or Esneh, a considerable sea-port town of Upper Egypt. It is governed by an Arabian prince, and by a cache, dependant on the bey of Girze. The Mahometans have several mosques here, and the Coptis a church served by two priests. "Esne (says Abulfeda), remarkable for its public baths and its commerce, is built on the westward of the Nile, between Assouan and Cous, but nearer to this latter. It acknowledges, adds the geographer of Nubia, the Coptis for founders. Its well cultivated territory abounds in grain and palm-trees. It is surrounded by gardens filled with fruit-trees. One admires here several ancient monuments constructed by the Coptis, and superb ruins." This description answers to Esne in our time, which is situated on the edge of a rich country, and shaded by groves of orange trees loaded with fruits and flowers. This town, formerly called Latopolis, revered Minerva and the fish Latus (Strabo). It contains within its boundary an antique temple; thick walls inclose it on three sides. Six large fluted columns, crowned by a capital ornamented with the palm leaf, form the façade of it; 18 others support the roof, which is composed of large squares of marble; the building is surrounded by a frieze, and innumerable hieroglyphics cover its exterior aspects.

A little to the south of the town are seen the ruins of a monastery founded by St Helena, and near it the burying-place of the martyrs, adorned with tombs crowned by cupolas, supported by arcades. The inhabitants of Esne having revolted against the persecution of Diocletian, that emperor destroyed this town and put them to the sword. This place, consecrated by religion, is become a celebrated pilgrimage among the Coptis. They repair thither from the most distant provinces of the kingdom. In the chain of mountains which stretches to the eastward of the Nile, and nearly opposite Esne, are quarries of a soft stone, called Baram. It is made use of for kitchen utensils. It hardens in the fire, and forms excellent kettles and pans, which give no bad taste to the viands. This stone is probably the lapis ollaris, or pot-stone.

"Esne (says Denon*) is the ancient Latopolis. Some remains are still visible of its port or quay on the bank of the Nile, which has been often repaired; but, notwithstanding all that has been done for it, still remains in a very miserable condition. This town also contains the portico of a temple, which appears to me to be the most perfect monument of ancient architecture. It is situated near the bazar in the great square, and would make an incomparable ornament to this spot, if the inhabitants had any idea of its merit; but instead of this they have defaced it by the most miserable ruined hovels, and have devoted it to the vilest purposes. The portico is very well preserved, and possesses a great richness of sculpture: it is composed of eighteen columns with broad capitals; these columns are noble and elegant, though they now appear in the most disadvantageous light: the rubbish should be cleared to find if any part of the cella remains.

"The hieroglyphics in relief, with which it is covered within and without, are executed with great care; they contain, among other subjects, a zodiac, and large figures of men with crocodiles heads: the capitals, though all different, have a very fine effect; and as an additional proof that the Egyptians borrowed nothing from other people, we may remark, that they have taken all the ornaments, of which these capitals are composed, from the productions of their own country, such as the lotus, the palm-tree, the vine, the ruth, &c., &c."