a country of Europe (for the map see DENMARK), lying between the 57th and 72d degrees of north latitude, and between the 5th and 31st degrees of longitude east from London; extending in length about 1000 miles, in a direct line from Lindeinaes, in the diocese of Christiania, to the North Cape, at the extremity of Finnmark. Its breadth, from the frontiers of Sweden westward to Cape Statt, may amount to about 300 miles; but from thence the country becomes gradually narrower towards the north. On the south it is bounded by the Schagen-rock, or Categate, the entrance into the Baltic; on the east it is divided from Sweden by a long ridge of high mountains; and on the west and north it is washed by the northern ocean. In the southern part of Norway, the country is craggy, abrupt, and mountainous, diversified sometimes with fertile and even delightful spots. In these respects it resembles Switzerland; the prospects and the meteorological phenomena seem to be very similar. The range of the thermometer is of great extent; in the summer having risen to 88°, and in the winter fallen to —40°; in general it is between 80° and —22°.
Respecting the population of Norway it is difficult to attain to certainty. An author of some note (Coxe) seems to think they amount to 750,000; but he appears to have over-rated them considerably.
The Norwegian peasants are free, well-clothed, well-lodged, spirited, active, frank, open, and undaunted. They are said to have a very considerable resemblance to the peasants of Switzerland. The soil is too thin for... Norway, for the plough: corn is therefore obtained from the neighbouring flats; and the chief employment of the peasants of Norway is grazing. The following extract from Mr Coxe, being a description of the scene near Christiana, is not beside our purpose, and may not perhaps be disagreeable to our readers.
"As we approached Christiana, the country was more wild and hilly, but still very fertile and agreeable; and about two miles from the town we came to the top of a mountain, and burst upon as fine a view as ever I beheld. From the point on which we stood in raptures, the grounds laid out in rich enclosures, gradually sloped to the sea; below us appeared Christiana, situated at the extremity of an extensive and fertile valley, forming a semicircular bend along the shore of a most beautiful bay, which, being inclosed by hills, uplands, and forests, had the appearance of a large lake. Behind, before, and around, the inland mountains of Norway rose on mountains covered with dark forests of pines and fir, the inexhaustible riches of the north. The most distant summits were capped with eternal snow. From the glow of the atmosphere, the warmth of the weather, the variety of the productions, and the mild beauties of the adjacent scenery, I could scarcely believe that I was nearly in the 60th degree of northern latitude."
The coast of Norway, extending above 300 leagues, is studded with a multitude of small islands, affording habitation to fishermen and pilots, and pasture to a few cattle. They form an infinite number of narrow channels, and a natural barrier of rocks, which renders Norway inaccessible to the naval power of its enemies. Attempts of this kind are the more dangerous, as the shore is generally bold, steep, and impending; so that close to the rocks the depth of the sea amounts to 100, 200, or 300 fathoms. The perils of the north sea are moreover increased by sudden storms, sunk rocks, violent currents, and dreadful whirlpools. The most remarkable vortex on this coast is called Møkkelstrom, from the small island Møkkel, belonging to the district of Lofoten in the province of Nordland. In time of flood, the stream runs up between Lofoten and Møkkel with the most boisterous rapidity; but in its ebb to the sea, it roars like a thousand cataracts, so as to be heard at the distance of many leagues. The surface exhibits different vortices; and if in one of these any ship or vessel is absorbed, it is whirled down to the bottom, and dashed in pieces against the rocks. These violent whirlpools continue without intervals, except for a quarter of an hour, at high and low water, in calm weather; for the boiling gradually returns as the flood or ebb advances. When its fury is heightened by a storm, no vessel ought to venture within a league of it. Whales have been frequently absorbed within the vortex, and howled and bellowed hideously in their fruitless endeavours to disengage themselves. A bear, in attempting to swim from Lofoten to Møkkel, was once hurried into this whirlpool, from whence he struggled in vain for deliverance, roaring so loud as to be heard on shore; but, notwithstanding all his efforts, he was borne down and destroyed. Large trees being absorbed by the current, are felled down, and rise again all shattered into splinters. There are three vortices of the same kind near the islands of Ferroc.
Vol. XIII. Part I.
Norway is divided into the four governments of Norway, Aggerhus, Bergen, Drontheim, and Wardhus, besides that of Bahu, which is now subject to Sweden. The province of Aggerhus comprehends the south-east part of Norway, extending in length about 300 miles. Its chief towns are Christiana, the see of a bishop, suffragan to the metropolitan see of Drontheim, where the sovereign court of justice is held, in presence of the viceroy and the governor of the province; Aggerhus, about 15 miles to the south-west of Christiana; Fredericksfjall or Fredericksfjadt, in the siege of which Charles XII. of Sweden lost his life; Saltzberg, Tonfsberg, Alcen, Hammar, and Hollen.
The government of Bergen lies in the most southerly and westerly part of Norway, including the city of the same name, which is an episcopal see, and a place of considerable trade; and Staffanger, situated in the bay of Buckensfior, about 80 miles to the southward of Bergen. The third province, called Drontheim or Trondhjem, extends about 500 miles along the coast; and is but thinly peopled. The chief town Drontheim, seated on a little gulph at the mouth of the river Nider, is the only metropolitan see in Norway; and carries on a considerable trade in masts, deals, tar, copper, and iron. Leetfjord, Stronden, Scoerdel, Opdal, Romfjael, and Solendal, are likewise places of some traffic. The northern division of Drontheim, called the sub-government of Salten, comprehends the towns Melanger and Scheen. The province of Wardhus, extending to the North Cape, and including the islands, is divided into two parts; namely, Finnmark and Norwegian Lapland. The chief town, which is very inconsiderable, stands upon an island called Ward, from whence the place and the government derive their name. The province of Bahu, though now yielded to the Swedes, is reckoned part of Norway, being a narrow track of land, about 90 miles in length, lying on the coast of the Categate.
The great chain of Norway mountains, running from north to south, called indifferently Rudfield, Sudefield, Skarsfield, and Scoreberg, is known in different parts by other appellations; such as Defrefield, Lamsefield, Sagnefield, Tilefield, Halnefield, Hardangerfield, Julefield, Byglfield, Hickfield, and Hangfield. The height and breadth of this extensive chain likewise vary in different parts. To pass the mountain Hardanger, a man must travel about 70 English miles, whereas Tilefield may be about 50 over. This last rises about two miles and a half in perpendicular height; but Defrefield is counted the highest mountain of Norway, if not of Europe. The river Drivane winds along the side of it in a serpentine course, so as to be met nine times by those who travel the winter-road to the other side of the chain. The bridges are thrown over roaring cataracts, and but indifferently fattened to the steep rocks on either side; so that the whole exhibits a very dreadful appearance, sufficient to deter the traveller from hazarding such a dangerous passage; for which reason, people generally choose the road over Tilefield, which is much more tedious. This, however, is the post-road used by the king's carriages. The way is distinguished by posts fixed at the distance of 200 paces from each other, that, in snowy or dark weather, the traveller may not be bewildered. wildered. For the convenience of resting and refreshing, there are two mountain-houses or housetops maintained on Filgfield, as well as upon other mountains, at the expense of the public, and furnished with fire, light, and kitchen-utensils. Nothing can be more dismal and dreary than these mountains covered with eternal snow, where neither house, tree, nor living creature is to be seen, but here and there a solitary rein-deer, and perchance a few wandering Laplanders.
In travelling from Sweden to Nordenfields, there is only one way of avoiding this chain of mountains; and that is, where it is interrupted by a long deep valley, extending from Romsdale to Gudbrandsdale. In the year 1612, a body of 1000 Scots, commanded by Sinclair, and sent over as auxiliaries to the Swedes, were put to the sword in this defile, by the peasants of Gudbrands, who never give quarter.
Besides this chain, there is a great number of detached mountains over all the country, that form valleys and ridges, inhabited by the peasants. Some of these are of incredible height, and others exhibit very remarkable appearances. In sailing up Joering Creek on the left hand, the sight is astonishèd with a group of mountains, resembling the prospect of a city, with old Gothic towers and edifices. In the parish of Oerfjord is the high mountain Skopshorn, the top of which represents the figure of a fortification, with regular walls and battlements. In the district of Hulgeland appears a very high range of mountains, with seven pinnacles or crests, known by the appellation of the Seven Sisters, discernible a great way off at sea. To the southward of this range, though in the same district, rises the famous mountain Torgbatten, so called because the summit resembles a man's head with a hat on, under which appears a single eye, formed by an aperture through the mountain, 150 ells high, and 3000 ells in length. The sun may be seen through this surprising cavity, which is passable by the foot of travellers. On the top of the mountain we find a reservoir of water, as large as a moderate fish-pond; in the lower part is a cavern, through which a line 400 fathoms in length, being let down, did not reach the bottom. At Herro in Sundmoer is another cavern called Dalfleen, supposed to reach under the sea to Scotland; which, however, is no more than an idle tradition. In the year 1750, two clergymen entered this subterranean cavity, and proceeded a considerable way, until they heard the sea dashing over their heads; the passage was as wide and high as an ordinary church, the sides perpendicular, and the roof vaulted. They descended one flight of natural stairs; but arriving at another, they were afraid to penetrate farther: they had gone so far, however, that two candles were consumed in their progress and return. A cavern of a very curious nature, serving as a conduit to a stream of water, penetrates through the sides of the mountain Limur. In the district of Rake, in the neighbourhood of Frederickshall, are three cavities in a rock; one of which is so deep, that a small stone dropped down, does not reach the bottom in less than two minutes; and then the sound it produces is pleasant and melodious, not unlike the sound of a bell.
The vast mountains and rugged rocks that deform the face of this country are productive of numberless inconveniences. They admit of little arable ground; they render the country in some parts impassable, and everywhere difficult to travellers: they afford shelter to wild beasts, which come from their lurking holes, and make terrible havoc among the flocks of cattle; they expose the sheep and goats, as well as the peasant, to daily accidents of falling over precipices; they occasion sudden torrents, and falls of snow, which descend with incredible impetuosity, and often sweep away the labours of the husbandman; and they are subject to dreadful disruptions, by which huge rocks are rent from their sides, and, hurling down, overwhelm the plains below with inevitable ruin. The peasants frequently build their housetops on the edge of a steep precipice, to which they must climb by ladders, at the hazard of their lives; and when a person dies, the corpse must be let down with ropes, before it can be laid in the coffin. In winter the mail is often drawn up the sides of steep mountains. Even in the king's road, travellers are exposed to the frequent risks of falling over those dreadful rocks; for they are obliged to pass over narrow pathways, without rails or railing on the sides, either shored up with rotten posts, or suspended by iron bolts fastened in the mountains. In the narrow pass of Naerøe is a remarkable way of this kind, which, above 600 years ago, the famous king Sverre caused to be made for the passage of his cavalry; and even this would have been found impassable by any other horses than those of Norway, which are used to climb the rocks like goats. Another very difficult and dangerous road is that between Shoeglad and Vang in Volders, along the side of a steep mountain, in some places so narrow, that if two travellers on horseback should meet in the night, they would find it impracticable either to pass each other, or turn back. In such a case their lives could not be saved, unless one of them should alight, and throw his horse headlong into the lake below, and then cling to the rock, until the other could pass. When a sheep or goat makes a false step to the projection of a rock, from whence it can neither ascend nor descend, the owner hazards his own life to preserve that of the animal. He directs himself to be lowered down from the top of the mountain, sitting on a cross stick, tied to the end of a long rope; and when he arrives at the place where the creature stands, he fastens it to the same cord, and it is drawn up with himself. Perhaps the other end of the rope is held by one person only; and there are some instances in which the assistant has been dragged down by the weight of his friend, so that both have perished. When either man or beast has had the misfortune to fall over very high precipices, they have not only been suffocated by the repulsion of the air, but their bodies have been always burst before they reached the ground. Sometimes entire crests of rocks, many fathoms in length and breadth, have fallen down at once, creating such a violent agitation of the air, as seemed a prelude to the world's dissolution. At Steenbroe in Laerdale, a stupendous mass, larger than any castle in the universe, appears to have been severed and tumbled from the mountain in large, sharp, and ragged fragments, through which the river roars with hideous bellowing. In the year 1731, a promontory on Sundmoer, called Rammersfield, that hung... hung over Nordal Creek, suddenly gave way, and plunged into the water; which swelled to such a degree, that the church of Strand, tho' half a league on the other side of the bank, was overflowed; the creek, however, was not filled up; on the contrary, the fishermen declare they find no difference in the depth, which is said to exceed 900 fathoms.
The remarkable rivers of Norway are these: The Nied, issuing from Tydalen, on the borders of Sweden, runs westward into the lake Selbode; and afterwards, turning to the northward, passes by the city of Drontheim, to which it anciently gave the name of Nidvoros and Nidrefoa: Sule Ely, that descending from Sulefield, runs with a rapid course thro' Nordale into the sea; Gulen, which rises near Sfarsfield in the north; and running 20 leagues westward, thro' Aalen, Hlotaalen, Storen, and Melhus, discharges itself into the sea, about a league to the west of Drontheim. In the year 1344, this river buried itself underground: from whence it again burst forth with such violence, that the earth and stones thrown up by the eruption filled the valley, and formed a dam; which, however, was soon broken and washed away by the force of the water. Divers churches, 48 farm-houses, with 250 persons, were destroyed on this occasion. Otteroen, a large river, taking its rise from the mountain Agde, runs about 30 leagues through Setterdale and Eche, and disembogues itself into the cataract of Wiland. The river Syre rises near the mountain Lang, and winds its course thro' the vale of Syre into the lake of Lunde in the diocese of Christiania; thence it continues its way to the sea, into which it discharges itself through a narrow strait formed by two rocks. This contraction augments its impetuosity, so that it shoots like an arrow into the sea, in which it produces a very great agitation. Nid and Sheen are two considerable rivers, issuing out of Tillemark. Their water-falls have been diverted, with infinite labour, by canals and passages cut through the rocks, for the convenience of floating down the timber. Tyreford, or Dramme, is in the neighbourhood of Honifosse, joined by two rivers from Oedale and Hadeland, and disembogues itself into the sea near Bragernes. Loven rises in the highest part of Nummedal, and runs through Konberg to the sea near Laurvig. Glaamen is the largest river of Norway, distinguished by the name of Sior Elvin, or the great river. It derives its origin from the mountain Dofre, from whence it winds all along the plains of Oesterdale and Soloe; then joins the Vorme, another considerable river rising out of Mios and Guldbranddalen. These being joined, traverse the lake Oeyeren; and thence issuing, run on to Sarp near Frederickstadt.
Norway abounds with fresh-water lakes; the principal of which are, Ryvand in Nordland, Smafen, Selboe, the Greater and Lesser Mios, Slirevand, Spedville, Rand, Veifa, Saren, Modum, Lund, Norfoe, Huidfoe, Farivand, and Oeyevand: all these are well stocked with fish, and navigable for large vessels. Wars have been formerly carried on upon these inland seas; in some of which are small floating islands, or parcels of earth, with trees on them, separated from the main land, and probably preserved in compact masses by the roots of trees, shrubs, and grasses, interwoven in the soil. In the year 1702, the family-seat of Borge, near Frederickstadt, being a noble Norway edifice, with lofty towers and battlements, suddenly sunk into an abyss 100 fathoms deep, which was instantaneously filled by a piece of water 300 ells in length and about half as broad. Fourteen persons, with 200 head of cattle, perished in this catastrophe, which was occasioned by the river Glaamen precipitating itself down a water-fall near Sarp, and undermining the foundation. Of all the water-falls in Norway this of Sarp is the most dangerous for its height and rapidity. The current drives 17 mills; and roars with such violence, that the water, being dashed and comminuted among the rocks, rises in the form of rain, where a beautiful rainbow may be always seen when the sun shines. In ancient times this cataract was made use of for the execution of traitors and other malefactors: they were thrown down alive, that they might be dashed in pieces on the points of rocks, and die in a dreadful commotion, analogous to those they had endeavoured to excite in the community.
Great part of Norway is covered with forests of wood, which constitute the principal article of commerce in this country. They chiefly consist of fir and pine, for which great sums are received from foreigners, who export an immense number of masts, beams, planks, and boards. Besides, an incredible quantity is consumed at home, in building houses, ships, bridges, piles, moles, and fences; over and above the vast demand for charcoal to the foundries, and fuel for domestic uses. Nay, in some places, the trees are felled for no other purpose but to clear the ground and to be burned into ashes for manure. A good quantity of timber is yearly exported to Scotland and Spain: but this is inconsiderable when compared to the vast exports from Drammen, Frederickshall or Frederickstadt, Christiania, Skeen, Arendal, Christiania, Christian's-bay, and Drontheim. The masts and large beams are floated down the rivers, and the rest is divided into boards at the saw-mills. These works supply a vast number of families with a comfortable subsistence. A tenth part of all sawed timber belongs to his Danish majesty, and makes a considerable branch of his revenue. The forests in Norway are so vast and thick, that the people seem to think there can never be a scarcity of wood, especially as the soil is peculiarly adapted for the production of timber: they therefore destroy it with a wasteful hand; inasmuch that more wood rots in Norway than is burned in the whole kingdom of Denmark. The best timber grows in the provinces of Saltan, Helleland, Romfdale, Guldbranddalen, Oesterdale, Soloe, Valders, Hallingdale, Sogniford, Telemark, and the lordship of Nedene.
The climate of Norway is very different in different parts of the kingdom. At Bergen the winter is so moderate, that the seas are always open and practicable both to mariners and fishermen, except in creeks and bays, that reach far up into the country towards Filefield, when the keen north east wind blows from the land. On the east side of Norway from the frontiers of Sweden to Filefield, the cold generally sets in about the middle of October with great severity, and lasts till the middle of April; during which interval the waters are frozen to a very considerable considerable thickness, and the face of the country is covered with snow. In the year 1719, 7500 Swedes, who intended to attack Drontheim, perished in the snow on the mountain of Ruden or Tydel, which separates Jemteland in Sweden from the diocese of Drontheim. A company of 200 Norwegian fledge-men under major Emahus, found them all frozen to death on the ridge of the mountain, where they had been surprised by a storm accompanied with snow, hail, and extreme cold. Some of these unhappy victims appeared sitting, some lying, and others kneeling in a posture of praying. They had cut in pieces their muskets, and burned the little wood they afforded. The generals Labarre and Zoega lost their lives; and of the whole corps, consisting originally of 10,000, no more than 2500 survived this dreadful catastrophe.
The cold is still more intense in that part of Norway called Finnmark, situated in the frigid zone near the polar circle. But if the winter is generally cold, the summer is often excessively hot, in Norway. The rays of the sun are reverberated from the sides of the mountains so as to render the weather close and sultry in the valleys; besides, the sun's absence below the horizon is so short, that the atmosphere and mountains have not time to cool. The heat is so great, that vegetation is remarkably quick. Barley is sown, grows, ripens, and is reaped, in the space of six weeks or two months.—The longest day at Bergen consists of 19 hours; the sun rising at half an hour after two, and setting at half an hour after nine. The shortest day does not exceed six hours; for the sun rises at nine in the morning, and sets at three in the afternoon. In the beginning of the year the daylight increases with remarkable celerity; and, at the approach of winter, decreases in the same proportion. In summer one may read and write at midnight by the light of the sky. Christian V. while he resided at Drontheim, used to sup at midnight without candles. In the district of Tromsø, at the extremity of Norway, the sun is continually in view at midsummer. It is seen to circulate day and night round the north pole, contracting its orbit, and then gradually enlarging it, until at length it leaves the horizon. In the depth of winter, therefore, it is for some weeks invisible; and all the light perceived at noon is a faint glimmering for about an hour and a half, proceeding from the reflection of the sun's rays from the highest mountains. But the inhabitants of these provinces are supplied with other lights that enable them to follow their employments in the open air. The sky being generally serene, the moonshine is remarkably bright, and, being reflected from the mountains, illuminates the valleys. They are also assisted by the Aurora Borealis, which is very frequent in the northern parts of Europe.
The air of Norway is generally pure and salubrious. On the sea-coasts, indeed, it is rendered moist by vapours and exhalations; but in the midland parts of the country, towards the mountains, the climate is so dry, that meal may be kept for many years without being worm-eaten or damaged in the least. The inhabitants have no idea of sickness, except what is occasioned by excesses. It is said, that in the vale of Gudbrand the inhabitants live to such extreme old age, that they become weary of life, and cause themselves to be removed to a less salubrious climate, whereby they may have a chance of dying sooner. In consumptions, however, the moist air on the sea-side is found to be most agreeable to the lungs in respiration. Norway, being a mountainous country intersected by creeks, abounding with lakes, rivers, and snow, must be subject to frequent rains; and from sudden thaws the inhabitants are sometimes exposed to terrible disasters. Vaft masses of snow falling from precipices, overwhelm men, cattle, boats, houses, nay even whole villages. About two centuries ago, a whole parish was covered and destroyed by an immense mass of snow; and several domestic utensils, as scythes, knives, and basins, have been at different times brought to light by a rivulet that runs under the snow, which has been gradually hardened and increased by repeated frosts and annual accretions.
The winds that chiefly prevail on the western coast are those that blow from the south; whereas, on the other side of Filefield, the winds that produce and continue the hard frosts are always northerly. In the summer, there is a kind of regular trade-wind on the coast of Bergen. In the forenoon the sea begins to be cooled with a westerly breeze, which continues till midnight. Then the land breeze begins from the east, and blows till about ten in the morning. The coast is likewise subject to sudden squalls and storms. Hurricanes sometimes rise at sea; and in these latitudes the phenomenon called a water-fountain is not uncommon. One of these in the neighbourhood of Ferro is said to have fucked up with the water some tails of herrings, which were afterwards dropped on Kolter, a mountain 1200 feet high.
The fresh-water of Norway is not very light or pure; but on the contrary is generally turbid, and deposits a sediment of adventitious matter, being sometimes impregnated with ochre, and particles of iron. Nevertheless it is agreeable to the taste, and remarkably salubrious; as appears from the good health of the common people, who drink little or no other liquor.
The soil of Norway varies in different places according to the situation of rock or valley. The mountains here, as in every other country, are bare and barren; but the earth walked down from them by the rains enriches and fertilizes the valleys. In these the soil generally consists of black mould, sand, loam, chalk, and gravel, lying over one another in unequal strata, and sometimes in three or four successions; the mould that lies uppermost is very fine and mellow, and fit to nourish all sorts of vegetables. There is also clay found in different parts of this kingdom, of which the inhabitants begin to make earthen ware; but bricks and tiles are not used in building. The face of the country is in many places deformed by large swamps and marshes, very dangerous to the traveller. Near Leefloe in the diocese of Christiansand, a wooden causeway is extended near a mile over a morass; and if a horse or any other animal should make a false step, he will sink at once into the abyss, never to rise again.
In a cold country like Norway, roughened with rocks and mountains, interspersed with bogs, and covered with forests, we cannot expect to find agriculture in perfection. The ploughed lands, in respect to mountains, woods, meadows, and wastes, do not exceed the proportion of 1 to 80; so that the whole country does not produce corn to maintain above half the number of its inhabitants. The peasants are discouraged from the practice of husbandry by the frequency of accidents that seem peculiar to the climate. Even in the fruitful provinces of Gudbrandsdale, Osterdal, and Solør, as well as in other places, when the corn appears in the most flourishing condition, the whole hope of the harvest is sometimes destroyed in one night by a sudden frost that nips the blade and extinguishes the vegetation. The kingdom is moreover visited by some unfavourable years, in which the sun seems to have lost his genial power; the vegetables are flunted; the trees bud and bloom, yet bear no fruit; and the grain, though it rises, will yet produce nothing but empty ears and straw. This calamity, however, rarely occurs; and in general the cultivated parts of Norway yield plentiful crops of excellent rye, barley, and oats. The most fruitful provinces are Nordland, Inderbarre, and Numedal, in the diocese of Drontheim; Sognfjord and Vaas, in that of Bergen; Jeddalen, Ryfylke, Raaabygdelag, and the lordship of Nedenes, in the diocese of Christiansand; Hedemark in the diocese of Aggerhusi; Hadeland, Toten, Romerike, Ringerike, and Gudbrandsdale; these territories not only produce grain enough for their own consumption, but likewise support their neighbours, and even supply part of Sweden. Pease are likewise propagated in this country, together with wheat, buck-wheat, hops, hemp and flax, but not to any considerable advantage. The meadows are well stored with pastureage for sheep and cattle, and the fields are productive of those vegetables which are common in other northern countries. Within these 50 years the people of Norway have bestowed some attention on the culture of gardens, which in former times was so neglected, that the cities and towns were supplied with leeks, cabbage, and roots, from England and Holland. At present, however, the Norwegians raise their own culinary and garden roots and vegetables, which thrive there as well as in any other country. The scurvy being a disease that prevails along the sea-coast, Nature has scattered upon it a variety of herbs efficacious in the cure of that temper; such as angelica, rose-root, gentian, crettes, trefoil, sorrel, scurvy-grass, and a plant called erich's grass, that grows in great plenty on the islands of Northland: from whence the people of the continent fetch away boat-loads of it, to be preserved in barrels as a succedaneum for cabbage. There are also a few noxious vegetables little known in any country but Norway. In Gudbrandsdale is a species of grass called seljung; the root of which is so poisonous, that any beast which eats of it dies immediately, the belly bursting; nay, the carnivorous fowls that prey upon the carcass of the beast meet with the same fate: children have been more than once poisoned by this root, which nevertheless is sometimes used externally as an amulet for arthritic disorders. Another vegetable pernicious to the cattle is the Gramen effragum Norwegicum, which is said to mollify the bones of the cattle which feed upon it. Among the noxious plants of Norway we may also reckon the igle-grass, fatal to sheep and goats; the tour-grass, which affects horses and cows with a sort of lethargy; and the plant torboe, or histle-spring, which produces nearly the same effect on horses, but is not at all prejudicial to cows, sheep, or any ruminating animals. The herb turte, not unlike angelica, operates nearly in the same manner: yet the bears are said to feed upon it with peculiar relish; and when their hair begins to fall off by feeding upon this plant, they cure themselves by eating the flesh of animals.
The common fruit-trees thrive tolerably well in Norway, the inhabitants of which have plenty of cherries, apples, and pears. Some kinds of plums attain maturity; which is seldom the case with grapes, apricots, and peaches. But even the apples and pears that ripen here are summer-fruit; that which grows till the winter seldom coming to perfection. Great variety of agreeable berries are produced in different parts of this kingdom; such as the hagebar, a kind of floes; an infusion of which in wine makes a pleasant cooling liquor; juniper berries, corinths red and white, foeldar or sun-berries, raspberries, gooseberries, blackberries, strawberries, &c. with many other species that seem to be natives of Norway and Sweden. Among those are the trangebar, the produce of the myrtillus repens, red and purple, found in the spring in perfection under the snow, and much relished by the reindeer; crakebeer, resembling bilberries, deemed a powerful antiscorbutic; agerbeer, larger and blacker than bilberries, of a pleasant acid, ripened by cold, and used as cherries for an infusion in wine; and finally tytle-beer, a red pleasant berry growing on a short stem, with leaves like those of box: they are plucked off by handfuls, and sent to Denmark to be preserved for the table, where they are eaten by way of desert.
Of the trees that grow wild in Norway, the principal are the fir and the pine. The first yield an annual revenue of 1,000,000 of rix-dollars, if we include the advantages resulting from the saw-mills and the masts; one of which last has been known to sell for 200 rix-dollars. The red fir-tree, which grows on the mountains, is so rich in turpentine as to be almost incorruptible. Some of the houses belonging to the Norway peasants, built of this timber, are supposed to be above 400 years standing. In Gudbrandsdale the house is still to be seen standing in which king Olaf lodged five nights, above 700 years ago, when he travelled round the kingdom to convert the people to the Christian faith. Even 100 years after the trunk of the fir-tree has been cut down, the peasants burn the roots for tar, which is a very profitable commodity. In the fens, the resin of the fir-tree is by nature transformed into a substance which may be called Norway frankincense. The buds or pine-apples of this tree, boiled in stale beer, make an excellent medicine for the scurvy; less unpleasant to the taste, though as efficacious, as tarragon. The pine-tree is more tall and beautiful than the fir, though inferior to it in strength and quality: for which reason the planks of it are sold at an inferior price, and the peasants waste it without remorse. Norway likewise produces some forests of oak, which is found to be excellent for ship-building. Here also grow plenty of elm-trees; the bark of which, being powdered, is boiled up with other food to fatten hogs, and even mixed by the poor among their meal: also the ash, from which the peasants distil a balsam used in certain... Norway, certain disorders, and which is used both externally and internally. Many other trees flourish in this country, an enumeration of which would prove too tedious. Hazels grow here in such abundance, that 100 tons of the nuts are annually exported from Bergen alone.
A great diversity of stones is found in Norway, some of which are of a surprising figure. Several mountains consist chiefly of a brown pebble, which decays with age; nay, it sometimes dissolves, and drops into the sea, and the cement being thus loosened, a terrible disruption ensues. In some places the grey and black pebbles are intermixed with iron, copper, lead, silver, and gold. The ground in certain districts is covered with the fragments of rocks that have been precipitated from the summits of mountains, and broken by their fall into innumerable shivers. Between 20 and 30 years ago, in the neighbourhood of Bergen, a man was suddenly overwhelmed with such a mass, which formed a kind of vault around him. In this dreadful tomb he remained alive for several weeks. By his loud cries the place of his confinement was discovered; but it was found impossible to remove the huge stones by which he was inclosed. All that his friends could do for him was, to lower down meat and drink through some crevices; but at length the stones fell in, and crushed him to death.
In Norway are inexhaustible quarries of excellent marble, black, white, blue, grey, and variegated; together with some detached pieces of alabaster, several kinds of spar, chalk-stone, cement-stone, sand-stone, mill-stone, baking-stone, slate, talc, magnets; and flint-stone, a production natural to Norway and Sweden, of a brown colour, fetid smell, in texture resembling crystal, and deriving its name from a supposed efficacy in curing a distemper incident to swine. Here also is found the amianthus or stone-flax, of which incombustible cloth may be made. Norway, however, affords no flints, but plenty of pyrites or quartz, beautiful crystals, granites, amethysts, agate, thunderstones, and eagle-stones. Gold has formerly been found in a small quantity in the diocese of Christian-fand, and coined into ducats. There is at present a very considerable silver mine wrought at Kongsberg on the account and at the risk of his Danish majesty: the ore is surprisingly rich, but interrupted in such a manner, that the vein is often lost. Many masses of pure silver have been found; and, among the rest, one piece weighing 560 pounds, preserved in the royal museum at Copenhagen. Such is the richness of these mines, that the annual produce amounts in value to a ton and an half in gold. About 500 people are daily employed, and earn their subsistence, in those stupendous works. Other silver-mines are prosecuted at Jarlsberg, but not to the same advantage; and here the ore is mixed with lead and copper. In many parts of this country copper-mines have been discovered; but the principal, and perhaps the richest in all Europe, is at Roraaas, about 100 English miles from Drontheim. This work yields annually about 1100 ship pounds of pure copper: the founderies belonging to it consume yearly about 14,000 laths of coal, and 500 fathoms of wood. The next in importance is the copper work at Lykken, about 20 miles from Drontheim. A third mine is carried on at Indlet, or Quickne, at the distance of 30 miles from the same place; and here they precipitate the copper from its menstruum, by means of iron. There is a fourth copper-work at Silboe, about 30 miles distant from Drontheim, though the least considerable of the four. Other copper-mines of less note are worked in different parts of the kingdom. Iron is still in greater plenty, and was the first metal wrought in this country. Many hundred thousand quintals are annually exported, chiefly in bars, and part of it in stoves, pots, kettles, and cannon: the national profit arising from this metal is estimated at 300,000 rix dollars. There is a species called moor-iron, found in large lumps among the morasses: of this the peasants make their own domestic tools and utensils, such as knives, scythes, and axes. The lead found mixed in the silver-ore is an article of small importance in Norway; yet some mines of this metal have been lately opened in the district of Soloer by the proprietors of the copper-work at Oudal. A vitriol-work has been begun near Kongfjord: the mines yield great plenty of sulphur; which, however, the Norwegians will not take the trouble to melt and depurate, because immense quantities are found at a cheaper rate in the island of Iceland. Alum is found between the slate flakes near Christians in such plenty, that works have been set up for refining this mineral, though they have not yet brought it to any degree of transparency. His Danish majesty has established salt-works in the peninsula of Valoe, about six English miles from Tonberg, where this mineral is extracted in large quantities from the sea-water.
Besides the animals common to other countries, Norway is said to contain many of the uncommon and dubious kind; such as the kraken, mermaid, sea-serpent, &c. See these articles.
Many Danish, English, Scotch, Dutch, and German families have now settled in Norway; and indeed form no inconsiderable part of the trading people; but the original inhabitants are the descendants of those ferocious Normanni, who harassed almost all the coasts of Europe with piratical armaments in the 8th, 9th, and 10th centuries.
"Our first certain knowledge of the inhabitants of this country (says Pennant†) was from the devastation they brought on the southern nations by their piratical invasions. Their country had before that period the name of Northmanna-land, and the inhabitants
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(a) Mr Coxe tells us, that he visited those mines, but at present yield little more than L. 50,000. The expenses generally exceed the profits; and government gains only by the number of miners employed. The mines of cobalt, and the preparation of Prussian blue, are much more productive. The latter goes through 270 hands, and the number of men employed are 356. It is supposed, that, at this period (1793), it may produce to government a profit of L. 16,000 a-year.
They formerly, he says, produced annually L. 70,000, tants Nortnans; a title which included other adjacent people Great Britain and Ireland were ravaged by them in 845; and they continued their invasion till they effected the conquest of England, under their leader Canute the Great. They went up the Seine as far as Paris, burnt the town, and forced its weak monarch to purchase their absence at the price of fourteen thousand marks. They plundered Spain, and at length carried their excursions through the Mediterranean to Italy, and even into Sicily. They used narrow vessels, like their ancestors the Sitones; and, besides oars, added the improvement of two sails; and victualled them with salted provisions, biscuit, cheese, and beer. Their ships were at first small; but in after times they were large enough to hold 100 or 120 men. But the multitude of vessels was amazing. The fleet of Harold Blaataad consisted of 700. A hundred thousand of these savages have at once sailed from Scandinavia, so justly styled Officina gentium, aut certe velut vagina nationum. Probably necessity, more than ambition, caused them to discharge their country of its exuberant numbers. Multitudes were destroyed; but multitudes remained, and peopled more favourable climates.
"Their king, Olaus, was a convert to Christianity in 994; Bernard an Englishman had the honour of baptizing him, when Olaus happened to touch at one of the Scilly islands. He plundered with great spirit during several years; and in 1036 received the crown of martyrdom from his pagan subjects. But religious zeal first gave the rest of Europe a knowledge of their country and the sweets of its commerce. The Hanse towns poured in their missionaries, and reaped a temporal harvest. By the year 1204, the merchants obtained from the wise prince Suer every encouragement to commerce; and by that means introduced wealth and civilization into this barren kingdom. England by every method cherished the advantages resulting from an intercourse with Norway, and Bergen was the emporium. Henry III. in 1217, entered into a league with its monarch Haquin; by which both princes stipulated for free access for their subjects into their respective kingdoms, free trade, and security to their persons. In 1269, Henry entered into another treaty with Magnus; in which it was agreed, that no goods should be exported from either kingdom except they had been paid for; and there is, besides, a humane provision on both sides, for the security of the persons and effects of the subjects who should suffer shipwreck on their several coasts."
The inhabitants now speak the same language that is used in Denmark, though their original tongue is the dialect now spoken in Iceland. They profess the Lutheran religion, under an archbishop established at Drontheim, with four suffragans; namely, of Bergen, Staffanger, Hammer, and Christiana. By the union of Calmar, the two kingdoms of Norway and Denmark were united under one monarch; and then the people of both nations enjoyed considerable privileges; but the Danish government soon became absolute; and Norway was ruled despotically by a viceroy, who resided in the capital, and presided in the supreme court, to which appeals were made from the subordinate courts of judicature. A great change has, however, taken place since the present amiable and Norway, accomplished prince of Denmark had part of the government, and more may be expected from his virtue and affability when the power shall come wholly into his own hands.
The Norwegians are generally well-formed, tall, sturdy, and robust, brave, hardy, honest, hospitable, and ingenious; yet savage, rash, quarrelsome, and litigious. The same character will nearly suit the inhabitants of every mountainous country in the northern climates. Their women are well-shaped, tall, comely, remarkably fair, and obliging. The nobility of Norway have been chiefly removed by the kings of Denmark, in order to prevent faction and opposition to the court; or are long ago degenerated into the rank of peasants: some families, however, have been lately raised to that dignity. Every freeman in Norway enjoys the right of primogeniture and power of redemption; and it is very usual to see a peasant inhabiting the same house which has been possessed 400 years by his ancestors. The edels radyr, or freehold, cannot be alienated by sale or otherwise from the right heir, called edels-mand: if he is not able to redeem the estate, he declares his incapacity every 10th year at the sessions; and if he, or his heirs to the third generation, should acquire wealth enough for that purpose, the possessor pro tempore must resign his possession.
The mountaineers acquire surprising strength and dexterity by hard living, cold, laborious exercise, climbing rocks, skating on the snow, and handling arms, which they carry from their youth to defend themselves against the wild beasts of the forest. Those who dwell in the maritime parts of Norway exercise the employments of fishing and navigation, and become very expert mariners.
The peasants of Norway never employ any handicraftsmen for necessaries to themselves and families: they are their own hatters, shoemakers, tailors, tanners, weavers, carpenters, smiths, and joiners: they are even expert at ship-building; and some of them make excellent violins. But their general turn is for carving in wood, which they execute in a surprising manner with a common knife of their own forging. They are taught in their youth to wrestle, ride, swim, skate, climb, shoot, and forge iron. Their amusements consist in making verses, blowing the horn, or playing upon a kind of guitar, and the violin: this last kind of music they perform even at funerals. The Norwegians have evinced their valour and fidelity in a thousand different instances. The country was always distracted by intestine quarrels, which raged from generation to generation. Even the farmers stand upon their punctilio, and challenge one another to single combat with their knives. On such occasions they hook themselves together by their belts, and fight until one of them is killed or mortally wounded. At weddings and public feasts they drink to intoxication, quarrel, fight, and murder generally ensues. The very common people are likewise passionate, ambitious of glory and independence, and vain of their pedigree. The nobility and merchants of Norway fare sumptuously; but the peasant lives with the utmost temperance and frugality, except at festivals. Norway. Festivals: His common bread is made of oatmeal, rolled into broad thin cakes, like those used in Scotland. In time of scarcity, they boil, dry, and grind the bark of the fir tree into a kind of flour which they mix with oat-meal: the bark of the elm-tree is used in the same manner. In those parts where a fishery is carried on, they knead the roes of cod with their oat-meal. Of these last, mixed with barley-meal, they make halty-pudding and soup, enriched with a pickled herring or salted mackerel. Fresh fish they have in plenty on the sea-coast. They hunt and eat grouse, partridge, hare, red deer, and rein-deer. They kill cows, sheep, and goats, for their winter stock; these they pickle, or smoke, or dry for use. They make cheese of their milk, and a liquor called syre of their sour whey: this they commonly drink mixed with water; but they provide a store of strong ale for Christmas, weddings, christenings, and other entertainments. From their temperance and exercise, joined to the purity and clarity of their air, they enjoy good health, and often attain to a surprising degree of longevity. Nothing is more common than to see a hearty Norwegian turned of 100. In the year 1733, four couples danced before his Danish majesty at Fredericks-hall: their ages, when joined, exceeded 800 years. Nevertheless, the Norwegians are subject to various disastes; such as the scab, the leprosy, the scurvy, the catarrh, the rheumatism, gout, and epilepsy. The dress of the Norway peasant consists of a wide loose jacket made of coarse cloth, with waistcoat and breeches of the same. Their heads are covered with flapped hats, or caps ornamented with ribbons. They wear shoes without outer soles, and in the winter leatheren buskins. They have likewise snow-shoes and long skates, with which they travel at a great pace, either on the land or ice. There is a corps of soldiers thus accoutred, who can out-march the swiftest horses. The Norwegian peasant never wears a neckcloth, except on extraordinary occasions: he opens his neck and breast to the weather, and lets the snow beat into his bosom. His body is girt round with a broad leather belt, adorned with brafs plates, from which depends a brafs chain that sustains a large knife, gimlet, and other tackle. The women are dressed in close-laced jackets, having leatheren girdles decorated with ornaments of silver. They likewise wear silver chains round their necks, to the ends of which are fixed gilt medals. Their caps and handkerchiefs are almost covered with small plates of silver, brafs, and tin, large rings, and buttons. A maiden bride appears with her hair plaited, and, together with her cloaths, hung full of such jingling trinkets.
The churches, public edifices, and many private houses in Norway, are built of stone: but the people in general live in wooden houses, made of the trunks of fir and pine-tree laid upon each other, and joined by mortises at the corners. These are counted more dry, warm, and healthy, than stone or brick buildings. In the whole diocese of Bergen, one hardly sees a farm-house with a chimney or window: they are generally lighted by a square hole in the top of the house, which lets in the light, and lets out the smoke. In summer this hole is left quite open: in the winter, it is covered with what they call a flue; that is, the membrane of some animal, stretched upon a wooden frame that fits the hole, and transmits the rays of light. It is fixed or removed with a long pole occasionally. Every person that enters the house, upon business or courtship, takes hold of this pole, according to ancient custom. The ceiling is about eight feet high in the middle; and, being arched like a cupola, the smoke of the fire underneath rolls about, until it finds a vent at the hole, which is called linur. Under this opening stands a thick table with benches, and an high seat at the upper end for the master of the family: he has likewise a small cupboard for his own use, in which he locks up his most valuable effects. The boards of the roof are coated with the bark of birch-trees, which is counted incorruptible: this again is covered with turf, which yields a good crop of grass for goats and sheep, and is often mowed as hay by the farmer.
The Norwegians carry on a considerable trade with foreign nations. The duty on the produce of their own country exported, amounts annually to 100,000 rix-dollars. These commodities are, copper wrought and unwrought; iron cast into cannon, stoves, and pots, or forged into bars; lead, in small quantity; masts, timber, deal-boards, planks, marble, millstones, herrings, cod, ling, salmon, lofsters, flounders, cow-hides, goat skins, fowl-skins, the furs of bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, ermines, martens, &c., down, feathers, butter, tallow, train-oil, tar, juniper and other sorts of berries, and nuts; salt, alum, glaas, vitriol, and pot-ashes. All other commodities and articles of luxury the Norwegians import from different nations. The nature of the ground does not admit of much improvement in agriculture: nevertheless, the farmers are not deficient in industry and skill to drain marshes, and render the ground arable and fit for pasture. Many are employed in grazing and breeding cattle: but a much greater number is engaged in felling wood, floating timber, burning charcoal, and extracting tar from the roots of the trees which have been cut down; in the silver, copper, and iron-mines; in the navigation and fishery. A considerable number of people earn a comfortable livelihood by hunting, shooting, and bird-catching. Every individual is at liberty to pursue the game, especially in the mountains and commons: therefore every peasant is expert in the use of fire-arms; and there are excellent marksmen among the mountains, who make use of the bow to kill those animals, whose skins, being valuable, would be damaged by the shot of fire-arms.
Norway can produce above 14,000 excellent seamen. The army of this country amounts to 30,000 effective men; and the annual revenue exceeds 800,000 rix-dollars.
Norway-Rat, in zoology. See Mus.