(see the method of performing the operation under the article FULLING, Encyc.) depends, like FELTING, so entirely upon the structure of wool and hair, that the following observations, which are not unimportant, will be intelligible to every reader who has perused that article in this Supplement.
The asperities with which the surface of wool is every where surrounded, and the disposition which it has to assume a progressive motion towards the root, render the spinning of wool, and making it into cloth, difficult operations. In order to spin wool, and afterwards to weave it, we are obliged to cover its fibres with a coating of oil, which, filling the cavities, renders the asperities less sensible; in the same way as oil, when rubbed over the surface of a very fine file, renders it feel less rough. When the piece of cloth is finished, it must be cleansed from this oil; which, besides giving it a disagreeable smell, would cause it to soil whatever it came in contact with, and would prevent its taking the colour which is intended to be given to it by the dyer. To deprive it of the oil, it is carried to the fulling-mill, where it is beat with hammers in a trough full of water, in which some clay has been mixed; the clay combines with the oil, which it separates from the cloth, and both together are washed away by the fresh water which is brought to it by the machine; thus, after a certain time, the oil is entirely washed out of the cloth.
But the scouring of the cloth is not the only object in fulling it; the alternate pressure given by the mallets to the piece of cloth, occasions, especially when the scouring is pretty far advanced, an effect analogous to that which is produced upon hats by the hands of the hatter; the fibres of wool which compose one of the threads, whether of the warp or the woof, assume a progressive movement, introduce themselves among those of the threads nearest to them, into those which follow; and thus, by degrees, all the threads, both of the warp and the woof, become felted together. The cloth, after having, by the above means, become shortened in all its dimensions, partakes both of the nature of cloth and of that of felt; it may be cut without being subject to ravel, and, on that account, we are not obliged to hem the edges of the pieces of which clothes are made.
Lastly, As the threads of the warp and those of the woof are no longer so distinct and separated from each other, the cloth, which has acquired a greater degree of thickness, forms a warmer clothing. Knit worsted also, is by fulling, rendered less apt to run, in case a stitch should drop in it.