires must be fired with the second cases of wheel. Let D, D, D, &c. be spokes of wood, all made to screw into a block in the centre; each of these spokes may be in length about 4 feet 6 inches; in the top of each fix a spindle, and on each spindle put a spiral wheel of 8 spokes, such as E, E, E, &c. The blocks of these wheels must have a hole at top for the centre cases, and the spindle must have nuts screwed on their ends; which nuts should fit in the holes at top of the blocks, so that all the wheels must be put on before you fix in the centre cases: as some of these wheels, by reason of their situation, will not bear on the nut, it will be necessary to have smooth shoulders made on the spindles for the blocks to run on. The cases of these wheels are to burn double; and the method of firing them is, by carrying a leader from each down the spokes into the block in the centre, as in the dodecahedron, but the centre case of each wheel must begin with the two last cases as usual. It is to be observed, that the large circular wheel in front must have a tin barrel on its block, into which a pipe must be carried from one of the second cases on the wheel; this pipe being met by another from the large block, in which the 8 spokes are screwed, will fire all the spiral wheels and the illuminating port-fires at the same time. The cases of the projected wheel may be filled with a white charge, and those of the spiral wheels with a grey.

108. Moon and Seven Stars.

Let fig. 2. be a smooth circular board 6 feet diameter; out of the middle of it cut a circular piece 12 or 14 inches diameter; and over the vacancy put white Persian silk, on which paint a moon's face: then let I, I, I, &c. be stars, each 4 or 5 inches diameter, cut out with five points, and covered with oiled silk: on Of Wheels, the front of the large circular board: draw a 7-pointed star, as large as the circle will allow; then on the lines which form this star, bore holes, wherein fix pointed stars. When this case is to be fired, it must be fixed upon the front of a post, on a spindle, with a wheel of brilliant fire behind the face of the moon: so that, while the wheel burns, the moon and stars will appear transparent; and when the wheel has burnt out, they will disappear, and the large star in front, which is formed of pointed stars, will begin, being lighted by a pipe of communication from the last case of the vertical wheel, behind the moon; this pipe must be managed in the same manner as those in regulated pieces.

109. Double Cone-Wheel Illuminated

This piece is represented by fig. 3. Let A be a strong hexagon wheel, 2 feet 6 inches diameter; then on each side of it fix a cone B and C: these cones are to consist of a number of hoops, supported by 3 or 4 pieces of wood, in the manner of the spiral wheels. Let the height of each cone be 3 feet 6 inches; and on all the hoops tie port-fires horizontally, with their mouths outwards, and clothe the wheel with 8-oz. cases, all to play horizontally, two at a time: the cones may be fired with the first or second case. The spindle for this piece must go through both the cones, and rise three feet above the point of the cone at top; so that its length will be 10 feet 4 inches from the top of the post H, in which it is fixed, allowing four inches for the thickness of the block of the wheel. The whole weight of the wheel and cones must bear on a shoulder in the spindle, on which the block of the wheel must turn. Near the top of the spindle must be a hole in the front, into which screw a small spindle, after the cones are on: then on this small spindle fix a sun, D, composed of sixteen 9-inch 4-oz. cases of brilliant fire; which cases must not be placed on a fell, but only stuck into a block of 6 inches diameter: then in the front of this sun must be a circular vertical wheel, 16 inches diameter; on the front of this wheel form with iron-wire a spiral line, and clothe it with illuminations after the usual method. As this wheel is not to be fired till the cones are burnt out, the method of firing it is thus: Let the hole in the block, at the top of the uppermost cone, be a little larger than the spindle which passes through it. Then, from the first case of the vertical wheel before the sun, carry a leader down the side of the spindle to the top of the block of the horizontal wheel, on which must be a tin barrel: then this leader being met by another brought from the end of the last case of the horizontal wheel, will give fire to the vertical wheel so soon as the cones are extinguished: but the sun, D, must not be fired till the vertical wheel is quite burnt out.

110. Fire-Pumps.

Cases for fire-pumps are made as those for tourbillons; only they are pasted, instead of being rolled dry. Having rolled and dried your cases, fill them: first put in a little meal-powder, and then a star; on which ram lightly a ladle or two of composition, then a little meal-powder, and on that a star, then again composition; and so on till you have filled the case. Stars for fire-pumps should not be round; but must be made either square, or flat and circular, with a hole through the middle: the quantity of powder for throwing the stars must increase as you come near the top of the case; for, if much powder be put at the bottom, it will burst the case. The stars must differ in size in this manner: Let the star which you put in first be about half less than the bore of the case; but let the next star be a little larger, and the third star a little larger than the second, and so on: let them increase in diameter till within two of the top of the case, which two must fit in tight. As the loading of fire-pumps is somewhat difficult, it will be necessary to make two or three trials before you depend on their performance: when you fill a number of pumps, take care not to put in each an equal quantity of charge between the stars, so that when they are fired they may not throw up too many stars together. Cases for fire-pumps should be made very strong, and rolled on 4 or 8 oz. formers, 10 or 12 inches long each.

111. Vertical Scroll Wheel.

This wheel may be made of any diameter, but must be constructed as in fig. 4, to do which proceed thus: Have a block made of a moderate size, in which fix four flat spokes, and on them fix a flat circular fell of wood; round the front of this fell place port-fires; then on the front of the spokes form a scroll, either with a hoop or strong iron wire; on this scroll tie cases of brilliant fire, in proportion to the wheel, head to tail, as in the figure. When you fire this wheel, light the first case near the fell; then, as the cases fire successively, you will see the circle of fire gradually diminish: but whether the illuminations on the fell begin with the scroll or not, is immaterial, that being left entirely to the maker.

N.B. This wheel may be put in the front of a regulated piece, or fired by itself, occasionally.

112. Pin-Wheels.

First roll some paper pipes, about 14 inches long each; these pipes must not be made thick of paper, two or three rounds of elephant paper being sufficient. When your pipes are thoroughly dried, you must have a tin tube 12 inches long, to fit easy into the pipes; at one end of this tube fix a small conical cup, which cone is called a funnel; then bend one end of one of the pipes, and put the funnel in at the other as far as it will reach, and fill the cup with composition: then draw out the funnel by a little at a time, shaking it up and down, and it will fill the pipe as it comes out. Having filled some pipes, have some small blocks made about one inch diameter and half an inch thick: round one of these blocks wind and paste a pipe, and to the end of this pipe join another; which must be done by twisting the end of one pipe to a point, and putting it into the end of the other with a little paste: in this manner join four or five pipes, winding them one upon the other so as to form a spiral line. Having wound on your pipes, paste two slips of paper across them to hold them together: besides these slips of paper, the pipes must be pasted together.

There is another method of making these wheels, viz., by winding on the pipe without paste, and sticking them together with sealing-wax at every half turn; so that when they are fired, the end will fall loose every time the fire passes the wax, by which means the circle of fire will be considerably increased. The formers for these pipes are made from 1½ to 4½ths of an inch diameter; and the composition for them is as follows: Meal-powder 8 oz. saltpetre 2 oz. Sect. V.

Different Pieces of Fireworks.

and sulphur; among these ingredients may be mixed a little steel-filings or the dust of cast iron: this composition should be very dry, and not made too fine, or it will stick in the funnel. These wheels may be fired on a large pin, and held in the hand with safety.

113. Fire-Globes.

There are two sorts of fire-globes; one with projected cases; the other with the cases concealed, thus:

Have a globe made of wood, of any diameter you choose, and divide the surface of it into 14 equal parts, and at each division bore a hole perpendicular to the centre: these holes must be in proportion to the cases intended to be used: in every hole except one, put a case filled with brilliant, or any other charge, and let the mouths of the cases be even with the surface of the globe; then cut in the globe a groove, from the mouth of one case to the other, for leaders, which must be carried from case to case, so that they may all be fired together; this done, cover the globe with a single paper, and paint it. These globes may be used to ornament a building.

Fire-globes with projected cases are made thus:

Your globe being made with 14 holes bored in it as usual, fix in every hole except one, a case, and let each case project from the globe two thirds of its length; then clothe all the cases with leaders, so that they may all take fire at the same time. Fire-globes are supported by a pintle, made to fit the hole in which there is no case.

114. To thread and join Leaders, and place them on different works.

Joining and placing leaders is a very essential part of fire-works, as it is on the leaders that the performance of all complex works depends; for which reason the method of conducting pipes of communication shall be here explained in as plain a manner as possible. Your works being ready to be clothed, proceed thus: Cut your pipes of a sufficient length to reach from one case to the other; then put in the quick-match, which must always be made to go in very easy: when the match is in, cut it off within about an inch of the end of the pipe, and let it project as much at the other end; then fasten the pipe to the mouth of each case with a pin, and put the loose ends of the match into the mouths of the cases, with a little meal-powder: this done to all the cases, paste over the mouth of each two or three bits of paper. The preceding method is used for large cases, and the following for small, and for illuminations: First thread a long pipe; then lay it on the tops of the cases, and cut a bit of the under side, over the mouth of each case, so that the match may appear: then pin the pipe to every other case; but before you put on the pipes, put a little meal-powder in the mouth of each case. If the cases thus clothed are port-fires on illuminated works, cover the mouth of each case with a single paper; but if they are choaked cases, situated so that a number of sparks from other works may fall on them before they are fired, secure them with three or four papers, which must be pasted on very smooth, that there may be no creases for the sparks to lodge in, which oft set fire to the works before their time. Avoid as much as possible placing the leaders too near, or one across the other so as to touch, as it may happen that the flash of one will fire the other; therefore if your works should be so formed that the leaders must cross or touch, be sure to make them very strong, and secure at the joints, and at every opening.

When a great length of pipe is required, it must be made by joining several pipes in this manner: Having put on one length of match as many pipes as it will hold, paste paper over every joint; but, if a still greater length is required, more pipes must be joined, by cutting about an inch off one side of each pipe near the end, and laying the quick-match together, and tying them fast with small twine; after which, cover the joining with pasted paper.

115. Placing Fire-works to be exhibited.

Nothing adds more to the appearance of fire-works than the placing them properly; though the manner of placing them chiefly depends on the judgment of the maker. The following are the rules generally observed, whether the works are to be fired on a building or on stands: If they are a double-set, place one wheel of a fort on each side of the building; and next to each of them, towards the centre, place a fixed piece, then wheels, and so on; leaving a sufficient distance between them for the fire to play from one without burning the other. Having fixed some of your works thus in front, place the rest behind them, in the centre of their intervals: The largest piece, which is generally a regulated or transparent piece, must be placed in the centre of the building, and behind it a gun, which must always stand above all the other works: A little before the building, or stands, place your large gerbes; and at the back of the works fix your marron batteries, pots des aigrettes, pots des brins, pots des faucissons, air-balloon, and flights of rockets: The rocket stands may be fixed behind, or anywhere else, so as not to be in the way of the works.

Single collections are fired on stands; which stands are made in the same manner as theodolite stands, only the top part must be long or short occasionally: these stands may be fixed up very soon without much trouble.

116. Order of Firing.

1. Two signal 2. Six sky rockets 3. Two honorary 4. Four caduceus 5. Vertical wheels illuminated 6. Spiral transparent stars 7. Two lines of five changes 8. Four tourbillons 9. Horizontal wheels 10. Air balloons illuminated 11. Two Chinese fountains regulating pieces of four mutations each 12. Pots des aigrettes 13. Three large gerbes 14. A flight of rockets 15. Two balloon wheels 16. Cascades of brilliant fire 17. Twelve sky-rockets 18. Two illuminated yew trees 19. Air balloons of serpents, and compound 20. Four tourbillons 21. Fruloni wheels 22. Illuminated globes with horizontal wheels 25. One pot des saucifrons 26. Two plural wheels 27. Marron battery 28. Two chandellers illuminated. 29. Range of pots des brins 30. Twelve sky-rockets 31. Two yew-trees of fire 32. Nest of serpents 33. Two double cones illuminated 34. Regulating piece of seven mutations, viz. 1. Vertical wheel illuminated 2. Golden glory 3. Octagon vertical wheel 4. Porcelain's quills 5. Crofs fires 6. Star-piece with brilliant rays 7. Six vertical wheels 35. Brilliant fun 36. Large flight of rockets.

When water-works are to be exhibited, divide them into several sets, and fire one set after every fifth or sixth change of land and air-works. Observe this rule in firing a double set of works: Always begin with sky-rockets, then two moveable pieces, then two fixed pieces, and so on; ending with a large flight of rockets, or a marron battery: if a single collection, fire a fixed piece after every wheel or two, and now and then some air and water works.

117. Fountain of Sky-rockets.

Plate CCL fig. 5 represents a fountain of 30 rockets. Let A be a perpendicular post, 16 feet high from the ground, and 4 inches square. Let the rail, or cross piece C, be 1 foot 6 inches long, 3 inches broad, and 1 inch thick. The rail D, at bottom, must be 6 feet long, 1 foot broad, and 1 inch thick. F and G are the two sides which serve to supply the rails D, E, H, I, C: these sides are 1 foot broad at bottom, and cut in the front with a regular slope, to 3 inches at top; but their back edges must be parallel with the front of the pots A. The breadth of the rails E, H, I, will be determined by the breadth of the sides: all the rails must be fixed at 2 feet distance from each other, and at right angles with the pots. Having placed the rails thus, bore in the bottom rail 10 holes, at equal distances, large enough to receive the stick of a one-pound rocket: in the back edge of this rail cut a groove from one end to the other, fit to contain a quick-match; then cut a groove in the top of the rail, from the edge of each hole, into the groove in the back: in the same manner cut in the second rail, E, 8 holes and grooves; in the third rail, H, 6 holes and grooves; in the fourth rail, I, 4 holes and grooves; and in the top rail, 2 holes and grooves. B, a rail with holes in it to guide the ends of the rocket-sticks: this rail must be fixed 6 feet from the rail D. The fountain frame being thus made, prepare your rockets thus: Tie round the mouth of each a piece of thin paper, large enough to go twice round, and to project about 1/4 inch from the mouth of the rocket, which must be rubbed with wet meal-powder; in the mouth of each rocket put a leader, which secure well with the paper that projects from the mouth of the case: these leaders must be carried into the grooves in the back of the rails, in which lay a quick-match from one end to the other, and cover it with patted paper; holes must be made in the rail D, to receive the ends of the sticks of the rockets, in the rail E, and so on to the fourth rail; so that the sticks of the rockets at top will go through all the rails. The rockets being prepared, fix a gerbe, or white flower-pot, on each rail, before the pots, with their mouths inclining a little forwards: these gerbes must be lighted all at once. Behind or before each gerbe, fix a case of brilliant or slow fire: these cases must be filled so that they may burn out one after the other, to regulate the fountain; which may be done by carrying a leader from the end of each slow or brilliant fire, into the groove in the back of each rail. Different fixed rockets may be used in these fountains: but it will be best to fill the heads of the rockets on each rail with different sorts of things, in this manner; those at top with crackers, the next with rains, the third with serpents, the fourth with tailed stars, and the last flight with common or brilliant stars.

118. Palm Tree.

This piece, tho' made of common fires, and of a simple construction, has a very pleasing effect; owing to the fires intersecting so often, that they resemble the branches of trees. Let A (fig. 6.) be a perpendicular post, of any thickness, so that it is sufficiently strong to hold the cases; let the distance from B to C be 2 feet 6 inches, and C to D 2 feet 6 inches, and let the length of each cross piece be 2 feet; on each end of each fix a five-pointed star; then fix, on pegs made on purpose, 12-inch half-pound cases of brilliant fire, as in the figure. All the cases and stars must be fired at once. This piece should be fixed high from the ground.

119. Illuminated Pyramid, with Archimedian Screw, a Globe and Vertical Sun.

May be of any size. One made according to the dimensions of fig. 7, will be a good proportion, whose height is 21 feet; from C to D, 6 feet; from E to F, 9 feet: the space between the rails must be 6 inches, and the rails as thin as possible: in all the rails stick port-fires at 4 inches distance. The Archimedian screws, G, K, are nothing more than double spiral wheels, with the cases placed on their wheels horizontally instead of obliquely. The vertical sun, I, need not consist of more than 12 rays, to form a single glory. The globe at top must be made in proportion to the pyramid; which being prepared according to the preceding directions, place your leaders so that all the illuminating port-fires, screws, globe, and sun, may take fire together. The pyramid must be supported by the two sides, and by a support brought from a pole, which must be placed two feet from the back of the pyramid, that the wheels may run free.

120. Rose-piece and Sun.

A rose-piece may be used for a mutation of a regulated piece, or fired by itself: it makes the best appearance when made large; if its exterior diameter be 6 feet, it will be a good size. Fig. 8 shows the manner it appears in before it is fired. Let the exterior fell be made of wood, and supported by 4 wooden spokes: all the other parts, on which the illuminations are fixed, must be made of strong iron wire: on the exterior fell place as many half-pound cases of brilliant charge as you think proper, but the more the better; for the nearer the cases are placed, the stronger will be the Sect. V.

Different Pieces of Fireworks.

The rays of the sun: the illuminations should be placed within 3 inches of each other; they must all be fired together, and burn some time before the sun is lighted; which may be done by carrying a leader from the middle of one of the illuminations, to the mouth of one of the fun cases.

121. Transparent Stars with illuminated rays.

Plate CCLI. fig. 9. represents an illuminated star. Let the diameter from A to B be 2 feet, and from C to D 7 feet. First make a strong circular back or body of the star, 2 feet diameter, to which you fix the illuminated rays; in the centre of the front of the body fix a spindle, on which put a double triangular wheel, 6 inches diameter, clothed with 2-ounce cases of brilliant charge; the cases on this wheel must burn but one at a time. Round the edge of the body nail a hoop made of thin wood or tin; this hoop must project in front 6 or 7 inches; in this hoop cut 3 or 4 holes to let out the smoke from the wheel. The star and garter may be cut out of strong pasteboard or tin, made in this manner: Cut a round piece of pasteboard, or tin, 2 feet diameter, on which draw a star, and cut it out; then over the vacancy paste Persian silk; paint the letters yellow; 4 of the rays yellow, and 4 red; the crofs in the middle may be painted half red and half yellow, or yellow and blue. This transparent star must be fastened to the wooden hoop by a screw, to take off and on; the illuminated rays are made of thin wood, with tin sockets fixed on their sides within 4 inches of each other; in these sockets stick illuminating port-fires; behind the point of each ray fix a half-pound case of grey, black, or Chinese fire.

N. B. The illuminated rays to be lighted at the same time as the triangular wheel, or after it is burnt out; which may be done by a tin barrel being fixed to the wheel, after the manner of those in the regulated pieces. Into this barrel carry a leader from the illuminated rays, thro' the back of the star; which leader must be met by another, brought from the tail of the last-case on the wheel.

122. Transparent Table Star illuminated.

Fig. 1. represents a table star, whose diameter, from E to F, is 12 feet; and from E to I, 4 feet. This proportion, observed on each side, will make the centre frame 4 feet square: in this square fix a transparent star, as in the figure. This star may be painted blue, and its rays made as those of the flaming stars described before. The wheel for this star may be composed of different coloured fires, with a charge or two of slow fire: the wheels a, a, a, a, may be clothed with any number of cases, so that the star-wheel consist of the same: the illuminating port-fires, which must be placed very near each other on the frames, must be so managed as to burn as long as the wheels, and lighted at the same time.

123. The regulated illuminated Spiral Piece, with a projected Star-wheel illuminated.

This piece is represented by fig. 2, and is thus made. Have a block made 8 inches diameter; in this block screw 6 iron spokes, which must serve for spindles for the spiral wheels: these wheels are made as usual, each 1/2 foot diameter, and 3 feet in height: the spindles must be long enough to keep the wheels 4 or 5 inches from one another: at the end of each spindle must be a screw-nut, on which the wheels that hang downwards will run; and on the spindles which stand upwards must be a shoulder, for the blocks of the wheels to run on.

The projected star-wheel must turn on the same spindle on which the large block is fixed: this spindle must be long enough to allow the star-wheel to project a little before the spiral wheels: the exterior diameter of the star-wheel must be 3 feet 5. On this wheel fix 3 circles of iron wire, and on them port-fires; on the block place a transparent star, or a large 5-pointed brilliant star. The cases on this wheel may burn 4 at once, as it will contain near twice the number of one of the spiral wheels: the cases on the spiral wheels must be placed parallel to their fells, and burn two at a time.

125. A Figure-piece illuminated with five-pointed Stars.

The construction of this piece is very easy, as shown by fig. 3, whose diameter from B to C is 8 feet, and from D to F 2 feet: the vertical wheel in the centre must be 1 foot diameter, and consist of 6 four-ounce cases of different-coloured charge, which cases must burn double: on the frames fix 5-pointed brilliant or blue stars, rammed 4 inches with composition: let the space between each star be 8 inches; at each point fix a gerbe, or case of Chinese fire. When to be fired, let the gerbe, stars, and wheel, be lighted at the same time.

125. The Star-wheel illuminated.

This beautiful piece is shown by fig. 4. Its exterior fell is made of wood, 3 feet 6, or 4 feet diameter; within this fell, form with iron wire 3 circles, one less than the other, so that the diameter of the least may be about 10 inches: place the port-fires on these fells with their mouths inclining outwards, and the port-fires on the points of the star with their mouths projecting in front: let the exterior fell be clothed with 4-ounce cases of grey charge: these cases must burn 4 at a time, and be lighted at the same time as the illuminations.

126. Pyramid of Flower-pets.

Fig. 5. represents this curious piece, which must be made thus. Let the distance from A to B be 6 feet; and from one rail to the other, 2: on the bottom rail fix 5 paper mortars, each 3 1/2 inches diameter; these mortars load with serpents, crackers, stars, &c.

In the centre of each mortar fix a case of spur-fire: on the second rail fix 4 mortars, so as to stand exactly in the middle of the intervals of them on the bottom rail; on the third rail place 3 mortars; on the fourth, 2; and on the top of the polls, 1: the bottom rail must be 6 feet long: all the mortars must incline a little forwards, that they may easily discharge; and the spur-fires rammed exactly alike, that the mortars may all be fired at the same time. Having prepared your pyramid according to the preceding directions, carry pipes of communication from one spur-fire to the other.

127. The illuminated Regulating Piece.

Fig. 6. represents one half of this piece. A, A, A, A, are flat wooden spokes, each 5 feet long: at the end of each place a vertical wheel, 10 inches diameter, clothed with 6 four-ounce cases of brilliant fire: these cases must burn but 1 at a time: on two of the spokes of each wheel place 2 port fires, which must be lighted. Aquatic Fireworks.

The diameter of the wheel B must be 2 feet; and its fell made of wood, which must be fixed to the large spokes: on this wheel place 24 cases of the same sort with those on the small wheels; these cases must burn at a time: in this wheel make 3 circles with iron wire, and on them place illuminating port-fires, as in the figure: the star-points on the large spokes may be made of thin ash-hoops; the diameter of these points close to the centre-wheel must be 11 inches: on these points place port-fires, at 3½ inches distance one from the other.

Fig. 7 represents the blocks of this piece. The diameters of these blocks, at A and B, must be 8 inches; and C and D, 4½ inches: the length of each of these blocks must be 6 inches: at the small ends of these blocks fix an iron wheel 5 inches diameter, which wheels must have teeth, to turn the wheel E: this wheel is fixed on a small spindle screwed into the large spindle, which goes thro' the two blocks, and on which they run.

Supposing fig. 8. to be on the block A, in fig. 7, and to turn to the right, and another piece of the same construction on the block B, with its fires placed so as to turn it to the left; you will find them move very true and fast, by the help of the 3 iron wheels, which serve to regulate their motions, as well as to assist them in turning: let the iron circles in the front of the great wheels be of different diameters, so that when fired there may appear 6 circles. When this piece is fired, all the wheels and illuminations must be lighted at one time.

Sect. VI. Aquatic Fireworks.

Works that sport in the water are much esteemed by most admirers of fire-works, particularly water rockets; and as they seem of a very extraordinary nature to those who are unacquainted with this art, they merit a particular explanation.

128. Water Rockets.

May be made from 4 oz. to 2 lbs. If larger, they are too heavy; so that it will be difficult to make them keep above water without a cork float, which must be tied to the neck of the case; but the rockets will not dive so well with, as without floats.

Cases for these are made in the same manner and proportion as sky-rockets, only a little thicker of paper. When you fill those which are drove fold, put in first 1 ladle-full of slow fire, then 2 of the proper charge, and on that 1 or 2 ladies of finking charge, then the proper charge, then the finking charge again, and so on, till you have filled the case within 3 diameters; then drive on the composition 1 ladle-full of clay; through which make a small hole to the charge; then fill the case, within ½ a diameter, with corn-powder, on which turn down 2 or 3 rounds of the case in the inside; then pinch and tie the end very tight; having filled your rockets, (according to the above directions), dip their ends in melted rosin or sealing wax, or else secure them well with grease. When you fire these rockets, throw in 6 or 8 at a time; but, if you would have them all sink, or swim, at the same time, you must drive them with an equal quantity of composition, and fire them all together.

129. To make Pipes of Communication, which may be used under Water.

Pipes for this purpose must be a little thicker of paper than those for land. Having rolled a sufficient number of pipes, and kept them till dry, wash them over with drying oil, and let them dry; but when you oil them, leave about ¼ inch at each end dry, for joints; if they were oiled all over, when you come to join them, the paste would not stick where the paper is greasy: after the leaders are joined, and the paste dry, oil the joints. These pipes will lie many hours under water, without receiving any damage.

130. Horizontal Wheels for the Water.

First get a large wooden bowl without a handle; than have an octagon wheel made of a flat board 18 inches diameter, so that the length of each side will be near 7 inches: in all the sides cut a groove for the cases to lie in. This wheel being made, nail it on the top of the bowl; than take 8-4 oz. cases, filled with a proper charge, each about 6 inches in length. Now, to clothe the wheel with these cases, get some whitish-brown paper, and cut it into slips 4 or 5 inches broad, and 7 or 8 long: these slips being pasted all over on one side, take one of the cases, and roll one of the slips of paper about ¼ inch on its end, so that there will remain about 2½ inches of the paper hollow from the end of the case: this case tie on one of the sides of the wheel, near the corners of which must be holes bored, through which you put the packthread, to tie the cases: having tied on the first case at the neck and end, put a little meal powder in the hollow paper; then paste a slip of paper on the end of another case, the head of which put into the hollow paper on the first, allowing a sufficient distance from the tail of one to the head of the other for the pasted paper to bend without tearing: the second case tie on as you did the first: and so on with the rest, except the last, which must be closed at the end, unless it is to communicate to anything on the top of the wheel, such as fire-pumps or brilliant fires, fixed in holes cut in the wheel, and fired by the last or second case, as the fancy directs: 6, 8, or any number, may be placed on the top of the wheel, provided they be not too heavy for the bowl.

Before you tie on the cases, cut the upper part of all their ends, except the last, a little shelving, that the fire from one may play over the other, without being obstructed by the case. Wheel-cases have no clay drove in their ends, nor pinched, but are always left open, only the last, or those which are not to lead fire, which must be well secured.

131. Water Mines.

For these mines you must have a bowl with a wheel on it, made in the same manner as the water-wheel; only in its middle there must be a hole, of the same diameter you design to have the mine. These mines are tin pots, with strong bottoms, and a little more than 2 diameters in length: your mine must be fixed Aquatic in the hole in the wheel, with its bottom resting on Fireworks, the bowl; then loaded with serpents, crackers, stars, small water-rockets, &c., in the same manner as pots of aigrettes; but in their centre fix a case of Chinese fire, or a small gerbe, which must be lighted at the beginning of the last case on the wheel. These wheels are to be clothed as usual.

132. Fire-Globes for the Water.

Bows for water-globes must be very large, and the wheels on them of a decagon form: on each side of which nail a piece of wood 4 inches long; and on the outside of each piece cut a groove, wide enough to receive about \( \frac{1}{2} \) of the thickness of a 4-oz. case: these pieces of wood must be nailed in the middle of each face of the wheel, and fixed in an oblique direction, so that the fire from the cases may incline upwards: the wheel being thus prepared, tie in each groove a 4-oz. case, filled with a grey charge; that carry a leader from the tail of one case to the mouth of the other.

Globes for these wheels are made of 2 tin hoops, with their edges outwards, fixed one within the other, at right angles. The diameter of these hoops must be somewhat less than that of the wheel. Having made a globe, drive in the centre of a wheel an iron spindle, which must stand perpendicular, and its length 4 or 6 inches more than the diameter of the globe.

This spindle serves for an axis, on which the globe is fixed, which, when done, must stand 4 or 6 inches from the wheel: round one side of each hoop must be soldered little bits of tin, \( \frac{1}{2} \) inches distance from each other; which pieces must be 2 inches in length each, and only fastened at one end, the other ends being left loose, to turn round, the small port-fires, and hold them on: these port-fires must be made of such a length, as will last out the cases on the wheel. You are to observe, that there need not be any port-fires at the bottom of the globe within 4 inches of the spindle; for, if there were, they would have no effect, but only burn the wheel: all the port-fires must be placed perpendicular from the centre of the globe, with their mouths outwards; and must all be clothed with leaders, so as all to take fire with the second case of the wheel; which cases must burn two at a time, one opposite the other. When two cases of a wheel begin together, two will end together; therefore the two opposite end cases must have their ends pinched and secured from fire. The method of firing such wheels is, by carrying a leader from the mouth of one of the first cases to that of the other; which leader being burnt through the middle, will give fire to both at the same time.

133. Odoriferous Water Balloons.

These balloons are made in the same manner as air-balloon, but very thin of paper, and in diameter \( \frac{1}{2} \) inch, with a vent of \( \frac{1}{2} \) inch diameter. The shells being made, and quite dry, fill them with any of the following compositions, which must be rammed in tight: these balloons must be fired at the vent, and put into a bowl of water. Odoriferous works are generally fired in rooms.

Composition I. Saltpetre 2 oz. flour of sulphur 1 oz. camphor \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. yellow amber \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. charcoal-dust \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. flour of benjamin or affa odorata \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. all powdered very fine and well mixed.

II. Saltpetre 12 oz. meal-powder 3 oz. frankincense 1 oz. myrrh \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. camphor \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. charcoal 3 oz. all moistened with the oil of spike.

III. Saltpetre 2 oz. sulphur \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. antimony \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. amber \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. cedar raspings \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. all mixed with the oil of roses and a few drops of bergamot.

IV. Saltpetre 4 oz. sulphur 1 oz. saw-dust of juniper \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. saw-dust of cypress 1 oz. camphor \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. myrrh 2 drams, dried rosemary \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. cortex elaterii \( \frac{1}{2} \) oz. all moistened a little with the oil of roses.

N.B. Water rockets may be made with any of the above compositions, with a little alteration, to make them weaker or stronger, according to the size of the cases.

134. Water Balloons.

Having made some thin paper-shells, of what diameter you please, fill some with the composition for water balloons, and some after this manner: Having made the vent of the shells pretty large, fill them almost full with water rockets, marrows, squibs, &c. Then put in some blowing powder, sufficient to burst the shells; and afterwards fix in the vent a water-rocket, long enough to reach the bottom of the shell, and its neck to project a little out of the vent; this rocket must be open at the end, to fire the powder in the shell, which will burst the shell, and disperse the small rockets, &c., in the water. When you have well secured the large rocket in the vent of the shell, take a cork float with a hole in its middle, which fit over the head of the rocket, and fasten it to the shell: this float must be large enough to keep the balloon above water.

135. Water Squibs.

Are generally made of 1-oz. serpent cases 7 or 8 inches long, filled two thirds with charge, and the remainder bounced. The common method of firing them is this: Take a water-wheel, with a tin mortar in its centre, which load with squibs after the usual method; but the powder in the mortar must be no more than will just throw the squibs out (easily into the water): you may place the cases on the wheel either obliquely or horizontally; and on the top of the wheel, round the mortar, fix six cases of brilliant fire, perpendicular to the wheel: these cases must be fired at the beginning of the last case of the wheel, and the mortar at the conclusion of the same.

136. A Sea Fight with Small Ships, and to prepare a Fire-ship for it.

Having procured four or five small ships, of two or three feet in length, (or as many as you design to fight), make a number of small reports, which are to serve for guns. Of these range as many as you please on each side of the upper decks; then at the head and stern of each ship fix a 2-oz. case, 8 inches long, filled with a slow port-fire receipt; but take care to place it in such a manner that the fire may fall in the water, and not burn the rigging: in these cases bore holes at unequal distances from one another, but make as many in each case as half the number of reports, so that one case may fire the guns on one side, and the other those on the opposite. The method of firing the guns is, by carrying a leader from the holes in the cases to the reports on the decks; you must make these leaders very small, and be careful in calculating the burning of the slow-fire in regulating cases, that more than two guns be not fired at a time. When you would have a broadside given, let a leader be carried to a cracker, placed on the outside of the ship; which cracker must be tied loose, or the reports will be too slow: in all the ships put artificial guns at the port-holes.

Having filled and bored holes in two port-fires for regulating the guns in one ship, make all the rest exactly the same; then, when you begin the engagement, light one ship first, and set it a sailing, and so on with the rest, sending them out singly, which will make them fire regularly, at different times, without confusion; for the time between the firing of each gun will be equal to that of lighting the slow fires.

The fire-ship may be of any size; and need not be very good, for it is always lost in the action. To prepare a ship for this purpose, make a port-fire equal in size with those in the other ships, and place it at the stern; in every port place a large port-fire, filled with a very strong composition, and painted in imitation of a gun, and let them all be fired at once by a leader from the slow fire, within two or three diameters of its bottom; all along both sides, on the top of the upper deck, lay star-composition about half an inch thick and one broad, which must be wetted with thin size, then primed with meal-powder, and secured from fire by putting paper over it; in the place where you lay this composition, drive some little tacks with flat heads, to hold it fast to the deck; this must be fired just after the sham guns, and when burning will show a flame all round the ship; at the head take up the decks, and put a six-inch mortar loaded with crackers, which mortar must be fired by a pipe from the end of the slow fire; the firing of this mortar will sink the ship, and make a pretty conclusion. The regulating port-fire of this ship must be lighted at the same time with the first fighting ship.

Having prepared all the ships for fighting, we shall next proceed with the management of them when on the water. At one end of the pond, just under the surface of the water, fix two running blocks, at what distance you choose the ships should fight; and at the other end of the pond, opposite to each of these blocks, under the water, fix a double block; then on the land, by each of the double blocks, place two small windlasses; round one of them turn one end of a small cord, and the other end put through one of the blocks; then carry it through the single one at the opposite end of the pond, and bring it back through the double block again, and round the other windlass: to this cord, near the double block, tie as many small rings as half the number of the ships, at what distance you think proper; but these rings must not be more than two feet each: make fast the loose end of each to a ship, just under her bow-sprit; but if tied to the keel, or too near the water, it will overturn the ship. Half the ships being thus prepared, near the other double block fix two more windlasses, to which fasten a cord, and to it tie the other half of the ships as before: when you fire the ships, pull in the cord with one of the windlasses, to get all the ships together; and when you have set fire to the first, turn that windlass which draws them out, and so on with the rest, till they are all out in the middle of the pond; then by turning the other windlass, you will draw them back again; by which method you may make them change sides, and tack about backwards and forwards at pleasure. For the fire-ship, fix the blocks and windlasses between the others, so that when she sails out, she will be between the other ships; you must not let this ship advance till the guns at her ports take fire.

137. To fire Sky-rockets under water.

You must have stands made as usual, only the rails must be placed flat instead of edgeways, and have holes in them for the rocket sticks to go through; for if they were hung upon hooks, the motion of the water would throw them off: the stands being made, if the pond is deep enough, sink them at the sides, so deep, that, when the rockets are in, their heads may just appear above the surface of the water; to the mouth of each rocket fix a leader, which put through the hole with the stick; then a little above the water must be a board, supported by the stand, and placed along one side of the rockets; then the ends of the leaders are turned up through holes made in this board, exactly opposite the rockets. By this means you may fire them singly or all at once. Rockets may be fired by this method in the middle of a pond, by a Neptune, a swan, a water-wheel, or any thing else you choose.

138. To represent Neptune in his Chariot.

To do this to perfection, you must have a Neptune made (made of wood, or basket work) as big as life, fixed on a float large enough to bear his weight; on which must be two horse's heads and necks, so as to seem swimming, as shown by fig. 11. For the wheels of the chariot, there must be two vertical wheels of brilliant fire, and on Neptune's head a horizontal wheel of brilliant fire, with all its cales, to play upwards. When this wheel is made, cover it with paper or paffboard, cut and painted like Neptune's coronet; then let the trident be made without prongs, but instead of them, fix three cales of a weak grey charge, and on each horse's head put an 8-oz. cale of brilliant fire, and on the mouth of each fix a short cale, of the same diameter, filled with the white-flame receipt, enough to last out all the cales on the wheels: these short cales must be open at bottom, that they may light the brilliant fires; for the horse's eyes, put small port-fires, and in each nostril put a small cale filled half with grey charge, and the rest with port-fire composition.

If Neptune is to give fire to any building on the water; at his first setting out, the wheels of the chariot, and that on his head, with the white flames on the horse's heads, and the port-fires in their eyes and nostrils, must all be lighted at once; then from the bottom of the white flames carry a leader to the trident. As Neptune is to advance by the help of a block and cord, you must manage it so as not to let him turn about, till the brilliant fires on the horses and the trident begin; for it is by the fire from the horses, (which plays almost upright) that the building, or work, is lighted; which must be thus prepared. From the mouth of cale which is to be first fired, hang some loose quick-match to receive the fire from the horses. When Neptune is only to be shown by himself, without setting fire to any other works; let the white flames on the horse be very short, and not to last longer than one cale of each wheel, and let two cales of each wheel burn at a time.

139. Swans and Ducks in water.

If you would have the swans or ducks discharge rockets into the water, they must be made hollow, and

Aquatic of papers, and filled with small water rockets, with some blowing powder to throw them out; but if this is not done, they may be made of wood, which will last many times. Having made and painted some swans, fix them on floats; then in the places where their eyes should be, bore holes two inches deep, inclining downwards, and wide enough to receive a small port-fire; the port-fire cases for this purpose must be made of brass, two inches long, and filled with a slow bright charge. In the middle of one of these cases make a little hole; then put the port-fire in the eye-hole of the swan, leaving about half an inch to project out; and in the other eye put another port-fire, with a hole made in it; then in the neck of the swan, within two inches of one of the eyes, bore a hole flatwise, to meet that in the port-fire; in this hole put a leader, and carry it to a water-rocket, that must be fixed under the tail with its mouth upwards. On the top of the head place two 1-oz. cases, 4 inches long each, drove with brilliant fire; one of these cases must incline forwards, and the other backwards; these must be lighted at the same time as the water-rocket; to do which, bore a hole between them in the top of the swan's head, down to the hole in the port-fire, to which carry a leader; if the swan is filled with rockets, they must be fired by a pipe from the end of the water-rocket under the tail. When you set the swan a swimming, light the two eyes.

140. Water Fire-fountains.

To make a fire-fountain, you must first have a float made of wood, three feet diameter; then in the middle fix a round perpendicular post, four feet high, and two inches diameter; round this post fix three circular wheels made of thin wood, without any spokes. The largest of these wheels must be placed within two or three inches of the float, and must be nearly of the same diameter. The second wheel must be 2 feet 2 inches diameter, and fixed at two feet distance from the first. The third wheel must be 1 foot 4 inches diameter, and fixed within six inches of the top of the post; the wheels being fixed, take 18 four or eight oz. cases of brilliant fire, and place them round the first wheel with their mouths outwards, and inclining downwards; on the second wheel place 13 cases of the same, and in the same manner as those on the first; on the third, place 8 more of these cases, in the same manner as before, and on the top of the post fix a garbe; then clothe all the cases with leaders, so that both they and the garbe may take fire at the same time. Before you fire this work, try it in the water to see if the float is properly made, so as to keep the fountain upright.

PYR

PYROTICS, in medicine, caustics, or remedies either actually or potentially hot; and which accordingly will burn the flesh, and raise an eschar. See Caustics.