a fort of North America, which was taken from the French 1759, and still remains in possession of the British government. To the author of the American Geography this seems to give great offence; probably because the fort in a manner commands all the interior parts of the continent; is a key to the north-western territories of the United States; and is surrounded by Six Nations of Indians, with whom the English have been long in alliance. It is situated on a small peninsula formed by the river Niagara as it flows into the lake Ontario. About five leagues from the fort is the greatest cataract in the world, known by the name of the Waterfall of Niagara. The river at this fall runs from SSE to NNW; and the rock of the fall crosses it not in a right line, but forms a kind of figure like an hollow semicircle or horseshoe. Above the fall, in the middle of the river, is an island about 800 or 1000 feet long; the lower end of which is just at the perpendicular edge of the fall. On both sides of this island runs all the water that comes from the lakes of Canada; viz. Lake Superior, Lake Michigan, Lake Huron, and Lake Erie, which have some large rivers that open themselves into them. Before the water comes to this island, it runs but slowly compared with its motion afterwards, when it grows the most rapid in the world, running with a surprising swiftness before it comes to the fall. It is perfectly white, and in many places is thrown high up into the air. The water that runs down on the west side is more rapid, in greater abundance, and whiter, than that on the east side; and seems almost to outfly an arrow in swiftness. When you are at the fall, and look up the river, you may see that the water is everywhere exceedingly steep, almost like the side of a hill; but when you come to look at the fall itself, it is impossible to express the amazement it occasions. The height of it, as measured by mathematical instruments, is found to be exactly 137 feet; and when the water is come to the bottom, it jumps back to a very great Niagara, great height in the air. The noise may be heard at the distance of 45 miles, but seldom further; nor can it be heard even at Fort Niagara, which is only six leagues distant, unless Lake Ontario is calm. At that fort it is observed, that when they hear the noise of the fall more loud than ordinary, they are sure that a north-east wind will follow; which is the more surprising, as the fort lies south-west from the fall. At some times the fall makes a much greater noise than at others; and this is held for an infallible sign of approaching rain or other bad weather.

From the place where the water falls there arises abundance of vapour like very thick smoke, insomuch that when viewed at a distance you would think that the Indians had set the forests on fire. These vapours rise high in the air when it is calm, but are dispersed by the wind when it blows hard. If you go into this vapour or fog, or if the wind blows it on you, it is so penetrating, that in a few moments you will be as wet as if you had been under water. Some are of opinion that when birds come flying into this fog or smoke of the fall, they drop down and perish in the water; either because their wings are become wet, or that the noise of the fall astonishes them, and they know not where to go in the darkness; but others think that seldom or never any bird perishes there in that manner; because among the abundance of birds found dead below the fall, there are no other sorts than such as live and swim frequently in the water; as swans, geese, ducks, water-hens, teal, and the like. And very often great flocks of them are seen going to destruction in this manner: they swim in the river above the fall, and so are carried down lower and lower by the water; and as water-fowl commonly take great delight in being carried with the stream, they indulge themselves in enjoying this pleasure so long, till the swiftness of the water becomes so great, that it is no longer possible for them to rise, but they are driven down the precipice and perish. They are observed, when they draw nigh the fall, to endeavour with all their might to take wing and leave the water; but they cannot. In the months of September and October such abundant quantities of dead water-fowl are found every morning below the fall, on the shore, that the garrison of the fort for a long time live chiefly upon them. Besides the fowl, they find also several sorts of dead fish, also deer, bears, and other animals, which have tried to cross the water above the fall; the larger animals are generally found broken to pieces. Just below, a little way from the fall, the water is not rapid, but goes all in circles, and whirls like a boiling pot; which however does not hinder the Indians going upon it in small canoes a-fishing; but a little further, and lower, the other smaller falls begin. When you are above the fall, and look down, your head begins to turn; even such as have been here numberless times, will seldom venture to look down, without at the same time keeping fast hold of some tree with one hand.

It was formerly thought impossible for any body living to come at the island that is in the middle of the fall; but an accident that happened about 50 years ago made it appear otherwise. The history is this: Two Indians of the Six Nations went out from Niagara fort to hunt upon an island that is in the middle of the river, or strait, above the great fall, on which there used to be abundance of deer. They took some French brandy with them from the fort, which they tasted several times as they were going over the carrying-place; and when they were in their canoe, they took now and then a dram, and so went along up the strait towards the island where they proposed to hunt; but growing sleepy, they laid themselves down in the canoe, which getting loose drove back with the stream, farther and farther down, till it came nigh that island that is in the middle of the fall. Here one of them, awakened by the noise of the fall, cried out to the other, that they were gone: Yet they tried if possible to save life. This island was nighest, and with much working they got on shore there. At first they were glad; but when they had considered everything, they thought themselves hardly in a better state than if they had gone down the fall, since they had now no other choice, than either to throw themselves down the same, or perish with hunger. But hard necessity put them on invention. At the lower end of the island the rock is perpendicular, and no water is running there. The island has plenty of wood; they went to work then, and made a ladder or threads of the bark of the lime-tree (which is very tough and strong) so long till they could with it reach the water below: one end of this bark-ladder they tied fast to a great tree that grew at the side of the rock above the fall, and let the other end down to the water. So they went down along their new-invented stairs, and when they came to the bottom in the middle of the fall they rested a little; and as the water next below the fall is not rapid, as before-mentioned, they threw themselves out into it, thinking to swim on shore. We have said before, that one part of the fall is on one side of the island, the other on the other side. Hence it is, that the waters of the two cataracts running against each other, turn back against the rock that is just under the island. Therefore, hardly had the Indians begun to swim, before the waves of the eddy threw them down with violence against the rock from whence they came. They tried it several times, but at last grew weary; and by being often thrown against the rock they were much bruised, and the skin torn off their bodies in many places. So they were obliged to climb up stairs again to the island, not knowing what to do. After some time they perceived Indians on the shore, to whom they cried out. These saw and pitied them, but gave them little hope or help: yet they made haste down to the fort, and told the commandant where two of their brothers were. He persuaded them to try all possible means of relieving the two poor Indians; and it was done in the following manner:

The water that runs on the east side of this island is shallow, especially a little above the island towards the eastern shore. The commandant caused poles to be made and pointed with iron; two Indians took upon them to walk to this island by the help of these poles, to save the other poor creatures, or perish themselves. They took leave of all their friends, as if they were going to death. Each had two such poles in his hands, to set to the bottom of the stream, to keep them steady; and in this manner reached the island; and having given poles to the two poor negroes there, they all Niagara. all returned safely to the main land. These two Indians (who in the abovementioned manner were first brought to this island) were nine days on the island, and almost ready to starve to death. Now since the road to this island has been found, the Indians go there often to kill deer, which have tried to cross the river above the fall, and are driven upon it by the stream. On the west side of this island are some small islands or rocks, of no consequence. The east side of the river is almost perpendicular, the west side more sloping. In former times, a part of the rock at the fall which is on the west side of the island, hung over in such a manner, that the water which fell perpendicularly from it left a vacancy below, so that people could go under between the rock and the water; but the prominent part some years since broke off and fell down. The breadth of the fall, as it runs in a semicircle, is reckoned to be about 300 feet. The island is in the middle of the fall, and from it the water on each side is almost the same breadth; the breadth of the island at its lower end is about 100 feet. Below the fall, in the holes of the rocks, are great plenty of eels, which the Indians and French catch with their hands without any other means. Every day when the sun shines, you see here from ten o'clock in the morning to two in the afternoon, below the fall, and under you, where you stand at the side of the fall, a glorious rainbow, and sometimes two, one within the other. The more vapours, the brighter and clearer is the rainbow. When the wind carries the vapours from that place, the rainbow is gone, but appears again as soon as new vapours come. From the fall to the landing above it, where the canoes from Lake Erie put ashore (or from the fall to the upper end of the carrying-place), is half a mile. Lower the canoes dare not come, lest they should be obliged to try the fate of the two Indians, and perhaps with less success. They have often found below the fall pieces of human bodies, perhaps drunken Indians, that have unhappily come down to the fall. The French say, that they have often thrown whole great trees into the water above, to see them tumble down the fall: they went down with surprising swiftness, but could never be seen afterwards; whence it was thought there was a bottomless deep or abyss just under the fall. The rock of the fall consists of a grey limestone.

Having mentioned the Six Nations which live on the banks of the Niagara, we shall here, in addition to what we have said elsewhere (see America, No. 17.), subjoin a few particulars relative to those nations, which, as they seem not to be well understood even in America, are probably still less known in Europe. The information which we have to give was communicated to the Royal Society of London by Mr Richard Maufland surgeon to the 8th regiment of foot, who, writing from the best authority, informs us, that each nation is divided into three tribes, of which the principal are called the turtle-tribe, the wolf-tribe, and the bear-tribe.

Each tribe has two, three, or more chiefs, called sachems; and this distinction is always hereditary in the family, but descends along the female line: for instance, if a chief dies, one of his sister's sons, or one of his own brothers, will be appointed to succeed him. Among these no preference is given to proximity or primogeniture; but the sachem, during his lifetime, pitches upon one whom he supposes to have more abilities than the rest; and in this choice he frequently, though not always, confides the principal men of the tribe. If the successor happens to be a child, the offices of the post are performed by some of his friends until he is of sufficient age to act himself.

Each of these posts of sachem has a name which is peculiar to it, and which never changes, as it is always adopted by the successor; nor does the order of precedence of each of these names or titles ever vary. Nevertheless, any sachem, by abilities and activity, may acquire greater power and influence in the nation than those who rank before him in point of precedence; but this is merely temporary, and dies with him.

Each tribe has one or two chief warriors; which dignity is also hereditary, and has a peculiar name attached to it.

These are the only titles of distinction which are fixed and permanent in the nation; for although any Indian may by superior talents, either as a counsellor or as a warrior, acquire influence in the nation, yet it is not in his power to transmit this to his family.

The Indians have also their great women as well as their great men, to whose opinions they pay great deference; and this distinction is also hereditary in families. They do not sit in council with the sachems, but have separate ones of their own.—When war is declared, the sachems and great women generally give up the management of public affairs into the hands of the warriors. It may however so happen, that a sachem may at the same time be also a chief warrior.

Friendships seem to have been instituted with a view towards strengthening the union between the several nations of the confederacy; and hence friends are called the friends of the Six Nations. An Indian has therefore generally one or more friends in each nation. Besides the attachment which subsists during the lifetime of the two friends, whenever one of them happens to be killed, it is incumbent on the survivor to replace him, by presenting to his family either a scalp, a prisoner, or a belt consisting of some thousands of wampum; and this ceremony is performed by every friend of the deceased.

The purpose and foundation of war-parties, therefore, is in general to procure a prisoner or scalp to replace the friend or relation of the Indian who is the head of the party. An Indian who wishes to replace a friend or relation presents a belt to his acquaintance; and as many as choose to follow him accept this belt, and become his party. After this, it is of no consequence whether he goes on the expedition or remains at home (as it often happens that he is a child); he is still considered as the head of the party. The belt he presented to his party is returned fixed to the scalp or prisoner, and passes along with them to the friends of the person he replaces. Hence it happens, that a war-party, returning with more scalps or prisoners than the original intention of the party required, will often give one of these supernumerary scalps or prisoners to another war-party whom they meet.