in Commerce, a soft downy substance found on the gossypium, or cotton-tree. See GOSSEPYUM, BOTANY Index.
Cotton is separated from the seeds of the plant by a mill, and then spun and prepared for all sorts of fine work, as stockings, waistcoats, quilts, tapestry, curtains, &c. With it they likewise make muslin; and sometimes it is mixed with wool, sometimes with silk, and even with gold itself.
The finest sort comes from Bengal and the coast of Coromandel.
Cotton makes a very considerable article in commerce, and is distinguished into cotton-wool and cotton-thread. The first is brought mostly from Cyprus, St John d'Acre, Smyrna, and the East and West Indies; the most esteemed is white. Those who buy it in bales should see that it has not been wet: moisture being very prejudicial to it.
Of cotton-thread, that of Damas, called cotton d'ounce, and that of Jerusalem, called bazas, are the most esteemed; as also that of the West India islands. It is to be chosen white, fine, very dry, and evenly spun. The other cotton threads are the half bazas, the rames, the beledin, and gondezel; the payas and mountains, the geneguins, the baquins, the joffeclaffars, of which there are two sorts. Those of India, known by the name of Tutucorin, Java, Bengal, and Surat, are of four or five sorts, distinguished by the letters A, B, C, &c. They are sold in bags, with a deduction of one pound and a half on each of those of Tutucorin, which are the dearest, and two pounds on each bag of the other sorts. For those of Fielebas, Smyrna, Aleppo, and Jerusalem, the deduction at Amsterdam is eight in the hundred for the tare, and two in the hundred for weight, and on the value one per cent, for prompt payment.
Cotton of Siam, is a kind of silky cotton in the Antilles, so called because the grain was brought from Siam. It is of an extraordinary fineness, even surpassing silk in fineness. They make hole of it there preferable to silk ones for their lustre and beauty. They sell from 10 to 12 and 15 crowns a pair, but there are very few made unless for curiosity.
The manner of packing Cotton as practised in the Antilles. The bags are made of coarse cloth, of which they Cotton, they take three ells and a half each; the breadth is one ell three inches. When the bag has been well soaked in water, they hang it up, extending the mouth of it to cross pieces of timber nailed to posts fixed in the ground seven or eight feet high. He who packs it goes into the bag, which is six feet nine inches deep, or thereabouts, and presses down the cotton, which another hands him, with hands and feet; observing to tread it equally everywhere, and putting in but little at a time. The best time of packing is in rainy moist weather, provided the cotton be under cover. The bag should contain from 300 to 320 pounds. The tare abated in the Antilles is three in the hundred. Cotton being a production applicable to a great variety of manufactures, it cannot be too much cultivated in our own plantations that will admit of it.
**Cotton-Spinning**, the art or process of reducing cotton-wool into yarn or thread.
The most simple method for this purpose, and the only one in use for a long time in this country, was by the hand upon the well-known domestic machine called a **one-thread wheel**. But as the demand for cotton-goods began to increase, other inventions were thought of for expediting this part of the manufacture. About 50 years ago, one Paul and others of London contrived an engine for a more easy and expeditious method of spinning cotton, and for which they obtained a patent; but the undertaking did not prove successful. Some years thereafter, various machines were constructed by different persons for facilitating the spinning of cotton; but without producing any very material or lasting advantage. At length, about the year 1767, Mr James Hargrave, a weaver in the neighbourhood of Blackburn in Lancashire, constructed a machine by which a great number of threads (from 20 to 80) might be spun at once, and for which he obtained his majesty's letters-patent. This machine is called a **jenny**, and is the best contrivance for spinning **woof** or **fibre** that has hitherto appeared. It is now commonly constructed for 84 threads; and with it one person can spin 100 English hanks in the day, each hank containing 840 yards.
**Carding** of cotton, as a preparation for spinning, used formerly to be performed by the hand, with a single pair of cards upon the knee; but this being a tedious method, ill suited to the rapid operations of the new spinning machines, other methods were contrived for affording a quicker and more adequate supply. The first improvement for this purpose was likewise made by Mr Hargrave; and consisted in applying two or three cards to the same board, and fixing them to a stool or stock; whence they obtained the name of **stock-cards**. With these, one woman could perform two or three times as much work as she could do before in the common way. A still more expeditious method of carding, however, by what are commonly called **cylinder cards**, was soon afterwards invented, and is that which is now most commonly practised; but as several persons lay claim to this invention, it is not easy to determine to whom in particular the merit of it is due.
The next and most capital improvements which this branch of manufacture received were from Mr Arkwright, a native of Lancashire, afterward Sir Richard Arkwright of Cromford in Derbyshire. He first brought forward his new method of spinning cotton in 1768, for which he obtained a patent in 1769. In 1775, he obtained another patent for engines which he had contrived to prepare the materials for spinning; though one of these patents, being challenged at law, was set aside some years before it expired. The result of Mr Arkwright's different inventions and improvements is a combination of machinery, by which cotton is **carded**, **roved**, and **spun**, with the utmost exactness and equality; and such a degree of perfection attained in spinning **warp**, as is not to be equalled in any other part of the world. To these improvements this country is entirely indebted for the great extent of its cotton manufactures; large buildings having been erected for that branch both in England and Scotland, many of which contain several thousands of spindles, each driven by one or more large water wheels; and some of such extent as to spin at the rate of one thousand yards of twist or warp yarn in the minute.
Other machines have been invented at different times, and a variety of improvements made by different mechanics and manufacturers; one of which in particular we must not omit to mention. It is called a **mule**, being a kind of mixture of machinery between the **warp-machine** of Mr Arkwright and the **woof-machine** or hand jenny of Mr Hargrave; and was also invented in Lancashire. This machine bids fair to be of great use in spinning cotton-yarn for muslins to a degree of fineness never before known in this country, being nearly equal in quality to those usually brought from India.
**Cotton-Mills**, are large buildings with peculiar machinery for carding, roving, and spinning cotton: (see the preceding article). These were entirely unknown in this country before the different inventions and improvements of Messrs Arkwright and Hargrave; since which time great numbers have been erected in England, many in Scotland, and some in Ireland.
The first erections of the kind were by Messrs Arkwright and Hargrave, both in the town of Nottingham, and both nearly at the same time. The engines were then driven by horses; but since that time they have been chiefly erected upon water-falls in different parts of the country; particularly the warp-machines, which are better adapted for being driven by water than any other. The most extensive of these is in the village and neighbourhood of Cromford in Derbyshire, and under the immediate inspection of Sir Richard Arkwright. The first that was erected in Scotland was for Mr Peter Brotherston, under the inspection and direction of Mr John Hackett from Nottingham; and is in the neighbourhood of Pennycook near Edinburgh. Since which time many have been erected in the neighbourhood of Glasgow, Paisley, Lanark, Perth, &c. Many are driven by steam-engines.
**General State of the Cotton Manufactory.** The facilities which the manufacturers of Great Britain had suddenly acquired, and the immense capitals which they have so recently laid out in expensive machinery and other heavy establishments for carrying on the cotton trade, are unparalleled in the annals of the world. Above 140 cotton mills are now (1787) built in Great Britain, of which nearly two-thirds have been erected within these seven years. Besides these, there are above 20,500 hand-mills or jennies for spinning. ning the flute for the twisted yarn spun by the water- mills.
Above a million of money was within this time funk in mills, hand engines, and other machines, in- cluding the grounds and necessary buildings.
Expence of water-mills, L.715,000 Ditto of hand jennies, houses, buildings, and auxiliary ma- chinery, supposed at least, 285,000
Total, L.1,000,000
A power had been also created of working nearly two millions of spindles; and men, women, and chil- dren were trained to this business, capable of carrying the cotton manufacture almost to any extent. In 1787, the power of spindles capable of being worked was estimated as follows:
In the water-mills, 286,000 In the jennies, 1,665,100
Total spindles, 1,951,100
In the branches applicable to muslin and calico, it was calculated that employment was given to 100,000 men and women, and at least 60,000 children; many of the latter having been taken from different parishes and hospitals in Great Britain.
The quantity of the raw material of cotton wool consumed in this manufacture, which did not amount to 6,000,000 pounds in 1781, and was only about 11,000,000 pounds five years ago, had amounted in the year 1787 to the enormous height of 22,000,000 lb. and upwards; and the astonishing rapidity of this in- crease is in some measure to be attributed to the exten- sion of these branches to the goods of India, particu- larly the calicoes and muslins.
British calicoes were first made in Lancashire about the year 1772, but the progress was slow till within these last 12 years. The quantity manufactured has since extended from about 50,000 to 1,000,000 pieces made in the course of a single year.
British muslins were not successfully introduced un- til the year 1784, and were carried to no great extent until 1785, after which period the progress during two years became rapid beyond all example. The acquisi- tion of cotton wool of a superior quality from Demer- ara and the Brazils, and the improvements made in the spinning fine yarns upon the mule jennies, had gi- ven a spring to this branch of the cotton manufacture, which extended it beyond what it was possible to have conceived. Above half a million pieces of muslin of different kinds, including shawls and handkerchiefs, were computed to be annually made in Great Britain; while the quantity not only increased daily with the new accession of powers that were bursting forth upon the country, but the quality was exceedingly improv- ed; and since a yearly supply of about 300 bales of East Indian cotton has been obtained by the way of Ostend, yarns have been spun, and muslins have been wove, equal to any from India. Nothing, therefore, but a fine raw material appeared wanting to enable the Bri- tish manufacturer to carry this branch to the greatest extent; and, of all others, it is that species of cotton goods which deserves most to be encouraged, because of the immense return it makes for labour more than any other branch of the cotton manufacture. East In- dia cotton wool has been spun into one pound of yarn worth five guineas; and when wove into muslin, and afterwards ornamented by children in the tambour, has extended to the value of £1.; yielding a return of 5900 per cent. on the raw material.
But the state of the raw materials, and the progres- sive and astonishing increase of this manufacture, will be best explained by what follows:
| Cotton Wool used in the Manufacture | Supposed Value when Manufactured | |-------------------------------------|----------------------------------| | 1781, lb. 5,101,920 | L.2,000,000 | | 1782, 11,206,810 | 3,900,000 | | 1783, 9,546,179 | 3,200,000 | | 1784, 11,280,238 | 3,950,000 | | 1785, 17,992,888 | 6,000,000 | | 1786, 19,151,867 | 6,500,000 | | 1787, 22,600,000 | 7,500,000 |
Such was the progress of the British cotton manu- factory till 1787; when, with establishments and me- chanical powers capable of bringing forward immense quantities of goods into the consumption, this manu- facture was checked by a great and sudden reduction of the prices of East India goods of the same species, which were sold above 20 per cent. on an average un- der the lowest prices at which the British manufacturer can afford to sell without loss.
This conduct in the East India Company quickly operated to the great prejudice of the British manu- factures; and there is no saying how far these might be reduced, should that company be allowed to press goods upon the market at prices which have no rela- tion to the original cost, and under circumstances where every idea of protecting duties is annihilated in the effect of the general system.
The home-manufacture of this article, however, in all its different branches, has been greatly extended, and is likely to be carried on with greater advantage to the manufacturer than ever it was before.
Lavender Cotton. See SANTOLINA, BOTANY Index.
Philosophic Cotton, a name given to the flowers of zinc, on account of their white colour, extreme light- ness, and resemblance to cotton.
Flax made to resemble Cotton. See FLAX.
Silk-Cotton. See BOMBAX, BOTANY Index.
Cotton Weed. See GNAPHALIUM, BOTANY Index.
Cotton, Sir Robert, a most eminent English anti- quarian, descended from an ancient family, was born in 1570. In his 18th year he began to collect ancient records, charters, and other MSS. Camden, Selden, and Speed, acknowledged their obligations to him in their respective works. He was highly distinguished by Queen Elizabeth, and by James I. who created him a baronet. He wrote many things himself; but our principal obligations to him are for his valuable li- brary, consisting of curious manuscripts, &c. which he was 40 years in collecting. At his death in 1621, he left the property of it to his family, though designed for public use. A large accession was made to this li- brary by private benefactions before the death of the founder, and afterwards by the purchases of his heirs, and donations of others, who added to it a great number of books, chiefly relating to the history and antiquities of our own nation. An act of parliament was obtained, at the request of Sir John Cotton, in 1790, for preserving it after his decease, under the above denomination, for public use. It is now fixed in the British Museum. For statutes relating to it, see 12 and 13 W. III. c. 3, and 5 Anne cap. 30.
Charles, a burlesque poet, was descended of a good family, and lived in the reign of Charles II. and James II. His most celebrated piece is Scarronides, or Travellie of the first and fourth books of the Æneid. But though, from the title, one would be apt to imagine it an imitation of Scarron's famous Travellie of the same author, yet upon examination, it will be found greatly to excel not only that, but every other attempt of the same kind that has been hitherto made in any language. He has also translated several of Lucian's dialogues, in the same manner, under the title of The Scoffer Scoff'd;—and written another poem of a more serious kind, entitled The Wonders of the Peak. The exact period of either Mr Cotton's birth or his death, is nowhere recorded; but it is probable the latter happened about the time of the revolution. Neither is it better known what his circumstances were with respect to fortune: they appear, however, to have been easy, if one may judge from the turn of his writings, which is such as seems scarcely possible for any one to indulge whose mind was not perfectly at ease. Yet there is one anecdote told of him, which seems to show that his vein of humour could not restrain itself on any consideration, viz. that in consequence of a single couplet in his Virgil Travellie, wherein he has made mention of a peculiar kind of ruff worn by a grandmother of his who lived in the Peak, he lost an estate of 40l. per annum; the old lady, whose humour and silly disposition he could by no means have been a stranger to, being never able to forgive the liberty he had taken with her; and having her fortune wholly at her disposal, although she had before made him her sole heir, altered her will, and gave it away to an absolute stranger.