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DUNDEE

Volume 6 · 4,178 words · 1797 Edition

a parliament town of Scotland, in the shire of Forfar or Angus, is seated on the north side of the river Tay, about 12 measured miles from its mouth, 40 measured miles north of Edinburgh, and 22 east from Perth, in W. Long. 2. 48. N. Lat. 56. 26. Its situation for commerce is very advantageous. Trading vessels of the largest burden can get into the harbour; and on the quay there are three very convenient and handsome warehouses built in 1756, as well as good room for shipbuilding, which is carried on to a large extent. The houses are built of stone, generally three and four stories high. The marketplace or high street in the middle of the town is a very spacious oblong square, 360 feet long and 100 feet broad; from whence branch out the four principal streets, which with a number of lesser ones are all paved in the best manner. On the south side of the marketplace stands the town-house; an elegant structure, with a very handsome front, piazzas below, and a neat spire over it 140 feet high. This building was finished in the year 1734, and contains the guild-hall, the court-room, a very neat masonic-lodge, the bank, vaulted repositories for the records, and the common prison, which is in the upper story, and does honour to the taste and humanity of the magistrates, under whose auspices it was constructed, being well aired commodious rooms, at the same time very strong and secure. Each prison is 20 feet by 12, and 7½ feet high, well arched above and below.

The meat-market and shambles, which were formerly on the high street, and esteemed a nuisance, were removed some years ago; and in the place of the shambles, there is now erected by the incorporated trades, on the east end of the above large square, a grand building, with a large and elegant cupola: in the ground-flat of which is a very neat coffee-room, and several merchant shops; and in the upper stories public rooms for each trade, and a common hall occasionally used as a theatre. This hall is 50 feet long, 30 feet broad, and 25 feet high; having its front to the square decorated with Ionic columns.

The opulence of the corporations, nine in number, may be inferred from this, that they had, along with the kirk-session, but very lately finished a most elegant church when they set about building the hall. This church, which is called St Andrew's Church, stands on a rising ground a little north from the Cowgate street; and has an elegant spire 130 feet high, with a peal of bells much admired. There is a neat entry to the church by a broad gravel walk, with grass plots on every side; and the whole policies around it are laid out with excellent taste, and in a superb style, as complete and well executed as any in Scotland.

Dundee, beside St Andrew's church, has four other churches, and five minsters on the legal establishment. The old church, in which were originally four places of worship, when entire, had been a very magnificent building, with a large square Gothic tower or steeple 186 feet high, on the west end of the church. This building was in the form of a cross, erected by David Earl of Huntington, brother to William I. of Scotland (furnished the Lion), and was dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This he did on his return from the third crusade (in which with 500 of his countrymen he had accompanied Richard I. of England) anno 1189, in gratitude for his deliverance from several imminent dangers, and particularly from shipwreck, by which he had nearly perished when in sight of this town. At the same time he changed the name of the town from Allctum to Dei Domum, whence its present name is thought by many to be derived; while others maintain that its name was Dunay, or "the Hill of Tay." The word Allctum in the Gaelic signifies "beautiful," and harmonizes very well with the scripture sense of the Hill of God. The word Dunay has the very same signification, "the Hill of God;" and both agree with the delightful situation of Dundee, and unite in giving it with propriety the name of Bonny Dundee. The hill rises on the north of the town to a great height, and is called The Law of Dundee; law being a Saxon word for a round hill such as it is. Dun

top there are evidently the remains of a camp, said to have been first erected by Edward I. of England, and lastly repaired by General Monk. Where the meal-market stood is now erected an elegant Episcopal meeting-house, with handsome shops below.

Dundee had an old castle which was demolished by the famous Scots governor Sir William Wallace, who was educated in this town. The castle had proved very useful to Edward I. when he put a garrison into it to awe the inhabitants; but Wallace getting possession, ordered it to be destroyed, lest it should again fall into the hands of the English. This treatment so exasperated Edward, that, taking the town by storm, he set fire to the churches; and a number of the inhabitants having taken sanctuary there with their most valuable effects, were all burnt along with them. At that time he burnt also a great part of the town. The desolation he brought on the church has continued ever since, till the year 1787, when a noble edifice began to be built on the site of the one that was burnt down, and is now finishing; in which the ancient Gothic of the outside is excellently united with internal modern architecture, making one of the largest and neatest churches in the kingdom, and again completing the superb superstructure as erected at the first by the Earl of Huntington.

This town suffered greatly last century during the troubles of Charles II. and the usurpation of Oliver Cromwell; being sometimes under the command of one party, and at others in the mercy of another. In 1645 the Marquis of Montrose took it by storm; and in 1651, under the command of its provost Major General Lumsden, it vigorously opposed General Monk, who carried it by storm the first of September, and put all in arms to the sword. And so great were the riches of Dundee, all the neighbouring gentlemen having retired to it with their best effects as a place of safety, that every private soldier in General Monk's army had near 60l. Sterling to his share of the plunder; there being above 60 merchant vessels in the harbour at that time, and the like number of vessels sailed for England loaded with the spoils of the unfortunate inhabitants. By these and other invasions, the whole ancient records of the town were destroyed, except a deed of Queen Mary, signed by herself, conferring the present burying ground; and some charters of the Charles's, confirming the ancient rights and privileges as dispensed by the Alexanders and others kings of Scotland. This burying-ground is the only place in Scotland we know of called The Hoff, a Dutch word bearing all the senses of the English word court, having been formerly the burying-ground of one of the many religious houses that were in this town previous to the Reformation.

Dundee at present has 113 vessels belonging to the port, of above 8200 tons burden, and near 1000 seamen. Of these vessels four went last season to Greenland, a trade of long standing here. And beside the three public warehouses on the shore, there are above twenty large private warehouses belonging to the merchants. The magistrates have been lately and still are at great expense in enlarging and fitting up the harbour, so as to render it of easy access, safe, and commodious; and have now made the passage over the Tay, where there is a great resort, so convenient, that travellers with their horses can get over at any time of tide, and Dundee, a sufficient number of good boats properly manned are always ready. The river Tay opposite Dundee is about three miles broad; and being sheltered by high lands on both sides, is a safe road for ships of the greatest burden: the piers are extensive, broad, and well adapted for the purposes of loading and discharging vessels; and when the harbour is completed in the plan they are presently engaged in, there will not be one superior to it in Scotland.

To enable the town to repair the damage done by Cromwell's army, and also their harbour and other public works, Charles II. granted them a small impost of one-sixth of a penny Sterling, for 25 years, on the pint of ale brewed or brought into the town for sale; which grant has been frequently renewed by subsequent parliaments; and the fund arising therefrom is most properly bestowed by the magistrates in improving the town, and making it more convenient and healthy. For these purposes, several new streets have been made, the old ones have been widened, and a large convenient one at a considerable expense carried down from the market-place to join a fine walk, shaded very neatly with trees, that leads to the shore. This new street makes the access easy and commodious, which was formerly much confined and steep.

Till the year 1745, the town had only draw-wells; but since that period it is most amply supplied from a large fine fountain of excellent water, conveyed through the town in lead pipes, and discharged by good wells at proper distances. These, with a fine well in the town's meadows, and a stream of water that runs thro' the ward and the meadows (two large beautiful greens on the north of the town), make it as well watered as any town in Scotland; and these greens, just at hand, serve all the inhabitants most commodiously for the necessary labours of washing and bleaching.

The number of inhabitants in Dundee have increased above 4000 since 1780. There was then an accurate list of them taken, when they amounted to near 16,000; and lately they were reckoned and found within a few of 20,000; and since the year 1760 they are fully doubled. Beside the established churches, there are three Episcopal meeting-houses, two of Seceders, one of Methodists, two of Independents, one Berean, and two Anabaptists. One of the Independents is of the Glafite denomination. Mr John Glas, from whom they take that name, resided here; and his principles, though spread far and wide, have always had the greatest following in Dundee.

The trade in the town has increased amazingly of late. Its staple is undoubtedly the linen manufacture: for which in summer 1788 they imported from the Baltic 32 cargoes of flax, hemp, &c. near 3000 tons, beside several quantities from London, Leith, and other places; and on an average the brown linen stamped for the two preceding seasons at the stamp-office here amounted to about four millions of yards, in value about 115,000l. Sterling. The flax is wrought up into coarse linens, chiefly Ofenburghs, sheetings, foldiers shirtings, &c. which is sold partly bleached (several fine large bleachfields being well employed in the neighbourhood) and partly brown. These linens are sent principally to London, Glasgow, and Liverpool, and from thence exported. Seven or eight eight vessels are constantly employed in the trade between Dundee and London, one of which sails every ten or twelve days. The making sail-cloth has been long established here, and is carried on to a good extent. Two rope-works have succeeded well, and a buckram-work has also been established for several years. The Dundee coloured threads have been long highly esteemed, and give bread to a great number of people; indeed it was here that coloured threads first made a figure among the articles of trade in Scotland. Their sugar-house, a large undertaking, and tan-works, are of established reputation. There has been lately erected a large glass-work at a great expense, and a plumbery and foundry are also now carried on to advantage. No doubt the trade of the place has been greatly promoted by the Bank; which is carried forward on the surest and most steady footing, and has always managed the business of the town and neighbourhood in such a way as to keep any other establishment of that kind from taking place. Of late the cotton manufactory has been introduced; a number of jennies being employed in spinning, and several looms in weaving it. A large machine for spinning shorts or backens into candlewicks, the first of the kind in Scotland, is also begun to work here, and promises to do well. A spirit for literature and education has greatly prevailed of late years in Dundee; for beside the public grammar-school, which has an able rector and two good masters; the public English and writing school, where are three very proper masters; there is also lately established, and much encouraged, an academy for mathematics, French, Italian, and the polite arts, with masters suitable for the different branches, and a large apparatus for natural philosophy.

The salmon fishing in Tay is of much consequence; and the town is generally well supplied with fish of various kinds, though like every other article of living much raised in price of late years. Their other markets are also well supplied. An excellent nursery at the west end of the town has been much encouraged; and its neighbourhood is now adorned with many neat and elegant villas, showing the wealth and taste of the inhabitants.

Dundee is the birth-place of the celebrated and learned Hector Boethius, whose History of Scotland has been long in much reputation with many. It, with Perth, Forfar, St Andrew's, and Cupar, returns one member to the British parliament.

**DUNFERMLINE.** See DUMFERRMLINE.

**DUNG,** in husbandry. See AGRICULTURE, p. 20.

**Dung-Bird.** See UPupa.

**Dung Mears,** in husbandry, places where soils and dungs are mixed and digested together. These consist of pits, prepared at the bottom with stone and clay, that they may hold water, or the moisture of the dung; and ought to be so situated, that the sinks and drips of the houses and barns may run into them. Into these pits they cast refuse, fodder, litter, dung, weeds, &c., where they lie and rot together, till the farmer have occasion for them.

**Dung Worms,** a species of fly-worms, of a short and somewhat flat body, found in great plenty among cow-dung in the months of September and October.

**DUNGANON,** the chief town of the county of Tyrone, in the province of Ulster in Ireland. It is Dungannon seated on a hill, and is a place of some strength.

**DUNGARVON,** a town of Ireland, in the county of Waterford. It stands on a bay of the same name, has a commodious harbour for ships, and is a walled town with a castle. W. Long. 7° 55'. N. Lat. 51° 57'.

**DUNIPACE.** See the article CARRON.

**DUNKELD,** a town of Scotland, in the shire of Perth, seated on the north side of the river Tay, in a situation truly romantic, under and among very high and almost inaccessible crags, part naked and part wooded. It is the chief market town of the Highlands, and has been greatly improved with buildings by the Dukes of Athol.

The place is of great antiquity. It was the capital of ancient Caledonia. About the dawn of Christianity, a Pictish king made it the seat of religion, by erecting a monastery of Culdees there; which King David I. in 1130 converted into a cathedral, and it ranked as the first in Scotland. The entire shell of the cathedral still remains, the east end serving for a kirk, on the north side of which is the burial place of the Dukes of Athol. The style of architecture is simple and elegant, the pillars round. The monument of one of its bishops remains in the south aisle of the nave, as also that of Alexander Stuart Earl of Buchan, third son of Robert II., called for his cruelty *The Wolf of Badenoch,* who died 1394. The tower at the west end, with a singular crack down one of its sides, adds to the picturesque appearance which the whole makes among the venerable pines at the end of the Duke's garden. His Grace's seat is a modern building, and not large, with pleasant walks and policies, and a fine cascade on the water of Bran, which in its way from the western hills forms an astonishing fall of 150 feet, called the *Rumbling Brig,* from a narrow bridge made by the fall of two rocks across the stream. The pencil of Rosa never formed a more horrid scene. The stream has a second fall, which, without seeing the other, would be deemed capital. Sir James Galloway, matter of requests to James VI. and Charles I., was created Lord Dunkeld 1645, whose grandson James was attainted at the Revolution, and dying at the beginning of this century, the title became extinct.

**DUNKERS,** Duncards, or Tunkers. See TUNKERS.

**DUNKIRK,** a maritime town of the French Netherlands, situated in E. Long. 2° 28', N. Lat. 51° 10', and is the most easterly harbour on the side of France which is next to Great Britain.—It was originally a mean hamlet, consisting only of a few fishermen's huts; but a church being built there, it was from that, and from its situation, which is a sandy eminence, called Dunkirk; *dun* signifying, in the old Gallic language, a hill; and *kirk* being the old Flemish name for church.

About the year 960, Baldwin Earl of Flanders, thinking the situation convenient, enlarged it into a kind of town, and surrounded it with a wall. In the year 1322, Robert of Flanders, who held it as an appendage, built a castle for its defence; which was afterwards demolished by the revolters of Flanders. Robert of Bar erected a fortification round it, the remains of which are visible on the side next the harbour. The emperor Charles V. who held it as part of Flanders, built built another castle to defend the harbour; but this was also demolished soon afterwards. In 1558, the French, under Marshal de Thermes, took Dunkirk by storm, and almost ruined the place; the Spaniards recovered it again in about a fortnight, and put all the French to the sword.

During a peace procured for the Dunkirkers by Philip II. of Spain, they rebuilt their town with greater splendor than before, and the inhabitants for a long time subsisted by privateers fitted out against the Dutch; and at length, growing rich by these hostilities, they fortified their town and harbour, and fitted out no less than 15 ships of war at their own charge.

In 1634, the Dunkirkers agreed with the inhabitants of Bergues to dig a canal, at their joint expense, for a communication between the two towns; which was some time afterwards effected. By this time, Dunkirk was become the best harbour the Spaniards possessed in Flanders, which induced many foreigners to settle there; and it being necessary to enlarge the town for their accommodation, a new fortified wall was built at a considerable distance from the former. In 1646, it was besieged and taken by the prince of Condé. In 1652 it was retaken by the archduke Leopold, then governor of the Netherlands. France entering into a treaty with England in 1655, the Dunkirkers, with views of pecuniary advantage, fitted out privateers against both those powers: the consequence of which was, that the French, assisted by Cromwell, attacked and took it; and it was put into the hands of the English, in consequence of a treaty between them and the French. To the English it was even then of very great importance; for, during the war in which it was taken, the Dunkirkers had made prizes of no less than 250 of their ships, many of which were of great value. They therefore improved the fortifications, and built a citadel; yet they kept it only four years; for in 1662, two years after the restoration, Charles II. sold this valuable acquisition to France, for the paltry sum of £500,000. In consequence of this sale, the town was taken possession of by the French king Louis XIV. by the count d'Estrades, on the 29th of November 1662. Louis having acquainted the celebrated engineer Monsieur Vauban, that he intended to make Dunkirk one of the strongest places in Europe, Vauban drew up a plan with that view, which was gradually executed. An arsenal was erected, large enough to contain all the stores necessary for fitting out and maintaining a large fleet of men of war; the fortifications on the land-side were constructed in a manner that was thought to render them impregnable; and towards the sea, the entrance of the harbour being properly formed, it was fortified by the jetties, and the two forts called Green Fort and the Fort of Good Hope at their extremities; the famous Rifbank was also erected on one side of the jetties, and Fort Galliard on the other, to secure the town. These works were all completed in 1683; and in 1685, the whole circumference of the bastion was faced with masonry, and the keys completely formed; at the same time care was taken to build at the entrance of this bastion a sluice, almost 45 feet wide, that the ships within might be constantly afloat. In 1689, the fort called the Corniche, and some other works, were completed. But though 30 years had been now employed in improving the fortifications of Dunkirk, it was not yet in the state in which Louis intended to put it; and therefore, in Dunkirk, 1701, he caused a new rifbank to be built, called Fort Blanc.

At the treaty of Utrecht, it having been made appear, that the privateers of Dunkirk had, during the war then closing, taken from the English no less than 1614 prizes, valued at £334,375 l. Sterling, it was stipulated, that the fortifications of the city and port of Dunkirk should be entirely demolished, and the harbour filled up, so as never to be an harbour again.

The treaty, of which this demolition of Dunkirk was an article, was signed on the 28th of April 1713; but the demolition did not take place till the September following, when the queen deputed colonel Armstrong and colonel Clayton to oversee the execution of the treaty as far as concerned the works and harbour of Dunkirk.

Under the inspection of these gentlemen, the places of arms were broken down, the ditches filled up, and the demi-lunes, bastions, and covered way, totally destroyed; the citadel was razed, and the harbour and basin filled up; the jetties were also levelled with the strand, and all the forts which defended the entrance into the harbour were demolished. A large dam, or bar, was also built across the mouth of the harbour between the jetties and the town, by which all communication between the harbour and the canal, which formed its entrance, was entirely cut off. The sluices were also broken up, and the materials of them broken to pieces.

But this was no sooner done, than Louis XIV. ordered 30,000 men to work incessantly upon a new canal, the canal of Mardick, which in a short time they accomplished; by which the harbour was rendered almost as commodious as ever; but in 1717 this likewise was rendered unserviceable.

In the year 1720, during a great storm, the sea broke up the bar or dam, and restored to the Dunkirkers the use of the harbour in a very considerable degree.

In the year 1740, when Great Britain was engaged in a war with Spain, Louis XV. set out about improving the advantage which Dunkirk had derived from the storm in 1720, by retorting the works, and repairing the harbour. He rebuilt the jetties and erected new forts in the place of those which had been destroyed; and soon afterwards he espoused the cause of Spain, and became a principal in the war against us.

But at the peace of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1748, it was stipulated, that all the works towards the sea should be destroyed a second time; yet, before the declaration of the last war, the place was in as good a state of defence towards the sea as it was at any time during the war which was concluded by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle.

DUNSE, a market-town of Scotland, in the shire of Mers, situated in W. Long. 2. 15. N. Lat. 55. 42. It is seated on a rising ground in the middle of the shire, and has a weekly market for cattle. It is by some reputed the birth-place of the famous John Duns Scotus.—A mile south of the town is a well of mineral water, of great use as a deobstruent and antiscorbutic, first discovered in 1747 by Dr Thomas Simpson who practised there.