a very remarkable volcanic mountain on the island of St Vincent's in the West Indies. It was visited by Mr James Anderson surgeon in the year 1784, who is the only person that ever ascended to the top of it, and from whose account, in the Philosophical Transactions, Vol. LXXV. the following is taken.
The mountain in question is situated on the north-west part of the island, and is the highest in it. It is constantly reported to have emitted volcanic eruptions; and the ravins at the bottom seem to corroborate the traditions of the inhabitants in this respect. The structure of it, when viewed at a distance, appears different from that of any other mountain in the island, or that Mr Anderson had seen in the West Indies. He could perceive it divided into many different ridges, separated by deep chasms, and its summit appeared quite destitute of every vegetable production. Several ravins, that run from the bottom a great way up the mountain, were found quite destitute of water, and pieces of pumice-stone, charcoal, and several earths and minerals of a particular quality, found in them, plainly indicated some very great singularity in this mountain. Some very old men also informed our author, that they had heard it related by the captain of a ship, that between this island and St Lucia he saw flames and smoke rising from the top of the mountain, and next morning his decks were covered with ashes and small stones.
Mr Anderson's curiosity was so much excited by these circumstances, that he formed a resolution of going up to the top; but was informed that this was impossible, nor could he find either white man, Caribbee, or negro, who would undertake to show him the way. Having observed the basis as well as he could, with a view to discover the most proper place for attempting an ascent, he found several dry ravins that seemingly ran a great way up, though he could not be certain that they were not intersected by rocks or precipices lying across. Having examined the mountain with a good glass, he thought he perceived two ridges by which there was a possibility of getting up; and though they appeared to be covered for a great way with wood, he hoped by a little cutting to open a way through it.
On the 26th of February 1784 our author began his journey, having been furnished by Mr Maloune, who lives within a mile of the foot of the mountain, with two stout negroes, and having another boy who waited on himself. They arrived at the bottom of the mountain a little before seven in the morning, having each a good cutlass to cut through the woods, or to defend themselves in case of an attack from the Caribbees or runaway negroes. Before they could get at either of the ridges, however, they had a rock to climb upwards of 40 feet high. Having scrambled up this with great difficulty, they found themselves in the bottom of a deep and narrow ravine, which having ascended a little way, they arrived at the habitation of Mr Gasco a Frenchman. Mr Anderson expresses his surprise, that a young and healthy man, and a good mechanic, should seclude himself from the world among woods and precipices, where he was besides in continual danger of being swept away with his whole habitation by the torrents occasioned by the rains. He found him, however, an intelligent man, and was hospitably entertained by him.
"The difficulty (says Mr Anderson) in going through woods in the West Indies, where there are no roads or paths, is far beyond anything an European can conceive. Besides tall trees and thick underwood, there are hundreds of different climbing plants twisted together like ropes, and running together in all directions to a great extent, and even to the tops of the highest trees. They cannot be broken by pushing on; and many of them are not to be cut without difficulty. Besides these, a species of grass, the *Lithophyllum*, with ferrated leaves, cuts and tears the hands and face terribly."
By reason of these obstructions, it was upwards of two hours before they got upon the ridge; but here they found their passage more difficult than before. They were now surrounded by a thick forest, rendered more impracticable by the large piles of trees blown down by the hurricanes; which obliged them in many places to creep on their hands and feet to get below them, while in others it was necessary to climb to a considerable height to get over them; at the same time that by the trunks being frequently rotten, they often tumbled headlong from a great height, and could not extricate themselves without great difficulty.
The fatigue of cutting their way through the woods soon became intolerable to the negroes; so that about four in the afternoon he could not prevail on them to go any farther. Mr Anderson therefore perceiving it was impossible to get to the summit that night, and his water being totally expended, returned to Mr Gasco's, where he spent the night, determining to try another route next morning. The hospitable Frenchman entertained him in the best manner he could; but though he parted with his own hammock to him, and slept on a board himself, Mr Anderson found it impossible to shut his eyes the whole night by reason of the cold. "His hut (says he) was built of *rofaux* or large reeds, between each two of which a dog might creep through, and the top was covered with dry grass. It is situated in the bottom of a deep gully, where the sun does not shine till nine in the morning nor after four in the afternoon. It is surrounded by thick wood; and during the night the whole of the mountain is covered with thick clouds, from which it frequently rains, and which makes the night-air exceedingly cold."
Early next morning Mr Anderson set out in company with the negro boy, who continued very faithful to him during the whole of the journey. He now determined to take his course up the ravine, and proceeded for about a mile and a half without any considerable obstruction. It now, however, began to narrow fast; there were numbers of rocks and precipices to climb over, with many bushes and vines which could scarcely be got through. At last the ravine terminated at the bottom of a very high precipice. It was impossible to know the extent of this, as the top was covered with thick wood; but from the bottom upward, as far as he could see, was loose sand with ferns and tufts of grass, which as soon as he took hold of them came up by the roots. Though the ascent was plainly at the risk of his life, Mr Anderson resolved to attempt it; and therefore telling the boy to keep at some distance behind, lest he should tumble and drive him down, he began to ascend, digging holes with his cutlass to put his feet in, and taking hold of the tufts of grass as lightly as possible. Notwithstanding all his care, however, he frequently slipped down a considerable way; but as it was only loose sand, he could easily push his cutlass into it up to the handle, and thus by taking hold of it recover himself again. At last he got up to some wild plantains, which continued all the way to the place where the trees began to grow. Here he rested for some time, waiting for the boy, who got up with much less difficulty than he had done. On getting up to the top of the precipice, he found himself on a very narrow ridge, covered with wood, and bounded by two ravines, the bottoms of which he could not see, the descent to them appearing to be nearly perpendicular, though all the way covered with thick wood. Proceeding onwards, they found the ridge exceedingly narrow, in many places not six feet broad; with a tremendous gulf on each side, into which they were every moment in danger of falling; so that Mr Anderson was obliged to lie down on his belly with great caution, in order to see through the bushes how the ridge tended.
Here a fulphurous smell, or rather one like gunpowder, began to be perceived; which, Mr Anderson knew, must proceed from the top of the mountain, as the wind then blew that way; and as it plainly grew stronger as he advanced, he was in hopes that the top could not be very far distant. Perceiving a rising before him, he imagined, that, by getting upon it, he might have a view of the top of the mountain; but when this was done, he could only see a peak on the north-west side of the mountain, to which, by appearance, he judged himself very little nearer than when at the bottom.
The woods now became very difficult, great quantities of fallen trees lying buried among the grass; and being rotten, he was frequently buried very deep among them when he thought himself walking upon firm ground. About noon he was alarmed with a rustling among the bushes, and something like a human voice behind him; but as he was preparing to defend himself against Caribbees or run-away negroes, he was agreeably surprised with the sight of those who had formerly left him, with three others, sent by Mr Maloune with plenty of provisions. Encouraged by this affixture, after refreshing themselves, they renewed their labours with fresh vigour, and Mr Anderson thought himself sure of reaching the top before night. In a little time he had a fair view of the ravine on the left, which was of prodigious depth, and ran from near the top of the mountain to the sea. Its bottom seemed to be a rock nearly resembling lava in colour, and it seemed as if there had been vast torrents of sulphurous matter running upon it for some time.—He now regretted much that he knew not of this ravine before he commenced his excursion, as, by passing a headland in a canoe, and getting into it, he might have gained the summit without all those delays and difficulties he had encountered.
About four in the afternoon he had no prospect of the top of the mountain, but imagined that if he could get into the ravine before night, he might easily reach it next morning. After cutting through wild plantains for a great way, however, he found himself at sunset on the brink of a precipice, over which he prevented himself from falling by catching hold of some shrubs. They were now about half way down, but all the rest of the way seemed a perpendicular precipice, which it was impossible to pass; the top of the mountain was yet a great way off, and there was no other resource than to attempt the ridge they had left. The evening was now so far advanced, that they were obliged to take up their residence where they were; and there was only time to place two or three sticks against the stump of a tree, and slightly to cover them with plantain leaves for a night's habitation.—Their situation, however, was extremely uncomfortable: it began to rain and blow violently, which prevented them from getting a fire made, so that they were almost chilled with cold. As soon as they could see, they renewed their work with great alacrity, and in a short time had the satisfaction to perceive that the woods became thin. About eleven o'clock they obtained a full view of the top, about a mile distant. It seemed to be composed of six or seven ridges, very much broken in the sides, as if they had suffered great convulsions; and they were divided by excessively deep ravines without any water in them. Mr Anderson directed his course towards a high peak that overlooked a large excavation where the ridges met, and which he supposed to be the crater of the volcano. In his way, he found the last wood composed of a most beautiful species of trees. After that he entered into a thick long grass intermixed with fern, which branched and ran in every direction. Thro' this they were obliged to cut their way with almost as much difficulty as they had done through the woods, and it seemed to continue very near to the top of the mountain. The fatigue of this work soon reduced them to such a situation, that they were scarce able to stand; and they were obliged to quench their thirst, which was excessive, by chewing the leaves of the begonia obliqua, there being no water to be had in the place. Two of the negroes returned, and the rest refused to proceed any farther; so that Mr Anderson himself was obliged to abandon the enterprise, and they all began to descend about half an hour after twelve; and as there was now a clear path all the way down, they arrived at Mr Gafco's by sun-set; and notwithstanding his extreme weariness, Mr Anderson continued his journey to Mr Maloune's, where he arrived between six and seven at night.
Our traveller having refreshed himself to the 4th of March, in order to sustain the fatigues of his journey the better, set out about four that morning in company with a Mr Fraser, who had resolved to accompany him. They met with little difficulty till they came to the place whence they had formerly returned. Here, however, they were obliged for a quarter of a mile to cut their way through the grass and ferns already mentioned; which being done, they met with no further obstruction. When they came within a quarter of a mile of the top, they found the climate suddenly altered, the air very cold, and the vegetable productions changed, the whole summit of the mountain being barren. On the confines of the grassy and barren regions, however, he found some beautiful plants; and he observes, that this is the only place in the West Indies where he ever found moss; but here it grows in such plenty, that he frequently sunk in it up to the knees. About noon they reached the summit, and were instantly surprised with the sight of a most extraordinary cavity. It is situated in the very centre of the mountain, at the place where all the ridges meet. Its diameter is something more than a mile, and its circumference to appearance a perfect circle. Its depth from the surrounding margin is above a quarter of a mile, and it narrows a little, but very regularly, to the bottom. Its sides are very smooth, and for the most part covered with short moss, except towards the south, where there are a number of small holes and rents. This is the only place where it is possible to go down to the bottom; and the descent is very dangerous on account of the numberless small chasms. On the west side is a section of a red rock like granite, cut very smooth, and having the same declivity with the other parts. All the rest of the surrounding sides seem to be composed of sand, which has undergone the action of an intense fire. It has a crust quite smooth, and about an inch thick, almost as hard as rock; on breaking thro' which we meet with nothing but loose sand. In the centre stands a burning mountain about a mile in circumference, of a conic form, "but quite level." Out of the middle of the summit rises a small eminence eight or ten feet high, and perfectly conical; from the apex of which a column of smoke constantly issues. It is composed of large masses of red granite-like rock, of various shapes and sizes, which appear to have been split into their present form by some terrible convulsion of nature; and are piled up very regular. Great quantities of smoke issue from most parts of the mountain, especially on the north side, which appears to be burning from top to bottom; and the heat is so intense, that it is impossible to ascend it. It is even very dangerous to go round the base, as large masses of rock are constantly splitting with the heat and tumbling down. At the bottom, on the north side, is a very large rock split in two. Each of these halves, which are rent in all directions, are separated to a considerable distance from each other, and the crevices have gloomy efflorescences tasting like vitriol. There are also beautiful crystallizations of sulphur; and on all parts of the mountain are great quantities of sulphur, also alum, vitriol, &c.
From the external appearance of this mountain, Mr Anderson conjectures that it had but lately begun to burn; as on several parts of it he saw small shrubs and grass, which looked as if they had been but lately scorched and burnt. There were also several holes on the south from which smoke issued, that appeared to have broken out but lately, the adjacent bushes being but lately burnt. On two opposite sides, the east and west, of the burning mountain, are two lakes of water, about a stone's throw in breadth. They appear to be deep in the middle, and have a bottom of a kind of clay. The water is a chalybeate, and has a pleasant taste. These lakes probably derive their existence in a great measure, if not totally, from the rain-water running down the sides of the crater. On the north side Mr Anderson observed the traces of great torrents, that to appearance had conveyed vast quantities of water to these lakes; and by the stones at the bottom he could perceive that absorption or evaporation, or both, went on very fast. The greater part of the bottom of the crater is very level; and on the south side are some shrubs and small trees. Some pieces of pumice-stone were met with, and many stones about the size of a man's fist, rough, and blue upon one side, are scattered all over the mountain.
The motion of the clouds on the top of this mountain was very singular. Though there were several parts higher than the crater, yet the clouds seemed always to be attracted by the latter. After entering on its east or windward side, they sunk a considerable way into it; then mounting the opposite side, and whirling round the north-west corner of the mountain, they ran along a ridge which tended nearly north-east, and afterwards sunk into a deep ravine dividing this ridge from another on the north-west corner of the mountain, and the highest on it, lying in a direction nearly north and south. They keep in this ridge to the south end, and then whirl off in their natural direction.
From the situation of these islands to one another, and to the continent of South America, Mr Anderson conjectures, that there are submarine communications between the volcanoes in each of them, and from them to those in the high mountains of South America. He observes, that the crater in this island lies nearly in a line with Soufriere in St Lucia and Morne Pelee in Martinique; and probably from thence to a place of the same kind in Dominique, and from thence to the other islands; there being something of the kind in each, Barbadoes and Tobago excepted.