February part of the stock, with the thickest edge outwards to the Nursery. whole depth of the slope, taking care that the bark of the stock and graft join exactly; when the knife or chisel is removed, each side of the cleft will press on the graft and hold it fast. It must then be bound with a balsam bandage and clayed over as in whip-grafting, leaving three or four of the eyes of the scion uncovered.

If large stocks or branches are to be grafted in this way, they must be cut horizontally and smoothed, and may be cleft quite across, and a graft inserted on each side. More clefts indeed than one may be made, and two grafts put in each. This method of grafting may be performed on the branches or stems of old trees, with a view to produce vigorous branches or change the kind of fruit.

Towards the latter end of May or beginning of June the junction of the graft with the stock will be effectually formed, when the clay may be removed, and in a fortnight afterwards the balsam bandage may also be taken away.

Crown-grafting is commonly practised upon such stocks as are too large to cleave, and is often performed upon the large branches of apple and pear trees, &c., that already bear fruit, when it is intended to change the sorts, or supply the tree with a number of new vigorous branches. It is termed crown-grafting, because, after the stock or branch has been cut over, several grafts are inserted all around between the wood and bark, so as to produce a crown-like appearance; this kind of grafting should not be performed until March or early in April, for then the sap being in motion renders the bark and wood of the stock much easier to be separated for the admission of the graft. The manner of performing this sort of grafting is as follows: first cut off the head of the stock horizontally, and pare the top smooth; then having the grafts, cut one side of each flat, and somewhat sloping, an inch and a half, forming a sort of shoulder at the top of the slope to rest upon the crown of the stock; after the bark of the stock has been raised by means of a wedge, so as to admit the scion between the bark and the wood, let the scion be thrust down to the shoulder with its cut side next the wood of the stock: in this manner three, four, or more grafts may be inserted into one stock or branch. After the grafts have been inserted, let them be tied tight, and let the clay be applied so as to rise an inch above the top of the stock, taking care to form it so as to prevent the admission of water, which would injure the grafts. Crown-grafting may also be performed by making several clefts in the crown of the stock, and inserting the grafts into the clefts. The grafts will be pretty well united with the stock by the end of May or beginning of June, when the clay and bandage may be taken away. The trees grafted by this method will succeed very well; but for the first two or three years the grafts are liable to be blown out of the stock by violent winds, to prevent which, long sticks must be tied to the stock or branch, to which they may be fixed.

Cheek-grafting is thus executed. Cut the head of the stock off horizontally, and pare the top smooth; then cut one side sloping an inch and a half or two inches deep, and cut the lower part of the graft sloping the same length, making a sort of shoulder at the top of the sloped part; it is then to be placed upon the flopped part of the stock, resting the shoulder upon the crown of it; bind it with balsam, and finish it with a covering of clay as in whip-grafting.

Side-grafting is done by inserting grafts into the sides of the branches without cutting them over, and may be practised upon trees to fill up any vacancy, or for the purpose of variety, to have several sorts of apples, pears, plums, &c., upon the same tree. It is performed thus: Fix upon such parts of the branches where wood is wanted to furnish the head or part of the tree; there slop off the bark and a little of the wood, and cut the lower end of the grafts to fit the part as near as possible, then join them to the branch and tie them with balsam and clay them over.

Root-grafting. This is done by whip-grafting scions Root-grafting upon pieces of the root of any tree of the same genus, and planting the root where it is to remain; it will take root, draw nourishment, and feed the graft.

Grafting by approach, or inarching, is preferred when Inarching the stocks designed to be grafted, and the tree from which the graft is intended to be taken, either grow too near, or can be placed too near together, that the branch or graft may be made to approach the stock, without separating it from the tree till after its union or junction with the stock, so that the branch or graft being bent to the stock they together form a sort of arch, whence it is called grafting by approach or inarching. It is commonly practised upon such trees as are with difficulty made to succeed by any of the former ways of grafting. When intended to propagate any kind of tree or shrub by this method of grafting; if the tree be hardy enough to grow in the open ground, a proper quantity of young plants for stocks must be set round it, and when grown of a proper height, the work of inarching must be performed; if the branches of the tree you intend to take grafts from be too high for the stocks, in that case the stocks planted in pots must be placed on a slight stage or some support of that nature, of such a height as to make them reach the branches. Inarching is sometimes performed with the head of the stock cut off, sometimes it is allowed to remain; when the head of the stock is cut off, the work is more easily performed, and is generally more successful, because the stock having no top of its own to support, will transmit all the nourishment taken up by its roots into the graft; when the stocks are properly placed, make the branches approach to them, and mark on the branches the places where they will most easily join to the stock, and in those parts of each branch, pare away the bark and part of the wood two or three inches in length, and in the same manner pare the stock at the proper place; then make a slit upwards in the branch so as to form a sort of tongue, and make a slit downwards in the stock to admit it; let the parts be then joined, flopping the tongue of the graft into the slit of the stock so as to make the whole join in an exact manner; then tie them close together with balsam, and afterwards cover the whole with a proper quantity of clay, as before directed in the other methods. After this, let a stout flake be fixed for the support of each graft, to which the stock and graft may be fixed, to prevent their being disjoined by the wind. If this operation be performed in spring, the graft and stock will be united in four months, when the branch may be separated from the parent plant; this should be done cautiously and with a sharp knife, lest the graft should... be shaken and loosened from the stock. If the head of the stock were not removed previous to inarching, it should now be cut off close to the insertion of the graft, and all the old clay and bandages should be taken away and replaced with new, which should be allowed to remain a few weeks longer. If the graft and stock do not seem perfectly united the first autumn after they have been inarched, they should be allowed to stand till next autumn; for were the branch to be cut off from the parent plant before a complete union was formed between it and the stock, the operation would prove abortive.

An anonymous author has given, in a treatise published at Hamburg under the title *Amoenitates Hortenles Novae*, a new method of grafting trees, so as to have very beautiful pyramids of fruit upon them, which will exceed in flavour, beauty, and quantity, all that can otherwise be produced. This he says he had long experienced, and gives the following method of doing it. The trees are to be transplanted in autumn, and all their branches cut off early in the following summer the young shoots are to be pulled off, and the buds are then to be engrafted into them in an inverted position. This he says, not only adds to the beauty of the pyramids, but also makes the branches more fruitful. These are to be closely connected to the trunk, and are to be fastened with the common ligature; they are to be placed circularly round the tree, three buds in each circle, and these circles at six inches distance from each other. The old trees may be grafted in this manner, the success having been found very good in those of twenty years standing; but the most eligible trees are those which are young, vigorous, and full of juice, and are not above an inch or two thick. When these young trees are transplanted, they must be fenced round with poles to defend them from the violence of the wind. The buds engrafted must be small, that the wounds made in the bark to receive them, not being very large, may heal the sooner; and if the buds do not succeed, which will be perceived in a fortnight, there must be others put in their place. The wound made to receive these buds must be a straight cut, parallel to the horizon, and the piece of bark taken out, must be downwards that the rain may not get in at the wound. In the autumn of the same year this will be a green flourishing pyramid, and the next summer it will flower, and ripen its fruit in autumn.

Mr Fairman, of Kent, gives an account of a method of renewing decayed trees, by what he calls extreme branch-grafting, which has been published in the Memoirs of the Society of Arts for 1802. It is addressed to the Secretary.

"Sir,

From much conversation with Mr Bucknall, on the idea of improving standard fruit trees, we could not but remark that in apple orchards, even in such as are most valuable, some were to be seen that were stunted and barren, which not only occasioned a loss in the production, but made a break in the rows, and spoiled the beauty and uniformity of the plantation.

"To bring these trees into an equal state of bearing, size, and appearance, in a short time, is an object of the greatest importance in the system of orcharding, and also for the recovery of old barren trees, which are fallen into decay, not so much from age as from the forts of their fruits being of the worn out, and deemed nearly loft, varieties.

Having long entertained these thoughts, and been by no means inattentive to the accomplishment of the design, I attempted to change their fruits by a new mode of engrafting, and am bold enough to assert that I have most fortunately succeeded in my experiments; working, if I am to be allowed to say it, from the errors of other practitioners, as also from those of my own habits.

My name having several times appeared in the Transactions of the Society for the encouragement of Arts, &c.; and having the honour of being a member of that Society, I thought no pains or expense would be too much for the completion of so desirable an improvement. Under these impressions, and having many trees of this description, I made an experiment on three of them in March 1798, each being nearly a hundred years old. They were not decayed in their bodies, and but little in their branches. Two of these were golden pippins, and the other was a golden rennet; each had likewise been past a bearing state for several years. I also followed up the practice on many more the succeeding spring, and that of the last year, to the number of forty at least, in my different plantations (c).

The attempt has gone so far beyond my utmost expectation, that I beg of you, Sir, to introduce the system to the society for their approbation; and I hope it will deserve the honour of a place in their valuable Transactions.

I directed the process to be conducted as follows: cut out all the spray wood, and make the tree a perfect skeleton, leaving all the healthy limbs; then clean the branches, and cut the top of each branch off, where it would measure from an inch to two inches in diameter. Some of the branches must of course be taken off, where it is a little larger, and some smaller, to preserve a head or canopy of the tree; and it will be necessary to take out the branches which cross others, and obviate the arms are left to fork off; so that no considerable opening is to be perceived when you stand under the tree, but that they may represent a uniform head. I must here remark to the practitioner, when he is preparing the tree as I directed, that he should leave the branches sufficiently long to allow of two or three inches to be taken off by the saw, that all the splintered parts may be removed.

The trees being thus prepared, put in one or two grafts at the extremity of each branch; and from this circumstance I wish to have the method called extreme branch grafting. A cement, hereafter described, must be used instead of clay, and the grafts tied with bals or soft string. As there was a considerable quantity of moss on the bodies and branches of the trees, I ordered my gardener to scrape it off, which is effectually done when they are wet, by a stubbed birch broom. I then ordered

(c) The average expense I calculated at 2s. 6d. each tree. ordered him to brush them over with coarse oil, which invigorated the growth of the tree, acted as a manure to the bark, and made it expand very evidently; the old cracks were soon, by this operation, rendered invisible.

"All wounds should be perfectly cleaned out, and the medication applied, as described in the Orchardift, p. 14. By the beginning of July the bandages were cut, and the shoots from the grafts shortened, to prevent them from blowing out. I must here, too, observe, that all the shoots, or suckers from the tree, must enjoy the full liberty of growth till the succeeding spring, when the greater part must be taken out, and few but the grafts suffered to remain, except on a branch where the grafts have not taken; in that case leave one or two of the suckers, which will take a graft the second year, and make good the deficiency. This was the whole of the process (D).

"By observing what is here stated, it will appear that the tree remains nearly as large when the operation is finished, as it was before the boughs began; and this is a most essential circumstance, as no part of the former vegetation is lost, which is in health fit to continue for forming the new tree. It is worthy of notice, that when the vivifying rays of the sun have caused the sap to flow, these grafts, inducing the fluid through the pores to every part of the tree, will occasion innumerable suckers or scions to start through the bark, which, together with the grafts, give such energy to vegetation, that, in the course of the summer, the tree will be actually covered over by a thick foliage, which enforces and quickens the due circulation of sap. These, when combined, fully compel the roots to work for the general benefit of the tree.

"In these experiments, I judged it proper to make choice of grafts from the fruits of fruits which were the most luxuriant in their growth, or any new variety, as described in the 17th and 18th volumes of the Society's Transactions, by which means a greater vigour was excited; and if this observation is attended to, the practitioner will clearly perceive, from the first year's growth, that the grafts would soon starve the suckers which shoot forth below them, if they were suffered to remain. With a view to accomplish this grand object of improvement, I gave much attention, as I have observed before, to the general practice of invigorating old trees; and I happily discovered the error of the common mode of grafting but a short distance from the trunk or body. There the circumference of the wounds is as large as to require several grafts, which cannot firmly unite and clasp over the thumps, and consequently these wounds lay a foundation for after decay. If that were not the case, yet it so reduces the size of the tree, that it could not recover its former state in many years, and it is dubious if it ever would; whereas, by the method of extreme grafting, the tree will be larger in three or four years, than before the operation was performed. For all the large branches remaining, the tree has nothing to make but fruit-bearing wood; and from the very beautiful verdure it soon acquires, and the symmetry of the tree, no argument is necessary to enforce the practice. Some of the trees, done in this way, yielded each two bushels of apples from the third year's wood.

Cement for Engrafting.

One pound of pitch, One pound of rosin, Half a pound of beeswax, A quarter of a pound of hog's lard, A quarter of a pound of turpentine; to be boiled up together, but not to be used till you can bear your finger in it."

Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.

The same care of the greenhouse is required during this month which was recommended in January. If severe frost, or very wet weather prevails, the glasses must be kept close during the day to exclude the frost and damp, or flight fires may be had recourse to for this purpose.

In mild weather the glasses must be opened during the day to admit air, and water must be given to the plants regularly, though sparingly. Towards the end of the month it will be proper to remove a little of the earth from the surface and sides of the boxes or pots, and to replace it with some fresh compost. If any of the orange trees, myrtles, or plants of that nature, have irregular heads, they may be cut so as to cause them to throw out a number of new branches to fill up any vacant places, or form an entirely new head. If they require to be much pruned, or to be cut over altogether, it would be proper to shift them at the same time, i.e., to remove them from the box or pot in which they have stood with the ball of earth about their roots, part of which, together with any matted roots, should be pared off from the sides and bottom, and replaced in the boxes and pots, with a proper addition of fresh earth. Any of the plants which are to undergo this operation, that are very sickly, should have almost the whole of the earth removed from their roots, and ought, for some time after shifting, to stand in a bark-bed.

If the bark-bed in the pine stove received no fresh tan or turning last month, it should be examined as early as convenient; and if the heat should have at all declined, it ought immediately to be turned or have an addition of fresh tan, as directed last month. See January.

If a lively heat be not kept up in the bark bed now, when the plants show flower, the size of the future fruit will be considerably affected. A proper degree of warmth, applied to the roots of the plants, will make them grow vigorously and produce large fruit. The heat of the air of the house must be kept at a proper temperature, by due attention to the fires every night and morning, and even during the day in frothy weather, or when cold winds prevail. The bark bed, in which the succulent pine-apple plants grow, should be examined; and if the heat in it begins to decline, it ought

(D) The system succeeds equally well on pear, as also on cherry trees, provided the medication is used to prevent the cherry tree from gumming. ought to be turned or receive an addition of fresh tan. When the sun shines bright, and the weather is moderate, air must be given by opening some of the glases. Water should be given regularly both to the pine apple and other plants in the hot-house, but much should not be given at a time.

The kidney beans that were sown last month should receive water frequently. If none were sown last month, some of the early dwarf kinds may be sown now.

If no cucumbers were sown last month in the hot-house, some may be sown now; or, plants raised in hot-beds may be introduced, and placed in any convenient situation near the glases.

MARCH.

Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.

We need not here give a detailed account of the methods of performing many of the things mentioned under this head, in the two preceding months, though most of them might be performed now with better prospect of success, as this is the principal month in the year for sowing and planting full crops of the greater part of kitchen-garden vegetables. We shall, therefore, merely enumerate them. Make hot-beds. Sow cucumbers and melons. Transplant and sow cauliflower. Transplant and sow cabbage. Transplant and sow lettuce. Sow spinach, onions, leeks, radishes, carrots, parsnips, beets, beans, peas, turnips, celery, small salad, parsley, fennel, and Hamburg parsley. Plant thistle, garlic, scorzonera, and rockambole.

Some seed of the early purple and cauliflower broccoli should be sown, both about the beginning and towards the end of the month, in a bed of rich earth, in an open situation, to raise plants to be fit for the table the following autumn. For the subsequent management, see April, May, June, and July.

The seeds of the sea cabbage (Crambe maritima) may be sown any time this month, in narrow beds of light earth, about four feet wide, for the convenience of weeding. They may either be sown all over the surface of the bed, tolerably thick, when they are to be transplanted, or in drills a foot and a half or two feet apart, where they are to remain. Those plants are perennial, and every year push up thick succulent shoots. They should be covered, some time during the course of the winter, with dry earth, to the depth of a few inches, by which the young shoots, as they come up in spring, are blanched and become fit for use. They should be cut as soon as they appear above ground, or very soon after, in the manner of asparagus.

Sow brown and green cole, or bore cole.

Any time in the course of the month some seeds of brown and green cole (kale) may be sown in an open situation, for when they are shaded they are apt to grow up tall and weak. The plants raised now will be fit for planting out in summer, and may be cut for use any time from autumn to spring.

About the beginning of this month asparagus seed may be sown in narrow beds of good earth in an open situation. The seed may be scattered regularly all over the surface of the bed, raked in, and then receive a slight covering of earth from the alleys, or in drills, about an inch deep, at the distance of six inches from one another. The plants will appear above ground in March or five weeks, when they ought to be kept clear of weeds, and watered occasionally during dry weather. The plants raised now will be fit for transplanting next spring into beds, where they are to remain and produce crops, or into plots, to remain for a year or two till they be fit for forcing.

This is a proper season for making plantations of asparagus, for which purpose young plants of one or two years old are commonly used. They succeed best in a deep light soil, and in an exposed situation. The ground should be well manured, dug to the depth of 12 or 15 inches, and divided into beds of the breadth of four feet and a half, in which the asparagus may be planted in rows, 10 or 12 inches apart, and about the same distance from each other in the rows. The usual mode of planting them is to stretch a garden line along the bed, and to form a drill with a spade, to the depth of about six inches, in which the asparagus roots are placed with their crowns or buds uppermost.

A crop of onions may be sown in beds when it is an object to make the most of the ground.

The surface of asparagus beds should be loosened or dressed, turned over with a fork, in the course of this month. The instrument commonly made use of for this purpose, is a fork with three flat blunt prongs. Care must be taken not to dig too deep, lest the tops of the asparagus roots should receive injury. Immediately after the surfaces of the beds have been loosened, they should be raked over; for if the raking were to be deferred for some time till the buds of the asparagus approach the surface of the ground, they might be broken by the teeth of the rake. Asparagus beds will continue to produce good crops for 10 or 12 years, if properly managed. They ought not to be cut till the third or fourth year after they have been planted in rich soils; however, a few of the strongest shoots may be cut even in the second, but it should be done sparingly. When asparagus has advanced to the height of three or four inches above ground, it should be collected for the table; but as the shoots are commonly cut about three inches under the surface of the ground, care must be taken not to injure the rising buds (for several buds rise in succession from the same root), for this reason, it is commonly cut with an instrument made on purpose, called an asparagus knife, which should be introduced close by the shoot to the requisite depth, and directed so as to cut it off obliquely.

Artichoke plants, that were earthed up during winter to protect them from frost, should now be exaderted, mined; and if their stems appear to push up vigorously, and the earth ought to be removed and levelled. The foil should likewise be loosened from the plants, and if many shoots proceed from the same root, they should all be taken away except three of the strongest. The redundant shoots, if carefully detached from the main roots, may be employed to form new plantations; the earth, therefore, should be so far removed as to allow the hand to be introduced to slip them close to their insertion.

Plantations of young artichokes are made towards the end of this or in the course of next month, as soon, indeed, as the offsets (the only way in which this plant is propagated) can be procured. For this purpose choose a plot of good ground, dig in a good quantity of March. of rotten dung, and plant the offsets with a dibble after their tops and roots have been trimmed a little (if it appear necessary), in rows about four feet and a half asunder, and at the distance of from two to three feet in the rows. A crop of spinach, lettuce, radishes, &c., may be got from the ground the first year, without injuring the artichokes. This plantation will produce heads in September and October, and will continue to produce plentiful crops for five or seven years. Whenever artichokes are required late in the season, young plantations ought to be formed every year, as it is from them alone that heads may be expected late in autumn; for the old plantations generally produce them in June, July, and August. There are two sorts, the large globe, and the French or green oval artichoke; the former is commonly preferred, on account of the size of the head and the quantity of eatable matter they afford.

Pot-herbs propagated.

Sow skirrets.

Kidney beans, and carrots.

Jerusalem artichokes.

March. Kitchen Garden.

Much in the same manner to the depth of about four inches, in rows three feet apart, and about half that distance from each other in the row. They are fit for the table in October, and continue good all winter and spring.

A full crop of potatoes may be planted any time towards the end of this or in the course of next month. Cuttings of moderate-sized potatoes (of the variety intended to be planted), each containing one or two eyes at least, may be put in with a blunt dibble, to the depth of about four inches, in rows two feet apart, and at the distance of about a foot from each other in the row, or in trenches or holes made with the spade. In the fields they are planted either with the dibble or in furrows made by the plough. See Agriculture. They succeed best in light soil, which should be well manured. After they have come above ground, they ought to be kept clear of weeds, and have a quantity of earth drawn up about their stems. There are many varieties of this vegetable, which are obtained from seed; the principal are, early dwarf, champion, large round white, oblong red and white kidney, common kidney, small white kidney, round red, large round dark red, &c.

Any time in the course of this month new plantations of mint may be formed. This plant is propagated by parting the roots or by cuttings of the young stalks; the former is practised this month, the latter in next and following month. Procure a quantity of the roots from an old plantation of mint; part and plant them in rows six inches asunder, and about the same distance from each other in the row, either with the dibble, or in drills about an inch deep, drawn by the hoe. These plants succeed very well in any soil, but prefer a moist one. The kinds commonly cultivated are spearmint, peppermint, orange-mint, &c.

The leaves and flowers of Indian cresses are frequently used in salads, and their seeds for pickling. The cresses, seeds may be sown about the beginning of the month, at the distance of two or three inches from each other, in drills, about an inch deep. If they are not sown alongside of a hedge or other support, they may have sticks placed beside them like peas after they have come above ground. There are two kinds, the large, and dwarf; the former is generally preferred.

Seeds of basil, love apple (or tomatoe), and capicum, may be sown any time this month. They are tender annuals, and must be sown in a hot-bed, to be afterwards planted out in the open ground in May; they must be managed like other tender annuals. See Flower Garden. Basil is used in soups and salads, and must be sown in very dry earth, otherwise the seeds will rot. Love apples are used in soups and for pickling. The capicum, of which there is great variety, is used as a pickle, and for seasoning. The principal kinds are the long-podded, heart-shaped, bell-shaped, angular-podded, round short-podded, cherry-shaped, &c.

Sow cucumbers and melons, to be planted out under hand or bell-glasses.

Some cucumber and melon seed may be sown towards the end of this month, in any of the beds already employed; or one may be formed on purpose to raise plants to be reared under bell or hand-glasses. Those sown now will be fit for ridging out in the beginning of May. See May.

Vol. IX. Part II. Sect. II. Fruit Garden.

All kinds of fruit trees mentioned under this head last month may be pruned now, though it ought to be performed as near the beginning of the month as possible; for if the weather has been mild during the preceding month, many of the trees will have advanced too far to be in a state proper for pruning. Figs, however, on account of the late period at which they begin to push, may be safely pruned; indeed this is the best season for pruning them.

Fruit trees may still be planted, though the earlier in the month the better; for if mild weather prevails, the buds of the trees will have advanced so far before the end of the month, as to render transplanting less safe. For the method, see October. The duration of the planting season depends more on the mildness and severity of the weather than the time of the year.

When apricot, nectarine, and peach trees are in flower, they should be protected during frosts with large garden-mats fixed to the top of the walls by hooks, and fastened at the bottom to prevent them from being agitated by the wind so as to dash off the blossoms. These mats must be removed during the mildest part of the day, unless when the weather is very severe, and without sunshine. Instead of mats, old fish-nets doubled may be used for this purpose, and need not be removed during the day; a number of small branches of evergreens (well clad with leaves) fixed among the branches of the trees in flower, will also afford shelter to the blossom and setting fruit.

Dreys strawberry beds, if not done last month. See February.

Fruit trees on hot walls, in peach, cherry, and vine-houses, must be duly attended to, must receive air and water regularly, and have the fires put on every evening and cold morning.

Sect. III. Flower Garden and Pleasure Ground.

If any early annuals, such as balsams, cockscombs, &c., were sown last month, they will be fit for planting out into small pots or a hot-bed prepared for the purpose. This hot-bed should be raised to the height of two feet; and when the violent heat has subsided, covered over to the depth of six inches with rich dry earth. The plants may be put in at the distance of three or four inches from one another, or rather in small pots, because from these they can be more easily removed into larger ones at a subsequent period. Due attention must be paid to give them water and air when requisite; and linings of fresh dung must be applied to the bed whenever the heat begins to decline. If properly taken care of, they will be fit for final transplantation in May or June.

If no tender annuals were sown in February, some may be sown any time this month.

Sow less tender or half-hardy annuals, such as China aster, Indian pink, capsicum, French and African marigold, chrysanthemum, tree and purple amaranthus, and Chinese hollyhocks.

Form a slight hot-bed any time this month, which need not be raised higher than two feet, and earth it over to the depth of about six inches. The seed may be sown in narrow drills, at the distance of two or three inches from one another, and each kind separately or in pots, plunged in the earth of the bed. After the plants have come up, they will require plenty of free air and moderate watering; and when they have acquired the height of two or three inches, they must be gradually hardened to bear the open air, by taking the lights entirely off in mild warm days. Instead of hotbed frames and lights, oil-paper frames, or hand-glasses, may be made use of. The plants raised now will be fit for transplanting into the flower border in May. If hardy annuals were not sown last month, they may be sown any time during the present.

Cuttings of double chrysanthemums which were planted last autumn in pots or boxes, should be planted out into pots or flower borders if mild weather prevails. Auricula plants in pots should be protected from rain and frost, and should still be kept covered with hoop arches, over which mats may be occasionally thrown, for should they be exposed to much rain or severe weather now when their flower-stalks begin to advance, the future bloom might be injured. Keep the pots clear of weeds, and give them a little water in dry weather, or expose them to a gentle shower. If the pots received no fresh earth last month, let them receive some now.

Let the hoops mentioned the two preceding months still continue over the beds of tulips, hyacinths, ranunculus, &c., for if severe weather occurs, the beds must be protected by a covering of mats, as already mentioned. See January. When the stalks of hyacinths, particularly double ones, have advanced almost to their full height, they are apt to be borne down by the weight of their own flowers, therefore a neat small stick ought to be fixed in the ground close to every plant, to which the flowerstalks should be fastened by a piece of bals or other soft ligature.

Ranunculuses and anemones may still be planted; they will succeed the early ones, and flower in June and July.

Towards the end of the month, seeds of biennial and perennial flowers may be sown, such as carnations, nials, &c., pinks, sweetwilliams, wallflowers, and stock. July flowers of all sorts, also rose campion, catchfly, scarlet lychnis, cumbines, Greek valerian, polyanthus, auriculas, scabiouses, and Canterbury bells; likewise hollyhocks, French honeyfuckles, rockets, honesty or satin flower, tree primrose, shrubby mallow, broad-leaved campanula, foxglove, snapdragon or frogmouth, &c.

Biennial and perennial plants may likewise be transplanted at this season.

Trees and shrubs, both deciduous and evergreen, may still be planted; but that work should be finished before the end of the month.

Sect. IV. Nursery.

Fruit trees, elms, &c., may be engrafted; and the shoots of trees engrafted last year should be shortened and treated about the time their buds begin to swell, as to leave four or five buds, which will push out branches to form the head. The shoots of last year's growth of trees budded the preceding summer should likewise be shortened, and the heads of trees budded last summer should be cut off about four inches above the bud, which will cause cause it to push out vigorously. The part of the stock which is left will serve as a support, to which the young branch may be fixed in the course of the summer to prevent it from being blown out by the wind.

Seeds of hardy trees and shrubs may be sown any time this month, in beds three or four feet wide, which should be well dug, and thoroughly pulverized. The seed may be sown either regularly over the surface of the bed or in drills, and covered in proportion to their size; the acorns and other large seeds to the depth of from an inch and a half to two inches, and the smaller ones from about half an inch to an inch. Some of the more delicate shrubs, such as the arbutus, &c., may be sown in pots or boxes, by which means they will be more easily protected from the severity of the weather in winter.

Most kind of trees and shrubs may be propagated by cuttings this month, particularly vines.

The vine cuttings must be shoots of last year's growth, about ten or twelve inches long, and each furnished with three buds. If cut from the vines during the winter, before the sap begins to rise, and preserved in dry earth, they will succeed the better. Some leave about an inch of the former year's wood attached to each cutting, but this is unnecessary. They may be planted in rows a foot and a half allunder, and at the distance of eight or ten inches from each other in rows, and so deep as to leave only their uppermost bud above ground; they should afterwards be occasionally watered, and kept clear of weeds. Though cuttings of vines may be raised in the open air, much better plants may be obtained by striking them in a hot-bed or tan-pit in a hot-house. At pruning season select some well-ripened shoots, cut them into pieces of a convenient length, and insert them a little way into pots filled with dry earth, where they may remain till wanted for planting. Protect them in severe, but in mild weather, expose them to the free air.

About the beginning of this month, if there is no room in the hot-beds already made, prepare one on purpose, which may be formed and earthened over exactly like a feed-bed for melons. See January. Fill a number of pots, about four inches deep, corresponding to the cuttings you mean to plant, with light rich earth. Take the cuttings you have preserved during the winter; select the roundest and fullest buds; cut the branch about a quarter of an inch above, and about three inches below the bud, with a sharp knife, so as to make a smooth cut, and insert each close by the side of the pot, so deep, that the bud may be covered about a quarter of an inch by the earth of the pot; for it is alleged, that a cutting strikes with greater freedom when placed close to the side than in the middle of the pot. When plants are raised in this manner from a single bud, they seem as if reared from seed. As soon as the cuttings are planted, plunge the pots into the earth of the bed, give them a gentle watering, and put on the glasses. Attention must be paid to the bed, to see that the heat be not too strong, for a moderate bottom heat is all that is necessary. Air should be freely admitted during the day, and even during the night, in mild weather; but when the weather is cold, the beds should be covered with mats during the night, to protect them from frost. The cuttings should likewise be shaded when the sun shines very bright, with mats, and should receive occasional watering. When the plants are about six or eight inches high, they will require to be shifted into larger pots, which must be done cautiously for fear of injuring their roots. Take pots of about six inches deep, and about the same width; put a little good earth into the bottom of each, and turn the cutting out of the small pot into it with the ball of earth as entire as possible, and fill it up with earth. The frames of the beds should be raised in proportion as the plants increase in height, and the heat of the bed renewed by linings of fresh dung when on the decline. Support the shoots when they are about ten or twelve inches high, and pinch off the tendrils and lateral shoots as soon as they appear. They will be fit for planting out in the end of June or beginning of July.

When dry weather prevails, give gentle waterings to feeding trees and shrubs, and keep them free from feedings, weeds.

Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.

The plants in the green-house should receive air to be freely, unless during wet or frothy weather, and more freely and frequent and plentiful waterings than in the two former months. Dead branches or decayed leaves should be removed, and any of the larger leaved plants that appear foul should have their leaves cleaned with a wet sponge. Those also which require shifting or pruning may be managed as directed last month. Sow seeds and plant cuttings of green-house plants; for which purpose a hot-bed or tan-pit of a hot-house will be necessary at this season.

Fine apple plants will require a good deal of warmth, particularly in the tan-pit; as their fruit will now be of pine considerably advanced, they must therefore be kept in a vigorous state of growth, to secure large fruit. If the heat of the tan-bed be not very great, at least one-third of new tan ought to be added. After the tan has been procured, it ought to be spread out and dried a little, and then laid up in a heap, in some shade adjacent to the hot-house, till it begin to ferment. The plants should then be taken from the tan-bed, and a quantity of the decayed tan removed from its surface and sides, to make room for the new, which must be thoroughly mixed with the old; and, as this operation ought to be completed in the course of one day, a sufficient number of hands should be employed to effect it. Both pine apples and other plants in the hot-house should be regularly watered, and have fresh air admitted in bright calm days, from about two hours before till two or three after noon.

April.

Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.

If the heat begin to decline in the cucumber and melon beds, they should receive linings as directed in the former months; for these plants will not yield fine cumber fruit, or a plentiful crop, if the beds are destitute of proper heat. Air must be admitted every day, and a moderate watering given every four or five days, particularly to cucumbers; but melons should receive it sparingly, especially when their fruits are setting, as much water at that time would prove injurious, and make the fruit drop off. Keep the plants clear of all decayed leaves. leaves and decayed male flowers. When the sun shines too bright as to cause the leaves of cucumbers and melons to flag, it will be proper to shade them for two or three hours, during its greatest heat, with a thin mat or a little loose hay, strewed thinly over the glases.

Make hot-beds on which to ridge out cucumbers or melons under hand glases or oiled paper frames. See May.

Sow some cabbage, Cilicia, imperial, and large admirable cabbage lettuces any time this month; indeed, some ought to be sown about the beginning, middle, and towards the end of the month, to secure a regular succession. Should the lettuces that were sown last month or in February stand too thick, they may be thinned out and transplanted at the distance of about ten inches from each other, and watered occasionally till they take root.

Some early kidney beans, viz. the Battersea, speckled, dun-coloured, and Canterbury dwarfs, may be planted towards the end of the month, in a well-sheltered situation, exposed to the south, in drills two feet or two feet and a half asunder, and about two inches from each other in the drills. The tall running kinds should not be planted till next month.

Some of the cabbage and savoy plants, which were sown in February and March, should be thinned and transplanted, when their leaves are about two inches broad, into beds, to gain strength before their final transplantation; and those which have stood the winter may be planted out for good.

Cauliflower plants under bell or hand glases should have some earth drawn up about their stems, and should be exposed to the open air during the day in good weather. Those sown last month should be planted out into beds in the open air, or into slight hot-beds, to forward their growth. Some of the strongest of the plants raised in the early part of spring may be planted out at the end of the month, at the distance of two or two feet and a half each way from one another, and should be occasionally watered till they are well rooted.

Young plants of broccoli, which were sown last month, may be planted out at the distance of two or three inches from one another, to acquire strength for final transplantation; and some seed of the early purple, late purple, and cauliflower broccoli, may be sown to raise plants for transplanting in June. Some plants of last year's sowing, which produced heads this spring, should be allowed to remain for seed, which will ripen in August.

Sect. II. Fruit Garden.

In late seasons, pear, plum, and cherry trees may still be planted, and even apricot, peach, and nectarine; but it should be done as early in the month as possible, for if any of these have advanced much in growth before they are transplanted, they will not push freely in the course of the summer, and will be liable to be injured by drought. Where pruning has been neglected, it may still be done, but the sooner the better, for many fruit trees will now be in flower.

Fruit trees in flower should still be protected in cold weather. See March. All ill-placed shoots should be rubbed off, and the young fruit on apricot trees where set too thick should be thinned.

Look over the vines trained on walls about the end of the month, and rub off the young shoots which proceed from the old wood, unless they happen to be situated where a supply of young wood is wanted; likewise where two shoots proceed from the same eye on branches of last year's growth, let the weakest be rubbed off. Stakes should be placed beside the vines in the vineyard, to which they should be tied, and the ground between the rows should be kept perfectly free from weeds.

The vine was introduced by the Romans into Britain, and appears formerly to have been very common. From the name of vineyard yet adhering to the ruinous sites of our castles and monasteries there seem to have been few in the country but what had a vineyard. The county of Gloucester is particularly commended by Malmesbury in the twelfth century, as excelling all the rest of the kingdom in the number and goodness of its vineyards. In the earlier periods of our history the Isle of Ely was expressly denominated the Isle of Vines by the Normans. Vineyards are frequently noticed in the descriptive accounts of Doomsday; and those of England are even mentioned by Bede as early as the commencement of the eighth century.

Doomsday book exhibits to us a particular proof that wine was made in England during the period preceding the conquest. And after the conquest, the bishop of Ely appears to have received at least three or four tons annually, as tythes from the produce of the vineyards in his diocese, and to have made frequent reservations in his leases of a certain quantity of wine for rent. Dr Thomas, the late dean of Ely, gives the following extracts from the archives of that church.

| Item | £ | s. | d. | |-------------------------------|----|----|----| | Exitus vineti | 2 | 15 | 3 | | Ditto vineae | 10 | 12 | 2 | | Ten bushels of grapes from the vineyard | 0 | 7 | 6 | | Seven dolia multi from the vineyard, 12th Edward II. | 15 | 1 | 0 | | Wine sold for | 1 | 12 | 0 | | Verjuice | 1 | 7 | | | One dolium and one pipe filled with new wine, and suppos'd at Ely. For wine out of this vineyard | 1 | 2 | 2 | | For verjuice from thence | 0 | 16 | 0 | | No wine but verjuice made, 9th Edward IV. | | | |

From these extracts it appears that Ely grapes would sometimes ripen, and the convent made wine of them; and sometimes not, and then they converted them into verjuice. Maddocks in his history of the Exchequer, i. 364, says that the sheriffs of Northamptonshire and Leicestershire, were allowed their account, for the livery of the king's vinedresser at Rockingham, and for necessaries for the vineyard. A piece of land in London, now forming East Smithfield and some adjoining streets, was withheld from the religious house within Aldgate by four successive constables of the Tower, in the reigns of Rufus, Henry, and Stephen, and made by them into a vineyard, to their great emolument. In the old accounts of rectorial and vicarial revenues, and in the old registers of ecclesiastical suits concerning them, the the tithe of wine is an article that frequently occurs in Kent, Surry, and other counties. And the wines of Gloucestershire within a century after the conquest were little inferior to the French in sweetness. It is alleged that a black grape very similar to the black mullein was introduced from Gaul into Britain, about the middle of the third century. To these proofs of the antiquity of vineyards in Britain, we shall add the following account of the vineyard at Painshill, Surry, (the most extensive one at present in England), given by the original proprietor, the honourable Charles Hamilton, to Sir Edward Barry, and published in his treatise on wines, p. 468.

"The vineyard at Pains-hill is situated on the fourth side of a gentle hill, the soil a gravelly sand; it is planted entirely with two kinds of Burgundy grapes, the Auvernat, which is the most delicate, but the tenderest; and the Miller grape, commonly called the black cluter, which is more hardy. The first year I attempted to make red wine in the usual way, by treading the grapes, then letting them ferment in a vat, till all the husks and impurities formed a thick crust at the top; the boiling ceased, and clear wine was drawn off from the bottom. This essay did not answer; the wine was so very harsh and astringent, that I despaired of ever making red wine fit to drink; but through that hardship I perceived a flavour something like that of some small French white wines, which made me hope I should succeed better with white wine. That experiment succeeded far beyond my most sanguine expectation; for the very first year I made white wine, it nearly resembled the flavour of Champagne; and in two or three years more, as the vines grew stronger, to my great amazement my wine had a finer flavour than the best Champagne I ever tasted. The first running was as clear as spirits; the second was eau de perdris; and both of them sparkled and creamed in the glass like Champagne. It would be endless to mention how many great judges of wine were deceived by my wine, and thought it superior to any Champagne they ever drank; but such is the prejudice of most people against any thing of English growth, I generally found it most prudent not to declare where it grew, till after they had passed their verdict upon it. The surest proof I can give of its excellence is, that I have sold it to wine merchants for fifty guineas a hogshead; and one wine merchant to whom I sold five hundred pounds worth at one time assured me, he sold some of the best of it from 7s. 6d. to 10s. 6d. per bottle. After many years experience, the best method I found of making and managing it was this: I let the grapes hang till they had got all the maturity the season would give them; then they were carefully cut off with scissors, and brought home to the wine barn, in small quantities, to prevent their heating, or pressing one another; then they were all picked off the stalks, and all the mouldy or green ones were discarded, before they were put upon the press; where they were all pressed in a few hours after they were gathered; much would run from them, before the press squeezed them, from their own weight one upon another. This running was as clear as water, and sweet as syrup; and all this of the first pressing, and part of the second continued white; the other pressings grew redish, and were not mixed with the best. As fast as the wine run from the press into a large receiver, it was put into the hogsheads, and closely bunged up. In a few hours one would hear the fermentation begin, which would soon burst the casks, if not guarded against, by hooping them strongly with iron, and securing them in strong wooden frames, and the heads with wedges. In the height of fermentation, I have frequently seen the wine oozing through the pores of the staves. The hogsheads were left all the depth of winter in the cold barn, to reap the benefit of the frosts. When the fermentation was over, which was easily discovered by the cessation of noise and oozing, but to be more certain, by pegging the cask, when it would be quite clear, then it was racked off into clean hogsheads, and carried to the vaults, before any warmth of weather could raise a second fermentation. In March, the hogsheads were examined; if any were not quite fine, they were fined down with common fish glue in the usual manner; those that were fine of themselves were not fined down, and all were bottled about the end of March; and in about six weeks more would be in perfect order for drinking, and would be in their prime for above one year; but the second year the flavour and sweetness would abate, and would gradually decline, till at last it lost all flavour and sweetness; and some that I kept fifteen years became so like old hock, that it might pass for such to one who was not a perfect connoisseur. The only art I ever used to it, was putting three pounds of white sugar candy to some of the hogsheads, when the wine was first tunned from the press, in order to conform to a rage that prevailed, to drink none but very sweet Champagne. I am convinced much good wine might be made in many parts of the south of England. Many parts are south of Pains-hill; many soils may be yet fitter for it; and many situations must be so; for mine was much exposed to the south west wind (the worst of all for vines), and the declivity was rather too steep; yet with these disadvantages it succeeded many years. Indeed the uncertainty of our climate is against it, and many fine crops have been spoiled by May frosts and wet summers; but one good year balances many disappointments."

In a dissertation on the growth of wine in England by F. X. Vilper, printed at Bath 1786, there is a method of training vines along the surface of the ground proposed, which seems well adapted to the northerly climate of Britain, for which the Rev. M. L. Broeg obtained a patent. Mr Vilper acknowledges, that he took the first hint from the following passage, from Lord Chancellor Bacon: "The loveliness of the fruit boughs makes the fruit greater, and causes it to ripen better; for we always see in apricots, peaches, and melon-cottens upon a wall, the largest fruit is towards the bottom; and in France, the grapes that make the wine grow upon low vines bound to small stakes, while the raised vines in arbours make verjuice." He adds "It is reported, that in some places vines are suffered to grow like herbs, spreading upon the ground, and the grapes of these vines are very large; it were proper to try whether plants usually sustained by props, will not bear large leaves and fruit if laid along the ground." Sect. III. The Flower Garden, or Pleasure Ground.

Sow and transplant tender annuals. See February and March. Protect hyacinths, ranunculuses, and anemones, planted in beds, from heavy rain and frost, as directed in January and February; likewise, when they are in flower, from very bright sunshine, from about two hours before till two or three after noon; but in this case the covering should be raised a considerable height, to admit air, and allow them to be viewed.

Plant tuberous in a hot-bed or hot-house, and give them but little water till they have come above ground.

Evergreen shrubs and trees may still be planted, but the earlier in the month the better.

Grafs walks and lawns should be poled, rolled, and mown. Gravel walks may be broken up and turned.

Sect. IV. Nursery.

Look over newly engrafted trees, and see if the clay keeps close about the grafts, as it is apt to crack and fall off; when you find it any way defective so as admit the air and rain to the graft, then remove it and apply fresh clay in its stead. All shoots which rise from the stalk below the graft must be taken off whenever they are produced; for if permitted to remain, they would rob the graft of nourishment, and prevent it shooting freely.

Trees that were budded last year, will now begin to push out their first shoots. Should they be infested with insects, so as to cause any of their leaves to curl, these should be picked off, and pains taken to destroy the vermin. Shoots that proceed from the stock under the bud must be rubbed off as soon as they appear.

The sowing and transplanting of young trees and shrubs from the seed bed, or where they stand too thick, should be finished early in the month, and if very dry weather prevail, water should be given to seed-beds, cuttings, and lately transplanted trees and shrubs.

Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.

Air may be admitted, and water given more freely than in the former months, because the plants will begin now to advance in growth; but in general the management must be nearly the same as recommended last month.

A proper degree of warmth, both in the bark bed and in the air of the hot-house, is requisite for fruiting pine apple plants. Water may be more frequently given, and air admitted more freely, because the weather will be milder; and in other respects they must be managed as directed in March. The succession pine apple plants, or such as are to fruit next year should be shifted into larger pots, (viz. 24s.) the size commonly made use of. When the plants are healthy, they should be turned out of the pots with the ball of earth about their roots as entire as possible, and put them into larger ones with an additional quantity of fresh earth; but should the plants be sickly, infested with insects, or appear to have bad roots, the whole of the earth should be shaken off, and the roots trimmed, a few of the under leaves stripped off the stem, and the plants then put into pots filled entirely with fresh earth.

After the plants have been thus shifted, they should have a moderate quantity of water given them frequently, which will promote their growth. The young pine apple plants which were raised from suckers or crowns last season should likewise be shifted into larger pots, if their roots appear to have filled those in which they have stood during the winter: if healthy, they should be turned out of the pots with the ball of earth entire; if otherwise, they must be treated like the succession plants as above.

This is a proper season for propagating hot-house plants by cuttings, layers, &c. or for sowing their seeds, hot-house cuttings of green-house plants may likewise be struck in the bark bed of the hot-house, and kept there till fit for transplanting.

MAY.

Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.

Melons require attention, particularly when their fruit are setting. The heat of the hot-beds must be of melons, kept up by proper linings; water must be given moderately, and air admitted regularly. In warm weather when the sun shines bright, the plants should be shaded from its rays for an hour or two about mid-day, by a covering of mats or something of that nature. A piece of tile or slate should be placed under each fruit after it is set, to prevent it from coming into contact with the moist earth of the bed, which would injure it, and cause it to drop off. Ridges may be formed for the reception of the melon and cucumber plants, which were sown last, or preceding month, to be raised under hand or bell glases. These ridges should be about four feet wide, and are to be constructed in the same manner as hot-beds. See January. The dung should be raised to the height of two feet and half, and covered with six or eight inches of rich light earth, and may be made either in trenches about a foot deep or on the surface of the ground. When more than one ridge is to be constructed, they should be placed parallel to one another at the distance of about four feet, which interval should afterwards be filled up with fresh horse dung when the heat in the ridges begins to decline; this will both revive the heat, and when earthened over, will afford room to extend the advancing runners of the plants. As soon as the ridges are earthened over, the hand or bell glases may be put on along the middle of the bed, at the distance of four feet, when intended for melons, and three feet when for cucumbers; and the following day, or as soon after as the earth under the glases has become warm, a hole should be made under each, into which two melon or three cucumber plants are to be put with the ball of earth about their roots; the earth should then be well closed about the ball and stem of the plant, a little water given, and the glases put on. Shade them for a day or two, and give air during the day by raising the glases. When the plants have filled the glases, the runners must be trained out from under them, but this should not take place till the end of the month, or some time in June. Oil paper frames are sometimes used for covering the ridges. These frames... frames are made of thin slips of wood covered with paper, rendered transparent and water proof by means of oil. Melons reared in this way will produce plentifully in August and September, and cucumbers from the middle of June, till the cold weather in autumn set in. If no cucumber plants were raised in March or April for this purpose, some seeds may be sown in the ridges. Some may likewise be sown about the end of the month in the open ground, to produce a crop for pickling; but should cold weather prevail at that time, it should be deferred till June. Gourds and pumpkins may be sown in the open ground in a warm situation, or in a hot-bed, to be afterwards transplanted.

A full crop of kidney beans may be planted both of the dwarf and tall running sorts: the former, viz., black speckled, Battersea and Canterbury white, should be planted in drills about an inch deep, and two feet and a half asunder, at the distance of two or three inches from each other; the latter, viz., the scarlet and large Dutch white, should be sown in drills, about an inch and a half deep, and three feet and a half or four asunder. These running kinds must have tall sticks, or some support of that nature.

The capsicum and love apples which were raised last or the preceding month in hot-beds, may be planted out into well sheltered situations exposed to the south.

Some spinach plants, both of the smooth and prickly seeded, should be allowed to run up for seed; and some of the different kinds of radishes should be transplanted for the same purpose.

The different crops should be kept clear of weeds, and thinned with the hoe. Turnips may be left at the distance of seven or eight inches from each other; carrots, six or eight; parsnips, eight to ten or twelve; onions, four or five; Hamburg parsley, scorzonera, and salsify, six or seven; and cardoons, five or six; that they may acquire strength for final transplantation.

Plant out cabbages, savoys, cauliflower, broccoli, and bore cole.

**Sect. II. Fruit Garden.**

As wall trees will now have made vigorous shoots, a sufficient quantity of the best placed lateral, and all the terminal ones, should be trained to the wall, and all foreright, ill placed, superfluous, and very luxuriant shoots, should be removed. None of the young branches should be shortened, unless where a supply of new wood is wanted to fill up some vacant space. When the fruit stands too thick on wall trees, they should be thinned. When wall trees are infested with insects, means should be made use of to destroy them; the curled leaves should be picked off with a view to check their propagation: tobacco dust may be sometimes employed with advantage; but water sprinkled plentifully over the branches with an engine constructed on purpose, is the most efficacious remedy.

Let vines both on walls and in vineyards be looked over; and let all superfluous branches, which proceed from the old wood or lateral shoots, which are pushed out by the young branches, be rubbed off; indeed this must be done constantly during the summer.

**Sect. III. The Flower Garden, or Pleasure Ground.**

Tender annuals should be transplanted into newly formed hot-beds, when they are wished to flower early and in full perfection, particularly balsams and cocklecombs.

Let the auricula plants in pots, which are past flowering, be placed in some situation where they may enjoy the free air and the sun till about ten o'clock in the morning.

Some wallflower and stock gillyflower seed may be sown about the beginning of the month; cuttings also of flower, &c., double wall-flowers and stocks may be planted under bell and hand glasses, or in a shady border.

Perennial and biennial plants that were sown last March, will be fit for transplanting about the end of biennials, the month into beds, where they may remain to acquire &c., strength.

**Sect. IV. Nursery.**

Towards the end of the month, the clay should be newly removed from newly grafted trees, and the bandages grafted loosed, because they might check the growth of the trees. grafts which will now shoot freely, and all buds under the graft should be carefully removed.

**Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.**

About the end of the month, if the weather should be favourable, the greater part of the plants may be removed from the green-house, and placed in some well-sheltered situation in the open air. The plants in the air-hot-house should receive water and air freely, particularly in bright weather.

**June.**

**Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.**

The same care of cucumbers and melons which was recommended for last month, is necessary now; the cucumbers sown in the open ground last month should be thinned, when they begin to push out their first rough leaves, and a few more seeds may be sown for the same purpose, but the earlier in the month the better. Transplant celery for blanching. For this purpose, form trenches, about a spade deep and three feet apart; lay the earth which comes out of the trenches regularly along each side; lay into each trench some well-rotten dung, and dig it in; put the plants in a row along the middle of the trench at the distance of four or five inches from one another. About a month or six weeks after they have been planted, when they have acquired the height of six or eight inches, a quantity of earth should be laid about their stems, to blanch them and prepare them for the table; this should be done during dry weather, and repeated once a fortnight, or according as the plants advance in growth, till they are blanched to the height of a foot or fifteen inches. The earlier sown celery will be fit for transplanting about the beginning of the month; the later sown, about the end.

About the latter end of the month transplant endive. for blanching; which should be planted out in rows, a foot apart, and at the same distance from one another in the row. Some endive seed should be sown for a principal crop; the green curled is commonly sown for this purpose, because it is least apt to be injured by rain or cold.

The cauliflower, broccoli, and bore-cole plants which were sown last month, should be planted out at the distance of about three inches from one another, into beds where they may remain, to acquire strength to fit them for final transplantation in July. Some of the early cauliflower plants, which have formed good heads, should be allowed to stand for seed, which will ripen in September.

About the middle of this month is the best season for sowing a principal crop of turnips; the different kinds commonly sown, are the yellow, white Dutch, round white, stone-turnip, Swedish, black Rutland, small French round. The large white Norfolk, green topped, and red-topped, are chiefly used for field culture.

Plant out leeks in rows nine inches asunder, and about six inches from one another in the row; it is an usual practice to trim off the extremities of their leaves and of their roots before they are planted.

Plant out pot-herbs, such as thyme, savory, sweet-marjoram and hyssop; likewise angelica, marigolds, clary, &c. A rainy or dull day should be chosen, and the plants put in at the distance of six inches from one another; occasional watering will be necessary, till they have taken root. Cuttings or slips of sage, hyssop, rue, rosemary, lavender, &c. may be planted in a shady situation, and occasionally watered.

**Sect. II. Fruit Garden.**

Wall trees, and vines in the vineyard, require the same attention this month that was recommended last. When plantations of strawberries are wanted, the young plants that are produced at the joints of the runners, that are furnished with good roots, should be taken up about the end of this month, and planted in a shady border at the distance of about six inches from one another; by September they will be fit to be planted out at the distance of a foot or fifteen inches from each other.

**Sect. III. Flower Garden, or Pleasure Ground.**

The roots of hyacinths, jonquils, ranunculuses, &c. should be taken up after their stalks begin to decay, dried and preserved till planting season; the roots of narcissus, crocus, snow-drop, &c. may likewise be taken up and separated, and either planted again immediately or kept till autumn.

Take up also autumnal flowering bulbs, such as colchicum, autumnal crocuses and narcissus, Guernsey and belladona lilies, cyclamens, &c.; take off the offsets, and plant them again immediately, or keep them till next month.

Perennial plants, such as double scarlet lychnis, double rocket, &c. may be propagated by cuttings of their stalks; each cutting should consist of three or four joints, two of which, (or more than one half the length of the cutting), should be inserted into the ground; they may be either planted into a shady border, three or four inches apart, or more closely together, and covered with bell or hand glasses.

Propagate carnations, pinks, and double sweet-williams, by layers. Select young shoots about five or six inches long for this purpose; strip off the leaves from the lower part of the stalks, and trim off the tops of those placed at its extremity; make a slanting cut with a sharp knife on the under part of the stalk, which should commence at a joint near the middle of the shoot, and extend upwards almost half way to the next; make a hole in the earth about an inch or an inch and a half deep, immediately under the shoot, for its reception; fix it down with a small hooked stick, and cover it with earth, except an inch or two at its extremity. A little water should be given in dry weather, which will make the layers strike root more readily. Pinks and carnations may likewise be propagated by cuttings or pipings. These pipings are formed of the extremities of the young shoots, taken off immediately under the third joint, which should be inserted into light earth almost to their tops, (the extremities of their leaves being previously trimmed off.) They should receive a little water to make the earth settle closely about them, and should be covered with a bell or hand glass. The earth is sometimes rendered quite wet, and reduced to a state resembling mortar, before the pipings are introduced.

About the end of the month hedges should receive their first clipping.

**Sect. IV. Nursery.**

About the end of the month you may inoculate peaches, nectarines, apricots, and roses; for the method, inoculated, see July.

If any of the trees that were budded last summer, or grafted last spring, have made very vigorous shoots, stakes should be fixed into the ground close to the stocks, to which both the stocks and shoots must be fixed.

Propagate both deciduous and evergreen shrubs by layers, particularly such as do not push out roots freely except from the new wood.

**Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.**

If the greenhouse plants were not placed in the open air last month, on account of the coldness of the weather, they may be safely trusted out now. These plants may be propagated this month by cuttings, layers,arching, &c.

Hot-house plants may likewise be propagated now, and should receive a plentiful allowance of air and water; pine apple plants which are approaching to maturity should be sparingly watered, because too much water would injure the flavour of the fruit.

**JULY.**

**Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.**

Plant out cabbages, savoys, broccoli, bore-cole, endive cabbages, and celery; for the methods see the former months. &c. planted. Sow some broccoli seed about the beginning of the out month. Sow some endive seed for a winter crop; the green curled endive is the best for this purpose, but some Part III.

July. Fruit Garden, &c.

Some white and Batavian may likewise be sown. Some kidney-beans, of the dwarf kind, should be sown for a late crop. Some turnip-rooted or Spanish radish may be sown, and managed exactly like turnip: there are two kinds, the black and the white; both of which are very hardy, and stand the winter well.

Some peas and beans may be sown when a late crop is wanted.

As artichokes now advance to maturity, those who prefer one large head to two or three smaller ones, ought to cut off all the lateral heads from the stalks, before they exceed the size of a hen's egg; which will promote the growth of the principal head. It is a common practice to break down the stalks of artichokes near the ground, as soon as their heads have been cut for the table, to make them push more vigorously from the root.

If the stalks of onions, garlic, and shallot, begin to decay, which is sometimes the case about the end of this month, they should be pulled up and dried. See AUGUST.

Sect. II. Fruit Garden.

As fruits advance to maturity, wall trees should be protected from birds by nets; and means should be taken to destroy snails, wasps, and other insects.

Sect. III. Flower Garden, or Pleasure Ground.

Some tender annuals may be planted out into the flower borders in the open air.

Seedling auriculas and polyanthus may be planted out, into a border not exposed to the midday sun, at the distance of two inches from one another, and watered occasionally.

Sect. IV. Nursery.

Inoculate apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, and pears; the first four are commonly inoculated on plum stocks, the last on pear or quince stocks. Inoculating or budding, as it is termed, may be performed on many other trees, and shrubs; the method of performing it is as follows.

With a budding knife, which resembles a penknife, with a flat handle, make a horizontal cut at some smooth part quite through the bark of the stock, from the middle of which make a perpendicular cut downwards, about two inches in length, so as to form a figure resembling the letter T. Take a young shoot of the tree, with which you intend to inoculate, cut off the leaves from its lower extremity, leaving a small part of the footstalk of each, then, about an inch under the lowest bud, make a cross cut in the shoot almost halfway through, with the knife slanting upwards, and with a clean cut, bring it out about half an inch above the bud, detaching part both of the wood and bark containing the bud. Separate the small piece of the wood which was taken off along with the bud, from the bark, which is readily done with your knife, placing the point of it between the bark and wood at one end; then examine the inside of the bark, to see if the internal eye of the bud be left; for if there appears a small hole, the eye is gone with the wood, and the bud becomes useless; but if no hole appears, the bud is good, and may be inserted into the stock, by raising the bark with the handle of the budding knife on each side of the perpendicular cut, immediately under the cross cut. If the piece of bark which contains the bud be too long for the incision made in the stock, it should be reduced to a proper length with the knife, and introduced between the bark and wood of the stock, and placed so as to make the bud project through the perpendicular cut. Having fixed the bud, and placed the bark of the stock closely about it, put a bandage of mat, which should be previously steeped in water to increase its tenacity, round the stock, which should extend from a little below to a little above the incision; taking care that none of the folds of the bandage cover the bud.

In three weeks or a month after the inoculation has been performed, the buds will have united with the stock, which is discoverable by the bud appearing plump; the bandages should then be removed: were they to remain, they would cramp the buds and injure them. The incisions should be made in the stocks, about six inches above ground, when dwarf trees are wanted; and at the height of five feet, when standards are to be inoculated: the buds remain dormant, and require no further attention till next spring; when they begin to push out, the heads of the stalks should be cut off.

Seedling pines, where they stand too thick in the feed-bed, may be transplanted; but great care must be taken to water them and shade them from the sun.

Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.

Green-house plants require a plentiful supply of water at this season. If the fruit have set too thick on orange or lemon trees, they should be thinned, otherwise they will not acquire a proper size.

As many of the pines will ripen their fruit in the course of this month, it is a proper time to begin to propagate these plants, which is done by planting the crowns that are produced at the top of the fruit, and the suckers which proceed from the root of the plants, about the time the fruit is ripe, or soon after they are cut.

These suckers or crowns, if properly managed, will produce fruit in two years, and then decay. Each fruit is surmounted by at least one crown, which frequently has a number of offsets at its base; and each plant, after it has produced fruit, throws out from its root one or more suckers before it decays. The crowns, when they are separated from the fruit, must lie five or six days in some dry place, till the part which was attached to the fruit is completely dried, before they are fit for planting. The suckers which proceed from the root of the plant should be taken off, when they have acquired the length of five or six inches, and when their lower extremity has become brown; they must likewise lie in some dry situation for a few days, till the part by which they were connected with the root of the parent plant be thoroughly dried. Put each crown or sucker into a small pot, filled with light rich earth, and plunge them in the bark-bed of a hot-house, or in a hot-bed made on purpose.

A method of raising pine apples in water is given by William Bastard, Esq. of Devonshire, in the 67th vol. of RAISING PINE APPLES IN WATER. lume of the Philosophical Transactions. His account of this method is as follows:

"In the front part of the house, and indeed anywhere in the lowest parts of it, the pine-apple plants will not thrive well in water. The way in which I treat them is as follows:—I place a shelf near the highest part of the back wall, so that the pine apples may stand without absolutely touching, but as near as can be; on this shelf I place pans full of water, about seven or eight inches deep; and in these pans I put the pine-apple plants, growing in the same pots of earth as they are generally planted in, to be plunged into the bark-bed in the common way; that is, I put the pot of earth, with the pine plant in it, in the pan full of water, and as the water decreases I constantly fill up the pan. I place either plants in fruit, or young plants, as soon as they are well rooted, in these pans of water, and find they thrive equally well: the fruit reared this way is always much larger, as well as better flavoured, than when ripened in the bark-bed. I have more than once put only the plants themselves without any earth, I mean after they had roots, into these pans of water, with only water sufficient to keep the roots always covered, and found them flourish beyond expectation. In my house the shelf I mention is supported by irons from the top; and there is an intervening space of about ten inches between the back wall and the shelf. A neighbour of mine has placed a leaden cistern upon the top of the back flue, in which, as it is in contact with the flue, the water is always warm when there is fire in the house, and finds his fruit excellent and large. My shelf does not touch the back flue, but is about a foot above it; and, consequently, the water is only warmed by the air in the house. Both these methods do well. The way I account for this success is, that the warm air, always ascending to the part where the shelf is placed, as being the highest part of the house, keeps it much hotter than in any other part. The temperature at that place is, I believe, seldom less than what is indicated by the 73° of Fahrenheit's thermometer, and when the sun shines it is often above 100°; the water the plants grow in seems to enable them to bear the greatest heat, if sufficient air be allowed; and I often see the roots of plants growing out of the holes in the bottom of the pot of earth, and shooting vigorously in the water.

"My hot-house, the dimensions of which it may be proper to know, is 60 feet long, and 11 feet wide, the flues included; five feet high in the front, and 11 feet at the back of the inside of the house. It is warmed by two fires. A leaden trough or cistern on the top of the back flue is preferable to my shelf; as in it the pine plants grow much faster in the winter, the water being always warmed by the flue. Of this I have seen great benefits these last two months in my neighbourhood.

"It is not foreign to this purpose to mention, that as a person was moving a large pine plant from the hot-bed in my house last summer, which plant was just flowering fruit, by some accident he broke off the plant just above the earth in which it grew, and there was no root whatever left to it. By way of experiment, I took the plant, and fixed it upright in a pan of water, without any earth whatever, in the shelf; it there soon threw out roots, and bore a pine apple that weighed upwards of two pounds."

1. The bromelia ananas, of which there are six varieties: 1. Ovalis, or oval-shaped pine apple. 2. Pyramidalis (pyramidal), or sugar-loaf pine. 3. Glaber, with smooth leaves. 4. Lucida, with thinning green leaves. 5. Serotinus, with a yellowish-coloured leaf. 6. Viridis, or green pine apple.

The first sort of ananas is the most common in Europe; apple, but the second sort is much preferable to it, the fruit of this being larger and much better flavoured; the juice of this sort is not so alluring as that of the first; so that this fruit may be eaten in greater quantity, with less danger. This sort frequently produces suckers immediately under the fruit, whereby it may be increased much better than the common sort; so that in a few years it may be the best common sort in Britain.

The third sort is preferred for curiosity by way of variety; but the fruit is not worth anything.

The sort with very smooth green leaves, was raised from seeds taken out of a rotten fruit, which came from the West Indies to the late Henry Heathcote, Esq. from whom Mr Millar received one plant, which produced large fruit: this is what the people of America call the king pine.

AUGUST.

Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.

Sow some prickly-fedded, or triangular-leaved spinach, for a winter and spring crop; for though the crops of round-fedded produces larger and more succulent leaves, spinach, the prickly-fedded is to be preferred now, because it is by much the hardier of the two. After the plants have got their first leaves about an inch broad, they should be thinned to the distance of four inches from one another, and kept free from weeds.

Sow some cabbage seed both of the early and late kinds, to produce plants for next year.

Sow some onions, to be used when young in winter or spring, or to produce a crop of early onions this summer. The Strafford or any other kind may be sown now, but the Welsh onion is very hardy, and stands the winter well; for though their tops should be destroyed by the severity of the weather, they will push up again from the root in the spring: this onion, however, does not produce bulbs.

Towards the end of the month sow some cauliflower feed to produce plants for an early crop next summer, which may be protected during the winter, either under hot-bed frames, bell or hand-glasses, or in a well-sheltered border exposed to the south. Between the 18th and 24th of this month is, perhaps, the best time to sow these feeds. The London gardeners, who sow great quantities, are accustomed to sow them on a particular day, viz. the 21st of this month. If they be sown too early, they are apt to button, as the gardeners term it, i.e. run up to feed without producing heads of a proper size; and if they be sown too late, the plants do not acquire sufficient strength, before winter, to enable them to support the severity of the weather.

Sow some lettuce seed about the middle of the month, both to supply the table late in the autumn, or beginning of winter, and to plant out into well-sheltered borders, or under hot-bed frames, to stand during winter. Part III.

August.

Fruit Garden.

Plant out broccoli, favoys, bore-cole, and celery, for the use of winter and spring.

The cardoons which were planted in June should have some earth laid up to their stems, to blanch them and render them fit for the table. That this may be accomplished the more easily, tie up the leaves of each plant, with a piece of bals mat or small straw rope, and apply some earth close round the stem, which earthing must be repeated at intervals, till it rise to the height of two feet.

The principal crops of onions will be fit for taking up in the course of this month. Choose a dry day for taking them up; take off the stalks within two or three inches of the bulb; spread them in some dry place, exposed to the sunshine, for 10 or 12 days, that they may be thoroughly dried.

Sect. II. Fruit Garden.

Look over vines, figs, and other wall trees; remove all foreright and superfluous branches, and nail the others close into the wall, that the rays of the sun may have free access to the fruit.

Vines in the vineyard likewise should be fixed to the stakes, and cleared of all superfluous shoots.

Sect. III. Flower Garden or Pleasure Ground.

About the end of the month, you may propagate by slips, fibrous-rooted perennial plants, such as double rose campion, catchfly, double scarlet lychnis, double rocket, double ragged robin, bachelor's button, gentianella, polyanthus, auriculas, double daisies, &c. As these plants frequently grow in tufts, they may be taken up and divided, taking care that every slip be provided with some roots.

Auricula plants in pots should receive fresh earth.

Auricula and polyanthus feed may be sown any time this month, but will not come up till spring.

Layers of carnations, double sweetwilliams, and pinks, that are properly rooted, may be separated from the parent plant, and planted into borders or pots.

Cuttings and pipings of pinks and carnations, may be planted out into beds or borders.

Towards the end of the month the seeds of bulbous-rooted flowers, such as tulips, hyacinths, narcissus, iris, crocus, fritillaria, crown imperial, lilies, and snowdrops; likewise, the seeds of anemone, ranunculus, and cyclamen, may be sown in beds or boxes, to obtain new varieties. They must be protected during winter from the frost; and when they appear above ground in spring, they must be kept clear of weeds.

Plant out feeding biennials and perennials.

About the end of this month hedges should receive their second clipping.

Sect. IV. Nursery.

Budding may still be performed about the beginning of the month, and those trees which were budded three weeks or a month ago, should be examined. If the buds remain plump and fresh, there is reason to believe that they have succeeded; in that case the bandages must be loosened.

Sect. V. Greenhouse and Hot-house.

Greenhouse plants, in the open air, must be managed as already directed.

The plants in the hot-house must receive a plentiful allowance of air and water.

Succession pine-apple plants, that are to produce fruit next year, should be shifted into larger pots, viz twenty-fours or sixteens, about the beginning of the month. The plants should be turned out of the old pots and placed in the new ones, a quantity of light rich earth being previously put into the bottom of each. Each pot should then be filled with some of the same earth, watered, and plunged into the tan, which, at the same time, should be turned over and receive an addition of about one-third of fresh tan.

September.

Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.

Plant some brown Dutch, cos, and common cabbage lettuce, in a well-sheltered situation, exposed to the mid-day sun, to be covered with hot-bed frames and glases, which should not be put over them till some time next month.

Plant out from the seed-bed the cauliflowers that were sown last month, into well-sheltered borders, at flowers, the distance of three or four inches from one another, taking care not to plant them so deep as to cover their hearts with earth. These plants may be either planted out again next month under garden frames, bell or hand-glases, to stand during the winter, or may remain where planted.

Plant broccoli, favoys, bore-cole, celery, and endive.

Earth up celery and cardoons.

Tie up the leaves of endive with a piece of bals mat, or something of that nature, to blanch them, and prepare them for the table.

Mushroom beds may be formed any time this month, as spawn will very easily be procured during August, of September, or October. The spawn has the appearance of a white mould shooting out in strings, which, when bruised, smells like mushrooms. It may be obtained either from old mushroom beds, old hot-beds, or dung hills that are principally composed of horse dung, and from pasture fields, indeed in any place where horse or sheep's dung has lain for some time undisturbed and not exposed to much moisture; and may be preserved for a considerable length of time, in a proper state for using. If spawn is not otherwise to be procured, some may be produced by laying a quantity of horse dung and rich earth in alternate layers, and covered with straw to exclude the rain and air; for the more these are excluded, the sooner the spawn will appear, which commonly happens in about two months after the dung and earth have been laid together. Mushroom beds should be formed of dung that has been spread out for some time, without having been fermented, and may be made two or three feet broad, and of any length. A stratum of dung about a foot thick, should be laid first, which should be covered with rich earth to the depth of about four inches, then ano- September. ther stratum of dung about ten inches thick, which should be covered like the former; a third stratum of dung may be laid and covered with earth like the two former. The whole should be made to grow narrower as it advances in height, and formed into a ridge resembling the roof of a house. When the bed is finished it should be covered with straw, to exclude the rain, and to prevent the bed from being dried by the sun or wind, in which situation it should remain eight or ten days, when the bed will be in a proper temperature of warmth to receive the spawn. The spawn should be placed in lumps four or five inches asunder, in the sloping sides of the bed, and covered with a little rich earth; the whole must then be covered with a thick coat of straw. When these beds are made in spring or autumn, as the weather in those months is temperate, the spawn will take soon, and the mushrooms will appear in about a month after the bed has been made; but when these are made in winter, when the weather is cold, or even in summer when the weather is very hot, a much longer time will elapse. The principal thing to be attended to, in the management of these beds, is to preserve them in a proper degree of moisture and warmth. Therefore, when the weather is very cold or very wet, care must be taken to apply a thick covering of dry straw, and when the bed appears dry, a gentle watering must be given.

**Sect. II. Fruit Garden.**

Where any fruit, particularly grapes, are shaded with leaves, pains should be taken to expose them to the rays of the sun, that they may acquire proper flavour, likewise when the clusters are entangled, they should be disengaged, that each may have the benefit of the sun and air.

Strawberries may be planted any time this month when the weather is showery. If rain should not fall towards the beginning of the month, the transplanting should be deferred, otherwise they must be watered occasionally, for some time after they are planted. If any were planted into beds in June, they will be in excellent condition for planting out now; but if none were planted out then, the best rooted plants produced at the joints of the runners, or offsets from the old plants, should be chosen, and planted at the distance of a foot or 15 inches from one another, either in beds, about four feet wide, or in rows along the borders. Most kinds of strawberries succeed best in an open situation, but the wood strawberry may be planted under the shade of trees or bushes.

The principal kinds of strawberries, are, the scarlet or Virginian, white wood, green wood, red wood, large white wood, hautboy strawberry, large globe hautboy, oblong hautboy, royal hautboy, green hautboy, Chili strawberry, globe Chili, fugar-loaf Chili, pine-apple Chili, Bath Chili, Carolina Chili, white Carolina Chili, Devonshire Chili, Royal Chili, Dutch Chili, Alpine or prolific, which produces fruit from June to November, red Alpine, white Alpine, scarlet Alpine, pine-apple strawberry, red, white, and green.

About the end of the month, most of the late pears and apples will be fit for taking down, to be laid up for keeping. See October.

**Sect. III. Flower Garden or Pleasure Ground.**

Transplant and propagate fibrous-rooted perennial plants by slips.

Towards the end of the month, hyacinths, tulips, and other bulbs, may be planted. See October.

**Sect. IV. Nursery.**

Transplant evergreens towards the end of the month, such as Portugal laurels, laurustinus, arbutus, &c.

Both evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs may be propagated by layers or cuttings about the end of the month.

**Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.**

About the end of the month, if the weather be cold, orange and lemon trees, and many of the tenderer kinds of greenhouse plants, should be removed into the house.

About the end of this month or beginning of next, the tan-bed in the hot-house should be refreshed with a quantity of new tan, one half or two thirds according as the old tan may be more or less decayed.

**October.**

**Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.**

Plant out some of the lettuces that were raised in August, into a well sheltered border or into a hot-bed frame to supply the table during winter and spring. Cauliflower plants that were planted out last month from the seedbed, may now be planted under hot-bed frames, at the distance of about four inches from one another, or under bell or hand glases. Four or five plants may be put under each hand glass, all of which (should they survive the winter) may again be planted out in the spring, except one, or at most two, of the strongest, which should be allowed to remain and produce heads. See February.

Propagate aromatic vegetables by slips, such as thyme, mint, balm, sage, &c.

Asparagus beds should receive their winter dressing, i.e. their stalks should be cut down, and the alleys be raked between the beds should be dug, and a little of the earth from the alleys spread over the surface of each bed. Asparagus beds require some dung once every two years, which should be applied at this season. Before the alleys are dug, a little well rotten dung should be spread over the surface of the beds, dug in with a fork, and covered with a little of the earth from the alleys. Where forced asparagus is required early in winter, a hot-bed may be made any time this month. See January.

Plant some early Mazagan beans, and hotspur peas about the end of the month, to stand the winter, and produce a crop early in summer.

**Sect. II. Fruit Garden.**

Winter pears and apples should in general be gathered this month. Some will be fit to take down the winter apples. beginning of the month, others will not be ready before the middle, or towards the end. To know when the fruits have had their full growth, some of them should be tried in different parts of the tree, by turning them gently upwards; if they quit the tree early, it is a sign of maturity, and time to gather them. But none of the more delicate eating pears should be permitted to hang longer on the trees than the middle of the month, especially if the nights prove frothy; for if they are once touched with the frost, it will occasion many of them to rot before they are fit for the table: and therefore, in general, let neither apples nor pears remain longer on the trees than the middle or the end of this month, for they will not improve by hanging on the trees after that time. The best apples and pears which are intended for long keeping, should be taken down one by one, on a dry day, and carefully put into baskets, to be carried to the fruiterry, or place where they are to be stored up. The fruit themselves should be dry when taken down from the trees, therefore should not be gathered too early in the morning, before the dew on their surface has evaporated. They should be laid in a heap for ten days or a fortnight, that their watery juices may transpire; each should then be thoroughly dried with a cloth, and laid on the shelves of the fruiterry, or in boxes or hampers well covered with dry straw or hay.

About the end of the month, apricots, peaches, and nectarines may be pruned. See January.

All sorts of fruit trees may be planted, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, cherries, apples, pears, quinces, vines, figs, mulberries, medlars, services, filberts, &c. The ground for this purpose should be trenched to the depth of one or two spades, and should be well manured. If the borders on which the fruit trees are to be planted have not a sufficient depth of soil, a quantity of good earth may be added. Peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, and cherries, are commonly planted at the distance of about fifteen feet from one another. Pears and apples when grafted on dwarf stocks may be planted about the same distance, but those which are on free stocks, about eighteen or twenty feet. Cherries and plums for standards should be planted at the distance of twenty or twenty-five feet from one another. Apples and pears, on free stocks, should be planted in rows, thirty or forty feet asunder, and at the distance of twenty-five or thirty feet from one another in the row. Dwarf apples and pears, however, may be planted at less than half that distance.

The principal kinds of apricots are, the early mucedine, Turkey, Brussels, Roman, Breda, orange, Algiers, royal, Moor-park, alberget, transparent, Dunmore, or apricot peach, and Portugal.

The principal sorts of peaches are, the red magdalen, white magdalen, red nutmeg, white nutmeg, noblets, early Newington, old Newington, great French mignone, small mignone, admirable chancellor, Millet's mignone, incomparable, violet native, purple native, Royal George, Montauban, teton de Venus, round transparent, Catharine, and bloody peach.

The principal kinds of nectarines are, early nutmeg, Newington, red, Roman, violet, violet, musk, golden, scarlet, Elrige, Temple, Murray, Brugnon, white Italian.

The principal sorts of plums are, the Primordan or early white, Precoce or early black, early Morocco, Orleans, green gage, la royale, damas de Tour, damas violette, white bonum magnum or egg plum, red bonum magnum or Imperial, Perdrigron white, Perdrigron violet, Monfieur plum, drap d'or, royal dauphin, Fotheringham, azure native, or early blue gage, queen mother, myrobalan, apricot plum, red, white, diapree, Monfieur native, Roche carbon, Jaune native, groffe queen Claude, petite queen Claude, imperiale violette or blue imperial, petite mirabile, damas muleque, diapree noire, diapree violette, imperatrice blanche or white emprefs, imperatrice noire or late black, Spanish damas, damas of September, St Catharine, common damson, Bullace.

The principal kinds of cherries are, the early May, May-duke, arch-duke, Harrifon's duke, white heart, black heart, bleeding heart, Adams's crown heart, Hertfordshire heart, ox heart, Turkey, carnation, amber, Kentish or Flemish, Portugal, morella, white crofian, black coroun, small black guigne or geen, small red guigne, small red wild black of the woods and hedges, ditto red.

The principal kinds of apples are, the common cod-apples, lin, Kentish codlin, Dutch codlin, Margaret, golden pippin, gold rennet, Holland pippin, Kentish pippin, nonpareil, royal rufset, Wheeler's rufset, golden rufset, gray rufset, winter pearmain, scarlet pearmain, Loan's pearmain, aromatic rufset, pomme d'Appis, Newton pippin, English rennet, autumn rennet, winter queening, margille, nonefuch, gray Leadington, Marcat, tender rennet, kitchen rennet, large white, Italian, Spanish rennet, Canada rennet, groffe rennet de Normandie, Fearns pippin, white French rennet, clutter pearmain, lemon pippin, French pippin, winter greening, winter pippin, Flanders pippin, white coffin, Kirton pippin, stone pippin, couperdu, or hanging body, couperdu red, rambour summer, rambour winter, rennet grife, French rennet, cat's head, leathercoat, ruflet of winter, pomme de gelée, Siberian crab, American cherry crab, two years apple hanging on the trees, if permitted, till the second year.

The principal kinds of pears are, the green miffal, Pearcatharine, jargonelle, cuisse madame, Windsor chamontelle, creflane, echaferie, graffe blanquette, beure de rois, white beure, winter beure, colmar, St Germain, lent St Germain, Martinnee, graffe nuifac, autumn nuifac, orange bergamot, Hambden's bergamot, red beure, golden beure, brown beure, great roufflelet, petit roufflelet, Holland bergamot, verte longue, winter bonchreien, summer ditto, Spanish ditto, Meffieur Jean, Green sugar, la marquis, fwan egg, virglefe, Portugal, gray goodwife, citron de carmes, ambrette, royal d'hiver, St Michael, Louise bonne, summer orange, winter orange, Swifs bergamot, devionett.

Baking pears. Large black pear of Worcester, Par-kinson's warden, Uvedale St Germain, cadillac. The principal kinds of quinces are the Portugal, apple quince, pear quince. The principal kinds of mulberries are the common black, white, red, medlars, Dutch, Nottingham or English. Services. Common wild service, bervey, sweet service or ferb, apple-shaped, pear-shaped, berry-shaped.

The principal sorts of figs are, the common blue, early long blue, early white, large white, large Genoa, Brunswick, Marselles, Cyprian, brown Ithlia, brown Malta. November. Malta. Filberts. Large red skinned filbert, white skinned, common hazel nut, Barcelona nut, cob nut, cluster nut, Byzantine nut.

Gooseberries, currants, and raspberries, may likewise be planted about the end of this month. See January.

Sect. III. Flower Garden, or Pleasure Ground.

Bulbous-rooted plants, such as tulips, hyacinths, roots plant-narcissus, jonquils, crocus, dens-canis, crown imperial, sword lily, ixia, Persian and English iris, ranunculus, and anemone, may be planted any time this month, either in beds by themselves, or in flower borders, together with other flowers; but the finer sorts of tulip, hyacinths, ranunculus, and anemone, are commonly planted in beds, six or eight inches distant, and two or three deep.

Plant out deciduous and evergreen trees and shrubs. The method of planting all these is to open a circular hole, wide enough to receive the roots, and about a spade deep, more or less, according to the length of the roots.

Thorn and other hedges may be planted towards the end of this month, or any time in the course of the next.

Sect. IV. Nursery.

Sow haws, holly berries, hips, barberries, yew-berries, acorns, beech-maids, maple and aln-wood, cherry and plum stones, in a bed about four feet wide. It is a common practice to keep haws and hips, in heaps covered over with earth for twelve months; for those which are sown without this preparation frequently lie a whole year in the seed-bed, without coming above ground. Plant cuttings of laurels and evergreens.

Sect. V. Green-house and Hot-house.

The harder kinds of green-house plants should be all removed into the green-house, when they should have plenty of air, except in very cold or wet weather.

The succession pine-apple plants should be removed into the fruiting house, which should previously receive a quantity of new tan, as directed last month. The younger succession plants likewise should be moved into the place of those that have been transferred into the fruiting house, air should be given freely in mild weather, and water very moderately.

November.

Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.

Tie up endive for blanching, continue to earth-up cardoons, and dress the plantations of artichokes, i.e., cut down their larger leaves, and lay some earth about the plants, to protect them during winter.

Carrots and parsnips may be taken up, and preserved in sand during the winter.

Some more peas and beans may be sown to succeed those that were sown last month, or to supply their place if they should be cut off by the severity of the weather.

The best time for pruning vines is immediately after the fall of the leaf, because the greatest possible time in prune vines that way is allowed for healing the wounds. Vines that are cut about the time of the rise of the sap in the spring, are apt to bleed profusely; this happens sometimes even to those that are pruned in the course of the winter. It is a common error, in pruning vines, to allow the branches to grow too close together, particularly in those varieties which grow vigorously, and have very large leaves; for, in summer, when the leaves are fully expanded, they are so much crowded together as to exclude the rays of the sun from the fruit. When pruning is properly performed, the young branches should be left at the distance of from one foot or two feet, and even upwards from one another; but this in a great measure must be regulated by the size of their leaves. The Syrian grape has leaves about a foot and a half broad, with foot-stalks six inches long. The black Hamburgh has leaves twelve or thirteen inches broad, with footstalks seven inches long. The black cluster on the contrary has leaves five inches broad, with foot-stalks three inches long. Blue frontignac and claret grape have leaves six inches broad, with foot-stalks about four inches long. When vines are weakly, each shoot should be shortened so as to leave only three or four eyes; when they are moderately vigorous, each should be left about a foot long. When very vigorous, some of the shoots may be left three or four feet long or more; the shoots of vines, however, that are trained to the rafters of a vinery or pine-floor may be left eighteen or twenty feet long. It has been observed, that both the largest grapes and finest clusters are produced on shoots of a considerable length. When vines have been allowed to run into confusion, much time and pains are requisite to reduce them to regularity; but when they have been trained regularly from the beginning, pruning is easily and expeditiously performed.

If the following directions for training vines in a Directions vinery be observed, they will easily be kept in order, for training and plentiful crops of good fruit may be expected.

Vines may be planted both on the back wall and front of a vinery; those on the back wall should be planted from six to twelve feet asunder, according to the vigour of growth of the particular sort, and in such a position that the two uppermost buds may point east and west; these on the front should be planted so as one may be trained to each rafter. When the vines begin to grow, all the buds except the two uppermost must be rubbed off from those on the back wall, and all except the uppermost from those on the front wall. If any of the plants show fruit the first year, the clusters should be rubbed off, as well as the tendrils and lateral shoots and the principal shoots should be trained regularly to the trellis as they advance in growth. Fires should be put in the vinery during the spring, to encourage an early growth in the vines, that they may have full time to ripen their wood. In the month of June the glaïffes may be taken off altogether, but should be put on again in September, and continued till the fall of the leaf, when the vines should be pruned. The two shoots which each vine on the back-wall was permitted to push, should be cut down to their third or fourth bud, according November, according as either of them appears fullest and strongest, and then bent down as near as possible to a horizontal position, forming a figure resembling the letter T. Plants in front that are trained to the rafters should be cut down almost to the bottom, and no more left than is merely sufficient to train them to the rafter. Only two shoots should again be permitted to grow on each plant on the back wall, and one on those of the front, and these may be allowed to run the whole height of the house before they are stopped. After the vine shoots are stopped (which is done by pinching off their tops), they will in general push out laterals at three or four eyes, on the upper part of the shoot. These laterals should not entirely be taken off, as it would cause more eyes lower upon the shoots to push out. It would therefore be prudent to permit the first laterals to grow twelve or fourteen inches, and then to pinch off their tops. These laterals, in their turn, will push out secondary laterals, which should be pinched off at the second or third joint, and in that way the sap may be diverted till the end of the season.

The shoots of the plants on the back wall must be brought down to a horizontal position, and cut so that the branches of each plant may reach within a foot of the other. If all the vines on the rafters have pushed vigorously, it will be proper to prune every other plant down to three or four eyes, and the rest to from twenty to twenty-five eyes each, the latter being intended to produce fruit, and the former to make bearing wood against another year. When the vines begin to push in the spring of the third year, the shoots of those on the back wall should not be allowed to stand nearer one another than a foot or fifteen inches, all the intermediate buds being carefully rubbed off. The shoots ought to be trained up perpendicularly, and however vigorous they may be, no more than one cluster should be allowed to remain on any of them: all of them may run up to the height of five or six feet before they are flopped. The shoots on the rafters, that were pruned to twenty or twenty-five eyes each, will probably push at all of them; but not more than five or seven shoots should be permitted to remain, even on the strongest; viz., a leading shoot, and two or three on each side. Care being taken to leave one shoot as near the bottom as possible, as the whole branch will require to be pruned down to this shoot next winter. Only one shoot should be left upon those vines that were pruned down to three or four eyes, at every other rafter; and this must be trained up the rafter as in the preceding year. At next pruning season all the shoots proceeding from the horizontal branches of the vines in the back wall should be pruned down to three or four eyes. The vines on the front which produced fruit should be pruned to their lowest shoot, which should be shortened, so as to leave four or five eyes. Those at every other rafter which were shortened the preceding year, and which were allowed to push one shoot, should now be pruned like the bearers of the former year; i.e., twenty or twenty-five eyes should be left on each. In the following and all succeeding seasons, these vines on the front will require a similar management, with this difference, that, as they acquire more strength, they may be permitted to push more shoots, and more clusters may be allowed to remain on each shoot; for, as the vines advance in age, they will certainly be enabled to produce every year for a certain period, a larger crop of fruit. The spurs of the vines on the back-wall, i.e., the shoots that were shortened to three or four eyes, should be allowed to push up one shoot: these shoots at next pruning season must be cut so as to leave a long one, viz., about four feet, and a short one, alternately. The long ones should be allowed to push five shoots (all the other buds being rubbed off), the four lateral of which should be cut down to two or three eyes each, at next pruning season, and the terminal one should be left about a foot and a half long. The short shoots between the long ones must constantly be pruned down to two or three eyes each, in order to keep up a proper succession of bottom wood. The pruning following season must be the same, with this difference, that the upright shoots, as they have acquired a foot and a half additional length, may be allowed to push seven shoots instead of five.

The principal kinds of vines (E) are, * the white muscat of Alexandria, * black damascus, * golden galli- cian, * white frontinac, * grilly frontinac, * black or purple frontinac, + blue or violet frontinac, +I red frontinac, + white sweet water, + black Hamburgh, +H red Hamburgh, or Gibraltar grape, * white Hamburgh, * malvoise or blue tokay, * genuine tokay, + flame-coloured tokay, + brick grape, + white muf cadine or chaffelas, + royal muscadine or d'arboye, +Malmsey grape, + claret grape, * Syrian, + Burgundy or Munier grape, + small black clutter, + large black clutter, + early black July grape or morillon, noir nati, + white parsley-leaved.

Gooseberries and currants may be pruned any time from the fall of the leaf, till their buds begin to grow berries and in the spring. If these bushes be not well pruned, the currants' fruit will neither be large nor well-flavoured. The principal thing to be attended to is, to keep them open; for they are very apt to become over-crowded with branches: all suckers therefore which arise from the root, or shoots which proceed from the main stem, should be removed, because they would only create confusion, by growing up into the heart of the bush. When last summer's shoots stand too thick, on the main branches, which is frequently the case, particularly with gooseberries, they should be thinned, and few either of them or of the main branches should be shortened, because the more they are shortened the more liable they are to run to wood. They who make use of garden-shears, for sake of expedition, which is too frequently the case, may save time, and make neat-looking bushes, but will be disappointed with respect to the quantity and quality of their fruit.

Sect. III. Flower Garden or Pleasure Ground.

Fibrous-rooted perennial plants may still be planted; likewise bulbous-rooted plants, such as tulips, hyacinths, &c.

Shrubs and ornamental or forest trees may be transplanted

(e) Those marked * are for a hot-house; those marked + are for a vinery; and those marked † are for a common wall. December, planted now or any time during the winter when the Kitchen Garden weather is open.

**Sect. IV. The Nursery.**

Transplant young trees and shrubs, and protect tender seedlings during severe weather.

**Sect. V. Green-House and Hot-House.**

The plants in the greenhouse should have air during the day, whenever the weather will permit, and should receive but little water. The plants in the hot-house should likewise receive air during the day in favourable weather, and fires must be put on every evening, but seldom need to be continued during the day, except the weather is very severe.

**DECEMBER.**

**Sect. I. Kitchen Garden.**

The cauliflower plants and lettuces planted under hot-bed frames, or under bell or hand-glasses, should be exposed to the air during the mild days, and protected during severe weather with a covering of mats or straw. In dry weather celery and cardoons should be earthed up, and endive tied up for blanching.

In this month there is nothing to be done either in the fruit garden, nursery, greenhouse, or hot-house, that has not already been taken notice of in the preceding months.

Here we shall add some observations on the construction of greenhouses and hot-houses.

A greenhouse constructed for the protection of such vegetables as cannot stand in the open air during winter, may vary in form and dimensions according to the fancy of the proprietor, and the number of plants it is intended to contain. When the front only is of glass, which formerly was the only, and even still is the prevalent, mode of constructing greenhouses, the pillars between the sashes ought to be as narrow as the weight they have to support will admit of, and formed so as to give the least possible obstruction to the light; they may be either of stone, brick, wood, or cast iron. The height of the sashes should equal if not exceed the width of the house, that a sufficient quantity of light may be thrown on the plants which stand near the back wall, otherwise they will lose colour, become unhealthy and deformed; for not only the colour, but the vigour, and even the form of vegetables, depends on the light. When one half or the whole of the roof is of glass, which ought to be the case, there is no necessity for attending to the proportion the height ought to bear to the width of the house. The ends of the house should also be of glass, unless when it is connected with a series of other buildings. The pots containing the plants are commonly set on benches, which gradually increase in height as they recede from the front; however, when the roof is of glass, the arrangement may be different. Every greenhouse ought to be furnished with flues; for though many winters may occur in which the application of fire-heat may not be necessary, yet such intense frosts at times prevail as would infallibly kill a great many of the plants: external coverings, it is true, are frequently made use of as a protection against the severity of the weather, but they do not answer the purpose equally well, for when the frost continues long they cannot be applied day and night without doing injury, by excluding air and light; the application of fire-heat is likewise necessary for banishing the damp, which very much injures and frequently destroys the plants, during long-continued, dull, rainy weather. The flues in greenhouse are frequently confined to the back wall, but they ought to pass in front of the house likewise, because the plants situated are most liable to be injured by the severity of the weather.

As fires are seldom required, and those but very slight ones, merely to banish frost and damp, it will not be necessary from economical motives to construct the flues, so as to throw off the greatest possible quantity of heat, they may therefore be concealed that they may not affect the appearance of the house.

Hot-houses for rearing plants which grow in warmer climates, or for forcing at an early period such vegetables as grow in the open air, vary considerably according to the different purposes for which they are intended. 1st, Conservatories, or dry stoves, so called because they are constructed without pits for containing tanners bark, oak leaves, or other fermentable substances, and in which the plants grow in the earth which forms the floor of the house, and not in pots. These are commonly of a considerable width and height, and are either covered entirely, or at least on the front, roof, and ends, with glass. 2dly, Hot-houses for rearing exotic plants, furnished with a pit containing tanners bark, oak leaves, heated sand, &c., in which pots containing the plants are plunged: these likewise are of considerable breadth and height, and have their front, roof, and ends, covered with glass. 3dly, Pine-houses which are furnished with a pit, as above: these are low, the roof being within a few feet of the surface of the pit, that the pine plants may be as near the light as possible, and the roof and part of the front only need be of glass.

Vine-houses are commonly constructed without pits, and are generally about 12 or 14 feet high, sometimes very narrow, at other times of considerable breadth; the former answer best for forcing at a very early period, and in both houses the vines are commonly trained both to the back and front.

Peach-houses are almost always constructed without pits, are of a moderate height, and vary in breadth. The peaches are trained either to the front or back, or to both; and sometimes they are planted in the middle of the house, and allowed to grow like standard fruit trees, in which case the house should be spacious.

Cherry and fig-houses are constructed nearly in the same way as peach-houses. The flues for warming all these ought to pass round the front as well as the back of the house, and ought to have as much of their surface exposed as possible; for the more of the surface of the flue comes in contact with the air of the house, the more readily the house will be warmed: therefore they ought not to be built in contact with the front or back walls when that can be avoided, but ought to be supported on pillars of brick, to keep them from resting on the ground.

The furnaces for containing the fuel are placed sometimes INDEX TO PART III.

A.

ANNUALS, when sown, No. 51, 76, 100, 101, 154

Apple trees, when pruned, 38

Apples, when gathered, 249

different kinds of, 251

Apricots, different kinds of, 250

Artichokes, when earthered up, 31

when dressed and planted, 136, 137

Jerusalem, when planted, 143

Asparagus, how sown and managed, 133

beds dressed, 248

B.

Beans, when sown, 23

when earthered up, 30

early kidney, 66

full crop of, 185

Blanch endive, 29

Bulbous roots, how protected in beds, 49

when planted, 50

when taken up, 205

C.

Cabbages, when planted, 26

when transplanted 27

Cardoons, when sown, 141

Carrots, when sown, 18, 44

Cauliflower, when to examine, 25

raised in a hot-bed, 69, 170, 224, 236

Celery, early crop, how raised, 73

Cherry trees, when pruned, 39

Cherry trees, different kinds of, No. 250

Crops, full, for the kitchen garden, 129

Cucumbers, early, how raised, 67, 91

E.

Engrafting of fruit trees, when performed, 113

history of, 114

method of performing, 115

different kinds of, 116—124

F.

Figs, method of pruning, 97

different kinds of, 253

Flowers, how protected in pots, 48

forced in hot houses, 52

Fruit trees, how to force the growth of, 46, 99

pruning of, 96

engrafting of, 113

planting, 150

protecting the flower, 151, 173

G.

Garden, kitchen, 17

Garlic, when planted, 86

Grapes, different kinds of, 259

Green-houses, construction of, 260

H.

Hot-houses, construction of, 260

Hot-beds, method of preparing, 32

I.

Inarching of fruit trees, 122

Inoculation of fruit trees, 215

L.

Lawns, dressing of, No. 54, 106

Leeks, how raised, 83

Lettuce, when sown, 24, 79, 167

M.

Melon seeds, when sown, 33, 91, 92,

topping, 93

impregnation of, 94

observations on, 95

treatment of, 184, 198

Mushroom-beds, how to manage, 32

preparation of, 238

N.

Nectarines, when pruned, 40

different kinds of, 250

Nursery, 59

O.

Onions, how raised, 83

early crop of, 223

time of taking up, 227

P.

Parsley, when sown, 21, 84

Peach trees, when pruned, 40

different kinds of, 250

Peas, when sown, 22

late crop of, 211

Pear trees, when pruned, 38

different kinds of, 252

Pine apples, management of, 65

stove for, 126

heat for, 182

how propagated, 218

Pine

| Pin apples, raised in water, | Seedlings, | |-----------------------------|-----------| | varieties of, | | | Plum trees, when pruned, | Shrubs, how managed, | | different kinds of, | Spinach, when sown, | | Potatoes, early, when planted, | winter crop of, | | full crop of, | Strawberries, forcing of the growth | | Pot-herbs, when sown, | time and mode of dressing, | | planted out, | plantations of, made, | | R. | different kinds of, | | Radishes, when sown, | Trees, roots of, how protected, | | horse, how propagated, | time proper for planting, | | Raspberries, when pruned and planted, | Trees, propagated by layers, | | S. | cuttings, | | Salad, small, | suckers, | | | air cautiously admitted to, | | | Turnips, full crop of, |

Index.

| Trees, propagated by layers, | No 61 | |-------------------------------|-------| | cuttings, | 62 | | suckers, | 63 | | Turnips, full crop of, | 201 |