(anciently called Inverleith), the port of Edinburgh, is seated on the banks of the Forth, about two miles from the capital. It is built on both sides of the harbour; by which it is divided into two parts, called North and South Leith. The communication between these was by a stone bridge of three arches founded by Robert Ballantyne abbot of Holyrood-house in 1493, but lately pulled down. The harbour is formed by the conflux of the rivulet called the Water of Leith with the Frith of Forth. The depth of water, at neap-tides, is about nine feet; but in high spring-tides, it is about 16 feet. In the beginning of the present century, the town-council of Edinburgh improved the harbour at an enormous expense, by extending a stone-pier a considerable way into the sea. In 1777, they erected an additional stone quay towards its west side. Upwards of 100 ships could then lie conveniently in this port; but it can now admit of a much greater number, in consequence of having lately undergone great improvements. In order to enlarge it, the old bridge has been pulled down, and an elegant draw-bridge erected a little to the eastward of the former site. It is accommodated with wet and dry docks, and other conveniences for ship building, which is there carried on to some extent, as vessels come to Leith to be repaired from all parts of Scotland. A new basin and docks are are proposed to be added; which, when completed, will render this a very capacious, as well as a most safe and convenient, station for trading vessels. And the road of Leith affords good anchorage for ships of the greatest size.

The harbour of Leith was granted to the community of Edinburgh by king Robert in 1329; but the banks of the harbour belonged to Logan of Restalrig, a turbulent and ambitious baron, from whom the citizens were under the necessity of purchasing the bank or waste piece of ground between the houses and the rivulet above mentioned, for the purposes of wharfs, as well as for erecting shops and granaries, neither of which they could do before. As the situation of Leith, however, is much more convenient for trade than that of Edinburgh, which is two miles distant from the harbour, the inhabitants of the metropolis have fallen upon various methods of restraining the trade of Leith. They first purchased, from Logan of Restalrig, an exclusive privilege of carrying on every species of traffic in the town of Leith, and of keeping warehouses and inns for the entertainment of strangers in that place; and in 1483, the town-council prohibited, under severe penalties, the citizens of Edinburgh from taking into partnership any inhabitant of Leith. To free themselves from this oppression, the people of Leith purchased the superiority of their town from Logan of Restalrig for 3000l. Scots, and it was erected into a burgh of barony by the queen regent, Mary of Lorraine, who promised to erect it into a royal borough. She died, however, before this was accomplished; and upon her death, Francis and Mary, in violation of the private rights of the people of Leith, re sold the superiority to the town of Edinburgh, to whom it has since been confirmed by grants from successive sovereigns.

On the breaking out of the disturbances at the Reformation, the queen-regent caused the whole town to be fortified, that the French troops might have a more ready inlet into the kingdom. It was accordingly surrounded with a wall, having eight battions; but this wall went no farther than the street now called Bernard's nook, because at that time the sea came up the length of that street; and even as late as 1623, a house situated exactly where the weigh-house is at present, is described as bounded on the east by the "sand of the sea-shore." All that space, therefore, on which the row of houses nearest the harbour of Leith now stands, has been gained since that time from the sea.

In the time of Charles I, a fortification was erected at Leith by the Covenanters. Cromwell built a strong fort at the place still called the citadel in North-Leith; but it was pulled down on the restoration of Charles II, by order of government. A gate with portcullises are the present remains of that fortification.—A palace also appears to have formerly stood here, situated at the north-east boundaries of the former town, on the spot where the present weigh-house stands. It was destroyed by the English in the time of Henry VIII. The remains of this building, called the king's work, with a garden, and a piece of waste land that surrounded it, was erected into a barony by James VI. and bestowed upon Bernard Lindsay of Lochill, groom of the chamber to that prince. He is said to have fully repaired, and appropriated it to the recreations of the court; but it soon fell from its dignity, and became subservient to much more ignoble purposes. The tennis court was converted into a weigh house; and the street which bounds it still bears the name of the founder, from whom it is called Bernard's nook.

As Leith lay within the parish of Restalrig, the church of Restalrig was of consequence the place of worship for the inhabitants of Leith; but in 1650 the Assembly ordered that church to be pulled down as a monument of idolatry, so that Leith wanted a parish-church for upwards of 50 years. During that period they resorted for worship to a large and beautiful chapel already built, and dedicated to St Mary, which is now called South Leith church; and in 1609 this chapel was by authority of parliament declared to be the parish church of the district; so that Restalrig is now in the parish of South-Leith, as the latter was formerly in that of Restalrig. In 1772, a Chapel of Ease was erected by the inhabitants, as the parish-church was insufficient to contain the number of hearers. There are also an episcopal and several dissenting congregations in Leith. North-Leith is a parish by itself, and the church is situated at what was the north end of the old bridge.

Though a very great trade is carried on between Leith and many foreign ports, yet the articles of export and import fluctuate so much, that it would be useless to enter into any details either as to species or quantity. In general, the imports from France, Spain, and Portugal, are wines, brandy, and fruits; from the West Indies and America, rice, indigo, rum, sugar, and logwood. But the principal foreign trade of Leith is by the eastern seas, for the navigation of which it is most happily situated. To Germany, Holland, and the Baltic, it exports lead, glass-ware, linen and woollen stuffs, and a variety of other goods; and from thence it imports immense quantities of timber, oak-bark, hides, linen rags, pearl ashes, flax, hemp, tar, and many other articles. The Baltic trade, however, is at present rather on the decline; the great extent to which it was carried on for some years past having been chiefly owing to the vast increase of new buildings in Edinburgh and its environs. The coasting trade is at present the principal branch that employs the shipping at Leith, including those which belong to other ports on the Forth, which are said to make about one fourth of the tonnage of the Leith vessels. The ships employed in the London trade are in general of a large size, elegantly constructed, and furnished with excellent accommodations for passengers. They make an average four voyages up and down in the year. The largest ships in this port, however, are those employed in the Greenland fishery.

The shipping at Leith renders the demand for ropes, sail-cloth, and cordage, very considerable. There were lately three different companies who carried on these manufactures, besides some private persons who dealt less considerably. The first of these companies was established in the beginning of the present century; and 20 years ago made, it is said, larger dividends among the partners than any trading or manufacturing company in the nation. There are only three companies at present, but a number of private manufacturers.

In the middle of the last century, a manufactory of green glass was established at the citadel of Leith. Chopin bottles were sold at 4s. 6d. per dozen, and other other bottles in proportion. Soon afterwards this article was manufactured also in North Leith; and, in 1707, chopin bottles were sold at 2s. 6d. per dozen, and so proportionally. That house being burnt down in 1746, a new house was built the following year on South-Leith sands, and an additional one in 1764. The annual expense of both houses was between 8000l. and 9000l. Another was afterwards added, and three more have lately been erected. They manufacture not only bottles, but also window-glass and crystal-ware of all sorts.

Manufactures of soft soap and candles were erected by St Clair of Rosslyn and some merchants; the former in 1750, and the latter in 1770: a manufacture of hard soap was also established in 1770. Besides these, there are a considerable manufacture for making cards with which wool is combed, a great carpet-factory, and several iron-forges. There was also a sugar-house; but it has been given up, as has likewise Mr St Clair's soap-work.

The inhabitants of Leith were divided into four classes; and these erected into corporations by the queen dowager, Mary of Lorraine. These were mariners, maltmen, trades, and traffickers. The first of these consisted of shipmasters and sailors; the second, of malt-makers and brewers; the third, of coopers, bakers, smiths, wrights, &c.; and the fourth, of merchants and shop-keepers. Of these corporations the mariners are the most considerable. They obtained from Mary of Lorraine a gift, afterwards ratified by William and Mary, of one penny duty on the ton of goods in the harbour of Leith, for the support of their poor. This duty, which not many years ago did not amount to 40l. a-year, now rises from 70l. to 120l. as trade flourishes. For the same purpose the shipmasters also pay 6d. a-pound out of their own wages annually; and the like sum they give upon the wages of their sailors. From these and other donations, this corporation is enabled to pay from 600l. to 700l. a-year to their poor. Opposite to South-Leith church there is a large house belonging to them, called the Trinity-hospital, because originally consecrated to the Holy Trinity. In this house some of their poor used formerly to be maintained, but now they are all out-pensioners. Besides other apartments, this hospital contains a large handsome hall for the meetings of the corporation. Adjoining to the school-house there is another hospital, called king James's hospital; and bears upon its front the cypher and arms of that prince. Here some poor women belonging to the other corporations are maintained.

As the town of Leith was very ill supplied with water, and the streets were neither properly cleaned nor lighted, an act for remedying these defects was passed in the year 1771, appointing certain persons from among the magistrates of Edinburgh, lords of session, inhabitants of Edinburgh and Leith, and members of the corporations of Leith, commissioners of police; empowering them to put this act in execution; and, for that purpose, to levy a sum not exceeding 6d. in the pound upon the valued rent of Leith. The great change which has since taken place on the streets of Leith shows the good effect of this act, and that it has both been judiciously prepared, and attentively executed.

Leith is computed to contain about thirteen thousand inhabitants. The government of the town is vested in a magistrate sent from Edinburgh, having admiral's power; and in two residing bailies elected, by the town-council.