a province of South America, bounded by Peru on the north, by the province of La Plata on the east, by Patagonia on the south, and by the Pacific ocean on the west, lying between 75 and 85 degrees of west longitude, and between 25 and 45 degrees of south latitude; though some comprehend in this province Patagonia and Terra del Fuego.

The first attempt of the Spaniards upon this country was made by Almagro in the year 1535, after he and Pizaro had completed the conquest of Peru. He set out on his expedition to Chili with a considerable body of Spaniards and auxiliary Indians. For 200 leagues he was well accommodated with every necessity by the Indians, who had been subjects of the emperors of Peru: but reaching the barren country of Charcas, his troops became discontented through the hardships they suffered; which determined Almagro to climb the mountains called Cordilleras, in order to get the sooner into Chili; being ignorant of the invaluable mines of Potosi, contained in the province of Charcas where he then was. At that time the Cordilleras were covered with snow, the depth of which obliged him to dig his way through it. The cold made such an impression on his naked Indians, that it is computed no less than 10,000 of them perished on these dreadful mountains, 150 of the Spaniards sharing the same fate; while many of the survivors lost their fingers and toes through the excess of cold. At last, after encountering incredible difficulties, Almagro reached a fine, temperate, and fertile plain on the opposite side of the Cordilleras, where he was received with the greatest kindness by the natives. These poor savages, taking the Spaniards for deputies of their god Virachoca, immediately collected for them an offering of gold and silver worth 200,000 ducats: and soon after brought a present to Almagro worth 300,000 more. These offerings only determined him to conquer the whole country as soon as possible. The Indians among whom he now was, had acknowledged the authority of the Peruvian incas, or emperors, and consequently gave Almagro no trouble. He therefore marched immediately against those who had never been conquered by the Peruvians, and inhabited the southern parts of Chili. These savages fought with great resolution, and disputed every inch of ground; but in five months' time the Spaniards had made such progress, that they must infallibly have reduced the whole province in a very little time, had not Almagro returned to Peru, in consequence of a commission sent him from Spain.

In 1540, Pizaro having overcome and put Almagro to death, sent into Chili, Baldivia or Valdivia, who had learned the rudiments of war in Italy, and was reckoned one of the best officers in the Spanish service. As he penetrated southwards, however, he met with much opposition; the confederated caziques frequently gave him battle, and displayed great courage. rage and resolution; but could not prevent him from penetrating to the valley of Maiocho, which he found incredibly fertile and populous. Here he founded the city of St Jago; and finding gold mines in the neighbourhood, forced the Indians to work in them; at the same time building a castle for the safety and protection of his new colony. The natives, exasperated at this slavery, immediately took up arms; attacked the fort; and, though defeated and repulsed, set fire to the outworks, which contained all the provisions of the Spaniards. Nor were they discouraged by this and many other defeats, but still continued to carry on the war with vigour. At last, Valdivia, having overcome them in many battles, forced the inhabitants of the vale to submit; upon which he immediately sent them to work in the mines of Quillota. This indignity offered to their countrymen redoubled the fury of those who remained at liberty. Their utmost efforts, however, were as yet unable to stop Valdivia's progress. Having crossed the large rivers Mauille and Hata, he traversed a vast tract of country and founded the city of La Conception on the South-sea-coast. He erected fortresses in several parts of the country, in order to keep the natives in awe; and built the city called Imperial, about 40 leagues to the southward of Conception. The Spanish writers say, that the neighbouring valley contained 80,000 inhabitants of a peaceable disposition; and who were even so tame as to suffer Valdivia to parcel out their lands among his followers, while they themselves remained in a state of inactivity.

About 16 leagues to the eastward of Imperial, the Spanish general laid the foundations of the city Villa Rica, so called on account of the rich gold mines he found there. But his ambition and avarice had now involved him in difficulties from which he could never be extricated: He had extended his conquests beyond what his strength was capable of maintaining. The Chileans were still as furious as ever of recovering their liberties. The horses, firearms, and armour of the Spaniards, indeed, appeared dreadful to them; but thoughts of endless slavery were still more so. In the course of the war they had discovered that the Spaniards were vulnerable and mortal men like themselves; they hoped, therefore, by dint of their superiority in numbers, to be able to expel the tyrannical usurpers. Had all the nations joined in this resolution, the Spaniards had certainly been exterminated; but some of them were of a pacific and fearful disposition, while others considered servitude as the greatest of all possible calamities. Of this last opinion were the Araucans, the most intrepid people in Chili, and who had given Valdivia the greatest trouble. They all rose to a man, and chose Capaulican, a renowned hero among them, for their leader. Valdivia, however, received notice of their revolt sooner than they intended he should, and returned with all expedition to the vale of Arauco; but before he arrived, 14,000 of the Chileans were there assembled under the conduct of Capaulican. He attacked them with his cavalry, and forced them to retreat into the woods; but could not obtain a complete victory, as they kept continually falling out and harassing his men. At last Capaulican, having observed that fighting with such a number of undisciplined troops only served to contribute to the defeat and confusion of the whole, divided his forces into bodies of 1000 each. These he directed to attack the enemy by turns; and, though he did not expect that a single thousand would put them to flight; he directed them to make as long a stand as they could; when they were to be relieved and supported by another body; and thus the Spaniards would be at last wearied out and overcome. The event finally answered his expectations. The Chileans maintained a fight for seven or eight hours, until the Spaniards, growing faint for want of refreshment, retired precipitately. Valdivia ordered them to possess a pass at some distance from the field, to stop the pursuit; but this design being discovered to the Chileans by the treachery of his page, who was a native of that country, the Spaniards were surrounded on all sides, and cut in pieces by the Indians. The general was taken and put to death: some say with the tortures usually inflicted by these savages on their prisoners; others, that he had melted gold poured down his throat; but all agree, that the Indians made flutes and other instruments of his bones, and preserved his skull as a monument of their victory, which they celebrated by an annual festival. After this victory the Chileans had another engagement with their enemies; in which also they proved victorious, defeating the Spaniards with the loss of near 3000 men; and upon this they bent their whole force against the colonies. The city of Conception, being abandoned by the Spaniards, was taken and destroyed; but the Indians were forced to raise the siege of Imperial; and their progress was at last stopped by Garcia de Mendoza, who defeated Capaulican, took him prisoner, and put him to death. No defeats, however, could dispirit the Chileans. They continued the war for 50 years; and to this day they remain unconquered, and give the Spaniards more trouble than any other American nation. Their most irreconcilable enemies are the inhabitants of Aracoca and Tucapel, those to the south of the river Bobio, whose country extends towards the Cordilleras.—The manners of these people greatly resemble those of North America, which we have already described under the article America; but seem to have a more warlike disposition. It is a constant rule with the Chileans never to sue for peace. The Spaniards are obliged not only to make the first overtures, but to purchase it by presents. They have at last been obliged to abandon all thoughts of extending their conquests, and reduced to cover their frontiers by erecting forts at proper distances.

The Spanish colonies in Chili are dispersed on the borders of the South-sea. They are parted from Peru by a desert 80 leagues in breadth; and bounded by the island of Chiloé, at the extremity next the Straits of Magellan. There are no settlements on the coast except those of Valdivia, Concepcion island, Valparaiso, and Coquimbo or La Serena, which are all seaports. In the inland country is St Jago, the capital of the colony. There is no culture nor habitation at any distance from these towns. The buildings in the whole province are low, made of unburnt brick, and mostly thatched. This practice is observed on account of the frequent earthquakes; and is properly adapted to the nature of the climate, as well as the indolence of the inhabitants.

The climate of Chili is one of the most wholesome in the whole world. The vicinity of the Cordilleras gives it such a delightful temperature as could not otherwise be expected in that latitude. Though gold mines are found in it, their richness has been too much extolled; their produce never exceeds L. 218,750. The soil is prodigiously fertile. All the European fruits have improved in that happy climate. The wine would be excellent if nature were properly assisted by art: and the corn-harvest is reckoned a bad one when it does not yield a hundred fold. With all these advantages, Chili has no direct intercourse with the mother-country. Their trade is confined to Peru, Paraguay, and the savages on their frontiers. With these last they exchange their less valuable commodities, for oxen, horses, and their own children, whom they are ready to part with for the most trifling things. This province supplies Peru with great plenty of hides, dried fruit, copper, salt-meat, horses, hemp, lard, wheat, and gold. In exchange, it receives tobacco, sugar, cocoa, earthen-ware, woollen cloth, linen, hats, made at Quito, and every article of luxury brought from Europe. The ships sent from Callao on this traffic were formerly bound to Conception Bay, but now come to Valparaíso. The commerce between this province and Paraguay is carried on by land, though it is a journey of 300 leagues, 40 of which lie through the snows and precipices of Cordilleras; but if it was carried on by sea, they must either pass the straits of Magellan or double Cape Horn, which the Spaniards always avoid as much as possible. To Paraguay are sent some woollen stuffs called ponchos, which are used for cloaks; also wines, brandy, oil, and chiefly gold. In return they receive wax, a kind of tallow fit to make soap, European goods, and negroes.

Chili is governed by a chief, who is absolute in all civil, political, and military affairs, and is also independent of the viceroy. The latter has no authority except when a governor dies; in which case he may appoint one in his room for a time, till the mother-country names a successor. If, on some occasions, the viceroy has interfered in the government of Chili, it was when he has been either authorized by a particular trust reposed in him by the court, or by the deference paid to the eminence of his office; or when he has been actuated by his own ambition to extend his authority. In the whole province of Chili there are not 20,000 white men, and not more than 60,000 negroes, or Indians, able to bear arms. The military establishment amounted formerly to 2000 men; but the maintaining of them being found too expensive, they were reduced to 500 at the beginning of this century.