the capital of the Dutch settlement at Surinam, is situated on the right side of the beautiful river Surinam, at about 16 or 18 miles distance from its mouth. It is built upon a kind of gravelly rock, which is level with the rest of the country, in the form of an oblong square; its length is about a mile and a half, and its breadth about half as much. All the streets, which are perfectly straight, are lined with orange, shaddock, tamarind, and lemon trees, which appear in everlasting bloom; while, at the same time, their branches are weighed down with the richest clusters of odoriferous fruit. Neither stone nor brick is made use of here for pavement; the whole being one continued gravel, not inferior to the finest garden walks in England, and strewn on the surface with sea shells. The houses, which are mostly of two and some of three stories high, are all built of fine timber, a very few excepted; most of the foundations are of brick, and they are roofed with thin split boards, called shingles, instead of slates or tiles. Windows are very seldom seen in this country, glass being inconvenient on account of the heat; instead of which they use gauze frames; some have only the shutters, which are kept open from six o'clock in the morning until six at night. As for chimneys, there are none in the colony; no fires being lighted except in the kitchens, which are always built at some distance from the dwelling house, where the victuals are dried upon the floor, and the smoke let out by a hole made in the roof; these timber houses are, however, very dear in Surinam, one of them having cost above L. 15,000 sterling. There is no spring water to be met with in Paramaribo; most houses have wells dug in the rock, which afford but a brackish kind of beverage, only used for the negroes, cattle, &c., and the Europeans have reservoirs or cisterns, in which they preserve rain-water for their own consumption; those of nicer taste let it first drop through a filtering stone into large jars or earthen pots, made by the native Indians on purpose, which they barter at Paramaribo for other commodities. The inhabitants of this country, of every denomination, sleep in hammocks, the negro slaves excepted, who mostly lie on the ground; the hammocks used by those in superior stations are made of cotton, ornamented with rich fringe; these are also made by the Indians, and sometimes worth above twenty guineas; neither bedding nor covering is necessary, except an awning to keep off the mosquitoes. Some people indeed lie on bedsteads; in that case they are surrounded, instead of curtains, with gauze pavilions, which admit the air freely, and at the same time keep off the smallest insect. The houses in general at Paramaribo are elegantly furnished with paintings, gilding, crystal chandeliers, china jars, &c.; the rooms are never papered or plastered, but beautifully wainscotted with cedar, and Brazil, and mahogany wood.

The number of buildings in Paramaribo is computed at about 1400, of which the principal is the governor's palace, whence there is a private passage through the garden which communicates with Fort Zeelandia. This house, and that of the commandant, which has lately been burnt, were the only brick buildings in the colony. The town-hall is an elegant new building, and covered with tiles; here the different courts are held, and underneath are the prisons for European delinquents, the military excepted, who are confined in the citadel of Fort Zeelandia. The Protestant church, where divine worship is performed both in French and Low Dutch, has a small spire with a clock; besides which there is a Lutheran chapel, and two elegant Jewish synagogues, one German the other Portuguese. Here is also a large hospital for the garrison, and this mansion is never empty. The military stores are kept in the fortres, where the society soldiers are also lodged in barracks, with proper apartments for some officers. The town of Paramaribo has a noble road for shipping, the river before the town being above a mile in breadth, and containing sometimes above 100 vessels of burden, moored within a pistol-shot of the shore. Before Holland became a province of France, and thereby lost her trade, there were seldom fewer than 80 ships at Paramaribo, loading coffee, sugar, cocoa, cotton, and indigo, for the mother country, including also the Guinea-men that bring slaves from Africa, and the North American and Leeward Island vessels, which bring flour, beef, pork, spirits, herrings, and mackerel salted, spermaceti candles, horses, and lumber; for which they receive chiefly molasses to be distilled into rum. This town is not fortified, but is bounded by the river on the south-east; by a large savannah on the west; by an impenetrable wood on the north-east; and is protected by Fort Zeelandia on the east. This citadel is only separated from the town by a large esplanade, where the troops parade occasionally. The fort is a regular pentagon, with one gate facing Paramaribo, and two bastions which command the river; it is very small but strong, being made of rock or hewn stone, surrounded by a broad fosse well supplied with water, besides some outworks. On the east side, facing the river, is a battery of 21 pieces of cannon. On one of the bastions is a bell, which is struck with a hammer by the sentinel, who is directed by an hour-glass. On the other is planted a large ensign-staff, upon which a flag is hoisted upon the approach of ships of war, or on public rejoicing days. The walls are six feet thick, with embrasures, but no parapet.

Paramaribo is a very lively place, the streets being generally crowded with planters, sailors, soldiers, Jews, Indians, and Negroes, while the river is covered with canoes, barges, &c., constantly passing and repassing like the wherries on the Thames, often accompanied with bands of music; the shipping also in the road adorned with their different flags, guns firing, &c., not to mention the many groups of boys and girls playing in the water, altogether form a pleasing appearance; and such gaiety and variety of objects serve, in some measure, to compensate for the many inconveniences of the climate. Their carriages and dress are truly magnificent; silk embroidery, Genoa velvets, diamonds, gold and silver lace, lace, being daily worn, and even the masters of trading ships appear with buttons and buckles of solid gold. They are equally expensive at their tables, where every thing that can be called delicate is produced at any price, and served up in plate and china of the newest fashion, and most exquisite workmanship. But nothing displays the luxury of the inhabitants of Surinam more than the number of slaves by whom they are attended, often twenty or thirty in one family. White servants are seldom to be met with in this colony.

The current money are stamped cards of different value, from five shillings to fifty pounds; gold and silver is so scarce, that the exchange premium for specie is often above ten per cent. A base Dantzie coin called a bit, value something less than sixpence, is also current in Surinam. English and Portuguese coin are sometimes met with, but mostly used as ornaments by the Mulatto, Samboe, Quadroon, and Negro girls. The Negro slaves never receive any paper money; for as they cannot read, they do not understand its value; besides, in their hands it would be liable to many accidents, from fire or children, and particularly from the rats, when it becomes a little greasy.

This town is well supplied with provisions, viz., butchers meat, fowls, fish, and venison. Vegetables in particular the country abounds with; besides the luxuries peculiar to this climate, they import whatever Europe, Africa, and Asia can afford. Provisions, however, are excessively dear in general, especially those imported, which are mostly sold by the Jews and masters of ships. The first enjoy extraordinary privileges in this colony; the latter erect temporary warehouses for the purpose of trade, during the time their ships are loading with the productions of the climate. Wheat flour is sold from four-pence to one shilling per pound; butter, two shillings; butcher's meat never under one shilling; and often at one shilling and sixpence; ducks and fowls from three to four shillings a couple. A single turkey has sometimes cost one guinea and a half; eggs are sold at the rate of five, and European potatoes twelve, for sixpence. Wine three shillings a bottle. Jamaica rum a crown a gallon. Fish and vegetables are cheap, and fruit almost for nothing.