is a term used by seamen to express a peculiar swell and breaking of the sea upon the shore. It sometimes forms but a single range along the shore, and at other times four behind one another extending perhaps half a mile out to sea. The surf begins to assume its form at some distance from the place where it breaks, gradually accumulating as it moves forward till it gains, not uncommonly, in places within the limits of the trade-winds, a height of 15 or 20 feet, when it overhangs at top, and falls like a cascade with great force and a prodigious noise. Countries where surfs prevail require boats of a particular construction very different from the greater part of those which are built in Europe. In some places surfs are great at high, and in others at low water; but we believe they are uniformly most violent during the spring-tides.
It is not easy to affix the cause of surfs. That they are affected by the winds can hardly be questioned; but that they do not proceed from the immediate operation of the wind in the places where they happen, is evident from this circumstance, that the surf is often highest and most violent where there is least wind, and vice versa. On the coast of Sumatra the highest are experienced during the south-east monsoon, which is never attended with such gales as the north-west. As they are most general in the tropical latitudes, Mr Marfden, who seems to have paid much attention to the subject, attributes them to the trade-winds which prevail at a distance from shore between the parallels of 30 degrees north and south, whose uniform and invariable action causes a long and constant swell, that exists even in the calmed weather, about the line, towards which its direction tends from either side. This swell, when a squall happens or the wind freshens up, will for the time have other subsidiary waves on the extent of its surface, breaking often in a direction contrary to it, and which will again subside as a calm returns, without having produced on it any perceptible effect. Sumatra, though not continually exposed to the south-east trade-wind, is not so distant but that its influence may be presumed to extend to it; and accordingly at Poool-Pelang, near the southern extremity of the island, a constant southerly sea is observed, even after a strong north-west wind. This incessant and powerful swell rolling in from an ocean, open even to the pole, seems an agent adequate to the prodigious effects produced on the coast; whilst its very size contributes to its being overlooked. It reconciles almost all the difficulties which the phenomena seem to present, and in particular it accounts for the decrease of the surf during the north-west monsoon, the local wind then counteracting the operation of the general one; and it is corroborated by an observation, that the surfs on the Sumatran coast ever begin
(a) When the Abyssinian slaves are promoted to any office under the Mogul government, they are called Siddes.