a large city of Lanarkshire or Clydefdale in Scotland, situated in W. Long. 4. 30. N. Lat. 55. 50.

Concerning the foundation of this city we have no authentic records. The word in the Gaelic language signifies a gray smith; from whence it has been inferred, that some spot in the most ancient part of the city was originally the residence of some blacksmith who had become eminent in his profession, so that the place went by his name.

In the year 560, a bishopric is said to have been founded here by Saint Mungo, or Kentigern, supposed to be the son of Thamates, daughter of Loth king of the Picts; but in what state the town at that time was, is altogether uncertain. Most probably the priests and disciples who attended St Kentigern would contribute considerably towards its advancement: the aged and infirm, who were unfit for the purposes of war, or such as were religiously inclined, would come and settle round the habitation of the holy man, in order to have the benefit of his prayers; and as a number of miracles were said to have been wrought at his tomb, the same cause would still contribute to the increase of the town.

History has not informed us of the name of the prince who founded and endowed the bishopric of Glasgow in favour of St Kentigern. But from an abstract of the life of Kentigern (contained in Mr Innes's Critical Essay on the Ancient Inhabitants of Scotland), which was written in the 12th century, we learn, that the saint being ill used by Marken or Marcus, one of the kings of the Britons, retired into Wales. On the invitation of Roderic, however, one of Marken's successors, he returned to Glasgow, and enjoyed the see till 601, when he died. He was buried in the church of Glasgow, where his monument is still to be seen; and we find him marked among the saints in the Roman calendar, January 13. 578.

The immediate successors of Kentigern were Balredre and Conwal. The first established a religious house at Inchinnan; the second went into Lothian to preach to the Saxons; and both of them are ranked as saints in the Roman calendar, Balredre on the 6th of March 608, and Conwal on the 18th of May 612. From this time, however, till the 1115, we have no distinct accounts concerning the city or bishopric of Glasgow. We find then, that David I., king of Scotland made an attempt to retrieve the people from the state of gross barbarity into which they were fallen, and restored to the church those lands of which he had been robbed. The only account we have of the transactions with regard to Glasgow, during that period, is in the inquisition made by David concerning the church-lands of Glasgow, and is as follows:—“This church, by the divine appointment, admitted St Kentigern into the bishopric, who furnished large draughts of knowledge to those thirsting after heavenly things, &c. But a fraudulent destroyer, employing his common wiles, brought in, after a long series of time, unaccountable scandals into the Cumbrian church. For after St Kentigern and many of his successors were removed to heaven, various disturbances everywhere arising, not only destroyed the church and her possessions, but, wasting the whole country, drove the inhabitants into exile. These good men being destroyed, various tribes of different nations flocking in from several quarters, possessed the forfeited deserted country; but being of different origins, and varying from each other in their language and customs, and not easily agreeing among themselves, they followed the manners of the Gentiles, rather than those of the true faith. The inhabitants of which unhappy and abandoned country, though living like brutes, the Lord, who chooses that none should perish, vouchsafed to visit in mercy,” &c.

From the year 1116 to the reformation, the records of the bishopric are tolerably complete. The most remarkable particulars furnished by them are the following.

In 1136, John Achaius, chosen bishop of Glasgow by David I., built and adorned a part of the cathedral, which he solemnly consecrated on the 9th of July. The king was present at the ceremony; and bestowed on the church the lands of Perdeyk, now Patrick. This prelate also divided the diocese into the two archdeaconries of Glasgow and Teviotdale; and established the offices of dean, subdean, chancellor, treasurer, sacrist, chanter, and successor; and settled a prebendary upon each of them, out of the donatives he received from the king.

In 1174, Joceline, abbot of Melrose, was elected bishop, and consecrated by Eskilus, bishop of Lundin in Denmark, the Pope's legate for that kingdom, on the 11th of June 1175. He rebuilt the cathedral, or rather made an addition to the church already built by John Achaius. He also procured a charter from William king of Scotland, erecting Glasgow into a royal borough, and likewise a charter for a fair to be held there annually for eight days.

In 1335, John Lindsay, bishop of Glasgow, was killed. Glasgow, killed in an engagement at sea with the English, as he was returning home from Flanders. His successor, William Rae, built the stone bridge over the Clyde.

In the time of Matthew Glendoning, who was elected bishop in 1387, the great spire of the church, which had been built only of wood, was consumed by lightning. The bishop intended to have built another of stone; but was prevented by death, in 1408, from accomplishing his purpose. His successor, William Lauder, laid the foundation of the vestry of the cathedral, and built the great tower of stone as far as the first battlement. The great tower of the episcopal palace was founded about the year 1437, on which bishop Cameron expended a great deal of money.

In 1447, William Turnbull, a son of the family of Bedrule in Roxburghshire, was chosen bishop. He obtained from king James II. in 1450, a charter erecting the town and the patrimony of the bishops into a regality. He also procured a bull from pope Nicholas V. for erecting an university within the city, which he endowed, and on which he also bestowed many privileges. He died in 1454, leaving behind him a most excellent character. The establishment of the college contributed more than any thing that had been formerly done towards the enlargement of the town. Before this time the town seems to have been inconsiderable. Mr Gibson * is of opinion, that the number of its inhabitants did not exceed 1500. But though the establishment of the university greatly increased the number of inhabitants, it in fact destroyed the freedom of the town. Bishop Turnbull seems to have made a point of it with king James II. that the city of Glasgow, with the bishops forest, should be erected into a regality in his favour; which was accordingly done at the time above-mentioned; and this at once took away all power from the citizens, and transferred it to the bishop. As the powers of the bishop, however, were reckoned by Turnbull insufficient to convey to the members of the university all that freedom which he wished to bestow upon them, he therefore obtained from the king a great many privileges for them; and afterwards he himself, with the consent of his chapter, granted them many more.

The good effects of the establishment of the college were very soon obvious in Glasgow. The number of inhabitants increased exceedingly; the high street, from the convent of the Black friars, to where the cross is now placed, was very soon filled up; the ancient road which led to the common being too far distant for the conveniency of the new inhabitants, the Gallows-gate began to be built. Soon after, the collegiate church of the blessed Mary (now the Tron-church) being founded by the citizens, occasioned the Trongate street to be carried to the westward as far as the church. The rest of the city increased gradually towards the bridge, by the building of the Salt market street. The borough-roads, and the cattle that grazed on the commons, were now found insufficient to maintain the increased number of inhabitants; for which reason a greater degree of attention than formerly was paid to the fishing in the river. Many poor people subsisted themselves by this occupation; they were incorporated into a society; and in order that they might be at hand to prosecute their business, they built a considerable part of the street now called the Bridge-gate, but at Glasgow, that time Fishers-gate.

Notwithstanding all this, however, the city of Glasgow did not for a long time attain the rank among the other towns of Scotland which it holds at present. In 1556, it held only the 11th place among them, as appears by queen Mary's taxation. The introduction of the reformed religion proved for some time prejudicial to the opulence of the city. The money which had formerly been expended among the citizens by the bishop and his clergy, was now diverted into other channels: the advantages resulting from the university were also for a time lost; for as the reformers generally despised human learning, the college was in a manner deserted.

In the time of the civil wars, Glasgow suffered severely. To the mischiefs attending intestine discord, Great part of the town were added a pestilence and famine; and to complete their misfortunes, a violent fire broke out in June 1652, by a fire, which destroyed the greatest part of the Saltmarket, Trongate, and High street. The fronts of the houses at that time were mostly of wood, so that they became an easy prey to the flames. The fire continued with great violence for the space of 18 hours; by which a great many of the inhabitants were ruined, the habitations of almost 1000 families being totally destroyed. On this account collections were made throughout different parts of the country; and to prevent such accidents for the future, the fronts were built with free stone, which abounds in the neighbourhood.

By the charter given to bishop Turnbull in 1450, the citizens had been deprived of the power of electing their own magistrates, which was thenceforth exercised by the bishop; which, however, was not done without some reluctance on the part of the inhabitants. After the reformation was introduced into Scotland, we find this power exercised by the citizens, the bishop, the earl of Lenox, and others. The idea that the town was a bishop's borough, and not a royal free borough, gave occasion to this unsettled manner of appointing the magistracy; and though, in 1633, they were declared to be a royal free borough by the parliament, yet their freedom of election was afterwards disturbed by the privy-council, by Cromwell, and the duke of York. But on the 4th of June 1690, the town was declared free by a charter of William and Mary; and in confirmation of this charter it was inserted in the act of parliament, dated June 14th the same year, that they shall and freely, in all respects, as the city of Edinburgh or any other royal borough within the kingdom; which freedom of election still continues.

By the affluence of the boroughs in 1695, we find the city of Glasgow reckoned the second in Scotland in point of wealth, which place it still continues to hold. To account for this great increase of wealth, we must observe, that for a long time, even before the restoration of Charles II. the inhabitants of Glasgow had been in possession of the sale both of raw and refined sugars for the greatest part of Scotland; they had a privilege of distilling spirits from their molasses, free of all duty and excise; the herring-fishery was also carried on to what was at that time thought a very considerable extent; they were the only people in Scotland who made soap; Glasgow soap; and they sent annually some hides, linen, &c. to Bristol, from whence they brought back in exchange, a little tobacco, sugar, and goods of the manufacture of England, with which they supplied a considerable part of the kingdom. From the year 1707, however, in which the union between Scotland and England took place, we may date the prosperity of Glasgow. By the union, the American trade was laid open to the inhabitants; and so fertile were they of their advantageous situation, that they began almost instantly to prosecute that commerce; an assiduous application to which, ever since, hath greatly contributed to raise the city to the pitch of affluence and splendor which it at present enjoys. The city was now greatly enlarged; and as the community were sensible of the inconvenience that attended the want of a sufficiency of water in the river for carrying on their commerce, they resolved to have a port of their own nigher the mouth of the river. At first, they thought of making their harbour at Dumbarton; but as this is a royal borough, the magistrates opposed it; because they thought that the influx of sailors and others, occasioned by the harbour, would be so great, that a scarcity of provisions would be occasioned. The magistrates and town-council of Glasgow, therefore, purchased some lands on the south side of the river Clyde for this purpose; and so expeditious were they in making their harbour, and rearing their town, that in 1710 a bailie was appointed for the government of Port-Glasgow. It is now a very considerable parish, and lies 21 miles nigher the mouth of Clyde than Glasgow.

In 1725, Mr Campbell, the member of parliament for Glasgow, having given his vote for having the malt-tax extended over Scotland, a riot ensued among the lower classes of people. In this disturbance, Mr Campbell's furniture was destroyed, and some excisemen were maltreated for attempting to take an account of the malt. General Wade, who commanded the forces in Scotland, had sent two companies of soldiers, under the command of captain Bute, to prevent any disturbance of this kind. Captain Bute drew up his men in the street, where the multitude pelted them with stones. He first endeavoured to disperse the mob by firing with powder only; but this expedient failing, he ordered his men to load their pieces with ball; and, without the sanction of the civil authority, commanded them to fire four different ways at once. By this discharge about 20 persons were killed and wounded; which enraged the multitude to such a degree, that having procured some arms, they pursued Bute and his men to the castle of Dumbarton, about 14 miles distant. General Wade being informed of this transaction, assembled a body of forces, and being accompanied by Duncan Forbes, lord advocate, took possession of the town; the magistrates were apprehended and carried prisoners to Edinburgh; but on an examination before the lords, their innocence clearly appeared, upon which they were immediately dismissed. Bute was tried for murder, convicted, and condemned; but, instead of suffering the penalties of law, he was indulged with a pardon, and promoted in the service. Mr Campbell petitioned the House of Commons for an indemnification of his losses; a bill was passed in his favour; and this, together with some other expenses incurred in the affair, cost the town 9000l. sterling.

During the time of the rebellion in 1745, the citizens of Glasgow gave proof of their attachment to revolution principles, by raising two battalions, of 600 men each, for the service of government. This piece of loyalty, however, had like to have cost them dear. The rebels, in their journey south, took a resolution to plunder and burn the city; which would probably have been done, had not Mr Cameron of Lochiel threatened, in that case, to withdraw his clan. A heavy contribution, however, was laid on. The city was compelled to pay 5000l. in money, and 500l. in goods; and on the return of the rebels from England, they were obliged to furnish them with 12,000 linen shirts, 6000 cloth coats, 6000 pairs of shoes, 6000 pairs of hose, and 6000 bonnets. These goods, with the money formerly paid them, the expense of raising and subsiding the two city-battalions, and the charge of maintaining the rebel army in free quarters for ten days, cost the community about 14,000l. sterling; 10,000l. of which they recovered in 1749, by an application to parliament.

About the year 1750, a very considerable change took place in the manner of living among the inhabitants of Glasgow. Till this time, an attentive industry, and a frugality bordering upon parsimony, had been their general characteristic; the severity of the ancient manners prevailed in its full vigour. But now, when an extensive commerce and increased manufactures had produced wealth, the ideas of the people were enlarged, and schemes of trade and improvement were adopted which people would formerly have been denominated madmen if they had undertaken; a new style was introduced in living, dress, building, and furniture; wheel-carriages were set up, public places of entertainment were frequented, and an assembly-room, ball-room, and playhouse, were built by subscription; and from this time we may date all the improvements that have taken place, not only in Glasgow, but all over the west of Scotland. The best method, however, of estimating the growing improvement of any town, is by the frequency of their applications for assistance to parliament; we shall therefore enumerate the acts of parliament which have been passed in favour of the city of Glasgow since the year 1750. In 1753, an act passed for repairing Acts of several roads leading into the city of Glasgow.—In Parliament 1756, an act for erecting and supporting a light-house in the island of Little Cumnock, at the mouth of the Clyde, and for rendering the navigation of the frith and river more safe and commodious.—In 1759, an act for improving the navigation of the river Clyde to the city of Glasgow, and for building a new bridge across the river.—In 1767, the people of Glasgow having proposed to make a small cut or canal from the frith of Forth to that of Clyde, for the convenience of their trade to the eastern side of the island, several gentlemen at Edinburgh, and throughout different parts of the kingdom, proposed that this canal should be executed upon a much larger scale than what had been originally projected. An act was accordingly obtained, and the canal executed in the manner described under the the article Canal.—In 1770, another act was obtained for improving the navigation of the river, building the bridge, &c., being an amendment of the former act for these purposes.—In 1771, an act for making and widening a passage from the Salt-market to St Andrew's church; for enlarging and completing the church-yard of that church, and likewise for building a convenient exchange or square in the city; also for amending and explaining the former act relative to the navigation of the Clyde.—An act for making and maintaining a navigable canal and waggon-way from the collieries in the parishes of Old and New Monkland, to the city of Glasgow. This last canal, which was undertaken with a view to reduce the price of coals, has not been attended with the desired effect; but the other improvements have been productive of very great advantages.

The most ancient part of the city stands on a rising ground. The foundation of the cathedral is 104 feet higher than the bed of the river; and the descent from the high ground reaches to about 100 yards below the college. The rest of the city is built chiefly upon a plain, bounded southward by the Clyde, and northward by a gentle ridge of hills lying in a parallel direction with that river. These grounds till lately consisted of gardens and fields; but are now covering with buildings, in consequence of the increasing wealth and population of the city. The streets are all clean and well paved; and several of them intersecting one another at right angles, produce a very agreeable effect. The four principal streets, crossing one another in that manner, divide the city nearly into four equal parts; and the different views of them from the cross, or centre of intersection, have an air of great magnificence. The houses, consisting of four or five floors in height, are built of hewn stone, generally in an exceeding good taste, and many of them elegant. The most remarkable public buildings are,

1. The Cathedral or High Church, is a magnificent building, and its situation greatly to its advantage, as it stands higher than any part of the city. It has been intended to form a cross, though the traverse part has never been finished. The great tower is founded upon four large masonry pillars, each of them about 30 feet in circumference. The tower itself is 25½ feet square within; and is surrounded by a balustrade, within which rises an octagonal spire terminated by a finial. The tower upon the west end is upon the same level, but appears not to have been finished, though it is covered over with lead. In this tower is a very large bell 11 feet four inches in diameter. The principal entry was from the west; the gate 11 feet broad at the base, and 17 feet in height. The west end of the choir is now appropriated for a place of divine worship; and is divided from the remaining part by a stone partition, which is inclosed by another stone wall parting it from the nave. It is impossible to form an adequate idea of the awful solemnity of the place occasioned by the loftiness of the roof and the range of pillars by which the whole is supported.

The nave of the church rises four steps higher than the choir; and on the west side stood the organ-loft, formerly ornamented with a variety of figures, but now defaced. The pillars here are done in a better taste than those in the choir, and their capitals are ornamented with fruits. The arched roof of the altar is supported by five pillars, over which was a fine terrace walk, and above it a large window of curious workmanship, but now shut up. On the north side of the altar is the vestry, being a cube of 28 feet, the roof arched and vaulted at top, and supported by one pillar in the centre of the house. Arched pillars from every angle terminate in the grand pillar, which is 19 feet high. The lower part of the south cross is made use of as a burying place for the clergy of the city; and is by much the finest piece of workmanship in the whole building. It is 55 feet long, 28 broad, and 15 high; arched and vaulted at top, and supported by a middle range of pillars, with their capitals highly ornamented; corresponding to which are columns adjoining to the walls, which as they rise, spring into semi-arches; and are everywhere met at acute angles by their opposites, and are ornamented with carvings at the cloising and crossing of the lines. At the east end of the choir you descend by flights of steps upon each side into passages which, in former times, were the principal entries to the burying vault which is immediately under the nave. It is now made use of as a parish church for the barony of Glasgow; and is full of pillars, some of them very massive, which support the arched roof; but it is a very uncomfortable place for devotion. The space under the altar and vestry, though now made use of as a burying-place by the heirs of the barony, was formerly, according to tradition, employed for keeping of the relics; and indeed, from the beautiful manner in which this place is finished, one would imagine that it had not been destined for common use. Here is shown the monument of St Mungo, or Kentigern, with his figure lying in a cumbent posture.

The whole length of the cathedral within the walls is 284 feet, its breadth 65; the height of the choir, from the floor to the canopy, 90 feet; the height of the nave, 85 feet; the height of the middle tower, 220 feet. This fabric was begun by John Achaius in 1123, and consecrated in 1136; and continued by succeeding bishops till such time as it was finished in the manner in which it stands at present. The wealth of the see of Glasgow, however, was not sufficient for so great an undertaking, so that they were obliged to have recourse to all the churches of Scotland for assistance in it.

This venerable edifice was in danger of falling a victim to the frenzy of fanaticism in 1579; and owed its preservation to the spirit and good sense of the tradesmen, who, upon hearing the beat of drum for collecting the workmen appointed to demolish it, flew to arms, and declared that the first man who pulled down a single stone should that moment be buried under it.

Near the cathedral are the ruins of the bishop's palace or castle, inclosed with a wall of hewn stone by archbishop James Beaton; the great tower built by archbishop Cameron in 1426.

2. St Andrew's Church was begun by the community in 1739, and finished in 1756. It is the finest piece of modern architecture in the city; and is built after the model of St Martin's in the Fields, London, whose architect was the famous Gibbs. The length of the the church is 104 feet, and its breadth 66. It has a fine arched roof, well ornamented with figures in stucco, and sustained by stone-columns of the Corinthian order. Correspondent to the model, it has a place for the altar on the east, in which is a very ancient Venetian window; but the altar-place being seated, makes this end appear to no great advantage. The fronts of the galleries and the pulpit are done in mahogany in a very elegant manner. The spire by no means corresponds with the rest of the building; and, instead of being an ornament, disgraces this beautiful fabric. Its height is 170 feet.

Besides the cathedral (which contains three congregations) and St Andrew's church, there is a number of others, as the College-church, Ram's-horn, Tron, Wynd, &c., together with an English chapel, Highland church, several seceding meeting-houses, and others for secretaries of various denominations.

3. The College. The front of this building extends along the east side of the high street, and is upwards of 330 feet long. The gate at the entrance is decorated with rustics, and over it are the king's arms. The building consists of two principal courts or squares. The first is 88 feet long and 44 broad. The west side is elevated upon stone pillars, on which are placed pilasters supporting the Doric entablature, and ornamented with arches forming a piazza. Above these is the public hall; the ascent to which is by a double flight of steps inclosed by a handsome stone balustrade, upon the right of which is placed a lion, and on the left an unicorn, cut in free stone. The spire stands on the east side, is 135 feet high, and has a very good clock. Under this is the gateway into the inner and largest court, which is 103 feet long and 79 broad. Over the entry, in a niche, is a statue of Mr Zacharias Boyd, who was benefactor to the university. On the east side of the court is a narrow passage leading into a handsome terrace walk, gravelled, 122 feet long by 64 feet broad. This walk is inclosed to the east by an iron pallisade, in the centre of which is a gate leading into the garden. This last consists of seven acres of ground, laid out in walks for the recreation of the students; and there is also a botanic garden. On the south side of the walk stands the library; a very neat edifice, well constructed for the purpose intended, and containing a very valuable collection of books. Underneath are preserved in cases all the Roman inscriptions found on Graham's Dike, together with altars and other antiquities collected from different parts of Scotland.—Adjoining, there is an observatory, well furnished with astronomical instruments. The college also possesses, by bequest, the late Dr Hunter's famous anatomical preparations, library, and museum: And in the department of natural philosophy, it is furnished with an apparatus which is universally acknowledged to be the most extensive and useful in Britain, and which owes its perfection to the liberality and unremitting labour of Mr Anderson the present professor of that science.

4. The Tolbooth, or Town House, is a magnificent and extremely elegant building. The front is adorned with a range of Ionic pilasters; and is elevated on strong rusticated pillars with arches, forming a piazza for merchants and others to shelter themselves from the weather when met upon business. One of the apartments was the assembly-room; a neat room, 47 feet long, and 24 in breadth and height, finished in a good taste, though too small for the city. The town-hall is a very spacious and lofty apartment, 52 feet long by 27 broad, and 24 in height. It is finished in a very grand manner; the ceiling is divided into different compartments well ornamented. In it are full length portraits of kings James VI. and VII., Charles I. and II., William and Mary, queen Anne, king George I., II., and III., and Archibald duke of Argyle in his judiciary robes. The two latrines are by Ramsay. Opposite to the front of this building is the exchange-walk, which is well paved with freestone, and inclosed from the street by stone pillars. In the middle of this area is an equestrian statue of king William III., placed upon a lofty pedestal, and surrounded with an iron rail.—In 1781, the exchange under the piazzas was greatly enlarged, by taking down the lower part of the town-hall and assembly-room; and at the same time, by a tontine scheme entered into by the inhabitants, a most elegant coffee-room was added, with a suite of buildings adjoining for the purposes of a tavern and hotel, assembly-room, and offices for notaries and underwriters. The assembly-room, however, being found to be still too small, a subscription of above £5,000 has been raised by a similar plan of a tontine for building a new one, which is proposed to be erected in the north corner of one of the new streets which join Ingram-street to Argyle-street.

5. The Guild-Hall or Merchant's House. This building is situated upon the south side of Bridge-gate street; and is in length 82 feet, in breadth 31. The great hall, which is the whole length and breadth of the building, is so capacious, that it is better adapted for the reception of great and numerous assemblies than any other in the city. This house is adorned with a very elegant spire 200 feet high.

6. The Town's Hospital is a very neat building, consisting of two wings and a large front: the length 156 feet, the breadth of the centre 30 feet, and the depth of the wings 68 feet. Behind the building is an infirmary 127 feet long by 25 feet broad, the ascent to which is by a flight of steps. The lower part of this building is appointed for the reception of lunatics. The area between the buildings is large, which, with the agreeable open situation of the hospital on the river, must conduce to the health of the inhabitants.

7. The Grammar School is situated on the new taken in grounds to the north-west of the town, and was built in 1787. It is a very handsome building, containing a large school, and five airy commodious teaching rooms. In this school there are four classes, the course being four years; each class is carried on the whole four years by the same master; so that, there being no rector, each master is head of the school one year in rotation. It is under the direction of a committee of the town council; who assisted by the professors, clergy, and other persons of learning, frequently visit it during the session; and at an annual examination, prizes of books are distributed to the scholars according to their respective merits. The present number of scholars is above 300.—The building is not yet entirely finished; and the rooms which are not occupied by the Latin classes are intended for teaching writing, arithmetic, drawing, &c.

8. The New Bridge is built in an elegant manner. It is 32 feet wide; with a commodious foot-way for passengers, five feet broad on each side, raised above the road made for carriages, and paved with free stone. This bridge is about 500 feet in length; and consists of seven arches, the faces of which are wrought in rustic, with a strong block cornice above. The archespring but a little way above low-water mark; which, though it renders the bridge stronger than if they sprung from taller piers, diminishes its beauty. Between every arch there is a small circular space; these break the force of the water when the river rises to a flood, and add to the strength of the whole. The parapet-wall or breastwork is cut out in the Chinese taste; and the two ends are finished off with a sweep. This bridge was begun in 1768, and finished in 1772.

9. The Markets in King's Street are justly admired, as being the completest of their kind in Britain. They are placed on both sides of the street. That on the east side, appropriated entirely for butcher-meat, is 112 feet in length, and 67 in breadth. In the centre is a spacious gateway, decorated on each side with coupled Ionic columns, set upon their pedestals, and supporting an angular pediment. At the north end is a very neat hall belonging to the incorporation of butchers, the front ornamented with ruffics and a pediment. The markets upon the west side of the street consist of three courts, set apart for fish, mutton, and cheese. The whole of the front is 173 feet, the breadth 46 feet; in the centre of which, as on the opposite side, is a very spacious gateway of the Doric order, supporting a pediment. This is the entry to the mutton-market. Each of the other two has a well-proportioned arch faced with ruffics for their entrance. All these markets are well paved with free-stone; have walks all round them; and are covered over for shelter by roofs standing upon stone piers, under which the different commodities are exposed to sale. They have likewise pump-wells within, for cleansing away all the filth; which render the markets always sweet and agreeable. These markets were erected in 1754.

10. The Herb-Market is neat and commodious; and the principal entry is decorated with columns. It is situated in the Candleriggs, and is laid out in the same manner with the markets in King's Street.

11. The Guard-House is a very handsome building, with a piazza formed by arches, and columns of the Ionic order set upon their pedestals. It was originally situated on the Highstreet, at the corner of the Canoelriggs street; but has lately been carried near half way up the Candleriggs, where it occupies the ground on which the weigh-house formerly stood, and is made larger and more commodious than it was before. An excellent new weigh house has been erected at the head of the Candleriggs; And at the foot of the Candleriggs, or corner next the Highstreet, where the Guardhouse was formerly situated, a superb new hotel has been built, containing 75 fire-rooms.

The most remarkable public charities in Glasgow are:

1. Muirhead's or St Nicholas's Hospital. This was originally appointed to subside 12 old men and a chaplain; but its revenues have, from some unknown causes, been lost; so that no more of them now remains than the paltry sum of £139 l. 2s. 5d. Scots money, of which is annually divided among four old men, at the rate of £1. 13 s. 4d. each.

2. Hutcheson's Hospital, was founded and endowed Glasgow in 1639 by George Hutcheson of Lambhill notary-public, and Mr Thomas Hutcheson his brother who was bred a preacher, for the maintenance of old men and orphans. The funds of this hospital were increased by James Blair merchant in Glasgow in 1710, and by subsequent donations. From the sale of some of their lands which lay convenient for building, and the rise of the rent, the income is now above £1,400, which is distributed in pensions to old people from £3 to £20, and in educating about 50 children.

3. The Merchants House likewise distributes in pensions and other charities about £800 yearly.

4. The Town's Hospital, above described, was opened for the reception of the poor on the 15th of November 1733. The funds whence this hospital is subsisted are, the general session, the town-council, the trades house and merchants house, the interest of money belonging to their funds, which are sums that have been mortified for the use of the house. These supplies, however, are found insufficient to defray the expenses of the house; for which reason an assessment is annually made upon the inhabitants in the following manner. The magistrates nominate 12, 14, or sometimes more gentlemen of known integrity and character, who have a list laid before them of all the inhabitants in town. This list they divide into 16 or 18 columns. Each of these columns contains the names of such inhabitants as carry on trade to a certain extent, or are supposed to be well able to pay the sum affixed to the particular column in which their names are inserted. If it is necessary to raise £100l. for instance, then each name, in every separate column, is valued at as much as the fortunes of the persons in each particular column are supposed to be. If £100l. or more is to be raised, it is only continuing a proportional increase through the whole of the columns. The highest sum that ever was thus raised, was £12 s. 6d. upon every thousand pounds that each person was supposed to be worth. The number of people maintained in this hospital are about 620.

5. Wilson's Charity for the education of boys, was founded by George Wilson, who in 1778 left £300l. for that purpose. This fund is now considerably increased, and gives education and clothing to 48 boys, who each continues four years, so that 12 are admitted annually.

Besides these, there are many public schools for the education of children; as well as many institutions of private societies for the purpose of relieving the indigent and instructing youth, such as Graham's Society, Buchanan's Society, the Highland Society, &c. These last put annually 20 boys apprentices to trades, and during the first three years give them clothing and education.

The university of Glasgow owes its origin, as we have already observed, to bishop Turnbull. The initial Members' constitution consisted at first of a rector, a dean of faculty, a principal who taught theology, and three professors of philosophy; and, soon after this, the civil and canon laws were taught by some clergymen. From the time of its establishment in 1450 to the reformation in 1560, the college was chiefly frequented by those who were intended for the church; its members were all ecclesiastics, and its principal support was derived from the church. The reformation brought the university to Glasgow, the verge of destruction; masters, students, and servants, all forsook it. The magistrates were sensible of the loss which the community had sustained by this defection, that they endeavoured to restore it in 1572, by bestowing upon it considerable funds, and prescribing a set of regulations for its management. These, however, proved insufficient; for which reason king James VI. erected it anew, by a charter called the Nova Erectio, in 1577, and bestowed upon it the teinds of the parish of Govan. The persons who were to compose the new university were, a principal, three professors of philosophy, four students bursars, one economus, a principal's servant, a janitor, and cook.

Since the year 1577, the funds of the university have been considerably increased by the bounty of kings and the donations of private persons. The professors have therefore also been increased; so that at present the university of Glasgow consists of a chancellor, rector, dean of faculty, principal, and 14 professors (five of them in the gift of the crown), together with bursars, &c. The archbishop of Glasgow was formerly chancellor of the university ex officio; at present, the chancellor is chosen by the rector, dean of faculty, principal, and masters.

The chancellor, as being the head of the university, is the fountain of honour, and in his name are all academical degrees bestowed. The office of rector is to exercise that academical jurisdiction in disputes among the students themselves, or between the students and citizens, which is bestowed upon the greater part of the universities in Europe. He is chosen annually in the comitia; that is, in a meeting in which all the students, as well as the other members of the university, have a voice. Immediately after his admission, he has been in use to choose certain persons as his assistants and counsellors in his capacity of judge; and, in former periods, it was customary to name the ministers of Glasgow, or any other gentlemen who had no connection with the university; but, for a great while past, the rector has constantly named the dean of faculty, the principal, and masters, for his assistants; and he has always been, and still is, in the daily practice of judging in the causes belonging to him, with the advice of his assistants. Besides these powers as judge, the rector summons and presides in the meetings of the university for the election of his successor; and he is likewise in use to call meetings of the professors for drawing up addresses to the king, electing a member to the general assembly, and other business of the like kind.

The dean of faculty has, for his province, the giving directions with regard to the course of studies; the judging, together with the rector, principal, and professors, of the qualifications of those who desire to be created masters of arts, doctors of divinity, &c.; and he presides in meetings which are called by him for these purposes. He is chosen annually by the rector, principal, and masters.

The principal and masters, independent of the rector and dean, compose a meeting in which the principal presides; and as they are the persons for whose behoof chiefly the revenue of the college was established, the administration of that revenue is therefore committed to them. The revenue arises from the teinds of the parish of Govan, granted by king James VI. in 1557; from the teinds of the parishes of Renfrew and Kilbride, granted by the same monarch in 1617, and confirmed by king Charles I. on the 28th of June 1630; from the teinds of the parishes of Calder, Old and New Monkland, conveyed to them by a charter from Charles II. in 1670; from a tack of the archbishopric; and from several donations conferred by private persons.

The college of Glasgow, for a very considerable time after its erection, followed the mode of public teaching which is common even to this day in Oxford and Cambridge, and in many other universities throughout Europe; that is, each professor gave a few lectures every year, gratis, upon the particular science which he professed: but, in place of this, the professors have, for a great while past, adopted the mode of private teaching; that is, they lecture and examine two hours every day during the session, viz. from the 10th of October to the 10th of June; a method which comes much cheaper to the student, as he has it in his power, if he is attentive, to acquire his education without being under the necessity of employing a tutor. They have also private classes, in which they teach one hour per day. The number of students who have attended this college for several years past, has been upwards of 500 each session.

The trade of Glasgow is said to have been first promoted by one Mr William Elphinstone in 1420. This Glasgow trade was most probably the curing and exporting of salmon; but the first authentic document concerning Glasgow as a trading city is in 1546. Complaints having been made by Henry VIII. king of England, that several English ships had been taken and robbed by vessels belonging to Scotland, an order of council was issued, discharging such captures for the future; and among other places made mention of in this order is the city of Glasgow. The trade which at that time they carried on could not be great. It probably consisted of a few small vessels to France loaded with pickled salmon; as this fishery was, even then, carried on to a considerable extent, by Glasgow, Renfrew, and Dumbarton. Between the year 1630 and 1660, a very great degree of attention seems to have been paid to inland commerce by the inhabitants of Glasgow. Principal Baillie informs us, that the increase of Glasgow arising from this commerce was exceedingly great. The exportation of salmon and of herrings were also continued and increased. In the war between Britain and Holland during the reign of Charles II. a privateer was fitted out in Clyde to cruise against the Dutch. She was called the Lion of Glasgow, Robert McAllan commander; and carried five pieces of cannon, and 60 hands.

A spirit of commerce appears to have arisen among the inhabitants of Glasgow between the year 1660 and 1707. The citizens who distinguished themselves most during this period were Walter Gibson and John Anderson. Gibson cured and packed in one year 100 lasts of herrings, which he sent to St Martin's in France on board of a Dutch vessel, called the St Agnes, of 450 tons burthen; his returns were brandy and salt. He was the first who imported iron from Stockholm into Clyde. Anderson is said to have been the first who imported white-wines.

Whatever their trade was at this time, it could not be considerable; the ports to which they were obliged obliged to trade lay all to the eastward: the circumnavigation of the island would therefore prove an almost unsurmountable bar to the commerce of Glasgow; and of consequence the people on the east coast would be possessed of almost all the commerce of Scotland. The union with England opened a field for commerce for which the situation of Glasgow, so convenient in respect to the Atlantic, was highly advantageous. Since that time the commerce of the salt coal has declined, and that of the west increased to an amazing degree. No sooner was the treaty of union signed, than the inhabitants of Glasgow began to prosecute the trade to Virginia and Maryland; they chartered vessels from Whitehaven, sent out cargoes of goods, and brought back tobacco in return. The method in which they at first proceeded in this trade, was certainly a very prudent one. A supercargo went out with every vessel. He bartered his goods for tobacco, until such time as he had either sold off his goods, or procured as much tobacco as was sufficient to load his vessel. He then immediately set out on his return; and if any of his goods remained unsold, he brought them home with him. While they continued to trade in this way, they were of great advantage to the country, by the quantity of manufactures which they exported; their own wealth began to increase; they purchased ships of their own; and, in 1718, the first vessel of the property of Glasgow crossed the Atlantic. Their imports of tobacco were now considerable, and Glasgow began to be looked upon as a considerable port; the tobacco-trade at the ports of Bristol, Liverpool, and Whitehaven, was observed to dwindle away; the people of Glasgow began to send tobacco to these places, and to underfill the English even in their own ports. Thus the jealousy of the latter was soon excited, and they took every method in their power to destroy the trade of Glasgow. The people of Bristol presented remonstrances to the commissioners of the customs at London against the trade of Glasgow, in 1717. To these remonstrances the merchants of Glasgow sent such answers to the commissioners as convinced them that the complaints of the Bristol merchants were without foundation. But in 1721, a most formidable confederacy was entered into by almost all the tobacco-merchants in South Britain against the trade of Glasgow. Those of London, Liverpool, and Whitehaven, presented severally to the Lords of the Treasury, petitions, arraigning the Glasgow merchants of frauds in the tobacco trade. To these petitions the Glasgow people gave in replies; and the Lords of the Treasury, after a full and impartial hearing, were pleased to dismiss the cause with the following sentence: "That the complaints of the merchants of London, Liverpool, and Whitehaven, were groundless; and that they proceeded from a spirit of envy, and not from a regard to the interest of trade, or of the king's revenue."

But the efforts of these gentlemen did not stop here. They brought their complaints into the House of Commons. Commissioners were sent to Glasgow in 1722, who gave in their reports to the house in 1723. The merchants sent up distinct and explicit answers to these reports; but such was the interest of their adversaries, that these answers were disregarded. New officers were appointed at the ports of Greenock and Port-Glasgow, whose private instructions seem to have been, to ruin the trade if possible, by putting all imaginable hardships upon it. Hence it languished till the year 1735; but after that time it began to revive, though even after its revival it was carried on but slowly for a considerable space of time.

At last, however, the active and enterprising spirit of the merchants, seceding the natural advantages of their situation, prevailed over all opposition; and the American trade continued to flourish and increase until the year 1775, inasmuch that the importation of tobacco into Clyde that year from the provinces of Virginia, Maryland, and Carolina, amounted to 57,143 hogsheads. But since the breach with America, this trade has now fallen greatly off, and very large sums are laid to remain due to the merchants from that quarter of the world.

With regard to the manufactures of Glasgow, Mr Manufac-Gibson is of opinion that the commerce to America first suggested the idea of introducing them, in any considerable degree at least. The first attempts in this way were about the year 1725, and their increase for some time was very slow, nor did they begin to be considerable till great encouragement was given by the legislature to the linen manufacture in Scotland. The first causes of the success of this manufacture were the act of parliament in 1748, whereby the wearing of French cambrics was prohibited under severe penalties; that of 1751, allowing weavers in flax or hemp to settle and exercise their trades anywhere in Scotland free from all corporation-dues; and the bounty of three-halfpence per yard on all linens exported at and under 18d. per yard. Since that time a spirit of manufacture has been excited among the inhabitants of Glasgow; and great variety of goods, and in very great quantity, have been manufactured. Checks, linen, and linen and cotton, are manufactured to a great extent. Printed linens and cottons were begun to be manufactured in 1738; but they only made garments till 1754, when handkerchiefs were first printed.

Inclines were first made here about the year 1732. The engine-looms used at that time were so inconvenient, and took up so much time in making the goods, that the Dutch, who were the only people possessed of the large incline-looms, were almost solely in possession of this manufacture. Mr Hervey, who began this branch in Glasgow, was so sensible of the disadvantages under which it laboured, that he went over to Holland; and in spite of the care and attention which the Dutch took to conceal their methods of manufacturing, he brought over with him from Haarlem two of their looms, and one of their workmen. This Dutchman remained some years in Glasgow; but on some difficulty he went to Manchester, and instructed the people there in the method of carrying on the manufacture.

In 1757, carpets were begun to be made, and are now carried on to a considerable extent. Hunters cloths, English blankets, and other goods of the same kind, are also made.

Besides these, a great variety of articles are manufactured at Glasgow, of which our limits will not permit us to enter into a detail, such as soap, refining of sugar, ironmongery, brafs, jewellery, glas both common and white, pottery, &c. Types for printing are made in this city by Dr Wilson and Sons, equal, Glasgow, if not superior, in beauty to any others in Britain.

Printing of books was first begun here by George Anderson about the year 1638. But there was no good printing in Glasgow till the year 1735, when Robert Urie printed several books in a very elegant manner. The highest perfection, however, to which printing hath yet been carried in this place, or perhaps in any other, was by the late Robert and Andrew Foulis, (who began in the year 1740); as the many correct and splendid editions of books printed by them in different languages sufficiently testify. Some of their classics, it is said, are held in such high esteem abroad, as to sell nearly at the price of ancient MSS. The same gentlemen also established an academy of painting; but the wealth of Scotland being unequal to the undertaking, it has been since given up.

Since the stagnation of the American trade, already noticed, the merchants of Glasgow have turned their attention more to manufactures, which have of late, especially that of cottons and muslins, increased in a very rapid degree, and bid fair for putting the city in a more flourishing condition than ever it was before. The manufacturing-houses, the influx of people for carrying on the manufactures, the means and encouragement which these afford to population, and the wealth thence derived by individuals as well as accruing to the community, have all tended lately to increase, and are daily increasing, the extent of the city and the elegance of the buildings. Besides various improvements in the old streets, several handsome new ones as well as new squares have been added. The site of these new buildings is the tract of rising ground already mentioned as the north boundary of the town previous to its late extension. The western part of it, which is perfectly level, is occupied by a spacious square, denominated George's Square; two sides of which are built and inhabited, and a third begun. The grass plot in the middle is inclosed with a handsome iron railing. The square is deficient in regularity; the houses on the west side being a story higher than those of the east; but in other respects it is very neat. To the east of this square are several new streets laid out and paved, and some of them almost completely built on. The principal, though as yet the most incomplete of these streets, is Ingram Street, which runs from east to west. From this the others begin; some of them being carried northward up the hill, others going southward and joining the main street of the town. One of the finest of these cross streets is Hutcheson Street.

The south boundary of the city was mentioned to be the Clyde. Over this river there are two bridges. One of them, the Old Bridge, built about 400 years ago by archbishop Rae, but since repaired and partly rebuilt, consists of eight arches; and connects the suburbs of Gorbals, situated on the opposite side of the river, with the city. The other is the New Bridge, described above.—On the banks of the river, eastward, is the Green; a spot appropriated to the use of the inhabitants, with conveniences for washing and drying linens, and with agreeable and extensive walks for recreation.

On the same or south side of the town, westward, is the Broomielaw, where the quay is situated. Till within these few years, the river here and for several miles distance, was so shallow and so obstructedly shoals, as to admit only of small craft from Greenock, Port-Glasgow, and the Highlands; but of late it has been cleared and deepened so as to admit vessels of considerable burden; and it is intended to make the depth as nearly equal as possible to that of the canal, in order that the vessels from Ireland and the west coast may not be induced exclusively to ascend the west end of the canal and deliver their goods at Canal-baton, but may come up Clyde and unload at the Broomielaw.

The government of the city of Glasgow is vested in a provost and three bailies, a dean of guild, deacon-conveneer, and a treasurer, with a common council of the city—13 merchants and 12 mechanics. The provost and two of the bailies must, by the act of the borough, be elected from the merchant rank, and the other bailie from the trades rank, i.e., the mechanics. The provost is, from courtesy and custom, styled lord provost. He is properly lord of the police of the city, president of the community, and is ex officio a justice of the peace for both the borough and county.

The revenue of the town arises from a duty upon all Number of grain and meal brought into the city (which tax is denominated the lairds); from the rents of lands and houses the property of the community; from an impost of two pence Scots upon every Scots pint of ale or beer brewed inbrought, or sold, within the city; from certain dues payable out of the markets; from the rents of the seats in churches; from the dues of craneage at the quay, at the weigh-house, &c. As to the tonnage on the river, the pontage of the bridge, and statute-work; these, making no part of the city revenue, are kept separate and distinct under the management of commissioners appointed by act of parliament.

About the time of the union, the number of inhabitants in Glasgow was reckoned about 14,000. In 1765, when a new division of the parishes took place, they were estimated at 28,000. In 1785, when an accurate survey was made, the number was about 36,000; besides the suburbs, containing the Calton, Gorbals, and Anderston, reckoned about 1000. Since that time many new buildings, as above noticed, have been erected, and the city has become considerably more populous, but no exact estimate has been made; though it is generally thought that the number of inhabitants cannot at present be computed at much less than 50,000.