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ARBA

Volume 2 · 1,532 words · 1815 Edition

ancient Geography, an island and city of Illyria, now Arbe, in the gulf of Quarnero. Of this island, which has been but slightly noticed by geographers, we have the following description by the abbé Fortis.

In the Roman times, it is probable that there were no other cities in Arbe but that which bears the name of the island, in the neighbourhood of which ancient monuments are frequently dug up.

This city of Arbe, though the capital of a small island, not above thirty miles round, wholly uncultivated, and uninhabitable in the highest part that faces the channel of Morlaccia, has always maintained itself with decorum. That it was inhabited by civilized people in the Roman times, is evident, by the inscriptions that have been frequently discovered there, and others still remaining at Arbe. In the lower times it suffered all the calamities to which the neighbouring countries were subjected, but it always recovered itself with honour even after dilution.

The archives of the community of Arbe contain some ancient papers that are truly valuable, and they are kept with great jealousy; by them it appears, that in the eleventh century, gold and silk were not rare among the inhabitants. Arbe was subject to the kings of Hungary; afterwards it became dependent on Venetian feudatories; and at last was taken under the immediate dominion of the most serene republic, by which a governor is appointed who has the title of count and captain. The number of people on the island does not much exceed three thousand souls, distributed in a few parishes, which might be officiated by a small number of priests: Yet, through a monstrous inconsistency that falls very heavy on the poor inhabitants, they have to maintain no less than three convents of friars, and as many of nuns, besides the considerable charge of near sixty priests, who have a very scanty provision.

The climate of Arbe is none of the happiest; the winter season is horrid, especially when agitated by the violent northerly winds, which sometimes transform the intermediate seasons into winter, and cause the summer itself to disappear. These furious winds do great damage to the island, particularly in the winter and spring. Two years ago, about twelve thousand sheep perished in one night, of cold, in the common pastures of the mountain; where, according to the custom over all Dalmatia, they are left in the open air the whole year round. The salt fog raised by the dread-

ful commotion of the waves, which often roar between the mountains of Arbe and the opposite Alps, in the narrow channel of Morlaccia, consumes all the buds of the plants and corn, if it happens to be driven upon the island by the wind; and it is followed by a cruel scarcity of every kind of product. This calamity communicates its baneful influence even to the flesh of the animals left on the pastures, that becomes ill tasted, in consequence of the bitternets and bad nourishment of the food. Abstracting from these irregularities, the air of Arbe is healthful; nor ought the constant summer fevers among the inhabitants to be attributed to its influence, as they are, more probably, derived from unwholesome food, and a way of life differing little from that of the Hottentots.

The appearance of the island is exceedingly pleasant. On the east it has a very high mountain, of the same substance as the Morlaccia, of which it was once a part. At the foot of this mountain, the rest of the island is extended to the westward, and divided into beautiful and fruitful plains interspersed with little hills fit to bear the richest products. At the extremity that looks to the north, a delightful promontory, called Loparo, stretches into the sea; it is crowned with little hills, which almost quite enclose a fine cultivated plain. Near this promontory are the two small islands of S. Gregorio and Goli, very useful to shepherds and fishers. The coast of Arbe, that faces the Morlaccia mountains, is quite steep and inaccessible; and the channel between them is extremely dangerous, being exposed to furious winds, and without a single port on either side. The long and narrow island of Dolin, lying parallel to the island of Arbe, along the coast of Barbado, forms a channel less dangerous, though by no means so secure as it is beautiful to look at. There are several harbours in the neighbourhood of the city of Arbe, by which the trade of the best part of the island is facilitated.

The city stands on a rising ground between two harbours, which form a peninsula; it contains about a thousand inhabitants, among whom are many noble families, but few of them are rich. Among the most remarkable curiosities of the island, the Arbegiani are proud of many egregious relics, and particularly of the head of S. Cristofano their protector; but the lovers of sacred antiquity will find something much more singular in the three heads of Shadrach, Meshach, and Abednego, which are venerated there with great devotion. Four of the principal gentlemen are keepers of the sanctuary, and to their care the precious records of the city are also committed. Among these records there is a transaction of 1018, by which the city of Arbe promises to the doge of Venice, Ottone Orseolo, a tribute of some pounds de ferta ferica, "of wrought silk;" and in case of contravention, pounds de auro obri- xo, "of pure gold."

In the last age there was a learned bishop of Arbe, named Ottavio Spaderi, who would not permit the relics of S. Cristofano to be exposed to the public veneration, on the solemnity of the saint's day, because he doubted of their authenticity. The mob rose, and was going to throw him down from the top of the hill on which the cathedral stands; nor did the tumult cease after the day was past. The government sent an armed vessel to deliver the prelate from the danger. he was in: and the pope thought proper to give him a more tractable spouse in Italy.

The nature of the soil of Arbe is not the same in every situation; nay it would be difficult to find a country where there is so great a variety in so little space. There is a very great difference between the ground of the extremity of the mountain above the channel of Barbado, and the sides of it on the one part towards the island, and on the other facing the ridge of Morlacka. Nor is the top of the mountain itself always of the same structure: for in some parts it is extended in a fine level plain, partly woody and partly cultivable; in other places it is quite rocky, and composed of bare marble. The ground at the foot of the mountain, where it stretches towards the shore, opposite to Jablanaz, is nothing but marble; and in the district of Barbado it is gravelly, and a good soil for vines. The wine of Barbado is of excellent quality, and in great estimation; hardly any other product is cultivated along that coast, as the vines succeed well, notwithstanding the negligent culture. Below the pretended ruins of Colento the land bears vines, olives, mulberry, and other fruit trees, and also corn in the lowest parts. All the lower part of the island is composed alternately of little hills and valleys, and of a substance for the most part very different from that of the mountain and its adjacencies. As the organization of the mountain is wholly of marble, so that of the hills is generally arenaceous. The whetstone forms a large part, and frequently contains opacities and lenticulars; the exterior stratum is commonly friable. The valleys, which according to appearances should be full of sand, are provided with an excellent soil, with such a mixture of very minute sand as is requisite to keep it light. Springs of fresh water are by nature well distributed over the island, and maintain a proper humidity when the summer is not excessively dry; so that the dark verdure of the hills covered with wood, the luxuriance of the vines, and freshness of the corn ground, form a spectacle extremely cheerful and agreeable.

The island of Arbe would have everything requisite for the subsistence of its small population, if the land was cultivated by a people less stupid and lazy. It produces, however, firewood, of which many cargoes are annually sent to Venice; corn, oil, excellent wine, brandy, and silk, since very ancient times; it also exports hides, wool, sheep, hogs, and horses of a good breed. There is also abundance of good salt made on the island; and the fishing of tunny and mackerel, notwithstanding it is managed in a slovenly and awkward manner, makes no inconsiderable article of trade to the Arbegiani, who, like all their neighbours, find their account in selling this commodity to strangers rather than to the Venetians. Yet, with all these natural products, the island is very far from being rich, or even in a tolerably flourishing state; because there is much land left uncultivated, and the peasants are lazy.