a city of Mid-Lothian, in Scotland, situated in W. Long. 3°, and N. Lat. 56°, near the southern bank of the river Forth.—The origin of the name, like that of most other cities, is very uncertain. Some imagine it to be derived from Eth, a supposed king of the Picts; others from Edwin, a Saxon prince of Northumberland, who overran the whole or greatest part of the territories of the Picts, about the year 617; while others choose to derive it from two Gaelic words Dun Edin, signifying the face of a hill. The name Edinburgh itself, however, seems to have been unknown in the time of the Romans. The most ancient title by which we find this city distinguished is that of Castell Mynyd Agned; which, in the British language, signifies "the fortres of the hill of St Agnes." Afterwards it was named Castrum Puellarum, because the Pictish princesses were educated in the castle (a necessary protection in those barbarous ages) till they were married.—The ages in which these names were given cannot indeed now be exactly ascertained: but the town certainly cannot boast of very great antiquity; since, as Mr Whittaker informs us, the celebrated King Arthur fought a battle on the spot where it is situated towards the end of the fifth century.

The Romans, during the time they held the dominion of part of this island, divided their possessions into six provinces. The most northerly of these was called Valentia, which comprehended all the space betwixt the walls of ADRIAN and SEVERUS. Thus Edinburgh, lying on the very outskirts of that province which was most exposed to the ravages of the barbarians, became perpetually subject to wars and devastations; by means of which, the time of its first foundation cannot now be guessed at.

The castle is certainly very ancient. It continued in the hands of the Saxons or English from the invasion of Ora and Eufa in the year 452 till the defeat of Egfrid king of Northumberland in 685 by the Picts, who then repossessed themselves of it. The Saxon kings of Northumberland reconquered it in the ninth century; and it was retained by their successors till the year 956, when it was given up to Indulphus king of Scotland. In 1093 it was unsuccessfully besieged by the usurper Donald Bane. Whether the city was at that time founded or not is uncertain. Most probably it was: for as protection from violence was necessary in those barbarous ages, the castle of Edinburgh could not fail of being an inducement to many people to settle in its neighbourhood; and thus the Edinburgh city would gradually be founded and increase.—In 1128, King David I. founded the abbey of Holyroodhouse, for certain canons regular: and granted them a charter, in which he styled the town Burga meo de Edinuieburgh, "my borough of Edinburgh." By the same charter he granted these canons 40 shillings yearly out of the town revenues; and likewise 48 shillings more, from the lame, in case of the failure of certain duties payable from the king's revenue; and likewise one half of the tallow, lard, and hides, of all the beasts killed in Edinburgh.

In 1174, the castle of Edinburgh was surrendered to Castle Henry II. of England, in order to purchase the liberty rendered of King William I. who had been defeated and taken prisoner by the English. But when William recovered his liberty, he entered into an alliance with Henry, and married his cousin Ermengarde; upon which the castle was restored as part of the queen's dower.

In 1215, this city was first distinguished by having a parliament and provincial synod held in it.—In 1296, the castle was besieged and taken by Edward I. of England; but was recovered in 1313 by Randolph earl of Moray, who was afterwards regent of Scotland during the minority of King David II. At last King Robert destroyed the fortres, as well as all others in Scotland, lest they should afford shelter to the English in any of their after incursions into Scotland.—It lay in ruins for a considerable number of years; but was afterwards rebuilt by Edward III. of England, who placed a strong garrison in it.

In 1341 it was reduced by the following stratagem. A man pretending to be an English merchant, came to the governor, and told him that he had on board his ship in the Forth, some wine, beer, biscuits, &c. which he would sell him on very reasonable terms. A bargain being made, he promised to deliver the goods next morning at a very reasonable rate: but at the time appointed, twelve men, disguised in the habit of sailors, entered the castle with the goods and supposed merchant; and having instantly killed the porter and sentinels, Sir William Douglas, on a preconcerted signal, rushed in with a band of armed men, and quickly made himself master of the place, after having cut most of the garrison in pieces.

The year 1437 is remarkable for the execution of the earl of Athol and his accomplices, who had a concern in the murder of James I. The crime, it must be owned, was execrable; but the punishment was altogether shocking to humanity. For three days successively the assassins were tortured by putting on their heads iron crowns heated red hot, dislocating their joints, pinching their flesh with red hot pincers, and carrying them in that dreadful situation through the streets upon hurdles. At last an end was put to their sufferings, by cutting them up alive, and fending the parts of their mangled bodies to the principal towns of the kingdom.

About the end of the 14th century it was customary to consider Edinburgh as the capital of the kingdom. The town of Leith, with its harbour and mills, capital had been bestowed upon it by Robert I. in 1329; and Scottish his grandson John earl of Carrick, who afterwards ascended the throne by the name of Robert III. conferred upon all the burghers the singular privilege of building building houses in the castle, upon the sole condition that they should be persons of good fame; which we must undoubtedly consider as a proof that the number of these burgesses was at that time very small. In 1461, a very considerable privilege was conferred on the city by Henry VI. of England when in a state of exile; viz. that its inhabitants should have liberty to trade to all the English ports on the same terms with the city of London. This extraordinary privilege was bestowed in consequence of the kindness with which that king was treated in a visit to the Scottish monarch at Edinburgh; but as Henry was never restored, his gratitude was not attended with any benefit to this city. From this time, however, its privileges continued to be increased from various causes. In 1482 the citizens had an opportunity of liberating King James from the oppression of his nobles, by whom he had been imprisoned in the castle. On this account the provost was by that monarch made hereditary high sheriff within the city, an office which he continues still to enjoy. The council at the same time were invested with the power of making laws and statutes for the government of the city; and the trades, as a testimony of the royal gratitude for their loyalty, received the banner known by the name of the Blue Blanket; an ensign formerly capable of producing great commotions, but which has not now been displayed for many years past. However, it still exists; and the convener of the trades has the charge of keeping it.

It was not long after the discovery of America that the venereal disease, imported from that country, made its way to Edinburgh. As early as 1497, only five years after the voyage of Columbus, we find it looked upon as a most dreadful plague; and the unhappy persons affected with it were separated as effectually as possible from society. The place of their exile was Inchkeith, a small island, near the middle of the Forth; which, small as it is, has a spring of fresh water, and now affords pasture to some sheep.

By the overthrow of James IV. at the battle of Flodden, the city of Edinburgh was overwhelmed with grief and confusion, that monarch having been attended in his unfortunate expedition by the earl of Angus, then provost, with the rest of the magistrates, and a number of the principal inhabitants, most of whom perished in the battle. After this disaster, the inhabitants being alarmed for the safety of their city, it was enacted that every fourth man should keep watch at night; the fortifications of the town were renewed, the wall being also extended in such a manner as to enclose the Grassmarket, and the field on which Heriot's Hospital, the Grey Friars Church, and Charity Workhouse, stand. On the east side it was made to enclose the College, Infirmary, and High School; after which, turning to the north, it met the old wall at the Netherbow port. After this alarm was over, the inhabitants were gradually relieved from the trouble of watching at night, and a certain number of militia appointed to prevent disturbances; who continue to this day, and are known by the name of the Town Guard. Before these new enclosures, most of the principal people lived in the Cowgate without the wall; and the burying place was situated where the Parliament Close now is. In our days of peace, when Edinburgh, no alarm of an enemy is at all probable, great part of the walls, with all the gates, have been taken down, and the city laid quite open, in order to afford more ready passage to the great concourse of people with whom the street is daily filled. But at the period we speak of, not only were the inhabitants much less numerous by reason of the small extent of the city, but it was depopulated by a dreadful plague; so that, to stop if possible the progress of the infection, all houses and shops were shut up for 14 days, and some where infected persons had died were pulled down altogether.

In 1504, the tract of ground called the Burrough of Muir was totally overgrown with wood, though now wooden it affords not the smallest vestige of having been in such a state. So great was the quantity at that time, however, that it was enacted by the town council, that whoever inclined to purchase as much wood as was sufficient to make a new front for their house, might extend it seven feet into the street. Thus the city was in a short time filled with houses of wood instead of stone; by which, besides the inconvenience of having the street narrowed 14 feet, and the beauty of the whole entirely marred, it became much more liable to accidents by fire; but almost all these are now pulled down; and in doing this a singular taste in the masonry which supported them is said to have been discovered.

In 1542, a war with England having commenced through the treachery of Cardinal Beaton, an English fleet of 200 sail entered the Forth; and having landed by the their forces, quickly made themselves masters of the towns of Leith and Edinburgh. They next attacked the castle, but were repelled from it with loss; and by this they were so enraged, that they not only destroyed the towns of Edinburgh and Leith, but laid waste the country for a great way round.—These towns, however, speedily recovered from their ruinous state; and, in 1547, Leith was again burned by the English after the battle of Pinkie, but Edinburgh was spared.

Several disturbances happened in this capital at the time of the Reformation, of which an account is given under the article SCOTLAND; but none of these greatly affected the city till the year 1570, at which time there was a civil war on account of Q. Mary's forced resignation. The regent, who was one of the contending parties, bought the cattle from the perfidious governor (Balfour) for 5000l. and the priory of Pittenweem. He did not, however, long enjoy the fruits of this infamous bargain. Sir William Kirkaldy, the new governor, a man of great integrity and bravery, declared for the queen. The city in the mean time was sometimes in the hands of one party and sometimes of another; during which contentions, the inhabitants, as may easily be imagined, suffered extremely. In the year 1570 above mentioned, Queen Elizabeth sent a body of 1000 foot and 300 horse, under the command of Sir William Drury, to assist the king's party. The castle was summoned to surrender; and several skirmishes happened during the space of two years, in which a kind of predatory war was carried on. At last a truce was agreed on till the month of January 1573; and this opportunity the earl of Morton, now Edinburgh regent, made use of to build two bulwarks across the high street, nearly opposite to the tolbooth, to defend the city from the fire of the castle.

On the first of January, early in the morning, the governor began to cannonade the city. Some of the cannon were pointed against the fish-market, then held on the high street; and the bullets falling among the fishes, scattered them about in a surprising manner, and even drove them up so high in the air, that they fell down upon the tops of the houses. This unusual spectacle having brought a number of people out of their houses, some of them were killed, and others dangerously wounded. Some little time afterwards, several houses were set on fire by shot from the castle, and burned to the ground, which greatly enraged the people against the governor. A treaty was at last concluded between the leaders of the opposite factions; but Kirkaldy refused to be comprehended in it. The regent therefore solicited the affiance of Queen Elizabeth, and Sir William Drury was again sent into Scotland with 1500 foot and a train of artillery. The castle was now besieged in form, and batteries raised against it in different places. The governor defended himself with great bravery for 33 days; but finding most of the fortifications demolished, the well choked up with rubbish, and all supplies of water cut off, he was obliged to surrender. The English general, in the name of his mistress, promised him honourable treatment; but the queen of England shamefully gave him up to the regent, by whom he was hanged.

Soon after this, the spirit of fanaticism, which succeeded the Reformation, produced violent commotions, not only in Edinburgh, but through the whole kingdom. The foundation of these disturbances, and indeed of most others which have ever happened in Christendom on account of religion, was that pernicious maxim of Popery, that the church is independent of the state. It is not to be supposed that this maxim was at all agreeable to the sovereign; but such was the attachment of the people to the doctrines of the clergy, that King James found himself obliged to compound matters with them. This, however, answered the purpose but very indifferently; and at last a violent uproar was excited. The king was then sitting in the court of session, which was held in the tolbooth, when a petition was presented to him by six persons, lamenting the dangers which threatened religion; and being treated with very little respect by one Bruce, a minister, his majesty asked who they were that dared to convene against his proclamation? He was answered by Lord Lindsay, that they dared to do more, and would not suffer religion to be overthrown. On this the king perceiving a number of people crowding into the room, withdrew into another without making any reply, ordering the door to be shut. By this the petitioners were so much enraged, that on their return to the church the most furious resolutions were taken; and had it not been for the activity of Sir Alexander Home the provost, and Mr Watt the deacon convener, who assembled the crafts in his majesty's behalf, it is more than probable that the door would have been forced, and an end put to his life. This affront was so much resented by the king, that he thought proper to declare Edinburgh an unfit place of residence for the court or the administration of justice. In consequence of this declaration, he commanded the college of justice, Edinburgh the inferior judges, and the nobility and barons, to retire from Edinburgh, and not to return without express licence. This unexpected declaration threw the whole town into consternation, and brought back the magistrates and principal inhabitants to a sense of their duty. With the clergy it was far otherwise. They railed against the king in the most furious manner, and endeavouring to persuade the people to take up arms, the magistrates were ordered to imprison them; but they escaped by a timely flight. A deputation of the most respectable burgesses was then sent to the king at Linlithgow, with a view to mitigate his resentment. But he refused to be pacified; and on the last day of December 1596 entered the town between two rows of his soldiers who lined the streets, while the citizens were commanded to keep within their houses. A convention of the estates was held in the tolbooth, before whom the magistrates made the most abject submissions, but in vain. The convention declared one of the late tumults, in which an attack had been made upon the king's person, to be high treason; and ordained, that if the magistrates did not find out the authors, the city itself should be subjected to all the penalties due to that crime. It was even proposed to raise the town to the foundation, and erect a pillar on the spot where it had flood, as a monument of its crimes. The inhabitants were now reduced to the utmost despair; but Queen Elizabeth interposing in behalf of the city, the king thought proper to abate somewhat of his rigour. A criminal prosecution, however, was commenced, and the town council were commanded to appear at Perth by the first of February. On their petition, the time for their appearance was prolonged to the first of March; and the attendance of 13 of the common council was declared sufficient, provided they had a proper commission from the rest. The trial commenced on the 5th day of the month; and one of the number having failed in his attendance, the cause was immediately decided against the council; they were declared rebels, and their revenues forfeited.

For 15 days the city continued in the utmost confusion; but, at last, on their earnest supplication, and offering to submit entirely to the king's mercy, the community were restored on the following conditions, which they had formerly proffered: That they should continue to make a most diligent search for the authors of the tumult in order to bring them to condign punishment; that none of the seditious ministers should be allowed to return to their charges, and no others admitted without his majesty's consent; and that in the election of their magistrates they should present a list of the candidates to the king and his lords of council and session, whom his majesty and their lordships might approve or reject at pleasure. To these conditions the king now added some others; viz. that the houses which had been possessed by the ministers should be delivered up to the king; and that the clergymen should afterwards live dispersed through the town, every one in his own parish: That the town council house should be appointed for accommodating the court of exchequer; and that the town should become bound for the safety of the lords of session from any attempts of the burgesses, under a penalty of 40,000 merks; and, lastly, burgh, that the town should immediately pay 20,000 merks to his majesty.

Upon these terms a reconciliation took place; which appears to have been very complete, as the king not only allowed the degraded ministers to be replaced, but in 1610 conferred a mark of his favour on the town, by allowing the provost to have a sword of state carried before him, and the magistrates to wear gowns on public occasions. In 1618 he paid his last visit to this city, when he was received with the most extravagant pomp and magnificence. See SCOTLAND.

The events which, during this period, regard the internal police of the city, were principally the following. After the unfortunate battle at Pinkney, the magistrates, probably apprehending that now their power was enlarged by reason of the present calamity, proceeded in some respects in a very arbitrary manner; forcing the inhabitants to furnish materials for the public works; enjoining merchants to bring home silver to be coined at the mint; and ordering lanterns to be hung out at proper places to burn till nine at night, &c. Another invasion from England being apprehended in 1538, the city raised 1450 men for its defence, among whom there are said to have been 200 tailors, so that their profession seems to have been in a very flourishing state at that time. During the disturbances which happened at the Reformation, and of which a particular account is given under the article SCOTLAND, it was enacted, that the figure of St Giles should be cut out of the town standard, and that of a thistle inserted in its place. It was likewise enacted, that none but those who professed the reformed religion should serve in any office whatever; and the better to preserve the extraordinary appearance of sanctity which was affected, a pillar was erected in the North Loch, for the purpose of ducking fornicators.

In 1595, the boys of the High School rose against their masters; and such was the barbarism of those days, that one of these striplings shot a magistrate with a pistol, who had come along with the rest to reduce them to obedience. The reason of the uproar was, that they were in that year refused two vacations, which had been customary in former times; however, they were at last obliged to submit, and ever since have been allowed one for about fix weeks in the autumn. The same year the house of one of the bailies was assaulted by the tradesmen's sons, affighted by journeymen who had not received the freedom of the town; he escaped with his life, but the offenders were banished the city for ever.

In the beginning of the reign of Charles I. a perfect harmony seems to have subsisted between the court and the city of Edinburgh; for in 1627 King Charles I. presented the city with a new sword and gown to be worn by the provost at the times appointed by his father James VI. Next year he paid a visit to this capital, and was received by the magistrates in a most pompous manner; but soon after this the disturbances arose which were not terminated but by the death of that unfortunate monarch. These commenced on an attempt of Charles to introduce Episcopacy into the kingdom; and the first step towards this was the erection of the three Lothians and part of Berwick into a diocese, Edinburgh being the episcopal seat, and the church of St Giles the cathedral. An account of the disturbance occasioned by the first attempt to read the Edinburgh prayer book there, is given under the article BRITAIN; but though the attempt was given over, the minds of the people were not to be quieted. Next winter they referred to town in such multitudes, that the privy-council thought proper to publish two acts; by one of which the people were commanded, under severe penalties, to leave the town in 24 hours; and by the other, the court of session was removed to Linlithgow. The populace and their leaders were so much enraged by the latter, that Lord Traquair and some of the bishops narrowly escaped with their lives; and next year (1638) matters became still more serious. For now, the king having provoked his subjects throughout all Scotland with the innovations he attempted in religion, Edinburgh was made the general place of rendezvous, and the most formidable associations took place; an account of which has already been given under the article BRITAIN. Each of the towns in Scotland had a copy; and that which belonged to Edinburgh, crowded with 5000 names, is still preserved among the records of the city. Notwithstanding this disagreement, however, the king once more visited Edinburgh in 1641, and was entertained by the magistrates at an expence of 12,000l. Scots. It does not appear that after this the city was in any way particularly concerned with the disturbances which followed either throughout the remainder of the reign of Charles I., the commonwealth, or the reign of Charles II. In 1680 the duke of York with his duchess, the princess Anne, and the whole court of Scotland, were entertained by the city in the Parliament House, at the expence of 15,000l. Scots. At this time it is said that the scheme of building the bridge over the North Loch was first projected by the duke.

From the time that King James VI. paid his last visit to Edinburgh in 1618, till the time of the union made by in 1707, a considerable number of private regulations were made by the magistrates; some of them evidently calculated for the good of the city, others strongly characteristic of that violent spirit of fanaticism which prevailed so much in the last century. Among the former was an act passed in 1621, that the houses, instead of being covered with straw or boards, should have their roofs constructed of slate, tiles, or lead. This act was renewed in 1667; and in 1668 an act was passed regulating their height also. By this they were restrained to five stories, and the thickness of the wall determined to be three feet at bottom. In 1684 a lantern with a candle was ordered to be hung out on the first floor of every house, in order to light the streets at night; and there were two coaches with four horses each ordered to be bought for the use of the magistrates; but it does not appear how long they continued to be used. In 1681 the court of session discontinued its sittings in summer: but as this was found to be attended with inconvenience, an act was passed for their restoration, which has continued ever since. During the time of the civil war in 1649, the city was visited by the plague, which is the last time that dreadful distemper hath made its appearance in this country. The infection was so violent, that the city was almost depopulated, the prisoners were discharged from the tolbooth, and an act was made for giving one Dr Joannes Politius a salary of 80l. Scots per month, for visiting Edinburgh, visiting those who were infected with the disease. In 1677 the first coffee-houses were allowed to be opened, but none without a license; and the same year the town council regulated the price of penny weddings; ordaining the men to pay no more than two shillings, and the women 18 pence; very extravagant prices having been exacted before.

In contradistinction to these salutary acts, we may state those which show an extravagant desire of preserving the appearance of virtue in the female sex, as if it had been possible for others to inspire them with virtuous notions if they had not imbibed them of themselves. In 1633 an act of council was passed, by which women were forbidden to wear plaids over their faces, under penalty of five pounds and the forfeiture of the plaid for the first fault. Banishment was the punishment of the third. The reason assigned for this act was, that matrons were not known from strumpets and loose women, while the plaid continued to be worn over the face. This act was renewed in 1637 and 1638. Succeeding town councils continued to show the same regard to these matters; for in 1665 they enacted, that no innkeeper, vintner, or aleseller, should for the future employ women as waiters or servants, under the penalty of five shillings sterling for each.

The following anecdote may perhaps make the virtues of these legislators themselves wear a suspicious aspect. In 1649 the city having borrowed 40,000l. Scots, in order to raise their quota of men for his majesty, the payment of it was absolutely refused by the town-council when a demand was made for that purpose. That they might not, however, depend entirely upon their own opinion in a matter of such importance, they took that of the General Assembly upon the subject; and it was determined by these reverend divines, that they were not in conscience bound to pay for an unlawful engagement which their predecessors had entered into. But in 1652, Cromwell's parliament, who pretended to no less sanctity than they, declared themselves of a very different opinion; and on the application of one of the creditors, forced them to repay the sum.

The treatment which the brave marquis of Montrose met with, likewise fixes an indelible stigma both upon the magistrates and clergy at that time. Having been put under sentence of excommunication, no person was allowed to speak to him or to do him the least office of friendship. Being met without the city by the magistrates and town guard, he was by them conducted in a kind of gloomy procession through the streets bareheaded, and in an elevated cart made for the purpose; the other prisoners walking two and two before him. At the time of his execution he was attended by one of the ministers, who according to his own account, did not choose to return till he had seen him casten over the ladder.

The union in 1707 had almost produced a war between the two kingdoms which it was designed to unite; and on that occasion Edinburgh became a scene of the most violent disturbances, of which a particular account is given under the article BRITAIN. During the time the act was passing, it was found absolutely necessary for the guards and four regiments of foot to do duty in the city. The disturbances were augmented by the disagreement of the two members of parliament; and notwithstanding the victory gained at that time by the Edinburgh court party, Sir Patrick Johnston the provost, who voted for the union, was obliged afterwards to leave the country. In 1715 the city remained faithful to the royal cause, and proper measures were taken for its defence. A committee of safety was appointed, the city guard increased, and 400 men raised at the expense of the town. The trained bands likewise were ordered out, 100 of whom mounted guard every night: by which precautions the rebels were prevented from attempting the city: they, however, made themselves masters of the citadel of Leith; but fearing an attack from the duke of Argyll, they abandoned it in the night time. A scheme was even laid for becoming masters of the castle of Edinburgh; for which purpose they bribed a sergeant to place their scaling ladders. Thus some of the rebels got up to the top of the walls before any alarm was given; but in the mean time the plot being discovered by the sergeant's wife, her husband was hanged over the place where he had attempted to introduce the rebels. The expense of the armament which the city had been at on this occasion amounted to about 1700l. which was repaid by government in the year 1721.

The loyalty of this city was still farther remarkable in the year 1725, when disturbances were excited in all parts of the kingdom, particularly in the city of Glasgow, concerning the excise bill; for all remained quiet in Edinburgh, notwithstanding the violent outrages that were made elsewhere; and so remarkable was the tranquillity in the metropolis, that government afterwards returned thanks to the magistrates for it. In 1736, however, the city had again the misfortune to fall under the royal displeasure, on the following account. Two smugglers having been detected in stealing their own goods out of a customhouse, were condemned to be hanged. The crime was looked upon as trivial; and therefore a general murmur prevailed among the populace, which was no doubt heightened by the following accident. At that time it had been customary for persons condemned to die to be carried each Sunday to the church, called from that circumstance the Tolbooth church. The two prisoners just mentioned were conducted in the usual way, guarded by three soldiers, to prevent their making their escape: but having once gone thither a little before the congregation met, one of the prisoners seized one of the guards in each hand, and the other in his teeth, calling out to his companion to run; which he immediately did with such speed, that he soon got out of sight, and was never heard of afterwards. The person who had thus procured the life of his companion without regard to his own, would no doubt become a general object of compassion; and of course, when led to the place of execution, the guard were severely pelted by the mob, and some of them, according to the testimony of the witnesses who were sworn on the occasion, pretty much wounded. By this Captain Porteous, who commanded the guard, was so much provoked, that he gave orders to fire, by which fix people were killed and eleven wounded. The evidence, however, even of the fact that the orders to fire were given, appears not to have been altogether unexceptionable; nevertheless, on this he was tried and condemned to be executed. At that time the king was absent in Hanover, having Edinburgh, having left the regency in the hands of the queen; and the case of the unfortunate Porteous having been represented to her, she was pleased to grant him a reprieve; but such was the inveteracy of the people against him that they determined not to allow him to avail himself of the royal clemency. On the night previous to the day that had been appointed for his execution, therefore, a number of people assembled, shut the gates of the city, and burnt the door of the prison, the fame which the mob would formerly have broken open in order to murder King James. They then took out Porteous, whom it was found impossible to rescue out of their hands, though every method that the magistrates could take for that purpose in such a confusion was made use of. It was even proved that the member of parliament went to the commander in chief, and requested that he would send a party of soldiers to quell the disturbance, but was absolutely denied this request, because he could not produce a written order from the provost to this purport; which, in the confusion then existing in the city, could neither have been expected to be given by the provost, nor would it have been safe for any person to have carried it about him. Thus the unhappy victim was left in the hands of his executioners; and being dragged by them to the place destined for receiving his fate, was hanged on a dyer's sign post. As they had not brought a rope along with them, they broke open a shop where they knew they were to be had; and having taken out what they wanted, left the money upon the table, and retired without committing any other disorder.

Such an atrocious insult on government could not but be highly resented. A royal proclamation was issued, offering a pardon to any accomplice, and a reward of 200l. to any person who would discover one of those concerned. The proclamation was ordered to be read from every pulpit in Scotland the first Sunday of every month for a twelve month; but so divided were the people in their opinions about this matter, that many of the clergy hesitated exceedingly about complying with the royal order, by which they were brought in danger of being turned out of their livings; while those who complied were rendered still unpopular, that their situation was rendered still worse than the others. All the efforts of government, however, were insufficient to produce any discovery; by which, no doubt, the court was still more exasperated; and it was now determined to execute vengeance on the magistrates and city at large. Alexander Wilton, the provost at that time, was imprisoned three weeks before he could be admitted to bail; after which, he and the four bailies, with the lords of judicature, were ordered to attend the house of peers at London. On their arrival there a debate ensued, whether the lords should attend in their robes or not? but at last it was agreed that they should attend in their robes at the bar. This, however, was refused by their lordships, who insisted that they should be examined within the bar; upon which the affair of their examination was dropped altogether. A bill at last passed both houses, by which it was enacted that the city of Edinburgh should be fined 2000l. for the benefit of Porteous's widow (though she was prevailed upon to accept of 1500l. for the whole); and the provost was declared incapable of ever serving government again in any capacity whatever. To prevent such catastrophes in time coming, the town council enacted, that, on the first appearance of an insurrection, the chief officers in the different societies and corporations should repair to the council to receive the orders of the magistrates for the quelling of the tumult, under the penalty of 8l. 6s. 8d. for each omission.

In 1745, the city was invested by the Pretender's army; and on the 17th of September, the Netherbow gate being opened to let a coach pass, a party of Highlanders, who had reached the gate undiscovered, rushed in, and took possession of the city. The inhabitants were commanded to deliver up their arms at the palace of Holyroodhouse; a certain quantity of military stores was required from the city, under pain of military execution; and an assessment of 2s. 6d. upon the pound was imposed upon the real rents within the city and liberties for defraying that expense.

The pretender's army guarded all the avenues to the castle; but no signs of hostilities ensued till the 25th of the month, when the garrison being alarmed from some unknown cause, a number of cannon were discharged at the guard placed at the West Port, but with very little effect. This gave occasion to an order to the guard at the Weigh-house, to prevent all intercourse between the city and castle; and then the governor acquainted the provost by letter, that unless the communication was preserved, he would be obliged to dislodge the guard by means of artillery. A deputation was next sent to the Pretender, acquainting him with the danger the city was in, and entreating him to withdraw the guard. With this he refused to comply; and the Highland sentinels firing at some people who were carrying provisions into the castle, a pretty smart cannonading ensued, which set fire several houses, killed some people, and did other damage. The Pretender then consented to dismiss the guard, and the cannonading ceased. After the battle of Culloden, the provost of Edinburgh was obliged to stand a very long and severe trial, first at London and then at Edinburgh, for not defending the city against the rebels; which, from the situation and extent of the walls, every one must have seen to be impossible.

During this trial a very uncommon circumstance happened; the jury having sat two days, insisted that they could sit no longer, and prayed for a short respite. As the urgency of the case was apparent, and both parties agreed, the court, after long reasoning, adjourned till the day following, taking the jury bound under a penalty of 500l. each; when the court continued sitting two days longer, and the jury were one day enclosed. The event was, that the provost was exculpated.

After the battle of Culloden the duke of Cumberland caused fourteen of the rebel standards to be burned at the cross; that of the Pretender was carried by the common executioner, the others by chimney-sweepers; the heralds proclaiming the names of the commanders to whom they belonged as they were thrown into the fire. At this time the city of Edinburgh felt a temporary inconvenience from the election of their magistrates not having taken place at the usual time; Government of the city restor- so that it became necessary to apply to his majesty for the reformation of the government of the city. This ed. was readily granted, the burgesses being allowed a poll tax; after which an entire new set of magistrates was returned, Edinburgh returned, all of them friends to the house of Hanover; and soon after the freedom of the city in a gold box was presented to the duke of Cumberland.

With these transactions all interferences betwixt government and the metropolis of Scotland were ended; the rest of its history therefore only consists of internal occurrences, the regulations made by its own magistrates for the benefit of the city, their applications to government for leave to improve it, or the execution of these improvements; of which we shall now give a brief detail.

In the year 1716, the city first bestowed a settled salary on the provost, in order to enable him to support the dignity of the first magistrate. This was at first 300l.; was afterwards augmented to 500l. and now we believe is a larger sum. In 1718 it was recommended to the magistrates to distinguish themselves by wearing coats of black velvet, for which they were allowed 10l. but this act being abrogated in 1754, gold chains were assigned as badges of their office, which they continue to wear. Provost Kincaid happened to die in office in the year 1777; which being a rare occurrence, perhaps the only one at that time of the kind to be met with in the records of Edinburgh, he was buried with great solemnity. A similar funeral procession took place at the death of Mr Coulter in 1809.

Tumults have been frequent in Edinburgh, chiefly on account of the dearness of provisions. In 1740 Bell's mills were first attacked by the populace, and afterwards Leith mills; nor could the rioters be dispersed till the military had fired among them and wounded three, of whom one died; and it was found necessary to order some dragoons into the city in order to preserve tranquillity. In 1742, another violent tumult took place, owing to a custom of stealing dead bodies from their graves for anatomical purposes, which had then become common. The populace beat to arms, threatened destruction to the surgeons; and, in spite of the efforts of the magistrates, demolished the house of the beadle at St Cuthbert's. In 1756 new disturbances, which required the assistance of the military, took place: the cause at this time was the impressing of men for the war which was then commencing. A disturbance was likewise excited in 1760. This was occasioned by the footmen, who till then were allowed to follow their masters into the playhouse, and now took upon them to disturb the entertainment of the company; the consequence of which was, that they were turned out, and have ever since been obliged to wait for their masters. In 1763 and 1765, the tumults on account of the price of provisions were renewed; many of the mealmongers had their houses broken open and their shops destroyed. The magistrates, as usual, were obliged to call in a party of dragoons to quell the disturbance; but at the same time, to put an effectual stop, as far as was in their power, to these proceedings for the future, they gave security, that people who brought grain or provision into the market should be secured in their property. Since that time there have been no tumults directly on the account of provisions; though in 1784 a terrible riot and attack of a distillery at Canongrills took place, on a supposition that the distillers enhanced the price of meal by using unmalted grain. The attack was repelled by the servants of the distillery; but the mob could not be quelled until the sheriff called the soldiers quartered in the castle to his assistance. The same night a party of rioters set out for Ford, a place ten miles to the southward, where there was likewise a large distillery; which, as there was none to make any opposition, they soon destroyed. One man was killed in this riot at Edinburgh by the fire of a servant of the distillery, and several of the rioters were afterwards secured and punished.

In the years 1778 and 1779 two very alarming disturbances happened, which threatened a great deal of bloodshed, though happily they were terminated without any. The first was a mutiny of the earl of Seaforth's Highland regiment, who were at this time quartered in the castle. These having been ordered to embark, for some reason or other unanimously refused, and posted themselves on the top of Arthur's seat, where they continued for two days. Troops were collected to prevent their escape, and the inhabitants were ordered to keep within doors at the first toll of the great bell, which was to be a signal of violence about to take place; but fortunately all the fears, naturally arising from the expectation of this event, were dissipated by an accommodation. The other happened on account of the attempt to repeal the penal laws against the Papists; and was much more alarming than the other, as being the effect of a premeditated scheme and determined resolution to oppose government. On the second of February 1779 a mob assembled in the evening, burned a Popish chapel, and plundered another. Next day they renewed their depredations; destroying and carrying off the books, furniture, &c. of several Popish priests and others of that persuasion. The riot continued all that day, though the assistance of the military was called in; but happily no lives were lost, nor was there any firing. The city was afterwards obliged to make good the damage sustained by the Catholics on this occasion, which was estimated at 1500l. This year also an unlucky accident happened at Leith. About 50 Highland recruits having refused to embark, a party of the South Fencibles was sent to take them prisoners. Unexpectedly, however, the Highlanders stood upon their defence; when, after some words, a firing commenced on both sides, and about one half of the Highlanders were killed and wounded, the remainder being taken prisoners and carried to the castle. Captain Mansfield and two or three privates were killed in this affray.

We shall close this history of Edinburgh with a general account of the improvements which have lately taken place in it, and of which a particular description will afterwards be given. These began in the year 1753, when the foundation-stone of the Exchange was laid, at which time there was a grand procession, and the greatest concourse of people ever known in Edinburgh. A triumphal arch was erected for the purpose, through which the procession passed, and medals were scattered among the populace. In 1756 the high street was cleared by the removal of the cros; though many regretted this, on account of its being a very ancient and elegant building. In the middle it had an unicorn placed on the top of a pillar 20 feet high; but this fine ornament was broken to pieces by the giving way of the tackle by which it was attempted to remove it. It is now again erected at Drum, a feat formerly belonging to Lord Somerville, about four miles In 1763 the first stone of the North bridge was laid by Provost Drummond; and in 1767 an act of parliament was obtained for extending the royalty of the city over the fields to the northward, where the New Town is now situated. About the same time a spot of ground upon the south side of the town was purchased by a private person for £200l., which being feued out for building, gave rise to the increase of the town on that quarter; and this proceeded the more rapidly, as the houses built there were free from the dues imposed upon others subject to the royalty. In 1774 the foundation of the Register Office was laid. In 1784 the project for rendering the access to the town equally easy on both sides was begun to be put in execution by laying the foundation of the South bridge. At the same time a great improvement was made by reducing the height of the street several feet all the way from the place where the cros flood to the Netherbow; by which means the ascent is rendered more easy, not only for carriages, but also for persons who walk on foot. At the same time, the street was farther cleared by the removal of the town guard house, which had long been complained of as an encumbrance. Within these three years (1805) part of the Luckenbooths has been removed, and it is still farther in contemplation to remove the whole with the prison. When this is accomplished, with other improvements by which it must necessarily be accompanied, it is to be questioned whether any city in Britain will be able to vie with Edinburgh in elegance and beauty.

Having thus given a concise history of the city from its earliest foundation, we shall now proceed to describe it in its most improved state.

Edinburgh is situated upon a steep hill, rising from east to west, and terminating in a high and inaccessible rock, upon which the castle stands. At the east end or lower extremity of this hill stands the abbey of Holyroodhouse, or king's palace, distant from the castle upwards of a mile; and betwixt which, along the top of the ridge, and almost in a straight line, runs the high street. On each side, and parallel to this ridge or hill, is another ridge of ground lower than that in the middle, and which does not extend so far to the east; that on the south being intercepted by Salisbury rocks and Arthur's seat, a hill of about 800 feet of perpendicular height; and that on the north by the Calton hill, considerably lower than Arthur's seat: so that the situation of this city is most singular and romantic; the east or lower part of the town lying between two hills; and the west or higher part rising up towards a third hill, little inferior in height to the highest of the other two, upon which, as has been observed, the castle is built, and overlooks the town.

The buildings of the town terminate at the distance of about 200 yards from the castle gate; which space affords a most delightful as well as convenient and healthful walk to the inhabitants. The prospect from this spot is perhaps the finest anywhere to be met with, for extent, beauty, and variety.

In the valley or hollow betwixt the mid and the south ridges, and nearly parallel to the high street, is another street called the Cowgate; and the town has now extended itself over most part of that south ridge also.

Betwixt the mid and the north ridges was a loch, which, till of very late, terminated the town on that side. From the high street towards the loch on the north, and Cowgate on the south, run narrow cros streets or lanes, called wynds and closes, which grow steeper and steeper the farther west or nearer the castle; so that, were it not for the clofenes and great height of the buildings, this city, from its situation and plan, might naturally be expected to be the best aired, as well as the cleanest, in Europe. The former, notwithstanding these disadvantages, it enjoys in an eminent degree; but we cannot compliment it upon the latter, notwithstanding every possible means has been used by the magistrates for that purpose.

The steepness of the ascent makes the access to the high street from the north and south very difficult; which no doubt greatly retarded the enlargement of the city. To remedy this inconvenience on the north, and with a view to extend the town on that quarter, a most elegant bridge has been thrown over the North Loch, which joins the north ridge to the middle of the high street, by so easy an ascent as one in fifteen; and in pursuance of the design, a plan of a new town to the north was fixed upon, and is now nearly finished, with an elegance and taste that does honour to this country. In like manner, to facilitate the access from the south side, a bridge has been thrown over the valley through which the Cowgate runs; which, if not equally elegant with the North bridge, is certainly as convenient.

The gradual increase of the city of Edinburgh may Account of in some degree be understood from the traces of its ancient walls that still remain. James II. in 1459, first bestowed on the community the privilege of fortifying the city with a wall, and empowered them to levy a tax upon the inhabitants for defraying the expense. When the city was first fortified, the wall reached no further than the present water-house, or reservoir, on the castle hill: from thence to the foot of Halkerton's wynd, just below the new bridge, the city was defended by the North Loch; an inconsiderable morass, which, being formerly overflowed, formed a small lake that hath since been drained. From this place to the foot of Leith wynd, it does not appear how the city was fortified? but from the foot of Leith wynd to the Nether-bow port it was defended only by a range of houses; and when these had become ruinous, a wall was built in their place. The original wall of Edinburgh, therefore, began at the foot of the north-east rock of the castle. Here it was strengthened by a small fortres, the ruins of which are still to be seen, and are called the Well-house Tower, from their having a spring in their neighbourhood. When the wall came opposite to the reservoir, it was carried quite across the hill, having a gate on the top for making a communication between the town and castle. In going down the hill, it went slanting in an oblique direction to the first angle in going down the West-bow, where was a gate named the Upper-bow Port, one of the hooks of which still remains. Thence it proceeded eastward in such a manner, as would have cut off not only all the Cowgate, but some part of the parliament house; and being continued as far as the Mint close, it turned to the north-east, and connected itself with the buildings on the Edinburgh, north side of the high street, where was the original Nether-bow Port, about 50 yards west from that which afterwards went by the same name.

Soon after the building of this wall, a new street was formed on the outside of it, named the Cowgate, which in the 16th century became the residence of the nobility, the senators of the college of justice, and other persons of the first distinction. After the fatal battle of Flowden, however, the inhabitants of the Cowgate became very anxious to have themselves defended by a wall as well as the rest. The wall of the city was therefore extended to its present limits. This new wall begins on the south-east side of the rock on which the castle is built, and to which the town wall comes quite close. From thence it defends obliquely to the West Port; then ascends part of a hill on the other side, called the High Riggs; after which, it runs eastward with but little alteration in its course, to the Brito and Potter-row ports, and from thence to the Pleasance. Here it takes a northerly direction, which it keeps from thence to the Cowgate port; after which the enclosure is completed to the Nether-bow by the houses of St Mary's wynd. The original Nether-bow port being found not well adapted for defence was pulled down, and a new one built in 1571 by the adherents of Queen Mary. In 1666, the late handsome building was erected about 50 yards below the place where the former stood. It was two stories high, and had an elegant spire in the middle; but being thought to encumber the street, and the whole building being in a crazy situation, it was pulled down by order of the magistrates in 1764.

In the original wall of Edinburgh there was, as has been already observed, a port on the Cattle hill. On the extension of the wall, after building the houses in the Cowgate, this gate was pulled down. That in the upper or West-bow flood for a much longer time, and was pulled down within the memory of some persons lately or perhaps still living. Besides these, there was a third, about 50 yards above the head of the Canongate; but whether there were any more, is uncertain. The ports or gates of the new walls were, 1. The West Port, situated at the extremity of the Grays Market; beyond which lies a suburb of the town and a borough of royalty, called Porisburgh. Next to this is a wicket, struck out of the town wall in 1744, for the purpose of making an easier communication between the town and the public walks in the meadows, than by Brito port. The next to this was Brito Port, built in 1515; beyond which lies a suburb called Brito Street. At a small distance from Brito wasthe Potter-row Port, which took this name from a manufactory of earthen ware in the neighbourhood. Formerly it was called Kirk of Field Port. Between this and the Cowgate port flood another, called St Mary's Wynd Port, which extended from east to west across the foot of the Pleasance, and which was demolished only since the middle of the last century. Close to the middle of this flood the Cowgate Port; which opened a communication between the Cowgate and St Mary's wynd, and the Pleasance. The Nether-bow Port has been already spoken of. At the foot of Leith wynd was another gate, known by the name of Leith Wynd Port; and within it was a wicket giving access to the church of Trinity College, and which still remains. At the foot of Halkerston's wynd was another, which, as well as the former, was built about the year 1560. Both of these were pulled down some years ago, and all the rest in 1785. Another still remains at the foot of the Canongate, known by the name of the Water-gate.

For 250 years the city of Edinburgh occupied the same space of ground, and it is but very lately that its limits have been so considerably enlarged. In the middle of the 16th century, it is described as extending in length about an Italian mile, and about half as much in breadth; which answers very nearly to its present limits, the late enlargements only excepted. This space of ground, however, was not at that time occupied in the manner it is at present. The houses were neither so high nor so crowded upon each other as they are now. This was a consequence of the number of inhabitants increasing, which has occasioned the raising of the houses to such a height as is perhaps not to be paralleled in any other part of the world. Till the time of the Reformation, the burying ground of the city extended over all the space occupied by the Parliament square, and from thence to the Cowgate. The lands lying to the southward of the Cowgate were chiefly laid out in gardens belonging to the convent of Black friars, and the church of St Mary in the Field. These extended almost from the Pleasance to the Potter-row port. From the Brito to the West port the ground was laid out in gardens belonging to the Gray friars. The magistrates, on their application to Queen Mary, obtained a grant of the Gray friars gardens for a burying place; for which it was given as a reason, that they were somewhat distant from the town. Here, however, it must be understood, that these gardens were distant from the houses, and not without the walls; for they had been inclosed by them long before. In the time of James I. the houses within the walls seem to have been in general, if not universal, covered with thatch or broom; and not above 20 feet high. Even in the year 1621, these roofs were so common, that they were prohibited by act of parliament, in order to prevent accidents from fire. In the middle of the last century, there were neither courts nor squares in Edinburgh. The Parliament close or square is the oldest of this kind in the city. Mihl's square, James's court, &c. were built long after; and Argyll's and Brown's squares about the years 1750 or 1760.

The New Town was projected in the year 1752; but as the magistrates could not then procure an ex-Town tension of the royalty, the execution of the design was suspended for some time. In 1767, an act was obtained, by which the royalty was extended over the fields to the northward of the city; upon which advertisements were published by the magistrates, desiring proper plans to be given in. Plans were given accordingly, and that designed by Mr James Craig architect was adopted. Immediately afterwards, people were invited to purchase lots from the town council; and such as purchased became bound to conform to the rules of the plan. In the mean time, however, the town council had secretly referred to themselves a privilege of departing from their own plan; which they afterwards made use of in such a manner as produced a law suit. According to the plan held forth to the purchasers, a canal was to be made through that Edinburgh, place where the North Loch had been, and the bank on the north side of it laid out in terraces: but instead of this, by an act of council, liberty was referred to the town to build upon this spot; and therefore, when many gentlemen had built genteel houses in the new town on faith of the plan, they were surprised to find the spot appointed for terraces and a canal, beginning to be covered with mean irregular buildings, and work houses for tradesmen. This deviation was immediately complained of; but as the magistrates showed no inclination to grant any redress, a prosecution was commenced against them before the Lords of Session. In that court the cause was given against the pursuers, who thereupon appealed to the House of Lords. Here the sentence of the Court of Session was reversed, and the cause remitted to the consideration of their Lordships. At last, after an expensive contest, matters were accommodated. The principal term of accommodation was, that some part of the ground was to be laid out in terraces and a canal; but the time of disposing it in that manner, was referred to the Lord President of the Court of Session and the Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer. The fall of part of the bridge, hereafter mentioned, proved a very considerable disadvantage to the New Town; as it necessarily induced a suspicion that the passage, by means of the bridge, could never be rendered safe. An oversight of the magistrates proved of more essential detriment. A piece of ground lay to the southward of the Old Town, in a situation very proper for building. This the magistrates had an opportunity of purchasing for 1200l.; which, however, they neglected, and it was bought by a private person, who immediately feued it out in lots for building, as has been already mentioned. The magistrates then began to see the consequence, namely, that this spot being free from the duties to which the royalty of Edinburgh is subject, people would choose to reside there rather than in the New Town. Upon this they offered the purchaser 2000l. for the ground for which he had paid 1200l.; but as he demanded 20,000l. the bargain did not take place. Notwithstanding these discouragements, the New Town is now almost finished; and from the advantages of its situation, and its being built according to a regular plan, it hath undoubtedly a superiority over any city in Britain. By its situation, however, it is remarkably exposed to storms of wind, which, at Edinburgh, sometimes rage with uncommon violence.

It has three streets, almost a mile in length, running from east to west, intersected with cross streets at proper distances. The most northerly, called Queen's Street, till lately that Heriot row was built, is 100 feet broad, and commands an extensive prospect of the Forth, the county of Fife, and the shipping in the river. That called George's Street, which is in the middle, is no less than 115 feet wide. It is terminated at each end by two very elegant and extensive squares; that on the east end is called St Andrew's Square; the other, which is not yet finished, is called Charlotte's Square. Prince's street is the most southerly; and extends from the northern extremity of the bridge, quite to the west end of the town. It has only been finished this year (1805). From the west end of Prince's street, a spacious road has been lately opened to join the two roads to Glasgow by Airdrie and Whitburn. This has greatly improved the approach to the town from the west.

The most remarkable public buildings in Edinburgh are—

1. The Castle. This stands on a high rock, accessible only on the east side. On all others it is very steep, and buildings in some places perpendicular. It is about 300 feet high from its base: so that, before the invention of artillery, it might well have been deemed impregnable; though the event showed that it was not. The entry to this fortress is defended by an outer barrier of palliades; within this is a dry ditch, draw-bridge, and gate, defended by two batteries which flank it; and the whole is commanded by a half-moon mounted with brais cannon, carrying balls of 12 pounds. Beyond these are two gate-ways, the first of which is very strong, and has two portcullises. Immediately beyond the second gate way, on the right hand, is a battery mounted with brais cannon, carrying balls of 12 and 18 pounds weight. On the north side are a mortar and some gun batteries. The upper part of the castle contains a half-moon battery, a chapel, a parade for exercise, and a number of houses in the form of a square, which are laid out in barracks for the officers. Besides these there are other barracks sufficient to contain 1000 men; a powder magazine, bomb proof; a grand arsenal, capable of containing 8000 stand of arms; and other apartments for the same use, which can contain 22,000 more: so that 30,000 stand of arms may be conveniently lodged in this castle. On the east side of the square above mentioned, were formerly royal apartments; in one of which King James VI. was born, and which is still shown to those who visit the castle. In another, the regalia of Scotland were deposited on the 26th of March 1707; but as they were never shown to any body, a suspicion has arisen that they were carried to London, perhaps during the rebellions 1715 or 1745. This apartment was opened in 1794 by an order from government, in presence of the first civil officers of the crown, as the lord president of the court of session, the lord justice clerk, &c. but no part of the regalia was found.

The governor of the castle is generally a nobleman, whose place is worth about 1000l. a-year; and that of deputy governor, 500l. This last resides in the house appointed for the governor, as the latter never inhabits it. There is also a fort-major, a store-keeper, master gunner, and chaplain; but as this last does not reside in the castle, worship is seldom performed in the chapel. The parliament house was formerly included in the great square on the top, and the royal gardens were in the marsh afterwards called the North Loch; the king's stables being on the south side, where the houses still retain the name, and the place where the barns were still retain the name of Cattlebarns.

The castle is defended by a company of invalids, and four or five hundred men belonging to some marching regiment, though it can accommodate 1000, as above mentioned; and this number has been sometimes kept in it. Its natural strength of situation was not sufficient to render it impregnable, even before the invention of artillery, as we have already observed; much less would it be capable of securing it against the attacks of a modern army well provided with cannon. It could not, in Edinburgh: all probability, withstand, even for a few hours, a well-directed bombardment: for no part but the powder magazine is capable of resisting these destructive machines; and the splinters from the rock on which the castle is built, could not fail to render them still more formidable. Besides, the water of the well, which is very bad, and drawn up from a depth of 100 feet, is apt to subside on the continued discharge of artillery, which produces a concussion in the rock.

2. The Palace of Holyroodhouse. This, though much neglected, is the only royal habitation in Scotland that is not entirely in ruins. It is a handsome square of 230 feet in the inside, surrounded with piazzas. The front, facing the west, consists of two double towers joined by a beautiful low building, adorned with a double balustrade above. The gate-way in the middle is decorated with double stone columns, supporting a cupola in the middle, representing an imperial crown, with a clock underneath. On the right hand is the great staircase which leads to the council chamber and the royal apartments. These are large and spacious, but unfurnished: in one of them the Scotch peers meet to elect 16 of their number to represent them in parliament. The gallery is on the left hand, and measures 150 feet by 27 1/2. It is adorned with the supposed portraits of all the kings of Scotland. In the apartments of the duke of Hamilton, which he possesses as hereditary keeper of the palace, Queen Mary's bed of crimson damask, bordered with green fringes and tassels, is still to be seen, but almost reduced to rags. Here also strangers are shown a piece of wainscot hung upon hinges, which opens to a trap stair communicating with the apartments below. Through this passage Darnley and the other conspirators rushed in to murder the unhappy Rizzio. Towards the outward door of these apartments are large dusty spots on the floor, said to be occasioned by Rizzio's blood, which could never be washed out. In the lodgings assigned to Lord Dunmore is a picture by Van Dyke, esteemed a masterly performance, of King Charles I. and his queen going a-hunting. There are likewise the portraits of their present majesties at full length by Ramsay. The lodgings above the royal apartments are occupied by the duke of Argyll as heritable master of the household.

The front of this palace is two stories high; the roof flat; but at each end the front projects, and is ornamented with circular towers at the angles. Here the building is much higher, and the rest of the palace is three stories in height. The north-west towers were built by James V. for his own residence: his name is still to be seen below a niche in one of these towers. During the minority of Queen Mary, this palace was burned by the English; but soon after repaired and enlarged beyond its present size. At that time it consisted of five courts, the most westerly of which was the largest. It was bounded on the east by the front of the palace, which occupied the same space it does at present; but the building itself extended further to the south. At the north-west corner was a strong gate with Gothic pillars, arches, and towers, part of which was not long ago pulled down. Great part of the palace was burnt by Cromwell's soldiers; but it was repaired and altered into the present form after the Restoration. The fabric was planned by Sir William Bruce a celebrated architect, and executed by Robert Mylne mason. The environs of the palace afford an asylum for insolvent debtors; and adjoining to it is an extensive park, all of which is a sanctuary.

The abbey church was formerly called the monastery of Holyroodhouse, and built by King David I. in 1128. He gave it the name of Holyroodhouse, in memory, as is said of his deliverance from an enraged hart, by the miraculous interposition of a cross from heaven. This monastery he gave to the canons regular of St Augustine: on whom he also bestowed the church of Edinburgh castle, with those of St Cuthbert's, Corstorphin, and Libberton, in the shire of Mid Lothian, and of Airth in Stirlingshire; the priories of St Mary's Isle in Galloway, of Blantyre in Clydedale, of Rowadill in Rois, and three others in the Western Isles. To them he also granted the privilege of erecting a borough between the town of Edinburgh and the church of Holyroodhouse. From these canons it had the name of the Canongate, which it still retains. In this new borough they had a right to hold markets. They had also portions of land in different parts, with a most extensive jurisdiction, and right of trial by duel, and fire and water ordeal. They had also certain revenues payable out of the exchequer and other funds, with fishings, and the privilege of erecting mills on the water of Leith, which still retain the name of Canon mills. Other grants and privileges were bestowed by succeeding sovereigns; so that it was deemed the richest religious foundation in Scotland. At the Reformation, its annual revenues were 442 bolls of wheat, 640 bolls of bear, 560 bolls of oats, 500 capons, two dozen of hens, as many salmon, 12 loads of salt; besides a great number of swine, and about 250l. sterling in money. At the Reformation, the superiority of North Leith, part of the Pleaance, the barony of Broughton, and the Canongate, were vested in the earl of Roxburgh; and were purchased from him by the town council of Edinburgh in 1636. In 1544, the church suffered considerably by the invasion of the English; but was speedily repaired. At the Restoration, King Charles II. ordered the church to be set apart as a chapel royal, and prohibited its use as a common parish church for the future. It was then fitted up in a very elegant manner. A throne was erected for the sovereign, and 12 stalls for the knights of the order of the thistle: but as mass had been celebrated in it in the reign of James VII. and it had an organ, with a spire, and a fine chime of bells on the west side, the Presbyterians at the Revolution entirely destroyed its ornaments, and left nothing but the bare walls.—Through time, the roof of the church became ruinous; on which the duke of Hamilton represented its condition to the barons of exchequer, and craved that it might be repaired. This request was complied with: but the architect and mason who were employed, covered the roof with thick flag stones, which soon impaired the fabric; and on the 2d of December 1768, the roof fell in. Since that time, no attempt has been made to repair it, and it is now entirely fallen to ruin.

The ruins of this church, however, are still sufficient to discover the excellency of the workmanship. Here some of the kings of Scotland are interred; and an odd odd kind of curiosity has been the occasion of exposing some bones said to be those of Lord Darnley and a countess of Roxburgh who died several hundred years ago. Those said to belong to the former were very large, and the latter had some flesh dried upon them. The chapel was fitted up in the elegant manner above mentioned by James VII. but such was the enthusiasm of the mob, that they not only destroyed the ornaments, but tore up even the pavement, which was of marble.

To the eastward of the palace is the bowling green, now entirely in disorder; and behind it is a field called St Ann's Yards. Beyond this is a piece of ground called the King's Park; which undoubtedly was formerly overgrown with wood, though now there is not a single tree in it. It is about three miles in circumference; and was first enclosed by James V. It contains the rocky hills of Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Craigs, which last afford an inexhaustible stone quarry; and upon the north side of the hill stands an old ruinous chapel, dedicated to St Anthony. The stones are used in building, as well as for paving the streets and highways. The park was mortgaged to the family of Haddington for a debt due to them; and by the present earl has been divided into a number of enclosures by stone dykes raised at a considerable expense. A good number of sheep and some black cattle are fed upon it; and it is now rented at 1500l. annually.

3. St Giles's Church, is a beautiful Gothic building, measuring in length 206 feet. At the west end, its breadth is 110; in the middle, 129; and at the east end, 76 feet. It has a very elevated situation, and is adorned with a lofty square tower; from the sides and corners of which rise arches of figured stone work: these meeting with each other in the middle, complete the figure of an imperial crown, the top of which terminates in a pointed spire. The whole height of this tower is 161 feet.

This is the most ancient church in Edinburgh. From a passage in an old author called Simeon Dunelmensis, some conjecture it to have been built before the year 854; but we do not find express mention made of it before 1359. The tutelar saint of this church, and of Edinburgh, was St Giles, a native of Greece. He lived in the fifth century, and was descended of an illustrious family. On the death of his parents, he gave all his estate to the poor; and travelled into France, where he retired into a wilderness near the conflux of the Rhone with the sea, and continued there three years. Having obtained the reputation of extraordinary sanctity, various miracles were attributed to him; and he founded a monastery in Languedoc, known long after by the name of St Giles'.—In the reign of James II. Mr Preston of Gorton, a gentleman whose descendants still possess an estate in the county of Edinburgh, got possession of the arm of this saint; which relic he bequeathed to the church of Edinburgh. In gratitude for this donation, the magistrates granted a charter in favour of Mr Preston's heirs, by which the nearest heir of the name of Preston was entitled to carry it in all processions. At the same time, the magistrates obliged themselves to found an altar in the church of St Giles's, and appoint a chaplain for celebrating an annual mass for the soul of Mr Preston; and likewise, that a tablet, containing his arms, and an account of his pious donation, should be put up in the chapel.—St Giles's was first simply a parish church, of which the bishop of Lindisfarne or Holy Island, in the county of Northumberland, was patron. He was succeeded in the patronage by the abbot and canons of Dunfermline, and they by the magistrates of Edinburgh. In 1466, it was erected into a collegiate church by James III. At the Reformation, the church was, for the greater convenience, divided into several parts. The four principal ones are appropriated to divine worship, the lesser ones to other purposes. At the same time the religious utensils belonging to this church were seized by the magistrates. They were,—St Giles's arm, enamelled in silver, weighing five pounds three ounces and a half; a silver chalice, or communion cup, weighing 23 ounces; the great eucharist or communion cup, with golden weike and flores; two cruets of 25 ounces; a golden bell, with a heart, of four ounces and a half; a golden unicorn; a golden pix, to keep the host; a small golden heart, with two pearls; a diamond ring; a silver chalice, patine, and spoon, of 32 ounces and a half; a communion table cloth of gold brocade; St Giles's coat, with a little piece of red velvet which hung at his feet; a round silver eucharist; two silver censers, of three pounds fifteen ounces; a silver ship for incense; a large silver cros, with its base, weighing sixteen pounds thirteen ounces and a half; a triangular silver lamp; two silver candlesticks, of seven pounds three ounces; other two, of eight pounds thirteen ounces; a silver chalice gilt, of 20½ ounces; a silver chalice and cros, of 7½ ounces; besides the priests robes, and other vestments, of gold brocade, crimson velvet embroidered with gold, and green damask.—These were all sold, and part of the money applied to the repairs of the church; the rest was added to the funds of the corporation.

In the steeple of St Giles's church are three large bells brought from Holland in 1621; the biggest, weighing 2000lb. the second 700, and the third 500. There are also a set of music bells, which play every day between one and two o'clock, or at any time in the case of rejoicings. The cathedral is divided by partition walls; and the principal apartments are used as four separate churches, which are distinguished by the names of the New or High Church, the Old Church, the Tolbooth Church, which is contiguous to the prison, and the Little Church, or Haddow's Hole Church, which derives its latter name from a gentleman who had been confined in it. The principal division is called the High Church, which has been elegantly repaired and new seated. There is a very elegant and finely ornamented seat for his majesty, with a canopy supported by four Corinthian pillars decorated in high taste. This seat is used by the king's commissioner during the time the General Assembly sits. On the right hand is a seat for the lord high constable of Scotland, whose office it is to keep the peace within doors in his majesty's presence; it being the duty of the earl marshal to do the same without. The seats belonging to the lords of council and session are on the right of the lord high constable; and on the left of the throne was a seat for the lord high chancellor of Scotland; but that office being now abolished, the seat is occupied by others. On the left of this fit the barons of exchequer; and, to the left of them, the lord provost, magistrates, and town council. The pulpit, king's seat, and galleries, are covered with crimson velvet with gold and silk fringes.

The aisle of St Giles's church is fitted up with seats for the general assembly who meet here; and there is a throne for his majesty's commissioner with a canopy of crimson silk damask, having the king's arms embroidered with gold, presented by the late Lord Cathcart to his successor in office. In this church is a monument dedicated to the memory of Lord Napier, baron of Merchiston, well known as the inventor of logarithms; a second to the earl of Murray, regent of Scotland during the minority of James VI.; and a third to the great marquis of Montrose.

4. The Parliament House, in the great hall of which the Scottish parliament used to assemble, is a magnificent building. The hall is 123 feet long and 42 broad, with a fine arched roof of oak, painted and gilded. In this the lawyers and agents now attend the courts, and single judges fit to determine causes in the first instance, or to prepare them for the whole court, who sit in an inner room formerly appropriated to the privy council. This inner apartment has been lately repaired and very commodiously fitted up. In a niche of the wall is placed a fine marble statue of President Forbes, erected at the expence of the faculty of advocates. There are also full-length portraits of King William III. Queen Mary his consort, and Queen Anne, all done by Sir Godfrey Kneller; also of George I. John duke of Argyll and Archibald duke of Argyll, by Mr Aikman of Cairney.

Above stairs were formerly the court of exchequer and treasury chamber, with the different offices belonging to that department; but these were removed in 1803 to the apartments in the royal exchange occupied by the customhouse; and below is one of the most valuable libraries in Great Britain, belonging to the faculty of advocates. Besides 30,000 printed volumes, there are many scarce and valuable manuscripts, medals, and coins: here is also an entire mummy in its original chest, presented to the faculty (at the expence of 300l.) by the earl of Morton, late president to the Royal Society. As these rooms are immediately below the hall where the parliament sat, they are subject to a search by the lord high constable of Scotland ever since the gunpowder plot; and this is specified in the gift from the city to the faculty. This library was founded, in the year 1682, by Sir George Mackenzie lord advocate. Among other privileges, it is entitled to a copy of every book entered in Stationers hall. Before the great door is a noble equestrian statue of Charles II. the proportions of which are reckoned exceedingly just. Over the entrance are the arms of Scotland, with Mercy and Truth on each side for supporters.

The court of session, the supreme tribunal in Scotland, consists of 15 judges, who sit on a circular bench, clothed in purple robes turned up with crimson velvet. Six of these are lords of the judicary, and go the circuit twice a-year; but, in that capacity, they wear scarlet robes turned up with white satin.

5. The Tolbooth was erected in 1561, not for the purposes merely of a prison, but likewise for the accommodation of the parliament and other courts; but it has since become so very unfit for any of these purposes, that it is now proposed to pull it down, and rebuild it in some other place, especially as it is very inconvenient in its present situation on account of its encumbering the street. The provost is captain of the tolbooth, with a gaoler under him: and the latter has a monopoly of all the provisions for the prisoners; a circumstance which must certainly be considered as a grievous oppression, those who are least able to purchase them being thus obliged to do so at the highest price. There is a chaplain who has a salary of 30l. a-year.

6. Bridewell. "On the Calton-hill, to be seen from the North Bridge, is a correction-house or Bridewell, built within these few years. It is a strong stone fabric. The principal part of the building is in the form of the letter D, with a house for the governor at some distance opposite to the northern or rectilinear part of it. The whole is surrounded by lofty walls, betwixt which and the house is an area laid out as a garden.

"This is said to be one of the most complete buildings of the kind in Britain. It consists of five stories; the uppermost of which is used as an hospital for sick prisoners and for store-rooms, &c. The other four stories are laid out in the following manner: A passage goes along the middle of the semicircular part of the building with apartments on each hand. The apartments on the outward side of the curvature are smaller than those on the inner side. They are double the number, and are used as separate bed-chambers for each of the persons confined. The apartments on the inner side of the semicircle, of which there are thirteen in each story, are allotted for labour. They have a grate in front, and look into the inner court. Opposite to them, in the flat side of the building, is a dark apartment with narrow windows, from which, without being seen, the governor can see how the prisoners in the apartments for work are employed. The court, or space in the middle between the flat and semicircular part of the building, is roofed in at the top; and a great part of it is covered with glass, so as to light the whole. On the floor of the area is a stove, which during winter heats the whole apartments allotted to labour. There is also a pulpit, from which a chaplain preaches on Sundays; and the prisoners come into the front apartments to attend the service.

"The bed-chambers, looking outwards to the country, are lighted by a long narrow window in each. The window is glazed. The frame in which the glass is fixed is of iron. It turns on pivots fixed at the top and bottom, so as to be opened and shut at pleasure. Each bed-chamber, which is about eight feet long by seven broad, is furnished with a bed and a bible. The frame of the bed is of iron, the bed consists of a straw mattress of the best quality. The whole floors and partitions of the building are of stone. No wood is used excepting for the doors of the apartments. There are cells, however, for solitary confinement for male criminals, in which the frames of the beds are of wood, left, by breaking them, tools or weapons of a dangerous nature should be obtained. Large cisterns, supplied with water from the city's reservoir, are placed at the top of the house, from which the water is distributed to the different stories, and to a kitchen, washing house, and baths, on the ground floor.

"The institution is managed with great care. Besides being superintended by the magistrates of Edinburgh, the sheriff of the county once each month visits every corner of it. It is kept in a state of the most perfect cleanliness. The prisoners, when first received, are clothed in a uniform belonging to the place; and their own clothes, after being cleaned, are preserved for them till their disposition. They remain during the day in the apartments allotted to labour, from which they are always dismissed as soon as it becomes dark to their bed-chambers. The women spin, and the men pick oakum. Their food consists of oatmeal porridge with small beer for breakfast and supper; and for dinner, of broth made of fat and vegetables, resembling what in Scotland is called shearer's bail (reaper's broth). Those that exert any tolerable industry are allowed bread to their broth, and also a larger portion of porridge. Only one death has occurred in the house during the last four years; and in that case the individual who died had come into Bridewell under a complication of diseases. In truth, the food, clothing, good air, and comfortable lodging, which are enjoyed in this place, are far superior to what the greater number of inhabitants can expect to obtain on their return to the world at large. To reside here, therefore, is a punishment from moral and not from physical causes; that is to say, because it is attended with the loss of freedom and of society, and because it is a place of infamy."

7. There is a hall in the Writers Court belonging to the clerks to his majesty's signet, where there is also an office for the business of the signet. The office of keeper of the signet is very lucrative, and he is allowed a deputy and clerks under him. Before any one enters into this society he must attend the college for two years, and serve five years as an apprentice to one of the society. There is a very excellent library belonging to this hall, which is rapidly increasing, as every one who enters must pay 10l. towards it. He pays also 100l. of apprentice fee, and 100l. when he enters.

8. The Exchange is a large and elegant building, with a court of about 90 feet square in the middle. On the north side are piazzas where people can walk under cover, the other three sides being laid out in shops; but the merchants have never made use of it to meet in, still standing in the street as formerly. The back part of the building formerly used for the general customhouse of Scotland, where the commissioners met to transact business, is now occupied by the offices connected with the Exchequer. They had above 20 offices for the different departments, to which the access is by a hanging stair 60 feet in height. In looking over the window before he ascends this stair, a stranger is surprised to find himself already 40 feet from the ground, which is owing to the declivity on which the Exchange is built. The fine mansion of Bellevue north of the New Town is now converted into apartments for the customhouse.

The Trustees Office for the improvement of fisheries and manufactures in Scotland is in the south-west corner of the Exchange; the fund under their management being part of the equivalent money given to Scotland at the Union. This is distributed in premiums amongst those who appear to have made any considerable improvement in the arts.

9. The North Bridge, which forms the main passage of communication betwixt the Old and New Towns, was founded, as has already been observed, in 1763 by Provost Drummond; but the contract for building it was not signed till August 21, 1765. The architect was Mr William Mylne, who agreed with the town council of Edinburgh to finish the work for 10,140l. and to uphold it for 10 years. It was also to be finished before Martinmas 1766: but on the 3d of August that year, when the work was nearly completed, the vaults and side walls on the south fell down, and five people were buried in the ruins. This misfortune was occasioned by the foundation having been laid, not upon the solid earth, but upon the rubbish of the houses which had long before been built on the north side of the High street, and which had been thrown out into the hollow to the northward. Of this rubbish there were no less than eight feet between the foundation of the bridge and the solid earth. Besides this deficiency in the foundation, an immense load of earth which had been laid over the vaults and arches in order to raise the bridge to a proper level, had no doubt contributed to produce the catastrophe above mentioned.—The bridge was repaired, by pulling down some parts of the side walls, and afterwards rebuilding them; strengthening them in others with chain bars; removing the quantity of earth laid upon the vaults, and supplying its place with hollow arches, &c. The whole was supported at the south end by very strong buttresses and countersforts on each side; but on the north it has only a single support.—The whole length of the bridge, from the High street in the Old Town to Prince's street in the New, is 112 1/2 feet; the total length of the piers and arches is 310 feet. The width of the three great arches is 72 feet each; of the piers, 13 1/2 feet; and of the small arches, each 20 feet. The height of the great arches, from the top of the parapet to the base, is 68 feet; the breadth of the bridge within the wall over the arches is 40 feet, and the breadth at each end 50 feet.—On the southern extremity of this bridge stands the General Post Office for Scotland; a neat plain building, with a proper number of apartments for the business, and a house for the secretary.

The communication betwixt the two towns by means of this bridge, though very complete and convenient for such as lived in certain parts of either, was yet found insufficient for those who inhabit the western districts. Another bridge being therefore necessary, it was proposed to fill up the valley occasionally with the rubbish dug out in making the foundations of houses in the New Town; and so great was the quantity, that this was accomplished so as to be fit for the passage of carriages in little more than four years and a half.

10. The South Bridge is directly opposite to the other, so as to make but one street, crossing that called the High Street almost at right angles. It consists of 19 arches of different sizes: but only one of them is visible, viz. the large one over the Cowgate; and even this is small in comparison with those of the North Bridge, being no more than 30 feet wide and 31 feet high. On the south it terminates at the University on one hand, and the Royal Infirmary on the other. The Tron Church, properly called Christ Church, stands at the northern extremity, facing the High street, and in the middle of what is now called Hunter's Square, in memory of the worthy chief magistrate who planned those improvements, but did not live to see them executed. executed. On the west side of this square the Merchant Company have built a very handsome hall for the occasional meetings of their members. This bridge was erected with a design to give an easy access to the great number of streets and squares on the south side, as well as to the country on that quarter from whence the city is supplied with coals. The street on the top is supposed to be as regular as any in Europe; every house being of the same dimensions, excepting that between every two of the ordinary construction there is one with a pediment on the top, in order to prevent that sameness of appearance which would otherwise take place. So great was the rage for purchasing ground on each side of this bridge for building, that the areas sold by public auction at 50l. per foot in front. By this the community will undoubtedly be considerable gainers; and the proprietors hope to indemnify themselves for their extraordinary expense by the vast sale of goods supposed to attend the shops in that part of the town; though this seems somewhat more dubious than the former.

11. The Concert Hall, called also St Cecilia's Hall, stands in Niddery's street; and was built in 1762, after the model of the great opera theatre in Parma. The plan was drawn by Sir Robert Mylne, architect of Blackfriars bridge. The musical room is of an oval form, the ceiling being a concave elliptical dome, lighted from the top by a lantern. The seats are ranged in the form of an amphitheatre; and are capable of containing 500 persons, besides leaving a large area in the middle of the room. The orchestra is at the upper end, and is terminated by an elegant organ.

The musical society was first instituted in the year 1728. Before that time, several gentlemen had formed a weekly club at a tavern kept by one Steil, a great lover of music, and a good finger of Scots songs. Here the common entertainment consisted in playing on the harpsichord and violin the concertos and sonatas of Handel, just then published. The meeting, however, soon becoming numerous, they instituted, in the year above mentioned, a society of 70 members, for the purpose of holding a weekly concert. The affairs of the society were regulated by a governor, deputy-governor, treasurer, and five directors, who were annually chosen by the members. The meetings were continued ever since that time on much the same footing as at first, and the number of members increased to 200. The weekly concerts were on Friday; the tickets being given gratis by the directors, and attention paid in the first place to strangers. Oratorios were occasionally performed throughout the year; and the principal performers had also benefit concerts. The band were excellent in their several departments; and several of the members being also good performers, took their part in the orchestra. There were always many applications on the occasion of a vacancy; and such was generally the number of candidates, that it was no easy matter to be admitted. This society, however, has been long neglected, and the hall disposed of for other purposes.

12. The University. In the year 1581, a grant was obtained from King James VI. for founding a college or university within the city of Edinburgh; and the citizens, aided by various donations from well-disposed persons, purchased a situation for the intended new college, consisting of part of the areas, chambers, and church of the collegiate provostry and prebends of Kirk-a-field, otherwise called Templum et Praefectura Sanctae Marie in campis, lying on the south side of the city. Next year, a charter of confirmation and erection was obtained also from King James VI. from which the college to be built did afterwards derive all the privileges of an university.

In 1583, the provost, magistrates, and council, the patrons of this new institution, prepared the place in the best manner they could for the reception of teachers and students; and in the month of October the same year, Robert Rollock, whom they had invited from a professorship in St Salvator's College in the university of St Andrew's, began to teach in the new college of Edinburgh. Other professors were soon after elected; and in the year 1586, Rollock was appointed principal of the college, and the following year also professor of divinity, immediately after he had conferred the degree of M.A. on the students who had been under his tuition for four years. The offices of principal and professor of divinity remained united till the year 1620.

In the 1617, King James VI. having visited Scotland after his accession to the crown of England, commanded the principal and regents of the college of Edinburgh to attend him in Stirling castle; and after they had there held a solemn philosophical disputation in the royal presence, his majesty was so much satisfied with their appearance, that he desired their college for the future might be called The College of King James, which name it still bears in all its diplomas or public deeds.

For several years the college consisted only of a principal, who was also professor of divinity, with four regents or professors of philosophy. Each of these regents instructed one class of students for four years, in Latin, Greek, school logic, mathematics, ethics, and physics, and graduated them at the conclusion of the fourth course. A professor of humanity or Latin was afterwards appointed, who prepared the students for entering under the tuition of the regents; also a professor of mathematics, and a professor of Hebrew or Oriental languages. It was not till about the year 1710 that the four regents began to be confined each to a particular profession; since which time they have been commonly styled Professors of Greek, Logic, Moral Philosophy, and Natural Philosophy.—The first medical professors instituted at Edinburgh, were Sir Robert Sibbald and Doctor Archibald Pitcairn, in the year 1685.* These, however, were only titular professors; and for 30 years afterwards, a summer lecture on the official plants, and the dissection of a human body once in two or three years, completed the whole course of medical education at Edinburgh. In 1720, an attempt was made to teach the different branches of physic regularly; which succeeded so well, that ever since, the reputation of the university as a school for medicine hath been constantly increasing, both in the island of Britain, and even among distant nations.

The college is endowed with a very fine library, founded in 1580 by Mr Clement Little advocate, who bequeathed it to the town council. They ordered a house to be built for it in the neighbourhood of St Giles's church, where it was for some time kept under the care of the eldest minister of Edinburgh, but was afterwards removed to the college. This collection is enriched, as well as others of a similar kind, by receiving a copy of every book entered in Stationers hall, according to the statute for the encouragement of authors. Besides this, the only fund it has is the money paid by all the students at the university, except those of divinity, upon their being matriculated; and a sum of 5l. given by each professor at his admission. The amount of these sums is uncertain, but has been estimated at about 150l. annually. The students of divinity, who pay nothing to this library, have one belonging to their own particular department.

Here are shown two skulls, one almost as thin as paper, pretended to be that of the celebrated George Buchanan; and, by way of contrast, another said to have been that of an idiot, and which is excessively thick. Here also are preserved the original protest against the council of Constance for burning John Hus and Jerome of Prague in 1417; the original contract of Queen Mary with the dauphin of France, and some valuable coins and medals. There are also several portraits; particularly of Robert Rollock the first principal of the university, King James VI. John Napier the inventor of logarithms, John Knox, Principal Caritairs, Mr Thomson the author of the Seasons, &c. The museum contains a good collection of natural curiosities, the number of which is daily increasing. The anatomical preparations are worth notice, as are also those belonging to the professor of midwifery.

The celebrity of this college has been greatly owing to the uniform attention of the magistracy in filling up the vacant chairs with men of known abilities in their respective departments.

The university of Edinburgh "having been instituted after the Reformation, among a frugal people that had no love for ecclesiastical dignities, it differs greatly from the wealthy foundations which receive the name of universities and colleges in England, or in the catholic countries of the continent of Europe. The university of Edinburgh consists of a single college, which enjoys the privilege of conferring degrees. It consists of a principal, with a salary of 1111. 2s. 0 3d. whose office is in a great measure nominal, and of a professor in each of the following departments:

Faculty of Theology.

<table> <tr> <th></th> <th>Salaries.</th> </tr> <tr> <td>Divinity</td> <td>L.161 2 0 3</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Church history</td> <td>100 0 0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Oriental languages</td> <td>119 12 8</td> </tr> </table>

Faculty of Law.

Law of Nature and Nations.—Salary variable, but always above 300 0 0 Civil Law 100 0 0 Scots Law 100 0 0 Civil History and Antiquities 100 0 0

Faculty of Medicine.

<table> <tr> <th></th> <th>Salaries</th> </tr> <tr> <td>Anatomy and Surgery</td> <td>50 0 0</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Practice of Medicine</td> <td>— — —</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Botany</td> <td>77 15 6 3</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Materia Medica</td> <td>— — —</td> </tr> <tr> <td>Chemistry</td> <td>— — —</td> </tr> </table>

Salaries Edinburgh.

<table> <tr> <th>Theory of Medicine</th> <th>— — —</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Midwifery</th> <th>— — —</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Clinical Surgery</th> <th>100 0 0</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Military Surgery</th> <th>100 0 0</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Medical Jurisprudence</th> <th>100 0 0</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Natural History</th> <th>70 0 0</th> </tr> </table>

Faculty of Arts.

<table> <tr> <th>Moral Philosophy</th> <th>102 4 5 1</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Rhetoric and Belles Lettres</th> <th>70 0 0</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Greek</th> <th>52 4 5 1</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Latin</th> <th>52 10 0</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Natural Philosophy</th> <th>52 4 5 1</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Mathematics</th> <th>113 6 8</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Practical Astronomy</th> <th>100 0 0</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Logic</th> <th>52 4 5 1</th> </tr> <tr> <th>Agriculture</th> <th>50 0 0</th> </tr> </table>

"Of these, the professors of church history and natural history, botany, clinical and military surgery, medical jurisprudence, astronomy, law of nature and nations, and rhetoric, are in the gift of the crown. The professor of agriculture was nominated by Sir William Pultney, founder of the institution. The remaining chairs are in the gift of the town-council of Edinburgh. Besides these classes here enumerated, the medical professors alternately give clinical lectures upon the cases of the patients in the royal infirmary of Edinburgh."

The university is now attended by not less than from 1200 to 1400 students in the different departments of science and literature.

The old buildings being very mean, and unfit for the reception of so many professors and students, and quite unfuitable to the dignity of such a flourishing university, as well as inconsistent with the improved state of the city, the Lord Provost, Magistrates, and Council, set on foot a subscription for erecting a new structure, according to a design of Robert Adam, Esq. architect. Part of the old fabric has in consequence been pulled down, and the new building is already in considerable forwardness. The foundation stone was laid on Monday the 16th of November, with great solemnity, by the Right Hon. Francis Lord Napier, grand master mason of Scotland, in the presence of the Right Hon. the Lord Provost, Magistrates, and Town Council of the city of Edinburgh, with the principal, professors, and students of the university of Edinburgh, a number of nobility and gentry, and the masters, officers, and brethren of all the lodges of free masons in the city and neighbourhood, who marched in procession from the Parliament House down the High street. After the different masonic ceremonials were performed, two crystal bottles, cast on purpose at the glass house of Leith, were deposited in the foundation stone. In one of these were put different coins of the present reign, each of them being previously enveloped in crystal, in such an ingenious manner, that the legend on the coins could be distinctly read without breaking the crystal. In the other bottle were deposited seven rolls of vellum, containing a short account of the original foundation and present state of the university, together with several other papers, in particular the different newspapers, containing advertisements relative to the college, &c. and a list of Edinburgh, the names of the principal and professors, also of the present lord provost and magistrates, and officers of the grand lodge of Scotland. The bottles being carefully sealed up, were covered with a plate of copper wrapt in block tin; and upon the under side of the copper were engraved the arms of the city of Edinburgh and the university; likewise the arms of the Right Hon. Lord Napier, grand master mason of Scotland. Upon the upper side, a Latin inscription, of which the following is a copy:

ANNUENTE DEO OPT. MAX. REGNANTE GEORGIO III PRINCIPE MUNIFICENTISSIMO; ACADEMIE EDINBURGENSIS ÆDIBUS, INITIO QUIDEM HUMILIMIS, ET JAM, POST DUO SECULA, PENE RUINOSIS; NOVI HUIUS ÆDIFICII, UBI COMMODITATI SIMUL ET ELEGANTIÆ, TANTO DOCTRINARUM DOMICILIO DIGNÆ. CONSULERE TUR, PRIMUM LAPIDEM POSUIT, PLAUDENTE INGENTI OMNIUM ORDINUM FREQUENTIA, VIR NOBILISSIMUS FRANCISCUS DOMINUS NAPIER, REIPUB. ARCHITECTORICÆ APUD SCOTOS CURIO MAXIMUS: XVI. KAL. DECMB. ANNO SALUTIS HUMANÆ MDCCCLXXXIX. ÆTRÆ ARCHITECTORICÆ IDIJOCCCLXXXIX. CONSULE THOMA ELDER, ACADEMIE PRÆFECTO GULIELMO ROBERTSON, ARCHITECTO ROBERTO ADAM. Q. F. F. Q. S.

The east and west fronts of this pile are to extend 255 feet, and the south and north 318. There are to be houses for the principal and fix or seven of the professors. The library is to be a room of 160 feet in length; the museum for natural curiosities is to be of the same extent; and the dimensions of the hall for degrees and public exercises are about 90 feet by 30. There are likewise to be an elegant and most convenient anatomical theatre*; a chemical laboratory; and large rooms for instruments and experiments for the professors of mathematics, natural philosophy, and agriculture. The whole, when finished, if not the most splendid structure of the sort in Europe, will however be the completest and most commodious. The progress of the building has now (1804) stopped. The front was completed by the aid of royal munificence; but after an expenditure of 50,000l. it is supposed that not more than one third of the plan has been executed.

The botanical garden belonging to the university is situated at the distance of about a mile, on the road between Edinburgh and Leith. It consists of about five acres of ground; and is furnished with a great variety of plants, many of them brought from the most distant quarters of the globe. The professor is botanist to the king, and receives a salary of 120l. annually for the support of the garden. A monument, to the memory of the celebrated botanist Linnaeus, was erected here by the late Dr Hope, who first planned the garden, and brought it to perfection.

The university of Edinburgh, like the others in this kingdom, sends one member to the General Assembly of the church of Scotland; and the widows of the professors have a right to the funds of those of ministers, the professors being trustees on that fund along with the prebistery of Edinburgh.

"In the year 1772, the Board of Trustees for the encouragement of Manufactures, &c. in Scotland, appointed Mr Alexander Runciman, painter, to teach 20 boys or girls drawing, allowing him a yearly salary of 120l. He was succeeded in this office by Mr Allan, to whom followed Mr Graham. This institution being appropriated for the use of manufactures, is not properly a school of painting. In this last art, however, very eminent teachers are to be found in Edinburgh, but no public establishment exists for its encouragement.

"Near the University there is also a Riding School, called the Royal Academy for teaching Exercises. The teacher of this academy receives a salary of 200l. a-year from the crown, and is accommodated with a riding school of 120 feet in length by 40 in breadth, and stables to a considerable extent.

"In Edinburgh there is established, in imitation of that in London, a Royal Society, which has published some volumes of transactions. It contains a number of members of great repectability; but in Edinburgh men of letters are apt to be extremely jealous and unfociable with regard to each other. This illiberality of temper prevents the Royal Society from being of much value. Great numbers of the most accomplished and active men of letters are unconnected with it, while it contains others who have been introduced to it merely by their rank in the world, or the circumstance of having attained to distinguished literary situations by the patronage of men in power, who of late years have, in this country, displayed little of that anxiety to discriminate and bring into notice men of literary talents, which once formed the most honourable characteristic of the nobles and statesmen of Scotland."

13. The Royal Infirmary was first thought of by the College of Physicians in 1725. A fishing company happening to be dissolved at that time, the partners contributed some of their stock towards the establishment of the Infirmary. A subscription was also set on foot, and application made to the General Assembly to recommend the same throughout their jurisdiction. This was readily complied with, and the assembly passed an act for that purpose; but very little regard was paid to it by the clergy. Notwithstanding this, however 2000l. being procured, a small house was opened for the reception of the sick poor in August 1729. In 1736, the contributors towards the Infirmary were erected into a body corporate by royal statute; and after this the contributions increased very considerably: by which means the managers were enabled to enlarge their scheme from time to time; and at last to undertake the present magnificent structure, the foundation of which was laid in 1738. During 25 years, when this institution was in its infancy, Lord Hopetoun bestowed upon it an annuity of 400l. In 1750, Doctor Archibald Ker bequeathed to this incorporation 200l. a-year in the island of Jamaica. In 1755, the lords lords of the treasury made a donation to it of 800l. which had been appointed for the support of invalids. In return for this, the managers of the Infirmary constantly keep 60 beds in readiness for the reception of sick soldiers. This year also sick servants began to be admitted into the Infirmary, and a ward was fitted up for their reception.

This institution, however, was more indebted to George Drummond, Esq. than to any other person. He was seven times chosen lord provost of Edinburgh; and always directed his attention to the improvement of the city, particularly to that of the Royal Infirmary. So sensible were the managers of their obligations to him, that, in their hall, they erected a bust of him with this inscription, "George Drummond, to whom this country is indebted for all the benefit which it derives from the Royal Infirmary."—In 1748, the stock of the Infirmary amounted to 500l.; in 1755, to 7076l. besides the estate left by Doctor Ker; in 1764, to 23,426l.; and in 1778, to 27,074l.

The Royal Infirmary is attended by two physicians chosen by the managers, who visit their patients daily in presence of the students. All the members of the College of Surgeons were obliged to attend in rotation, according to seniority. If any surgeon declined attendance, he was not allowed to appoint a deputy; and the patients were committed to the care of one of four assistant surgeons, chosen annually by the managers: this was formerly the mode of attendance, but the managers have in consequence of a decision of the high court of judicature assumed to themselves the sole right of electing the surgeons.—From the year 1762 to 1769, there were admitted 6261 patients; which number added to 109 who were in the hospital at the commencement of the year 1762, made, in all, 6370. Of these, 4395 were cured; 358 died: the rest were either relieved, dismissed incurable, for irregularities, or by their own desire, or remained in the hospital.—From 1770 to 1775, the patients annually admitted into the Infirmary were, at an average, 1567; of whom 63 died. In 1766, there were admitted 1668, of whom 57 died; and in 1777, the number admitted was 1593, and of deaths 52. In the year 1786, there were admitted 1822 patients: Of these 1354 were cured; 166 relieved; 84 died: the rest were either relieved, dismissed incurable, for irregularities, or by their own desire.

The building consists of a body and two wings, each of them three stories high, with an attic story and garrets, and a very elegant front. The body is 210 feet long, and 36 broad in the middle, but at the ends only 24 feet broad. There is a bust of King George II. in a Roman dress, above the great door. The wings are 70 feet long, and 25 broad. In the centre is a large staircase, so wide that sedan chairs may be carried up. In the different wards, 228 patients may be accommodated, each in a different bed. There are cold and hot baths for the patients, and also for the citizens; and to these last the patients are never admitted.

Besides the apartments necessary for the sick, there are others for the officers and servants belonging to the house. There are likewise rooms for the managers, a consulting room for the physicians and surgeons, a waiting room for the students, and a theatre that will hold upwards of 200 people, for performing surgical operations. There is a military ward, supported by the interest of the 800l. already mentioned; and in consequence of which a small guard is always kept at the Infirmary. The wards for sick servants are supported by collections at the church doors. Besides the surgical attendance already mentioned, there are two physicians belonging to the house, who are elected by the managers, and have a salary: there is likewise a house surgeon and apothecary. Students who attend the Infirmary, paid formerly 3l. 3s., which is increased to 5l. 5s. annually, which brings in a considerable revenue towards defraying the expense of the house. Two wards are let apart for the patients whose cases are supposed to be most interesting; and the medical professors in the university give clinical lectures upon them by rotation.

14. The Public Dispensary was founded by Dr Duncan in 1776, for the poor whose diseases are of such a nature as to render their admission into the Infirmary either unnecessary or improper. Here the patients receive advice gratis four days in the week; a register is kept of the diseases of each, and of the effects produced by the medicines employed. All patients not improper for dispensary treatment are admitted on the recommendation of the elder or church warden of the parish where they reside. The physicians officiate and give lectures gratis; so that the apothecary who lodges in the house, and the medicines, are the only expenses attending this useful institution. The expense of the whole is defrayed by public contributions, and from a small annual fee paid by the students who attend the lectures. It is under the direction of a president, two vice-presidents and 20 directors elected annually from among the contributors. One guinea entitles a contributor to recommend patients and be a governor for two years, and five guineas gives the same privilege for life. Under the same management there is an institution for the gratuitous inoculation for the cowpox.

15. The High School. The earliest institution of a grammar school in Edinburgh seems to have been about the year 1519. The whole expense bestowed upon the first building of this kind amounted only to about 40l. sterling. Another building, which had been erected for the accommodation of the scholars in 1788, continued, notwithstanding the great increase of their number, to be used for that purpose till 1777. The foundation of the present new building was laid on the 24th of June that year by Sir William Forbes, Grand Master of the Free Masons. The total length of this building is 120 feet from south to north; the breadth in the middle 36, at each end 38 feet. The great hall where the boys meet for prayers, is 68 feet by 30. At each end of the hall is a room of 32 feet by 20, intended for libraries. The building is two stories high, the one 18, the other 17, feet in height. The expense of the whole was reckoned at 4000l.

There is a rector and four masters, who teach from 400 to 500 scholars annually. The salaries are trifling, and the fees depend upon the reputation they have obtained for teaching; and as this has been for some years very considerable, the rector's place is supposed to be worth not less than 400l. per annum, a master's about half that sum. There is a janitor, whose place is supposed to be worth about 70l. a-year. His business is Edinburgh, to take care of the boys on the play ground; and there is a woman who lives on the spot as under-janitor, whose place may be worth about 25l. annually. There is a library, but not large, as each of the boys pays only one shilling annually to its support.

There are four established English schools in Edinburgh, the masters of which receive a small salary, upon express condition that they shall not take above a limited sum per quarter from any of their scholars. There are likewise many other private schools in Edinburgh for all languages; and, in general, every kind of education is to be had here in great perfection and at a very cheap rate.

16. The Mint is kept up by the articles of Union, with all the offices belonging to it, though no money is ever struck here. It stands in the Cowgate, a little to the west of the English church, but is in a ruinous state, though still inhabited by the different officers, who have free houses; and the bellman enjoys his salary by regularly ringing the bell. This place, as well as the abbey of Holyroodhouse, is an asylum for debtors.

17. The English Chapel stands near the Cowgate Port, and was founded on the 3d of April 1771. The foundation stone was laid by General Oughton, with the following inscription: Edificii sacri Ecclesiae episc. Anglice, primum posuit lapidem J. Adolphus Oughton, in architettone Scotiae repub. curio maximus, mitium praefectus, regnante Georgio III. tertio Ap. die. A. D. MDCCLXXI. It is a plain handsome building, neatly fitted up in the inside, and somewhat resembling the church of St Martin's in the Fields, London. It is 90 feet long, 75 broad, and ornamented with an elegant spire of considerable height. It is also furnished with an excellent bell, formerly belonging to the chapel royal at Holyroodhouse, which is permitted to be rung for assembling the congregation; an indulgence not granted to the Presbyterians in England. The expence of the building was defrayed by voluntary subscription; and to the honour of the country, people of all persuasions contributed to this pious work. It has already cost 7000l. and will require 1000l. more to finish the portico. This church is built in a singular manner, viz. from south to north, and the altar-piece stands on the east side. Three clergymen officiate here, of whom the first has 150l. the other two 100l. each; the altar-piece is finely decorated, and there is a good organ.

There is another Episcopal chapel, but small, in Blackfriars wynd, which was founded by Baron Smith in the year 1722. There are also some meetings of the Episcopal church of Scotland, who adhere to their old forms, having still their bishops and inferior clergy. For some time these were subjected to penal laws, as they refused to take the oath to government, or mention the present royal family in their public prayers:

but having conformed, and taken the oath of allegiance, their conduct has been approved of by his majesty; so that now every denomination of Christians in Britain pray for the royal family on the throne.

18. Heriot's Hospital owes its foundation to George Heriot, goldsmith to James VI. who acquired by his business a large fortune. At his death, he left the magistrates of Edinburgh 23,625l. 10s. "for the maintenance, relief, and bringing up of so many poor and fatherless boys, freemen's sons of the town of Edinburgh," as the above sum should be sufficient for. This hospital is finely situated on the west end of the south ridge, almost opposite to the castle, and is the most magnificent building of the kind in Edinburgh. It was founded in July 1628, according to a plan (as is reported) of Inigo Jones; but the work being interrupted by the civil wars, it was not finished till the year 1650. The expence of the building is said to have been upwards of 30,000l. (A): and the hospital is now possessed of an income of about 3000l. a-year; though this cannot be absolutely ascertained, as the rents are paid in grain, and of course must be fluctuating.

It stands on a rising ground to the south-west of the city, and is a square of 162 feet without, having a court 94 feet square in the inside, with piazzas on three of the sides. There is a spire with a clock over the gateway, and each corner of the building is ornamented with turrets; but notwithstanding the magnificent appearance of the outside, the inner part is far from being convenient. There is a statue of the founder over the gateway, in the dress of the times, and a very good painting of him in the governors room, with a picture of the late treasurer Mr Carmichael. There is a chapel 61 feet long and 22 broad, which is now repairing in such a manner as will make it worthy of notice. When Cromwell took possession of Edinburgh after the battle of Dunbar, he quartered his sick and wounded soldiers in this hospital. It was applied to the same purpose till the year 1658, when General Monk, at the request of the governors, removed the soldiers; and on the 11th of April 1659, it was opened for the reception of boys, 30 of whom were admitted into it. The August after, they were increased to 40; and in 1661, to 52. In 1753 the number was raised to 130, and in 1763, to 140; but since that time it has decreased.—In this hospital the boys are instructed in reading, writing, arithmetic, and a knowledge of the Latin tongue. With such as choose to follow any kind of trade, an apprentice fee of 30l. is given when they leave the hospital; and those who choose an academical education, have an annuity of 10l. a-year bestowed on them for four years. The whole is under the oversight of the treasurer, who has under him a house governor, housekeeper, and schoolmasters.

(A) It is to be observed, that money then bore 10 per cent. interest.—The above sums are taken from Mr Arnot's History of Edinburgh, who subjoins the following note. "Where Maitland had collected his most erroneous account of George Heriot's effects we do not know. He makes the sum received, out of Heriot's effects, by the governors of the hospital, to be 43,608l. 11s. 3d. being almost double of what they really got. This blunder has been the cause of many unjust murmurings against the magistrates of Edinburgh, and even the means of spiriting up lawsuits against them." 19. Watson's Hospital has its name from the founder George Watson, who was at first clerk to Sir William Dick provost of Edinburgh in 1676, then accountant of the bank of Scotland; after that he became receiver of the city's impost on ale, treasurer to the Merchants Maiden Hospital, and to the Society for propagating Christian knowledge. Dying a bachelor in 1723, he left 12,000l. for the maintenance and education of the children and grandchildren of decayed members of the merchant company of Edinburgh. The scheme, however, was not put into execution till the year 1738, when the sum originally left had accumulated to 20,000l. The present building was then erected, in which about 60 boys are maintained and educated. It is much less magnificent than Heriot's Hospital, but the building is far from being despicable. It stands to the southward of the city at a small distance from Heriot's Hospital, and was erected at the expense of 5000l.: its present revenue is about 1700l. It is under the management of the master, assistants, and treasurer of the Merchant Company, four old bailies, the old dean of guild, and the two ministers of the Old church. The boys are genteelly clothed and liberally educated. Such as choose an university education are allowed 10l. per annum for five years: those who go to trades have 20l. allowed them for their apprentice fee, and at the age of 25 years, if they have behaved properly, and not contracted marriage without consent of the governors, they receive a bounty of 50l. The boys are under the immediate inspection of the treasurer, schoolmaster, and housekeeper.

20. The Merchants Maiden Hospital was established by voluntary contribution about the end of the last century, for the maintenance of young girls, daughters of the merchants burgesses of Edinburgh. The governors were erected into a body corporate, by act of parliament, in 1707. The annual revenue amounts to 1350l. Seventy girls are maintained in it; who, upon leaving the house, receive 3l. 6s. 8d. excepting a few who are allowed 8l. 6s. 8d. out of the funds of the hospital. The profits arising from work done in the house are also divided among the girls, according to their industry.

21. The Trades Maiden Hospital was founded in the year 1704 by the incorporations of Edinburgh, for the maintenance of the daughters of decayed members, on a plan similar to that of the Merchants hospital. To this, as well as to the former, one Mrs Mary Erskine, a widow gentlewoman, contributed so liberally, that she was by the governors styled joint foundress of the hospital. Fifty girls are maintained in the house, who pay of entry money 1l. 13s. 4d.; and, when they leave it, receive a bounty of 5l. 11s. 1½d. The revenues are estimated at 600l. a-year.

22. The Orphan Hospital was planned in 1732, by Andrew Gardiner merchant, and other inhabitants. It was promoted by the society for propagating Christian knowledge, by other societies, by voluntary subscriptions, and a collection at the church doors.—In 1733, the managers hired a house, took in 30 orphans, maintained them, gave them instructions in reading and writing, and taught them the weaving business. In 1735, they were erected into a body corporate by the town of Edinburgh: and, in 1742, they obtained a charter of erection from his late majesty, appointing most of the great officers of state in Scotland, Edinburgh, and the heads of the different societies in Edinburgh, members of this corporation; with powers to them to hold real property to the amount of 1000l. a-year. The revenue is inconsiderable; but the institution is supported by the contributions of charitable persons. Into this hospital orphans are received from any part of the kingdom. None are admitted under seven, nor continued in it after 14 years of age.

The orphan hospital is situated to the east of the North bridge; and is a handsome building, consisting of a body and two wings, with a neat spire, furnished with a clock and two bells. The late worthy Mr Howard admits, that this institution is one of the most useful charities in Europe, and is a pattern for all institutions of the kind. The funds have been considerably increased, and the building greatly improved, through the attention and exertions of Mr Thomas Tod formerly treasurer.

23. The Trinity Hospital. This was originally founded and amply endowed by King James II.'s queen. At the Reformation it was stripped of its revenues; but the regent afterwards bestowed them on the provost of Edinburgh, who gave them to the citizens for the use of the poor. In 1585, the town council purchased from Robert Pont, at that time provost of Trinity college, his interest in these subjects; and the transaction was afterwards ratified by James VI. The hospital was then repaired, and appointed for the reception of poor old burghers, their wives and unmarried children, not under 50 years of age. In the year 1700, this hospital maintained 54 persons; but, since that time, the number has decreased.—The revenue consists in a real estate of lands and houses, the gross rents of which are 762l. a year, and 5500l. lent out in bonds at 4 per cent.

This hospital is situated at the foot of Leith wynd, and maintains about 50 of both sexes, who are comfortably lodged, each having a room for themselves. They are supplied with roast or boiled meat every day for dinner, have money allowed them for clothes, and likewise a small sum for pocket money. There is a small library for their amusement, and they have a chaplain to say prayers. There are some out-pensioners who have 6l. a-year, but these are discouraged by the governors. The funds are under the management of the town council.

24. The Charity Workhouse was erected in 1743 by voluntary contribution. It is a large plain building, on the south side of the city. Here the poor are employed, and are allowed twopence out of every shilling they earn. The expence of this institution is supposed not to be less than 4000l. annually; as about 700 persons of both sexes, including children, are maintained here, each of whom cannot be reckoned to cost less than 4l. 10s. per annum; and there are besides 300 out pensioners. The only permanent fund for defraying this expence is a tax of two per cent. on the valued rents of the city, which may bring in about 600l. annually; and there are other funds which yield about 400l. The rest is derived from collections at the church doors and voluntary contributions; but as these always fall short of what is requisite, recourse must frequently be had to extraordinary collections. The sum arising from the rents of the city, however, is constantly Edinburgh, constantly increasing; but the members of the college of justice are exempted from the tax.

25. "To the south-west of the castle, near a suburb called the Wrights House, on the site of a very ancient building, which was demolished to make way for it, Gillespie's Hospital has lately been erected. Its appellation is derived from the founder, an eminent manufacturer of snuff in Edinburgh. It is intended for the support of aged persons; and those bearing the name of the founder are preferred. It is a neat stone building, executed in a style of moderate expense, with a small tower in the centre and a parapet, and Gothic turrets at suitable distances around the roof.

"Besides these there are to be found in Edinburgh several charitable establishments, which, though not furnished with costly buildings, are not of a less benevolent or valuable nature. Of these, one of the most distinguished is the Hospital or Workhouse, or Asylum, as it is called, for the Industrious Blind; which is supported by the contributions of charitable persons, and by the price of the articles manufactured in it. Here the blind are taught such trades as may enable them to earn a subsistence, or at least aid them in contributing to their own support. They manufacture baskets, mats, &c.; and some of them have been taught to act as weavers, for which purpose they use the fly-shuttle.

"The Magdalene Asylum also deserves notice; in which a most laudable attempt has of late years been made, by a benevolent society, to reclaim, from vice and misery, women who have degraded themselves by public prostitution, but who think fit to retire thither with the view of abandoning their mode of life, and of supporting themselves by industry. This institution is managed with a degree of care and delicacy which does the highest credit to its patrons. The objects of this charity are kept concealed; they reap the fruits of their own labour; and every effort is made to procure employment for them. In particular, needle-work of all sorts is executed in it in the neatest manner; and linen is washed, at moderate prices, for such persons in the city as think fit to transmit these articles to the society.

"Besides all these charities, there is an hospital in the city for Lying-in Women, under the care of the professor of midwifery: which is an institution analogous to that of the Royal Infirmary.—There is a Society for the Relief of the Destitute Sick, which has received considerable public countenance, though it has no appropriate building or local establishment.—An institution of a peculiar nature, not unconnected with the present subject, called the Repository, ought not to pass unnoticed. It is a shop or ware-room on South Bridge Street, to which ladies in straitened circumstances have an opportunity of finding for sale curious, beautiful, or useful articles of needle-work, with the price affixed. When a purchaser has been found for the goods, the proceeds are transmitted in such a manner as to prevent its being known to the public by whom the articles were prepared. This institution has been promoted by the duchess of Buccleugh and many other persons of rank."

There are two other charity workhouses in the suburbs, much on the same plan with that now described; one in the Canongate, and the other in St Cuthbert's Edinburgh or West Kirk parish.

To this account of the charitable establishments in Edinburgh, we shall add that of some others; which, though not calculated to decorate the city by any public building, are perhaps no less deserving of praise than any we have mentioned. The first is that of Captain William Horn; who left 3500l. in trust to the magistrates, the annual profits to be divided on Christmas day to poor out day labourers, who must at that season of the year be destitute of employment; five pounds to be given to those who have large families, and one half to those who have smaller.

Another charity is that of Robert Johnston, LL.D. of London, who in 1640 left 3000l. to the poor of this city; 1000l. to be employed in setting them to work, another 1000l. to clothe the boys in Heriot's Hospital, and the third 1000l. to bursars at the university.

About the beginning of this century John Strachan left his estate of Craigcrook, now upwards of 300l. a-year in trust to the presbytery of Edinburgh, to be by them disposed of in small annual sums to poor old people not under 65 years of age, and to orphans not above 12.

There is besides a society for the support of the industrious poor, another for the indigent sick, and there are also many charity schools.

Having thus given an account of the most remarkable edifices belonging to Old Edinburgh, we shall now proceed to those of the New Town. This is terminated on the east side by the Calton hill, round which there is a pleasant walk, and which affords one of the finest prospects that can be imagined, varying remarkably almost at every step. On this hill is a burying ground, which contains a fine monument to the memory of David Hume the historian.—On the top is an observatory, the scheme for building which was first adopted in the year 1736; but the disturbance occasioned by the Porteous mob prevented any thing from being done towards the execution of it at that time. The earl of Morton afterwards gave 100l. for the purpose of building an observatory, and appointed Mr M'Laurin professor of mathematics, together with the principal and some professors of the university, trustees for managing the sum. Mr M'Laurin added to the money above mentioned the profits arising from a course of lectures which he read on experimental philosophy; which, with some other small sums, amounted in all to 300l.; but Mr M'Laurin dying, the design was dropped.—Afterwards the money was put into the hands of two persons who became bankrupt; but a considerable dividend being obtained out of their effects, the principal and interest, about the year 1776, amounted to 400l. A plan of the building was made out by Mr Craig architect; and the foundation stone was laid by Mr Stodart, lord provost of Edinburgh, on the 25th of August 1776. About this time, however, Mr Adam architect happening to come to Edinburgh, conceived the idea of giving the whole the appearance of a fortification, for which its situation on the top of the Calton hill was very much adapted. Accordingly a line was marked out for enclosing the limits of the observatory with a wall constructed Edinburgh, surmounted with buttresses and embrasures, and having Gothic towers at the angles. Thus the money designed for the work was totally exhausted, and the observatory still remains unfinished; nor is there any appearance of its being soon completed either by voluntary subscription or any other way.

26. Proceeding to the westward, the first remarkable building is the Theatre, which stands opposite to the Register Office, in the middle of Shakespeare Square. The building is plain on the outside, but elegantly fitted up within, and is generally open three days in the week, and when full will draw about 150l. a night; so that the manager generally finds himself well rewarded when he can procure good actors.

Entertainments of the dramatic kind came very early into fashion in this country. They were at first only representations of religious subjects, and peculiarly designed to advance the interests of religion; the clergy being the composers, and Sunday the principal time of exhibition. In the 16th century, the number of playhouses was so great, that it was complained of as a nuisance, not only in Edinburgh, but throughout the kingdom. They soon degenerated from their original institution; and the plays, instead of being calculated to inspire devotion, became filled with all manner of buffoonery and indecency.—After the Reformation, the Presbyterian clergy complained of these indecencies; and being actuated by a spirit of violent zeal, anathematized every kind of theatrical representation whatever. King James VI. compelled them to pass from their censures against the stage; but in the time of Charles I. when fanaticism was carried to the utmost length at which perhaps it was possible for it to arrive, it cannot be supposed that stage plays would be tolerated.—It seems, however, that amusements of this kind were again introduced at Edinburgh about the year 1684, when the duke of York kept his court there. His residence at Edinburgh drew off one half of the London company, and plays were acted in Edinburgh for some little time. The misfortunes attending the duke of York, however, and the establishment of the Presbyterian religion (the genius of which is unfavourable to amusements of this kind), soon put a stop to the progress of the stage, and no theatrical exhibition was heard of in Edinburgh till after the year 1715. The first adventurer was Signora Violante, an Italian, remarkable for feats of strength, tumbling, &c. In this way the first exhibited in a house at the foot of Carrubber's close, which has since been employed by different feasters for religious purposes. Meeting with good success, she soon invited a company of comedians from London; and these being also well received, Edinburgh continued for some years to be entertained with the performances of a strolling company, who visited it annually. Becoming at last, however, obnoxious to the clergy, they were in 1727 prohibited by the magistrates from acting within their jurisdiction. But this interdict was suspended by the court of session, and the players continued to perform as usual.

Still, however, theatrical amusements were but rare. The town was visited by itinerant companies only once in two or three years. They performed in the Taylor's Hall in the Canongate; which, when the house was full, would have drawn (at the rate of 2s. 6d. for pit and boxes, and 1s. 6d. for the gallery) 40l. or Edinburgh's 45l. a night. About this time an act of parliament was passed, prohibiting the exhibition of plays, except in a house licensed by the king. Of this the presbytery of Edinburgh immediately laid hold; and at their own expense brought an action on the statute against the players. The cause was by the court of session decided against the players; who thereupon applied to parliament for a bill to enable his majesty to license a theatre in Edinburgh. Against this bill petitions were presented in 1739 to the house of commons by the magistrates and town council, the principal and professors of the university, and the dean of guild and his council; in consequence of which, the affair was dropped.. All this opposition, however, contributed in reality to the success of the players; for the spirit of party being excited, a way of evading the act was easily found out, and the house was frequented more than usual, insomuch that Taylor's Hall was found insufficient to contain the number of spectators.

The comedians now fell out among themselves, and a new playhouse was erected in the Canongate in the year 1746. The consequence of this was, that the old one in Taylor's Hall became entirely deserted, and through bad conduct the managers of the new theatre soon found themselves greatly involved. At last, a riot ensuing through diffusions among the performers, the playhouse was totally demolished.—When the extension of the royalty over the spot where the New Town is built was obtained, a clause was likewise added to the bill, enabling his majesty to license a theatre in Edinburgh. This was obtained, and thus the opposition of the clergy for ever silenced. But notwithstanding this, the high price paid by the managers to the patentee, being no less than 500 guineas annually, prevented them effectually from decorating the house as they would otherwise have done, or even from always retaining good actors in their service; by which means the success of the Edinburgh theatre has not been so great as might have been expected.

Not far from this building, an amphitheatre was opened in 1790, on the road to Leith, for equestrian exhibitions, pantomime entertainments, dancing, and tumbling. The circus was 60 feet diameter; and in the forenoon ladies and gentlemen were taught to ride. The house held about 1500 people. The building has been since converted into an elegant and commodious concert room.

27. The Register Office. This work was first suggested by the late earl of Morton, lord-register of Scotland, with a view to prevent the danger which attended the usual method of keeping the public records. In former times, indeed, these suffered from a variety of accidents. Edward I. carried off or destroyed most of them, in order to prevent any marks of the former independence of the nation from remaining to posterity. Afterwards Cromwell spoiled this nation of its records, most of which were sent to the Tower of London. At the time of the restoration many of them were sent down again by sea; but one of the vessels was shipwrecked, and the records brought by the other have ever since been left in the greatest confusion.—The earl of Morton taking this into consideration, obtained from his majesty a grant of 12,000l. out of the forfeited estates, for the purpose of building a register office, Edinburgh, office, or house for keeping the records, and disposing them in proper order. The foundation was laid on the 27th of June 1774, by Lord Frederick Campbell lord-register, Mr Montgomery of Stanhope lord advocate, and Mr Millar of Barkimming lord justice clerk; three of the trustees appointed by his majesty for executing the work. The ceremony was performed under a discharge of artillery, in presence of the judges of the courts of session and exchequer, and in the sight of a multitude of spectators. A glass plate was put into the foundation stone with the following inscription: CONSERVANDIS TABULIS PUBLICIS POSITUM EST, ANNO M.DCC.LXXIV, MUNIFICENTIA OPTIMI ET PIETISSIMI PRINCIPIS GEORGII TERTII. In a glass vase hermetically sealed, which is also placed in the foundation stone, are deposited specimens of the different coins of his present majesty.

The front of the building directly faces the bridge, extends from east to west 100 feet, and is 40 feet back from the line of Prince's street. In the middle of the front is a small projection of three windows in breadth. Here is a pediment, having in its centre the arms of Great Britain, and the whole is supported by four Corinthian pilasters. At each end is a tower projecting beyond the rest of the building, having a Venetian window in front, and a cupola on the top. The front is ornamented from end to end with a beautiful Corinthian entablature. In the centre of the building is a dome of wooden work covered with lead. The inside forms a saloon 50 feet diameter and 80 high, lighted at top by a copper window 15 feet in diameter. Round the whole is a hanging gallery of stone, with an iron balustrade, which affords convenience for preses in the walls for keeping the records. The whole number of apartments is 97; all of which are vaulted beneath, and warmed with fire-places. This building, which is the most beautiful of Mr Adam's designs, has been executed in a substantial manner, in about 16 years, at the expence of near 40,000l, and is one of the principal ornaments of the city. A serjeant's guard is placed here from the castle, for the further protection of the records. It is intended to place a statue of his present majesty in the front of the building, with the lion and unicorn above the centinels boxes. The lord register has the direction of the whole, and the principal clerks of session are his deputies. These have a great number of clerks under them for carrying on the business of the court of session. The lord register is a minister of state in this country. He formerly collected the votes of the parliament of Scotland, and still collects those of the peers at the election of 16 to represent them in parliament.

27. On the east side of St Andrew's square stands the General Excise Office, built by the late Sir Lawrence Dundas for his own residence, but sold by his son for the above purpose. It is a very handsome building, with a pediment in front ornamented with the king's arms, and supported by four Corinthian pilasters; and, in conjunction with the two corner houses, has a fine effect.

28. St Andrew's Church stands on the north side of George's street. It is of an oval form; and has a very neat spire of 186 feet in height, with a chime of eight bells, the first and only one of the kind in Scotland. It has also a handsome portico in front.

29. Opposite to St Andrew's church is the Physicians Hall, designed for the meetings of the faculty, and which has a portico resembling that of the church.

30. Farther to the westward, on the south side, stand the Assembly Rooms, which though a heavy looking building on the outside, are nevertheless extremely elegant and commodious within. The largest is 120 feet long and 40 broad, being exceeded in its dimensions by none in the island, the large one at Bath excepted. Weekly assemblies are held here for dancing, and card-playing, under the direction of a master of ceremonies; admission tickets five shillings each.

There are three Banking Companies in Edinburgh established by statute, or by royal charters. These are the Bank of Scotland, commonly called the Old Bank, the Royal Bank of Scotland, and the British Linen Company.

31. The Bank of Scotland, commonly called the Old Bank, was erected by act of parliament, A. D. 1695. By the statute of erection, the company was empowered to raise a joint stock of 1,200,000l. Scots, or 100,000l. sterling, for the purpose of carrying on a public bank. The smallest share which any person could hold in the bank was declared to be 100l. Scots; and the largest sum for which any one was allowed to subscribe was 20,000l. of the same money. Eight thousand are declared to be the qualification necessary to entitle any one to be elected governor; 600l. deputy-governor; and 300l. for each director. The management of the affairs of the company was vested in a governor, deputy-governor, and twenty-four directors; and in choosing these managers, each proprietor was declared to have a vote for every 100l. of stock held by him.

The office of this company has hitherto been held in a house down a narrow lane at the south side of that part of the High street called the Lawn-market; but, at a great expense, they have erected for their accommodation a building which will speedily be ready to be occupied, and which is situated to the northward of the High street, in full view of Prince's street. This is at once a magnificent and beautiful fabric. The back of the building is towards Prince's street; and here, while erecting, it had the disadvantage, from its vast height, of having somewhat the aspect of a tower. This effect, however, is now removed by restoring the earth for the purpose of covering up the lower part of it, and by a wall of considerable height in the nature of a curtain, which has been added to augment its apparent breadth. It forms, upon the whole, a beautiful and most superb fabric. As a work of magnitude, it is seen to most advantage from the mound of earth which connects the Old and the New Town, at that part of the mound which is in the direction of the north-west angle of the building. Here the eye is filled by the full view of two sides of the fabric, and by a display of its great height. The result of which is, that as a magnificent and stupendous structure, it seems to have no rival in this country.

"This banking company has established branches in every considerable town in Scotland, excepting Glasgow, which, in consequence of an amicable adjustment to avoid rivalryship, is left to the Royal Bank. By agreement, the latter has a branch in Glasgow, and no branch in any other town in Scotland." 33. "The Royal Bank was established in the following manner: By the articles of union, Scotland was declared to be liable to the same duties which were levied by way of customs or excise in England. As these duties had, in the latter of these nations, been appropriated for the discharge of debts contracted by England before the union, it was found reasonable to give Scotland an equivalent for this additional burthen. The sum, given by way of equivalent, was ordained to be paid for certain purposes, and to certain persons or bodies corporate, mentioned in the articles of union and in posterior statutes. The proprietors of these sums, to the extent of 248,550l. Sterling, were erected into a body corporate, under the name of the Equivalent Company; and the said sum of 248,550l. was declared to be the joint stock of the company. Upon application by this company, they obtained a royal charter, empowering such of them as inclined to subscribe their shares in the joint stock for that purpose, to carry on the business of banking. By this charter the subscribers to this banking business were, in A.D. 1727, erected into a body corporate, to be called, "The Royal Bank of Scotland." They were vested with the requisite powers, and the management of the company's affairs declared to be in a governor, deputy governor, nine ordinary and nine extraordinary directors. The qualifications of these managers were declared to be, that of the governor to hold stock to the extent of 2000l.; of the deputy governor, of 1500l.; of the ordinary directors, of 1000l.; and of the extraordinary directors, of 500l. The sum originally subscribed was 111,000l.; but by a charter passed in favour of the Royal Bank, A.D. 1738, explaining the privileges formerly bestowed upon them, and enabling them to increase their capital, they were empowered to raise their stock to a sum not exceeding in whole, when joined to their original funds, 150,000l. By the charter of erection of this company, a share of 300l. entitles a proprietor to one vote, one of 600l. to two, of 1200l. to three, and of 2000l. to four; and no proprietor can have more than four votes.

34. "The British Linen Company, with a capital of 100,000l. was incorporated by royal charter in 1746, with a view to encourage the manufacture of linen in Scotland. By the constitution of this company, its affairs are declared to be under the management of a governor, deputy governor, and five directors. It is declared a necessary qualification in the governor to be possessed of a share in the company's stock to the amount of 1000l.; of the deputy governor, 500l.; and of each director, of 300l. A share of 200l. entitles a proprietor to vote in the choice of these managers, of 500l. to two votes, and of 1000l. to four votes; but it is declared that no proprietor shall possess more than four votes.

"This company carries on the business of banking, and issues promissory notes like the two former companies; but the banking business is carried on separately from the linen trade. The Linen Hall remains in the Canongate; but the apartments of the bank are removed to a lane on the south side of the High street, above what was called the Nether-bow port.

"Promissory notes, payable on demand, have also been long issued in Edinburgh by a private banking house, that of Sir William Forbes, Sir James Hunter, and Company; and their notes have possessed a most extensive circulation.

"Besides these there are several private banking houses of great reputation in Edinburgh, which do not issue promissory notes for small sums payable on demand, but which carry on the other branches of the banking trade, by transmitting money, discounting bills, and accommodating individuals with cash accounts."

It now remains only to speak something of the religious and civil establishments of this metropolis. The highest of the former is the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, who meet here annually in the month of May, in an aisle of the church of St Giles fitted up on purpose for them. The throne is filled by a commissioner from his majesty, but he neither debates nor votes. He calls them together, and dissolves them at the appointed time in the name of the king; but they call and dissolve themselves in the name of the Lord Jesus Christ. This assembly consists of 350 members chosen out of the various presbyteries throughout the kingdom; and the debates are often very interesting and eloquent. This is the supreme ecclesiastical court in Scotland, to which appeals lie from the inferior ones.

The ecclesiastical court next in dignity to the assembly is the Synod of Lothian and Tweeddale, who meet in the same place in April and November; and next to them is the Presbytery of Edinburgh. These meet on the last Wednesday of every month, and are trustees on the fund for ministers widows. They have a hall in Scott's close, where there is a good picture of Dr Webster by Martin, which was put up at the expense of the trustees, out of gratitude for the trouble he took in planning and fully establishing the fund.

The Society for propagating Christian Knowledge in the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, was established a body corporate by Queen Anne in the year 1709, for the purpose of erecting schools to instruct poor children in the principles of Christianity, as well as in reading and writing. The society have a hall in Warriston's close where their business is transacted. From time to time they have received large contributions, which have always been very properly applied; and for much the same purpose his majesty gives 1000l. annually to the general assembly of the church of Scotland, which is employed by a committee of their number for instructing the poor Highlanders in the principles of the Christian religion.

The Erse church at Edinburgh was built about 30 years ago by subscriptions for the same laudable purpose. Great numbers of people resort to the metropolis from the Highlands, who understand no other language but their own, and consequently have no opportunity of instruction without it; and a most remarkable proof of the benefit they have received from it is, that though the church is capable of holding 1000 people, yet it is not large enough for those who apply for seats. The minister has 100l. per annum arising from the seat rents, and holds communion with the church of Scotland. The establishment was promoted by William Dickson dyer in Edinburgh.

With regard to the political constitution of Edinburgh, the town council have the direction of all public institutions. lic affairs. The ordinary council consists only of 25 persons; but the council ordinary and extraordinary, of 33. The whole is composed of merchants and tradesmen, whose respective powers and interests are so interwoven, that a balance is preserved between the two bodies. The members of the town council are partly elected by the members of the 14 incorporations, and they partly choose their own successors. The election is made in the following manner: First, a list or leet of fix persons is made out by each incorporation; from which number, the deacon belonging to the incorporation must be chosen. These lists are then laid before the ordinary council of 25, who "shorten the leets," by expunging one half of the names from each; and from the three remaining ones the deacon is to be chosen. When this election is over, the new deacons are presented to the ordinary council, who choose fix of them to be members of their body, and the fix deacons of last year then walk off. The council of 25 next proceed to the election of three merchant and two trades counsellors. The members of council, who now amount to 33 in number, then make out leets, from which the lord provost, dean of guild, treasurer, and bailies, must be chosen. The candidates for each of these offices are three in number; and the election is made by the 30 members of council already mentioned, joined to the eight extraordinary council deacons.

The lord provost of Edinburgh, who is styled right honourable, is high sheriff, coroner, and admiral, within the city and liberties, and the town, harbour, and road of Leith. He has also a jurisdiction in matters of life and death. He is preses of the convention of royal boroughs, colonel of the trained bands, commander of the city guard and of Edinburgh jail. In the city he has the precedence of all the great officers of state and of the nobility; walking on the right hand of the king or of his majesty's commissioner; and has the privilege of having a sword and mace carried before him. Under him are four magistrates called bailies, whose office is much the same with that of aldermen in London. There is also a dean of guild, who has the charge of the public buildings, and without whose warrant no house nor building can be erected within the city. He has a council to consult with, a nominal treasurer, who formerly had the keeping of the town's money, which is now given to the chamberlain. These seven are elected annually; who with the seven of the former year, three merchants and two trades counsellors, and 14 deacons or preses of incorporated trades, making in all 33, form the council of the city, and have the sole management and disposal of the city revenues; by which means they have the disposal of places to the amount of 20,000l. annually. Formerly the provost was also an officer in the Scots parliament. The magistrates are sheriffs-depute and justices of the peace; and the town council are also patrons for all the churches in Edinburgh, patrons of the university, and electors of the city's representative in parliament. They have besides a very ample jurisdiction both civil and criminal. They are superiors of the Canongate, Portsburgh, and Leith; and appoint over these certain of their own number, who are called baron bailies: but the person who presides over Leith has the title of admiral because he hath there a jurisdiction over maritime affairs. The baron bailies appoint one or two of the inhabitants of their respective districts to be their substitutes, and these are called resident bailies. They hold courts in absence of the baron bailies, for petty offences and discussing civil causes of little moment.

No city in the world affords greater security to the inhabitants in their persons and properties than Edinburgh. Robberies are here very rare, and street murder hardly known in the memory of man; so that a person may walk the streets at any hour of the night in perfect security. This is in a great measure owing to the town guard. This institution originated from the town guard into which the citizens were thrown after the battle at Flodden. At that time, the town council commanded the inhabitants to assemble in defence of the city, and every fourth man to be on duty each night. This introduced a kind of personal duty for the defence of the town, called watching and warding; by which the trading part of the inhabitants were obliged in person to watch alternately, in order to prevent or suppress occasional disturbances. This, however, becoming in time extremely inconvenient, the town council, in 1648, appointed a body of 60 men to be raised; the captain of which was to have a monthly pay of 11l. 2s. 3d. two lieutenants of 2l. each, two serjeants of 1l. 5s. and the private men of 15s. each. No regular fund was established for defraying this expense: the consequence of which was, that the old method of watching and warding was resumed: but the people on whom this service devolved were now become so relaxed in their discipline, that the magistrates were threatened with having the king's troops quartered in the city if they did not appoint a sufficient guard. On this 40 men were raised in 1679, and in 1682 the number was increased to 108. After the Revolution, the town council complained of the guard as a grievance, and requested parliament that it might be removed. Their request was immediately granted, and the old method of watching and warding was renewed. This, however, was now so intolerable, that the very next year they applied to parliament for leave to raise 126 men for the defence of the city, and to tax the citizens for their payment. This being granted, the corps was raised which still continues under the name of the town guard. At present the establishment consists of three officers and about 90 men, who mount guard by turns. The officers have a lieutenant's pay; the serjeants, corporals, drummers, and common soldiers, the same with those of the army. Their arms are the same with those of the king's forces: but when called upon to quell mobs, they use Lochaber axes, a part of the ancient Scottish armour now in use only among themselves.

The militia or trained band of the city consist of Militia of 16 companies of 100 men each. They were in use to trained turn out every king's birth day; but only the officers now remain, who are chosen annually. They consist of 16 captains and as many lieutenants and ensigns; the provost, as has already been mentioned, being the colonel.

The town guard are paid chiefly by a tax on the trading people; these being the only persons formerly subject to watching and warding. This tax, how- burgh, ever, amounts only to 1250l. and as the expence of the guard amounts to 1400l. the magistrates are obliged to defray the additional charge by other means.

But in the year 1805, in consequence of a new system of police being established, the city guard was reduced to one lieutenant, two serjeants, two corporals, two drummers, and thirty men, the lord provost for the time being to be captain, without pay, and the company to be armed and clothed at the expence of the city, but their pay to be defrayed out of the general fund raised under the new police act; and the duty of this company is to attend upon his majesty's commissioner to the general assembly of the church of Scotland, the magistrates and town council, the supreme courts of justice, and to act in general for the support of the new system of police.

The system of police above alluded to, was established in 1805 by act of parliament, under the authority of which the city and suburbs are divided into six districts or wards for the more convenient execution of the purposes to which the act extends. The regulations included under this system of police relate to cleaning and lighting the streets and passages in the city and suburbs, apprehending and punishing vagrants and disorderly persons, suppressing common begging, preventing nuisances and obstructions, and for other purposes connected with the preservation of peace and good order. The management of the whole affairs under this system of police is entrusted to the general and resident commissioners. The general commissioners appointed by the act, are, the lord provost and magistrates of the city of Edinburgh, with the lord president of the court of session, the lord justice clerk, the lord chief baron of the court of exchequer, the law officers of the crown, and several other public characters, in conjunction with the whole resident commissioners in the different wards. There are to be seven resident commissioners in each ward, the two highest in the list to go out, and two others to be elected in their stead annually; the commissioners to be occupiers of houses valued at twenty pounds sterling of free rent yearly, excepting in two wards, where occupying a house of twelve pounds rent is a sufficient qualification. In each ward there are to be elected by the resident commissioners, with the approbation of the general commissioners, an inspector, and such a number of officers of police and watchmen as may be necessary, the officers of police and watchmen upon duty having the authority and possessing the powers given by the law of Scotland to the office of constable.

The general commissioners have the power of choosing a superintendent or master of police for the whole city and suburbs included in the act, and to appoint a clerk who shall do the duty of clerk to the general meetings, as well as to the court of police to be held by the superintendent. The general commissioners also are authorized to fix the number of officers and watchmen to be employed in the different wards. The superintendent of police having been appointed by the commissioners, is to receive from the sheriff depute of the county of Edinburgh the authority of a sheriff substitute, as well as a commission of sheriff depute within the city and liberties from the lord provost who is principal sheriff within these bounds, that the superintendent acting as master or judge of police may have the full powers of a magistrate in the execution of his duty. Edinburgh By the powers with which the superintendent is invested, he may commit offenders to the tolbooth or to bridewell for a period not exceeding 60 days, and impose fines for offences not exceeding 40 shillings sterling, and give judgment in damages for any sum not exceeding three pounds sterling with the expenses in either case. From the sentences of the superintendent there is no appeal to the sheriff depute of the county, or to the lord provost as sheriff principal within the city. The superintendent of police is also the billet-matter within his bounds, and the inspectors of wards are billet-masters within their several wards. The inspectors also have the powers of procurator fiscals with respect to all prosecutions for offences committed within their bounds.

The expenses necessary to carry the above act into execution, are to be defrayed from a fund raised by assessment on the inhabitants of three per cent. on the free rent of houses, shops or warehouses, and for the expenses of clothing and alimenting the persons committed to bridewell a farther assessment not exceeding \( \frac{1}{4} \) per cent. of the free rent of such houses, &c. For the purpose of ascertaining rents, surveyors are appointed; and if the rent fixed by them should be over-rated, an appeal may be made to a committee of the general commissioners specially appointed.

The office of the superintendent of police is in the Lawnmarket. The operation of the act has only continued for a few months (September 1805) and although some complaints have been made of its rigorous execution, arising probably from such unavoidable and unforeseen circumstances as frequently occur in the establishment of a new system, yet there is every reason to hope, that it will prove highly beneficial for the preservation of peace and good order in the city and suburbs over which it extends.

The number of inhabitants in the city of Edinburgh is somewhat uncertain, and has been very variously calculated. By a survey made in the year 1775, it appears that the number of families in the city, Canongate, and other suburbs, and the town of Leith, amounted to 13,806. The difficulty therefore is to fix the number of persons in a family. Dr Price fixes this number at 4\( \frac{1}{2} \); Mr Maitland, at 5\( \frac{1}{2} \); and Mr Arnot, at 6; so that, according to this last gentleman, the whole number of inhabitants is 82,836; to which he thinks 1400 more may be added for those in the garrison, hospitals, &c.

The following table exhibits a comparative view of the population of the city of Edinburgh and suburbs taken in different years. The last enumeration made in 1801 by act of parliament is supposed to be considerably defective in the real amount of the inhabitants, as an alarm was indutifully spread that it was done with a view to the imposition of new taxes. This, it appeared, induced many to conceal the names and number of the individuals in their families.

<table> <tr> <th>Year</th> <th>Inhabitants</th> </tr> <tr> <td>1678</td> <td>35,500</td> </tr> <tr> <td>1722</td> <td>49,420</td> </tr> <tr> <td>1755</td> <td>57,193</td> </tr> <tr> <td>1775</td> <td>70,430</td> </tr> <tr> <td>1791</td> <td>84,886</td> </tr> <tr> <td>1801</td> <td>82,563</td> </tr> </table> There are in Edinburgh 14 incorporations, capable of choosing their own deacons, viz. The royal college of surgeons; the corporations of goldsmiths, skinners, furriers, hammermen, wrights and masons, taylors, bakers, butchers, shoemakers, weavers, waukers, bonnet-makers, and merchant company.

The markets of Edinburgh are plentifully supplied with all sorts of provisions. Fresh butcher meat, as well as fowl and fish, if the weather permit, may be had every day; and no city can be better supplied with garden stuffs. The Edinburgh strawberries particularly are remarkably large and fine. A striking instance of the plenty of provisions with which Edinburgh is supplied was observed in the year 1779, when several large fleets, all of them in want of necessaries, arrived in the Forth, to the amount of about 500 sail, and having on board at least 20,000 men; yet the increased consumption of provisions, which certainly ensued upon the arrival of so many strangers, made not the least increase in the rate of the markets, inmouch that several victualling ships sent down by the navy board returned without opening their hatches. The city mills are let to the corporation of bakers in Edinburgh; and the bread made in the city is remarkable for its goodness.

Edinburgh is supplied with water brought for some miles in pipes, and lodged in two reservoirs, from whence it is distributed through the city both to public wells and private families. A revenue accrues to the town from the latter, which must undoubtedly increase in proportion as the city extends in magnitude.

There are but few merchants in Edinburgh, most of them residing at the port of Leith; so that the support of the city depends on the consumption of the necessaries as well as the superfluities of life. There are five different sorts of people on whom the shopkeepers, publicans, and different trades depend: 1. The people of the law, who are a very respectable body in the city. 2. The number of young people of both sexes who come to town for their education, many of the parents of whom come along with them. 3. The country gentlemen, gentlemen of the army and navy, and people who have made their fortunes abroad, &c. all of whom come to attend the public diversions, or to spend their time in such a manner as is most agreeable to them. 4. The vast concourse of travellers from all parts. 5. Most of the money drawn for the rents of country gentlemen is circulated among the bankers or other agents.

At Edinburgh there are excellent manufactures of linen and cambrics; there are also manufactures of paper in the neighbourhood, and printing is carried on very extensively. But for some time the capital branch about Edinburgh has been building: which has gone on, and still continues to do so, with such rapidity, that the city has been increased exceedingly in its extent; and it is not uncommon to see a house built in a few months, and even inhabited before the roof is quite finished.