the most northerly of all the Spanish dominions on the continent of America, is sometimes distinguished by the name of New Albion, and the Islas Carabiras; but the most ancient appellation is California; a word probably owing to some accident, or to some words spoken by the Indians and misinterpreted by the Spaniards. For a long time California was thought to be an island; but Father Caimo, a German Jesuit, discovered it to be a peninsula joining to the coast of New Mexico and the southern parts of America. This peninsula extends from Cape St Sebastien, lying in north latitude 43. 30. to Cape St Lucar which lies in north latitude 22. 32. It is divided from New Mexico by the gulph, or as some call it the lake, of California, or Vermilion Sea, on the east; on the north, by that part of the continent of North America which is least known; and on the west and south, by the Pacific Ocean or great South Sea. The coasts, especially towards the Vermilion Sea, are covered with inhabited islands, on some of which the Jesuits have established settlements, such as St Clement, Paxaros, St Anne, Cedars (so called from the great number of these trees it produces), St Joseph, and a multitude of others. But the islands best known are three lying off Cape St Lucar, towards the Mexican coast. There are called Les Tres Marias, "the three Maries." They are but small, have good wood and water, salt pits, and abundance of game; therefore the English and French pirates have sometimes wintered there, when bound on cruises in the South Seas.

As California lies altogether within the temperate zone, the natives are neither chilled with cold nor scorched with heat; and indeed the improvements in agriculture, made by the Jesuits, afford strong proofs of the excellency of the climate. In some places the air is extremely hot and dry; and the earth wild, rugged, and barren. In a country stretching about 800 miles in length, there must be considerable variations of soil and climate; and indeed we find, from good authority, that California produces some of the most beautiful lawns, as well as many of the most inhospitable deserts, in the universe. Upon the whole, although California is rather rough and craggy, we are assured by the Jesuit Vinegas, and other good writers, that with due culture it furnishes every necessary and convenience of life; and that, even where the atmosphere is hottest, vapours rising from the sea, and dispersed by pleasant breezes, render it of a moderate temperature.

The peninsula of California is now stocked with all sorts of domestic animals known in Spain and Mexico. Horses, mules, asses, oxen, sheep, hogs, goats, and all other quadrupeds imported, thrive and increase in this country. Among the native animals is a species of deer of the size of a young heifer, and greatly resembling it in shape; the head is like that of a deer, and the horns thick and crooked like those of a ram. The hoof of the animal is large, round, and cloven, the skin spotted, but the hair thinner and the tail sharper than those of a deer. Its flesh is greatly esteemed. There is another animal peculiar to this country, larger and more bulky than a sheep, but greatly resembling it in figure, and, like it, covered with a fine black or white wool. The flesh of this animal is nourishing and delicious; and, happily for the natives, it is so abundant, that nothing more is required than the trouble of hunting, as these animals wander about in droves in the forests and on the mountains. Father Torquemado describes a creature which he calls a species of large bear, something like a buffalo, of the size of a steer, and nearly of the figure of a stag. Its hair is a quarter of a yard in length, its neck long and awkward, and on its forehead are horns branched like those of a stag. The tail is a yard in length and half a yard in breadth; and the hoofs cloven like those of an ox. With regard to birds, we have but an imperfect account; only, in general, Father Venegas tells us that the coast is plentifully stored with peacocks, bustards, geese, cranes, and most of the birds common in other parts of the world. The quantity of fish which resort to these California coasts are incredible. Salmon, turbot, barbel, skate, mackerel, &c., are caught here with very little trouble; together with pearl oysters, common oysters, lobsters, and a variety of exquisite shell-fish. Plenty of turtle are also caught on the coasts. On the South Sea coasts are found shell-fish peculiar to it, and perhaps the most beautiful in the world; their lustre surpassing that of the finest pearl, and darting their rays through a transparent varnish of an elegant vivid blue, like the lapis lazuli. The fame of California for pearls soon drew forth great numbers of adventurers, who searched every part of the gulf, and are still employed in that work, notwithstanding fashion has greatly diminished the value of this elegant natural production. Father Torquimado observes that the sea of California affords very rich pearl fisheries; and that the beds, or beds of oysters, may be seen in three or four fathom water, almost as plain as if they were on the surface.

The extremity of the peninsula towards Cape St Lucar is more level, temperate, and fertile, than the other parts, and consequently more woody. In the more distant parts, even to the farthest millions on the east coast, no large timber hath yet been discovered. A species of manna is found in this country, which, according to the accounts of the Jesuits, has all the sweetness of refined sugar without its whiteness. The natives firmly believe that this juice drops from heaven.

The Californians are well made, and very strong. They are extremely pugnacious, inconstant, stupid, and even insensible, and seem extremely deserving of the character given to the Indians in general, under the article America. Before the Europeans penetrated into California, the natives had no form of religion. The missionaries indeed tell us many tales concerning them, but they so evidently bear the marks of forgery as not to be worth repeating. Each nation was then an assemblage of several cottages more or less numerous, that were all mutually confederated by alliances, but without any chief. They were strangers even to filial obedience. No kind of dress was used by the men; but the women made use of some coverings, and were even fond of ornamenting themselves with pearls and such other trinkets as the country afforded. What mostly displayed their ingenuity was the construction of their fishing nets, which are said by the Jesuits to have even exceeded in goodness those made in Europe. They were made by the women, of a coarse kind of flax procured from some plants which grow there. Their hovels were built of branches and leaves of trees; nay, many of them were only inclosures of earth and stone, raised half a yard high, without any covering; and even these were so small, that they could not stretch themselves at length in them. In winter, they dwelt under ground in caves either natural or artificial.

In 1526, Ferdinand Cortez having reduced and settled Mexico, attempted the conquest of California; but was obliged to return, without even taking a survey of the country, a report of his death having disposed the Mexicans to a general insurrection. Some other attempts were made by the officers of Cortez, but these were also unsuccessful; and this valuable coast was long neglected by the Spaniards, who, to this day, have but one settlement upon it. In 1595, a galleon was sent to make discoveries on the Californian shore; but the vessel was unfortunately lost. Seven years after, the count de Monteroy, then viceroy of New Spain, sent Sebastian Biscayno on the same design with two ships and a tender; but he made no discovery of importance. In 1684, the marquis de Laguna, also viceroy of new Spain, dispatched two ships with a tender to make discoveries on the lake of California. He returned with an indifferent account, but was among the first that asserted that California was not an island; which was afterwards confirmed by Father Cino, as already related. In 1697, the Spaniards being discouraged by their losses and disappointments, the Jesuits solicited and obtained permission to undertake the conquest of California. They arrived among the savages with curiosities that might amuse them, corn for their food, and clothes for which they could not but perceive the necessity. The hatred these people bore the Spanish name could not support itself against these demonstrations of benevolence. They testified their acknowledgments as much as their want of sensibility and their inconstancy would permit them. These faults were partly overcome by the religious instructors, who pursued their project with a degree of warmth and resolution peculiar to the society. They made themselves carpenters, masons, weavers, and husbandmen; and by these means succeeded in imparting knowledge, and in some measure a taste for the useful arts, to this savage people, who have been all successively formed into one body. In 1745, they composed 43 villages, separated from each other by the barrenness of the soil and the want of water. The inhabitants of these small villages subsist principally on corn and pulse, which they cultivate; and on the fruits and domestic animals of Europe, the breeding of which is an object of continual attention. The Indians have each their field, and the property of what they reap; but such is their want of foresight, that they would squander in a day what they had gathered, if the missionary did not take upon himself to distribute it to them as they stand in need of it. They manufacture some coarse stuffs; and the necessaries they are in want of are purchased with pearls, and with wine nearly resembling that of Madeira, which they sell to the Mexicans and to the galleons, and which experience hath shown the necessity of prohibiting in California. A few laws, which are very simple, are sufficient to regulate this rising state. In order to enforce them, the missionary chooses the most intelligent person of the village; who is empowered to whip and imprison; the only punishments of which they have any knowledge. In all California there are only two garrisons, each consisting of 30 men and a soldier with every missionary. These troops were chosen by the legislators, though they are paid by the government. Were the court of Madrid to push their interest with half the zeal of the Jesuits, California might become one of the most valuable of their acquisitions, on account of the pearls and other valuable articles of commerce which the country contains. At present the little Spanish town near Cape St Lucar is made use of for no other purpose than as a place of refreshment for the Manila ships, and the head residence of the missionaries.