the metropolis of Ireland, the second city in his majesty's dominions, and esteemed the fifth for magnitude in Europe, is situated in the province of Leinster, in the county of Dublin, at the bottom of a large bay. The river Liffey, which here falls into the ocean, divides the town into two nearly equal parts. Formerly the city of Dublin was confined to the south side of the river. It was a place of great antiquity. Ptolemy, who flourished in the reign of Antoninus Pius, about the year 140, says, it was anciently called Achedel. In 155, Alpinus, whose daughter Auliana was drowned in the Liffey, changed the name from Achedel to Auliana. It was afterwards named Dublana, and Ptolemy calls it Eblana. Dublana, whence comes Dublinum and Dublin, is evidently derived from Dub-leana, "the place of the black harbour or lake;" or rather "the lake of the sea," the bay of Dublin being frequently so called. This city has had a variety of names. The Irish call it Drom-choll-coil, "the brow of a hazel wood;" and in 181, Eogan king of Munster being on a royal tour, paid a visit to this place, which was then called Atha Cliath Dubh-Line, "the passage of the ford of hurdles over the black pool:" the harbour of Dublin was likewise known by the name of Lean-Cliath, or Lean-Cliath, from Lean or Leam, "a harbour;" and from Cliath or Cliaib, which literally signifies "a hurdle or any thing made of wicker work;" it also signified certain weirs formed with hurdles, and placed in rivers and bays by the ancient Irish for the purpose of taking fish: whence any river, or bay, wherein these weirs were fixed had the name of Cliath or Cliaib, annexed to it, to signify the establishment of a fishery. Dublin, therefore, being originally built on or near one of these harbours, harbours, was anciently called Baly-lean-Cliath, that is, "the town on the fishing harbour." It is described at the present day in the Irish language by the appellations of Ath-Cliath, "the ford of hurdles," and Bally-ath-Cliath, "the town of the ford of hurdles," the inhabitants having formerly had access to the river by hurdles laid on the low marshy grounds adjoining the water; and this name was also extended to the north side of the river, from a temporary bridge of hurdles thrown over the Anna Liffey, a corruption of Auin Louiffa, or "the swift river," so termed from the rapidity of the mountain floods. This side was enlarged by Mac Turkill the Danish prince, who notwithstanding, fixed his habitation on the south side, and abandoned the northern town; which, from the original country of the invaders, was called Eoifmantown, since corrupted to Oxmantown. King Edgar, in the preface to his charter dated 964, mentions Ireland with its most noble city (nobilissima civitas) of Dublin. By the Fingalians it is called Divilin, and by the Welch Dinas Dulín or the city of Dulín.
In 448, Alpin Mac Eachard, king of Dublin, and all his subjects, were converted to Christianity by St Patrick.
In the year 498, the Ostmen or Danes having entered the Liffey with a fleet of 60 sail, made themselves masters of Dublin and the adjacent country, and soon after environed the city with walls. About 1170 Dermot Mac Murrough, king of Leinster, having quarrelled with the other princes of the kingdom, a confederacy was formed against him by Roderick O'Conor, monarch of Ireland. Dermot applied to Henry II. king of England, who sent over a number of English adventurers, by whose assistance he was reinstated in his dominions; and in the year 1171, the descendants of the Danes still continuing to hold possession of Dublin, it was besieged and taken by a powerful party of the English under Raymond le Gros. Mac Turkill the Danish king escaped to his shipping; he returned, however, soon after with a strong fleet to recover the city, but was killed in the attempt, and in him ended the race of easterling princes in Ireland.
In 1172, Henry II. landed at Waterford, and obtained from Richard Earl Strongbow (who married the daughter of Dermot Mac Murrough, and by compact was his successor) a surrender of the city of Dublin, where he built a pavilion of wicker work near St Andrew's church, then situated where Castlemarket lately stood, and there entertained several Irish princes, who voluntarily submitted to him on condition of being governed by the same laws as the people of England. Henry also held a parliament here. In 1173 he granted his first charter to Dublin, and by divers privileges encouraged a colony from Bristol to settle here.
In 1210, upwards of 20 Irish princes swore allegiance to King John at Dublin; engaging to establish the English laws and customs in the kingdom; and in the same year courts of judicature were instituted. In 1216, magna charta was granted to the Irish by Henry III. an entry of which was made in the red book of the exchequer at Dublin. In 1217, the city was granted to the citizens in fee-farm at 200 marks per annum; and in 1227 the above monarch ordained that the charter granted by King John should be kept inviolably. In 1404, the statutes of Kilkenny and Dublin were confirmed in a parliament held at this city under the earl of Ormond. The charter of the city of Dublin was renewed in 1609 by James I.
The civil government of the city was anciently under the management of a provost and bailiffs; in 1308, John le Decer was appointed the first provost, and Richard de St Olave and John Stakebold bailiffs. In 1409, the title of the chief magistrate was changed to that of mayor, when Thomas Cufack was appointed to the office, Richard Bove and Thomas Shortall being bailiffs; the office of bailiffs was changed to sheriffs in 1547. In 1660, Charles II. gave a collar of SS. and a company of foot guards to the mayor; and in 1665, this monarch conferred the title of lord mayor on the chief magistrate, to whom he also granted 500l. per annum in lieu of the foot company. Sir Daniel Bellingham was the first lord mayor of Dublin; Charles Lovet and John Quellth were sheriffs the same year. In 1672, Arthur earl of Essex introduced new rules for the better government of the city; and in 1683 the Tholsel was built for the purpose of the magistrates meeting to hold their courts, assemblies, &c.
In the 10th century, after the fortifications of Dublin were repaired by the Ostmen, the walls of the city, including those of the castle, did not occupy more than an Irish mile; they extended from Winetavern gate to Auden's arch, and were continued from thence to where Newgate formerly stood; and from a plan published by John Speed in 1610, it appears that they were continued to Ormond's gate, or, as it has been since called, Wormwood gate; from thence to the old bridge, and along the banks of the river to a very large portal called Newman's tower, nearly in the present site of the south entrance of Essex bridge; and from Newman's tower in an angular direction to Dame's gate, at the west end of Dame's street. From the gate at the southwest angle of the castle the wall ran to Nicholas gate, and was continued from thence to Newgate. The principal streets without the walls were, on the west, New row, Francis street, Thomas street, and James's street; on the fourth were Patrick street, Bride street, and Ship street; and on the east, Dame street, George's lane, and Stephen street. That space of ground now occupied by Crane lane, Temple bar, Fleet street, Lazar's hill, or, as it is now called, South Townend street, Crampton, Ashtons, George's, and Sir John Rogerson's quays, &c. was then overflowed by the Liffey. On the north side of the river there were only Church street, Mary's lane, Hammond lane, and Pill lane, then built but on one side as far as Mary's abbey, which terminated the extent of that part of the town to the eastward; Grange Gorman, Stoney-batter, now called Manor street, and Glasmanogue, were then villages at some distance from the city; and at the latter the sheriffs have held their courts in times of the plague, as being remote from the stage of infection. In 1664 the inhabitants being numbered amounted to 2565 men and 2986 women, Protestants; and 1202 men and 1406 women, Roman Catholics; making in the whole 8159.
By comparing this account of the ancient state and boundaries of the metropolis with the following description of its present extent, population, and magnificence, Dublin. nificence, an idea will be readily formed of the amazing increase and improvement it has experienced within the course of a century.
Dublin is seated in view of the sea on the east, and a fine country which swells into gently-rising eminences on the north and west, while it towers boldly up in lofty mountains that bound the horizon on the south. The city itself cannot be seen to full advantage on entering the harbour: but the approach to it from thence exhibits a fine prospect of the country for improvement and cultivation, interspersed with numerous villas, that have a most agreeable effect to enliven this delightful scene, which, beginning at the water's edge, is continued all over the coast to the northward of the bay as far as the eye can reach, and is finely contrasted by a distant view of the Wicklow mountains to the south, where the conical hills, called the Sugar Loaves, contribute not a little, by the singularity of their appearance, to embellish the landscape, so extensive and picturesque as not to be equalled by any natural scenery in Europe, but the entrance of the bay of Naples, to which it bears a very striking resemblance.
The form of Dublin is nearly square, a figure that includes the largest area proportioned to its circumference. From the royal hospital at Kilmainham, at the western extremity of the town, to the east end of Townsend street, the length is two miles and a half, and its greatest breadth is computed to be of the same extent: hence the city is about 10 miles in circumference. Its increase within the last twenty years has been amazing: it now contains about 22,000 houses, whose inhabitants are estimated at 156,000.
Dublin, with respect to its streets, bears a near resemblance to London. Some of the old streets were formerly narrow: but this defect is now in a great measure remedied by an act of parliament, passed in 1774, for opening the public avenues, taking down sign posts, palisades, penthouses, &c. new paving the streets, and flagging the foot passages: and, in 1785, another act passed for the better paving, cleansing, and lighting the city; in consequence of which an additional number of globes with double burners were put up at the distance of 36 feet from each other. These necessary improvements contribute exceedingly to the beauty and convenience of the metropolis: the new streets are wide and commodious, the houses lofty, uniform, and elegant; nor are several of the old streets totally deficient in these respects; Sackville street, or the Mall, which, though built upwards of 40 years ago, has been included in the number of our new streets by all the late geographers (a self-evident proof that these writers had not even seen the city), is a noble avenue, with a gravel walk in the centre, enclosed by a wall of about three feet high; this walk is 36 feet and a half broad, and the distance between it and the palisades fronting the houses, on either side, is 42 feet and a half: when the new customhouse is completed, this street will be then a most desirable situation for wholesale merchants, not only on account of its proximity to that building, but its great depth in the rear. Some years ago, it was esteemed one of the finest public avenues in Europe: many of the new streets, however, in this city are now much superior to it in the magnificence and uniformity of the houses. Among these, on the north side of the river, in the same quarter with Sackville street, are Gardiner's row, North Great George's street, Cranby row, Cavendish row, and Palace row: the last three form a superb square, having the garden of the lying-in hospital in the centre: the old wall that encompassed the garden has been lately taken down: there is now a full view of this delightful spot surrounded with iron palisades, and upwards of 100 globes with double burners disposed at equal distances, which added to the globes from the surrounding houses, have a most brilliant effect. This square, which for its size, is not perhaps to be equalled, has lately received the name of Rutland square, in compliment to his grace the present duke of Rutland, who contributed munificently towards the improvements in the enclosure of the new garden, and the erecting an elegant edifice for a ball and supper rooms, now nearly finished, situated to the east of the hospital.
Among the new streets and buildings on the south side of the river, those wherein persons of distinction reside, lie chiefly to the eastward of the college and Stephen's green; which last, though it does not rank with the new buildings, possesses much grandeur and elegance, being one of the largest squares in Europe: it is an English mile in circumference, surrounded by a gravel walk planted on each side with trees; within this walk is a smooth level meadow, having in the centre an equestrian statue of the late king: there are several fine edifices, though all almost differing in the style of their architecture; this variety, however, is esteemed by many rather a beauty than a defect: but, besides the other streets and buildings in this quarter there is a new square which will be nearly as extensive as Stephen's green, called Merrion square; it was laid out some years ago by the late Lord Fitzwilliam; the buildings are now considerably advanced, and great encouragement has been given by the present noble proprietor: the houses on the north side, which is quite finished, are uniform and lofty; most of them being carried up with hewn stone to the first story, gives the whole an air of strength, beauty, and magnificence. At the south-west angle of Stephen's green, a new street has been also opened, called Harcourt street, in which are several elegant structures that merit notice, particularly the town residence of the right honourable Lord Earlsford.
The principal entrance to the walks of Stephen's green is on the west side opposite the end of Yorkstreet (which may properly be classed among the new streets), as all the old houses have been pulled down and modern buildings erected in their room. Those parts of the city inhabited by merchants and traders begin to wear a new face; and amongst this number the new buildings of Dame street on the south side, exhibit an extensive, uniform, and beautiful range of houses all of an equal height; the shop doors and windows are formed by arches, exactly similar in their construction and ornaments, which are simply elegant; when the other side of this street shall be rebuilt, it may be justly pronounced one of the first trading streets in Europe; and Parliament street, which was built some years ago, is now nearly equal to any trading street in London.
The river Liffey, being banked in through the whole whole length of the town, exhibits spacious and beautiful quays, where vessels below the bridges load and unload before the merchants doors and warehouses: it is navigable as far as a bridge near the west end of the new custom-house. This bridge, which is a very elegant structure, was built since the year 1790. Essex bridge was first built in 1681, and took its name from the unfortunate earl of Essex, then viceroy of Ireland. It was taken down in 1753, and rebuilt in an elegant form, after the model of Westminster bridge, but much better proportioned, and on a more secure foundation. It has five arches, the buttresses between which support semicircular niches that project from the parapet; there are balustrades between these niches, and continued to the ends of the bridge, which is commodiously flagged for foot passengers; the whole constructed with hewn stone in a very fine taste. There are four bridges besides the two already mentioned; three of which have nothing to recommend them, further than the antiquity of the Old Bridge, which was erected in this city at a very early period, when it had the name of Dublin Bridge; it was rebuilt in 1428, since which time it received its present title. Bloody bridge, built in 1671, was originally constructed with wood, and derives its present harsh appellation from an attempt to break it down, wherein four persons were killed. Ormond bridge was built in 1684, during the Ormond administration. Arran bridge, now called Queen's bridge, was erected in the same year; but, being destroyed by the floods in 1763, was rebuilt of hewn stone, and finished in 1768. It consists of three arches, with flagged foot passages, stone balustrades and ornamental decorations, in a handsome light style, which has been much admired.
This city has 2 cathedrals, 18 parish churches, 2 chapels of ease, 15 Roman Catholic chapels, 6 meeting houses for Presbyterians, 1 for Anabaptists, 4 for Methodists, 2 for Quakers, a church for French Calvinists, a Danish and a Dutch church, and a Jewish synagogue.
Christ church, or the Holy Trinity, built in 1038 by Donat bishop of Dublin, to whom Sitricus the son of Amlave king of the Ostmen of Dublin granted the site for that purpose, stands on the summit of the rising ground at the head of Winetavern street. It is a venerable Gothic pile; and its present appearance evinces its antiquity. St Patrick's cathedral, first built by Archbishop Comyn in 1190; and decorated by Archbishop Minot in 1370 with a steeple, on which a lofty spire was erected in 1750, is also a fine Gothic structure; it stands, on the east side of Patrick's street; the monuments here are more numerous than in Christ church; and the steeple is the highest in the city.
St Werburgh's church was originally built in a very early age. In 1301, when a great part of the city was consumed by an accidental fire, this church suffered in the conflagration: it was burnt a second time in 1754 and repaired in its present beautiful form in 1759. The front and steeple are admired for their elegance, lightness, and symmetry: the spire is a fine octagon supported by eight pillars; and a gilt ball terminates the whole, being 160 feet from the ground. Catherine's church, first built in 1105, and re-edified in its present form in 1769, is situated on the south side of Thomas's street. St Thomas's church is the latest foundation of the kind in this city, having been begun in the year 1758, and finished and consecrated in 1762. It is situated on the west side of Marlborough street, opposite Gloucester street, to which it forms an elegant termination. The other churches in this city are; on the north side of the river, Mary's, Michan's, and Paul's; on the south side, James's, Luke's, Kevin's, Peter's, Bride's, Nicholas within, Audron's, Michael's, Mark's, Anne's, John's, and Andrew's: this last is called also the Round church, from its form being exactly circular: most, if not all the others were built in an early age: many, however, have been since re-edified, and assumed a more modern form; some of these are not totally devoid of elegance, particularly Anne's. St John's in Fithamble street was rebuilt in 1773, and has now a handsome front of hewn stone decorated with columns supporting a pediment. Besides these churches, Dublin is adorned with several other public buildings; the most remarkable of which are the following: The cattle, the residence of the chief governor, built in 1213 by Henry de Londres, was formerly moated and flanked with towers; but the ditch has been long since filled up, and the old buildings razed, the chapel and wardrobe tower excepted, which still remain: Birmingham tower was rebuilt in 1777, and is now called Harcourt tower. The cattle at present consists of two courts, the principal of which is an oblong square formed by four ranges of building: within a few years, in the middle of the south range, a handsome edifice called Bedford tower has been erected; the front is decorated with a small arcade of three arches, over which is a colonnade supporting a pediment, from whence rises an octagonal steeple crowned with a small cupola and gilt ball in a light pleasing style. This tower, which fronts the entrance to the viceroy's apartments, is connected with the buildings on each side by two fine gates; over that on the right hand is a statue of Fortitude; and over the left gate, which is the grand portal to the upper court, is the statue of Justice. In the lower court are the treasury and other offices, with military stores, an arsenal and armory for 40,000 men, and a barrack in which a captain's detachment of infantry are stationed. Between this barrack and the arsenal is the cattle garden; opposite to which, at the rear of the lord lieutenant's apartments, is a range of building called the Garden front, erected about the year 1749, finished in mountain stone, ornamented by semi-columns of the Ionic order, and the windows embellished with cornices and architraves, in a fine taste. The hall room is now titled St Patrick's Hall. The viceroy's body guard consists of a captain, two subalterns, and sixty private men, with a subaltern's guard of horse. The parliament house, a most superb structure, is situated on the north side of College green; it was begun in 1729, finished in 10 years, and cost 40,000l. It is built with Portland stone, and the front formed by a grand portico of Ionic columns in the most finished style of architectural elegance: the internal parts correspond with its outward magnificence; and the manner in which the inside is lighted is universally admired. The house of commons is an octagon, covered with a dome supported by columns of the Ionic order, that rise from an amphitheatrical gallery balustraded with iron scroll-work; this room is admirably well adapted Dublin. to its purpose. The house of lords is an oblong room, spacious and lofty, and ornamented in a superb manner; it is also judiciously adapted for the reception of the august assembly which meet there: among other decorations are two very fine pieces of tapestry, representing the battle of the Boyne and siege of Derry. By order of both houses of parliament, a grand new front has been erected on the east side of this magnificent pile; and preparations are making (1790) to front the north and west sides in a similar manner, from a design of Mr Gandon's: thus insulated, the whole will form a suite of senatorial apartments matchless in elegance and convenience (A).
The college founded by Queen Elizabeth in 1591 is situated at the east end of College green. It is a most beautiful structure, consisting of two spacious squares, the first of which contains the refectory, the old hall and chapel, and the new theatre for lectures and examinations; the front of this last building is finely decorated with Corinthian columns supporting a pediment; and over the front of the old hall, on the east side of this square, a handsome steeple rises crowned with a cupola. In the other square, which consists partly of brick buildings for the students, there is a superb library, extending through its whole length on the south side: behind this square there is a fine park. The west side of the first square, which is built with Portland stone, forms the grand front, upwards of 300 feet in length, ornamented with Corinthian pillars and other decorations in a very fine taste. At a small distance to the south side of this front is an elegant edifice in which the provost resides. The printing office is a neat handsome structure on the north side of the park; and opposite to it is the anatomy house, in which are to be seen the celebrated wax models of the human figure, executed at Paris by M. Douane, purchased by the right honourable the earl of Shelburne, and presented to this university. The college of Dublin is an university in itself, consisting of a provost, vice provost, 7 senior and 15 junior fellows, and 17 scholars of the house; the number of students is generally about 400: it has also professors in divinity, common and civil law, physic, Greek, modern languages, mathematics, oriental tongues, history and oratory, modern history, natural philosophy, anatomy and surgery, chemistry and botany. His royal highness the duke of Gloucester is chancellor, and his grace the lord primate of Ireland vice chancellor; the visitors are the chancellor (or, in his absence, the vice chancellor) and the archbishop of Dublin.
The Royal Exchange, situated on Cork hill, was begun in 1769, and opened for business in 1779; the expense, amounting to 40,000l. being defrayed by lottery schemes, conducted by the merchants of Dublin with an integrity that did them honour. The building is nearly a square, having three fronts of Portland stone in the Corinthian order, and crowned in the midst with a fine dome, which is supported on the inside by 12 Composite fluted pillars that form a circular walk in the centre of the ambulatory: above these pillars are 12 circular windows, and the ceiling of the dome, which is ornamented with stucco, in the mosaic style, has also a large window in the middle that illuminates most of the building. Opposite the north entrance, in the circular walk, is a statue of his present majesty George III. in a Roman military habit; it is executed in bronze by Van Noft, and elevated on a white marble pedestal. In a niche on the staircase leading to the coffee room is a white marble statue of the late Dr Charles Lucas, executed by Smith. The north front, which commands a fine view of Parliament street and Essex bridge, is embellished by a range of six columns and their correspondent pilasters, supporting a grand pediment with a balustrade on each side: a flight of stone steps leads from the street to the entrance, which is by three fine iron-railed gates: the west front varies but little from the north, except in the want of a pediment, and having only three steps ascending to the entrance, the ground on that side being nearly on a level; this front is opposite the east end of Castle street, near the principal entrance to the castle.
The hospital for lying-in women, founded by Dr Bartholomew Mofle, and opened in 1757, stands on the north side of Great-Britain street. The building is extremely light and elegant; a beautiful steeple rises in the centre, and the wings are formed by semicircular colonnades on each side. Adjoining the east colonnade is the Rotunda, where balls and assemblies are held, and concerts performed, for the benefit of the charity: close to it are now erecting the grand suit of apartments before mentioned. The garden at the rear of the hospital is laid out in a good taste.
The Blue-coat hospital was founded on the west side of Queen street by Charles II. in 1670, for educating the children of reduced freemen of the city: but the original building being greatly decayed, was taken down, and the new Blue-coat hospital, situated in Oxmantown green, was begun in 1773. The front is enriched by four Ionic columns, supporting a pediment in the centre, over which the steeple rises, embellished with Corinthian and Composite columns in an admired taste. Connected with the front by circular walls ornamented with balustrades and niches, are the school on one side and the church on the other: these form two well proportioned wings; they are of a similar construction; and each is crowned with a small steeple or turret, corresponding with the rest in uniform harmony and beauty.
The Barracks, the foundation of which was laid in 1704, are esteemed the largest and most commodious in Europe. They consist of four squares, situated at the west end of the town, on the north side of the river. The royal square in the centre, with the horse barrack and the little square on each side, form a spacious and extensive front to the south: the palatine, now called the new square, is opposite to Oxmantown green; it has been lately rebuilt with hewn stone in a very elegant manner.
(A) Since the union of Ireland with Great Britain, this building being no longer necessary as a place of meeting for the Irish legislative body, now incorporated in the imperial parliament, has been converted into apartments for the national bank. The royal hospital at Kilmainham for the support of invalids of the Irish army was founded by King Charles II. on a plan similar to that of Chelsea in England. The building was completed in 1683, and cost upwards of 23,500l. It is situated at the west end of the town, on a rising ground near the south side of the river, from whence there is an easy ascent to it through several rows of tall trees. This edifice is of a quadrangular form, enclosing a spacious area handsomely laid out in grass plots and gravelled walks: an arcade is carried along the lower story in each square to the entrance of the hall and chapel, which are both curiously decorated; in the former are several whole length portraits of royal personages and other distinguished characters.
Dr. Stevens's Hospital, the foundation of which was laid in 1720, is a neat quadrangular building, pleasantly situated on the banks of the river near the west end of James's street, from whence a gravelled walk leads by a gentle descent to the entrance of the hospital, and is continued from thence to the water's edge.
The Linen Hall, at the north end of Linen Hall street which was opened at the public expence in 1728, for the reception of linen cloths brought to the Dublin market, is a handsome building, lately enlarged with treble its number of former rooms, which furnish a new proof of commercial prosperity.
The New Prison in Green street, the first stone of which was laid in 1773, is a large quadrangular structure, designed and executed under the direction of the late Mr. Cooley. The east front consists of a centre break of mountain stone rusticated and crowned by a pediment, with a plain facade of black limestone on each side; and at the external angles of the building are four round towers.
There are many other public edifices in this city and its environs which merit particular notice. The Hospital for Lunatics in Weff Bow lane, founded by Dean Swift, and opened in 1757; the Hibernian school in the Phoenix Park, and the Marine School on Sir John Rogerson's Quay, the first for educating the poor children of soldiers, and the other for bringing up to the sea service the sons of deceased or disabled seamen; the Hospital for Incurables in South Townend street; Mercer's Hospital in Stephen street; the Meath Hospital on the Coombe; and Simpson's Hospital in Great Britain street, the last of which was established for the reception of blind and gouty men; are all handsome edifices constructed of hewn stone in the modern style.
To these public buildings may be added St Nicholas's Hospital in Francis street; the Infirmary for sick and wounded soldiers of the army, and the Foundling Hospital in James's street; the Magdalen Asylum in Leeson street; and the House of Industry in Channel row; the halls for corporations (particularly the Weavers Hall on the Coombe, over the entrance of which is a statue of his late majesty George II.); the Tholsel, the old Four Courts; the old Cuffthouse; and several others. The Charitable Infirmary, which was first opened in 1728 and rebuilt in 1741, stood on the Inn's Quay, but has been lately pulled down, together with most of the houses on that quay, where the new courts of justice are to be erected; and the benefits of this humane institution are now dispensed to the public at a house taken for that purpose in Jervis street.
The new courts of justice, on the north side of the river, form a principal ornament to the metropolis, and are from a design of Mr Gandon's, as well as the new Cuffthouse on the north wall. The front of the latter extends 375 feet, enriched with arcades and columns of the Doric order, crowned with an entablature: the centre has a portico finished with a pediment, in which is a bas relief of emblematical figures alluding to commerce: over the pediment is an attic story; and a magnificent dome finishes the centre, wherein is a pedestal supporting a statue of Commerce; the key stones over the entrances, and in the centre of the pavilions, are decorated with emblematical heads representing the produce of the principal rivers of Ireland: the south or front to the river, with the arms of Ireland over each pavilion, is of Portland stone: the whole, being formed of large and striking parts, adds much to the picturesque scene of the river, and will remain a lasting monument of reputation to the several artists employed in this superb building.
The playhouses, considered as public buildings, have nothing to recommend them to notice. One only, viz. the old house, now the theatre-royal, in Smock-alley, is kept open by Mr Daly; who, in consequence of a bill passed in the Irish parliament for the regulation of the stage, enjoys the exclusive privilege of managing and directing the theatrical exhibitions in this metropolis. The playhouse in Crow street, which formerly possessed the distinction of theatre-royal, has been shut up there several years past.
But a minute description of every public edifice would occupy more room than this publication admits, not to mention the several private houses justly admired for their elegance. Among these are,
Leinster House, the town residence of his grace the duke of Leinster. The entrance to this princely mansion is from Kildare street, through a grand gateway of rustic stone work, into a spacious court which forms a segment of a circle before the principal front. The inside of this magnificent structure is equal to its exterior appearance; the hall is lofty and noble; and the apartments, which are decorated and furnished in a splendid taste, are enriched with several very valuable paintings. The garden front, plain yet bold, possesses a pleasing simplicity; the garden is spacious and elegant, with a beautiful lawn in the centre. The whole of this building is inferior to few private edifices in the British dominions.
The earl of Charlemont's house is finely situated in the middle of Palace row, on an eminence exactly fronting the centre of the garden at the rear of the lying-in hospital. The front is built with hewn stone brought from Arklow, superior to that of Portland. The inside of this house is superb and convenient: the hall ceiling is supported by columns; some of the apartments are decorated with a select but choice collection of paintings of the best masters; among which are one of Rembrandt's finest pictures, representing Judas repenting and casting the silver pieces on the ground; a portrait of Caesar Borgia, by Titian; and the Lady's Last Stake by Hogarth, &c. &c. The library is esteemed one of the finest apartments in Dublin, and contains a very valuable collection of the best authors. At one end of it is an antichamber, with a fine statue in white marble of the Venus de Medicis, by Wilton; and Dublin, and at the other end are two small rooms, one a cabinet of pictures and antiquities, the other of medals: it is situated at the rear of the house, and connected with it by a corridor, in which are some handsome statues and Egyptian curiosities.
Dublin, which is the seat of government and of the chief courts of justice, has received many charters and ample privileges from the kings of England since the reign of Henry II, who introduced the English laws into this kingdom. Richard II. erected it into a marquisate in favour of Robert de Vere earl of Oxford, whom he also created duke of Ireland. It is an archiepiscopal see, and returns with the university and the county fix members to parliament. The civil government of Dublin is executed by a lord mayor, recorder, two sheriffs, twenty-four aldermen, and a common council formed of representatives from the twenty-five corporations. Every third year the lord mayor, in conformity with an old charter, perambulates the bounds of the city and its liberties; and formerly the freemen of the several corporations, armed and mounted on horseback, were accustomed to attend the chief magistrate on this occasion, which was titled riding the franchises: but as this custom was productive of idleness, intoxication, and riots, among the lower orders of the people, it has been of late years very properly laid aside. Besides the silk, woollen, and worsted manufactures carried on in that quarter of the suburbs called the Earl of Meath's Liberty, and which have been considerably improved within these few years, other branches of useful manufactures are establishing in different parts of the metropolis; and though the trade of Dublin has heretofore consisted chiefly in the importation of foreign commodities, yet, now that the restrictions on their woollens and most of their other goods are removed, it is hoped the daily enlargement of their export trade will cause a proportionable increase of national opulence.
Dublin would have had a commodious station for shipping, were it not that the harbour is choked up with two banks of sand, called the North and South Bulls, which prevent vessels of large burden from coming over the bar. This, however, is in some measure remedied by a prodigious work of stone, and piles of wood extending some miles into the bay on the south side, at the end of which there is a lighthouse beautifully constructed, after a design of the late Mr Smith's. But the port of Dublin is capable of much greater improvement; particularly by turning the course of the river Dodder, building a mole from the north wall to Ringfend, and clearing the harbour so as to form a grand basin on the south side for the reception of vessels of all burdens. This work is to be immediately carried into execution, and will no doubt meet every possible encouragement, from that spirit for promoting the national welfare which now prevails throughout this kingdom, and is remarkably conspicuous in the capital, where, among others, are the following public institutions.
The board of Trustees for promoting the linen and hempen manufactures, established by act of parliament. The Dublin Society, incorporated by charter in the year 1749, for improving husbandry and other useful arts. The Royal College of Physicians, established in the year 1679 for promoting medical knowledge. The Royal College of Surgeons, instituted in the year 1785. The Royal Irish Academy, for the advancement of science, polite literature, and antiquities, incorporated by letters patent the 28th of January 1786: His majesty is patron, and the chief governor for the time being his visitor. The Hibernian Society, for maintaining, educating, and apprenticing, the orphans and children of soldiers in Ireland. The Hibernian Marine Society, for maintaining, educating, and apprenticing, the orphans and children of decayed seamen in his majesty's navy and the merchants service; also incorporated by royal charter.
But among these public institutions, that of the Bank of Ireland must not be omitted: It was established by act of parliament in 1783; and by facilitating the circulation of specie, gives life and vigour to manufactures and commerce. It is conducted under the management of a governor, deputy-governor, and fifteen directors, chosen annually from among the subscribers; with this restriction, that five new directors at least must be chosen every year. This bank is kept in the late parliament house of Ireland. There are four other banks in the city under the following firms, viz. Right Honourable David La Touche and Co. and Sir William Glendowe Newcomen, Bart. and Co. both in Cattle street; John Dawson Coats, Esq. Thomas street; and John Finlay and Co. Upper Ormond quay. The houses in which the first three are kept are structures worthy of notice, particularly that of Sir William Glendowe Newcomen's, which has been rebuilt with hewn stone, in a good taste, after a design of the late Mr Ivory's.
To these public institutions may be added the General Post Office of Ireland, established by act of parliament in 1784, previous to which time the post office of this kingdom was only considered a branch of the English one. The building erected for this purpose is on the south side of College green: it is a fine lofty extensive structure, and the offices of clerks, &c. are extremely well adapted. There are two postmasters-general, a secretary, treasurer, accountant-general, resident surveyor, and comptroller. There is also a penny-post under the direction of the same officers, established for the conveyance of letters to all parts throughout the city and its environs.
Dublin is remarkably well supplied with flesh, fowl, and fish, the latter in much greater perfection than any other capital in Europe. It is supplied with coals chiefly from Cumberland and Scotland; and water is conveyed to the city on the north side from the river Liffey, by machines curiously constructed for the purpose, at an outlet called Island bridge: the south side is supplied with that necessary article from a fine reservoir or basin, surrounded with a wall and a handsome grass walk enclosed on each side by a thick set hedge and trees planted at equal distances. From one end of it there is a view of the canal for the convenience of inland water carriage, now completed as far as Monasterfeven, between which and the canal harbour in James's street, passage boats ply daily; they are well appointed and accommodated with all necessary refreshments. At a small distance from the basin there is a bridge of a single arch thrown over the canal, the elegance and architecture of which are much admired: the sides of the canal for some miles into the country are planted with elm trees, which renders its banks in fair weather a delightful place of exercise for the citizens; who also resort for recreation to his majesty's Phoenix park, a fine extensive inclosure at the west end of the town, and on the side of the river opposite to the canal, diversified with woodland, champaign, and rifing ground, and well stocked with deer. It is seven miles in circuit; and besides the Hibernian school, is adorned with the viceroy's beautiful villa and some handsome lodges belonging to the rangers: in this park are also a magazine for powder and a battery that commands the city. In 1747, a fluted pillar 30 feet high, with a phoenix on the top, was erected in the centre of a ring in this park by the celebrated earl of Chesterfield when lord lieutenant of Ireland.
The circular road which surrounds the city, beginning on one side of the river, at the east end of the town, and terminating on the opposite shore, is carried through the park. This road forms a very agreeable ride, and is much frequented. It is the boundary of the jurisdiction of the new police, instituted for the better preservation of the peace and good order of the city and the personal security of its inhabitants. This institution, lately established by act of parliament, is under the direction of a chief commissioner, three assistant commissioners, and four divisional justices, who are all aldermen of the city; which is therefore properly termed the district of the metropolis, and divided into four wards. The police guard consists of 40 horsemen and 400 foot, well armed, and in regular uniform: they are taught military discipline, and stationed at night time in the several watchhouses; from whence parties are constantly patrolling the streets, and sentinels are placed at different stands. This institution is found by experience to be a much more effectual prevention of robberies, riots, and nocturnal outrages, than the parish watches; and to this security which the well-disposed working manufacturers enjoy, may in a great measure be attributed that increasing spirit of industry and peaceable behaviour now so prevalent among this useful class of the community, which cannot fail to be productive of the most salutary consequences to the future welfare of the metropolis and the kingdom in general.